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Hiotographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  histciques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


Th«  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


n 


n 


n 


n 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6c  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


D 
D 
D 

0 
D 
0 


D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Qualitd  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 

slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 

ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 

Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 

ot  scurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 

cic,  ont  6X6  filmdes  6  nouveau  de  fapon  6 

obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


aire 

;  details 
ues  du 
t  modifier 
ger  une 
}  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grflce  d  la 
g^nirositi  de: 

La  bibliothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettnti  de  l'exemplaire  film^,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


V 
u6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  p  ^nted  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim^e  sont  fiim^s  en  commengant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commengant  par  la 
pramidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparaTtra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  »►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


aire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmis  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
6%  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  h  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m6thode. 


by  errata 
ned  to 

leiit 

une  pelure, 

fagon  A 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

/v.  /. 


JJfjij/ri'ii  jr  .V,  .Siji'mnHr. 


l\,h.hyM.C.('anytCl.lni  W^i. 


JSnorfv  )  hv  J.  Hill. 


WAW<D)-jC.«iyy  ^vJSfjE)  lanus    c®w, 


/■/.  /. 


In-  J.  mi. 


\i 


I 


MAJOR  LONG'S 


SECOND  EXPEDITION. 


( 


7 


NARRATIVE 


UF 


AN  ISZFEDITION 

TO    THB 

SOURCE  OF  ST,  pp:ter*s  river, 

LAKE  WINNEPEEK,  LAKE  OF  THE  WOODS, 

PERFORMED  :\  THE  YE^R  182?, 

BT  ORDER  OF  | 

THE  HON.  J.  C.  CALHOUN,  SECREiARY  OF  WAR, 

rilDER   THE   COMMAND   OV 

STEPHEN  H.  LONG,  Major  U.  S.  T.  E. 


COMPILED    -ROM    THE    NOTES    OF    MAJOR    LONO,    MESSRS.    SAY, 
KEATING,   AND    COLHOUN, 

BT 

WILLIAM  H.  KEATING,  A.  M.  &c. 

PROFESSOR  OF  MIITBRAI.OOT  AND  CHEMISTRT  AS  AFFLIES    TO   THV   ARTS,   IST 

THE  VHlVKHSrTT  OF  PEKKSTLTATTIA  ;  GEOIOOIST  AND 

HlgTORIOORAFHER  TO  THE  EXPEDITION. 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 
VOL.  L 


PHILADELPHIA :  .. 

H.  C.  CAREY  &  I.  LEA— CHESNUT  STREET, 

1824. 


i( 


ir 


li 


EASTERN  DISTRICT  OF  PENNSYLVANIA,  to  wit: 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  twenty-ninth  day  of  Novem- 
ber, in  the  forty-ninth  year  of  the  independence  of  the  United  States 
of  America,  A.  D.  1824,  H.  C.  Carkt  &  I.  Lka  of  the  said  district,  have 
deposited  in  this  office  the  title  of  abooi:,  the  r'ght  whereof  they  claim 
as  proprietors,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 

"  Narrative  of  an  Expedition  to  the  Source  of  St.  Peter's  River,  Lake 
"  Winnepeek,  Lake  of  the  Woods,  &c.  &c.  performed  in  the  year  1823, 
*'  by  order  of  the  Hon.  J.  C.  Calhoun,  Secretary  of  War,  under  the  com- 
**  mand  of  Stephen  H.  Long,  Major  U,  S.  T.  E.  Compiled  from  the 
•'  notes  of  Major  Long,  Messrs.  Say,  Keating,  and  Colhoun,  by  Wil- 
"liam  H.  Keatmg,  A.  M.  &c.  Professor  of  Mineralogy  and  Chemistry 
"  as  applied  to  the  Arts,  in  the  University  of  Pennsylvania ;  Geologist 
"  and  Historiographer  to  the  Expedition.     In  two  volumes — Vol.  1," 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled 
"  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of 
maps,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies, 
during  the  t'mes  therein  mentioned." — And  also  to  the  act,  entitled, 
"An  act  supplementary  to  an  act,  entitled,  "An  act  for  the  encourage- 
ment of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books, 
to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies  during  the  times  therein 
mentioned,"  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  Arts  of  desigii- 
ing,  engraving,  and  etching  historical  and  other  prints." 

D.  CALDWELL, 
Clerk  of  the  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


SKKHUETT — LOCUST  8THEBT, 
PHILADELPHIA. 


TO 


HIS  EXCELLENCY 


d 


PRESIDENT  OF  THE  UNITED  SI^ATES 


OP 


AMERICA, 


THIS  WORK, 


CONTAINING  THE  RESULT  OF  OBSERVATIONB 


MADE  DURING  AN  EXPEDITION 


PERFORMED   UNDER    HIS    ADMINISTRATION, 


IS 


VEUY  RESPECTFULLY  INSCRIBED 


BT 


THE  AUTHORS. 


I 

lit 


CORRECTIONS  TO  V01„  I. 

Page  19,HncH,  for  derangement,  read  rfj«<«rAanc«r. 

'is,  18,  for  compensates  for  a,  read  compcntates  tfie. 

46,  15,  for  laid,  read  lat/. 

55,  4,  for  the  Expedition,  read  rve. 

58,  3d  and  6th  from  the  bottom,  for  conjugate,  read  trattDv^rBe. 

58,  7th  do.  do.  for  transvei-se,  read  conjugate. 

63,  9th  from  the  top,  for  if  it  be  not,  read  if  it  should  not  have  been. 

66,  12,  for  object,  read  objects. 

67,  15,  for  itself,  read  t/ie'mselves. 
74,         8,  erase /or 

77,  17,  for  beach,  read  beech. 

85,         2  from  bottom,  for  with,  read  to. 

92,  last  line,  for  seems,  read  seem. 

96,  15,  for  counsels,  read  councils. 

97,  18,  for  be,  read  is. 

99,  27,  for  decrepid,  read  decrepit. 

99,  last  line,  iov  as  one  of,  read  among; 
100  and  105,  line  11,  for  endoved,  read  endued. 

115,  9,  for  are,  road  Iff. 

115,  22,  for  sowed,  read  setved. 

117,  14,  for  endowed,  read  endued. 

124,  15,  for  be,  read  iff. 

140,  19,  for  dared,  read  dui'st. 

144,  25,  for  lead,  read  led. 

323,  25,  for  Iroquois,  read  Chippewas. 

CORRECTIONS  TO  VOL.  11. 

Page    8, line  17,  for  minister,  read  ministered. 
8,        3  from  bottom,  for  of,  read  on, 

27,  19,  for  immense,  read  indefinite. 

29,        6,  for  Superior,  read  Winnepeek, 

36,  28,  for  valleys,  read  vaJUes. 

114,  16,  for  beach,  read  beech. 

167,  13,  for  written,  read  composed. 
176,         8,  for  meal,  read  meat. 
180,        9,  for  Desmarais,  read  Desmarest. 
305,        8,  for  buifalo,  read  Buffalo. 

210,  27,  for  west,  read  north-tvest. 

213,  13,  for  Small  Fox  river,  read  Small  Pox  river. 

215,  17,  for  above,  read  about 

219,  29,  for  banks,  read  bars. 

226,  13,  after  narrative,  read  and  the  accompanying  Map. 

JVofe.— Owing  to  the  absence  of  Major  Long,  during  the  time  of  printing 
his  report,  Vol.  11.  Chap.  V.  the  following  discrepancies,  between  the  spell- 
ing of  words  in  that  paper,  and  the  accompanying  map,  have  occurred,  and 
are  to  be  corrected  as  follows,  viz.  for  Milwacke,  Manitowacke,  Pektanon, 
Little  Pektanon,  and  Kakabikka,  read  MJelwakee,  JUanitowakee,  Peektano, 
Peektanos,  and  Kakabeka. 


PREFACE. 


IN  offering  this  work  to  the  public,  the  compiler  regrets 
that  it  has  been  delayed  longer  than  was  originally  intend- 
ed; the  difficulties  which  he  has  encountered  in  the  per- 
formance of  a  task  for  which  he  was  quite  unprepared,  af- 
ford him  his  only  apology.  Inexperienced  in  the  art  of 
writing  for  the  public,  it  is  probable  that  he  has  fallen  into 
many  errors  which,  with  more  time,  he  might  have  avoid- 
ed ;  but  works  of  the  nature  of  this  admit  of  but  little  de- 
lay. Narrativ  es  of  voyages  of  discoveries  lose  much  of  their 
interest,  if  the  publication  be  long  deferred. 

The  principal  object  which  the  compiler  had  in  view, 
was  to  unite  the  documents  confided  to  him,  so  as  to  pre- 
sent a  faithful  description  of  the  country  over  which  the 
party  travelled,  and  of  the  few  adventures  which  inter- 
rupted the  monotony  of  a  journey  through  a  wilderness. 

It  may  be  well  to  state  that  the  historical  part  of  the 
narrative,  together  with  the  topographical,  and  much  of 
the  descriptive  matter,  has  been  drawn  from  Major  Long's 
notes.  Mr.  Colhoun's  manuscripts,  besides  contributing  to 
the  same  departments,  and  yielding  the  astronomical  ob- 
servations, have  been  very  valuable  in  furnishing  the 
greater  part  of  the  references  to  older  writers.  The  com- 
parisons between  the  observations  made  by  our  party  and 
the  assertions  of  former  travellers,  are  almost  entirely  due 
to  that  gentleman.  From  Mr.  Say's  notes,  all  that  relates  to 
the  zoology  and  botany  of  the  country  traversed  has  been  ob- 
tained, as  well  as  much  of  the  matter  relating  to  the  Indians. 
This  last  department  has  been  completed  from  the  compiler's 
own  notes,  which  have  likewise  furnished  the  geological  ob- 


Vlll 


PKEFACE, 


servations.  Besides  which,  the  journals  kept  by  each  of 
the  gentlemen,  have  frequently  completed  the  remarks 
made  by  some  other  member  of  the  party.  It  has  been 
deemed  unnecessary  to  state  in  all  cases  by  whom  the  ob- 
servations were  made  or  recorded.  This  ha  ,  however, 
been  done,  whenever  the  facts  appeared  sufficiently  inte- 
resting to  require  that  the  names  of  the  observers  should 
be  annexed  to  them. 

As  Major  Long's  report  to  the  war  department  presents 
a  concise  summary  of  the  general  features  of  the  country 
visited  by  the  party,  it  has  been  thought  adviseable  to  in- 
troduce it  as  a  conclusion  to  the  narrative.  Having  been 
ordered  to  the  OWo  to  make  an  experiment  to  improve  its 
navigation  according  to  the  provisions  of  a  late  act  of  Con- 
gress, Major  Long  was  absent  from  Philadelphia  during 
the  preparation  of  that  part  of  the  manuscript  which  follows 
the  three  first  chapters  of  volume  first ;  this  may  account 
for  some  of  the  inaccuracies  which  the  work  will  be  found 
to  contain;  it  is  presumed  that  by  his  presence  they  would 
have  been  avoided. 

The  compiler  has  found  it  impossible  in  the  description 
of  the  scenery  of  the  Mississippi,  &c.  to  avoid  the  intro- 
duction of  several  words,  which,  although  they  are  not 
sanctioned  by  the  dictionaries,  seem  to  be  characteristic, 
and  essential  to  such  descriptions;  of  thip  iiature  are  the 
words  bluflf,  prairie,  &c.  The  term  creek,  being  used  in 
ditferent  acceptations  in  England  and  America,  has  been 
avoided  in  all  cases,  though  with  some  inconvenience.  The 
word  run  will,  it  is  believed,  be  found  but  once  in  the 
body  of  the  work.  Lest  any  false  impression  should  be 
drawn  from  the  introduction  of  the  term  estuary,  it  may 
be  proper  to  state,  that  it  has  been  inadvertently  used  in 
several  cases,  to  designate  the  outlets  of  streams  where  the 
tides  do  not  reciprocate. 


PREFACE. 


iX 


In  compiling  from  notes  written  by  many  persons  under 
the  disadvantages  of  fatigues,  hardships,  and  privations,  it 
is  not  easy,  however  it  may  be  desirable,  to  avoid  the  use 
of  all  objectionable  terms;  for  these  and  other  inaccuracies 
which  the  work  may  contain  d\e  compiler  must  plead  in 
excuse  the  difficulties  to  which  he  has  previously  alluded. 

The  greater  part  of  the  appendix  will  be  found  to  have 
been  prepared  by  Mr.  Say.  The  loss  which  he  experienc- 
ed of  the  skins  of  many  birds,  quadrupeds,  and  fish,  which 
he  had  collected,  has  prevented  him  from  describing  seve- 
ral new  animals.  It  is  believed  that,  if  none  of  the  shells 
collected  had  been  lost,  the  amount  of  new  species  des- 
cribed would  have  been  much  greater.  The  plants  p'  eserv- 
ed  by  Mr.  Say,  were  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  Rev.  Lewis 
B.  de  Schweinitz,  who  kindly  undertook  to  describe  them; 
the  result  of  his  valuable  observations  will  be  found  in  the 
appendix.  With  a  view  to  give  an  idea  of  the  climate  of 
the  country  described,  as  well  as  to  compare  it  with  other 
places  whose  climate  has  been  ascertained  by  older  obser- 
vations, the  interesting  tables  prepared  by  Dr.  Joseph  Lo- 
vell,  Surgeon  General  of  the  United  States'  Army,  have 
been  introduced,  with  his  general  observations  upon  the 
same.  They  are  compiled  from  the  records  kept  at  the 
various  military  posts.  The  climate  of  Philadelphia  has 
been  established  by  the  results  of  the  observations  made 
by  Mr.  Reuben  Haines,  at  his  residence  in  Germantown, 
six  miles  from  Philadelphia;  the  great  care  which  Mr. 
Haines  bestows  upon  his  observations  makes  them  a  fit 
term  of  comparison  for  all  others.  The  introduction  of 
these  tables  has  superseded  the  necessity  of  recording  the 
variations  of  temperature  observed  by  our  party;  they 
were  noted  principally  by  Mr.  Seymour. 

It  may  be  proper^  however,  to  state,  that,  valuable  as 

Vol.  I.  4 


PREFACE. 


lii  :| 

III  .1 


I  '  > 


are  the  results  contained  in  the  meteorological  tables,  they 
can  only  be  considered  as  approximations;  because  an  uni- 
form method  of  making  observations  has  not  yet  been 
adopted.  Those  who  are  conversant  with  thermometrical 
observations,  know  what  influence  the  situation  in  which 
the  instrument  is  exposed,  and  the  materials  of  which  it  is 
constructed,  exercise  upon  the  results  which  it  indicates — 
and  how  guarded  we  ought  to  be  in  adopting  comparisons 
made  with  different  instruments,  and  placed  in  different 
situations.  Of  the  influence  of  the  materials,  the  party  had 
an  opportunity  of  convincing  themselves,  by  placing  two 
of  Mr.  Keating's  thermometers  in  the  same  situation  with 
that  of  the  surgeon  at  Fort  St.  Anthony.  The  latter  in- 
strument consisted  of  a  glass  tube  attached  to  a  brass  plate, 
on  which  the  graduation  was  marked ;  one  of  Mr.  Kea- 
ting's  was  known  to  be  a  good  instrument ;  it  had  been  made 
in  Paris  and  had  its  division  on  a  slip  of  paper  enclosed  in  a 
glass  tube :  the  other  thermometer  was  a  small  pocket  one, 
made  by  Mr.  Fisher  of  Philadelphia,  and  was  provided 
with  an  ivory  scale.  The  usual  exposure  of  the  surgeon's 
thermometer  was  to  the  south-west.  The  two  others  were 
placed  close  to  his.  The  results  are  indicated  in  the  fol- 
lowing table. 

July  4,  at  noon,       -    -    .    - 

Do.        3  o'clock,  P.  M.    - 

Do.        8    do.        do. 
July  8,      4    do.        do. 

This  proved,  that  when  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the 
sun,  or  to  their  reflection  by  the  parade  ground,  the  ther- 
mometer with  the  brass  plate  was  uniformly  ten  degrees 
higher  than  that  made  entirely  of  glass,  though  at  other 
times  it  stood  at  the  same  elevation.  At  the  time  these 
observations  were  made,  the  surgeon  was  absent.   At  Fort 


Fisher's. 

French. 

Surgeon's 

91° 

89° 

99°  F. 

96 

96 

106 

78 

78 

78 

119 

118 

128 

? 


; 


PREFACE. 


XI 


St.  Anthony  the  thermometer  was  exposed  to  the  south- 
west; at  other  posts,  we  have  seen  it  facing  the  east; 
sometimes  the  instruments  were  protected  from,  at  other 
times  they  were  exposed  to,  the  rays  of  the  sun :  there 
can  be  no 'doubt  that  some  variations  must  arise  from  these 
causes;  and  we  think  it  therefore  desirable,  in  order  to 
give  the  greatest  value  to  the  observations  made  at  all  the 
garrisons  in  the  United  States,  that  the  surgeons  should  be 
provided,  at  the  public  expense,  with  instruments  of  uni- 
form and  approved  construction ;  and  that  the  observations 
should  be  made  under  circumstances  as  nearly  similar  as 
the  great  diversity  in  the  situations  of  their  posts  will  ad- 
mit. Notwithstanding  the  variations  produced  by  the 
causes  to  which  we  have  alluded,  we  consider  these  tables 
as  being  very  interesting,  inasmuch  as  they  afford  the  first 
comparative  results  upon  the  temperature  of  the  United 
States  in  general,  embracing  an  immense  extent  of  coun- 
try, and  including  great  diversities  of  climate. 

We  deem  it  but  fair  to  state  that  the  observations  which 
Messrs.  Say  and  Keating  made,  concerning  the  manners, 
&c.  of  the  Indian  tribes  which  they  met,  were  greatly  fa- 
cilitated by  the  valuable  notes  furnished  to  them  by  the 
American  Philosophical  Society,  and  which  were  chiefly 
prepared  by  Peter  S.  Duponceau,  Esquire,  one  of  the  Vice 
Presidents  of  the  Society,  Professor  Robert  Walsh,  jun.  one 
of  the  Secretaries,  and  by  Dr.  Samuel  Brown,'*  Professor  of 
the  Practice  of  Physic  itl'the  Transylvania  University. 


*The  undersigned  begs  leave  to  state,  that  Dr.  Brown's  name  was 
inadvertently  omitted  in  the  Preface  to  the  "  Account  of  an  Expedi- 
tion from  Pittsburgh  to  the  Rocky  Mountains."  The  gentlemen  of  that 
party  were  provided  with  the  same  notes  which  were  used  on  the  He- 
cond  expedition,  and  which  were  in  both  cases  found  very  valuable. 

T.  SAY. 


Xll 


FRE7AC£. 


II  M 


In  conclusion,  the  compiler  has  much  pleasure  in  ac- 
knowledging the  great  obligations  under  which  he  lies  to 
George  Ord,  Esquire,  one  of  the  Vice  Presidents  of  the 
Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  and  one  of  the  Secretaries 
of  the  American  Philosophical  Society,  for  his  'assistance 
in  the  preparation  of  this  work.  Mr.  Ord's  perusal  of  the 
greater  part  of  the  manuscript  previous  to  its  being  put  to 
press,  has  preserved  it  from  many  inaccuracies  which  it 
would  otherwise  have  contained. 

W.  H.  K. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  I. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Page. 

Departure  from  Philadelphia.  Geology  of  the  AUeghanies.  Cum- 
berland Road.    Wheeling        .....         9 

CHAPTER  n. 

Zanesville.     Salt  and  Iron  Works.     Columbus.    Piqua.    Indian 
Antiquities.    Ohio  Canals.    Fort  Wayne         -  -  -        34 

CHAPTER  III. 

Description  of  Fort  Wayne  and  its  vicinity.    Pur  trade.    Pota- 
watomis  -..----        79 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Carey  mission-house.    Lake  Michigan.    Chicago  -  •      139 

CHAPTER  V. 

Rock  river.  Menomones.  Geology  of  the  country  west  of  Lake 
Michigan.     Prairie  du  Chien.     Sauks  and  Foxes       -  -      172 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Prairie  du  Chien.  Indian  remains.  Division  of  tlie  party.  Missis- 
sippi. Dacota  villages.  Fort  St.  Anthony.  Falls.  River  St.  Peter  235 

CHAPTER  Vil. 

Geology  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Expedition  ascends  the  St. 
Peter.    Character  of  the  Country.    Arrival  at  Lake  Travers       302 

CHAPTER  Vin. 

Account  of  the  Dacotas  or  Sioux  Indians.  Their  divisions  into 
tribes.  Their  numbers,  language,  manners  and  customs.  Notice 
of  Wanotan,  principal  chief  of  the  Yanktoanan  tribe.  Descrip- 
tion of  the  Columbia  Fur  Company's  establishment  on  Lake 
Travers  .......      376 


!i 


l\  '.' 


:rf 


LIST  OF  PLATES. 


Map  of  the  Country  traversed  by  the  Expedition, 
riatc    1.  Wanotan  and  his  son,  to  face  the  title  page  of  Vol.  I. 

2.  Plan  of  Indian  fortifications  at  Piqua         -        -        Page  56 

3.  Heads  of  Metea,  Wennebea,  8ic.      ....        90 

4.  View  of  the  Maiden's  Rock  on  Lake  Pepin       -        •      284 

5.  Dat  ita  and  Chippewa  songs     .....       438 

6.  "View  of  Lake  Travers,  to  face  the  title  page  of  Vol.  IL 

7.  Killing  of  a  buffalo  near  Red  rivet      -  .        -        22 

8.  View  of  Indian  lodges,  &c.  at  Camp  Monroe    -        -        48 

9.  View  of  the  Slave  Falls  on  Winnepeek  river    -        -        99 

10.  View  of  the  Upper  Falls  of  Winnepeek  river  -      100 

11.  View  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  from  Cosse's  island        109 

12.  View  of  the  Falls  of  Kakabikka  on  the  Kamanatekwoya  138 

13.  View  of  the  north  shore  of  Luke  Superior        •       -      185 

14.  Shells,  &c -      254 

15.  Shells 264 


t  .;' 


NARRATIVE  OF  AN  EXPEDITION 


TO  THE 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  PETER'S  RIVER, 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  Philadelphia.  Geology  of  the  *^llegha^ 
nies.     Cumberland  Boad.     Wheeling. 

THE  success  which  attended  the  expedition  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  important  information  which 
it  imparted  c  ncerning  the  nature  of  the  valley  drained  by 
the  Missouri  and  its  tributaries,  of  which  nothing  was 
known  but  what  had  been  observed  by  Lewis  and  Clarke, 
induced  the  government  of  the  United  States  to  continue 
its  endeavours  to  explore  the  unknown  wilds  within  its 
limits.  The  first  object  which  appeared  to  it  deserving  of 
investigation  was  the  district  of  country  bounded  by  the 
Missouri,  the  Mississippi,  and  the  Northern  Boundary  of 
the  United  States. 

This  triangular  section  includes  about  three  hundred 
miles  of  longitude  and  seven  hundred  of  latitude.  Governor 
Cass  had,  on  his  late  expedition,  explored  the  southern 
shore  of  Lake  Superior  to  the  mouth  of  St.  Louis  river, 
and  the  water  communication  between  Fond  du  Lac  and 
the  Mississippi,  which  river  he  ascended  to  ihe  Upper 
Red  Cedar  or  Cassina  Lake,  and  then  descended  to  the 
nMUth  of  the  Wisconsan.  By  this  journey  much  light  was 

m^'  I.         3* 


'   1  ! 


<t 


I 


I) 


ii  1 1' 


:1' 


hi 


rt' 


10 


EXPEDITION   TO   THB 


thrown  upon  the  history  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  which 
was  prev  iously  known  only  through  the  fascinating,  hut 
imperfect,  and  in  many  instances,  fabulous  accounts  of  old 
travellers,  and  through  the  hasty  observations  of  the  Iftte 
General,  (then  Lieut.)  Pike,  an  officer  whose  zeal  made 
him  overlook  difficulties  which  would  have  arrested  a  less 
hardy  explorer,  but  who  unfortunately  was  not  provided 
with  the  means  of  making  accurate  observations. 

All  the  later  travellers  who  had  visited  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi concurred  in  mentioning  a  river,  discovered  at  the 
end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  known  by  the  name 
of  the  St.  Peter.  This  river,  which  discharges  itself  into 
the  Mississippi  at  a  short  distance  below  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony,  had  not  been  visited  by  any  traveller  but  Car- 
ver, whose  account  of  it,  published  about  the  year  1778, 
contains  many  circumstances  which  might  induce  us  to 
question  the  accuracy  of  his  report 

The  extent  of  tlie  fur  trade  carried  on  by  the  British  and 
American  trading  companies  in  that  part  of  the  country, 
•^he  report  of  the  easy  communication  between  the  head  of 
the  St.  Peter  and  that  of  the  Red  River,  whose  waters 
running  into  Lake  Winnepeek  finally  empty  themselves 
into  Hudson's  Bay,  and  the  various  contradictory  reports 
of  the  quality  of  the  soil  and  the  nature  of  the  country  on 
Red  River,  resulting  from  the  conflicting  interests  of  the 
two  rival  British  companies,  made  it  an  object  of  interest 
to  our  government,  to  obtain  correct  information  upon  the 
country  which  lies  on  the  St.  Peter  and  the  Red  River  to 
the  49th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  as  well  as  to  ascertain  the 
nature  of  the  country  along  our,  as  yet  unsurveyed,  northern 
boundary. 

Accordingly,  it  was  determined  in  the  spring  of  1823^ 
"  by  the  Executive,  that  an  expedition  be  immediately 


th 


Hi 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETER  S    RIVEB. 


11 


fitted  out  for  exploring  the  river  St.  Peter*s  and  the  coun- 
try situated  on  the  northern  boundary  of  the  United  States 
between  the  Red  River  of  Hudson's  Bay  and  Lake  Su- 
perior." 

The  command  of  the  expedition  was  intrusted  to  Major 
S.  H.  Long)  and  he  received  orders  from  the  War  Depart- 
ment, dated  April  25,  1823,  of  which  tlie  following  is  an 
extract : — 

"  The  route  of  the  expedition  will  be  as  follows : — com- 
mencing at  Philadelphia,  clience  proceeding  to  Wheeling 
in  Virginia,  thence  to  Chicago  via  Fort  Wayne,  thence  to 
Fort  Armstrong  or  Dubuque's  Lead  Mines,  thence  up  the 
Mississippi  to  Fort  St.  Anthony,  thence  to  the  source  of 
the  St.  Peter's  river,  thence  u  the  point  of  intersection  be- 
tween Red  River  and  the  forty-ninth  degree  of  north  lati- 
tude, thence  along  the  northern  boundary  of  the  United 
States  to  Lake  Superior,  and  thence  homeward  by  the 
Lakes. 

"  The  object  of  the  expedition  is  to  make  a  general  sur- 
vey of  the  country  on  the  voute  pointed  out,  together  with 
a  topographical  description  of  the  same,  to  ascertain  the 
latitude  and  longitude  of  all  the  remarkable  points,  to 
examine  and  describe  its  productions,  animal,  vegetable, 
and  mmeral ;  and  to  enquire  into  the  character,  customs, 
&c.  of  the  Indian  tribes  inhabiting  the  same."* 

The  advanced  state  of  the  season  admitting  of  no  delay, 
the  necessary  preparations  for  the  expedition  were  hastily 
made,  and  the  party  left  Philadelphia  on  the  30th  of  April 
— consisting  of  Stephen  H.  Long,  Major  United  States' 


*  Reference  was  also  made  to  the  Instructions  which  w^ere  issued  by 
the  War  Department  at  the  commercement  of  the  Expedition  to  the 
Itocky  Mountains,  an  extract  of  which  is  inserted  in  the  Journal  of 
that  expedition. 


iM 


rl 


la 


EXPEDITION   TO   TUB 


t      ; 


1 


li: 


Topographical  Engineers,  ''.omnianding  the  Expedition— 
Thomas  Say,  Zoologist  ^  Antiquary — William  H. 
Keating,  Mineralogist  ana  ^  )logi.st — Samuel  Seymour, 
Landscape  Painter  and  Designer.  Messrs.  Say  and  Kea- 
ting were  likewise  appointed  joint  literary  journalists  to  the 
expedition,  and  charged  with  the  collecting  of  the  requisite 
information  concerning  the  names,  numbers,  manners,  cus- 
toms, &c.  of  the  Indian  tribes  on  the  route.* 

The  party  travelled  in  light   carriages  from    Phila- 
delphia to  Wheeling,  where  they  disposed  of  them  and 

•  Lieut.  AsDBKW  Taicott  of  the  United  States'  Topographical  Engi- 
neers, had  been  appointed  second  in  command  of  the  expedition,  and 
was  to  have  assisted  the  commander  in  the  astronomical  and  topographi- 
cal department,  but  his  services  being  required  in  another  direction, 
James  Edward  Colmoun  was  appointed  astronomer  and  assistant  topo- 
grapher, and  leaving  the  City  of  Washington,  proceeded  to  Columbus, 
(Ohio,)  where  he  joined  the-  party  on  the  20th  of  May. 

Dr.  Edwik  James,  Botanict,  &c.  to  the  Expedition  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  Surgeon  in  the  United  States'  army,  had  been  appointed 
botanist,  geologist,  and  physician  to  the  expedition.    In  pursuance  of 
which,  orders  were  sent  to  him  at  Albany,  where  he  then  was,  to  join 
tlie  party  at  Wheeling  or  Columbus,  and  as  it  was  apprehended  that 
he  might  have  already  left  that  place  on  his  way  to  Bellefontaine  on 
the  Mississippi,  (to  which  post  he  had  been  previously  ordered,)  letters 
were  written  with  a  view  to  intercept  him,  but  which  unfortunately 
did  not  reach  him  in  season,  and  at  the  time  when  the  party  passed 
through  Wheeling  he  was  in  Pittsburg,  where  he  remained  until  it 
was  too  late  for  him  to  overtake  them.    By  this  unfortunate  misunder- 
standing the  expedition  was  deprived  of  the  services  of  this  active  offi- 
cer. An  apprehension  that  some  unforeseen  event  might  prevent  Dr. 
James  from  joining  the  expedition,  induced  the  commanding  officer  to 
obtaia  a  division  of  the  services  allotted  to  him,  and  the  appointment 
of  Mr.  Keating  to  the  geological  department,  while  the  botanical  was 
reserved  for  Dr.  James.    It  continued  vacant  during  the  expedition,  a 
circumstance  which  was  much  to  be  regretted.     Mr.  Say  undertook 
however  to  collect  such  plants  as  might  appear  to  him  interesting,  but 
with  that  diffidence  with  u'  '.ch  a  man  will  attend  to  a  task  with  which 
he  does  not  profess  to  be  conversant. 


li!: 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER  3    niVER. 


IS 


purchased  horses  in  exchange.  This  part  of  the  journey  was 
IKjrfonned  in  eleven  days.  The  usual  route  through  Lan- 
caster, Columbia,  York,  and  Gettysburg,  was  travelled. 
Here  they  left  the  Pittsburg  turnpike  road  and  reached 
Hagerstown  in  Maryland  by  a  cross  road;  from  Ilagers- 
town  they  continued  along  the  Maryland  turnpike  road  to 
Cumberland,  where  it  unites  with  the  national  road,  upon 
which  they  travelled  to  Wheeling. 

From  Philadelphia  to  Wheeling,  the  Geologist  has  an 
opportunity  of  observing  almost  every  formation,  from  Uie 
old  primitive  to  the  coal  strata.  On  leaving  Philadelphia, 
the  primitive  soon  disappears,  and  is  replaced  by  the  tran- 
sition limestone,  which  is  of  a  blue  colour,  very  much  in- 
termixed with  quartz  in  veins  running  through  the  mass. 
There  are  also  patches  of  white  limestone  which  are  ob- 
served in  sundry  places,  and  which  being  of  a  highly  crys- 
talline character,  might  almost  induce  us  to  rank  this  lime- 
stone as  primitive. 

We  find  occasionally  breaking  through  the  Hi  stone, 
hills  composed  of  amphibolic  rocks ;  this  accident  is  more 
frequent  as  we  approach  the  Brandywine.  These  hills  are 
very  readily  discernible  from  the  undulations  of  the  lime- 
stone country,  by  the  difference  in  their  outward  form, 
which  in  the  limestone  hills  is  mammillary,  constituting 
low  and  rounded  swells ;  while  the  amphibolic  hills  are 
steep,  and  covered  with  a  wilder  vegetation.  Beyond  Lan- 
caster the  rocks  assume  a  slaty  appearance,  which  increased 
as  we  approached  the  Susquehann  i.  At  Columbia  we  had 
an  opportunity  of  observing  the  rock  as  it  is  laid  bare  in 
the  bed  of  the  river.  It  there  appears  to  be  the  red  sandstone, 
and  is  that  mentioned  by  Mr.  Maclure  in  his  observations 
on  the  geology  of  the  United  States.  It  constitutes  part 
of  a  red  sandstone  formation,  which  crosses  through  the 


Ill 
Hi 


I , 


!(  'li 


11 


h 


14 


KXPEDITION    TO    THE 


states  of  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  and  Vir- 
ginia. This  formation  extends  in  a  general  north-easterly 
direction.  The  rock  appears  to  be  nearly  horizontally  stra- 
tified, but  from  the  slight  inclination  which  it  presents  to 
the  north,  the  strata  are  presumed  to  extend  in  a  nortli- 
east  and  south-west  direction. 

The  limestone  and  red  sandstone,  with  its  accompanying 
red  slate,  alternately  appear  on  the  west  side  of  the  Sus- 
quehanna. The  limestone  is  generally  found  in  the  val- 
leys, and  the  sandstone  upon  the  acclivities  of  the  hills, 
which  are  generally  crowned  with  small  patches  of  trap. 
This  rock  occurs,  however,  only  upon  the  higher  hills, 
where  it  seems  to  have  protected  the  sandstone  from  de- 
composition. 

On  approaching  Millerstown,  the  country  assumes  a 
more  broken  appearance;  the  limestone  ceases,  and  indica- 
tions of  crystallization  are  visible  in  the  rocks.  Millers- 
town,  (sometimes  called  Fairfield,)  is  situated  on  the  east- 
ern side,  and  at  no  great  distance  of  that  ridge  which  is 
generally  called  the  South  mountain,  and  which  may  be 
considered  as  the  easternmost  of  the  parallel  ridges,  which 
constitute  the  great  chain  of  Alleghany  mountains,  at  least 
in  the  southern  part  of  Pennsylvania.  In  the  vicinity  of 
this  place,  there  are  masses  of  a  calcareous  breccia,  in  every 
respect  similar  to  that  found  on  the  Potomac,  and  which 
has  acquired  of  late  a  well-merited  celebrity,  on  account  of 
its  having  been  used  for  the  beautiful  columns  which  adorn 
the  interior  of  the  Capitol,  in  the  City  of  Washington. 
This  breccia,  which  is  too  well  known  to  require  descrip- 
tion, consists  of  fragments  of  limestone  of  very  many  kinds, 
differing  in  texture,  colour,  &c.  all  imbedded  in  a  calcare- 
ous cement.  Some  of  these  fragments  have  a  fine  sacca- 
roidal  or  subsaccaroidal  grain,  while  others  are  compact. 


SOURCE   OP   ST.    PETER  S   RIVER. 


15 


There  are  also  fragments  of  white  quartz  intermixed  with 
those  of  limestone.  The  breccia  appears  to  form  partial 
deposits  in  the  coves  or  valley  basins  of  that  vicinity. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  this  town  there  are  numerous 
indications  of  the  existence  of  large  deposits  of  copper.  The 
ores  of  this  metal  have  been  found  in  many  places,  and 
excavations  were  commenced  as  far  back  as  the  year  1798. 
Some  of  the  ore  obtained  at  this  place  was  sent  to  England, 
where  it  is  said  to  have  been  worked  to  advantage.  An 
attempt  was  made  last  year  to  resume  the  operations,  but 
with  no  great  success.  The  want  of  a  person  qualified  to 
determine  as  to  the  best  spots  at  which  to  commence  the 
excavations,  may  be  considered  as  the  principal  obstacle 
existing  at  present  to  the  success  of  these  works.  The  ore 
hitherto  extracted  is  not  sufficiently  rich  to  warrant  works  to 
any  great  extent,  but  sqme  specimens  which  were  analysed 
last  year  in  Mr.  Keating's  laboratory  in  the  University  of 
Pennsylvania,  yielded  as  much  as  thirty  per  cent.  That  the 
smelting  of  this  ore  could  be  made  profitable,  if  a  sufficiency 
of  it  were  obtained,  appears  from  the  circumstance,  that  a 
ton  of  the  ore  which  was  sent  to  Cent'^e  county,  to  be  re- 
duced at  one  of  the  iron  works,  yielded  aUout  three  hun- 
dred weight  of  metal. 

The  ore  discovered  in  this  vicinity  varies,  but  is  for  tlie 
most  part  a  mixture  of  the  oxidule,  (red  oxide,)  with  the 
green  carbonate,  the  hydrate,  the  copper  pyrites,  the  sul- 
phuret  of  copper,  and  gray  copper  ore.  The  whole  of  it 
appears  very  much  intermixed  with  siliceous  matter. 
These  masses  of  copper  ore  are  in  a  talcose  slate — they  are  to 
be  observed  every  where.  Doubts  exist  as  to  the  manner 
in  which  they  lie,  the  sides  of  the  excavations  had  sunk  in, 
so  much,  at  the  time  the  party  passed  through,  that  it  waa 
not  in  their  power  to  determine  that  question ;  from  the  in- 


' 


I  i 


Hi  ■  'i! 


i:    ■■ 


16 


£J(F£DITION    TO   THE 


formation  which  was  received,  it  would  appear  probable, 
that  the  ore  has  been  worked,  in  one  place  at  least,  on  a 
vein  running  nearly  east  and  west.  .The  rock,  as  has  been 
observed,  is  a  talcosc  slate,  which  in  some  places  appears  to 
be  penetrated  with  copper  pyrites.  These  mines  all  lay  in 
a  hill  known  by  the  name  of  Jack's  mountain ;  upon  the 
top  of  which  a  porphyritic  rock  occurs.  The  crystals  are 
of  feldspar;  the  cement  is  of  a  red  colour,  and  appears  to 
he  c©nTpaet  feldspar,  (petrosilex  palaiopetre  of  de  Saus- 
sure ;)  besides  the  crystals  of  feldspar,  there  are  some  of 
quartz  and  probably  of  mica.  This  porphyry  appears, 
principally  upon  the  east  side  of  the  mountain  towards  the 
top — no  indications  of  stratification  were  observable.  The 
porphyry  constitutes  probably  a  subordinate  formation  in 
the  talcose  slate  which  reappears  on  the  crest  of  the  hill, 
and  is  there  Very  abundantly  studded  with  small  crystals, 
which  are  presumed  to  be  epidote.  In  descending  on  the 
west  side  of  Jack's  mountain,  the  blue  limestone  reappears 
very  distinctly  stratified,  the  strata  running  north-east  and 
south-west,  it  dips  in  most  places  about  80°  to  the  south- 
east. The  dip  varies  however,  being  only  in  some  places 
about  30°,  as  may  be  very  distinctly  observed  in  the  exca- 
vations made  for  cellars,  &c.  at  Ha^erstown. 

This  town  is  pleasantly  situated  in  Washington  county, 
Maryland,  on  the  great  turnpike  road  which  leads  from 
Baltimore  to  Cumberland.  We  saw  here  specimens  of  the 
white  marble  which  occurs  at  Boonsborough,  about  ten 
miles  south-east  of  Hagerstown.  It  is  said  to  exist  there  in 
considerable  quantities  on  the  west  side  of  the  South  moun- 
tain not  far  from  its  foot.  It  was  at  first  mistaken  for  gyp- 
sum by  the  people  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  very  abun- 
dantly applied  to  manure  their  lands,  and  it  was  only  after 
its  ineificacy  had  been  demonstrated  by  experience,  that 


(III  a 
ipi  111 

if.-   r, 


SOURCE    OP   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


17 


>robablc, 
ist,  on  a 
has  been 
ppears  to 
all  lay  in 
ipon  the 
i^stals  are 
ppears  to 
de  Saus- 
some  of 
appears 
vards  the 
ble.    The 
nation  in 
the  hill, 
crystals, 
ig  on  the 
reappears 
i-east  and 
le  south- 
ne  places 
the  exca- 

1  county, 
ads  from 
US  of  the 
about  ten 
; there  in 
th  moun- 
for  gyp- 
;ry  abun- 
nly  after 
nee,  that 


its  true  nature  was  ascertained.  This  marble  is  of  the  finest 
white,  with  a  subsaccaroidal  grain,  and  may  become  of 
gre^  use  in  buildings ;  it  is  however  too  fine-grained 
for  statuary  purposes.  An  analysis  of  it  was  made  with  a 
view  to  ascertain  its  purity ;  it  was  found  to  consist  en- 
tirely of  carbonate  of  lime,  with  little  or  no  foreign  admix- 
ture. It  certainly  belongs  to  the  primitive  formation,  and 
corroborates  the  opinion  we  had  formed  at  Millerstown, 
that  the  primitive  rocks  reappear  to  the  west  of  the  red 
sandstone  formation  ;  a  circumstance  not  stated  in  the  geo- 
logical observations  of  Mr.  Maclure.  It  is  probable,  how- 
ever, that  the  appearance  of  the  primitive  there  is  but  par- 
tial, and  confined  to  certain  localities,  where  it  rises  through 
the  inc^dmbent  strata  of  transition  rocks.  There  is  an  exten- 
sive cave  or  grotto  in  the  blue  limestone,  about  seven 
miles  to  the  east  of  Hagerstown,  which  has  not  yet  been 
fully  explored. 

From  Hagerstown  to  Cumberland  the  mountains  are 
numerous,  and  the  works  which  have  been  executed  for  the 
road  have  in  many  places  laid  the  rock  bare,  so  as  to  make 
its  structure  apparent.  We  there  sec  a  great  variety  in  the 
nature  of  the  rocks,  which  however  are  observed  uniformly 
to  belong  to  the  transition  or  secondary ;  the  firmer  being 
observed  near  to  Hagerstown,  and  passing  gradually  into 
the  latter,  which  occur  very  distinctly  in  the  vicinity  of 
Cumberland.  At  first,  the  blue  limestone,  with  a  consi- 
derable, though  varying,  dip  to  the  south-east,  is  seen 
gradually  passing  into  a  slaty  rock,  which  finally  predo- 
minates, and  is  a  transition  clay-slate,  prooably  the  Crrau- 
wacken-shiefer  of  German  mineralogists.  This  however 
is  found  in  parallel  directions,  alternating,  as  is  believed, 
with  this  limestone,  on  a  distance  of  several  miles.  After 
which,  as  we  approach  the  North  mountain,  a  sandstone  of 

Vol.  I.  3* 


18 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


I  :>L 


apparently  very  ancient  formation,  and  which  we  feel  in- 
clined to  refer  to  the  red  sandstone  formation,  occurs.  It 
frequently  acquires  a  reddish  colour,  and  being  in  great 
measure  composed  of  quartz,  assumes  in  some  places  the 
appearance  of  an  eisenkiesel.  Its  stratification  is  very  dis- 
tinct, extending  from  north-east  to  south-west  and  dipping 
to  the  north-west.  This  stratification  is  not  visible  on 
both  sides  of  the  mountain.  The  eastern  slope  being  car- 
ried upon  the  crests  of  the  strata,  which  are  very  brittle,  a 
sort  of  soil  is  soon  formed  from  the  fragments  of  the  rock, 
which  entirely  conceals  it  from  view,  bat  on  the  western 
slope  it  is  very  well  marked.  On  the  summit  of  the  hill, 
numberless  fragments  of  trap  rock  are  strewed  in  every 
direction.  To  the  w^est  of  this  ridge  we  again  strike  the 
clay-slate,  which  continues  along  the  valley  of  the  Potomac, 
being  interrupted  by  the  appearance  of  the  blue  limestone 
in  the  traverse  valleys  of  the  Big  and  Little  Conolaway 
Creeks.  This  slate  differs  very  much  from  that  described 
above  as  constituting  the  North  mountain.  The  latter  is  a 
quartzose,  the  former  an  argillaceous  slate  ;  and  the  difier- 
ence  of  dip  is  suificient  to  distinguish  them. 

This  clay-slate  is  formed  of  alternate  layers  of  a  very 
shistose  mass  and  a  more  compact  one.  The  layers  vary 
in  thickness,  many  of  them  however  not  exceeding  a  few 
inches.  In  the  more  compact  layers  there  are  indications 
of  a  globular  structure  consisting  of  concentric  shales. 

The  slate  is  soon  succeeded  by  a  sandstone,  which 
constitutes  several  of  the  mountains  known  by  the  local 
appellations  of  the  Sideling,  Town-hill,  &c.  It  is  not 
possible  to  determine  with  precision  the  spot  at  which  t/.e 
sandstone  of  coal  formations  commences,  indeed  we  think 
it  probable  that  no  such  limit  exists  in  nature.  The  pro- 
cess may  have  continued  without  any  marked  interruption. 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER  S   RIVER. 


19 


from  the  time  at  which  the  transition  formations  were  pro- 
duced, until  the  coal  and  its  accompanying  strata  had  com- 
menced to  be  formed.  We  observe,  in  most  cases,  that 
the  slate  and  reddish  sandstone  occupy  the  base  of  the 
higher  mountains,  and  constitute  the  whole  of  the  lower 
ones ;  while  the  crest  of  the  high  hills  is  formed  of  a  sand- 
stone which  in  every  respect  resembles  that  of  the  coal  for- 
mations. There  seems  likewise  to  be  a  difference  in  the 
organic  remains  contained  in  these  rocks,  for  in  the  lower 
ones  there  are  but  vegetable  impressions,  (chiefly  stems,) 
while  in  the  superior  strata,  shells  belonging  to  the  genus 
Terebratula  or  Productus,  are  very  frequently  met  with. 

We  had  an  opportunity  of  ascertaining  that  the  slate 
which  occupies  the  whole  valley  of  the  Potomac,  in  this 
district,  varies  in  its  dip ;  sometimes  inclining  to  the  south- 
cast,  and  at  other  times  to  the  north-west.  In  one  spot  we 
observed  the  change  in  the  dip  produced  by  a  very  gentle 
undulation,  without  any  derangement  or  interruption  in 
the  stratification.  Overlaying  this  slate,  there  is  a  lime- 
stone of  a  blueish  colour,  presenting  signs  of  organic  re- 
mains, and  constituting  Martin's  Hill,  which  is  one  of  the 
highest  in  the  range.  This  limestone  appears  at  first  to  be 
horizontally  stratified,  after  which  it  assumes  an  inclined 
position,  and  on  ascending  becomes  nearly  vertical,  while 
the  top  of  the  hill  is  crov,  ned  with  large  masses  of  lime- 
stone, quite  free  from  stratification,  and  presenting  only  a 
very  irregular  division.  Upon  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
the  limestone  is  cavernous,  and  contains  many  organic  re- 
mains, among  which  the  Terebratula  and  Produ'itus  are 
chiefly  discernible.  It  is  filled  with  veins  of  crystalline  car- 
bonate of  lime,  which  in  some  places  assumes  regular  forms. 

From  Cumberland  to  Wheeling  the  geology  of  the 
country  is  much  simplified.    The  coal  formation  predomi- 


so 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


i\ 


nates  without  any  interruption.  It  consists  merely  of  al- 
ternating strata  of  slate-clay,  sandstone,  limestone,  and  coal. 
Of  these  the  sandstone  is  the  most  abundant ;  it  is  generally 
fine-grained,  composed  principally  of  fragments  of  quartz, 
connected  by  a  siliceous  cement  In  some  cases  there  ia 
much  mica,  and  at  times  a  little  feldspar,  so  as  to  consti- 
tute in  local  formations  a  regenerated  granite  not  unlike 
that  observable  in  the  coal  basin  of  St.  Etienne  in  France, 
but  these  are  rather  mineralogical  curiosities,  and  can 
scarcely  be  considered  as  forming  a  feature  in  the  geology 
of  this  part  of  the  route.  The  stratification  is  nearly  hori- 
zontal, and  is  very  distinct  wherever  the  slate-clay  is  found, 
but  where  this  rock  is  deficient,  the  sandstone  loses  its 
stratified  character,  or  at  least  ceases  to  present  it  in  a  dis- 
tinct manner. 

The  sandstone  frequently  alternates  with  the  slate-clay, 
and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  observe  a  real  passage  of  the 
one  into  the  other ;  in  some  cases,  as  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Cumberland,  the  slate-clay  is  very  rare. 

The  limestone  is  compact,  of  a  grayish  or  brownish  co- 
lour, very  argillaceous,  emitting  a  strong  argillaceous 
odour  when  breathed  upon ;  it  occurs  in  parallel  stratifica- 
tion with  the  above-mentioned  rockt;,  and  exists  very 
abundantly  all  over  the  country,  where  it  may  be  seen  in 
many  places  alternating  with  the  other  strata ;  but  we  know 
of  i.one  where  this  can  be  so  well  observed  as  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Monongahela,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Brownsville,  in  those  places  where  the  road  has  been  du^' 
into  the  hill. 

The  coal  has  not  yet  been  found  to  the  eastward  of 
Cumberland,  but  west  of  this  town  it  occurs  almost  every 
where ;  it  is  found  in  beds  which  vary  in  thickness  from 
an  inch  to  several,  sometimes  ten,  feet.    It  appears  that 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


21 


of  al- 
id  coal, 
nerally 
quartz^ 
here  ia 
consti- 
unlike 
France, 
nd  can 
geology 
ly  hori- 
s  found, 
OSes  its 
in  a  dis- 


ite-clay, 
3  of  the 
ourhood 


nish  00- 
llaceous 
tratiiica- 
3ts  very 
seen  in 
ve  know 
he  west 
lood  of 
een  duj^ 

ward  of 
t  every 
iss  from 
ars  that 


i 


these  beds  extend  over  the  whole  country,  for  the  same 
may  be  traced  for  miles  without  any  sensible  alteration  in 
its  appearance.  There  are  various  beds  at  different  levels 
and  of  different  qualities,  and  it  is  from  this  circumstance, 
probably,  that  the  coal  of  one  neighbourhood  is  considered 
preferable  to  that  of  another,  because  they  work  upon  beds 
at  diflferent  levels ;  yet  it  may  be  also  that  in  some  cases 
they  work  upon  one  and  the  same  bed,  the  quality  of 
which  may  be  improved  or  impaired  from  accidental  cir- 
cumstances. Small  excavations  are  made  in  numberless 
places  so  as  to  answer  the  wfjits  of  the  consumers.  It  is 
generally  obtained  at  the  mouth  of  the  pit  for  five  dollars 
per  hundred  bushels,  and  is  sometimes  sold  as  low  as  four 
cents  per  bushel.  In  the  town  of  Cumberland  it  usually 
sells  for  about  ten  dollars  per  hundred  bushels. 

The  abundance  of  timber  in  that  district,  and  the  thin- 
ness of  the  population,  have  not  yet  rendered  coal  the  ex- 
clusive fuel  used,  and  it  was  not  until  we  approached  the 
vicinity  of  Wheeling  that  we  found  coal  exclusively  used 
in  lime  and  brick  kilns. 

The  most  common  disposition  of  the  strata  presents  the 
sandstone  as  the  lowest  member  of  t^  \e  formation,  above  it 
is  the  coal,  which  is  itself  overlayed  by  the  slate,  and  the 
limestone  covers  the  whole,  and  becomes  itself  a  substratum 
for  a  superior  bed  of  sandstone,  &c. 

The  only  substances  of  any  importance  which  accom- 
pany these  rocks,  are  iron  pyrites,  and  probably  the  white 
pyrites.  These  minerals  aie  so  abundant  throughout  the 
rocks,  that  they  in  many  places  produce  a  very  rapid  de- 
composition and  destruction,  and  unfit  them  for  many  uses 
of  domestic  economy ;  thus  many  of  the  beds  of  coal  which 
would  otherwise  prove  valuable,  are  so  completely  pervad- 
ed with  pyrites  that  it  is  impossible  to  use  them  as  fuel  in 


I'-m^ 


2'> 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


I  y 


til 


1 1' 


I  i 


■\\'M 


'\n 


private  houses.  This  will  probably  ever  prevent  their  be- 
ing applied  to  metallurgical  purposes.  The  pyrites  not 
only  penetrate  the  coal  and  its  accompanying  slate,  but 
they  extend  even  into  the  sandstone,  to  which  they  in 
many  cases  impart  a  tendency  to  decomposition,  so  great 
as  to  render  it  unfit  for  use  as  a  building  stone.  To  the 
universal  diffusion  of  this  mineral  we  must  attribute  the 
circumstance  that  the  country  about  Wheeling  abounds  in 
mineral  springs,  strongly  charged  with  sulphates  of  iron  and 
alumine.  Indeed  it  is  a  matter  of  considerable  surprise,  that 
with  such  an  abundance  of  vitriolic  matter  at  hand,  and  with 
an  inexhaustible  store  of  coal  in  immediats  contact  with 
it,  no  attempt  has  as  yet  been  made  to  derive  advantage 
from  it,  by  converting  it  into  green  vitriol,  alum,  and 
sulphate  of  alumine.  No  doubt  can  be  entertained  of 
the  facility  with  which  this  might  be  effected,  and  of  the 
great  advantage  which  would  attend  it.  There  is  no  place 
we  think,  where  chemical  manufactures  of  every  kind 
could  thrive  to  si'ch  advantage  as  at  Wheeling.  With  coal 
mines  even  in  the  very  heart  of  the  town,  with  a  constant 
and  never-failing  navigation,  by  means  of  which  the  pro- 
ducts of  its  industry  may  be  sent  to  a  certain  market,  back- 
ed by  a  rich  agricultural  district  to  support  the  excess  of 
its  population.  Wheeling  seems  destined  to  rise  to  great 
affluence,  becoming  in  a  manner  the  emporium  through 
which  all  the  commerce  between  the  east  and  west  must 
pass. 

We  were  much  disappointed  at  not  finding  in  the  rocks 
as  many  organic  impressions  as  we  had  expected ;  we  could 
discover  no  shells  in  the  rocks,  though  we  have  reason  to 
believe  that  the  limestone  must  in  some  places  abound  in 
them. 

In  the  sandstone  there  are  many  vegetable  impressions. 


il:i 


SOURCE    OP   ST.    PETEH'S    RIVER. 


apparently  of  palms.  The  vegetable  matter  had  completely 
disappeared,  leaving  only  an  impression,  which,  although 
very  distinct,  was  not  sufficiently  well  characterised  to 
allow  of  a  determination  of  its  nature.  This  sandstone  is 
of  a  grayish  colour,  middling-sized  grain,  and  appears  to 
be  very  micacious  in  some  parts,  while  in  others  it  consists 
of  quartz  nearly  pure.  The  impressions  are  not  very 
large,  seldom  more  than  ten  or  twelve  inches  long,  and  lay 
parallel  to  the  stratification  of  the  rock.  At  the  hill  over 
which  the ,  national  road  passes,  in  the  immediate  vici- 
nity of  Wheeling,  the  sandstone  is  about  fifty  or  sixty  feet 
in  height,  divided  into  layers  of  variable  thickness:  over 
this  is  a  stratum  of  coal  eight  feet  thick.  In  this  coal,  as 
well  as  in  the  accompanying  slate,  there  are  many  remains 
of  vegetables  converted  into  pure  charcoal,  and  entirely 
free  from  bitumen.  These  though  numerous,  are  too  im- 
perfect to  allow  of  determining  the  species  to  which  they 
belong.  This  bed,  as  well*  as  the  other  parallel  ones,  when 
not  too  much  intermixed  with  pyrites,  is  worked  by  galle- 
ries running  into  the  hill.  The  works  are  very  carelessly 
carried  on  and  the  wiste  of  coal  is  great  The  propping 
is  very  rough  and  unsafe,  frequent  accidents  occur  from 
this  cir'iumstapce.  The  ventilation  is  not  understood,  and 
many  works  have  been  abandoned  from  the  foulness  of  the 
air,  no  attempt  being  made  to  correct  it.  No  inconvenience 
has  as  yet  been  experienced  from  inflammable  gases ;  but  the 
carbonic  acid  and  the  gaseous  oxide  of  carbon  are  very 
abundant. 

This  bed  of  coal  is  separated  from  a  superior  one  by  a 
bed  of  slate-clay  of  about  three  feet  in  thickness,  which 
from  its  unsoundness  is  always  worked  at  the  same  time 
as  the  upper  and  lower  beds  of  coal ;  although  the  upper 
coal  be  but  six  or  eight  inches  thick  and  of  a  very  inferior 


Hi 


I  'i 

Hiill 


V    '        I  I 


h'i  ! 


'if: 


i! 


il'Ulil! 


Bl  i 


liiht 


84 


FXFEDITION   TO  THE 


quality;  but  in  th's  manner  a  safer  roof  is  obtained  for  the 
excavation. 

The  limestone  is  considerably  affected  by  the  pyrites, 
and  being  in  some  places,  as  we  were  informed,  magnesian, 
it  gives  rise  to  sulphate  of  magnesia,  which  might  also 
probably  be  worked  to  advantage.  The  pyritous  beds  of 
limestone  are  only  such  as  come  into  contact  with  the  coal, 
the  superior  strata  are  said  to  be  quite  free  from  it 

The  only  circumstance  worth  mentioning  concerning 
the  coal  mines  is,  that  they  have  frequently  begn  on  fire, 
and  that  there  are  many  indications  of  conflagrations  at  a 
more  remote  period,  probably  caused  by  the  spreading  of 
the  fires  lighted  at  the  surface  by  the  Indians  to  facilitate 
their  hunting.  From  these  conflagrations  the  slate  is  in 
many  places  observed  to  be  quite  altered  in  its  appearance, 
so  as  to  resemble  porcelain  jasper  in  its  characters. 

No  iron  ore  has  been  found  in  this  neighbourhood,  and 
we  looked  in  vain,  for  indicatiofls  of  the  argillaceous  car- 
bonate of  iron,  so  usually  to  be  met  with  in  coal  fields.  We 
were  informed  that  at  some  distance  from  the  town,  large 
quantities  of  i;  on  ore  had  been  discovered,  but  which  from 
the  characters  ascribed  to  it  we  were  induced  to  believe 
were  not  the  argillaceous  carbonate,  but  the  oxide  and 
hydrate  of  iron. 

Having  thus  presented  in  one  connected  view,  the  vari- 
ous geological  observations  which  were  mado  on  this 
part  of  the  route,  we  return  to  notice  the  other  interesting 
circumstances  which  attracted  the  attention  of  our  party. 

The  route  which  we  travelled  is  far  more  interesting  to 
the  general  observer  than  that  to  Pittsburg,  the  country 
along  the  Potomac  offers  many  very  fine  views,  among  which 
none  is  more  remarkable  than  that  from  Sideling-hill.  The 
ranges  of  mountains  as  they  then  present  themselves,  strike 


SOURCE  OF  $T.  Peter's  river. 


25 


the  traveller  in  the  most  favourable  manner.  The  freshness 
of  the  vegetation  is  peculiarly  grateful  to  the  eye  in  the  com- 
mencement of  May,  and  contrasts  beautifully  with  the 
deep  blue  of  the  distant  mountains.  At  times  the  road  winds 
along  the  valley ;  and  again,  it  crosses  the  ridges,  ofiering 
the  greatest  variety  of  scenery  and  affording  to  the  artist 
many  views  worthy  of  his  pencil ;  for  while  the  bottoms 
abound  in  rich  and  smiling  prospects,  the  mountainous 
parts  arrest  the  attention,  by  their  bold  and  gigantic  fea- 
tures, and  by  the  antique  forests  which  cover  them. 

The  season  in  which  we  commenced  our  journey,  was 
not  very  favourable  to  the  proper  display  of  vegetation. 
The  frost  had  not  yet  subsided  in  the  mountainous  dis- 
tricts, and  the  very  heavy  rains  which  had  fallen  in  great 
abundance  this  spring,  had  retarded  all  the  products  of  the 
earth  to  an  unusual  degree,  but  the  fine  blossoms  of  the  dog- 
wood tree,  (  Cot  nus  fltyriday)  which  every  where  met  the 
eye,  amply  compensated  for  a  want  of  other  flowers. 

Art  has  done  little  to  add  to  the  charms  of  the  natural 
scenery,  except  in  the  construction  of  a  road.  The  question 
of  the  propriety  of  opening,  at  the  national  expense,  a  com- 
munication between  the  Ohio  and  Potomac,  had  been  so 
much  the  subject  of  discussion,  as  to  make  us  desirous  of 
observing  the  mode  in  which  it  had  been  executed,  and  the 
too  favourable  idea,  which  we  are,  perhaps,  always  led  to 
form,  of  what  carries  with  it  a  national  character,  together 
with  an  account  of  the  immense  expenditure  incurred  in 
the  making  of  this  road,  had  prepared  us  for  a  magnificent 
work.  We  were  therefore  somewhat  disappointed  at  the 
state  in  which  we  found  it,  as  it  is  very  inferior  in  execu- 
tion to  the  Maryland  road,  which  connects  with  it  There  is 
in  the  whole  of  the  national  road  but  little  to  justify  the  high 
eulogiums  which  have  been  passed  upon  it.    The  immense 

Vol.  I.  4 


i 


m 


ii 


"  :i!- 


'I  ;  ! 


1«!  II 

■ill  i; 

■'  ii 


I!  '      . 

iil 


i 


III  I!'   I 


Liiii' 


26 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


expense,  amounting  to  nearly  two  millions  of  dollars, 
(81,995,000,)  which  has  attended  its  construction,  can  be  ac- 
counted for  but  by  a  reference  to  the  difficulty  of  making  a 
road  across  high  and  steep  ridges,  which  perhaps  had  not  been 
sufficiently  explored,  to  ascertain  the  lowest  levels  and  the 
most  accessible  points ;  and,  as  we  think,  to  the  injudicious 
manner  in  which  the  original  contracts  were  given  out  We 
were  credibly  informed,  that  in  most  cases  the  original  un- 
dertakers  did  nothing  themselves,  but  portion  out  their  con- 
tracts to  a  second  set  of  contractors,  and  in  some  cases  it 
happened  that  the  third  or  fourth  set  alone  performed  the 
work,  the  other  contractors  sweeping  away  immense  sums 
without  any  labour.*  Had  the  route  been  properly  divided 
into  small  lots,  and  these  only  given  to  such  as  were  really 
qualified  to  execute  the  work,  no  doubt  can  exist  that  a 
considerable  saving  would  have  been  obtained.  The  letting 
it  out  into  large  sections  had  the  disadvantage  of  making 
it  an  object  of  speculation,  and  of  alarming  many  who 
would  otherwise  have  ofifered  themselves  as  contractors. 

Another  cause  of  the  great  expense  which  attended  it, 
was  the  location  of  its  western  end  in  the  valley  of  Wheel- 
ing creek,  instead  of  carrying  it  ever  the  high  land.  Some 
difference  of  opinion  exists  in  the  country  as  to  the  pro- 
priety of  this  selection.  We  were  informed  by  many,  that 
this  location  had  been  made,  rather  with  a  view  to  benefit 
private  interests,  than  with  a  careful  regard  for  the  public 
good.  Certain  it  is,  that  the  number  of  bridges  which  were 
required  in  the  route  through  the  valleys,  added  very  con- 
siderably to  the  expense  of  the  road.  There  are  no  less 
than  seventeen  bridges  over  the  main  creek,  within  thir- 
teen miles  of  this  valley  road.    It  is  but  justice  to  observe, 

I*  One  of  these  is  said  to  have  accumulated  in  this  manner  a  fortune 
of  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  dollars. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


87 


that  the  bridges  are,  for  the  most  part,  substantial,  well 
built,  and  even  elegant  in  their  construction.*  A  circum- 
stance which  enhanced  much  the  expense  ^f  the  valley 
road,  was  the  necessity  of  propping  it  in  many  places  by 
a  stone  wall  or  parapet,  amounting  in  the  aggregate  to  at 
least  one-fourth  or  one-third  of  the  distance.  The  road 
has,  however,  along  this  route,  the  advantage  of  being  car- 
ried almost  on  a  dead  level,  and  in  the  other  parts,  where 
it  crosses  the  mountains,  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  the 
ascents  are  better  regulated  than  on  any  other  road  we  have 
ever  travelled.  But  a  great  defect  which  prevails  throughout 
the  whole  route,  and  which  we  had  not  expected  to  meet  with, 
is  that  of  using  stones  of  too  large  a  diameter  on  the  road.  Af- 
ter all  the  improvements  which  have  been,  of  late  years,  miide 
in  this  important  branch  of  engineering,  and  after  the  very 
just  celebrity  which  the  M' Adams'  roads  have  obtained  in 


•  a  fortune 


*  At  the  extremity  of  one  of  these  bridges,  a  monument  has  been 
erected  by  a  Mr.  Shepherd,  one  of  the  principal  contractors  of  this 
road.  From  an  inscription  on  the  monument,  we  learn  that  it  was 
erected  by  "  Moses  and  Lydia  Shepherd,  in  honour  of  Mr.  Speaker 
Clay,  as  a  testimony  of  their  gratitude  to  him,  and  of  their  high  vene* 
ration  for  his  public  and  private  character."  Mr.  Clay  is  known  to 
have  advocated  this  undertaking,  on  the  floor  of  congress,  with  much 
talent  and  zeal.  There  are,  we  believe,  as  yet,  but  few  instances  of 
monuments  erected  in  our  country  by  private  individuals,  to  comme- 
morate the  public  services  of  our  statesmen,  and  we  must  regret  that 
the  taste  which  designed,  and  the  hands  which  executed  this  monu- 
ment, were  not  equal  to  the  liberality  which  provided  for  it.  We  have 
seldom  seen  a  more  clumsy  attempt  at  allegory,  or  a  more  unfortunate 
introduction  of  emblematical  figures.  The  inscriptions  are  also  equally 
deficient  in  taste,  in  grammatical  construction,  and  in  orthography. 
In  order  to  improve  its  appearance,  the  stone  in  itself  a  beautiful  build- 
ing material,  has  been  covered  with  a  wash  or  padnt,  which,  having 
scaled  off  from  some  parts  and  remained  upon  others,  contributes  to 
give  it  a  motley  and  uncouth  appearance. 


.i|''!' 


''!i'* 


ll'l 


!• 


Iliiii^ 


1 II 


itli 


11 


I! 


11 

iii!, 
i 


I'iii 


ijllH 


38 


EXPEDITION   TO   THR 


England,  we  had  hoped  that  the  suggestions  of  this  able 
engineer  on  this  subject,  would  have  been  more  closely  ad- 
hered to.  Whatever  may  have  been  the  defects  or  the 
mistakes  which  attended  the  location  or  execution,  no 
doubt  can  exist  as  to  the  importance  of  the  work  itself,  or 
as  to  the  soundness  of  the  policy  which  led  to  it.  By  the 
opening  of  it,  the  nation  has  gained  a  great  deal ;  it  has  as- 
certained the  practicability  and  the  expediency  of  entering 
largely  upon  a  system  of  internal  improvements,  the  ne- 
cessary consequence  of  which  must  be,  to  Ui.ite  by  closer 
bonds,  the  distant  parts  of  our  vast  country ;  and  of  all  im- 
provements, none  can  be  more  important,  than  such  as  tend 
to  connect  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  with  those  of 
the  Atlantic.  Immediately  allied  to  this  subject,  is  the  pos- 
sibility of  making  a  water  communication  between  the 
Ohio  and  Potomac.  At  a  time  when,  by  a  broad  and  liberal 
policy,  the  executive  of  the  United  States  has  been  autho- 
rized to  apply  to  the  consideration  of  this  important  object, 
the  united  talents  of  the  civil  and  military  engineers  of 
our  country,  and  when  a  full  and  able  report  upon  the 
practicability  of  this  connexion  may  be  expected  from  those 
most  competent  to  decide  upon  it,  we  shall  be  excused  from 
en  bodying  here,  the  imperfect  information  which  a  tran- 
sient visit  through  the  country  has  allowed  us  to  collect. 

We  found  some  interest  in  that  part  of  the  route  which 
lies  near  Smithfield,  as  being  the  scene  of  some  of  General 
Washington's  earliest  military  operations.  The  ruins  of 
Fort  Necessity,  constructed  at  that  distressing  season^  when 
the  French  troops  with  their  savage  allies  extended  along 
the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  and  oppressed  our  frontier  settle- 
ments, are  still  to  be  seen  in  what  are  called  the  Big  Mea- 
dows, about  fifty  miles  west  of  Cumberland.  This  fort  was 
erected  in  the  year  1754,  and  after  having  been  defended 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER's    RIVER. 


M 


with  great  valour,  was  surrendered  in  the  campaign  which 
preceded  Braddock's  defeat,  (Marshall's  Life  of  Washing- 
ton, Vol.  ii,  p.  9,)  and  the  remains  of  it  still  to  be  traced, 
show  that  the  ditch  was  inside  of  the  embankment,  which 
comports  better  with  Indian  warfare.*  The  fort  stands  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  south-west  of  the  road,  and  it  is 
difficult  to  trace  its  outline,  but  from  the  observations  we 
made,  it  would  appear  as  if  it  had  been  triangular  and 
scarcely  one  hundred  feet  in  length.  It  is  said  that  when 
Washington  first  entered  it,  his  force  amounted  to  six  hun- 
dred men,  but  that  having  advanced  on  his  march  towards 

*  We  are  led  to  notice  this  fact  more  particularly,  from  the  impor- 
tance which  Bishop  Madison  has  attached  to  the  circumstance  of  the 
ditch  being  inside  of  the  ramparts  in  most,  or  perhaps  in  all  the  Indian 
remains,  which  are  considered  as  fortifications.  His  opinion  that  these 
works  were  not  of  a  military  nature,  appears  to  us  very  far  from  being 
proved.  He  quotes  Livy  and  Polybius  to  show  us,  that  in  Roman  works, 
**  the  parapet  or  breastwork  was  formed  of  the  earth  dug  out  from  the 
fosse  and  thrown  up  on  the  tide  of  the  camp" — and  he  further  asks, 
**  whether  the  military  art  does  not  require  that  the  ditch  should  be 
exterior."  We  do  not  consider  this  to  be  the  question  at  issue.  We 
have  derived  our  notions  of  fortifications  from  the  Romans,  and  we  have 
continued  to  this  day,  probably  with  propriety,  to  plnce  the  ditch  out- 
side of  the  rampart ;  but  this  is  no  reason  why  works  constructed  by 
the  Indians  for  military  purposes,  may  not  have  had  it  otherwise.  If 
we  form  our  opinion  of  their  notions  of  the  military  art,  from  the  traces 
still  visible  among  the  Indians,  who,  if  they  be  not  their  lineal  descen- 
dants, have  at  least  succeeded  to  them  in  the  inhabitance  of  that  coun- 
try, (and  it  is  more  consistent  to  look  to  them  than  to  the  Romans  in 
this  case,)  we  will  find  that  their  usual  practice  is,  when  apprehensive 
of  an  attack  from  an  enemy,  to  make  a  small  excavation,  by  digging 
up  a  little  earth,  which  they  uniformly  throw  out  in  the  direction  from 
which  they  apprehend  an  attack,  and  then  to  descend  into  this  hollow 
where  they  find  Uiemselves  sheltered  from  the  missile  weapons  of 
their  enemies.  (Vide  a  letter  on  the  supposed  fortifications  of  the 
western  country, from  Bishop  Madison  of  Virginia  to  Dr.  Barton,  Amer. 
Phil.  Trans.  Vol.  vi.  i,  p.  132.) 


30 


EXPEDITION  TO' THE 


i;i:i. 


i  .., 


Fort  Duquesne  he  was  abandoned  by  a  considerable  pro- 
portion of  his  men,  and  this  circumstance,  together  with 
the  information  which  he  received,  that  the  French  were 
advancing  against  him  with  reinforcements,  obliged  him  to 
abandon  for  the  time  his  contemplated  march,  and  to  re- 
turn to  Fort  Necessity,  which  he  was  engaged  in  repairing 
when  the  enemy  made  his  appearance.  The  country  in 
the  vicinity  was  probably  at  that  time  destitute  of  timber, 
the  growth  upon  it  not  being  very  large.  A  fine  brook 
which  flows  near  it,  has  retained  the  name  of  the  unfortu- 
nate general  who,  in  the  ensuing  campaign  paid  for  his 
rashness  by  the  loss  of  his  life.  Indeed,  it  is  said,  that  the 
remains  of  General  Braddock  were  interred  within  two 
miles  of  this  fort,  near  the  old  road  called  Braddock's  road, 
and  at  the  spot  where  he  died  during  the  retreat  which  closed 
this  disastrous^  campaign. 

In  this  vicinity  there  is  a  blowing  spring,  which  is  si- 
tuated in  an  excavation  on  the  side  of  a  hill.  The  stream 
of  air  which  issues  from  a  crack  or  crevice  in  the  rock,  is 
very  considerable,  and  sufficiently  powerful  to  extinguish 
a  candle.  By  placing  our  ears  near  to  the  crevice  we  heard, 
very  distinctly,  the  sound  of  water  running  under  ground, 
probably  upon  a  rocky  and  unequal  bed ;  it  runs  out  at  a 
short  distance  lower  down.  This  stream  of  air  is  doubtless 
produced  by  the  same  cause  which  is  made  to  operate  in 
the  construction  of  the  water  blasts,  used  in  metallurgy. 
We  had  no  means  of  collecting  and  examining  the  gas 
which  escapes,  but  we  had  no  reason  to  believe  it  other 
than  atmospheric  air. 

This  section  of  our  route  does  not  offer  to  the  zoologist 
much  subject  of  observation.  The  wild  animals  which 
formerly  roved  over  this  part  of  our  country  have  been 
driven  further  west,  or  completely  cut  oflf  by  the  advance 


SOURCE    OP    ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


31 


irable  pro- 
ether  with 
ench  were 
^d  him  to 
aind  to  re- 
1  repairing 
country  in 
of  timber, 
fine  brook 
le  unfortu- 
aid  for  his 
id,  that  the 
within  two 
lock's  road, 
hich  closed 

hich  is  si- 
^he  stream 
le  rock,  is 
extinguish 
we  heard, 
er  ground, 
IS  out  at  a 
doubtless 
operate  in 
aetallurgy. 
tg  the  gas 
ve  it  other 


'-?& 


of  civilization,  and  the  domestic  animals  which  now  occupy 
their  place,  have  nothing  to  characterize  them.  We  cannot, 
however,  omit  noticing  the  extraordinary  size  and  strength 
of  the  Pennsylvania  waggon  horse,  which  yields  in  these 
particulars  to  but  few  breeds.  There  are  several  appellations 
by  which  the  different  breeds  of  this  useful  animal  are 
distinguished  in  Pennsylvania,  such  as  the  Conestoga,  the 
Chester  line,  &c.  but  these  are  principally  of  a  local  im- 
port The  usual  height  of  farm  and  waggon  horses  is 
about  sixteen  hands  or  five  feet  four  inches,  measured 
according  to  the  usual  custom.  We  were  credibly  informed 
that  horses  seventeen,  seventeen  and  a  half,  and  even 
eighteen  hands  high,  are  by  no  means  rare.  A  few  have  been 
known  to  exceed  that  size,  and  we  have  been  told  that  one, 
the  largest  ever  known  in  the  country,  had  attained  the 
gigantic  size  of  nineteen  hands  or  six  feet  four  inches.  As 
a  proof  of  the  great  strength  which  they  sometimes  attain, 
it  is  said  that  an  experiment  was  once  tried  in  the  city  of 
Lancaster,  which  resulted  in  a  single  horse's  dragging 
around  the  court-house  on  the  bare  pavements,  without  the 
intervention  of  wheels  or  rollers,  two  tons  of  bar  iron,  which 
had  been  bundled  together  for  this  experiment. 

The  town  of  Whseiing  appears  to  be  in  a  very  flourishing 
condition,  and  the  increase  in  its  population  has  been  very 
great,  since  the  completion  of  the  national  road.  Business  has 
taken  a  new  direction ;  instead  of  centering,  as  it  formerly 
did  in  Pittsburg,  it  now  goes  principally  to  Wheeling, 
which  has  the  advantage  of  a  much  more  permanent  navi- 
gation all  the  year  round.  The  population  amounts  at 
present  to  upwards  of  two  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
situation  of  the  town  is  pleasant,  the  river  here  is  about 
live  hundred  yards  wide,  and  there  is  opposite  to  the  town 
'i  large  and  beautiful  island  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile 


SB 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


wide.  The  town  is  divided  into  the  old  and  the  new,  the 
former  is  built  upon  a  nan'ow  bank,  which  extends  between 
the  river  and  the  ridge  of  hills  on  the  eastern  bhore ;  the 
new  town  is  built  »  little  below  the  old,  on  the  river,  and 
has  a  wider  field  to  expand  upon,  owing  to  the  junction 
of  the  lateral  valley  of  Wheeling  creek  with  that  of 
the  river.  We  regretted  to  find  brick  resorted  to  as  a 
building  material,  not  only  in  the  construction  of  private 
houses,  but  even  of  churches  and  other  public  edifices, 
while  a  beautiful  sandstone  admirably  adapted  to  the  pur- 
poses of  architecture,  and  which  might  be  obtained  at  a 
very  low  price,  remains  unwrought. 

The  weather  was  so  unfavourable  during  the  three  days 
which  we  remained  here,  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of 
ascertaining  by  astronomical  observations  the  latitude  and 
longitude  of  this  town. 

In  our  walks  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  are 
covered  with  a  vast  deposit  of  alluvium,  and  which  present 
in  this  vicinity  at  least,  no  section  of  rocks,  we  were  struck 
with  the  immense  numberof  pebbles  partaking  of  the  nature 
of  primitive  rocks,  which  are  strewed  along  the  surface  of 
the  ground.  They  are  not,  it  is  true,  of  a  large  size,  and 
their  smooth  and  rounded  surfaces  attest  that  they  have 
travelled  far  from  their  native  sites.  In  examining  our 
imperfect  geological  maps  to  endeavour  to  assign  to  them 
an  origin,  we  feel  at  a  loss  to  decide  whence  they  may  have 
been  brought  We  find  no  primitive  formations  nearer 
than  those  on  the  north  side  of  our  great  lakes,  which, 
from  the  aspect  of  the  country,  may  be  supposed  to  have 
given  rise  by  their  destruction  to  these  extensive  alluvia 
of  primitive  debris.  Among  these  pebbles,  chiefly  of  gra- 
nite, gneiss,  sienite,  &c.  we  observed  a  rock  formed  of  feld- 
spar, quartz,  and  handsome  crystals  of  translucent  garnets. 


m 


^« 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PETER  S  RIVEH. 


33 


which  appear  to  be  very  abundantly  disseminated  through- 
out the  rock.* 

There  is  in  Wheeling  a  glasshouse,  which  we  visited  ; 
the  glass  made  there  is  very  good  ;  the  sand  which  they  use 
is  brought  down  from  the  banks  of  the  Alleghany,  and 
appears  to  consist  of  silex  nearly  pure ;  the  alkali  added  is 
principally  unwashed  ashes.  We  were  somewhat  surprised 
at  hearing,  that  the  clay  used  in  the  manufacture  of  their 
crucibles  was  brought  from  Germany  ;  indeed  we  consi- 
der this  very  improbable,  as  a  clay  very  well  adapted 
to  this  purpose  is  found  in  many  parts  of  the  country. 
The  atmosphere  in  the  glasshouse  was  extremely  foul, 
owing  to  the  sulphurous  vapour  disengaged  from  the  coal. 

The  hills  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  are  covered 
with  masses  of  clay,  sand,  &c.  which,  as  soon  as  they  be- 
come penetrated  with  moisture,  slide  along  the  upper  sur- 
face of  the  rocks,  even  where  their  inclination  is  but  small. 
This  feature  is  observable  only  on  the  northern  slopes,  the 
southern  are  much  more  abrupt.  We  were  at  first  induc- 
ed to  attribute  it  to  the  effect  of  the  winter  frosts,  but 
Colonel  M'Ree,  who  had  examined  its  appearance  with 
care,  attributes  it  principally  to  the  action  of  moisture. 

•On  the  banks  of  the  river  there  were  but  few  shells,  and  these 
were  referrible  principally  to  the  Unio  praelongus,  (Barnes,)  and  to 
the  Unio  crassus,  and  Unio  purpureas  of  Say.  Among  tlie  land  uni- 
valves, Mr.  Say  observed  the  following  shells,  which  had  been  previ- 
ously described  by  him ;  viz.  the  Helix  albolabris.  Helix  thyroidea. 
Helix  altemata,  Helix  palliata,  Helix  profunda.  Helix  tridentata.  Helix 
solitaria, Helix  inurnata.  (Vide Nicholson's Cyclopocdia,  Amer.  Ed.  and 
Journal  of  the  Acacl.  Nat  Sci.  of  Philadelphia,  Vols.  1  and  ?.) 

Vol.  r.  s» 


\ 


94 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


CHAPTER  II. 

Zanesville.   Salt  and  Iron  Works.    Columbus.   Piqua. 
Indian  Antiquities.     Ohio  Canals.    Fort  Wayne. 


1 1 


':. 


HAVING  spent  three  days  in  Wheeling,  and  changed 
our  mode  of  conveyance,  in  order  to  accommodate  our- 
selves to  the  state  of  the  roads,  rendered  almost  impassable 
for  carriages  by  the  unusual  quantity  of  rain  which  had 
fallen  this  spring,  we  crossed  the  Ohio  in  a  team-boat,  pro- 
pelled by  two  horses.  The  river  is  there  divided  into  two 
branches  by  the  aforementioned  island,  which  is  about 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide ;  over  the  first  branch  of  the 
river  a  team-boat  plies  constantly,  and  corresponds  with  a 
common  ferry  boat  on  the  other  branch.  The  Ohio  road 
is  carried  along  the  valley  of  a  rivulet  called  Indian 
Wheeling,  and  is  rendered  extremely  unpleasant  to  tra- 
vel, by  the  frequent  crossings  of  that  brook.  It  was  how- 
ever so  bad  at  that  season  of  the  year,  that  many  preferred 
travelling  up  the  bed  of  the  creek  to  following  the  road. 
It  has  been  observed  by  all  travellers,  that  the  Ohio  runs 
in  a  valley,  the  average  breadth  of  which  does  not  exceed 
a  mile  and  a  half,  the  sides  being  lined  by  ranges  of  hills, 
which  are  generally  termed  the  River  Mountains ;  these 
vary  considerably  in  height,  generally  rani^ng  between 
three  hundred  and  five  hundred  feet  After  these  are 
ascended,  the  country  is  rough,  but  the  hills  compara- 
tively are  small.  These  are,  however,  very  steep,  probably 


% 


SOITRCE   OP   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


35' 


ovving  to  the  nature  of  the  stratification,  which  is  horizon- 
tal throughout  the  country ;  for  it  is  a  fact,  which  general 
observation  confirms,  that  those  hills,  which  are  composed 
of  rocks  horizontally  stratified,  are  generally  steepest  in 
their  ascents,  and  present  a  tabular  form  at  their  summit 
The  coal  formation  of  Wheeling  is  very  extensive ;  the 
exact  limits  of  this  coal  basin  have  not  yet  been  traced  with 
accuracy,  but  as  far  as  we  are  able  to  judge  from  the  infor- 
mation obtained  upon  a  country  as  yet  but  thinly  settled, 
and  in  which  natural  science  has  been  little  attended  to, 
it  would  appear  that  it  probably  reaches  as  far  to  the 
north-east  as  Lawrenceville,  in  Tioga  County,  Pennsylva- 
nia, and  perhaps  may  be  considered  as  connected  with 
that  lately  discovered  in  Tioga  County,  (New  York,)  near 
the  head  of  Seneca  Lake.  The  coal  found  at  that  place 
is,  as  we  were  informed,  abundant,  of  an  excellent  qua- 
lity, and  well  characterised  as  bituminous.  The  eastern 
limit  may  be  taken  to  be  formed  by  the  main  ridge  of 
the  Alleghany  mountains.  Upon  its  western  and  south- 
ern limits  we  are  not  prepared  to  decide,  but  it  is  proba- 
ble that  its  breadth  bears  but  a  small  proportion  to  its 
length. 

At  Zanesville  we  had  an  opportunity  to  observe  the 
geological  features  of  the  country  to  advantage.  The  bed 
of  the  Muskingum  is  deeply  incased,  and  the  stratification 
is  exposed  for  a  considerable  distance.  It  there  presents 
the  same  features  as  in  the  vicinity  of  Wheeling,  but  the 
order  of  stratification  and  the  character  of  the  rocks  are 
somewhat  difiierent. 

A  very  fine  break  displays  the  following  section :  com- 
mencing at  the  lowest  rocks,  there  is  a  sandstone  of  a  toler- 
ably coarse  grain,  filled  with  remains  of  vegetable  sub- 
stances converted  into  charcoal,  in  some  cases  partjiking  of 


t 


lii 


liffl 


:r.:i 


I    1 

i' 
1  ■,  .tl 

i 
t 


I' 


9. 


36 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


a  bituminous  character,  so  that  a  gradual  and  invisil .  ,  but 
certain,  transition  from  the  charcoal  to  coal  manifestly  takes 
place.  These  remains  are,  however,  as  far  as  we  saw  them, 
so  much  impaired  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  assign  to 
them  any  particular  place  in  fossil  botany,  though  of  their 
vegetable  origin  no  doubt  can  exist.  In  remarking  upon 
their  position,  we  ascertained,  that  they  generally  lay  in 
the  direction  of  the  stratification,  very  seldom  intersecting 
it.  Besides  fragments  of  charcoal  and  coal,  we  found  im- 
pressions of  plants,  some  of  which  were  tolerably  well  cha- 
racterised. In  one  instance  9i  phyllolithos,  (Martin,)  was 
collected  in  a  very  good  state  of  preservation. 

The  sandstone  in  a  few  cases  assumes  a  somewhat  mi- 
caceous appeararce,  consequently  a  more  slaty  structure, 
and  then  resembles  that  hereafter  to  be  noticed.  The  rock 
immediately  superincumbent  is  presumed  to  be  a  bed  of 
clay-slate  ;  though  the  junction  being  concealed  and  the  re- 
lative positions  of  the  rock  being  judged  of  only  by  the 
general  level  of  the  country,  it  was  not  in  our  power  to  de- 
cide in  a  positive  manner  whether  or  not  there  were  any 
other  strata  interposed  between  the  two. 

This  slate-clay  is  very  brittle,  and  easily  divisible  ;  on 
exposure  to  the  atmosphere  it  readily  crumbles,  and  lays 
open  to  view  concentric  globules  of  argillaceous  carbonate 
of  iron,  in  every  respect  similar  to  those  observed  in  other 
coal  formations. 

The  iron  ore  is  found  in  rounded  or  oval  masses,  some- 
what flattened  in  the  direction  of  the  stratification ;  it  ap- 
pears to  be  quite  abundant,  and,  we  doubt  not,  if  made  the 
object  of  an  exploration,  would  be  found  sufficiently  so  to 
justify  the  erection  of  iron  works  on  a  large  scale. 

Resting  upon  the  slate-clay,  we  observed  a  bed  seve- 
ral feet  in  thickness,  composed  of  a  dark  gray  limestone 


SOURCE  OP   ST.    PETER'S   RIVER. 


37 


risil ,  ,  but 
estly  takes 
saw  them, 
I  assign  to 
gh  of  their 
king  upon 
illy  lay  in 
ntersecting 
;  found  im- 
ly  well  cha- 
artin,)  was 

lewhat  mi- 
1  structure, 
I.  The  rock 
)e  a  bed  of 
I  and  the  re- 
)nly  by  the 
)Ower  to  de- 
were  any 

[visible ;  on 
s,  and  lays 
is  carbonate 
ved  in  other 

asses,  some- 

tion ;  it  ap- 

if  made  the 

jiently  so  to 

ale. 

a  bed  seve- 

y  limestone 


vcrj-  compact  in  texture,  but  presenting  at  the  same  time 
a  slaty  structure,  and  divisible  in  layers  parallel  to  the  stra- 
tification. This  limestone  is  replete  with  organic  remains, 
chiefly  belonging  to  the  Encrinite,  Terebratula,  Productus, 
&c.  among  which  wc  also  found  a  shell  belonging  to  the 
genus  Trochus  or  Turbo.  These  shells  are  very  abundant 
in  the  rock ;  tlicy  are  found,  as  far  as  we  could  judge,  irre- 
gularly disseminated,  and  adhering  so  closely  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  separate  them,  or  to  divide  the  mass  into  speci- 
mens which  shall  exhibit  their  characters  uninjured;  but 
being  for  the  most  part  formed  of  calcspar,  they  resist  de- 
composition better  than  the  compact  limestone  in  which 
they  are  imbedded,  and  from  this  circumstance  the  best 
specimens  are  found  protruding  from  the  exposed  surfaces 
of  the  rock. 

This  bed  offered  great  interest  to  the  two  naturalists  of 
the  expedition,  the  one  as  zoologist,  the  other  as  geologist. 
Mr.  Say  thought  he  beheld  in  it  the  confirmation  of  an 
opinion  which  he  had  long  entertained,  that,  of  all  fossils, 
the  Encrinus  is  that  which  resists  decomposition  best. 
Without  pretending  to  dispute  the  correctness  of  the  ob- 
servation, as  a  general  one,  Mr.  Keating  thought  that  the 
present  instance  did  not  confirm  it,  and  that  there  were 
many  spots  where  the  bivalves,  (Terebratula  and  Productus,) 
indicated  a  greater  degree  of  hardness  and  solidity,  by  re- 
sisting the  effects  of  the  weather  better  than  the  Encrini. 
This  we  state  as  being  perhaps  the  only  time  when  the 
two  naturalists  differed  in  their  observation  of  the  same 
fact,  when  coming  under  the  notice  of  both. 

Upon  this  limestone  lay  a  bed  of  coal,  of  about  two  feet 
in  thickness,  and  apparently  of  a  very  good  quality;  some 
works  of  no  great  amount  were  undertaken  here  not  long 
since,  which  are  unattended  to  at  present.    We  were  told, 


38 


EXPEDITION   TO  THE 


1 1 


however,  that  in  other  parts  of  the  country  this  coal  is 
worked  to  advantage.  It  is  the  usual  fuel  in  the  town,  be- 
ing worth  from  four  to  six  cents  per  bushel. 

It  is  covered  by  a  bed  of  slaty  rock,  which  in  some  cases 
assumes  a  decided  appearance  of  slate-clay,  and  in  other 
points  runs  into  a  micaceous  sandstone,  not  unlike  the  mi- 
caceous parts  of  that  described  as  the  lowest  stratum  visible 
in  this  vicinity ;  like  the  former  it  is  filled  with  vegetable 
impressions  of  a  very  undecided  character. 

Over  this  slaty  rock  another  bed  of  limestone  occurs,  the 
characters  of  which,  resembling  in  every  respect  those  of 
the  stratum  under  the  coal,  require  no  further  description. 
The  superior  bed,  as  well  as  the  inferior  one,  is  rich  in  im- 
pressions of  Encrinites,  Terebratula,  Productus,  &c.  which 
shells  retain  their  pearly  lustre,  and  even  in  some  cases 
their  animal  matter. 

The  limestone  is  covered  with  a  fine  vegetable  mould, 
and  affords  a  rich  soil,  not  inferior  to  any  of  the  limestone 
bottoms  of  Pennsylvania.  We  had  no  means  of  ascertain- 
ing  what  rocks  lay  below  the  first  bed  of  sandstone  ob- 
served in  this  break,  but  from  what  we  could  discover  in 
the  bed  of  the  canal  then  digging  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  town,  we  believe  it  to  rest  upon  a  sandstone  in  every 
respect  similar  to  that  described  in  the  first  chapter  as  ex- 
isting in  the  neighbourhood  of  Wheeling,  and  we  have 
every  reason  to  believe  that  the  same  alternation  of  strata 
which  exists  there,  would  be  found  in  like  manner  here, 
and  that  if  shafts  were  sunk,  inferior  strata  of  cqal  might 
be  reached. 

Zanesville  is  a  pleasant  and  flourishing  town,  situated 
at  the  junction  of  the  Licking  creek  and  Muskingum, 
about  ninety  miles  above  the  confluence  of  the  Muskingum 
and  Ohio.   As  a  manufacturing  town  it  possesses  great  ad- 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETE«  S    RIVER. 


39 


lis  coal  is 
1  town,  be- 
some  cases 
d  in  other 
ke  the  mi- 
tum  visible 
1  vegetable 

occurs,  the 
ct  those  of 
lescription. 
rich  in  im- 
1,  &c.  which 
some  cases 

ible  mould, 
e  limestone 
if  ascertain- 
idstone  ob- 
discover  in 
)Ourhood  of 
e  in  every 
ipter  as  ex- 
id  we  have 
3n  of  strata 
anner  here, 
cqal  might 

vn,  situated 
Muskingum, 
Vluskingum 
es  great  ad- 


vantages. A  dam  built  across  the  two  streams,  a  short  dis- 
tance above  their  junction,  gives  it  a  command  of  water 
power  which  is  calculated  to  set  in  motion  very  extensive 
mills  and  manufactories.  It  was  the  observation  of  these 
natural  advantages,  that  induced  the  late  Mr.  Zane*  to  fix 
upon  it  as  a  seat  for  a  town ;  the  rapid  growth  of  the  place 
has  raised  it  to  a  rank  among  the  most  thriving  towns  in 
the  state  of  Ohio.  A  number  of  manufactories  have  al- 
ready been  established  there,  which  appear  to  be  conducted 
with  spirit  and  enterprize ;  among  these  a  manufactory  of 
cut  nails  belonging  to  Mr.  Reeves  deserves  notice.  The  iron 
for  the  manufactory  is  prepared  by  him  from  the  pigs  by 
the  process  of  puddling  and  rolling.  Glasshouses,  in  which 
both  green  and  white  glass  are  made,  exist  there ;  it  is  said 
that  the  clay  from  which  they  make  their  crucibles,  and  which 
is  found  at  a  short  distance  from  the  town,  is  excellent. 
Within  four  miles  of  Zanesville, on  "Licking  creek,"  there 
is  a  furnace  at  which  an  hydrated  oxide  of  iron  is  worked. 
The  difference  in  the  price  between  cast  iron  and  pigs  is 
so  great  as  to  enable  them  to  convert  the  whole  of  their 
produce  into  hollow  ware,  which  is  readily  disposed  of  at 

•  A  few  days  before  our  arrival  at  Wheeling,  Mr.  Zane,  the  founder 
of  Zanesville,  disd  in  that  place.  This  roan  was  extensively  known  as 
having  been  one  of  the  first  settlers  in  that  state.  He  was  one  of  tliose 
pioneers  of  civilization,  of  which  the  history  of  our  western  states 
presents  us  so  many  instances,  men  equally  distinguished  by  a  daunt- 
less courage,  an  imwearied  perseverance,  and  by  the  success  with 
which  they  resisted  the  aggressions  of  the  aborigines,  who  frequently 
attempted,  but  in  vain,  to  oppose  those,  whom  they,  perhaps  very 
justly,  considered  as  trespassers  upon  the  soil  which  they  had  inherit- 
ed from  their  fathers,  ytr.  Zane's  character  was  highly  respectable, 
and  among  tiie  many  anecdotes  still  current  in  Ohio,  many  of  which 
attest  his  courage,  there  are  none  but  such  as  are  reputable  to  him 
as  a  man  of  feeling. 


40 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


11" 


II   ! 


'    •!" 


seventy  dollars,  while  the  pigs  command  only  thirty  dol- 
lars a  ton.     Bar  iroi:,  and  that  not  of  the  best  quality,  is 
sold  for  one  hundred  axid  twcr  y-five  dollars.     The  little 
iron,  refined  in  this  vicinity,  is  generally  of  an  inferior 
character.     The  experiment  of  manufacturing  the  iron  by 
rolling,  as  is  done  at  Reeves'  establishment,  has  not  been 
attended  with  sufficient  success  to  lead  to  a  more  general 
introduction  of  this  process.     We  conversed  with  several 
intelligent  iron  masters  on  the  subject,  with  a  view  to 
obtain  accurate  information  on  the  advantages  of  this  me- 
thod over  that  of  hammering;   the  result  of  which  was, 
that  the  product  obtained  from  rollers  was  not  so  uniformly 
good  as  that  obtained  by  hammering,  which,  in  the  opinion 
of  our  informants,  was  due  rather  to  the  defect  of  the  work- 
men than  of  the  process.     The  management  of  rollers  is 
probably  not  well  understood  by  them.  We  have  taken  oc- 
casion to  record  this  information,  because  it  appears  to  us  that 
every  thing  that  can  throw  light  upon  the  manufacture  of 
iron,  is  interesting.     We  consider  the  question  of  the  pro- 
priety of  using  rollers,  as  a  highly  important  one,  and  as  OFie 
not  yet  settled ;  we  know  that  a  strong  prejudice  exists  in 
this  country  against  the  rolled  iron ;  and  that  the  results  of 
experiments  made  in  Pennsylvania,  are  rather  unfavour- 
able }  but  we  likewise  know,  that  the  process  is  very  ex- 
tensively carried  on  in  England,  where  it  has  met  with  a 
decided  preference  in  many  instances ;  and  the  economy 
which  attends  it,  must  make  it  very  desirable  that  it  should 
prove  successful.     Experience  shows  that  all  innovations 
in  the  arts  meet  with  objections ;  and  that  the  failure  of 
those,  who  attempt  to  repeat  them  without  proper  care  or 
knowledge,  is  not  unfrequently  attributed  to  the  imper- 
fections of  the  process,  instead  of  being  charged  to  the  in- 
experience of  the  operators. 


■in 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  Peter's  river. 


41 


thirty  doK 
quality,  is 

The  little 
an  inferior 
the  iron  by 
s  not  been 
are  general 
ath  several 

a  view  to 
of  this  me- 
vvhich  was, 

0  uniformly 
the  opinion 

ofthework- 
)f  rollers  is 
ve  taken  oc- 
ars  to  us  that 
lufacture  of 

1  of  the  pro- 
3,  and  as  one 
ice  exists  in 
he  results  of 
r  unfavour- 
is  very  ex- 
met  with  a 
le  economy 
lat  it  should 
innovations 
e  failure  of 
)per  care  or 

the  imper- 
d  to  the  in- 


>3f 


It  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that  with  the  admitted  supe- 
riority of  the  British  over  A'xierican  castings,  no  attempts 
have  been  made  to  work  the  same  ore  and  by  mea'.»s  of  the 
same  fuel  which  have  proved  so  successful  when  used  abroad. 
It  is  a  truth  with  which  every  person  who  feels  an  interest 
on  this  subject,  is  conversant,  that  the  clay  iron  stone  is  the 
principal  ore  used  in  England ;  that  it  is  smelted  by  means 
ofcoak;  tliatthe  products  are  extremely  advantageous;  that 
results  equally  favourable,  if  not  more  so,  have  been  obtain- 
ed in  Silesia  from  the  same  ores ;  that  experiments  which 
have  been  made  on  the  same  s>  ibject  in  France,  have  been 
attended  with  the  happiest  results.  We  may  therefore  won- 
der, that  so  much  of  this  valuable  ore  is  allowed  to  remain 
unwrought  in  the  midst  of  the  very  fuel  which  ought  to 
be  used  to  smelt  it ;  and  that  a  preference  should  be  given 
to  the  hydrates  and  oxides  of  iron,  worked  with  charcoal, 
very  frequently  with  great  disadvantage. 

The  furnace  which  we  visited  near  Zanesville,  was 
built  in  1809,  and  was,  as  we  were  told,  the  first  erected  in 
the  state  of  Ohio ;  its  inside  is  lined  with  fire-bricks  made 
of  the  clay  which  is  used  for  crucibles  in  the  glasshouse, 
and  the  proprietors  informed  us  that  it  was  their  intention 
to  make  large  bricks  of  the  same  materials  for  their  hearths, 
as  all  the  stones  they  had  heretofore  used  had  proved  de- 
fective, and  had  obliged  them  to  suspend  their  operations 
under  a  year's  blast,  at  a  time  when  the  rest  of  the  fur- 
nace was  in  a  very  sound  state.  This  experiment,  if  suc- 
cessful, will  be  attended  with  great  advantages  to  the  coun- 
try. The  clay  has  been  analysed  in  Mr.  Keating's  labora- 
tory in  the  University  of  Pennsylvania,  and  found  to  con- 
tain about  seventy-two  per  cent  of  silex,  with  alumine, 
little  or  no  lime,  and  no  metallic  oxide. 

The  iron  ore  used  here  is  an  hydrated  oxide,  which 

Vol.  I.  6 


48 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


i,i  I 


'"ill: 


III' 


yields  in  castings  about  thirty-three  per  cent.     It  smelts 
very  readily  of  itself,  requiring  but  a  slight  addition  of  about 
three  percent,  of  limestone.  Among  the  great  improvements 
which  have  been  made  at  this  place,  is  the  connexion,  by 
means  of  a  canal  with  locks,  between  the  upper  and  lower 
level  of  the  Muskingum.     The  company  who  erected  the 
dam,  were  bound  by  their  charter  to  keep  a  lock  naviga- 
tion in  repair^  and  their  improvements,  which  have  re- 
moved all  obstacles  to  the  navigation,  will  doubtless  prove 
very  valuable,  as  they  have  afforded  them  a  very  extensive 
water-power.  Salt  was  some  time  since  obtained  at  Zancs- 
ville,  and  all  along  the  Muskingum ;  but  of  late  the  works 
here  have  been  abandoned,  the  springs  being  too  weak.  It 
appears  that  those  below  are  very  productive;  it  is  calculated 
that  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  from  these  will  generally 
yield  about  a  bushel  of  salt  weighing  fifty  pounds  •,  hence  the 
water  must  contain  upwards  of  six  per  cent,  of  salt     The 
establishments,  as  the j' are  generally  made  in  this  country, 
contain  twenty  kettles  of  the  capacity  of  ninety  gallons 
each,  costing  together  about  seven  hundred  dollars;  of 
these  kettles  or  pans,  fourteen  are  used  for  evaporating  and 
six  for  crystallizing  the  salt  During  the  evaporation,  a  se- 
diment is  formed,  which  is  supposed  by  some  to  consist  of 
loam  and  lime;  no  experiments  have  as  yet  been  made 
upon  it  to  ascertain  its  nature.     No  use  has  ever  been  made 
of  it,  but  it  would  doubtless  prove  very  valuable  in  agri- 
culture. The  depth  to  which  they  bore  varies  much,  it  is  ge- 
nerally about  two  hundred  feet.     In  some  cases  the  auger 
holes,  which  are  about  three  inches  in  diameter,  have  been 
s*unk  to  seven  hundred  feet  in  depth.  The  expense  of  course 
varies  according  to  the  depth,  but  the  work  is  generally  un- 
dertaken at  from  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  to  two  dollars 
per  foot.    In  one  instance,  where  the  boring  extended  to 


!,„.  „   I' 


SOURCE    OP   ST.   PETER'S    RIVER. 


43 


It  smelts 
tion  of  about 
iprovements 
mnexion,  by 
r  and  lower 
I  erected  the 
lock  naviga- 
ich  have  re- 
abtless  prove 
jry  extensive 
led  at  Zancs- 
te  the  works 
;  too  weak.  It 
:  is  calculated 
irill  generally 
Is ;  hence  the. 
of  salt     The 
this  country, 
linety  gallons 
d  dollars;  of 
aporating  and 
x)ration,  a  se- 
3  to  consist  of 
;t  been  made 
er  been  made 
uable  in  agri- 
much,  itisge- 
ises  the  auger 
ter,  have  been 
ense  of  course 
generally  un- 
0  two  dollars 
;  extended  to 


upwards  of  one  hundred  feet,  it  was  performed  for  seventy- 
five  cents  per  foot.  The  whole  capital  required  to  put  up 
salt  works  in  '.lis  neighbourhood,  is  estimated  at  four 
thousand  five  hundred  dollars;  and  when  the  work  is  pru- 
dently conducted,  the  business  is  considered  very  good; 
though  the  price  of  salt  is  at  present  low. 

It  was  in  boring  for  coal,  a  few  years  since,  that  a  de- 
ception was  practised,  which  made  considerable  noise  in 
the  country,  and  produced  much  mischief  in  Zanesvilleand 
its  vicinity.  It  appears  well  ascertained,  at  present,  that 
the  silver,  said  to  have  been  found  in  one  of  the  auger 
holes  bored  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  had  been  thrown  in 
by  some  evil-minded  persons.  The  pretended  discovery 
induced  many  to  speculate  largely  upon  the  mine,  before 
the  detection  of  the  plot,  whence  they  incurred  great  losses; 
this  event  occurred  in  the  year  1819. 

The  banks  of  the  river  le  strewed  with  vast  numbers  of 
pebbles,  much  rolled,  and  evidently  carried  from  a  great  dis- 
tance. They  consist  principally  of  quartz,  in  some  cases  hya- 
line, in  others  partaking  of  the  nature  of  jasper,  agate,  semi- 
opal,  &c.  fragments  of  granitic  and  amphibolic  rocks  are  also 
to  be  met  with  here  and  there.  Specimens  of  petrified  Be- 
tipore  and  Fuvosites  striata^  Say,  and  of  a  new  genus  of  the 
Polypiers  lamelliferes  of  Lamarck,  Chonemblemaf  Say,* 
were  also  observed  on  the  shore.  These  petrifactions  are 
siliceous  and  rolled,  and  bear  the  appeai'ance  of  having  been 
removed  far  from  their  original  locality.  Specimens  of  the 
Fuvosites  striata  are  also  common  in  this  vicinity. 

We  observed  near  the  bank  of  the  river  a  considerable 
accumulation  of  common  flint,  (quartz  silex,)  which  con- 
sisted of  irregularly  shaped  blocks  of  silex,  apparently  no- 


•  Appendix,  I.  A. 


44 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


ri 


dulcs,  which  had  been  imbedded  in  a  rock,  in  the  manner 
in  which  the  same  substance  lies  in  the  chalk  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Paris;  its  colour  is  black.  Upon  inquiry  we 
were  informed,  that  these  blocks  are  gathered  from  the 
fields,  where  they  are  found  loose  and  scattered;  they  do 
not  carry  with  them  the  appearance  of  much  attrition.  They 
are  used  in  Sae  glasshouses  in  the  preparation  of  fine  white 
glass. 

Among  the  features  which  strike  the  traveller,  as  he 
contemplates  the  scenery  of  the  Muskingum,  none  contri- 
butes more  to  give  a  character  of  originality  to  the  land- 
scape, than  a  rude  bridge  erect-id  across  the  river,  in  which 
the  archil'  ct  has  contrived  to  connect  three  forks  or  arms, 
one  of  Vvnich  reaches  to  the  cape  formed  by  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Muskingum  and  Licking  creekf  while  the 
other  two  establish  a  connexion  between  the  opposite  banks 
of  the  Muskingum,  below  the  junction  of  the  two  streams. 
This  presents  an  uncouth  mass,  contrasting  well  with  the 
magnificence  of  the  scenery.  The  bridge  appears  destitute 
of  solidiiy,  and  will  probably  be  soon  replaced  by  a  more 
elegant  and  permanent  one.  It  is  thus  that  the  rude  works 
of  the  first  st  ttlers  in  the  west  aru  disappearing  gradually, 
and  making  way  for  the  more  improved  structures  of  civi- 
lized life. 

Having  remained  half  a  day  in  Zanesville,  we  continued 
our  journey  towards  Columbus,  which  we  reached  on  the 
19th.  The  route  between  these  two  places  offered  us  but 
little  interest.  To  the  mineralogist  it  presents  none  at  all, 
being  level,  flat,  and  covered  with  an  alluvium.  We  were 
informed  that  coal  had  been  observed  in  many  places, 
but  in  no  instance  of  a  quality  to  warrant  its  extraction  ; 
and  that  no  where  had  it  been  worked  beyond  five  miles 
west  of  the  Muskingum.    Our  road,  which  led  us  through 


the  manner 
of  the  neigh- 
i  inquiry  we 
ed  from  the 
•ed;  they  do 
rition.  They 
of  fine  white 

ireller,  as  he 

none  contri- 

to  the  land- 

ver,  in  which 

)rks  or  arms, 

by  the  junc- 

r,   while    the 

pposite  banks 

two  streams. 

ell  with  the 

ars  destitute 

by  a  more 

rude  works 

g  gradually, 

ures  of  civi- 

e  continued 
ched  on  the 
'ered  us  but 

none  at  all, 

,  We  were 
lany  places, 

extraction ; 
d  five  miles 
1  us  through 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETEH*S    RIVEB. 


45 


••Ms 


the  valley  of  Licking  creek,  was  very  even.  The  rocks 
were  always  concealed  from  view,  except  in  one  or  two 
places,  where  abrupt  cliffs  rose  at  too  great  a  distance  from 
the  road,  to  permit  us  to  decide  upon  their  nature ;  but  their 
general  aspect  appeared  to  connect  them  with  those  ob- 
served in  the  vicinity  of  Zanesville. 

Our  attention  was,  however,  soon  directed  in  another 
channel.  The  country  about  the  Muskingum  appears  to 
have  been  at  a  former  period  the  seat  of  a  very  extensive 
Aboriginal  population.  Every  where  do  we  observe  in 
this  valley,  remains  of  works  which  attest,  at  the  same 
time,  the  number,  the  genius,  and  the  perseverance  of 
those  departed  nations.  Their  works  have  survived  the 
lapse  of  ages ;  but  the  spirit  which  prompted  them  has  dis- 
appeared. We  wander  over  the  face  of  the  country; 
wherever  we  go,  we  mark  th^  monuments  which  they  have 
erected;  we  would  interrogate  them  as  to  the  authors  of 
these  mighty  works,  but  no  voice  replies  to  ours  save  that  of 
the  echo.  The  mind  seeks  in  vain  for  some  clew  to  assist 
it  in  unravelling  the  mystery.  Was  their  industry  stimulated 
by  the  desire  of  protecting  themselves  against  the  in- 
roads of  invaders,  or  were  they  themselves  the  trespassers  ? 
did  they  migrate  to  this  spot,  and  if  so,  whence  came  they  ? 
who  were  they  ?  where  went  they  ?  and  wherefore  came 
they  here?  Their  works  L.ive  been  torn  open;  they  have 
been  searched  into,  but  all  in  vain.  The  mound  is  now 
levelled  with  the  sod  of  the  valley ;  the  accumulated  earth 
which  was  perhaps  collected  from  a  distance  into  one  im- 
mense mass  to  erect  a  monument  deemed  indestructible,  over 
the  remains  ofsome  western  Pharoah,  is  now  scattered  over 
the  ground  so  that  its  concealed  treasure  Hiiy  be  brought 
to  light.  Every  bone  is  accurately  examined,  every  piece 
of  metal  or  fragment  of  broken  pottery  is  curiously  studied. 


u  i><: 


46 


EXPEDITION   TO   TH£ 


i  jliiij 


hiii^: 


pir 


still  no  light  has  as  yet  been  thrown  upon  the  name,  and 
date,  of  the  once  populous  nation  which  formerly  flourish- 
ed on  the  banks  of  the  numerous  tributary  streams  of  the 
Ohio. 

Such  were  the  reflexions  suggested  to  us  by  our  visit  to 
the  numerous  mounds  and  Indian  works  which  abound  in 
this  part  of  the  country,  the  first  of  which  we  observed  in 
the  small  village  of  Irville,  situated  eleven  miles  west  of 
Zanesville.  It  has  been  opened,  and  pis  usual,  it  has  3nelded 
bones.     This  mound  was  about  fifteen  feet  in  diameter  and 
four  and   a  half  in  height ;   it  appears  to  have  had  an 
elliptic  basis.   Our  guide  told  us,  that  he  was  present  at  the 
opening  of  it,  and  that  there  were  a  number  of  human 
bones,  and  among  others,  a  tolerably  entire  skeleton  which 
laid  with  its  head  to  the  north-west ;  the  arms  were  thrown 
back  over  the  head.    Besides  the  bones,  there  were  nume- 
rous spear  and  arrow  points,  and  of  the  latter,  we  picked 
up  one  on  the  spot  There  was  also  a  plate  of  copper  of  the 
length  of  the  hand,  and  from  five  to  six  inches  in  width,  it 
was  rolled  up  at  the  sides,  and  had  two  holes  near  the  cen- 
tre ;  its  weight,  we  were  told,  might  have  been  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound,  but  was  probably  heavier ;  for  it  must  have 
been  very  thin,  if,  with  those  dimensio'  3,  it  weighed  so 
little.    What  could  have  been  the  use  of  it,  except  as  an 
ornament,  was  not  determined ;  indeed,  the  inhabitants  of 
that  part  of  the  country  are  so  much  accustomed  to  dig  up 
bones,  and  remains  of  the  Aborigines,  that  they  are  very 
careless  about  observing  or  recording  the  objects  found, 
and  the  circumstances  under  which  they  were  discovered. 
We  were  told  that  pieces  of  copper,  and  even  of  brasSf  had 
been  frequently  collected.    The  copper  may  easily  be  ac- 
counted for,  without  a  reference  to  a  higher  degree  of 
civilization,  or  to  an  intercourse  with  nations  more  ad- 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


47 


tanced  in  the  arts.  The  exisccnce  of  native  copper  strewed 
upon  the  surface  of  the  ground  in  many  places,  will  easily 
account  for  the  circumstance  of  its  being  used  by  the  na- 
tives as  an  ornament,  in  the  same  manner  that  the  Copper 
Indians  of  the  north  have  been  known,  from  the  earliest 
days  of  their  discovery  by  the  whites,  to  adorn  their  per- 
sons with  it,  but  we  cannot  account  for  the  discovery  of 
ornaments  of  bras5,  unless  we  admit  an  intercourse  with  na- 
tions that  had  advanced  in  civilization.  The  existence 
therefore  of  fragments  of  this  alloy  in  mounds,  appears  to 
us  doubtful ;  for  if  true,  the  Indians  who  constructed  them 
must  have  beep  much  more  refined  than  we  can  suppose 
they  were ;  or  they  must  have  had  intercourse  with  civil- 
ized nations.  The  erection  of  these  mounds,  which  ap- 
pear to  be  in  a  great  measure  contemporary,  was  cer- 
tainly much  anterior  to  the  discovery  of  this  continent  in 
the  fifteenth  century ;  and  therefore  it  is  not  from  Europeans 
that  these  pieces  of  brass  were  obtained ;  if  again,  we  re- 
peat it,  they  have  been  found  interred  in  these  works. 

Besides  this  mound,  there  are  many  others  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  Irville,  some  of  which  have  very  great  di- 
mensions; we  observed  one,  near  the  road,  which  had  been 
but  recently  excavated  at  its  summit ;  it  was  perhaps  about 
thirty-five  or  forty  feet  high.  These  mounds  were  for  the 
most  part  overgrown  with  bushes ;  we  could  discover  no 
order  or  plan  in  their  relative  positions,  and  from  the  scat- 
tered and  irregular  manner  in  which  they  lie,  it  does 
not  appear  that  they  were  intended  to  be  connected 
with  any  work  of  defence ;  it  is  more  probable,  that  they 
were  erected  as  mausoleums  over  the  remains  of  the  dead, 
and  that  the  difference  in  their  size  was  intended  to  convey 
an  idea  of  difference  in  the  relative  importance  of  those, 
whose  bones  they  covered.  We  were  informed  that  this 
valley   and  the  neighbouring  hills  abound   in  excava- 


48 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


tions  resembling  wells ;  we  met  with  none  of  these ;  they 
are  said  to  be  very  numerous,  and  are  generally  attributed 
to  the  first  French  adventurers,  who  being  constantly  in- 
tent upon  the  search  of  the  precious  metals,  commenced 
digging  wherever  they  observed  a  favourable  indication ; 
not  having  seen  any  of  these,  we  could  not  pretend  to  ex- 
press an  opinion  upon  their  origin,  but  Trom  the  number  in 
which  they  are  represented  to  be,  as  well  as  from  their  di- 
mensions, they  appear  to  us  far  exceeding   Jie  abilities  of 
those  to  whom  they  are  attributed ;  and  to  have  required 
a  much  more  numerous  and  permanent  population  than 
tliese  adventurers  are  known  to  have  brought  over  with 
the  n ;  we  would  therefore  prefer  the  opinion  which  as- 
cr'.bes  them  to  the  same  nations  that  erected  the  mounds, 
and  v.'ho  may  have  sunk   these   wells,  either  for  pur- 
poses of  self-defence,  according  to  the  usual  mode  of  Indian 
warfare,  or  as  habitations,  in  the  manner  known  to  be 
practised  by  some  Indian  tribes,  (vide  Harmon's  descrip- 
tion of  the  Carriers*  J  or  finally,  for  some  other  cause  as 
yet  undiscovered.     Their  great  depth,  which  is  said  at 
this  time  in  many  cases  to  exceed  twenty  feet,  may  be 
considered  as  an  objection  to  the  opinion  which  we  have 
advanced.  The  supposition  of  Mr.  Atwater,that  these  wells, 
which  he  states  to  be  at  least  a  thousand  in  number,  were 
opened  for  the  mere  purpose  of  extracting  rock  crystal  and 
hornstone,  appears  to  us  too  refined ;  what  ever  may  have  been 
the  advances  of  these  nations  in  civilization,  we  have  no 
reason  to  believe  that  they  had  carried  them  so  far  as  to  be 
induced  to  undertake  immense  mining  operations,  for  the 
mere  purpose  of  obtaining  these  articles.     (Archseologia 
Americana,  vol.  i.  p.  130.) 

Newark  is  a  pleasant  little  town,  situated  at  the  fork  of 


lar 
aroi 

■  '.V^ 

a  di 

.?r 

froi 

i.  1 

•Journal  of  a  Voyage  and  Travels  in  the  Interior  of  North  America* 
by  D.  W.  Harmon,  Andover,  1820. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


49 


these;  they 
y  attributed 
nstantly  in- 
commenced 
1  indication; 
jtend  to  ex- 
e  number  in 
com  their  di- 
j  abilities  of 
ive  required 
lulation  than 
it  over  with 
»n  which  as- 
the  mounds, 
Jier  for  pur- 
ode  of  Indian  . 
mown  to  be 
on's  descrip- 
ther  cause  as 
ch  is  said  at 
feet,  may  be 
ich  we  have 
it  these  wells, 
umber,  were 

c  crystal  and 
lay  have  been 

we  have  no 
so  far  as  to  be 

ions,  for  the 

[Archaeologia 


Licking  and  Raccoon  creeks,  l  bout  twenty -five  miles  from 
Zanesville.  Within  a  short  distance  of  it  are  some  very 
fine  remains  of  Indian  works,  which  we  were  deprived 
from  seeing,  having  been  misinformed  as  to  their  real 
position ;  but  we  had  less  cause  to  regret  this,  as  an  excel- 
lent description  of  them  has  been  published  by  Mr.  Caleb 
Atwater,  whose  zeal  and  activity  in  exploring  those  old 
Indian  works,  have  acquired  for  him  a  distinguished  rank 
among  the  antiquaries  of  America.  From  his  account  of 
them,  it  would  appear  th^:.!  these  works  must  have  covered 
several  miles  of  country,  pnd  that  they  were  perhaps  con- 
nected with  other  works,  situated  at  a  distance,  by  parallel 
walls  extending  over  a  space  of  thirty  miles.  Of  the 
labour  bestowed  upon  them,  an  idea  can  be  formed  from 
the  circumstance,  that  among  these  works  there  "  is  a  circu- 
lar fort,  containing  about  twenty-six  acres,  having  a  wall 
around  it,  formed  by  the  ground  which  was  thrown  out  of 
a  deep  ditch  on  the  inner  side  of  the  wall ;  this  wall  is  now 
from  twenty-five  to  thirty  fiiet  in  height."  (Archaeol.  Am. 
i.  127.) 

In  the  vicinity  of  Newark  we  observed  an  orchard,  every 
tree  of  which  was  propped,  having,  as  we  were  told,  suf- 
fered much  from  a  violent  south-westerly  gale  on  Easter 
Sunday  of  this  year;  the  fact  would  not  have  appeared  to 
us  worthy  of  notice,  but  for  the  observation  that  this  gale 
of  wind,  which  was  felt  very  extensively  throughout  the 
country,  was  observed  to  have  a  different  direction  in  dif- 
ferent places ;  at  Philadelphia  it  is  known  to  have  been 
from  the  north-east.  It  may  be  a  question,  whether  these 
two  gales  were  in  any  manner  connected,  and  if  so,  why 
they  happened  to  proceed  from  different  directions. 

At  Newark  the  party  fell  in  with  Captain  John  Cleves 
Symes,  a  man  whose  eccentric  views  on  the  nature  of  the 

Vol.  I.  7 


50 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


globe,  have  acquired  for  him,  not  only  in  America,  but  also 
in  England,  a  temporary  reputiition.  The  partial  insanity 
of  this  man  is  of  a  singular  nature.  It  has  caused  him  to 
pervert,  to  the  support  of  an  evidently  absurd  doctrine,  all 
th?  facts,  which,  by  close  study,  be  has  been  enabled  to  collect 
from  a  vast  number  of  authorities.  He  appears  conversant 
with  every  work  of  travels  from  Hearne's  to  Humboldt's, 
and  there  is  not  a  fact  to  be  found  in  these  which  he  does  not 
manage  with  considerable  ingenuity,  to  bring  to  the  sup-* 
port  of  his  favourite  doctrine.  Upon  other  subjects  he  talks 
sensibly,  and  as  a  well-informed  man.  In  listening  to  his 
expositions  of  his  views  of  the  concavity  of  our  globe,  we 
felt  that  interest  which  is  inevitably  awakened  by  the 
aberrations  of  an  unregulated  mind,  possessed  probably  of 
a  capacity  too  great  for  the  narrow  ssphere  in  which  it  was 
doomed  to  live ;  and  which  has  consumed  itself  with  the 
fire,  which  if  properly  applied,  would  doubless  have  illu- 
mined some  obscure  point  in  the  science  which  it  so  strongly 
affects.  In  another  point  of  view,  Captain  Symes  has  a  claim 
to  our  best  sympathies  for  the  gallantry  with  which  he  serv- 
ed his  country  during  the  war. 

From  Newark  to  Columbus  the  road  passes  through  a 
moist  and  heavily-wooded  country,  well  calculated  for  the 
growth  of  the  beach  tree,  which  was  found  here  superior 
in  size  to  any  previously  observed.  This  part  of  the  route 
lying  remote  from  any  navigable  streams,  is  almost  des- 
titute of  population ;  and  it  was  only  when  we  came  to  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Columbus,  that  we  again  found  our- 
selves in  the  midst  of  civilization. 

The  spot  upon  which  the  metropolis  of  Ohio  now  stands, 
presents  a  remarkable  instance  of  those  rapid  changes  which 
are  so  often  to  be  met  with  in  our  western  states.  In  1812  a 
single  log  cabin  only  could  be  observed,  where  now  a  popu- 


souRCS  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


51 


lation  of  fifteen  hundred  inhabitants  is  seen  enjoying  all  the 
comforts,  and  carrying  on  all  the  business  of  an  old  settle- 
ment The  situation  of  Columbus  is,  however,  far  from  pre- 
senting advantages  that  can  compete  with  those  of  many 
other  western  settlements.  Much  difficulty  and  division  ap- 
pears to  have  prevailed  in  Ohio  previously  to  the  location  qf 
the  seat  of  government;  and  this  spot  was  probably  selected 
by  a  sort  of  compromise,  rather  with  a  view  to  its  central 
situation  than  from  any  great  local  advantage.  It  stands 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Scioto,  at  about  half  a  mile  from 
Franklinton,  whose  site  on  the  right  bank  was  thought 
too  low  and  unhealthy. 

The  party  were  here  joined  by  Mr.  Colhoun,  who  had 
travelled  from  Washington  city  by  the  national  road  to 
Wheeling,  and  thence  proceeded  to  Columbus^  where  he 
waited  for  the  arrival  of  the  Expedition.  Some  further  ar- 
rangements required  to  accommodate  ourselves  to  the  coun- 
try through  which  v,re  had  to  travel,  occasioned  in  this  town  a 
delay  of  one  day,  during  which  we  experienced  a  remarkably 
heavy  thunderstorm,  which  was  accompanied  by  a  wind 
apparently  like  a  hurricane,  its  direction  shifting  at  every 
moment;  this  produced  much  damage  in  the  town,  and 
among  other  ^ings  carried  off  both  the  gable  ends  of  a 
house,  the  wind  forcing  a  way  for  itself  under  the  roof. 

The  banks  of  the  Scioto  are  covered  with  pebbles,  ap- 
parently from  primitive  formations ;  no  rocks  were  visi- 
ble in  place,  but  the  limestone  used  in  the  to%vn,  and 
which  is  filled  with  organic  remains,  is  said  to  be  found  in 
the  vicinity ;  it  appears  to  be  similar  to  that  observed  at 
Zanesville. 

The  wealth  of  Ohio  has  been  so  often  the  subject  of  dis- 
cussion, that  we  felt  an  interest  in  ascertaining  how  far  the 
reports  circulated  were  correct.    We  found  that,  in  fact, 


52 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


r 


the  produce  yielded  by  agriculture  so  far  exceeds  all  de- 
mands for  it,  that  it  has  become  a  sort  of  dead  stock  in 
the  hands  of  its  owners.  The  price  of  grain  has  fallen  so 
low,  that  the  only  mode  of  disposing  of  it  consists  in  dis- 
tilling it  into  whiskey,  of  which  the  price  is  twelve  and  a 
half  cents  per  gallon,  and  when  retailed  in  small  quanti- 
ties it  sells  at  the  rate  of  twenty-five  cents  per  gallon. 
Such  prices  must  of  course  be  a  check  upon  all  industry, 
and  at  the  same  time  productive  of  much  mischief  by  of- 
fering a  temptation  to  intoxication,  which  too  many  find 
it  impossible  to  resist. 

The  weather  had  already  set  in  very  warm,  the  thermome- 
ter standing  usually  at  noon  at  upwards  of  eighty  degrees. 
Observations  for  latitude  and  longitude  were  commenced 
here,  but  were  interrupted  by  the  storm. 

Wednesday,  May  21st,  the  expedition  left  Columbus  on 
its  way  to  Piqua,  situated  on  the  Miami,  about  seventy 
miles  west  of  Columbus,  and  likewise  in  the  state  of  Ohio. 
The  intermediate  country  is  but  thinly  settled ;  the  soil  is 
black,  and  not  very  deep,  seldom  more  than  eight  inches ; 
it  is  underlaid  with  sand  and  pebbles,  which  are  evidently 
the  detritus  of  granitic  rocks,  similar  to  the  large  boulders 
observed  every  where  throughout  the  country.  No  rocks 
to  be  met  with  in  place.  Although  the  country  is  very 
high,  being  probably  from  the  best  measurements  which 
have  been  made,  at  least  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
the  surface  of  Lake  Erie,  and  consequently  upwards  of 
nine  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  it  is  very 
wet,  being  swampy,  with  occasional  open  woods  and  soft 
marshy  prairies,  very  unlike  those  that  are  described  by 
travellers  as  existing  to  the  westward,  and  which  we  after- 
wards met  with  on  the  St.  Peter's,  &c.  The  whole  of  this 
part  of  our  route  led  us  irresistibly  to  the  conclusion,  that 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


53 


we  were  travelling  upon  the  bottom  of  some  lake,  whose 
waters  had,  at  a  comparatively  modern  period,  broken 
their  bounds  and  found  their  way  to  the  ocean.  It  is  true, 
that  in  the  present  state  of  our  geographical  and  geological 
knowledge  of  the  valley  drained  by  the  Mississippi,  it  is 
impossible  to  assign  any  probable  limits  to  this  vast  inter- 
nal ocean ;  we  know  too  little  of  the  true  direction  of  the 
different  chains  of  mountains,  which  extend  throughout 
this  section  of  our  country,  or  of  their  respective  heights, 
to  allow  us  to  trace  the  limits  of  that  powerful  dam  which 
formerly  kept  the  whole  of  our  western  country  under 
water ;  nor  can  we  attempt  to  show  in  what  places  and 
from  what  causes  the  dam  was  forced,  but  the  mere  in- 
spection of  the  high  plains,  which  form  the  centre  of  the 
state  of  Ohio,  must  satisfy  us  that  they  doubtless  owe  the 
characters  which  they  now  present,  to  the  recent  sojourn 
of  water.  The  country  is  covered  with  a  very  heavy 
growth  of  wood ;  many  of  the  trees  are  upwards  of  five 
feet  in  diameter.  These  forests  consist  chiefly  of  oak,  ash, 
elm,  hickory,  sugar-maple,  black-walnut,  beach,  tulip,  wild- 
cherry,  &c.  The  cotton-wood  tree,  and  the  garden-coral 
honeysuckle  were  first  observed  here  in  great  abundance  ; 
the  tulip  or  Liriodendron,  is  the  tree  which  attains  the 
largest  size.  The  soil,  though  good,  is  not  of  the  first 
quality,  and  it  is  generally  observed  that  the  dark  black 
soil,  which  predominates,  is  inferior  in  quality  to  a  choco- 
late-coloured one  which  is  occasionally  met  with.  The 
average  produce  of  the  best  crops  of  Indian  corn  amounts 
to  about  fifty  bushels  per  acre ;  a  good  crop  of  wheat  yields 
about  thirty  bushels.  The  increase  of  population  in  this 
district  is  far  from  being  as  rapid  as  it  promised  to  be ;  the 
want  of  a  market,  the  unhealthiness  of  all  the  marshy 


M 


EXPEDTTION    TO   THE 


lands,*  and  (lie  constant  impulse  to  an  emigratioa  further 
to  the  west,  have  prevented  mar^-  ettlements  being  made, 
remote  from  the  streams.  Wild  a  •  unimproved  land  may 
be  had,  in  most  places,  at  two  dollars  per  acre,  and  there  is 
still  some  public  land,  belonging  to  the  United  States, 
which  may  be  purchased  at  one  dollar  and  a  quarter  per 
acre.  The  surface  of  the  country  presents  some  slight  un- 
dulations. The  only  stream  of  any  consequence  which  we 
met  between  the  Scioto  and  the  Miami,  was  Mad  river,  a 
tributary  of  the  latter.  The  name  which  it  bears  was 
given  to  it  on  account  of  the  wildnessof  its  scenery,  and  of 
the  agitation  of  its  waters,  resulting  from  the  roughness  of 
its  bed.  This  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  streams  which 
the  western  country  presents.  Instead  of  the  wide,  and 
frequently  bare  bed,  in  which  the  other  streams  run  with 
a  slow  and  lazy  pace,  Mad  river  descends  in  many  parts 
of  its  course  through  a  narrow  and  contracted  channel, 
with  the  rapidity  of  a  torrent.  Notwithstanding  the  un- 
cultivated and  uninhabited  state  of  the  country,  we  saw 
but  little  game ;  this  consisted  of  a  few  deer  and  wild  tur- 
keys, which  however  kept  so  far  from  our  course  as  to  pre- 
vent our  firing  at  any. 

The  town  of  Urbanna  is  small,  but  neatly  laid  out.  We 
met  here  with  a  family  of  emigrants  lately  removed  from 
New  Jersey,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  the  Palma  Christi, 
and  manufacturing  from  it  Castor  oil,  which  they  pro- 
pose sending  to  the  eastern  cities,  by  the  way  of  New  Or- 


•  Besides  the  ague  and  intermittent  fevers,  we  were  informed  that 
a  very  fatal  disease  had  prevailed  during  the  last  summer ;  i:  is  well 
known  to  the  west  under  the  name  of  the  sick  stomachy  or  milk  sick> 
ness,  and  is  supposed  to  be  produced  by  drinking  milk,  which  has  be- 
come unwholesome  from  some  cause  or  oth.er ;  many  person?  died  of 
it  last  ye&r. 


SOURCE    OP   ST.    PETER'S    RIVER. 


55 


leans ;  they  have  already  planted  twelve  acres  of  it,  and 
from  the  experiments  which  have  been  made,  anticipate 
much  success  in  this  culture. 

The  expedition  stopped  for  a  day  at  Piqua,  a  small  in- 
corporated town,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Miami 
1  iver,  and  on  a  spot  which  appears  to  have  been  the  site 
of  a  numerous  Indian  population.     The  river  is  navigable 
for  keel  boats,  a  few  miles  above  the  town,  during  half  the 
year.     The  town  is  built  in  a  semicircular  bend  of  the 
river,  so  that  its  streets,  which  are  rectilinear,  and  parallel 
to  the  chord  of  the  arc,  are  terminated  at  both  ends  by  the 
water.     The  spot  is  one  of  the  most  advantageous  in  the 
country  for  a  large  population ;  the  situation  is  very  fine 
for  defence  against  aggressors ;  and  we  find  that  with  their 
accustomed  discrimination,  the  Indians  had  made  this  one 
of  their  principal  seats.     The  remains  of  their  works  are 
very  interesting,  and  being,  we  believe,  as  yet  undescribed, 
we  surveyed  them  with  such  means  as  were  at  our  dis- 
posal.   They  consist  for  the  most  part  of  circular  parapets, 
the  elevation  of  which  varies  at  present  from  three  to  five 
or  six  feet ;  but  which  bear  evident  marks  of  having  been 
at  one  time  much  higher ;  many  of  them  are  found  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  town,  and  several  of  them  in  tlie 
town  itself.     The  plough  passes  every  year  over  some 
parts  of  these  works,  and  will  probably  continue  to  unite 
its  levelling  influence  with  that  of  time,  to  obliterate  the 
last  remains  of  a  people,  who,  judging  from  the  monuments 
which  it  has  left  behind,  must  have  been  far  more  advanced 
in  civilization  than  the  Indians  who  were  found  there  a 
century  or  two  ago ;  and  of  whom  a  few  may  still  be  seen 
occasionally  roving  about  the  spot,  where  their  fathers  met 
4n  council. 

We  observed  one  elliptic  and  five  circular  works,  two  of 


M 


FXPEDITIOX   TO   THE 


!!| 


m 


which  arc  on  the  cast  hank  of  the  river,  the  otiicrs  arc  on 
the  west  Tlie  ground  appears,  in  all  cases,  to  have  been 
taken  from  the  inside,  which  forms  a  ditch  in  the  interior; 
its  depth  cannot  of  course  be  ascertained  at  present,  as  it  is 
in  great  measure  filled  up,  but  it  must  have  been  consider- 
able. The  area,  within  the  ditch,  probably  retained  the 
level  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  parapet  may  have 
been  from  three  to  four  feet  wide,  but  from  slow  decay  it 
appears  much  wider.  The  first  which  we  visited,  (A.)* 
is  situated  at  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  south-west  of 
the  town,  and  half  a  mile  westward  of  the  river;  it  appears 
to  have  been  tlie  most  important  of  all,  and  forms,  as  it 
were,  the  centre  round  which  the  others  were  disposed. 
Its  form  is  circular ;  its  diameter  is  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet :  it  has  a  gateway  from  eight  to  ten  feet  wide, 
which  faces  the  river.  Immediately  connected,  and  in  close 
contact  with  it,  to  the  soutli-south-east,  there  is  a  small  cir- 
cular work,  fa.J  the  parapet  of  which  is  considerably 
higher;  its  diameter  is  about  forty-three  feet;  it  has  no 
gateway  or  opening  whatsoever.  It  has  generally  been 
considered  as  intended  for  a  look-out  post;  but  this  opinion 
appears  incorrect,  from  the  circumstance  that  it  is  not  raised 
high  enough  for  this  purpose ;  that  its  size  is  much  greater 
than  what  would  be  required  for  a  mere  post  of  observa- 
tion ;  and  finally,  that  its  construction  essentially  differs 
from  that  which  is  recorded  by  Mr.  Atwater  and  other 
observers,  as  belonging  to  such  posts  of  observation.  There 
is  nothing  to  support  this  opinion  but  its  situation,  which 
is  in  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  plain.  We  however 
think  it  more  probable,  that  it  was  considered  as  a  strong 
hold  which  should  be  resorted  to  in  the  last  extremitv. 


•  See  the  annexed  plan. 


SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETER  !l    RIVER. 


57 


2  Others  arc  on 
1,  to  have  been 
in  the  interior ; 
present,  as  it  is 
been  consider- 

ly  retained  the 
rapet  may  have 
I  slow  decay  it 

3  visited,  (A.)* 
le  south-west  oi" 
•ivcr;  it  appears 
nd  forms,  as  it 

were  disposed, 
ne  hundred  and 
)  ten  feet  wide, 
:ted,  and  in  close 
re  is  a  small  c  ir- 
is considerably 
feet;  it  has  no 

generally  been 
but  this  opinion 
at  it  is  not  raised 
is  much  greater 
►ost  of  observa- 
isentially  differs 
vater  and  other 
ervation.  There 
situation,  whicli 
We  however 
ered  as  a  strong 

last  extremity. 


This  opinion  accounts  for  all  the  characters  which  wc  ob- 
serve about  it.  Its  situation  near  the  main  fort  at  the  cen- 
tre of  the  works;  its  smaller  dimensions,  which,  while  they 
would  admit  a  considerable  force,  would  permit  it  to  be 
defended  more  easily  than  the  extensive  works  with  which 
it  is  connected :  th*j  height  and  thickness  of  its  parapet  con- 
firm this  belief.  The  circumstance  of  there  being  no  gate- 
way, is  an  additional  pre  of  for  us,  that  it  was  intended  to 
be  used  li'^e  the  citadel  of  a  modern  fortress,  as  the  last  spot 
in  which  the  remnants  of  a  defeated  army  might  be  con- 
centrated in  order  to  make  a  decisive  stand  against  their 
aggressors. 

Proceeding  in  a  direction  south  sixty-five  degrees  east 
from  the  first  work,  at  a  distance  of  about  seven  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  we  find  another  fortification,  (B.)  which, 
like  the  former,  is  partly  situated  in  a  ploughed  field,  but 
which  passes  also  over  a  bye-road.  In  this  old  work,  the 
white  man  has  built  his  barns,  stables,  &c.  and  appears 
anxious  to  hurry  on  the  destruction  of  what  would,  if  un- 
injured by  him,  have  resisted  the  assaults  of  time.  The 
parapet  of  this  fort  is  not  quite  so  elevated  as  that  of  the 
former ;  its  dimensions  are  larger,  being  about  two  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  feet  in  diametf^  ;  it  has  a  gateway 
fronting  that  in  the  first  fort,  and  similar  to  it  If  any 
covered  way  ever  existed  by  which  these  two  works  were 
connected,  it  has  disappeared,  no  trace  of  it  being  it  pre- 
sent visible. 

Taking  again  the  first  fort,  (A.)  as  a  centre,  and  proceed- 
ing from  it  in  a  course  north  eighty-five  degree*  east,  we 
find  anciher  circular  enclosure,  (C.)  distant  seven  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  from  the  first,  and  about  five  hundred  and 
forty  feet  in  a  northerly  course  from  the  second ;  its  para- 
pets are  higher  than  those  of  the  other  two ;  its  diameter 

Vol.  I.  8 


'III" 


m 


m 


58 


EXPEDITION   TO  THE 


is  about  One  hundred  and  fifty  feet;  it  is  provided  with  a 
gateway  fronting  that  of  the  first  fort  Betweeu  the  se- 
cond and  third  forts,  (B.  and  C.)  and  near  the  bank  of  the 
river,  there  are  remains  of  a  water-way,  (W.)  formeriy 
connected  as  we  suppose  with  the  third  fort;  these  remains 
consist  of  a  ditch  dug  down  to  the  edge  of  the  liver;  the 
earth  from  the  same  having  been  thrown  up  principally 
on  the  south  side  or  that  which  fronts  down  the  river,  the 
breadth  uetween  the  two  parapets  is  much  wider,  near  the 
Ivater,  than  at  a  distance  fi  om  it ;  so  that  it  may  have  been 
used  either  for  the  purpose  of  ofiering  a  safe  passage  down 
to  the  nver,  or  as  a  sort  of  harbour,  in  which  canoes  might 
be  drawn  rp ;  or  perhaps,  as  is  most  probable,  it  was  in- 
tended to  serve  both  purposes.  This  water-way  resembles 
in  some  respects,  that  found  near  Marietta,  but  its  dimen- 
sions are  smaller.  The  remains  of  this  work  ar^  at  present 
very  inconsiderable,  and  are  fast  wasting  away,  as  the  road 
which  runs  along  the  bank  of  the  >  .ver  intersects  it,  and 
'i  the  making  of  it,  the  parapet  has  been  levelled  aiid  the 
ditch  filled  up ;  this  is  much  to  be  regretted,  as  this  work, 
if  it  could  be  seen  in  its  perfect  state,  would  perha4)s  dis- 
cover tJie  motive  which  led  to  the  erection  of  these  fortifi- 
cations, the  rttacks  against  which  they  were  intended  to 
provide,  and  the  means  with  which  the  resistance  was  to 
ie  efiecled.  But  the  largest  of  the  works  on  the  western 
bank,  still  remains  to  be  noticed.  This  is  an  elliptical 
construction,  (D.)  of  great  eccentricity;  its  transverse  and 
conjugate  diameters  measuring  eighty-three  and  two  hun- 
dred and  ninety-five  feet;  it  is  siuated  six  hundred  feet  in  a 
direction  north  forty  degrees  east  from  tlie  first  fort,  its  con- 
jugate axis  extends  nearly  east  and  west;  we  observed  no 
gateways ;  this  work  is  almost  effaced,  its  parapet  does  not 
rise  quite  one  foot  above  the  ground. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


59 


We  crossed  the  river  in  a  canoe,  and  landed  at  the  foot 
of  a  very  steep  hill,  about  one  hundred  feet  high.     On  the 
top  of  this  hill,  remains  of  a  fort  (E.)  in  a  very  good  state 
of  preservation  are  to  be  seen;  it  lies  in  a  direction  north 
sixty  degrees  east  from  the  first  fort  which  we  visited,  and 
is  one  hundred  and  twenty-three  feet  in  diameter;  it  is 
placed  on  a  very  commanding  position,  on  the  brow  of  the 
hill  which  has  unfortunately  been  partially  washed  away, 
and  has  carried  down  with  it  about  one-third  part  of  the 
works.   There  is  at  present  but  Oi^e  gateway  visible,  which 
Is  jn  the  east  side,  and  is  about  six  or  eight  feet  wide.  This 
part  of  the  works  is  one  of  the  most  interesting,  it  having 
as  yet  received  no  injury  from  the  hands  of  man.     It  is 
covered  with  trees  of  a  very  large  size.     Upon  the  top  of 
the  parapet  we  found  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  which  had 
evidently  grown  long  after  the  rampart  had  been   con- 
structed, and  probably  much  after  it  had  ceased  to  be  the 
theatre  of  bloodshed  and  of  assault  The  interior  part  of  the 
trunk  was   very  much    decayed ;    but   we  counted  two 
hundred  and  fifty  concentric  layers  in  what  appeared  to  be 
less  than  the  outer  half;  whence  we  concluded  that  this 
tree  was  certainly  upwardg^gfifive  hundred  ye?.rs  old  at  the 
time  it  was  cut  down.     These  works  all  bear  the  impress^ 
of  a  very  remote  antiquity ;  in  some  cases,  trees  of  a  very 
large  size  are  soen  growing  upon  the  trunks  of  still  larger 
trees.     We  have,  as  we  conceive,  no  data  to  enable  us  to 
refer  to  them  any  definite  date ;  but  we  are  well  warranted 
from  all  their  characters  in  assigning  to  1  lem  an  antiquity 
of  upwards  of  one  thousand  years. 

At  about  fifty  rods  to  the  north-north-west  of  the  last 
mentioned  work,  there  is  another,  which  is  circular,  and  of 
a  much  larger  size.  It  has  two  gateways,  one  fronting  east, 
and  the  other  west.     We  did  not  see  this  last,  but  we  are 


7 


7 


s 


60 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


J 


indebted  to  some  of  the  inhabitants  of  Piqua  for  a  descrip- 
tion of  it 

About  these  forts  there  are,  as  might  be  expected,  many- 
Indian  arrow-heads,  and  other  remains  to  be  found.  Those 
which  we  saw  present  however  nothing  pecHliar.     We 
observed  both  the  war  and  the  peace  arrow-head,  or  that 
which  is  used  in  hunting,  and  which  is  distinguished  from 
the  war  arrow-head,  by  the  absence  of  the  acute  shoulder, 
with  which  the  war  arrow  is  always  provided,  in  order  to 
cause  it  to  remain  in  the  wound,  from  which  it  cannot  be 
extricated  without  much  danger  and  pain  to  the  patient : 
whereas,  that  used  in  hunting  is  such  that  it  can  be  with- 
drawn without  difficulty.     For  the  same  reason,  while  the 
latter  is  attached  to  the  arrow  very  firmly,  the  war  head 
adheres  to  it  but  imperfectly,  so  that  after  it  has  entered 
into  the  body,  if  the  arrow  be  withdrawn,  the  head  remains 
buried  in  the  flesh.     Among  other  things  found  near  these 
fortifications  was  a  piece  of  broken  pottery,  which  was  con- 
sidered as  of  Indian  manufacture;  but  on  examining  it 
closely,  we  immediately  recognised  it  to  be  a  fragment  of 
a  small  earthen  crucible,  and  from  its  appearance  we  believe 
it  to  be  of  French  manufacture,  as  it  resembles  more  the 
French  than  the  German  crucible.     Taking  this  into  con- 
sideration, and  bearing  in  mind  that  the  first  French 
settlers  in  this  country  were  constantly  looking  out  for 
ores  of  gold,  silver,  &c.  we  entertain  no  doubt  that  this, 
instead  of  being  of  Indian  manufacture,  is  a  fragment  of  a 
crucible,  probably  imported  from  France,  and  used  in  some 
docimastic  experiment. 

We  had  an  opportunity  the  ensuing  day,  on  our  road  to  Fort 
St  Mary,  to  see  the  remains  of  an  old  Indian  work,  which 
consists  of  stones  apparently  from  the  destruction  of  a  stone 
wall  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  by  the  same 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


61 


nation.  It  is  situated  about  three  miles  west  of  Piqua,  on  a 
bluff  elevated  about  thirty  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
valley  of  the  river.  The  wall,  which  is  considered  by 
some  as  having  been  erected  for  purposes  of  defence,  stood 
near  the  brink  of  the  hill,  facing  to  the  south-east.  It  has 
been  completely  thrown  down,  but  its  limits  may  be  very 
distinctly  traced  by  the  stones  which  lay  on  the  ground,  form- 
ing an  ellipsis  whose  axes  are  respectively  fifteen  hundred 
and  nine  hundred  feet*  This  work  is  stated  upon  the  autho- 
rity of  Col.  Johnston,  to  enclose  an  area  of  seventeen  acres. 
The  longest  axis  extends  in  an  ea$  t  and  west  line ;  the  distance 
of  the  nearest  point  of  the  ellipsis  to  the  river  was  estimated 
to  be  about  seven  hundred  yards.  At  its  south-eastern 
part,  it  is  supported  by  a  circular  earthen  fort,  similar  to 
those  previously  described,  and  measuring  about  thirty-six 
yards  in  diameter.  The  stones,  of  which  the  wall  was 
built,  are  all  rolled,  mostly  granitic,  few  of  them  are  cal- 
careous ;  they  arc  in  every  respect  similai'  to  those  we  find 
scattered  over  the  country,  and  especially  on  the  banks  of 
the  river.  At  present  they  form  a  loose  pavement,  about 
six  feet  wide  round  the  ellipsis.  The  figure  of  the  ellipsis 
deviates  in  some  cases  from  a  strict  regularity,  probably  to 
accommodate  itself  to  the  surface  of  the  country  as  it  then 
was.  In  sundry  parts,  and  more  especially  towards  the 
west  side,  are  many  gateways  or  interruptions  in  the  walls; 
which  are  generally  from  six  to  eight  feet  wide.  Back  of 
these,  and  within  the  area  of  the  ellipsis,  we  find  a  number 


•  This  as  well  as  the  measures  given  for  the  preceding  works,  must 
be  taken  aa approximate.  When  the  distance  was  small,  it  was  determin- 
ed by  means  of  a  measuring  tape ;  when  long,  by  pacing,  the  ground ;  the 
measure  of  the  pace  having  been  first  determined  by  experiment. 
The  courses  or  directions  are  correct,  having  been  taken  with  a  com- 
pass. 


62 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


of  stones  heaped  up  in  the  form  of  mounds,  which  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  remains  of  small  works,  thrown  up  for  the 
defence  of  the  gateway,  and  so  situated  that  one  mound  will 
protect  two  gateways.  Although  the  general  opinion 
seems  tc  be  favourable  to  the  idea,  that  this  stone  wall  was 
erected  as  a  fortification,  we  by  no  means  consider  this  as 
proved.  All  the  stones  which  are  found  there,  if  arranged 
so  as  to  form  the  highest  possible  wall,  would  probably  not 
rise  above  four  and  a  half  to  five  feet;  but  in  order  to 
a£ford  the  wall  any  degree  of  solidity,  it  would  be  neces» 
sary  to  give  it  such  a  breadth  as  would  probably  reduce 
its  dimensions  to  less  than  three  feet  On  the  part  of  those 
who  do  lAot  consider  this  as  the  remains  of  a  military 
work,  it  may  be  argued  that  we  have  no  proof  of  these 
stones  having  ever  formed  a  wall ;  that  they  may  have 
been  gathered  for  the  purpose  of  forming  the  elliptical 
pavement  which  they  now  present  That  this  may  have 
been  constructed  for  motives  which  we  cannot  at  present 
conceive  of,  is  no  proof  that  such  motives  may  not  have 
existed ;  further,  it  may  be  said  that,  admitting  these  stones 
to  be  the  remains  of  a  wall,  it  is  not  probable  that  it  was  made 
for  military  purposes,  as  a  work  of  this  kind  would  ceiiainly 
not  have  been  erected  for  the  protection  of  a  small  force, 
and  as  a  large  number  of  persons  collected  in  it  would  have 
been  quite  unprotected  against  arrows  and  other  missile 
weapons.  That  the  situation,  though  a  commanding  one, 
appears  quite  untenable  for  want  of  water,  which  can  only 
be  procured  by  descending  the  hill  towards  the  river,  in 
which  case  the  party  venturing  out  would  be  exposed  to 
be  cut  off  by  the  enemy.  A  spring  was,  it  is  true,  observed 
within  the  elliii^ic  enclosure;  but  the  small  quantity  of 
water  which  it  at!brcis  at  present,  renders  it  improbable 
that  it  should  have  been  at  any  time  sufficient  for  the  con- 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


63 


sQmption  of  as  large  a  force  as  would  have  been  required 
in  the  defence  of  so  extensive  a  work.  The  number  of 
gateways  it  may  be  said,  likewise  excludes  the  possibility 
of  its  being  intended  as  a  work  of  defence ;  for  they  are 
very  numerous  and  sometimes  within  four  or  five  feet  of 
each  other.  The  unevenness  of  the  ground,  part  of  the 
wall  being  along  the  sides  of  the  hill  and  much  lower  than 
the  rest,  may  be  urged  as  another  strong  objection  to  its 
being  considered  as  a  military  work.  If  it  be  not  intended 
for  purposes  of  war,  what  was  the  intention  of  those  who 
erected  it?  Its  extent,  the  labour  which  it  required  in  order 
to  accomplish  it,  its  form  and  situation,  in  fine,  all  its  cha- 
racters would  then  concur  in  leading  lu  the  belief  that  it 
must  have  been  a  religious  monument;  probably  forming 
an  arena  where  their  sacred  festivals,  their  games,  their 
ceremonies  could  be  conveniently  carried  on.  The  num- 
ber of  the  gates,  the  heaps  of  stones  which  lay  near  them, 
all  tend  to  prove  that  no  other  origin  can  be  safely 
ascribed  to  it  It  was  si  ^'gested  that  this  may  perhaps  be 
the  remains  of  a  pound,  similar  to  those  made  by  the  Indians 
to  this  day,  for  the  purpose  of  entrapping  buffaloes  and 
other  wild  game.  But  this  opinion  is  likewise  excluded  by 
the  little  resistance  which  a  wall  of  such  small  dimensions, 
formed  by  the  union  of  uncemented  stones  but  loosely 
piled  together,  would  have  presented  to  the  powerful  efibrts 
of  the  wild  animals  which  it  would  have  been  intended  to 
enclose.  Its  situation  on  an  uneven  ground,  likewise 
excludes  this  hypothesis  from  any  claim  to  plausibility. 

The  stones  used  vary  much  in  size,  from  that  of  a  wal- 
nut to  the  largest  which  a  man  may  carry;  doubts  may 
exist  whether  this  wall  was  raised  upon  an  earthen  pa- 
rapet ;  if  there  was  one  of  this  kind,  it  has  certainly  dis- 
appeared almost  entirely,  yet  in  a  few  places  the  elevation 


64 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


formed  by  the  stones,  appeared  greater  than  might  have 
been  expected  from  the  quantity  of  materials  which  were 
observed.  It  is,  therefore,  not  impossible  that,  in  some 
places  at  least,  the  wall  may  have  been  supported  by  an 
earthen  parapet.  The  motive  foi*  which  these  stones  were 
collected  will  probably  ever  remain  a  secret;  and  we 
must  be  contented  with  surmises,  all  of  which  are  unsatis- 
factory, because  all  are  founded  upon  hypothetical  manners, 
which  we  ascribe  to  the  authors  of  these  works.  When  we 
observe  a  circular  rampart  with  a  fosse,  a  gateway  and  a 
traverse  inside  of  the  gateway,  we  discover  a  similarity 
to  our  modern  fortifications,  and  we  immediately  consider 
that  this  may  have  been  erected  for  the  same  purpose; 
without  enquiring  into  the  foundation  which  we  have  for 
assigning  to  them  the  same  system  of  fortification  which 
we  have  adopted.  In  examining  into  the  character  of  man, 
whether  civilized  or  savage,  we  are,  it  is  true,  struck  with 
the  powerful  influence  which  two  of  the  most  opposite 
passions,  a  warlike  and  religious  spirit  will  exercise  over 
him;  and  to  one  or  both  of  these  we  may  attribute  his 
most  astonishing  actions,  whether  good  or  bad.  The  ex- 
perience of  every  nation  proves,  that  almost  all  religious 
faiths  have  led  to  the  undertaking  of  vast  constructions. 
Without  recurring  to  the  Egyptian  and  Indian  antiquities, 
we  find  in  the  splendid  remains  of  Greece  and  Rome,  in 
the  colossal  and  magnificent  Gothic  cathedrals  of  the  middle 
ages,  and  even  in  the  more  recent  edifices  of  modern  times, 
that  religion  has  at  all  periods  been  the  principal  motive 
which  induced  men  to  exert  their  genius  and  expend 
their  labour  in  constructions.  Judging,  by  the  same  test, 
of  the  nations  long  since  extinct,  which  at  one  time  covered 
the  banks  of  our  western  streams,  we  will  not  be  surpris- 
ed if  the  remains  of  their  finest  works  bear  the  character 


<i* 


I 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER  S    RIVER. 


65 


of  having  been  undertaken,  partly  at  least,  with  religious 
views. 

On  the  road  from  Piqua  to  this  stone  wall,  wc  passed  a 
very  large  mound,  which  had  been  partially  cut  down  in 
order  to  make  room  for  the  road.  This  mound  has,  as  we  be- 
lieve,  never  been   opened.      In   this  vicinity  and   near 
the  bank  of  the  river,  is  the  residence  of  Colonel  John 
Johnston  the  Indian  agent,  a  man  whom  we  should  judge 
to  be  of  estimable  feelings  as,  unlike  most  of  the  settlers  in 
this  new  country,  he  has  respected  the  remains  of  these  In- 
dian works,  and  has  not  suffered  the  ploughshare  to  pass 
through  them.  Colonel  Johnston  observes,  that  he  does  not 
know  that  any  Indian  works  have  been  found  due  north  of 
Miami  county,  (Ohio,)  though  they  occur  to  the  south  and 
south-west  as  far  as  the  Floridas.     (Western  Gazetteer,  p. 
290.)   About  half  a  mile  to  the  south  of  the  town  of  Piqua, 
there  is  an  old  Indian  cemetery,  it  is  situated  upon  a  level 
piece  of  ground,  elevated  about  twenty  feet  above  high  water 
mark,  and  in  a  romantic  spot  intersected  by  a  small  run.  The 
surface  ofthis  place  is  formed  by  limestone  rocks,  laying  bare 
and  deposited  in  horizontal  strata.  Upon  these  rocks  it  appears 
that  the  corpses  were  deposited,  and  that  they  were  co- 
vered over  With  slabs  of  stone,  some  of  which  were  tolera- 
bly large ;  over  these  a  thin  soil  has  been  formed,  in  the 
lapse  of  ages,  and  this  supports  a  scanty  herbage.   Upon 
reaching  the  spot,  we  found  that  most  of  these  mounds 
had  been  broken  open  for   the    purpose  of  burning  in- 
to lime  the  fragments  of  stone  which  composed  them,  and 
of  avoiding  thereby  the  trouble  of  working  into  the  solid 
rock.     We  opened  several,  but  in  all  cases  we  found  the 
bones  very  much  injured ;  indeed,  all  of  them  were  more  or 
less  broken  except  one,  which  was  evidently  a  toe  bone. 
They  had  become  very  much  altered,  and  were  yellow  and 
Vol.  I.  9 


66 


iJXPEDITION   TO   THE 


cellular.  We  took  specimens  with  us  to  examine  them 
chemically,  with  a  view  to  ascertain  what  changes  they 
h^d  undergone;  but  they  were  lost  with  part  of  our  collec- 
tions. The  objects  which  seemed  to  resist  decomposition 
most  effectually,  were  teeth.  Of  these  we  found,  how- 
ever, but  few,  not  more  than  half  a  dozen ;  two  of  them 
were  milk  teeth,  the  rest  had  belonged  to  adults;  they 
were  rather  of  a  small  size,  and  worn  out  almost  to  the 
root  The  i  ones  all  lay  scattered  and  without  order ;  they 
were  t^  -^s  of  the  cranium,  the  arms,  shoulders,  &c. 
which  i  .108-  t/umbled  under  the  pressure  of  the  fingers. 
The  only  object  u.at  we  noticed  with  them,  were  the  two 
incisor  teeth  of  a  ground  squirrel,  which  were  probably  of 
fortuitous  deposition. 

The  rocks  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Piqua  are  uniform- 
ly composed  of  a  white  limestone,  of  a  compact  texture, 
but  containing  many  cavities  filled  by  crystallized  carbon- 
ate of  lime.  It  is  filled  with  organic  impressions,  among 
which  Mr.  Say  determined  the  Flustra,  (expanded  and 
branched,)  the  Terebratula,  the  Caryophillaea,  and  probably 
several  others.  A  rolled  specimen,  which  is  supposed  not 
to  belong  to  this  formation,  contained  a  tolerably  good  im- 
pression of  Favosites  striata,  S.  •• 

We  also  found  here  a  specimen  of  primitive  limestone 
with  mica ;  but  it  was  evidently  rolled,  and  bore  no  resem- 
blance to  the  rocks  which  occur  in  place  in  this  vicinity. 
At  Piqua  the  rocks  are  all  very  well  stratified,  the  strata 
being  nearly  horizontal.  This  limestone  is  found  to  yield 
by  burning,  a  lime  of  a  tolerably  good  quality.  It  is  stated 
that  salt  springs  have  been  discovered  in  various  places 
near  Piqua,  but  we  met  with  none. 

There  is  a  very  considerable  rapid  in  the  Miami  at  this 
place,  which  has  induced  a  company  to  cut  a  canal  for  the 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER  S    RIVER. 


e? 


accommodation  of  the  ascending  navigation.  This  im- 
provement is  now  completed,  and  affords  them  a  fine 
water-power,  with  a  fall  of  nine  feet  This,  together  with 
the  fertility  of  the  adjoining  country,  which  is  represented 
as  formed  of  a  very  rich  prime  soil,  ©r  a  chocolate  colour, 
will  doubtless  soon  lead  to  the  erection  of  extensive  grist 
mills  at  this  place ;  the  capital  of  the  company  not  being 
adequate  to  the  undertaking,  the  mills  which  they  have  es- 
tablished are  by  no  means  suitable  to  the  power  of  which 
they  can  dispose.  The  Miami  is  fordable  here  at  almost 
all  seasons  of  the  year,  but  there  is  a  very  good  bridge  over 
the  river.  The  name  of  the  town  is  derived  from  that  of 
one  of  the  principal  tribes  of  the  Shawanese  Indians,  ;io 
formerly  roved  through  this  part  of  the  country,  spre?>ding; 
itself  as  far  as  the  Pickawa  plains,  situated  about  seventy-five 
miles  to  the  south-east.  This  tribe  is  now  nearly  extinct,  the 
few  remaining  descendants  of  it  have  united  themselves 
with  the  Miamis,  and  are  settled  in  the  vicinity  .'  Fort 
Wayne. 

After  spending  a  very  interesting  day  in  Piqua,  in  the 
examination  of  its  antiquities,  we  left  this  place  with  a  feel- 
ing of  gratitude  for  the  kind  attentions  shown  to  our  party 
by  the  inhabitants  of  the  town,  and  particularly  by  the 
Register  of  the  Land-office,  Major  Oliver,  late  of  the  Army, 
whose  acquaintance  with  the  country  made  him  a  very  in- 
teresting companion  in  our  investigation  of  the  antiquities 
of  the  vicinity. 

The  country  through  which  we  travelled  lies  near  the 
head  waters  of  Loramie's  creek,  one  of  the  tributaries  of 
the  Miami.  We  entered  this  day  upon  what  may  be  term- 
ed the  table  land,  that  divides  the  waters  of  the  Lakes  from 
those  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  continued  on  it  or  in  its 
immediate  vicinity,  until  we  reached  Prairie  du  Chien  on 


68 


EXPEDIiICW   TO   THE 


the  Mississippi.  As  we  shall  have  frequent  opportunity 
of  recurring  to  the  singular  feature,  which  this  country 
presents  in  the  interlockage,  almost  every  where  apparent, 
between  the  head  streams  of  two  mighty  rivers,  whose 
waters  fall  into  the  ocean  at  a  distance  of  upwards  of  two 
thousand  miles,  we  need  not  enter  at  present  into  many 
particulars.  It  will  suffice  to  state,  that  after  leaving  the 
tributaries  of  the  Miami,  we  came,  in  less  than  two  hours' 
ride,  to  the  rivers  which  send  their  waters  to  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence.  The  intermediate  country  is  wet  and 
marshy,  there  is  no  appearance  of  a  ridge,  properly  speak- 
ing; it  is  an  elevated  ^at  plateau,  the  nature  of  which  is 
marshy. 

This  remarkable  feature  in  the  topography  of  the  state  of 
Ohio,  has  not  escaped  the  attention  of  its  inhabitants.  We 
find  that  the  possibility  of  establishing  a  connexion  between 
the  rivers  that  empty  into  the  lakes,  and  the  tributaries  of 
the  Ohio,  has  long  since  been  asserted  by  the  statesmen  of 
the  west.  The  only  point  which  remained  unsettled  was, 
what  direction  should  be  given  to  the  proposed  works,  and 
which  of  the  many  routes  suggested,  was  preferable  ?  On 
this  point  it  cannot  be  doubted  that  the  prerequisite  infor- 
mation had  not  been  obtained,  and  consequently  that  no 
decisive  answer  could  be  given ;  in  the  absence  of  authentic 
calculations,  prepossessions  founded  on  local  interest  \vere, 
perhaps,  allowed  to  exercise  too  great  a  sway.  To  avoid 
these  evils,  and  with  a  view  of  doing  justice  to  the  whole 
state,  the  legislature  of  Ohio  by  a  very  liberal  policy 
appointed  a  board  of  commissioners  to  examine  the  whole 
country,  make  accurate  surveys  of  the  various  routes  which 
had  been  suggested,  ascertain  by  gaging  or  otherwise,  the 
quantity  of  water  on  each  route ;  and  finally  locate  lines  of 
canals  upon  such  routes  as  appeai-ed  to  them  practicable. 


^& 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


69 


int  opportunity 
h  this  country 
vhere  apparent, 
'■  rivers,  whose 
ipwards  of  two 
ent  into  many 
ter  leaving  the 
han  two  hours' 
i  to  the  Gulf  of 
ry  is  wet  and 
jroperly  speak- 
ire  of  which  is 

»y  of  the  state  of 
habitants.  We 
nexion  between 
le  tributaries  of 
he  statesmen  of 
i  unsettled  was, 
osed  works,  and 
preferable?  On 
arequisite  infor- 
[uently  that  no 
mce  of  authentic 
il  interest  \vere, 
vay.  To  avoid 
le  to  the  whole 
J  liberal  policy 
mine  the  whole 
Dus  routes  which 
p  otherwise,  the 
y  locate  lines  of 
lem  practicable. 


1 


They  were  directed  to  submit  the  result  of  their  operations 
to  the  legislature,  who  would  then  be  enabled  to  decide 
upon  the  merits  of  the  respective  routes. 

These  duties  were  too  extensive  and  too  arduous  to 
admit  of  their  being  executed  in  one  season;  and  the  com- 
missioners have  been  arrested  in  many  of  their  surveys  by 
the  unhealthiness  of  the  country,  through  which  they  were 
obliged  10  carry  on  their  operations.  We  have  taken  pains 
to  acquire  information  on  this  interesting  subject,  and  we 
are  inclined  to  consider  that  which  we  have  received  as 
correct,  because  it  was  obtained  from  persons  conversant 
with  it,  and  particularly  from  M.  T.  Williams,  Esq.  of 
Cincinnati,  one  of  the  acting  commissioners,  with  whom  we 
had  the  pleasure  oi  travelling  for  a  few  days ;  and  who,  in 
the  many  conversations  which  we  had  with  him,  has  shown 
himself  master  of  the  subject.  We  have  likewise  drawa 
part  of  our  information  from  the  able  report  made  on  the 
21st  January,  1624,  by  the  canal  commissioners  to  the 
general  assembly  of  Ohio,  for  copies  of  which  we  are  in- 
debted to  Mr.  Williams. 

From  this  report  it  appears  that  the  routes  proposed  may 
be  reduced  to  four,  viz. : — 

The  first  route  would  be  to  connect  the  waters  of  the 
Grand  river  of  Lake  Erie  with  the  Ohio,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Big  Beaver  creek.  This  route,  being  very  near  to  the 
Pennsylvania  line,  and  in  some  parts  east  of  it,  cannot  be 
eligible  by  the  state  of  Ohio,  if  any  other  practicable  route 
may  be  found.  From  the  surveys  made  by  Judge  Geddes, 
or  under  his  direction,  it  would  appear  that  tliis  summit, 
which  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Mahoning  summit 
level,  is  elevated  three  hundred  and  forty -two  feet  above 
Lake  Erie,  and  two  hundred  and  fourteen  feet  above  the 


70 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


Ohio  at  the  mouth  of  Big  Beaver  creek.*  This  canal  would 
therefore  require  upwards  of  five  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of 
lockage.  The  question  whether  or  not  a  sufficiency  of  wa- 
ter can  be  obtained  on  this  route  is  still  undecided. 

The  second  route  contemplates  connecting  the  Muskin- 
gum with  the  lake,  which  may  be  done  either  by  the  Tus- 
carawas and  the  Cuyahoga  creeks,  or  by  the  Killbuck  and 
Black  rivers;  a  third  division  of  this  route  purposes 
ascending  the  Killbuck,  continuing  along  the  summit 
level  in  an  easterly  direction  to  the  Cuyahoga,  and  de- 
scending that  stream  to  the  lake.  These  tliree  plans  may 
be  considered  as  pai*ts  of  one  general  route,  the  preference 
to  either  being  a  question,  which  it  will  only  be  important 
to  decide,  after  the  propriety  of  adopting  the  Muskingum 
route  shall  have  been  decided  in  the  affirmative.  The  sum- 
mit level  between  the  Killbuck  and  Black  river,  is  elevated 
three  hundred  and  thirty-seven  feet  above  Lake  Erie  and 
three  hundred  and  sixty-one  above  the  Ohio  at  Marietta. 
It  would  therefore  require  near  seven  hundred  feet  of 
lockage.  The  level  between  the  Cuyahoga  and  Tuscarawas 
has  been  found  to  be  four  hundred  and  four  feet  above  Lake 
Erie  and  four  hundred  and  twenty-eight  above  Marietta. 
The  locks  would  therefore  exceed  eight  hundred  and  thirty 


*  We  have  here  adopted  the  measurements  g^ven  by  the  canal  com- 
missioners in  their  report,  though  we  are  afraid  that  a  mistake  may 
have  escaped  their  notice ;  the  height  of  this  summit  level  was  stated 
by  a  gentleman  whom  we  met  at  Columbus  to  be  three  hundred  and 
twenty-four  feet,  which  appears  more  correct,  for  by  a  comparison  of 
the  difference  of  level  between  Lake  Erie  and  the  mouth  of  the  Mus- 
kin£^im,  the  fall  of  the  Ohio  from  the  town  of  Beaver  in  Pennsylvania 
to  Marietta  would  be  one  hundred  and  fifty -two  feet,  if  we  adopt  the 
calculations  of  the  commissioners ;  whereas,  upon  the  other  data  it 
would  be  but  thirty-six  feet,  which  is  much  more  probable. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


71 


This  canal  would 
\  and  fifty  feet  of 
sufficiency  of  wa- 
mdecidcd. 
ting  the  Muskin- 
lither  by  the  Tus- 
the  Killbuck  and 
I  route  purposes 
3ng  the  summit 
lyahoga,  and  de- 
three  plans  may 
te,  the  preference 
)nly  be  important 
;  the  Muskingum 
native.  The  sum- 
:  river,  is  elevated 
e  Lake  Erie  and 
Ohio  at  Marietta, 
hundred  feet  of 
a  and  Tuscarawas 
r  feet  above  Lake 
above  Marietta, 
undred  and  thirty 


■^'m 


feet;  this  section  of  the  Muskingum  route,  though  longer, 
and  crossing  a  higher  summit  than  that  up  the  Killbuck, 
would  probably  be  preferryd,  as  being  more  easily  supplied 
with  water. 

The  third  route  for  the  canal  is  that  which  would  con- 
nect the  Scioto  and  Sandusky  rivers.  These  streams,  passing 
nearly  in  a  north  and  south  line  through  the  centre  of  the 
state,  seem  at  first  sight  to  be  the  most  eligible  for  the  canal 
if  it  be  practicable  to  execute  it  in  this  direction.  Doubts  had 
been  entertained  concerning  the  quantity  of  water  which 
might  be  obtained  on  this  summit,  but  as  Judge  Geddes 
and  Mr.  Forrer  had  ascertained  that  most  of  the  head  wa- 
ters of  the  Great  Miami  river  might  be  brought  upon  the 
summit  level  of  this  route,  generally  designated  in  Ohio  as 
the  Tyamochte  level,  hopes  were  entertained  that  it  v  ould 
prove  practicable.  This  level  is  elevated  about  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty-four  feet  above  the  lake,  and  four  hundred 
and  fifty-five  above  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto,  whence  it  will 
require  about  eight  hundred  and  ten  feet  of  lockage.  Upon 
a  further  survey  of  the  country,  and  gaging  the  streams, 
the  commissioners  have  however  come  to  the  final  con- 
clusion, that  the  supply  of  water  on  this  route  would  pro- 
bably be  insufficient  to  overcome  the  losses  by  leakage, 
evaporation,  &c. ;  and  that  it  would  leave  no  supply  of  wa- 
ter for  the  expenditure  in  the  passage  of  boats  through  the 
locks.  In  their  calculations  they  have  assumed  as  a  basis 
the  loss  of  water  by  leakage,  evaporation,  &c.  on  the  New 
York  canals,  which  has  there  proved  much  greater  than 
had  been  anticipated,  as  it  amounts  to  an  average  of  one 
hundred  cuL  ^,  feet  per  minute,  for  every  mile  of  canal 
route.  This  amount  was  reduced  by  proper  allowances  for 
the  diflference  in  the  nature  of  the  country  through  which 
it  was  contemplated  that  the  canal  would  pass ;  but,  even 


72 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


II!'     ■ 


with  these  allowances,  they  have  been  led  to  believe,  that 
"  the  upper  levels  on  the  Sandusky  and  Scioto  route,  could 
not  be  supplied  with  the  necessary  quantity  of  water  in 
dry  seasons,  by  either  of  the  methods  proposed  and  consi- 
dered; and  the  board  after  deliberatinj^on  tht  cubject^  from 
the  facts  and  views  laid  before  them  by  the  acting  com- 
missioners, came  to  the  conclusion  that  a  further  expendi- 
ture of  time  or  money  in  locating  a  canal  line  on  the  Sandus- 
ky or  Scioto  route  would  be  inexpedient,  unless  some  other 
method  should  be  devised,  or  some  other  source  of  supply 
discovered."  It  has  therefore  become,  to  say  the  least, 
"  extremely  doubtful  whether  a  canal  on  the  Sandusky  and 
Scioto  route  can  ever  be  made." 

The  fourth  route  which  has  been  suggested,  and  which 
is  termed  the  western  route,  has  for  object  to  unite  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Great  Miami  and  Maumee  rivers,  by  means  of 
Loramie  creek  and  the  Auglaize  river.  The  summit  level 
in  this  case  will  be  elevated  three  hundred  and  eighty-nine 
feet  above  Lake  Erie,  and  five  hundred  and  forty  above 
Vne  Ohio  near  Cincinnati ;  occasioning  therefore  a  lockage 
of  about  nine  hundred  and  thirty  feet.  This  route  appears 
to  be  the  best  supplied  with  water ;  it  would  pass  through 
a  section  of  country  inferior  to  none  in  America,  in  the 
fertility  of  its  soil,  or  the  amount  of  surplus  productions 
which  it  is  capable  of  sending  to  market;  it  would  becomi* 
a  source  of  imm.ediate  and  extensive  profit,  by  the  quantity 
of  water  which  it  would  bringto  the  termination  of  the  canal 
at  Cincinnati,  affording  power  for  ex^-^nsive  and  valuable  hy- 
draulic works,  which  are  there  much  needed.  The  com- 
missioners appeJir  to  be  of  opinion  that  the  bed  of  the  river 
ought  not  to  be  pursued,  but  that  a  thorough-cut  ought  io 
be  made.  The  summit  level  would  be  in  the  vicinity  ol 
Fort  Loramie.     This  canal  would  probably  be  alrout  two 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER  S    RIVER. 


73 


to  believe,  that 
oto  route,  could 
ty  of  water  in 
losed  and  consi- 
hfc  cubiect.  from 
the  acting  com- 
'urther  expend  i- 
e  on  the  Sandus- 
nless  some  other 
(ource  of  supply 
o  say  the  least, 
le  Sandusky  and 

jsted,  and  which 

,  to  unite  the  wa- 

irs,  by  means  of 

he  summit  level 

and  eighty-nine 

and  forty  above 

refore  a  lockage 

lis  route  appears 

jld  pass  through 

America,  in  the 

)lus  productions 

it  would  become 

,,  by  the  quantify 

ation  of  the  canal 

!  and  valuable  hy- 

ded.     The  com- 

e  bed  of  the  river 

ugh-cut  ought  tC' 

n  the  vicinity  ot 

bly  be  about  two 


hundred  and  fifty  miles  long.  The  supply  of  water  would 
be  amply  sufficient  even  for  locks  of  the  size  of  those  on 
the  New  York  canal.  Allowing  the  expense  to  be  the  same 
as  in  New  York,  this  canal  would  probably  cost  about  three 
millions  of  dollars ;  but  the  experience  which  has  been  ac- 
quired in  the  construction  of  that  work,  warrants  us  in  be- 
lieving that  a  similar  undertaking  may  hereafter  be  per- 
formed at  a  more  economical  rate.  However  this  may  be, 
no  doubt  can  exist  as  to  the  benefits  which  Ohio  would  reap 
from  this  canal. 

From  all  that  has  been  stated,  it  appears  that  the  last  of 
these  routes  is  that  which  offers  at  present  the  most  decid- 
ed advantages,  but  the  plan  which  the  commissioners  have 
in  contemplation,  and  which,  if  practicable,  will  we  doubt 
not,  at  their  sug  v  tion,  be  undertaken  by  the  state  of  Ohio, 
is  one  that  would  prove  as  beneficial  to  that  state  as  it  will 
be  honourable  to  it.  This  plan  would  be  to  construct  a  canal 
which  would  unite  with  the  lake  as  near  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  state  as  nature  will  permit,  and  passing 
through  the  great  vallies  of  the  Muskingum,  the  Scioto, 
and  the  Miami,  in  a  south-westwardly  direction,  enter  the 
Ohio  near  the  south-west  corner  of  the  state.  The  com- 
missioners appear  to  be  aware  of  the  difficulties  they  will 
have  to  encounter ;  but  the  data  they  have  already  collect- 
ed on  this  subject,  are  favourable  to  the  execution  of  the 
scheme,  and  if  they  should  be  equally  successful  during 
the  summer  of  1824,  in  establishing  th  j  complete  connexion, 
they  will  have  the  honour  of  having  suggested  a  course, 
which,  if  it  be  not  adopted  at  present,  will  be  so  at  a  future 
time ;  for,  after  the  undisputed  benefits  which  canals  have 
afforded  wherever  they  have  been  made,  it  is  impossible 
to  doubt  that,  with  the  great  natural  advantages  which  she 
possesses,  Ohio  will  be  among  the  first  to  enlist  herself 

Vol.  J.  10 


!!'l 


mm 


74 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


among  the  patrons  of  an  extensive  system  of  internal  im- 
provement 

After  crossing  Loramie's  creek  two  or  three  times, 
we  reached  St.  Mary*s  river,  which  unites  at  Fort  Wayne 
with  the  St.  Joseph  to  form  the  Maumee.  The  his- 
torical recollections  which  connect  themselves  with  the 
section  of  country  through  which  we  travelled,  compensate 
for  the  little  interest  which  it  offers  to  the  naturalist.  To  him 
nothing  can  he  more  annoying  than  to  pass  over  a  marshy, 
swampy  country,  where  no  rocks  appear  in  situ,  and  where 
but  few  boulders  are  met  with ;  where  the  animals  are 
few  in  number,  and  apparently  afraid  to  risk  themselves  in 
spots  in  which  their  speed  would  avail  them  but  little.  It 
is  true,  that  the  pursuits  of  the  botanist  might  have  been 
carried  on  successfully,  in  a  situation  where  an  abundant 
growth  of  plants  would  probably  have  offered  him  objects 
worthy  of  his  notice ;  and  this  would  have  compensated 
the  rest  of  the  party  for  the  appai'ently  uninteresting  cha- 
racter of  the  country ;  for,  in  an  expedition  of  the  nature 
of  ours,  the  success  of  each  individual  in  his  peculiar 
pursuit,  becomes  a  source  of  gratification  to  all.  Being, 
however,  unaccompanied  by  a  botanist,  we  found  in  this 
part  of  Ohio  nothing  to  interest  us  but  the  recollection 
of  the  busy  scenes  of  war  which  had  at  a  former  time 
been  enacted  in  this  district.  As  the  principal  field  upon 
which  all  the  military  operations  of  Generals  St.  Clair, 
V/ayne,  and  Harrison,  were  conducted,  there  is  much 
cause  to  dwell  with  pleasure  upon  the  spot.  A  vast  dif- 
ference exists,  however,  between  the  theatre  of  an  Indian 
warfare  and  that  of  the  military  undertakings  of  civilized 
nations.  The  descriptions  of  the  spots,  upon  which  the 
latter  occur,  are  so  much  more  accurate  that  they  never 
can  be  mistaken  ;  while  of  the  former  we  seldom  know  the 


sorRCE  OF  ST.  Peter's  river. 


75 


of  internal  im- 


exact  site.  Even  the  history  of  the  defensive  works  which 
were  erected,  soon  loses  part  of  its  interest  by  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  works  themselves.  We  read  of  the  deeds  done 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Fort  Loramie  by  the  French,  or 
of  the  Miami  villages  by  St  Clair,  but  if  we  travel  over 
the  ground,  we  find  but  few  traces  of  these  deeds.  At 
Fort  St.  Mary,  which  was  one  of  General  Harrison's 
principal  depots  in  1813  and  1814,  we  see  but  the  re- 
mains of  a  half-ruined  blockhouse,  and  of  a  very  miserable 
hut  surrounded  by  pickets,  which  are  fast  falling  to  decay. 
A  few  years  more  and  the  remains  of  these  works  will  be 
sought  for  by  the  traveller  as  unsuccessfully  as  we  now 
search  for  the  spots  upon  which  St.  Clair  fought,  and 
Wayne  conquered.  A  young  growth  of  trees  is  rising, 
which,  if  not  levelled  by  the  axe  o^  the  forester,  will  soon 
conceal  the  last  traces  of  the  clearing,  made  by  Wayne  for 
the  advance  of  his  army,  which  was  pointed  out  to  us  as 
Wayne's  road.  The  party  arrived  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
24th  of  May  at  Fort  St.  Mary,  just  in  time  to  avoid  a 
heavy  rain.  A  solitary  log-house  marks  the  spot  wher ; 
a  little  village  formerly  thrived,  under  the  protection  of 
the  French  fort,  erected  at  this  place.  It  stands  on  St. 
Mary's  river,  at  a  distance  of  fifty-eight  miles  by  land 
from  Fort  Wayne;  the  distance  by  water  is  probably  about 
one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  miles.  The  river  is  naviga- 
ble, during  half  the  year,  for  large  boats,  carrying  from 
one  to  two  hundred  barrels ;  during  the  rest  of  the  year,  in 
dry  seasons,  there  is  scarcely  water  enough  in  it  to  float  a 
canoe,  and  its  course  is  very  much  impeded  by  driftwood. 
A  little  limestone  of  a  very  inferior  quality  has  been  found 
on  the  river  bank,  below  the  fort.  From  Piqua  to  St. 
Mary  the  soil  is  only  of  second  quality,  being  in  many 
places  too  wet  and  swampy  for  f^rSiin.    The  weather  had 


76 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


m 


h:come  very  hot ;  at  noon,  Fahrenheit's  theniiiomrtcr  sto  id 
ill  the  shade  at  eighty-eight  degrees.  Our  pcrrty  jpjiaii  to 
suffer  much  from  the  inconvenience  of  mosquitoes  and 
other  insects.  The  entertainmeal  which  we  received 
along  the  road  was  observed  to  become  more  and  more 
rough,  and  to  denote  our  speedy  approach  to  the  lo^t 
limits  of  civilization.  The  cotton-wood  tree  became 
much  larger  as  we  advanced.  Mr.  Say  noticed  the  Pai;ilio 
thoas  and  ajax  in  great  number. 

On  leaving,  on  the  25th  May,  the  miserable  hut  which 
had  afforded  us  a  shelter  during  the  storm,  our  route  led 
us  along  the  banks  of  the  St.  Mary,  which  we  followed 
down  to  its  confluence  with  the  St  Joseph,  occasionally 
coming  in  sight  of  the  river  and  keeping  off  from  it,  at 
times,  according  as  its  course  was  a  straight  or  devious 
one ;  we  travelled  for  twelve  miles  over  the  swamjvy  coun- 
try through  which  this  river  flows,  after  which  v  e  struck 
a  beautiful  dry  prairie,  known  by  the  name  of  Shane's 
prairie,  and  at  eighteen  miles  from  Fort  St  Maiy  wc 
crossed  the  river  at  a  settlement  called  Shanesville ;  both 
the  prairie  and  settlement,  (which  consists  of  hut  one  fa- 
mily,) owe  their  appellation  to  an  interpreter,  who  is  a 
half-breed  Indian,  his  fa''^"''  was  a  Canadian,  his  mother 
an  6't-f  i-w4  .*  He  wai^ »  r  aioyed  as  an  interpreter  and  spy 
by  General  Harrison,  during  his  western  campaigns,  and 
is  considered  as  having  acquitted  himself  of  his  duties 
faithfully ;  on  the  conclusion  of  the  war  he  was  rewarded 
by  the  grant  of  a  section,  (six  hundred  and  forty  acres,)  of 
land,  which  he  has  divided  into  town  lots;  he  resides 


•  Whenever  an  Indian  word  occurs  for  the  first  time,  its  orthography 
and  proiiunciation  will  be  indicated  by  using  Walker's  key.  The  sign 
(')  prefixed  to  a  vowel  indicates  that  it  is  short,  while  the  sign  (') 
shows  it  to  be  long,  the  unaccented  vowels  have  the  usual  quantity. 


:r^:^j^^ 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


7T 


within  a  short  dis^ince  of  Shanesville  on  part  o^'hl;.  gianL 
The  soil  being  consid  red  of  the  bf^st  quality,  and  the  sito- 
ation  on  the  river  an  advantageous  one,  he  has  tdread j'^  sold 
out  some  parts  of  it.  No  man  is  better  known  in  this  part 
of  the  country  than  Shane ;  his  influence  among  the  Indians 
is  great,  and  he  enjoys  a  high  degree  of  popularity  with 
the  whites,  founded  upon  the  uniformly  good  character 
which  he  maintained  during  the  war,  and  upon  the 
unbounded  confidence  reposed  in  him  by  Genera)  Harrison. 
He  was  absent  from  home  at  the  time  we  passed  there,  but 
we  afterwards  met  with  him  at  Fort  Wayne. 

The  late  heavy  rains  had  so  much  swelled  the  St.  Mary 
that  it  was  impossible  to  ford  it.  We  passed  it  in  a  canoe 
—our  horses  swam  across.  Fourteen  miles  of  bad  roads, 
leading  however  through  a  country  remarkable  for  the 
excellence  of  its  soil,  and  for  its  fine  luxuriant  growth  of 
white  and  black  oak,  beach,  hickory,  shellbark,&c.  brought 
us  to  a  new  settlement,  where,  notwithstanding  the  badness 
of  the  accommodations,  we  were  happy  to  find  a  hospitable 
reception.  Near  to  this  house  we  passed  the  state  line, 
which  divides  Ohio  from  Indiana.  In  the  state  of  Ohio 
we  met  with  no  Indians.  Their  numbers  appear  to  be 
diminishing  very  rapidly.  We  were  informed  that  they 
do  not  exceed  two  thousand,  consisting  principally  of 
Ottawas,  Miamis,  Senecas,  Wyandots,  &c.  This  neigh- 
bourhood abounds,  as  we  were  informed,  in  wolves,  deer, 
and  raccoons ;  bears  are  few,  and  the  panther  is  seldom  seun ; 
we  met  with  no  wild  animal  whatever,  on  this  part  of  our 
route.  The  distance  from  this  to  Fort  Wayne  is  twenty- 
four  miles,  without  a  settlement;  the  country  is  so  wet 
that  we  scarcely  saw  an  acre  of  land  upon  which  a  settle- 
ment could  be  made.  We  travelled  for  a  couple  of  miles 
with  our  horses  wading  through  water,  sometimes  to  the 


^'4 


■■4,.? 


78 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


\^mi 


girth.  Haying  found  a  small  patch  of  tame  grass,  (which 
l^om  its  colour,  is  known  here  by  the  name  of  blue-grass,) 
we  attempted  to  stop  and  pasture  our  horses,  but  this  we 
found  impossible  on  account  of  the  immense  swarms  of 
mosquitoes,  (Culex,)  and  horseflies,  ( TabantiSy)  which 
tormented  both  horses  and  riders  in  a  manner  that  ex- 
cluded all  possibility  of  rest 

At  a  distance  of  about  nine  miles  from  Fort  Wayne,  we 
observed  a  large  ash  which  had  been  blown  down,  the  tree 
had  been  divided  in  two,  in  part  of  its  length;  a  small  trough 
had  been  excavated  in  it,  in  which  an  Indian  child  had  been 
deposited,  the  upper  segment  of  the  tree  had  been  replac- 
ed to  cover  the  corpse,  and  the  whole  secured  by  a  neat 
little  frame.  This  rude  grave  had  been  torn  open,  doubtless 
by  some  white  man,  to  rob  it  of  the  trifles  with  which  the 
tenderness  of  an  Indian  parent  supplies  its  ofl*spring  when 
about  to  travel  to  the  land  of  spirits ;  the  deceased  must 
have  be^n  an  infant,  for  the  trough  was  not  more  than 
twelve  inches  long.  We  w  .?re  informed  that  among  the 
Potawatomis,  this  is  a  frequent,  though  not  an  universal 
mode  of  di;-posing  of  their  dead.  These  solid  coi&ns  or 
rude  sarcophages  are  often  suspended  in  trees. 

We  arrived  al  Fort  Wayne  at  an  early  hour  in  the  after- 
noon of  the  26th  of  May.  The  distance  from  Wheeling 
to  Columbus  is  one  hundred  and  forty  miles-,  which  we 
travelled  in  six  days,  that  from  Columbus  to  Fort  Wayne 
as:^ounts  to  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  miles,  which  were 
performed  in  the  same  time,  making  an  average  of  twenty- 
five  2i>.'Ie3  per  day. 


SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETER'S   RIVER. 


79 


CHAPTER  III. 

Description  of  Fort  Wayne  and  its  vicinity.  Fur  trade. 

Potawatomis, 


AT  Fort  Wayne  we  made  a  stay  of  three  days,  during 
which  our  time  was  usefully  and  agreeably  employed  in 
acquiring  some  information  concerning  the  manners  and 
institutions  of  the  Indian  tribes  which  inhabit  its  vicinity. 
To  a  person  visiting  the  Indian  country  for  the  first  time, 
this  place  offered  many  characteristic  and  singular  features. 
The  town  or  village  is  small ;  it  has  grown  under  the  shel- 
ter of  the  fort,  and  contains  a  mixed  and  apparently  very 
worthless  population.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  of  Cana- 
dian origin,  all  more  or  less  imbued  with  Indian  blood. 
Not  being  previously  aware  of  the  diversity  in  the  charac' 
ter  of  the  inhabitants,  the  sudden  change  from  an  Ameri- 
can to  a  French  population,  has  a  surprising,  and  to  say  the 
least,  an  unpleasant  effect;  for  the  first  twenty-four  hours, 
the  traveller  fancies  himself  in  a  real  Babel.  The  confu- 
sion of  languages,  owing  to  the  diversity  of  Indian  tribes 
which  generally  collect  near  a  fort,  is  not  removed  by  an 
intercourse  with  their  half-savage  interpreters.  The  busi- 
ness of  a  town  of  this  kind  differs  so  materially  from  that 
carried  on  in  our  cities,  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  fane . 
ourselves  still  within  the  same  territorial  limits ;  but  the 
disgust  which  we  entertain  at  the  degraded  condition  in 
which  the  white  man,  the  descendant  of  the  European,  ap- 
pears, is  perhaps  the  strongest  sensation  which  we  expe- 


iO 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


rience,  it  absorbs  all  others.  To  see  a  being  in  whom,  from 
his  complexion  and  features,  we  should  expect  to  find  the 
same  feelings  which  swell  in  the  bosom  of  every  refined 
man,  throwing  oflf  his  civilized  habits  to  assume  the  garb  of 
a  savage,  has  something  which  partakes  of  the  ridiculous, 
as  well  as  of  the  disgusting.  The  awkward  and  constrain- 
ed appearance  of  those  Frenchmen  who  had  exchanged 
their  usual  dress  for  the  breech-cloth  and  blanket,  was  as 
risible  as  that  of  the  Indian  who  assumes  the  tight-bodied 
coat  of  white  men.  The  feelings  which  we  experienced 
while  beholding  a  little  Canadian  stooping  down  to  pack 
up  and  weigh  the  hides  which  an  Indian  had  brought  for 
sale,  while  th;  laiter  stood  in  an  erect  and  commanding  pos- 
ture, were  of  a  mixed  and  certainly  not  of  a  favourable  na- 
ture. At  each  unusual  motion  of  the  white  man's,  his 
dress,  which  he  had  not  properly  secured,  was  disturbed, 
and  while  engaged  in  restoring  it  to  its  proper  place,  he 
was  the  butt  of  the  jokes  and  gibes  of  a  number  of  squaws 
and  Indian  boys,  who  seemed  already  to  be  aware  of  the 
vast  difference  which  exists  between  them  and  the  Cana- 
dian Fur-dealer.  The  village  is  exclusively  supported  by 
the  fur  trade,  and  will  probably  continue  to  thrive  as  long 
as  the  Indians  remain  in  any  number  in  this  vicinity.  It 
has,  however,  declined  from  year  to  year,  owing  to  the 
gradual  diminution  of  the  Indian  population.  The  traders 
seldom  leave  the  town,  but  they  have  a  number  of  Cana- 
dians in  their  service,  known  by  the  appellation  of  En- 
gag  eSy  who  accompany  the  Indians  during  their  summer 
hunts,  supply  them  with  goods  in  small  quantities,  and  keep 
an  eye  upon  them,  so  that  they  should  not  defraud  their  em- 
ployers by  selling  to  others  the  produce  of  their  hunts.  The 
furs  brought  here  consist  principally  of  deer  and  raccoon 
skins;  bear,  otter,  and  beaver,  have  become  very  rare.  The 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETEB  S    RIVBR. 


81 


sliins,  when  brought  by  the  Indians,  are  loosely  tied  or 
rolled;  they  are  separated,  folded,  and  made  into  packn 
three  feet  long  and  eighteen  inches  wide,  which  are  ex- 
posed to  a  heavy  pressure  under  a  wedge  press.  These 
packs  generally  contain  from  forty  to  fifty  deer  skins,  and 
about  two  hundred  raccoon  skins.  Bear  skins  being  rare, 
are  not  put  up  in  packs,  but  are  used  to  cover  the  other 
furs.  The  prices  of  skins  vary  every  season,  according  to 
their  quality  and  abundance.  In  1823,  the  skins  were 
worth  at  Fort  Wayne — 

For  Deer,  (bucks,)  -  -  -  iill  25 

(does,)        -  -  -  -       1  00 

Raccoon        -  -  -  -  so 

Bear        -  -  -  ig  3  00  to  5  00 

The  amount  of  furs  annually  made  up  at  this  post  is,  as 
we  were  informed  by  a  competent  and  disinterested  judge, 
about  two  hundred  packs,  the  average  value  of  which  may 
be  fifty  dollai's  each,  making  an  aggregate  of  ten  tliou- 
sand  dollars.  But  this  value  is  rather  a  nominal  than  a 
real  one,  as  the  furs  are  paid  for  to  the  Indians  at  the  prices 
just  quoted,  in  goods  which  are  passed  off  to  them  at  a 
value  at  least  double  the  amount  of  prime  cost  and  expense 
of  transportation.  So  that  to  the  dealer  the  real  expense 
attending  the  purchase  of  the  furs  does  not  amount  to  one- 
half  of  their  nominal  value.  They  are  usually  sent  down 
the  Maumee  to  Lake  Erie,  and  thence  to  Detroit,  where  they 
are  for  the  most  part  purchased  by  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany. At  the  time  when  we  visited  Fort  Wayne,  the 
number  of  Indians  there  was  considerable.  This  is  one  of 
the  stations  at  which  the  Potawatomis,  Miamis,  &c.  re- 
ceive their  annuities.  The  late  Indian  agent,  Mr.  Hays, 
was  on  the  point  of  leaving  the  post,  previously  to  which 
he  was  desirous  of  paying  them  an  annuity,  but  this  being 

Vol.  I.  U 


82 


EXPEDITION   TO   TUE 


the  time  of  the  year  when  they  attend  to  their  farming 
avocations,  the  chiefs  had  used  their  influence  to  keep  their 
people  from  going  to  the  fort.  This  delay  prevented  the 
immediate  distribution  of  the  annuity,  and  offered  to 
the  most  idle  and  worthless  of  the  tribes  an  inducement 
and  an  excuse  for  frequenting  the  town. 

Fort  Wayne,  as  it  now  stands,  was  erected  in  1814,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  fort,  the  situation  of  which  had  been  selected 
by  General  Wnyne  after  his  victory  over  the  Indians.  It 
is  a  square  palisade,  protected  at  two  of  its  angles  by  block 
houses,  calculated  to  be  defended  with  artillery.  The  fort 
is  considered  as  a  good  specimen  of  stockade  fortification, 
which  answers  very  well  as  a  defence  in  Indian  warfare.  An 
improvement  which  it  possesses,  and  which  these  works 
do  not  all  present,  is  that  of  giving  to  the  roofs  of  the  bar- 
racks and  other  buildings  enclosed  by  the  palisade  an 
inclination  in  one  direction  only,  and  this  towards  the  area 
of  the  work;  the  advantage  of  which  is  to  afford  to  the 
besieged  a  protection  against  their  assailants,  when  forced 
to  ascend  the  roofs,  in  order  to  put  out  fires  occasioned  by 
arrows  conveying  combustibles  to  the  tops  of  houses,  as  is 
frequently  practised  by  the  Indians.  The  fort  lies  on  the  east 
side  of  St  Mary  river,  immediately  opposite  to  its  junction 
with  the  St.  Joseph.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Maumee  we 
were  shown  the  spot  rendered  conspicuous  by  the  defeat  of 
General  Harmer's  army  in  1791.  This  might,  we  think, 
more  correctly  be  called  Harden  s  defeat,  as  by  the  account 
of  it  furnished  both  by  Marshall  and  Ramsay,  it  appears 
that  the  detachment  that  was  cut  up  was  commanded  by 
Colonel  Harden.*  Indeed,  the  whole  of  Lhe  country  about 
the  upper  part  of  the  Grand  Miami  and  Maumee,  (generally 


•  Marghall's  life  of  Washington,  Vol.  3.  p.  302. 


SOURCE    OP   ST.    PETER  S   RIVER. 


8S 


called  in  the  history  of  that  war  the  Miami  and  Miami  of 
the  lake,)  is  interesting,  as  being  the  theatre  of  the  war 
which  raged  from  1791  to  1794,  when  a  stop  was  put  to  it 
by  the  great  victory  achieved  by  General  Wayne  over  the 
confederated  Indian  nations,  on  the  90th  of  August  of  that 
year.  This  may  be  considered  as  one  of  the  most  memo- 
rable events  in  our  history,  since  the  close  of  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  as  it  was  obtained  in  front  of  a  British  fort 
which  had  been  erected  at  the  Maumee  rapids  evidently 
for  the  protection  of  the  Indians. 

General  Wayne's  victory  was  soon  followed  by  the  treaty 
of  Greenville,  concluded  by  him  in  the  succeeding  year; 
a  treaty  "  by  which  the  expensive  and  destructive  war 
which  had  long  desolated  that  frontier,  was  ended  in  a 
manner  perfectly  agreeable  to  the  United  States." 

The  situation  of  Fort  Wayne  was  considered  at  the  time 
of  that  treaty,  as  a  favourable  one  to  keep  the  Indians  in 
check,  and  prevent  the  recurrence  of  the  hostile  measures 
which  terminated  in  that  treaty.  It  was  one  of  the  most 
advanced  posts  of  the  cordon  which  was  drawn  along  the 
western  limits  of  Ohio  for  the  protection  of  the  frontiers. 
It  must  be  admitted  that  its  position  is  a  very  judicious  one 
for  a  work  of  this  kind,  although  it  would  be  very  impro- 
per in  a  war  with  an  enemy  possessed  of  artillery,  as  it  is 
commanded  by  several  eminences  in  the  vicinity.  During 
the  late  war,  it  was  besieged  for  some  time  by  the  Indians, 
and  a  few  men  were  killed  on  both  sides.  The  garrison 
having  made  resistance,  the  Indians  cut  a  log  into  the 
form  of  a  field-piece,  painted  it  black,  and  placed  it  on 
one  of  the  heights  within  gunshot  of  the  fort ;  they  then 
summoned  the  garrison  to  surrender.  Although  aware  that 
all  resistance  against  artillery  would  be  vain,  the  officer  in 
command  refused  to  comply  with  the  summons.  When  the 


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64 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


Indians  finding  their  ruse  de  guerre  to  be  unsuccessful, 
raised  the  siege. 

No  garrison  is  at  present  kept  up  at  this  place,  and  it 
is  probable  that  even  in  the  case  of  a  future  war,  this  post 
like  many  others,  formerly  considered  of  great  importance, 
will  be  so  surrounded  with  a  white  population,  as  to  render 
any  military  force  in  itr,  vicinity  unnecessary.  The  works 
offer  now  a  comfortable  and  suitable  residence  to  the  gen- 
tlemen attached  to  the  Indian  department.  The  removal  of 
the  garrison,  and  the  decrease  of  the  fur  trade,  will  proba- 
bly affect  for  a  while  the  growth  of  the  settlement.  But  it 
will  eventually  resume  the  importance  to  which  it  is  enti- 
tled from  its  advantageous  situation ;  as  a  central  point  at 
which  three  respectable  streams  connect,  it  must  become 
the  seat  of  an  extensive  trade.  The  St.  Mary  being  navi- 
gable during  part  of  the  year  for  one  hundred  and  thirty 
miles,  the  St.  Joseph  for  fifty  miles,  and  the  Maumee 
offering  during  the  spring,  to  boats  carrying  three  hundred 
barrels,  a  free  navigation  along  the  whole  of  its  course  to 
Lake  Erie,  (one  hundred  and  sixty  miles,)  a  considerable 
quantity  of  produce  will  necessarily  pass  at  Wayne.  The 
prosperity  of  the  town  will  be  increased  by  the  arrange- 
ments made  by  the  government  of  the  United  States  for 
the  sale  of  the  public  land  in  the  vicinity.  At  the  time  we 
I  assed  through,  we  were  informed  that  all  the  land  about 
the  village,  and  even  that  upon  which  it  stands,  was  public 
property,  but  that  orders  had  been  issued  to  sell  the 
whole,  with  the  exception  of  about  thirty  acres  near  the 
fort,  which  were  reserved  for  the  use  of  the  Indian  agency. 
This  accounted  for  the  mean  appearance  of  the  houses,  which 
are  of  log,  rudely  put  up,  the  roofs  being  made  of  clap  boards 
kept  down  by  logs.  No  person  felt  inclined  to  lay  out  money 
in  building  on  property  which  could  not  be  sold.  The  point 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PKTER's   RIVER. 


65 


of  land  upon  which  the  town  stands  appears  to  be  sandy, 
and  of  an  inferior  quality,  but  we  were  told  that  a  very  ex- 
cellent soil  prevailed  in  the  vicinity.  It  was  expected  that 
the  property  would  sell  well,  and  it  was  thought  that  the 
ijuarter  section,  (160  acres,)  upon  which  the  town  is  situat- 
ed, would  yield  at  public  sale  ten  thousand  dollars.  We 
were  somewhat  surprised  to  find  that  the  inhabitants  of  the 
town  expressed  no  dissatisfaction  at  the  prospect  of  the 
sale  of  a  property  upon  which  they  had  been  residing,  free 
of  rent,  for  so  many  years,  and  that  not  the  least  question 
was  raised  as  to  the  justice  or  propriety  of  a  measure,  by 
which  they  were  about  to  be  dispossessed  of  the  small  im- 
provements which  had  been  made  by  their  fathers  and 
themselves.  But  the  population  of  Wayne  partakes  in  this 
respect  of  the  indifference  and  carelessness  that  charac- 
terize the  two  races  from  the  admixture  of  which  they 
have  sprung.  A  circumstance  which  v.  ill  add  considerably 
to  the  future  prosperity  of  Wayne,  is  its  being  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  short  portage  of  eight  miles  which  sepa- 
rates the  Maumee  from  the  Wabash.  An  extensive  trade 
has  already  been  carried  on  through  this  route,  and  as  it 
offers  the  most  direct  communication  between  the  head  of 
Lake  Erie  and  the  northern  parts  of  Indiana,  it  will  doubt- 
less daily  increase  in  importance. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Wayne,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  we  were  shown  a  small  tree  growing  on  the  spot 
where  "  Little  Turtle"  was  buried.  This  was  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  Indian  chiefs  ever  known  to  white  men. 
His  character  is  well  remembered  by  the  old  residents 
among  the  Indians,  and  from  the  accounts  which  have  been 
given  of  him,  we  find  but  few  names  on  record  in  the  his- 
tory of  Indian  chiefs  that  can  be  compared  with  his.  His 
character  will  contrast  advantageously  with  those  of  King 


86 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


Philip,  Pontiac,  and  Tecumseh.  The  influence  which  he 
appears  to  have  possessed  over  the  Indians  was  unbounded. 
Under  these  circumstances,  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  all  the 
factii  connected  with  his  life  and  character,  have  not  been 
collected  with  care.  He  is  the  same  whom  Volney 
describes  as  having  met  with  in  Philadelphia  in  the  year 
1798.  From  the  abstract  furnished  us  by  this  able  traveller 
of  the  conversations  which  he  had  with  Little  Turtle  and 
with  his  interpreter,  captain  Wells,  we  are  led  to  form  a 
very  high  opinion  of  the  sound  philosophy,  and  excellent 
judgment  possessed  by  this  chief.  Of  his  military  talents 
we  can  entertain  no  doubt,  since  it  is  well  ascertained  that 
to  him  is  chiefly  to  be  ascribed  the  success  which  the  In- 
dians met  with  during  the  years  1791  and  1792.  Like  King 
Philip,  Tecumseh,  &c.  he  is  said  to  have  entertained  at 
one  time  the  hope  of  forming  an  extensive  coalition  among 
the  Indians,  with  a  view  to  retrieve  the  soil  of  which  they 
had  been  so  unjustly  deprived ;  but  meeting  with  difiiculties 
which  he  probably  foresaw  would  be  invincible,  he,  with 
more  foresight  than  either  of  those  chiefs,  soon  discovered 
that  the  day  for  such  measures  had  long  since  passed  away, 
and  that  the  only  advisable  course,  which  remained  for  his 
nation  to  adopt,  would  be  to  make  peace  with  the  invaders, 
and  endeavour  to  improve  by  their  superior  information. 
In  this  manner  he  succeeded  in  rescuing  them  from 
that  destruction,  to  which  King  Philip  and  Tecumseh  were 
hurrying  on  their  brethren,  at  the  time  that  they  themselves 
became  victims  to  the  wars  which  they  had  been  instru- 
mental in  producing.  Doubtless  his  great  spirit  flattered 
itself  with  the  hope,  that  by  an  advancement  in  the  arts  of 
civilized  life,  his  brethren  would  regain  that  importance 
which  they  seemed  to  be  on  the  point  of  losing  for  ever. 
His  mind  had  predicted  the  awful  consequences  of  the  ap- 


SOURCE    OP   ST.    PETER'S    RIVER. 


87 


preach  of  white  men.  "  No  wonder,"  said  he,  "  the  whites 
drive  us  every  year  further  and  further  before  them,  from 
the  sea  to  the  Mississippi.  They  spread  like  oil  on  a  blan- 
ket ;  and  we  melt  like  snow  before  the  sun.  If  things  do  not 
greatly  change,  the  red  men  will  disappear  very  shortly." 
How  well-founded  this  apprehension  has  proved,  and  how 
rapidly  the  prediction  has  been  verified,  let  the  experience 
of  every  traveller  to  the  west  attest. 

Little  Turtle  died  in  the  year  1804  or  1805,  and  his  death 
at  that  time  is  very  much  to  be  regretted,  as  the  attach- 
ment which  he  had  contracted  for  the  American  nation  had 
become  so  great,  that  it  is  presumed  he  would  have  used 
his  influence,  which  was  very  great,  to  prevent  the  Indians 
of  that  vicinity  from  joining  the  British  during  the  late 
war ;  and  no  doubt  can  be  entertained  that  a  peaceful 
policy,  if  supported  by  a  man  of  his  weight,  would  have 
prevailed. 

The  naturalists  to  the  expedition  being  aware  that  few 
or  no  skulls  of  Indians  exist  in  the  collections  of  our  At- 
lantic cities,  were  desirous  of  procuring  some,  and  among 
others  they  would  have  been  pleased  to  obtain  that  of  this 
celebrated  chief.  would,  in  their  opinion,  have  been  in- 
terest! .g  to  observe,  whether  the  examination  of  this  head 
would  have  afforded  any  support  to  the  new,  and  as  yet 
uncertain,  science  of  Phrenology.  The  principal  traits 
which  have  been  collected  of  the  character  of  Little  Tur- 
tle, might  have  been  compared  with  the  developements  of 
the  brain,  and  this  comparison  would  perhaps  have  led  to 
some  interesting  results.  They  were  likewise  in  hopes, 
that  by  disintering  it  they  might  have  rescued,  (for  a  while 
at  least,)  from  final  decay,  the  head  of  one  of  the  greatest 
men  who,  to  our  knowledge,  have  adorned  the  character  of 
the  American  aborigines.     But  upon  consulting  with  the 


88 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


I 


FiM. 


''''I'll 

nil  ifinltl 


gentlemen  of  the  Indian  department,  they  found  that  the 
memory  of  Little  Turtle  was  so  much  revered  by  his  na- 
tion, and  the  visits  of  Indians  to  the  grave  of  departed 
friends  were  so  frequent,  that  such  an  attempt  could  not 
pass  unnoticed,  and  that  this  apparent  sacrilege  would  doubt- 
less irritate  them,  and  might  lead  to  unpleasant  consequences. 
The  hope  of  obtaining  this  head  was  therefore  abandoned. 

The  expedition  was  as  kindly  treated  as  they  could  have 
wished,  by  the  gentlemen  attached  to  the  Indian  depart- 
ment at  this  place.  General  Tipton,  (the  present  Indian 
agent,)  and  Mr.  Hays,  (the  late  agent,)  afforded  them  all 
the  facilities  in  their  power ;  and  to  Mr.  Kercheval,  the 
sub-agent,  they  are  under  great  obligations  for  the  infor- 
mation which  his  long  experience  of  the  Indians,  and  his 
acquaintance  with  their  language  enabled  him  to  commu- 
nicate. In  order  to  afford  to  the  party  an  opportunity  of  ob- 
taining the  best  information.  General  Tipton  sent  for  one 
of  the  principal  chiefs  in  that  vicinity,  with  whom  they 
conversed  for  two  days. 

The  name  of  this  man  is  M^6-f 64',  (which  signifies  in 
the  Potawatomi  language,  Kiss  me.  J  He  was  represented 
to  us  as  being  the  greatest  chief  of  the  nation ;  we  had, 
however,  an  opportunity  of  ascertaining  afterwards,  that 
he  is  not  the  principal  chief,  but  that  he  has,  by  his  talents 
as  a  warrior,  and  his  eloquence  as  an  orator,  obtained  con- 
siderable influence  in  the  councils  of  his  nation.  He  may 
be  considered  as  a  partisan,  who,  by  hi:,  military  achieve- 
ments, has  secured  to  himself  the  command  of  an  indepen- 
dent tribe.  He  resides  on  the  St.  Joseph,  about  nine  miles 
above  Fort  Wayne,  at  an  Indian  village  called  MAs-kwd- 
w^4-8^6-p^6-6'-t'&n,  (town  of  the  old  red  wood  creek.  J  Be- 
ing a  chief  of  distinction,  he  came  accompanied  by  his  bro- 
ther; as  his  rank  required  that  he  should  be  assisted  by 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETER's    RIVER. 


89 


sdme  one  to  light  his  pipe,  and  perform  such  other  duties 
as  always  devolve  upon  attendants.  Metea  appears  to  be  a 
man  of  about  forty  or  forty-five  years  of  age ;  he  is  a  full- 
blooded  Potawatomi ;  his  stature  is  about  six  feet ;  he  has 
a  forbidding  aspect,  by  no  means  deficient  in  dignity ;  his 
features  are  strongly  marked,  and  expressive  of  a  haughty 
and  tyrannical  disposition ;  his  complexion  is  dark ;  like 
most  of  the  Potawatomis  whom  we  met  with,  he  is  charac- 
terized by  alow,  aquiline,  and  well-shaped  nose;  his  eyes 
are  small,  elongated,  and  black ;  they  are  not  set  widely 
apart;  his  forehead  is  low  and  receding;  the  facial  angle 
amounts  to  about  80°.  His  hair  is  black,  and  indicates  a 
slight  tendency  to  curl ;  his  cheek  bones  are  remarkably 
high  and  prominent,  even  for  those  of  an  Indian ;  they  are 
not,  however,  angular,  but  present  very  distinctly  the 
rounded  appearance  which  distinguishes  the  aboriginal 
American  from  the  Asiatic.  His  mouth  is  large,  the  upper 
lip  prominent ;  there  is  something  unpleasant  in  his  looks, 
owing  to  his  opening  one  of  his  eyes  wider  than  the  other, 
and  to  a  scar  which  he  has  iy)on  the  wing  of  his  nostril.  On 
first  inspection,  his  countenance  would  be  considered  as  ex- 
pressive of  defiance  and  impetuous  daring,  but  upon  closer 
scrutiny,  it  is  found  rather  to  announce  obstinate  constancy 
of  purpose,  and  sullen  fortitude.  We  behold  in  him  all  the 
characteristics  of  the  Indian  warrior  to  perfection.  If  ever 
an  expression  of  pity  or  of  the  kinder  affections  belonged 
to  his  countenance,  it  has  been  driven  away  by  the  scenes 
of  bloodshed  and  cruelty  through  which  he  has  passed. 
His  dress  was  old  and  somewhat  dirty,  but  appeared  to 
have  been  arranged  upon  his  person  with  no  small  degree 
of  care ;  it  consisted  of  leather  leggings  buttoned  on  the 
outside,  a  breech-cloth  of  blue  broadcloth,  and  a  short 
checkered  shirt  over  it;  the  whole  was  covered  with  a 
Vol.  I.  12 


in 


90 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


blanket,  wliich  was  secured  round  his  waist  by  a  belt,  and 
hung  not  ungracefully  from  his  shoulders  ;  generally  con- 
cealing his  right  arm,  which  is  rendered  useless  and  some- 
what withered,  from  a  wound  received  during  the  late  war, 
when  he  attacked  with  a  small  party  of  Indians,  the  force 
that  was  advancing  to  the  relief  of  Fort  Wayne.  His  face 
was  carefully  painted  with  vermillion  round  ^lis  left  eye. 
Four  feathers,  coloured  without  taste,  hung  behind  him 
secured  to  a  string,  wbich  was  tied  to  a  lock  of  his  hai ".  In 
our  second  interview  with  him,  he  wore  a  red  and  white 
feather  in  his  head,  that  wis  covered  with  other  orna- 
ments equally  deficient  in  taste.  Mr,  Seymour  took  a 
likeness  of  him,  which  was  considered  a  very  striking  one, 
by  all  who  knew  Metea.  (Plate  III.) 

The  chief  was  accompanied  by  his  brother,  who  is  much 
younger  and  resembles  him,  but  whose  features  indicate  a 
more  amiable  and  interesting  disposition.  We  observed, 
that  during  the  interview,  the  latter  treated  Metea  with 
much  respect,  always  preparing  and  lighting  his  pipe,  and 
never  interfering  in  the  conversation,  unless  when  addressed 
by  the  chief.  On  entering  the  room  where  the  gentlemen 
of  the  party  were,  Metea  shook  hands  with  the  agent,  but 
took  no  notice  of  the  rest  of  the  company,  until  General 
Tipton  had  explained  to  him,  through  his  interpreter,  the 
nature  of  the  expedition ;  the  objects  of  his  great  father,  the 
President,  in  sending  it  among  the  Indians ;  and  the  infor- 
mation which  v/ould  be  expected  from  him ;  he  informed 
him  likewise  that  his  time  and  trouble  would  be  suitably 
rewarded.  The  chief  then  arose  from  his  seat,  shook  hands 
with  all  who  were  present,  told  them  that  he  would  very 
willingly  reply  to  all  their  questions,  but  that  according  to 
usage,  he  was  bound  to  repeat  to  his  nation  all  the  questions 
that  would  be;|^ked,  and  the  replies  which  he  would  make; 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER  S   RIVER. 


91 


by  a  belt,  and 
generally  con- 
iless  and  some- 
ng  the  late  war, 
lians,  the  force 
lyne.     His  face 
d  -his  left  eye. 
ng  behind  him 
i  of  his  hai.\  In 
a  red  and  white 
r'lih  other  orna- 
eymour  took  a 
ery  striking  one, 

ler,  who  is  much 
itures  indicate  a 

We  observed, 
ited  Metea  with 
ng  his  pipe,  and 
s  when  addressed 
re  the  gentlemen 
;hthe  agent,  but 
ly,  until  General 

interpreter,  the 
5  great  father,  the 
s;  and  the  infor- 
m;  he  informed 
ould  be  suitably 
seat,  shook  hands 

he  would  very 
that  according  to 

all  the  questions 

he  would  make; 


that  there  were  certain  points,  ho\i'^ever,  on  which  he  could 
give  no  information,  without  having  first  obtained  the 
formal  consent  of  his  community ;  that  on  those  subjects 
he  would  remain  silent,  while  to  all  others  he  would  reply 
with  cheerfulness,  and  that  after  they  should  have  conclud- 
ed their  inquiries,  he  would  likewise  ask  them  some 
questions,  upon  points  which  he  thought  concerned  his 
nation,  and  to  which  he  trusted  they  would  in  like  manner 
reply.  He  then  resum  d  his  seat,  and  answered  with  much 
intelligence,  and  with  a  remarkable  d'  i^ree  of  patience,  all 
the  questions  which  were  asked  of  hi 

The  Potawatomis,  whose  name  as  sounded  by  them- 
selves, is  Pd-tu-w^i-t6'-m6,  (in  their  larguagc.  "  we  are 
makin;]'  fire,")  appear  to  be  connected  not  only  by  language 
but  also  by  their  manners,  customs  and  opinions,  with  the 
numerous  nations  of  Algonquin  origin.  The  languages 
of  all  these  nations  bear  evident  marks  of  a  common  origin) 
and  in  some  cases  appear  only  to  be  dialects  of  the  same 
tongue;  and  although  diversities  of  dress  and  of  dialect 
distinguish  them,  their  customs  and  usages  are  evidently,  for 
the  most  part,  the  same.  Their  traditions  as  to  their  origin  are 
very  uncertain.  They  believe  that  the  first  meeting  between 
them  and  the  Miamis  occurred  at  a  time  not  very  remote. 

The  Potawatomis  resided  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan. Of  their  first  meeting  with  the  Miamis,  the  following 
tradition  appeuirs  to  be  fresh  in  the  recollection  of  all.  It 
is  said  that  a  Miami,  having  wandered  out  from  his  cabin, 
met  three  Indians  whose  language  was  unintelligible  to 
him ;  by  signs  and  motions  he  invited  them  to  follow  him 
to  his  cabin,  where  they  were  hospitably  entertained,  and 
where  they  remained  until  dark.  During  the  night,  two 
of  the  strange  Indians  stole  from  the  hut,  while  their  com- 
rade and  host  were  asleep;  they  took  a  few  embers  from 


// 


92 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


the  cabin,  and  placing  these  near  the  door  of  the  hut, 
they  made  a  fire  which,  being  afterwards  seen  by  the  Mia- 
mi and  his  remaining  guest,  was  understood  to  imply  a 
council  fire  in  token  of  peace  between  the  two  nations. 
From  this  circumstance  the  Miami  called  them  in  his 
language,  W'i-h'A-ni-ha,  or  the  fire-makers,  which  being 
translated  into  the  other  language,  produced  the  term  by 
which  this  nation  has  ever  since  been  distinguished.*  All 
the  Indians  of  this  part  of  the  country  recognise  their  alliance 
with  the  Delaware  Indians,  whom  they  seem  to  consider  as 
their  forefathers,  applying  to  them  in  councils  the  appellation 
of"  Grand  Fathers,"  and  recognising  their  right  of  interfer- 
ing and  of  deciding  in  last  resort  in  all  their  national  con- 
cerns. This  right  extends,  however,  only  so  far  as  to  make 
their  approbation  necessary  to  the  adoption  of  any  import- 
ant measure.  Should  it  be  withheld,  the  matter  is  again 
referred  to  the  nations  for  consideration,  in  their  separate 
councils,  and  should  they  persevere  in  the  measure,  it 
would  bring  on  a  separation  of  the  alliance,  and  the  nation 
refusing  to  submit  to  the  decision  of  their  grandfathers 
would  be  considered  as  strangers.  No  such  instance  is, 
however,  recorded,  and  it  is  a  remarkable  trait  in  the  cha- 
racter of  all  Indian  institutions,  as  far  as  we  have  observed, 
that  the  principle  of  the  binding  influence  of  the  will  of 
the  majority  is  unknown.  In  all  their  decisions,  unanimity 
must  be  obtained,  and  very  seldom  fails  to  be  procured. 
Firmness  of  purpose  and  an  invincible  perseverance  in  all 
plans  against  national  enemies,  seems  with  them  to  be 


*  This  tradition,  together  with  a  considerable  part  of  the  circum* 
stances  which  we  shall  embody  in  the  following  pages,  was  obtained 
from  the  Agent's  Interpreter,  Mr.  Joseph  Barron,  a  man  whose  long 
reudence  among  the  Indians,  extensive  acquaintance  with  their  cha- 
racter,  together  with  hi?  unimpeachable  veracity,  confer  much  value 
upon  all  the  information  obt^ned  from  him. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PKTER  3  RIV£R. 


93 


united  to  a  great  spirit  of  conciliation  among  themselves, 
and  to  an  indifference  as  to  the  final  result  of  any  mcasuce 
which  they  advocate  in  their  councils.  The  success  of  a 
measure  depends  altogether  upon  the  personal  influence  of 
the  man  who  hrings  it  forward.  If  he  he  one  whom  they 
deem  wise  in  their  generation,  or  if  he  be  supposed  to  be 
gifted  with  supernatural  talents,  they  will  yield  to  his 
suggestions  without  opposition,  if  on  the  contrary  he  be  pos- 
sessed of  but  little  weight,  he  meets  with  no  support,  and  his 
good  sense  probably  induces  him  to  relinquish  his  scheme. 
When  the  Miamis  first  met  with  the  Potawatomis,  they 
applied  to  them  the  title  of  younger  brothers ;  but  this  was 
afterwards '  changed,  and  their  seniority  acknowledged, 
from  the  circumstance  that  they  resided  further  to  the 
west ;  as  those  nations  wh.  ch  reside  to  the  west  of  others 
are  deemed  more  ancient  This  was  settled  in  a  council 
of  the  two  nations,  held  some  time  after  their  first  meet- 
ing ;  the  Potawatomis  being  at  present  acknowledged 
and  styled  elder  brothers,  and  the  Miamis  younger  bro- 
thers :  but  the  council  fire  is  always  held  with  the  Mia- 
mis. By  some  it  is  mentioned,  that  they  have  no  recollec- 
tion of  the  Potawatomis  having  ever  assisted  at  any  coun- 
cil fire  but  one,  which  was  held  on  the  St.  Joseph,  (of 
Lake  Michigan  ?)  and  at  which  the  Chippewas,  Potawato- 
mis, and  Otto  was  were  present.* 


*  This  statement  is  taken  from  a  valuable  manuscript  of  observations 
concerning  the  Indians,  communicated  to  the  party  by  Dr.  Thomas  P. 
Hall,  Surgeon  U.  S.  A.  Dr.  Hall  was  stationed  at  Chicago  at  the  time 
we  visited  that  post.  His  opportunities  of  obtaining  information  were 
such,  as  to  render  his  notes  valuable,  and  they  are  particularly  so  in 
the  medical  parts,  from  which  we  have  made  many  extracts.  As  the 
observations,  which  he  made,  relate  principally  to  ^he  Potawatomis,  it 
has  been  thought  proper  to  connect  them  with  those  made  at  Fort 
Wayne. 


84 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


Their  notions  of  religion  appear  to  be  of  the  most  sim- 
ple kind  ;  they  believe  in  the  existence  of  an  only  God, 
whom  they  term  Kil-sh'i-ina-ni-t'd,  or  Great  Spirit.  Kasha 
means  great,  and  Maneto  an  irresistible  almighty  being. 
The  epithet  of  Kasha  is  never  applied  to  any  other  word, 
but  as  connected  with  the  Supreme  Being.  It  would  be 
highly  indecorous  to  apply  it  to  a  house,  a  horse,  or  any 
other  visible  object.  Yet  it  is,  in  a  few  instances,  ap- 
plied to  a  good  man,  in  order  to  give  more  force  to  the 
expression,  by  connecting  his  good  qualities  with  those 
which  they  ascribe  to  the  Great  Spirit.  They  recognise 
also  an  Evil  Spirit,  whom  they  call  Mat-ch^i-mi-n6-t^d,  (from 
malcha,  which  signifies  bad.)  This  unfavourable  epithet 
is  not  restricted  in  its  application,  but  is  extended  to  all  un- 
pleasant or  disagreeable  objects.  They  consider  them- 
selves as  indebted  to  the  Good  Spirit  for  the  warm  winds 
from  the  south,  while  the  evil  one  sends  the  cold  winds 
and  storms  of  the  north.  The  M atchamaneto  resides  in 
the  cold  regions  of  the  north,  where  the  sun  never  shines. 
The  Kashamaneto,  on  the  contrary,  dwells  at  the  "  mid- 
day-sun's place."  Their  worship  appears  to  be  princi- 
pally addressed  to  the  Evil  Spirit,  whom  they  think  it  ex- 
pedient to  propitiate ;  the  good  one  needing  no  prayers, 
for  his  natural  goodness  will  always  induce  him  to  assist 
and  protect  man  without  being  reminded  of  it  by  his  peti- 
tions ;  neither  do  they  believe  that  their  prayers  to  the  Evil 
Spirit  can  in  any  manner  displease  the  Good.  In  certain 
cases,  however,  as  when  afflicted  with  disease,  or  when 
impelled  to  it  in  a  dream,  they  will  offer  a  sacrifice  of  liv- 
ing animals  to  the  Kashamaneto.  This  is  generally  done  at 
the  suggestion  of  one  of  the  chiefs  or  leaders,  who  calls  all 
the  warriors  together,  explains  to  them  his  views,  and  ap- 
points one  of  liiem  to  go  in  search  of  a  buck,  to  another 


^-•^i 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER'S    HIVER. 


95 


he  commits  the  killing  of  a  raccoon,  to  a  third  he  allots 
some  other  animal  to  be  killed ;  and  when  they  have  been 
successful  in  their  respective  hunts,  they  meet  and  fasten 
the  first  buck  which  they  kill,  upon  a  high  pole,  and  leave  it 
in  this  situation,  so  that  it^iy  serve  as  a  sacrifice  to  the 
Great  Spirit  Any  other  animal  would  answer  as  well  as  a 
buck.  Upon  the  remainder  of  the  chase  they  feast.  After 
having  boiled  the  animal,  they  partake  of  it  in  the  name  of 
the  Great  Spirit.  The  object  of  these  sacrifices  is  to  obtain 
luck  in  their  pursuits,  whether  of  hunting  or  fighting;  these 
feasts  are  generally  accompanied  with  prayers,  dancing, 
singing,  &c.  The  only  pe^^iod  when  they  have  regular 
sacrifices  is  during  the  winter  and  spring  of  the  year ;  at 
which  t'me,  many  of  the  warriors  give  feasts;  each  selects 
the  time  that  suits  him  best,  and  invites  such  gussts  as  he 
thinks  proper.  Having  assembled  them  all,  he  rises,  takes 
a  sort  of  tambourine,  formed  by  fastening  a  piece  of  skin  or 
parchment  upon  a  frame,  he  beats  upon  this  and  addresses 
himself  to  the  divinity,  accompanying  his  invocation  by 
many  violent  gestures.  They  have  no  set  form  of  prayer ; 
when  he  has  concluded,  he  resumes  his  seat,  hands  over 
the  tambourine  to  another,  who  proceeds  in  the  same  man- 
ner. They  have  regular  songs,  which  they  sing  together 
on  such  occasions.  No  other  music  is  ever  used  but  that 
•f  the  tambourine.* 


*  Among  the  Shawanese  there  is  a  solemn  festival  called  the  green 
com  dance,  which  resembles  the  offering  of  the  first  fruits  as  enjoin- 
ed to  the  Israelites.  This  practice  is  said  to  exist  among  the  Creeks, 
Cherokees,  and  other  southern  tribes,  but  is  unknown  to  the  Potawa- 
torois  and  other  nations,  which  live  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Shawanese.  It  is  said,  that  among  the  latter,  however  ripe  an  indivi* 
dual's  com  may  be,  he  will  not  pluck  it  until  after  the  celebration 
of  the  festival. 


96 


EXPEDITION   TO    THfc 


;ii:i!!i 


Among  the  Potawatomis  polygamy  ib  not  only  allowed, 
but  even  encouraged ;  a  man  has  two  or  more  wives,  some- 
times four,  according  to  his  skill  and  success  as  a  hunter. 
The  number  of  wives  which  an  Indian  keeps,  is  equal  to 
that  which  he  can  support  and^aintain ;  he,  therefore,  that 
has  many,  is  respected  as  being  a  better  or  a  more  favoured 
hunter  than  he  that  has  but  one  wife.  Dr.  Hall  observes  that 
polygamy  exists  in  the  proportion  of  twenty-five  per  cent, 
that  some  men  have  three,  four,  or  five  wives,  and  one 
man  was  known  to  have  eight  They  appear  to  be  very 
attentive  to  the  proper  education  to  be  given  to  chil- 
dren, i  /  order  to  impart  to  them  those  qualities  both  of  the 
mind  and  body,  which  shall  enable  them  to  endure  fatigue 
and  privation,  and  to  obtain  an  influence,  either  in  the 
counsels  of  the  nation,  or  during  their  military  operations. 
When  questioned  on  this  subject,  Metea  replied,  that  while 
he  was  yet  very  young,  his  father  began  to  instruct  him, 
and  incessantly,  day  after  day,  and  night  after  night,  taught 
him  the  traditions,  the  laws  and  ceremonies  of  his  nation. 
"This  he  did,"  said  Metea,  "that  I  m.ight  one  day  benefit 
my  country  with  my  counsel."  The  education  of  boys 
generally  commences  at  ten  or  twelve  years  of  age ;  they 
accustom  them  early  to  the  endurance  of  cold,  by  making 
them  bathe  every  morning  in  w'  rer.  They  likewise  encour- 
age them  to  habituate  themselves  to  the  privation  of  food. 
In  this  manner,  children  are  observed  to  acquire,  more 
readily,  the  qualifications  which  it  is  desirable  for  an  Indian 
to  possess.  Parents  use  no  compulsory  means  to  reduce 
their  children  to  obedience,  but  they  generally  succeed  in 
obtaining  a  powerful  influence  over  them,  by  acting  upon 
their  fears;  they  tell  them  that  if  they  do  not  behave  them- 
selves as  they  are  bid,  that  they  will  irritate  the  Great  Spirit, 
who  will  deprive  them  of  all  luck  as  hunters,  and  as  war- 


!,1 


SOURCE    OP   ST.    PETER'S    RIVER. 


07 


riors.  This,  together  with  the  constant  and  never  ceasing 
importance,  which  the  children  observe,  that  their  parents 
attribute  to  luck  in  all  their  pursuits,  is  found  to  have  the 
desired  effect  upon  the  luinds  of  young  persons,  fired 
with  the  ambition  of  becoming  distinguished,  at  some  fu- 
ture day,  by  their  skill  and  success.  Their  fasts  are  mark- 
ed by  the  ceremony  of  smearing  their  faces,  hands,  &c.  with 
charcoal.  To  effect  this,  they  take  a  piece  of  wood  of  the 
length  of  the  finger,  and  suspend  it  to  their  necks,  they 
char  one  end  of  it,  and  rub  themselves  with  the  coal  every 
morning,  keeping  it  on  until  after  sunset.  No  person,  whose 
face  is  blackened,  dare  eat  or  drink  any  thing  (^aring  that 
time ;  whatever  may  be  the  cravings  of  his  appetite,  he 
must  restrict  them  until  the  evening  arrives,  when  he 
may  wash  off  his  black  paint,  and  indulge,  moderately,  in 
the  use  of  food.  The  next  morning  he  repeats  the  ceremony 
of  blackening  his  face,  and  continues  it  from  day  to  day,  until 
the  whole  of  his  piece  of  wood  be  consumed,  which  gene- 
rally takes  place  in  the  course  of  from  ten  to  twelve  days. 

After  this  term,  they  either  suspend  their  mortifications, 
or  continue  them  according  as  the  exigencies  of  the  case 
seem  to  require.  From  the  information  which  was  com- 
municated by  the  interpreter  and  others,  it  does  not  ap- 
pear that,  in  any  one  instance,  have  the  Indians  ever  been 
known  to  break  their  fasts,  whatever  may  have  been  the 
temptation  to  which  they  were  exposed ;  so  powerful,  in- 
deed, is  their  superstitious  dread  of  that  ill  luck,  which 
would  attach  to  a  transgression  of  their  rules,  thai  even 
children  have  been,  in  vain,  tempted  to  take  food  when  at 
the  houses  of  traders,  and  beyond  the  control  of  their 
parents ;  in  all  cases  they  have  declined  it ;  neither  does  it 
appear  that,  during  those  seasons  of  mortification,  they  in- 
dulge after  sunset,  in  any  unreasonable  gratification  of  their 

Vol.  I.  13         • 


^8 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


appetite ;  in  this  respect,  therefore,  they  prove  themselves 
more  consistent  than  the  Mahometans,  who  are  said  while 
their  Ramadan  or  lent  lasts,  to  make  up  by  the  debauche- 
ries in  which  they  indulge  in  the  night  time,  for  the 
painful  restrictions  imposed  upon  them  during  the  day,  by 
the  precepts  of  their  prophet  The  same  apprehensions 
which  will  prevent  an  Indian,  whether  man  or  boy,  from 
tasting  food,  while  covered  with  his  coating  of  el  arcoal, 
will  not  allow  him  to  shorten  the  term  of  his  penance  by 
consuming  the  piece  of  wood  too  hastily.  If  he  does  not 
use  it  sparingly,  he  is  certain  that  the  charm  or  virtue  with 
which  he  invests  it,  will  be  dispelled.  In  addition  to  these 
mortifications,  the  Indian  attempts  to  impress  upon  his  off- 
spring a  permanent  and  unshaken  belief  in  the  existence 
of  a  Great  Spirit,  ruler  of  the  universe,  whose  attributes 
are  kindness  to  men,  and  a  desire  of  relieving  them  from 
all  their  afflictions :  the  necessity  of  doing  all  that  may  be 
grateful  to  him  is  often  recurred  to,  in  those  exhortationsr 
by  which  every  Indian  parent  instructs  his  sons,  both 
morning  and  evening.  It  does  not  appear  that  the  same 
care  is  extended  to  the  religious  principles  of  females.  We 
never  heard  of  their  joining  in  fasts  or  mortifications; 
they  are  not  allowed  to  take  a  part  in  the  public  sacrifices, 
and  as  they  have  no  concern  in  the  noble  occupations  of  war 
or  the  chase,  it  probably  matters  but  little  whether  or  not 
they  are  agreeable  in  the  sight  of  the  Great  Spirit.  The  only 
inducement  which  they  have  to  pray  is,  that  they  may 
continue  to  hold  a  place  in  the  affections  of  their  husbands ; 
but,  as  upon  this  point  the  men  are  quite  indifferent,  it  would 
appear  to  them  unworthy  of  their  superior  rank  in  creation, 
if  they  were  to  bestow  a  thought  upon  the  subject. 

Among  the  men  of  their  own  tribe,  these  Indians  are  re- 
presented as  indulging  in  many  of  the  virtues  which  have 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETER  8   RIVER. 


99 


long  been  considered  as  peculiar  to  man  in  a  state  of  civili- 
zation.    Children  incapacitated  from  labour,  or  exertion, 
by  accident  or  deformity,  are  carefully  attended  to,  and  sel- 
dom allowed  to  suffer,  from  a  privation  of  any  of  the  com- 
forts which  the  rest  of  the  tribe  enjoy.     It  is  considered 
disgraceful  in  a  man,  to  inflict  any  injury  upon  a  helpless 
or  unprotected  person.     In  a  few  instances,  it  is  said,  that 
children  born  deformed  have  been  destroyed  by  their 
mothers,  but  these  instances  are  rare,  and  whenever  dis- 
covered, uniformly  bring  them  into  disrepute,  and  are  not 
unfrequently  punished  by  some  of  the  near  relations.     In- 
dependent of  these  cases,  which  are  but  rare,  a  few  instances 
of  infanticide,  by  single  women,  in  order  to  conceal  in- 
trigue, have  been  heard  of;  but  they  are  always  treated 
with  abhorrence.  In  like  manner  when  going  out  on  hunt- 
ing excursions,  elderly  parents  have  been  known  to  be 
abandoned,  or  exposed  to  a  certain  death,  but  these  were 
likewise  rare  cases,  which  may  be  considered  as  always 
carrying  with  them  a  severe  punishment  by  the  utter  con- 
tempt and  detestation  in  which  those  who  committed  them 
were  held.     When  questioned  upon  this  point,  Metea  de- 
nied that  it  had  ever  haippened ;  "  as  they  have  taken  pains 
to  raise  us  when  we  were  young,"  said  he,  "  it  is  but  fair 
that  we  should  return  this  care  to  them  in  their  old  age." 
Instances  have  however  occurred  even  among  the  Pota- 
watomis ;  one  of  which  took  place  on  the  Milwacke,  when 
a  decrepid  old  woman,  who  had  no  horse  to  remove  her 
from  that  place,  was  burned  by  them.     In  painful  and  vio- 
lent diseases,  Indians  are  sometimes  killed  at  their  own  re- 
quest, and  afterwards  burned  to  prevent  contagion  or  the 
disease  falling  upon  another.     Their  attentions  to  old  per- 
sons, and  their  respect  towards  them,  may  be  considered 
as  one  of  the  virtues  in  which  they  pride  themselves  most, 


'«!,  II 


Hi 


100 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


and  one  of  those  which  they  exercise  most  frequently.  To 
ideots  they  likewise  generally  extend  a  kind  and  humane 
treatment.     By  their  relations,  ideots  are  always  treated 
with  tenderness ;  but  the  idle  and  foolish,  who  are  not  con- 
nected with  them,  though  they  never  abuse,  will  some- 
times ridicule  them ;  in  this  respect  imitating  the  treat- 
ment to  which  they  are  so  inhumanly,  yet  so  frequently  ex- 
posed, from  the  unthinking,  even  among  civilized  nations. 
There  are  some  persons  among  them  who  think  that  ideots 
are  possessed  of  more  intellect  than  they  make  show  of,  and 
who  believe  them  to  be  endowed  with  much  intelligence, 
but  by  none  are  they  held  in  the  light  of  sorcerers.     The 
same  opinion  is  likewise  entertained  of  insane  persons,  who 
are  supp<  sed  by  some  to  hold  converse  with  the  Deity; 
this  opinion  is  not,  however,  universally  adopted.    Care  is 
taken  in  the  physical  education  of  the  Potawatomi  from 
his  earliest  age,  that  his  body  should  be  straight  and  well- 
formed,  no  attempt  is  however  made  to  change  the  shape  of 
the  head ;  the  observations  which  have  been  made  on  this 
subject  by  various  travellers,  apply  only  to  certain  nations, 
one  of  which  is  designated  by  the  term  of  Flat-heads,  and 
it  is  highly  incorrect  to  consider  them  as  general.     The 
shape  of  the  head  is  one  of  the  features  which  assists  most 
in  the  discrimination  of  the  various  tribes.     It  is  at  least 
as  easy  for  a  person  well  acquainted  with  the  Indians,  to 
distinguish  between  the  different  nations,  as  it  is  among 
'white  men  to  observe  differences  between  the  various  races 
that  inhabit  Europe ;  to  an  Indian  this  is  even  easier,  as 
his  long  habits  of  scrutiny  have  made  him  quick  at  no- 
ticing differences  which  would  escape  the  attention  of  less 
practised  observers.  "  We  know  every  tribe  at  first  sight," 
said  Little  Turtle,  "the  shape,  colour,  legs,  knees,  and 
feet,  are  all  to  us  certain  marks  of  distinction." 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


101 


If  in  the  intercourse  of  the  Potawatomi  with  men  of 
his  own  tribe,  we  observe  many  of  the  virtues  and  finer 
feelings  which  adorn  mankind  in  all  situations,  we  have, 
unfortunately,  cause  to  regret  that  in  his  conduct  towards 
other  nations  he  appears  under  very  disadvantageous  co- 
lours.  To  a  stranger,  if  he  be  not  an  enemy,  it  is  true  that 
he  will  extend  the  most  unrestricted  hospitality  •,  his  prin- 
ciples as  well  as  his  habits  of  life  prevent  his  greeting  him, 
or  joining  him  in  conversation  ;  but  all  that  the  most  libe- 
ral spirit  can  do,  to  secure  to  him  a  friendly  and  fraternal 
reception,  is  cordially  done.    In  all  his  actions,  words,  and 
motions,  the  stranger  must  however  take  heed  lest  he  re- 
veal himself  to  be  an  enemy ;  for  in  that  case,  not  the  bread 
that  they  have  been  breaking  together,  nor  the  tobacco  of 
which  they  have  both  smoked,  nor  the  sacred  laws  of 
hospitality,  could  protect  the  guest  from  the  sacrifice  which 
the  Potawatomi  considers  as  enjoined  upon  him  by  the 
paramount  obligation  of  destroying  his  enemy,  or  that  of 
his  nation,  wherever  he  may  meet  with  him.     Their  feel- 
ing of  hatred  and  resentment  against  all  nations  with  which 
they  are  at  war,  has  led  them  to  deeds,  from  the  recital  of 
which  we  shrink  in  disgust     Among   these    there  is 
none  more  horrible,  and  on  the  subject  of  which  so  much 
difference  of  opinion  has  existed,  as  that  of  cannibalism,  as- 
cribed to  them  by  numerous  travellers.     We  find  it  as- 
serted, in  plain  terms,  by  some  of  the  oldest  writers  upon 
America  ;*  but  it  has  been  brought  into  question  by  many, 


•  The  fact  which  we  advance  here  of  the  cannibalism  of  the  Pota- 
watotnis,  is  not  new  as  regards  the  North  American  Indians,  though 
some  travellers  may  have  asserted  it  not  to  exist  among  them. 

«'  I  think,"  says  Hennepin,  "  that  the  Neros  and  Maximians  of  old 
never  invented  greater  cruelties  to  test  the  patience  of  martyrs,  than 
the  torments  to  which  the  Iroquois  expoic  their  enemies.    And 


103 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


who,  having  never  visited  the  Indians,  have  been  influ- 
enced by  a  laudable  incredulity,  springing  doubtltss  from 
a  justifiable  wish  to  close  their  eyes  and  ears  against  evi- 
dence which  bears  so  hardly  upon  human  nature.  With 
these  feelings  the  gentlemen  of  the  expedition  first  heard 
the  reports  of  the  anthropophagy  of  the  Potawatomi,  and 
yielded  but  an  unwilling  car  to  every  thing  that  could  in- 
duce a  belief  in  the  existence  of  this  disgusting  trait  in  the 
character  of  the  north-west  Indians.  Truth  compels  them 
however  to  assert,  that  the  reports  which  they  have  re- 
ceived on  this  subject  were  so  frequent,  so  circumstantial, 


i>  ' 


i.  I  it' .  p. ! 


when  wc  saw  that  their  children  were  cutting  slices  of  flesh  from  the 
slave  whom  their  parents  had  murdered  with  the  most  unheard  of 
cruelties,  and  that  these  young  anthropophagi  were  eating  the  flesh  of 
this  man  in  our  own  presence,  we  withdrew  from  the  hut  of  the 
chief,  and  we  would  eat  wii*>  them  no  longer,  and  we  retraced 
our  steps  through  forests  to  Niagara  river."  (page  40,)  and  again,  in 
page  304. 

"  In  this  confusion  it  was  not  diflicult  for  the  Iroquois,  united  with 
the  Miamis,  to  carry  away  about  eight  hundred  slaves,  both  women 
and  young  men.  These  anthropophagi  eat  immediately  several  old 
men  of  the  Illinois  nation,  and  burned  a  few  others  who  had  not 
strength  enough  to  follow  them  to  the  country  of  tJie  Iroquois,  more 
than  four  hundred  leagues  distant."  He  however  makes  an  excep- 
lion  in  favour  of  the  Nadiousioux,  (Sioux  ?)  whom  he  asserts,  *'  not 
to  be  so  inhuman,  and  not  to  partake  of  human  flesh."  (Page  68. 
Description  de  la  Louisianne,  8ic.  &c.  par  le  R.  P.  Louis  Hennepin, 
&c.  Paris.  1683.  12mo.) 

Even  Adair,  who  may  be  considered  as  the  great  skeptic  on  this 
subject,  in  the  same  page  in  which  he  rejects  the  charc^e  as  a  false 
one,  states  that  he  could  not  learn  "  that  they  had  eaten  human  flesh, 
only  the  heart  of  the  enemy,  which  they  all  do  sympathetically,  (blood 
for  blood,)  in  order  to  inspire  them  with  courage."  ••••««  To  eat  the 
heart  of  an  enemy  will,  in  their  opinion,  like  eating  other  tilings  be- 
fore mentioned,  communicate  and  give  greater  heart  against  the  ene- 
my," kc.  Page  135.  History  of  tue  American  Indians,  by  James 
Adair  Fisq.  London,  1774.  4to. 


SOURCE   OP   ST.    PETEU'S   RIVER. 


103 


and  derived  from  such  respectable  sources,  that  any  con- 
cealment of  it,  or  .any  apparent  incredulity  on  their 
part,  would  be  a  dereliction  of  duty.  Even  the  most 
incredulous  of  the  party,  or  those  disposed  to  entertain 
the  most  favourable  opinion  of  the  Indians,  were  at  last 
compelled  to  acknowledge  that  all  doubt  on  the  subject  had 
been  removed  from  their  minds.  They  have  been  asked, 
whether  they  had  ever  been  present  at  such  a  feast,  and 
they  have  heard  it  asserted  by  respectable  persons,  that 
nothing  but  the  autoptical  observation  of  the  travellers 
could  induce  them  to  place  any  credit  in  this  imputed  canni- 
balism ;  to  this  it  may  be  replied  that,  travelling  as  they 
did,  at  a  time  when  the  Indians  were  comparatively  in  a 
state  of  peace,  when  few  and  but  accidental  hostilities  had 
occurred  between  them,  and  these  always  at  a  distance  from 
the  route  which  they  pursued ;  it  could  not  be  expected 
that  they  should  have  been  themselves  eye  witnesses  to 
these  infamous  orgies.  But  if  it  can  be  adduced  in  support 
of  their  assertion,  that  the  fact  has  been  acknowledged  by 
the  Indians  themselves,  by  those  that  had  perpetrated  the 
deed,  that  it  has  been  uniformly  admitted  by  the  interpre- 
ters and  traders  who  hrve  long  resided  among  them,  who 
are  connected  to  them  by  intermixtures,  who  are  them- 
selves partly  Indians,  and  who  declare  having  been  present 
at  the  time  it  took  place ;  if  the  names  of  the  individuals 
who  became  victims  to  it,  can  be  mentioned,  if  the  addi- 
tional circumstance  of  its  having  been  observed  at  several 
thousands  of  miles  distance,  but  among  those  Indians  who 
are  known  to  be  of  the  same  nation,  and  who  speak  dialects 
of  the  same  language  be  taken  into  consideration,  if  these 
facts  should  be  corroborated  by  names  expressive  of  this 
custom,  given  to  certain  localities  by  the  Indians  them- 


104 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


i-'m'' 


m^  M 


'l! 


iiiiiiiS 


selves,  and  if  all  these  should  be  found  to  concur  with  the 
observatirns  recorded  in  the  histories  of  the  first  travellers 
in  America,  (who,  whatever  may  have  been  their  errors, 
must  be  considered  as  having  adhered  more  closely  to  truth 
than  is  generally  supposed  J  then  with  all  this  circumstan- 
tial evidence,  strongly  and  uniformly  bearing  on  one  side 
of  the  question,  is  it  possible  for  the  most  skeptical  to  refuse 
his  belief  to  this  fact,  whatever  may  be  the  horrour  whicii 
attends  it.  We  pre  far  however  from  asserting,  that  this 
practice  has  prevailed  universally  among  the  Indians ;  the 
evidences  on  the  subject  of  the  cannibalism  of  the  Dacota 
or  Sioux  Indians,  (Naudowessies  of  Carver,)  are  too  few  and 
too  suspicious ;  they  are  refuted  by  too  many  contradictory 
facts  to  permit  us  to  place  any  confidence  in  them;  but  the 
case  is  otherwise  with  the  Chippewas,  the  Miamis,  the 
Potawatomis,  and  all  the  other  Indian  nations  which  are 
known  to  be  of  Algonquin  origin. 

The  motives  which  impel  them  to  cannibalism  are  va- 
rious :  in  some  cases  it  is  produced  by  a  famine  over  the 
country,  and  of  this  we  shall  be  able  to  cite  a  number  of 
well  attested  instances,  some  of  which  carry  with  them 
very  horrible  features,  when  we  treat  of  the  Chippewa 
tribes  west  of  Lake  Superior.  Another,  P-^d  a  more  fre- 
quent cause,  is  the  desire  of  vonting  their  rage  upon  a  de- 
feated enemy,  or  a  belief  that  by  so  doing,  they  acquire  a 
charm  that  will  make  them  irresistible.  It  is  a  common  su- 
perstition with  them,  that  he  that  tastes  of  the  body  of  a 
brave  man  acquires  a  part  of  his  valour,  and  that  if  he  can 
eat  of  his  heart,  which  by  them  is  considered  as  the  seat  of 
all  courage,  the  share  of  bravery  which  he  derives  from  it  is 
still  greater.  It  matters  not  whether  the  foe  be  a  .vhite  man 
or  an  Indian,  provided  he  be  an  enemy,  it  is  all  that  is  re- 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


105 


quired.  Mr.  Barron  has  seen  the  Potawatomis,  with  the 
hands  and  limbs,  both  of  white  men  and  Cherokees,  which 
tliey  vVfcre  about  to  devour. 

It  is  well  attested,  that  one  of  the  officers,  attached  to 
General  Harmer's  command,  was  taken  prisoner  by  the 
Miamis,  picviously  to  the  defeat  of  the  whole  army,  and 
tortured  by  them  in  the  most  cruel  and  unrelenting  man- 
ner for  three  days,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Maumee.  The 
Indians  declared  that  he  had  behaved  with  a  remarkable  de- 
gree of  fortitude.  Pieces  of  flesh  were  cut  from  his 
body,  roasted  and  eaten  by  them  in  the  presence  of 
the  agonized  victim.  No  exclamntion  or  groan  could  be 
drawn  from  tho  intrepid  prisoner,  until  a  squaw  thrust  a 
burning  brand  into  his  privates,  when  he  was  heard  to  ex- 
claim, "  Oh  my  God  I"  A  young  Indian  warrior  then  de- 
clared, that  the  prisoner  having  proved  himself  a  brave 
man,  should  no  longer  be  kept  in  agony,  and  put  a  period 
to  his  sufferings  by  despatching  him  with  his  tomahawk. 

One  of  the  best  attested  instances,  is  that  of  Captain 
Wells,  who  was  killed  after  the  capture  of  Chicago  in  1812. 
This  man,  who  had  been  a  long  time  among  the  Indians, 
having  been  taken  prisoner  by  them  at  the  age  of  thirteen, 
had  acquired  a  great  reputation  for  courage ;  and  his  name 
i&  still  mentioned  as  the  bravest  white  man  with  whom  they 
ever  met  He  had  almost  become  one  of  their  number,  and 
had  united  himself  to  a  descendant  of  Little  Turtle.  At 
the  commencement  of  hostilities  between  Britain  and  the 
United  States  he  sided  with  his  own  countrymen,  while  the 
Indians  of  this  vicinity  all  passed  into  the  British  service. 
When  the  fort  was  afterwaids  besieged  by  the  united  In- 
dians, Captain  Wells  was  tJiere,  having  arrived  two  days 
prior  with  the  orders  from  General  Hull  for  the  evacuation 
of  the  post.     Wells  was  killed  after  the  action,  his  body 

Vol.  I.  14 


t 


f'  II 


,'l'   'I 


M 


^M(^ 


I0(j 


EXPEDITION   TO   TUB 


was  divided,  and  his  heart  was  shared,  as  being  the  most 
certain  sp<.  ''^r  courage,  and  part  of  it  was  sent  to  the 
various  trib.  '  alliance  with  the  Potawatomis,  while  they 
themselve-j  feasted  upon  the  rest 

Among  some  tribes,  cannibalism  is  universal,  but  it 
appears  that  among  the  Potawatomis  it  is  generally  re- 
stricted to  a  society  or  fraternity,  whose  privilege  and  duty 
it  is  on  all  occasions  to  eat  of  the  enemy's  flesh ;  at  least 
one  individual  must  be  eaten.  The  flesh  is  sometimes  dried 
and  taken  to  the  village.  Not  only  are  the  members  of  this 
fraternity  endowed  with  great  virtues,  but  they  can  im- 
part them  by  incana  of  spells  to  any  individual  whom 
they  wish  to  favour.  No  warrior  can  be  elected  into  the 
association,  except  by  the  unanimous  consent  of  all  its 
members.  In  such  a  case,  the  candidate  for  this  distinction, 
which  is  held  in  great  esteem,  makes  a  fine  present  to  the 
society.  We  shall  have  an  opportunity  of  recurring  on 
some  future  occasion  to  this  subject,  and  we  shall  be  enabled 
to  prove  the  participation  in  this  nefarious  practice,  of  many 
Indian  tribes  collected  together  on  a  memorable  occasion, 
at  the  siege  of  Fort  Meigs,  in  1813.  We  do  not  wish  to 
be  considered  as  advancing  the  doctrine  that  human  flesh 
is  usually,  or  as  a  matter  of  preference,  eaten  by  these  In- 
dians, or  by  any  others  with  whom  we  may  have  met,  but 
that  it  has  been  eaten  on  many  occasions  under  the  most 
aggravating  circumstances,  and  without  the  least  shadow  of 
necessity,  we  consider  as  fully  established. 

Of  their  first  origin,  their  ideas  appear  to  be  very  confused. 
They  all  consider  the  earth  as  their  mother,  and  some  of  them 
are  impressed  with  the  belief  that  they  formerly  resided  un- 
der ground,  and  that  they  rose  out  f'-om  it.  On  this  subject 
Mr.  Keating  held  a  conversation  of  better  than  an  hour  with 
Richarville,  one  of  the  principal  chiefs  of  the  Miamis,  who 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  riveu. 


107 


gave  him  a  long  but  confused  account  of  the  division  which 
exists  among  the  Miamis,  into  two  tribes,  one  of  which 
considers  itself  as  iiaving  risen  from  the  waters,  and  the 
other  from  the  centre  of  the  earth.     Those  of  Neptunian 
origin,  made  their  way  us  is  believed,  to  the  surface,  by 
climbing  up  trees,  &c.     The  man  who  gave  this  account 
is  a  half-breed  Miami,  his  father  being  a  Frenchman ;  he 
speaks  very  good  French.     At  the  time  we  saw  him,  he 
was  dressed  like  a  trader,  and  from  his  appearance,  man- 
ners and  language,  we  should  never  have  suspected  him  to 
be  any  other  than  a  Canadian  fur-dealer.  He  is  said,  how- 
ever, to  possess  considerable  influence  with  his  tribe.     He 
sometimes  assumes  the  Indian  costume,  with  the  exception 
of  the  blanket,  for  which  he  always  substitutes  a  capote. 
In  the  conversation  which  we  had  with  him,  we  had  reason 
to  consider  him  as  well  entitled  to  the  reputation  which  he 
has  acquired,  of  being  one  of  the  most  artful  and  deceitful 
of  his  nation.  He  declined  meeting  the  party  in  conference, 
stating  that  the  other  chiefs  of  his  tribe  v     'e  absent,  and 
that  the  circumstance  of  his  holding  a  conference  with 
white  men  might  expose  him  to  suspicion,  which  would 
the  more  readily  attach  to  him  on  account  of  his  being  him- 
self but  a  half-breed.  This  reason  was  too  plausible  to  allow 
of  our  objecting  to  it  j  and  we  regretted  that  we  could  not 
test  the  sincerity  of  his  offer,  to  answer  all  our  questions,  in 
a  few  days,  when  the  other  men  of  his  nation  would  have 
arrived.    The  gentleman  of  the  party  who  conversed  witli 
him,  noticed  that  he  had  u  jver  met  with  a  man  whose  man- 
ners evinced  so  much  cunning  and  subtilty  as  those  of  this 
chief.     Affecting  not  to  understand  questions  to  which  he 
did  not  choose  to  reply,  and  involving  all  his  answers  in 
obscurity,  he  imparted  no  information  concerning  the  points 
upon  which  he  was  questioned,  except  in  the  instance 


108 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


5.  iir  iitJi-^iio|i{ii' 


^'liJ 


*  i 


C'n*!!!    ''111. 


already  alluded  to,  of  the  division  of  the  Miamis  into  two 
tribes,  whose  origins  are  supposed  to  be  so  different.  This 
might  be  considered  as  very  interesting,  if  any  confidence 
could  be  placed  in  such  a  man  as  Richarville.  Of  his  craft  and 
worth lessness,  an  idea  can  be  formed  from  the  circumstance 
that,  when  negotiatingonthepartof  the  Miamisatreaty  with 
the  commissioners  at  Chicago,  he  made  it  an  indispensable 
condition  that  a  tract  of  nine  sections  of  land  should  be  secur- 
ed to  him  in  foe  simple,  while  the  rest  of  his  nation  are 
merely  joint  tenants  on  their  lands,  and  destitute  of  the  privi- 
lege of  disposing  of  the  same,  except  with  the  consent  of  the 
Government  of  the  United  States.  It  must  be  regretted, 
that  this  mode  of  obtaining  the  assent  of  chiefs,  to  a  treaty 
by  private  presents,  grants,  &c.  should  have  ever  been 
allowed.  It  was,  we  believe,  first  introduced  by  the  French, 
whose  object  was,  by  these  pretended  treaties,  to  which  the 
chiefs  of  the  nations  were  bribed  to  give  their  consent,  to 
obtain  a  colour  of  right  which  the  French  government 
could  afterwards  maintain  against  European  nations.  This 
practice  has  existed  so  long,  and  is  so  universal,  that  it  would 
perhaps  be  difficult  to  make  a  treaty  with  the  Indians,  if  pre- 
sents or  grants  were  withheld  from  the  chiefs ;  but  in  order 
to  test  the  correctness  of  the  principle,  we  need  but  look  to 
the  feelings  which  would  be  excited  if  an  European  power, 
while  discussing  the  terms  of  a  treaty  with  our  government, 
were  to  offer  or  to  consent  to  give  any  private  presents  to 
the  negotiators  on  the  part  of  our  country.  Richarville 
retains  his  attachment  to  the  British  government,  and 
although  residing  upon  our  territory,  and  sharing  in  the 
annuity  paid  by  the  United  States  to  the  Miamis,  he  still 
holds  a  commission  in  the  British  service,  and  his  name  still 
appears  on  the  half-pay  or  pension  list  of  Great  Britain. 
Metea  told  us  that  the  Potawatomis  thought  that  they 


SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETEh's   RIVEB. 


109 


had  always  existed  in  the  neighhourhood  of  Lake  Michi- 
fran.  That  the  first  man  and  woman  had  heen  made  by 
the  Great  Spirit.  God  sowed  the  seed  and  the  men  sprung 
up.  When  called  upon  to  explain  what  he  meant  by  this, 
he  gave  to  understand  that  he  had  used  the  language  in  a 
figurative  point  of  view,  and  as  a  parable.  Their  tradition 
at  first  mentioned  but  one  original  couple,  the  parents  of 
the  red  people,  from  whom  they  believed  themselves  to 
have  descended.  But  when  they  became  acquainted  with 
the  different  races  of  men,  they  supposed  a  couple  of  white, 
and  another  of  black,  had  likewise  been  created  by  the  Great 
Spirit,  and  that  these  had  given  rise  to  the  white  and  black 
people  whom  they  had  since  seen,  but  he  had  not  troubled 
himself  much  with  thinking  on  this  subject  Soon  after 
the  white  men  came  among  them,  they  were  told  that,  far  to 
the  setting  sun,  there  was  a  race  of  people  whose  features 
and  complexion  resembled  theirs.  This  had  led  them  to 
think  upon  and  discuss  this  matter  frequently  among  them- 
selves; they  had  often  enquired  from  other  nations  whence 
they  came,  but  they  found  strong  reasons  to  adhere  to 
their  old  traditions,  that  thr  land  on  which  they  now 
resided  was  that  upon  which  the  Great  Spirit  had  first 
placed  them.  Metea  has  always  been  of  the  opinion  that 
there  is  but  one  God,  who  is  a  Supreme  Being,  but  that  he 
has  made  a  Spirit  or  God  to  be  under  him,  whose  spe- 
cial duty  it  is  to  take  charge  of  the  Indians.  This  he 
thought  to  be  the  common  opinion  of  all  Indians  whom 
he  knew.  This  inferior  Deity  stood  to  the  Supreme  Being 
in  the  same  relation  that  the  red  man  stands  to  the  white. 
The  existence  of  a  Bad  Spirit  is  considered  as  proved  by 
the  circumstance  of  there  being  bad  men,  for  a  Good  Spi- 
rit could  not  have  made  any  thing  that  was  evil. 
When  questioned  as  to  his  opinion  of  a  future  life,  and 


•         • « 


•  •  • 


M^M 


III!  ill  I 


f:i:i! 


;«ii; 


!!i!! 


UQ 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


the  ir.im(.rtality  of  the  soul,  he  unhesitatingly  replied  that 
he  had  heard  the  white  men  talk  of  those  things,  but  had 
no  belief  whatever  in  them.  He  thought  that  after  death 
both  body  and  spirit  decayed  and  disappeared ;  nor  would 
he  at  all  acknowledge  a  belief  in  the  doctrine  which  we 
had  heard  asserted  by  the  interpreter,  as  generally  enter- 
tained by  the  Indians,  that  the  spirits  of  the  departed  re- 
turned after  death  to  the  Master  of  Life.  In  replying  to  this 
question  he  made  use  of  a  strong  expression, ''  as  a  dog  dies, 
so  man  dies — the  dog  rots  after  death,  so  does  man  decay 
after  he  has  ceased  to  live."  Being  asked  if  it  was  true 
that  they  placed  provisions  near  the  dead,  both  at  the  time 
of  death  and  afterwards,  and  if  true,  wherefore  this  was 
done,  if  both  spirit  and  body  decayed  together  ?  He  replied, 
that  this  custom  really  prevailed,  but  he  knew  of  no  other 
foundation  for  it,  than  a  dream  of  one  of  their  ancestors, 
that  a  departed  friend  had  appeared  to  him,  and  told  him 
he  was  hungry,  which  induced  him  to  take  provisions  to 
the  grave  of  that  man — he  knew  of  no  other  cause  for 
it.  We  felt  some  anxiety  to  obtain  a  more  satisfactory 
answer  from  Metea  on  this  point,  as  we  knew  that  at  the 
funeral  of  a  nephew  of  his,  he  had  once  expressed  himself 
thus  in  the  presence  of  Mrs.  Hackley,*  who  repeated  it  to 
Major  Long.  "  His  spirit  has  fled  upon  a  long  journey,  and 
you  must  give  him  provisions  that  he  may  feed  upon 
during  his  journey."  Although  all  our  attempts  at  obtain- 
ing a  diflTerent  answer  from  Metea  proved  abortive,  we  in- 
cline to  the  opinion  that  the  doctrine  of  the  immortality  of 

•  Mrs.  Hackley  is  the  daughter  of  the  late  Captain  Wells,  by  a  Miami 
squaw,  who  was  either  the  daughter  or  adopted  child  of  Little  Turtle. 
Having  received  her  education  among  white  men,  she  unites  to  the 
manners  of  civilized  life,  many  of  the  interesting  peculiarities  which 
distinguish  mankind  in  its  primitive  state. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


Ill 


I  he  soul,  and  of  a  future  state  of  reward  and  punishment,  Is 
generally  entertained  by  them,  and  that  it  probably  preex- 
isted to  their  intercourse  with  white  men.  Our  opinion 
does  not  merely  rest  upon  the  general  prevalence  of  this 
belief  among  all  those  who  have  made  the  least  advance 
above  the  lowest  state  of  barbarism,  but  upon  the  uni- 
form opinion  on  this  subject,  expressed  to  us  by  those 
who  were  most  conversant  with  Indian  manners,  and  who 
had  enjoyed  the  best  opportunities  of  becoming  acquainted 
with  them.  From  Mr.  Barron  we  heard  that  they  gene- 
rally admitted  the  existence  of  a  future  life,  of  which,  how- 
ever, they  entertained  very  confused  ideas,  believing  for 
the  most  part  that  the  spirits  of  those  who  had  lived  a  good 
life,  went  to  a  country  where  they  could  pursue  without 
fatigue  their  favouriteoccupation  of  hunting,  where  animals 
would  be  plenty  and  fat.  Not  so  with  the  spirits  of  the 
bad ;  theirs  would  be  a  country  barren  and  nearly  destitute 
of  animals,  where  the  chase  would  become  a  painful  and 
unprofitable  occupation.  At  any  rate,  they  hold  that  their 
existence  is  at  the  disposal  of  the  Great  Master  ^f  Life.  Many, 
however,  when  asked  where  their  spirits  went  after  death, 
carelessly  replied  that  they  knew  not  what  became  of  them, 
they  saw  them  not  leaving  the  body.  Cne  of  the  strongest 
facts  in  corroboration  of  their  entertaining  a  belief  in  futu- 
rity, and  the  immortality  of  the  soul  or  spirit,  is,  that  they 
all  believe  in  ghosts  or  phantoms.  "  Once,"  said  Mr.  Bar- 
ron, "  on  approaching  in  the  night  a  village  of  Ottawas,  I 
found  all  the  inhabitants  in  confusion ;  they  were  all  busily 
engaged  in  raising  noises  of  the  loudest  and  most  inhar- 
monious kind.  Upon  inquiry,  I  found  that  a  battle  had 
been  lately  fought  between  the  Ottawas  and  the  Kickapoos, 
and  that  the  object  of  all  this  noise  was  to  prevent  the 
ghosts  of  the  departed  combatants  from  entering  the  village. " 


W^^^mF, 


Hi, '  I!'- 


m.:[*%i 


112 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


It  is  impossible  in  seeing  them  at  present,  not  to  feel 
convinced  that  the  time  for  correct  information  has  passed 
away ;  they  have  imbibed  from  the  missionaries  so  many 
notions  which  certainly  did  not  belong  to  them  originally, 
and  the  crafty  policy  of  their  chiefs  to  counteract  the  ef- 
fect of  their  intercourse  with  white  men,  has  raised  so  many 
idle  and  false  traditions,  that  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish 
the  genuine  from  the  false  doctrines  attributed  to  these  na- 
tions in  their  original  state.  Of  the  many  interesting  customs, 
which,  according  to  their  traditions,  were  formerly  preva- 
lent among  them,  the  dereliction  of  none  is  more  to  be  re- 
gretted than  of  that  which  accompanied  their  marriage  cere- 
mony. This  has  now  nearly  disappeared  from  the  face  of 
the  country.  Their  intermarriages  with  ether  nations  have 
become  so  frequent,  and  the  demoralizing  tendency  of  their 
intercourse  with  the  traders  has  been  so  great,  that  it  has 
led  them  to  neglect  practices  which  were  recommended 
to  them  by  a  venerable  antiquity. 

The  form  of  courtship  which  existed  formerly,  is 
stated  to  have  been  as  follows  •,  when  a  young  man  had  con- 
ceived an  attachment  for  a  female,  or  that  he  wished  to 
make  her  his  wife,  he  gave  the  first  intimation  of  his  de- 
sign, by  throwing  a  deer  into  the  lodge  belonging  to  the 
girl's  parent.  This  he  would  repeat  for  several  days,  from 
ten  to  fifteen,  after  which  the  father  usually  asked  him 
what  object  he  had  in  doing  so,  and  whether  it  was  to  ob- 
tain his  daughter.  The  young  man  having  replied  in  the 
affirmative,  the  relations  of  the  girl  would,  if  they  approv- 
ed of  the  connexion,  prepare  a  dress  for  the  youth,  which 
they  would  take  to  his  house,  and  there  cne  damsel's  father 
would  invest  him  with  it.  He  would  then  take  him  home 
with  him  and  introduce  him  to  the  bride ;  there  the  lover 
remained  for  the  space  of  ten  or  twelve  days,  until  his 


Bui 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETER's    RIVER. 


113 


t,  not  to  feel 
ion  has  passed 
jies  so  many 
lem  originally, 
iteract  the  ef- 
raised  so  many 
to  distinguish 
ted  to  these  na- 
•esting  customs, 
"ormerly  preya- 
}  more  to  be  re- 
r  marriage  cere- 
Tom  the  face  of 
ler  nations  have 
endency  of  their 
;reat,  that  it  has 
e  recommended 


friends  had  prepared  the  presents  they  intended  for  his 
wife's  family,  and  had  taken  them  to  their  house.  It  was 
usual  for  the  young  couple  to  dwell  with  the  wife's  parents 
for  the  term  of  a  year,  during  which  time  the  husband 
was,  as  it  were,  a  servant  in  the  family,  giving  to  his  fa- 
ther-in-law all  the  produce  of  his  hunt.  At  the  expiration 
of  this  term,  he  was  at  liberty  to  remove  his  wife  to  his 
own  house,  and  treat  her  as  he  pleased.  The  opinion 
which  is  entertained  by  the  Missouri  Indians,  and  by  all 
those  who  reside  along  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  that  it 
would  be  the  height  of  indecorum  in  a  man  to  speak,  or 
even  to  look  upon  his  son-in-law,  does  not  exist  at  pre- 
sent, and  is  believed  never  to  have  prevailed  among  the 
Potawatomis.  The  power  of  the  husband  over  his  wife 
was  unlimited,  he  might  even  put  her  to  death  if  he  chose, 
and  she  had  lost  all  claim  to  the  sympathy  and  protection 
of  her  own  relations.  They  never  would  resent  any  treat- 
ment which  she  had  been  made  to  endure.  There  was  no 
fixed  time  for  marrying ;  girls  were  sometimes  betrothed 
at  a  very  early  age,  long  before  maturity.  The  presents 
which  it  was  customary  to  make,  were  of  the  most  valua- 
ble kind,  and  consisted  of  horses,  venison,  guns,  &c.  In 
some  instances  it  happened  that  the  parties  were  mutually 
attached,  and  that  they  contracted  a  secret  engagement, 
marrying  without  ♦Jie  consent  of  their  parents.  But  these 
breaches  of  ceremony  were  usually  made  up,  by  the  inter- 
change of  presents  between  the  parents  on  both  sides,  who 
then  confirmed  the  marriage. 

It  was  usual  for  them,  when  an  Indian  married  one  of 
several  sisters,  to  consider  him  as  wedded  to  all ;  and  it 
became  incumbent  upon  him  to  take  them  all  as  wives. 
The  marrying  of  a  brother's  widow  was  not  interdicted, 
but  was  always  looked  upon  as  a  very  improper  connexion. 

Vol.  I.  15 


iTM^rtM 


\  ¥ ;;;.!! 


Ir  i  I 


m'i 


mi:  ■ 


114 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


%.: 


The  union  of  persons  related  by  blood  was  likewise  dis- 
liked, and  discouraged.  An  incestuous  connexion  was  at 
all  times  considered  as  highly  criminal,  but  no  punishment 
was  attached  to  it  Instances  of  it  are  not,  however,  as 
rare  as  might  be  expected.  Among  the  Potawatomis  we 
heard  of  several.  We  were  told  at  Chicago  of  two  cases, 
which  were  accompanied  by  circumstances  of  an  aggra- 
vating nature.  A  Potawatomi  of  the  name  of  W'k-gi-kd'- 
nd-g6'n,  died  a  short  time  since,  aged  about  fifty ;  he  had 
married  his  mother-in-law,  previous  to  which  he  had  been 
connected  with  two  of  his  daughters.  He  denied  the  con- 
nexion with  his  elder  daughter,  who,  however,  acknowledg- 
ed that  he  had  seduced  her,  by  promising  to  teach  her  a  spell 
by  which  she  would  be  enabled  to  destroy  her  enemies,  by 
writing  their  names  on  sand.  A  few  months  afterwards, 
he  was  detected  in  an  intercourse  with  his  second  daugh- 
ter, whom  he  had  likewise  seduced.  Both  the  women  open- 
ly confessed  their  guilt,  but  with  very  little  appearance  of 
shame.  This  did  not  prevent  their  marrying  subsequent- 
ly. After  these  abominable  transactions,  he  married  their 
grandmother,  who  was  the  mother  of  his  first  wife.  Ano- 
ther man  belonging  to  the  same  nation,  and  who  had  be- 
come a  chief  by  the  death  of  his  brotlier,  is  known  to  hav» 
had  intercourse  with  a  woman  that  was  the  mother  of  his 
first  wife.  He  afterwards  deserted  both,  and  took  a  third 
wife.  The  two  other  women,  both  mother  and  daugh- 
ter, were  subsequently  married;  this  man's  name  was 
0-zkn-6'-t*4p,  (  Yellow-head.  J  But  all  thrse  connexions  are 
held  in  utter  abhorrence  by  the  nation  at  large,  and  those 
who  contract  them  are  considered  as  base  and  worthless 
members  of  the  community. 

The  circumstances  which  attend  funerals  are  likewise 
worthy  of  notice.     They  have,  it  is  true,  but  few  ccremo- 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


115 


likewise  dis- 
nexion  was  at 
10  punishment 
,  however,  as 
atawatomls  we 
)  of  two  cases, 
s  of  an  aggra- 
of  Vf'k-gk-W- 
it  fifty,  he  had 
ch  he  had  been 
denied  the  con- 
er,  acknowledg- 
teachheraspell 
her  enemiis,  by 
fnths  afterwards, 
s  second  daugh- 
he  women  open- 
le  appearance  of 
ing  subsequent- 
e  married  their 
irstwife.    Ano- 
md  who  had  be- 
[s  known  to  hav» 
le  mother  of  his 
land  took  a  third 
|ther  and  daugh- 
lan's  name  was 
|e  connexions  are 
[large,  and  those 
le  and  worthless 

lals  are  likewise 
1  but  few  ceremo- 


nies at  the  time  of  the  removal  of  the  corpse  ;  but  the  man- 
ner in  which  this  duty  is  performed  deserves  mention. 
The  greatest  pains  are  taken  that  all  should  be  transacted 
in  the  most  decorous  manner ;  the  spot  selected  is  always 
as  dry  as  the  circumstances  of  the  place  will  admit  of.  The 
body  of  the  deceased  is  clothed  in  his  best  garments,  and, 
if  the  relations  can  afford  it,  new  clothes  are  obtained 
for  this  purpose.  His  moccassins,  rifle,  knife,  money, 
silver  ornaments,  in  fine,  the  whole  of  his  property  are 
placed  near  him :  the  corpse  is  laid  with  its  face  turned  to 
the  east.  A  small  quantity  of  food  is  placed  near  the  head. 
The  funeral  is  generally  attended  by  all  the  relations,  who 
express  their  grief  by  weeping ;  but  yells,  dances,  &c.  are 
not  customary  on  such  occasions.  The  deceased  is  buried 
in  an  erect,  seated,  or  inclined  posture,  according  to  the 
wishes  and  directions  which  he  may  have  given  previously 
to  his  death,  for  these  are  always  most  implicitly  obeyed. 
The  graves  in  which  they  are  buried  are  generally  from 
four  to  five  feet  in  depth.  If  the  deceased  had  previously 
to  his  death  expressed  a  wish  to  be  deposited  in  a  tree,  this 
is  attended  to ;  otherwise  the  corpse  is  always  interred. 
When  the  corpse  is  to  be  deposited  in  a  tree,  it  is  first  sowed 
up  in  a  blanket,  and  this  is  suspended  to  the  branches. 
The  friends  of  the  deceased  visit  it  frequently,  until  they 
observe  that  the  body  is  decaying ;  they  then  shake  hands 
with  it,  and  bid  it  a  last  farewell ;  but  even  after  this  they 
return  yearly  to  visit  the  spot  where  it  is  deposited,  and 
they  uniformly  leave  some  food  near  it.  At  the  time  of 
the  funeral,  they  frequently  light  a  fire  near  the  head  of 
the  grave,  and  upon  this  they  prepare  their  feast,  throw- 
ing a  part  of  the  food  on  the  grave  for  the  use  of  their 
friend.  If  they  have  whiskey,  they  likewise  scatter  some 
on  the  ground,  but  of  this  they  are  sparing,  doubtless  from 


116 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


iiiii;t« 


I  ! 


the  belief  tliat  the  living  require  it  much  more  tlian  the 
dead.  An  invocation  is  then  made  to  the  deceased,  who 
is  entreated  to  speed  his  course  direct  to  the  Great  Prairie, 
without  casting  his  eyes  back ;  for  they  hold,  that  if  on 
his  way  to  the  land  of  Spirits,  he  were  to  look  behind  Y '  m, 
it  would  bring  ill  luck  upon  some  one  of  his  relations,  to 
whom  it  would  be  a  signal,  that  his  company  was  required 
by  his  departed  friend.  It  is  usual  to  mark  the  grave  with 
a  post,  on  which  are  inscribed  in  hieroglyphics  the  deeds 
of  the  deceased,  whether  in  the  way  of  hunting  or  of  fight- 
ing. It  is  not  uncommon  for  the  survivors  to  adopt  a  male 
Or  female  child  as  a  substitute  for  their  lost  relative.  When 
they  bury  a  corpse  in  a  trough  hollowed  out  of  a  tree,  they 
prefer  one  of  ash  wood,  as  they  observe  that  it  is  less  easily 
penetrated  by  water. 

We  are  informed,  that  they  profess  to  have  been  well 
acquainted  with  the  art  of  making  maple  sugar  previous 
to  their  intercourse   with  the   whites.     Our   interpreter 
sta*e&,  that  having  once  expressed  his  doubts  on  the  sub- 
ject in  the  presence  of  Jos6  Renard,  a  Kickapoo  chief,  the 
latter  ausw^ered  him  immediately,  with  a  smile,  "  can  it 
be  that  thou  art  so  simple  as  to  ask  me  such  a  question, 
seeing  that  the  Master  of  Life  has  imparted  to  us  an  instinct 
which  enables  us  to  substitute  stone  hatchets  and  knives  for 
those  made  of  steel  by  the  whites  ;  wherefore  should  we 
not  have  known  as  well  as  they  how  to  manufacture  sugar? 
lie  has  made  us  all,  that  we  should  enjoy  life ;  he  has  placed 
before  us  all  the  requisites  for  the  support  of  existence, 
food,  water,  fire,  trees  &c. ;  wherefore  then  should  he  have 
withheld  from  us  the  art  of  excavating  the  trees  in  order 
to  make  troughs  of  them,  of  placing  the  sap  in  these,  of 
heating  the  stones  and  throwing  them  into  the  sap  so  as 
to  cause  it  to  boil,  and  by  this  means  reducing  it  into 


SOURCE    OP    ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


117 


Lore  than  the 
3ceased,  who 
ireat  Prairie, 

d,  that  if  on 
k  behind  I- "m, 
s  relations,  to 
T  was  required 
.he  grave  with 
hies  the  deeds 
ing  or  of  fight- 
to  adopt  a  male 
elative.  When 
of  a  tree,  they 
:  it  is  less  easily 

have  been  well 
sugar  previous 
)ur   interpreter 
its  on  the  sub- 
:apoo  chief,  the 
smile,  "  can  it 
iuch  a  question, 
to  us  an  instinct 
and  knives  for 
jfore  should  we 
lufacture  sugar? 
;  he  has  placed 
irt  of  existence, 
should  he  have 
^e  trees  in  order 
sap  in  these,  of 
|o  the  sap  so  as 
[educing  it  into 


)» 


sugar."  In  this  short  reply  of  the  Kickapoo,  we  have  a 
brief  skt  xh  of  the  rude  process  practised  by  the  Indians 
in  the  preparation  of  the  maple  sugar.  Previously  to  this 
they  had  learned  the  art  of  making  and  using  pottery,  but 
had  abandoned  it  for  the  purpose,  as  Metea  told  us,  of  using 
wooden  troughs,  and  hot  stones,  perhaps  because  their  pot- 
tery did  not  stand  fire  well.  The  evaporation  resulting 
from  the  action  of  the  hot  stones,  produced  a  crystallization 
of  sugar  in  the  trough.  Their  process  was  a  tedious  and 
imperfect  one,  which  probably  required  much  time  before 
it  could  be  improved ;  to  use  the  language  of  Nacoma, 
a  Delaware,  "  Brother,  there  is  a  great  difference  between 
the  white  man  and  the  Indian ;  we  believe  that  we  are 
not  endowed  with  the  same  natural  advantages  which  you 
possess,  since  we  discover  those  things  alone  which  nature 
places  before  us ;  we  derive  advantage  of  such  tools  and 
implements  as  she  has  provided  for  us,  only  so  far  as 
they  appear  to  us  useful,  but  without  any  attempt  to  in- 
quire into  their  nature;  you,  on  the  contrary,  have  re- 
ceived from  the  Master  of  Life,  the  disposition  to  erect  to 
yourselves  a  system  of  education  that  enables  you  to  trea- 
sure up  the  knowledge  which  you  may  have  acquired,  to 
endeavour  to  prosecute  your  discoveries,  to  make  new 
applications  of  them,  and  to  dive  into  those  things  with 
which  you  are  unacquainted."  We  shall  have  an  opportu- 
nity of  comparing  these  ideas  of  the  Delaware  chief  with  the 
reflexions  made  by  a  Sauk  Indian,  who  attended  the  expe- 
dition as  a  guide,  and  we  shall  be  confirmed  in  the  belief 
that,  with  all  their  apparent  contempt  for  the  whites,  the  In- 
dians are  frequently  obliged  to  acknowledge  the  superiority 
of  the  civilized  man,  which  however  they  improperly  con- 
sider as  the  cause,  and  not  as  the  effect  of  civilization. 
The  use  of  salt  previously  to  the  arrival  of  Europeans  is 


us 


KXrEPITION    ro  THE 


';ii  ^11  =■;' 


'ii  J*  I 


likewise  claimed  by  tlie  Indians.  They  trace  the  origin  of 
their  acquaintance  \vith  this  valuable  condiment,  to  the  ob- 
servation of  the  preference  given  by  elks  to  the  water  from 
salt  licks ;  having  tasted  it,  they  liked  it,  and  took  some  to 
boil  their  vegetables  with,  and  having  found  it  palatable, 
they  boiled  down  the  water  in  the  manner  that  they  had 
done  the  sap,  and  thus  obtained  salt  It  is  not  improbable, 
that  the  sediments  of  white  salt,  which  are  frequently  ob- 
served dr.ring  dry  seasons,  in  the  vicinity  of  salt  springs, 
may  have  taught  them  that  it  was  by  evaporation  that  the 
substance  could  be  separated  from  the  water  which  holds 
it  in  solution ;  for  although  the  Indians  were  totally  ignorant 
of  the  nature  and  causes  of  evaporation,  they  had  noticed 
the  process,  and  were  aware,  that  it  could  result  :s  well 
from  the  action  of  fire  as  from  that  of  the  sun. 

Prior  to  their  intercourse  with  white  men,  it  appears 
that  these  Indians  were  not  acquainted  with  any  intoxi- 
cating liquors ;  if  we  except  a  decoction  of  a  plant  resem- 
bling the  whortleberry,  which  was  used  by  the  Chippe- 
was  in  cases  of  sickness  only ;  it  produced  vertigo.  As 
this  fact  was  ascertained  by  Dr.  Hall  at  Chicago,  where  the 
Chippewas  and  Potawatomis  frequently  meet,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  the  latter  were  also  acquainted  with  it,  but 
it  was  never  used  except  in  cases  of  sickness.  To  the 
Europeans  they  are  therefore  indebted  for  all  the  evils 
which  have  attended  too  free  a  use  of  spirituous  liquors. 

The  Potawatomis  are  not  divided  into  tribes,  designated 
by  the  name  of  animals,  as  is  reported  to  be  the  case  with 
the  Missouri  Indians,  but  they  are  distinguished  merely 
from  their  local  habitations.  Those  that  live  on  the  St. 
Joseph  form  a  small  tribe,  in  every  respect  similar  to 
those  residing  near  Chicago,  or  near  Lake  Michigan.  Al- 
though not  divided  into  regular  tribes,  they  have  a  sort  of 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


119 


e  the  origin  of 
lent,  to  the  ob- 
he  water  from 
d  took  some  to 
nd  it  palatable, 
that  they  had 
lot  improbable, 
frequently  ob- 
of  salt  springs, 
jration  that  the 
ter  which  holds 
totally  ignorant 
hey  had  noticed 
d  result  :s  well 
sun. 

men,  it  appears 
vith  any  intoxi- 
if  a  plant  resem- 
by  the  Chippe- 
ied  vertigo.     As 
licago,  where  the 
meet,  it  is  not 
inted  with  it,  but 
Ickness.    To  the 
for  all  the  evils 
rituous  liquors. 
Tibes,  designated 
be  the  case  with 
iguished  merely 
live  on  the  St. 
ispect  similar  to 
Michigan.    Al- 
ey  have  a  sort  of 


family  distinction,  kept  up  by  means  of  signs  resembling 
those  of  heraldry.  These  signs  are  by  them  called  T'6-td'in ; 
they  are  taken  from  an  animal  or  from  some  part  of  it,  but  by 
no  means  imply  a  supposed  relationship  with  that  animal,  as 
has  been  incorrectly  stated.  It  is  merely  a  distinguishing 
mark  or  badge,  which  appears  to  belong  to  every  member  of 
a  family,  whether  male  or  female.  The  latter  retain  it  even 
after  matrimony,  and  do  not  assume  that  of  their  husbands. 
It  does  not  appear  that  this  implies  the  least  obligation  of 
the  Indian,  to  the  animal  from  which  it  is  taken.  He  may 
kill  it  or  eat  it.  The  totem  appears  to  answer  no  other 
purpose  than  that  of  distinguishing  families ;  it  does  not 
imply  any  degree  of  nobility  or  inequality  of  rank  among 
them.  It  is  the  same  custom,  which  is  improperly  at- 
tributed by  Carver  to  the  Dacota  or  Sioux  Indians,  (Nau- 
dowessie.) 

Independently  of  the  name  which  he  bears,  and  of  the 
totem  or  bf  dge  of  family  to  which  he  lays  claim,  an  In- 
dian has  frequently  a  kind  spirit  to  watch  over  him  a  d 
assist  him.  This  tutelar  saint  is  of  course  held  in  high  ve- 
neration, and  nothing  is  done  that  could  in  the  least  offend 
him.  The  mode  in  which  each  Indian  becomes  acquainted 
with  the  name  or  nature  of  this  ministering  spirit,  is  by 
dreams,  in  which  he  fancies  that  the  Master  of  Life  re- 
veals himself  to  him  in  his  sleep,  under  the  form  of  some 
tangible  object  in  creation,  generally  of  an  animal ;  under 
this  shape  the  Great  Spirit  holds  converse  with  him,  and 
the  Indian  ever  after  supposes  that  this  is  the  form  in 
which  he  may  expect  to  see  the  Great  Spirit  appear  to 
him.  To  this  animal,  whom  he  considers  as  a  medium  of 
communication  between  him  and  the  Master  of  Life,  he 
addresses  his  prayers  and  states  his  wants ;  he  consults  it 
In  all  his  difficulties,  and  not  unfrequently  conceives  that 


120 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


m. 


he  has  derived  relief  from  it.  Of  course,  he  abstains  fron» 
eating  of  the  animal,  and  would  rather  starve  than  sacrile- 
giously feed  upon  his  idol.  But  he  holds  the  animal  as  a 
friend  to  himself  alone.  He  knows  that  others  have  differ- 
ent spirits,  and  hence  does  not  think  himself  bound  to  pro- 
tect that  animal  against  his  companions,  because  he  knows 
that  there  is  no  virtue  in  the  animal  for  any  one  but  him- 
self. Sometimes,  instead  of  the  whole  animal,  it  is  only  in 
some  part  of  it  that  the  charm  resides,  and  in  this  case  he 
will  feel  no  hesitation  in  eating  of  all  the  other  parts  of  the 
beast. 

In  their  conversation,  the  Indians  frequently  display 
considerable  humour.  Their  attempts  at  wit  are  nume- 
rous, and  often  successful ;  but  their  wit  as  well  as  the 
general  tenour  of  their  conversation,  is  obscene ;  in  proof 
of  this,  we  might,  if  it  were  necessary,  mention  several  in- 
stances ;  but  they  have  been  so  frequently  noticed  by  the 
travellers  that  have  preceded  us,  that  we  feel  ourselves 
excused  from  doing  it.  As  an  instance  of  an  attempt  at 
what  they  consider  as  wit,  the  following  was  related  to  us; 
an  Indian  called  for  milk ;  when  they  were  about  to  give 
him  some,  he  pointed  to  a  whiskey  bottle,  and  observed 
that  it  was  the  milk  of  that  black  cow,  tha*.  he  wanted. 
Such  an  observation  is  sure  to  draw  peals  of  laughter  from 
all  about  them,  which  encourages  them  to  proceed.  But 
perhaps,  the  most  remarkable  trait  in  their  conversation 
is,  that  they  feel  none  of  that  delicacy  or  restraint,  which 
among  civilized  nations  has  proscribed  many  words  from 
general  use.  With  them  every  idea  which  enters  into  their 
head,  or  every  word  which  they  think  of,  is  uttered  with- 
out any  respect  for  the  company  present  With  this 
apparent  obscenity  in  their  conversation,  the  Indians  are 
very  guarded  in  their  actions,  and  their  manners  indicate 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER'S    RIVER. 


121 


abstains  from 
5  than  sacrilc- 
le  animal  as  a 
rs  have  differ- 
;  bound  to  pro- 
ause  he  knows 
r  one  but  him- 
al,  it  is  only  in 
in  this  case  he 
her  parts  of  the 

^uently  display 
wit  are  nume- 
as  well  as  the 
scene;  in  proof 
ntion  several  in- 
noticed  by  the 
[e  feel  ourselves 
,f  an  attempt  at 
as  related  to  us; 
•e  about  to  give 
ie,  and  observed 
tha*.  he  wanted, 
of  laughter  from 
:o  proceed.     But 
leir  conversation 
restraint,  which 
lany  words  from 
enters  into  their 
is  uttered  with- 
ient    With  this 
the  Indians  are 
lanners  indicate 


a  considerable  degree  of  native  modesty.  In  this  they 
generally  excel  the  white  men  who  live  with  them;  and 
it  is  a  fact,  well  attested  by  th.  experience  of  all  who 
have  spent  any  time  among  them,  that  they  arc  seldom  or 
never  observed  in  an  obsoonc  or  indecorous  attitude. 

Mctea  was  asked,  whether  he  had  ever  heard  of  any  tra- 
dition accounting  for  the  formation  of  those  artificial 
mounds,  which  are  found  scattered  over  the  whole  country ; 
when  he  immediately  replied,  that  they  had  been  constructed 
by  the  Indians  as  fortifications,  before  white  men  had  come 
among  them.  "  After  men  had  been  made,"  said  he,  "  they 
scattered  themselves  over  the  surface  of  thi  earth,  anJ  lost 
all  knowledge  of  each  other.  When  they  afterwards  met, 
it  was  with  fear  and  caution ;  thty  were  engaged  in  wars, 
during  which  they  erected  these  works,  which  served  for 
defence,  until  treaties  and  alliances  were  made  between 
them."  He  has  always  heard  this  origin  ascribed  to  them, 
and  has  known  three  of  those  constructions  which  are 
supposed  to  have  been  made  by  his  nation.  One  is  at  the 
fork  of  the  Kankakee  and  the  Des  Plaines  rivers,  a  second 
on  the  Ohio,  which,  from  his  description,  was  supposed  to 
be  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum ;  he  visited  it,  but  could 
not  describe  the  spot  very  accurately;  and  a  third,  which 
he  had  also  seen,  he  states  to  be  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
St  Joseph  of  Lake  Michigan.  This  latter  is  at  about 
forty  miles  north-west  of  Fort  Wayne,  and  five  or  six 
miles  distant  from  an  Indian  village  called  Mangokwa, 
on  a  small  stream  which  empties  into  the  St  Joseph ;  it  is 
a  round  hill  about  as  large  as  Fort  Wayne.  Major  Long, 
who  has  seen  those  on  the  St  Joseph  and  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Kankakee,  on  a  former  visit  to  this  country,  considers 
them  as  natural,  and  not  artificial  elevations.  One  of  the 
Miami  chiefs  whom  the  traders  have  named  Legros,  once 
told  Barron  that  he  had  heard  that  his  father  had  fought 


Vol.  I. 


16 


i!    ■;■-•■! 


'A-^f 


m 


122 


EXPEniTION    TO    THE 


;l   IHi 


r.i 


i.HI 


wilh  his  tribe  in  one  of  the  forts  at  Piqua;  that  the  fort 
had  been  erected  by  the  Indians  against  the  French,  and 
that  his  father  had  been  killed  during  one  of  the  assaults 
made  upon  it  by  the  French. 

The  chiefdom  is  hereditary  among  the  Potawatomis. 
If  a  chief  should  be  destitute  of  male  heirs,  sons  or  ne- 
phews, he  assembles  tlie  warriors  of  his  tribe,  and  ap- 
points one  of  them  as  his  successor.  Should  he  die  without 
leaving  any  male  heir,  and  without  having  adopted  any, 
then  the  warriors  convene  and  appoint  one  of  their  num- 
ber to  succeed  to  the  vacant  dignity ;  "  for  a  nation  cannot 
exist"  says  Metea  "without  a  leader."  In  their  councils 
no  regular  debate  takes  place.  The  first  man  who  is 
nominated  as  chief,  generally  unites  all  votes ;  it  is  evi- 
dent that  much  must  depend  upon  the  influence  of  him  who 
nominates  a  candidate.  It  is,  however,  usual  to  ascertain 
the  wish  of  the  people  beforehand,  and  for  thii  reason  they 
are  always  consulted. 

In  like  manner,  if  a  man  be  desirous  of  leading  a  war- 
party,  he  mentions  it  to  others,  secures  their  assistance, 
and  then  publicly  announces  his  intention  in  the  vil- 
lage, when  such  as  please  follow  him.  Previous  to  his 
departure,  he  performs  his  religious  ceremonies,  and  pre- 
pares what  is  termed  his  "  medicine"  or  spell,  by  which 
he  hopes  to  insure  success.  If  the  chief  of  the  village  be 
opposed  to  the  scheme,  he  undertakes  to  prevent  it,  by 
influencing  their  superstitious  fears.  To  this  effect,  he 
counteracts,  as  they  suppose,  the  spells  prepared  by  the 
warrior,  by  walking  round  him  in  a  circle,  and  then  re- 
suming his  place.  This  they  so  firmly  believe  to  vitiate 
the  medicine,  that  it  immediately  puts  a  stop  to  the  expe- 
dition. The  power  of  the  chief  appears  to  rest  exclusively 
upon  his  personal  influence.  He  can  use  no  coercive  mea- 
sures to  obtain  what  he  wishes,  or  prevent  what  he  dis- 


SOURCE   OP    ST.    PETER^S    RIVER. 


123 


that  the  fort 

French,  and 

of  the  assaults 

Potawatomis. 
s,  sons  or  ne- 
tribe,  and  ap- 
he  die  without 
;  adopted  any, 
,  of  their  num- 
a  nation  cannot 
n  their  councils 
st  man  who  is 
otes;  it  is  evi- 
jnceof  himwho 
ual  to  ascertain 
I  thii  reason  they 

'  leading  a  war- 
their  assistance, 
ion  in  the  vil- 
previous  to  his 
lonies,  and  pre- 
spell,  by  which 
)f  the  village  be 
prevent  it,  by 
this  effect,  he 
irepared  by  the 
[le,  and  then  re- 
lelieve  to  vitiate 
jtop  to  the  expe- 
rest  exclusively 
no  coercive  mea- 
nt what  he  dis- 


likes. Although  the  Indians  have  notions  of  right  and 
wrong,  they  have  no  means  of  rewarding  the  former  and 
redressing  the  latter;  the  chief  cannot  punish  a  man  for 
any  offence  whatsoever.  If  the  crime  committed  be  flagrant, 
the  party  that  deems  itself  injured  may  seek  for  redress  in 
a  forcible  manner,  but  there  is  no  mode  of  obtaining  it  by 
fair  and  legal  means.  In  some  cases,  however,  a  breach  of 
faith  may  be  punished ;  if,  for  instance,  a  chief  wishes  to 
undertake  a  military  operation,  he  convenes  Iiis  warriors, 
and  states  his  views;  should  they  agree  to  it,  th°y  dtilare 
their  assent  by  presenting  him  with  a  string  of  wampum, 
which  is  kept  as  an  evidence  of  their  acquiescence.  Should 
any  one  of  those  who  have  agreed  to  go,  afterwards  break 
his  promise,  he  is  liable  to  be  punished  by  forfeiture  of 
part  of  his  property,  or  by  expulsion  from  the  village.  A 
string  of  wampum  is  sometimes  sent  from  one  village  to 
another,  with  a  piece  of  tobacco  attached  to  it  as  a  proof  of 
the  faith  of  the  messenger.  It  has  often  been  stated,  that 
the  Indians  in  no  instance  whatever  punished  their  children. 
This  is  not  correct  as  a  general  rule.  Mr.  Colhoun  was  in- 
formed, that  the  Potawatomis  sometimes  enjoin  upon  their 
children,  as  a  punishment,  the  use  of  the  charcoal  and  its 
accompanying  fast.  He  also  observes,  that  the  circupi- 
stance  of  chastisement  being  inflicted  by  some  Indians,  is 
confirmed  by  JoutePs  statement,  that  the  Illinois  and 
Cadoquias  punished  their  children  by  throwing  water  in 
their  faces  ;  and  by  Jones's  observations,  that  the  Shawa- 
nese  had  the  same  practice,  and  likewise  threw  them  into 
brooks.*     The  power  of  the  chief  is  only  exercised  as 

•  Vide  "Journal  Historique  du  dernier  Voyage  de  M.  de  la  Salle,  par 
Joutel."  Paris,  1713,  p.  284  and  342,  and  "  Journal  of  two  visits  to  some 
nations  of  Indians  west  of  Ohio  river,  in  ^772  and  1773,  by  Rev,  D. 
Jones." 


m 


124 


EXPEDITION    TO   THJJ 


m    r, ::. 


Ior.g  as  hf;  behaves  himself  in  a  manner  agreeable  to  the 
wishes  of  his  warriors,  for  though  the  dignity  be  a  heredi- 
tary one,  it  is  not  uncommon  for  them  to  depose  their 
chiefs.  The  principal  prerogative  of  the  chief  is  to  con- 
duct all  military  operations ;  when  once  war  is  declared, 
he  cannot  conclude  peace  without  the  consent  of  his  war- 
riors. The  duty  of  dividing  the  annuity  paid  to  them  by 
the  United  States'  Government,  likewise  devolves  upon  the 
chief.  Formerly  the  partition  was  made  by  him  in  the 
manner  that  he  thought  best,  but  some  cases  of  malversa- 
tion have  led  to  a  different  method.  The  money  is  paid 
to  the  principal  chief  of  the  nation,  who  calls  his  people 
round  him,  places  them  in  a  circle,  and  then  throws  a  dol- 
lar to  each,  all  round,  continuing  this  operation  until  the 
whole  of  the  money  be  disposed  of.  In  this  division  the 
father  of  a  family  receives  an  equal  share  for  every  indi- 
vidual in  his  household,  whether  male  or  female,  child  or 
adult  The  annuities  paid  to  the  Miamis  amount  to  eighteen 
tho'isand  dollars.  The  last  census,  taken  a  few  years  since, 
made  their  numbers  eleven  hundred  and  seventy-two,  of 
whom  three  hundred  were  warrior«.  An  accurate  amount 
of  the  Potawatomi  population  could  not  be  obtained  here ; 
it  has  been  variously  stated ;  we  heard  it  rated  at  ten  thou- 
sand, which  is  probably  far  beyond  the  true  number.  Those 
who  receive  their  annuities  at  Fort  Wayne,  are  not  nume- 
rous, and  the  census  of  Indians  in  the  state  of  Illinois  does 
not  admit  of  more  than  twelve  hundred  Potawatomis.  The 
payment  of  their  annuities  on  the  United  States'  territory, 
is  very  much  to  be  regretted ;  they  ought  to  be  paid  to  them 
on  the  Indian  reservations,  where  by  a  humano  law  no 
spirituous  liquors  can  be  sold ;  if  some  means  were  taken  of 
holding  a  sort  of  fair  for  cattle,  and  implements  of  agricul- 
ture, at  the  time  that  the  annuity  is  paid,  they  might,  per- 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  PETEK  S  RIVER. 


125 


haps,  be  induced  to  apply  to  the  purchase  of  useful  objects, 
the  money  which  is  at  present  wasted  in  procuring  spirits. 
Under  the  present  system,  the  moment  an  Indian  receives 
his  annuity,  he  immediately  converts  it  into  whiskey ;  the 
deplorable  effects  of  which  upon  their  system  are  too  well 
known  to  require  that  we  should  dwell  upon  them ;  but  we 
may  be  permitted  to  add  the  testimony  of  what  came  under 
our  own  inspection,  to  the  great  mass  of  information  which 
has  already  transpired  on  this  subject  During  the  three  days 
that  we  stayed  at  Fort  Wayne,  we  saw  two  Indians  toma- 
hawked. The  first  case  happened  the  night  of  our  arrival ; 
this  man  was  eery  severely  cut  in  the  head  by  some 
unknown  person.  It  was  supposed  tliat  it  was  by  one 
of  the  French  engagh.  At  the  time  this  occurred,  they 
were  all  concerned  in  a  drunken  frolic.  The  next  day, 
on  visiting  the  Fort,  we  met  at  the  gate  a  few  Indians, 
one  of  whom  was  in  a  state  of  intoxication;  and  we 
were  informed  by  a  boy,  that  he  had  threatened  to  shoot 
his  wife.  A  few  moments  after,  while  we  were  en- 
gaged in  conversation  with  the  Indian  Agent,  word  was 
brought  to  him,  that  the  Indian  had  drawn  his  knife  and 
severely  wounded  her  in  the  forehead.  It  appeared  the 
only  provocation  she  had  given  him,  was  in  attempting  to 
draw  him  away  from  the  town,  and  induce  him  to  return 
to  his  village.  In  both  these  cases  the  loss  of  blood  was 
very  considerable,  and  such  that  it  was  believed  none  but 
Indians  could  have  survived  it ;  but  they  are  so  inured  to 
pain  and  privations  of  every  kind,  that  it  cannot  be  doubted 
that  they  recover  from  wounds  which  to  other  men  would 
prove  fatal.  The  excellent  surgical  assistance  which  they 
receive  in  all  cases  of  wounds  and  bruises,  may  also  be 
considered  as  one  of  the  causes  which  tend  to  restore 
them  to  health.    These  assaults  are,  however,  so  common 


111! 
mm 


It;  "'v- 


"lii: 


■II 
■i 

l»|ii,,il; 


I 


iili 


'i  hI  ;t<!i'i  l<  III 


126 


XXPJCDITION    TO   THE 


here,  that  no  one  appears  surprised  at  them ;  they  are  con- 
sidered as  an  every  day  occurrence.  Generally  an  Indian 
will,  after  he  has  recovered  from  his  drunken  frolic,  express 
great  regret  for  the  fatal  effects  which  have  attended  it. 
This  is  peculiarly  the  case  where  he  is  at  a  distance  from 
the  white  population,  and  where  intoxication  has  not  be- 
come with  him  an  habitual  or  daily  vice ;  otherwise  the 
frequent  repetition  of  these  bloody  frays  renders  him  cal- 
lous to  their  consequences.  As  an  instance,  we  were  told, 
that  some  time  since,  when  the  Baptist  Missionary  Society 
were  allowed  to  occupy  Fort  Wayne  as  one  of  their  sta- 
tions, an  Indian  brought  to  the  fort  the  corpse  of  his 
brother,  and  asked  the  Rev.  Mr.  M*Coy,  who  superintended 
the  establishment,  to  provide  for  the  funeral.  On  inquiry, 
Mr.  M*Coy  found  that  the  deceased  had  been  murdered  a 
short  time  before,  by  the  very  Indian  who  had  brought 
him  in.  When  questioned  as  to  the  cause  of  his  brother's 
death,  the  murderer  carelessly  raised  the  clothing  from  the 
breast  of  the  deceased,  and  exhibited  five  or  rix  wounds 
which  he  had  inflicted  with  a  knife,  nor  could  any  emo- 
tion of  compunction  be  observed  in  his  unyielding  coun- 
tenance. These  evils  may  all  be  traced  to  the  unfortu- 
nate circumstance,  that  the  prohibition  to  sell  spirituous 
liquors  to  the  Indians  only  extends  to  their  territory. 
If  congress  were  to  include  in  this  prohibition  all  lands  be- 
longing to  the' United  States,  the  evil  could  be  partly,  if 
not  wholly,  remedied.  The  inducement  to  smuggle  li- 
quor and  sell  it  clandestinely,  might  be  sufficiently  great  to 
prevent  the  mischief  from  being  completely  removed,  but 
it  would  certainly  render  it  rare.  Perhaps,  also,  if  the 
agents  were  required  to  pay  them  their  annuities  on  the 
Indian  reservation,  and  at  a  time  when  an  opportunity  would 
be  given  them  of  laying  out  their  money  in  the  purchase 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


127 


they  are  con- 
ally  an  Indian 
frolic,  express 
re  attended  it. 
distance  from 
in  has  not  be- 
otherwise  the 
nders  him  cal- 
:,  we  were  told, 
sionary  Society 
ne  of  their  sta- 
corpse  of  his 

0  superintended 
al.  On  inquiry, 
een  murdered  a 
ho  had  brought 
.  of  his  brother's 
lothing  from  the 

or  rix  wounds 
could  any  emo- 
myielding  coun- 

1  to  the  unfortu- 
;o  sell  spirituous 

their  territory, 
ion  all  lands  be- 
ild  be  partly,  if 
to  smuggle  li- 
iciently  great  to 
;ly  removed,  but 
laps,  also,  if  the 
nnuities  on  the 
iportunity  would 
in  the  purchase 


of  cattle,  implements  of  agriculture,  and  other  useful  or  in- 
nocent articles,  while  the  introduction  of  spirituous  liquors 
would  be  closely  guarded  against,  the  great  evil  of  intoxi- 
cation would  be  rendered  still  more  rare.  Whatever  mea- 
sures congress  may  choose  to  adopt  to  civilize  the  Indians, 
it  is  not  difficult  to  foresee  that  they  will  ever  prove  un- 
successful, unless  a  check  be  immediately  put  to  the  sale  of 
ardent  liquors  among  them.  The  law  that  prohibits  the 
sale  of  it  upon  their  territory  having  proved  insufficient,  a 
more  general  system  of  restriction  must  be  adopted. 

Experience  has  likewise  proved,  that  the  term  sale  was 
not  sufficiently  comprehensive.  The  giving  of  spirits  ought 
to  be  subjected  to  the  same  regulation ;  for  it  has  been  ob- 
served on  the  Missouri,  as  well  as  on  the  Mississippi,  and 
probably  every  where  throughout  the  Indian  country, 
that  if  prohibited  from  selling  it,  the  traders  will  give  it  to 
the  Indians  as  an  inducement  to  trade  with  them,  taking 
care  that  the  price  of  the  liquor  be  included  in  that  of  the 
tobacco  or  other  article  sold  to  them  at  the  time. 

All  Indians  concur  in  considering  intoxication  as  impro- 
per, and  as  the  source  of  every  evil.  Among  crimes,  those 
that  are  held  to  be  most  atrocious,  are  murder,  theft,  and 
the  violation  of  the  advice  and  directions  of  their  parents. 
Many,  however,  are  said  to  be  "  foolish,"  and  not  sensible 
of  crime.  Rape  is  considered  as  visited  by  the  anger  of  ♦he 
Great  Spirit,  and  is  never  practised  but  upon  females  in  a 
state  of  intoxication.  In  the  treatment  of  their  wives,  they 
are  often  severe  and  brutal ;  if  they  should  prove  lazy,  or 
be  Jiemed  so  by  their  unrelenting  husbands,  or  if  careless 
of  their  children,  they  are  not  unfrequently  beaten  with 
clubs.  Among  women  no  crime  is  considered  so  flagrant 
as  infidelity  to  their  husbands ;  this  is  punished  with  blows, 
and  sometimes  by  cutting  off  the  nose,  or  other  mutilations. 


iW^  Mi 


128 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


Seldom  do  the  Potawatomis  punish  it  by  death,  and  it  is 
very  rare  that  they  vent  their  resentment  against  the  pa- 
ramour. The  barbarous  punishment  noticed  by  Mr.  Say 
in  the  account  of  the  manners  of  the  Otos,  Omawhaws, 
and  other  Missouri  Indians,  which  he  described  under  the 
name  of  the  Round  in  the  Prairie,  Ctour  de  la  prairie  of 
the  Canadians,)  is  not  known  among  the  Potawatomis. 

The  Indians  are  liable  to  more  distempers  than  might 
at  first  be  expected  from  their  mode  of  living.  Croup  is 
one  of  their  most  common  diseases ;  in  some  seasons,  most 
of  the  cases  are  fatal,  while  in  others  all  the  patients  reco- 
ver. No  medicine  is  applied  in  this  disease,  except  the 
maple  sap,  or  sugar  dissolved  in  hot  water.  Adults  find  re- 
lief from  vomiting.  Sore  throat  appears,  also,  to  be  one  of 
their  most  frequent  complaints ,  especially  in  the  morning, 
but  it  soon  passes  off.  They  are  often  bitten  by  rattlesnakes ; 
the  wound  is  cured  among  the  Potawatomis  by  poultices  of 
the  Seneca  snake-root,  draughts  of  violet  tea,  and  Eupato- 
rium  perfoliatum  ;  they  have  other  remedies,  which  they 
keep  secret;  the  venom  of  the  snake  is  considered  greater 
at  some  periods  of  the  moon  than  at  others ;  in  the  month  of 
August  it  is  most  so.  These  Indians  entertain  a  high  degree 
of  veneration  for  the  rattlesnake,  not  that  they  consider  it  in 
the  light  of  a  spirit,  as  has  frequently  but  incoi.'ectly  been 
asserted,  but  because  they  are  grateful  to  it  for  the  timely 
warning  which  it  has  often  given  them,  of  the  approach 
of  an  enemy.  They  therefore  seldom  kill  it,  unless 
when  a  young  man  fancies  that  he  requires  a  rattle,  in 
which  case  he  will  have  no  hesitation  in  killing  a  snake; 
which  act  he,  however,  always  accompanies  by  certain 
forms.  He  introduces  it  by  many  apologies  to  the  animal, 
informing  it  that  he  wants  the  rattle  as  an  ornament  for  his 
person,  and  by  no  means  to  make  fun  of  it,  and  in  testi- 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    FETER's    KIVr.R. 


129 


2ath,  and  it  is 
Lgainst  the  pa- 
i  by  Mr.  Say 
;,  Omawhaws, 
bed  under  the 
e  la  prairie  of 
(tawatomis. 
rs  than  might 
tng.     Croup  is 
e  seasons,  most 
e  patients  reco- 
iase,  except  the 
Adults  find  re- 
iso,  to  be  one  of 
in  the  morning, 
by  rattlesnakes; 
8  by  poultices  of 
>a,  and  Eupato- 
dies,  which  they 
nsidered  greater 
;  in  the  month  of 
iin  a  high  degree 

ley  consider  it  in 
incoi-'ectlybeen 
it  for  the  timely 
of  the  approach 
t  kill  it,  unless 
lires  a  rattle,  in 
killing  a  snake; 
lanies  by  certain 
es  to  the  animal, 
ornament  for  his 
it,  and  in  testi- 


mony of  his  amity  to  the  species,  leaves  a  piece  of  tobacco 
near  the  carcase.  The  fang  of  the  snake  is  held  to  be  a 
charm  against  rheumatism  and  other  interna  pains ;  the 
mode  of  applying  it  consists  in  scratching  the  afl'ected  part 
until  it  bleeds.  In  their  rude  midwifery,  they  use  the  rat- 
tle to  assist  in  parturition ;  it  is  then  administered  inter- 
nally ;  it  is  not,  however,  used  as  an  emmenagogue.  Leprosy 
is  known  among  them,  and  has  been  observed  under  some 
of  its  most  horrible  features.  In  a  case,  known  to  Dr.  Hall, 
the  patient  required  some  one  to  bt  constantly  scraping 
his  body  and  limbs  with  a  kn'fe.  A  double  handful  of 
furfuraceous  matter  was  daily  discharged ;  he  died  in  the 
course  of  six  months ;  his  feet  had  turned  as  black  as  gun- 
powder. 

Fevers  are  common  among  the  Potawatomis,  and  are 
either  bilious,  intermittent,  remittent  or  continued ;  they 
afflict  most  those  who  follow  the  game  to  the  interior  of 
the  country ;  while  those  who  reside  along  the  shores  of 
the  lake  enjoy  much  better  health.  The  Indians  observe 
that  the  easterly  winds  are  the  most  wholesome,  the 
southerly  produce  dullness  and  laziness,  the  north  wind  is 
too  cold,  and  that  from  the  west  is  very  uncomfortable* 
Haepatitis  is  not  common ;  when  it  occurs,  it  is  relieved  by 
repeated  vomiting  until  the  bile  is  completely  evacuated ;  if 
the  bile  be  not  discharged,  the  white  of  the  eye  turns  yellow, 
and  continues  so  until  death  ensues.  Hydrocephalus  and 
dropsy  are,itseems,unknown  to  them.  Small  Pox  is  frequent, 
but  is  always  introduced  by  white  men ;  it  does  not,  how- 
ever, commit  any  great  depredation ;  at  one  time  it  raged 
among  them,  and  proved  disastrous  and  incurable.  Its 
evil  effects  were  suspended  by  the  introduction  of  the 
practice  of  inoculation  and  vaccination,  which  Little  Turtle 
made  known  to  them.     Having  never  known  the  small 

Vol.  L  17 


nil 


li'l 


1^1''  iii.; 


I'M    S 

:|j".:!ii.;>.in 


,fll§ 


130 


t:\VKVlVlOSi    TO   THE 


pox  to  be  violent  but  once,  they  have  not  entertained  that 
opinion,  of  its  return  at  periodical  times,  which  is  said  to 
be  held  by  other  nations.  Dr.  Hall's  offer  to  vaccinate 
them  was  accepted  by  many  and  declined  by  others. 
Metea  told  us  that  vaccination  had  only  been  abandoned 
for  want  of  the  virus,  he  expressed  a  great  wish  to  obtain 
some,  and  said  if  he  had  it,  he  would  use  his  influence  to 
disseminate  it. 

Syphilis  was,  according  to  Metea,  known  to  the  Indians 
in  its  mildest  form  prior  to  the  arrival  of  white  men  among 
them.  It  is  considered  as  having  increased  in  virulence  and 
frequency,  since  the  promiscuous  intercourse  of  white  men 
and  squaws  which  is  not  interrupted,  according  to  the  uni- 
lorm  practice  of  Indians,  during  the  period  of  the  catamenia. 
When  the  disease  is  in  its  mild  state,  they  cure  it  very  readily 
by  timely  application  to  their  medicine  men ;  the  principal 
remedies  are  decoctions  of  the  red  root  and  the  prairie  willow 
root,  as  also  of  sassafras.  In  such  cases  they  drink  very  plenti- 
fully. These  remedies  are  not  applied  to  the  disease  in  its  worst 
forms :  we  heard  that  they  had  remedies  which,  even  in  these 
cases,  were  considered  as  certain,  but  of  which  we  could 
not  ascertain  the  nature.  In  all  such  diseases,  they  apply 
to  their  regular  doctors,  who  are  said  to  charge  very  extra- 
vagant fees.  These  men  combine  the  use  of  spells  with 
that  of  herbs,  and  are  held  in  very  great  esteem.  Their 
materia  medica  consists  of  astringents,  cathartics,  emetics, 
mucilages,  and  sudorifics.  Among  the  emetics  most  in  use, 
we  heard  of  piils  made  from  the  product  of  the  evapora- 
tion of  a  decoction  of  the  horse-chestnut  boiled  down  to  a 
viscous  state.  One  of  their  sudorifics  is  sai  J  to  consist  in 
the  application  of  a  poultice  of  maize,  boiled  as  for  food, 
which  is  spread  over  the  body  of  the  sick  person,  who 
is  first  extended  on  a  board  or  y.kin.     The  maize  used  in 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


131 


;ertained  that 
ch  is  said  to 
to  vaccinate 
;d  by  others, 
en  abandoned 
ash  to  obtain 
s  influence  to 

to  the  Indians 
lite  men  among 
n  virulence  and 
B  of  white  men 
ding  to  the  uni- 
fthecatamenia. 
•e  it  very  readily 
n ;  the  principal 
le  prairie  willow 
ink  very  plenti- 
iseasein  its  worst 
|ch,  even  in  these 
hich  we  could 
;es,  they  apply 
arge  very  extra- 
of  spells  with 
esteem.     Their 
[hartics,  emetics, 
(tics  most  in  use, 
of  the  evapora- 
oiled  down  to  a 
|ai  J  to  consist  in 
liled  as  for  food, 
ck  person,  who 
maize  used  in 


this  application  is  afterwards  used  as  food.  The  berry  of 
the  prickly  ash  is  used  by  them  as  a  warming  medicine 
for  inward  complaints.  They  have  no  vesicatories  but  fire 
and  hot  water,  which  are  applied  for  sore  joints  and  rheu- 
matism. Phlebotomy  is  performed  with  a  small  knife  or 
with  a  thin  lamina  of  flint  attached  to  a  stick  in  the  man- 
ner of  a  fleam,  and  stuck  in  the  flesh  in  the  same  way. 
For  a  pain  in  the  head  they  bleed  in  the  bend  of  the 
arm,  or  above  it ;  for  one  in  the  side  below  the  bend ; 
and  if  the  pain  be  in  the  back  they  bleed  on  the  right  or 
left  ankle  according  as  it  inclines  to  the  right  or  left 
side.  Bleeding  is  never  resorted  to  in  fevers. 

Calculous  symptoms  are  accurately  described,  but  the  dis- 
ease and  its  causes  are  unknown  to  them.  The  process  of 
parturition  is  generally  easy,  the  woman  being  on  her 
knees ;  it  is  sometimes  assisted  by  bending  the  body  over 
a  cord,  the  ends  of  which  are  attached  to  the  top  of  the 
cabin ;  the  funis  is  regularly  tied  and  cut  The  operation  of 
turning  is  unknown ;  no  manual  assistance  is  resorted  to, 
even  in  cases  of  wrong  presentation ;  and  many  instances 
have  occurred  in  which  the  foetus  became  putrid  before  it 
was  expelled.  They  have  professed  midwives,  w^ho  are 
paid  for  their  attendance ;  these  are  principally  old  women. 
Men  are  never  allowed  to  assist  at  the  delivery  of  a  v/oman. 
A  general  opinion  has  prevailed  that  all  Indian  women 
bathed  in  cold  water  immediately  after  parturition.  This 
is  however  extremely  incorrect ;  the  practice  exists  among 
the  Sioux  or  Dacotas,  and  among  many  other  nations,  but 
we  very  much  question  whether  any  nation  of  Algonquin 
origin  practises  it  The  Potawatomi  women  are  very  care- 
ful not  to  expose  themselves  to  cold  after  child-birth,  and 
do  not  bathe  for  ten  days  unless  the  weather  be  very  warm. 
The  placenta  not  being  always  expelled  naturally,  they 


132 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


Ai 


h^^di. 


have  recourse  to  a  strong  medicinal  draught ;  it  is  stated, 
that  if  it  should  remain  for  several  days,  the  husband 
takes  his  wife  upon  his  shoulders,  and  carries  her  about  for 
sometime;  the  motion  is  said  to  assist  in  its  expulsion. 
Mothers  always  nurse  their  children,  and  continue  to  suckle 
them  for  a  great  length  of  time,  in  some  instances  for 
three,  four,  or  more  years,  if  no  subsequent  pregnancy  oc- 
cur ;  in  one  case  a  mother  was  observed  suckling  a  child 
twelve  years  of  age.  When  the  mother's  milk  fails,  the 
child  is  fed  with  an  extract  of  sweet  maize  in  boiling  water, 
and  medicines  are  administered  to  renew  the  secretion. 
Metea  had  never  heard  of  a  total  failure  of  a  woman's 
milk  while  nursing  her  child;  during  a  temporary  in- 
terruption of  it  they  sometimes  commit  children  to  the 
care  of  a  friend,  who  acts  as  a  nurse;  but  this  practice 
is  disapproved  of.  Parturition  is  seldom  fatal :  when 
it  proves  so,  it  is  attributed  to  ignorance  or  carelessness  on 
the  part  of  the  midwife ;  in  women  of  indolent  habit  it  is 
said  to  be  painful,  in  the  active  it  is  much  less  laborious. 
Sterility  is  very  common,  but  does  not  expose  women  to 
contempt,  though  it  is  frequently  the  cause  of  their  being 
cast  off  by  their  husbands.  The  period  of  gestation  varies 
from  eight  to  nine  months,  and  is  seldom  attended  with 
sickness  or  nausea.  Menstruation  commonly  commences 
at  the  age  of  fourteen,  and  continues  until  fifty,  and  in  some 
cases  sixty  years;  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  a  woman 
with  gray  hair,  whose  catamenia  has  not  ceased.  Many 
women  become  disabled  from  child-bearing  by  accidents 
during  their  first  gestation,  although  still  very  young. 
Menstruation  is  often  irregular  with  them ;  when  too 
abundant,  they  have  remedies  which  are  represented  as 
very  successful,  but  which  Metea  declined  indicating,  as  it 
was  not  usual  for  them  to  talk  of  these  things  except  when 


SOUrtCE    OP   ST.    PETER  S    RIVER. 


133 


called  upon  professionally,  and  with  a  fee.  In  a  suppres- 
sion of  menses  they  seldom  apply  any  remedy ;  as  they 
are  apprehensive  that  this  might  be  productive  of  sterility, 
which  is  by  all  Indian  women  considered  as  the  greatest 
curse  that  can  be  entailed  upon  them.  During  the  period 
of  the  catamenia,  women  are  not  allowed  to  associate  with 
the  rest  of  the  nation ;  they  are  completely  laid  aside,  and 
are  not  permitted  to  touch  any  article  of  furniture  or  food 
which  men  have  occasion  to  use.  If  the  Indians  be  sta- 
tionary at  the  time,  the  women  are  placed  outside  of  the 
camp ;  if  on  a  march,  they  are  not  allowed  to  follow  the 
trail,  but  must  take  a  different  path  and  keep  at  a  distance 
from  the  main  body.  This  practice,  which  appears  to  pre- 
vail wherever  man  retains  his  primitive  simplicity  and 
purity  of  manners,  has  been  very  unphilosophically  con- 
sidered by  Adair  and  other  theoretic  writers  as  a  strong 
confirmation  of  the  descent  of  the  aborigines  of  America 
from  the  ten  lost  tribes  of  Israel.  But  as  Charlevoix  ob- 
serves, "  one  must  have  good  eyes,  or  rather  a  very  lively 
imagination  to  perceive  in  them  all  that  some  travellers 
have  pretended  to  discover."*  The  late  Mr.  Samuel 
Prince,  of  Boston,  who  resided  three  or  four  years  in 
Owhyhee,  assured  Mr.  Colhoun  that  the  natives  of  that 
island  are  equally  scrupulous  with  regard  to  the  catamenia, 
and  during  its  continuance ;  the  women  being  secluded  in 
houses  without  the  villages.  This  custom  of  Owhyhee 
has  not,  we  think,  been  noticed  by  any  traveller  that  we 
have  met  with. 

It  has  been  often  asserted  that  it  was  a  common  prac- 
tice with  Indian  women  to  destroy  the  foetus.  This 
may  be  jcorrect  as  respects  certain  nations,  but  it  ought 


*  Charlevoix's  Journal  Historique,  Letter  33d. 


134 


IXPEDITION   TO   THE 


{U> 


by  no  means  to  be  considered  as  applicable  to  all ;  and 
we  know  it  to  be  incorrect  as  respects  the  Potawato- 
mis.  All  tra  Hers  concur  in  representing  them  as  very 
proud  of  the  number  of  their  children.  Where  the  mild 
and  humane  provisions  of  the  Christian  faith  do  not  pre- 
vail, children  form  almost  the  only  link  which  binds  man 
to  woman  for  life.  It  is  the  only  obstacle  to  that  constant 
repudiation  of  wives  which  occurred  previous  to  the  Chris- 
tian dispensation ;  hence,  independent  of  the  moral  turpi- 
tude of  the  deed,  it  would  be  the  height  of  impolicy  in  a 
woman  to  impair  the  strongest  claim  which  she  has  upon 
her  husband's  affections ;  besides  these  considerations,  the 
Potawatomi  woman  is  prevented  from  attempting  infanti- 
cide from  the  fear  which  she  entertains  that  abortion  would 
be  followed  by  the  death  of  the  parent. 

Askabunkese,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  physicians 
among  the  Potawatomis,  being  asked  ^  whether  chlorosis 
was  known  to  them,  said  that  he  did  not  know  it ;  the  wo- 
men were  too  modest  to  inform  the  men.;  and  would  knock 
him  down  with  a  stick  if  he  were  to  inquire  of  them. 

Among  the  Potawatomi,  the  practice  of  medicine  is  con- 
sidered quite  distinct  from  that  of  jugglery.  Both  are  in  great 
repute,  but  it  appears  that  there  is  no  interference.  The 
man  of  medicine  has,  it  is  true,  recourse  to  spells  and  in- 
cantations to  add  to  the  virtue  of  the  plants  which  he  uses; 
but  this  is  totally  unconnected  with  the  avocations  of  the 
sorcerer  and  juggler,  whose  object  is  amusement,  and  who 
are  resorted  to  for  the  recovery  of  lost  articles,  or  to  answer 
questions  about  persons  and  things  at  a  distance,  for  which 
they  sometimes  get  pay  from  the  more  ignorant,  but  they 
are  soon  detected  in  their  clumsy  arts.  The  sorcerers  are 
treated  with  much  respect,  being  held  in  great  awe ;  they 
generally  perform  their  tricks  in  the  twilight,  or  during 


SOURCE   OP   ST.    PETER'S    RIVER. 


133 


the  night  Prophets  formerly  existed  in  ^reat  number, 
and  were  much  revered ;  but  the  failure  which  attended 
the  predictions  made  by  the  great  prophet  of  the  Shawa- 
nese,  the  brother  of  Tecumseh,  has  opened  their  eyes  on 
this  subject,  and  satisfied  them  that  he,  as  well  perhaps  as 
the  others  who  had  enjoyed  reputation  among  them,  was 
merely  a  tool  in  the  hends  of  a  designing  chief,  to  deceive 
the  Indians  into  measures  which  he  wished  to  effect. 

The  Potawatomis  have  a  number  of  war  songs,  formed 
for  the  most  part  of  one  or  two  ideas,  expressed  in  short 
and  forcible  sentc  nces,  which  they  repeat  over  and  over, 
in  a  low  humming  kind  of  tune,  which  to  our  ears  ap- 
peared very  monotonous ;  they  have  no  love  songs,  the 
business  of  singing  being  always  connected  with  warlike 
avocations.  We  took  dov/n  the  words  of  one  of  their  songs 
as  follows : — 

Yd-wi-kwi  t&-m&-n6i  in^-ch^-m6-kd-m4n. 

What  do  I  hear  behind  me  ?  the  Americans 

n^-to-ti-wd-n^-ki  p6-t6-k4-w4, 

are  entering  our  village.   Prepare  yourselves  to  fight. 

Ki-n4-md-td-86  w^-ta-sS  n6-p6-win. 

We  must  die.     Victory  or  death. 

The  translation  of  two  others  is  annexed,  with  a  view 
to  give  an  idea  of  the  purport  of  their  songs.  "  When  I 
march  against  mine  enemies,  the  earth  trembles  under  my 
feet;"  this  is  sung  with  considerable  force  by  a  warrior; 
the  others  joining  in  chorus,  to  the  words  y4,  wi,  often  re- 
peated, and  concluded  with  a  general  whoop. 

Another,  which  is  ver  /  short,  consists  merely  in  the  re- 
petition of  the  words,  "  The  head  of  the  enemy  is  cut  off, 
and  falls  at  my  feet;"  with  the  exclamation  ha-ha-ha,  fre- 
quently repeated. 

Singing  is  always  attended  by  the  dance,  and  if  pos- 


.1"h 


■i#t , 


130 


EXPEDITION    TO   TUB 


rfi,i 


')■  » 


I;  lis  ^1! 


:1H 


sibic,  by  intoxication,  in  whicb  case  it  becomes  incohe- 
rent and  unintelligible.  The  only  musical  instruments 
which  they  use,  are  the  drum,  rattle,  and  a  kind  of  flagc- 
let.  They  have  various  kinds  of  dances  known  by  the 
name  of  the  war  dance,  medicine  dance,  Manito  or  spirit 
dance,  wabano,  metawee,  mewicine,  and  beggar^s  dance. 
Their  games  are  numerous  and  diversified ;  they  resemble 
many  of  those  known  to  civilized  men ;  such  as  gymnastic 
exercises,  battledore,  pitching  the  bar,  ball,  &c.  tennis  and 
cup-ball,  for  which  they  use  the  spur  of  the  deer  with  a 
string  attached  to  it.  They  are  fond  of  games  of  chance, 
particularly  cards,  which  they  have  received  from  traders, 
&c. 

The  Potawatomis  are  for  the  most  part  well  proportion- 
ed, about  five  feet  eight  inches  in  height,  possessed  of  much 
muscular  strength  in  the  arm,  but  rather  weak  in  the  back, 
with  a  strong  neck,  endowed  with  considerable  agility. 
Their  voice  is  feeble  and  low,  but  when  excited  very  shrill ; 
their  teeth  are  sound  and  clean,  but  not  remarkable  for  re- 
gularity. In  persons  of  feeble  habits,  or  of  a  scrophulous 
tendency,  the  teeth  are  found  to  decay  much  faster  than  in 
others.  Dentition  is  said  to  be  a  painful  process  amoni?; 
Indian  children,  a  circumstance  which  we  had  not  exr>ect- 
ed.  Their  complexion  is  very  much  darkened  by  expo- 
sure to  the  sun  and  wind,  while  those  parts  which  are 
kept  covered,  are  observed  to  retain  their  native  bright- 
ness. Children  are  red  when  new-born,  after  a  few  years 
they  assume  the  yellow  colour.  Their  sight  is  quick  and 
penetrating,  but  blindness  is  frequent  from  the  intense  ap- 
plication of  the  eye  in  still  hunting,  and  from  exposure  to 
the  alternate,  and,  in  some  cases,  united  action  of  the  sun 
and  snow ;  doubtless  also  on  account  of  the  constant  smoke 
in  their  huts.    Their  hearing  is  usually  good  when  young ; 


^'-■,i^ 


Vol. 


SOURCE   OP   ST.    PETER*S   RIVER. 


131 


but  is  often  affected  in  old  age,  probably  by  the  effect  of 
cold,  or  the  usually  disordered  state  of  their  stomach. 
T'lCir  olfactory  nerves  are  said  to  be  inferior  in  acutenQ«s 
to  those  of  the  white  man ;  which  is  singular,  considering 
the  extent  of  the  sense  of  smelling  among  wild  animals. 
We  should  have  believed  that  man  in  his  primitive  staie 
would  be  possessed  of  a  more  acute  sense  of  smelling  than 
when  civilized;  the  facts  stated  on  this  subject  of  the 
Caraibs  being  able  to  trace  men  through  the  woods  by  the 
scent,  like  hounds,  and  of  their  distinguishing  "  the  track 
of  an  Englishman  or  a  negro,  from  that  uf  a  Frenchman 
or  a  Spaniard,  by  the  sense  of  smelling,"  if  true,  would  be 
strong  confirmation  ci  this  doctrine.*  It  is  said  that  the 
Arabs  cannot  bear  the  smell  of  a  city. 

Their  endurance  of  cold  is  great  Their  powers  of  di- 
gestion are  strong,  but  exposed  to  severe  trials.  The  quantity 
of  food  whic^  an  Indian  will  take  when  he  has  it  in  abun- 
dance is  surprising,  and  if  considered  in  connection  with  what 
is  related  by  Captain  Parry  of  the  appetite  of  the  Esquimaux, 
would  lead  us  to  believe  that  this  is  not  peculiar  to  any  na- 
tion of  Indians,  but  that  it  belongs  to  man  in  general  in  his 
wild  state.  We  find  that  it  extends  also  to  the  half-breeds 
>.ho  live  among  them.  The  observations  made  at  a  later 
period  of  the  expedition,  upon  the  quantity  of  buffaloc 
meat  consumed  by  every  man  of  the  party,  confirm  this. 
The  usual  allowance  of  fresh  buffaloe  meat  to  the  guides 
and  boatmen  of  the  fur  trading  companies  is  not  less  than 
eight  pounds  per  day;  it  is  probable,  that  during  the  short,,, 
time  the  party  were  among  the  buffaloe,  the  ration  of  each 
of  the  gentlemen  averaged  about  four  pounds.  This  is  not 
to  be  attributed  to  any  want  of  nutritive  power  in  the  flesh 


•  Archxologia  Americana,  vol.  I.  p.  426. 
Vol.  I.  18 


138 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


of  the  bufTaloe,  but  to  the  great  facility  that  attends  the  di- 
gestion of  this  food,  and  to  the  irregular  habits  which  even 
the  most  civilized  men  readily  acquire  as  soon  as  they  find 
themselves  beyond  the  pale  of  society.  Certain  it  is,  that 
if  well  provided  with  food,  and  not  engaged  in  hunting,  the 
Potawatomi  will  eat  from  ten  to  twenty  times  a  day.  Fre- 
quent exposure  to  privation  of  food  has,  however,  accus- 
tomed him  to  endure  the  want  of  it  with  more  fortitude, 
and  perhaps  with  less  real  inconvenience,  than  the  white 
man.  There  is  also  probably  a  moral  support  which  the 
red  man  receives  from  ilie  recollection,  that  however  fre- 
quent, and  however  long  have  been  the  intervals  during 
which  he  was  dejirived  of  all  subsistence,  they  have  al- 
ways terminated  i;i  time  to  secure  him  from  absolute  fa- 
mine ;  he  therefore  ijlways  retains  the  hope  of  being  soon  re- 
stored to  abundance.  The  white  man,  less  accustomed  to 
these  privations,  considers  himself  as  lost  the  very  first  time 
that  he  misses  his  usual  allowance,  and  is  deprived  of  the  great 
accession  of  pliysicai  strength  which  proceeds  from  moral 
courage.  Notwithstanding  their  great  fortitude,  the  men 
of  this  nation  are  sometimes  liable  to  unaccountable  de- 
pression of  spirits,  which  seldom,  however,  leads  them  to 
commit  suicide ;  we  heard  of  two  instances  only,  one  of 
which  was  in  a  fit  of  intoxication,  and  the  other  to  get  rid 
of  a  scolding  wife. 

This  account  of  the  Potawatomis  might  have  been 
lengthened  out  by  adding  many  circumstances  which  were 
related  to  us  concerning  their  manners  and  opinions ;  but 
having  given  the  most  important,  we  shall  withhold  notic- 
ing the  remainuer,  except  in  a  few  instances,  when  treat- 
ing of  other  Indian  tribes ;  in  wiiich  case  they  may  assist 
in  a  comparison  between  the  different  nations. 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETER  S   RIVER. 


139 


L  attends  the  di- 
bits which  even 
joon  as  they  find 
!ertain  it  is,  that 
din  hunting,  the 
mesa  day.  Fre- 
however,  accus- 

more  fortitude, 
J,  than  the  white 
pport  which  the 
that  however  fre- 
I  intervals  during 
;e,  they  have  al 
from  absolute  fa- 
,e  of  being  soon  re- 
ess  accustomed  to 
thevery  first  time 
jprived  of  the  great 
iceeds  from  moral 
fortitude,  the  men 
unaccountable  de- 
iver,  leads  them  to 
inces  only,  one  of 

le  other  to  get  rid 

Imight  have  heen 
Itances  which  were 
land  opinions;  but 
]all  withhold  notic- 
mces,  when  treat- 
ise they  may  assist 
iations. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Carey  mission-hoiise.  Lake  Michigan.  Chicago. 

THE  only  person  worthy  of  note,  whom  the  party  met 
at  Fort  Wayne,  besides  those  already  alluded  to,  was  Cap- 
tain Riley,  the  same  gentleman  who  has  amused  the 
world  by  an  account  of  his  sufierings  in  Africa.  He  has 
formed  a  settlement  on  St  Mary  river,  fourteen  miles 
above  Fort  Wayne,  which  he  has  called  Willshire,  in  honour 
of  the  British  consul  who  redeemed  him  from  captivity. 
The  spot  which  he  has  selected  is  said  to  be  the  only  one 
that  affords  a  water-power  within  fifty  miles  of  Fort  Wayne ; 
from  which  circumstance  it  will  probably  increase  in  im- 
portance. The  ptoT^y  made  arrangements  to  cross  the  wil- 
derness, of  upwards  of  two  hundred  miles,  which  separates 
this  place  from  Chicago ;  they  fortunately  met  here  the  ex- 
press sent  from  the  latter  place  for  letters,  and  detained 
him  as  a  guide.  His  name  was  Bemis,  and  we  have  great 
pleasure  in  stating,  that  of  all  the  United  States'  soldiers  who, 
at  various  times,  accompanied  the  expedition  in  the  capa- 
city of  escort  or  guide,  none  behaved  himself  so  much  to 
their  satisfaellon  as  this  man.  On  the  29th  of  May,  the 
party  left  Fort  Wayne,  the  cavalcade  consisted  of  seven 
persons,  including  the  soldier,  and  a  black  servant,  called 
Andrew  Allison ;  there  were  in  addition  two  horses  loaded 
with  provisions.  The  first  day  the  party  travelled  but 
twenty  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  bank  of  a  small  stream 
known  by  the  name  of  Blue-grass ;  this  is  the  last  of  t'le  tri-. 
butari^s  to  the  Mississippi  which  are  met  within  Indiana; 
all  the  streams  which  we  crossed  during  the  ensuing  five  or 


i40 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


six  days  empty  their  waters  into  Lake  Michigan.  Th% 
country  to  the  west  of  Fort  Wayne  is  much  more  promis- 
ing than  that  which  lies  east  of  it  Though  wet,  and  in  some 
places  swampy,  it  is  much  less  so  than  that  through  which 
we  had  previously  travelled.  The  soil  is  thin,  but  of 
good  quality ;  prairies  are  occasionally  met  with  j  the  fo- 
rests consist  of  white  oak,  shellbark,  aspen,  &c.  The 
weather,  which  was  cloudy  in  the  morning  and  shoWery 
in  the  afternoon,  cleared  off  towards  sunset,  and  our  first 
night's  exposure  was  attended  with  no  evil  consequences. 
The  meadow  on  which  we  halted,  was  covered  with  a 
fine  tame  grass,  which  afforded  us  a  soft  couch,  while  it 
secured  to  our  horses  plentiful  and  palatable  food.  The 
streams  wc  crossed  this  day  were  inconsiderable ;  the  first 
known  by  the  name  of  Eel  river,  is  one  of  the  head  branches 
of  the  Wabash:  it  was  considerably  swollen  at  that  time; 
we  forded  it  with  some  difficulty,  and  met  on  the  west  bank 
a  party  of  traders,  who  had  been  encamped  there  some- 
time with  a  large  quantity  of  furs,  which  they  dared  not 
trust  across  the  stream  in  its  present  state  of  elevation. 
They  were  nearly  destitute  of  provisions,  and  we  supplied 
them  with  one  day's  rations.  A  ride  of  thirty  miles  took 
us  the  next  day  to  a  fine  river  called  the  Elkheart,  whick 
it  had  been  our  intention  to  have  forded  before  night; 
upon  reaching  its  banks  we  found  it  so  much  swollen  as  to 
preclude  the  possibility  of  crossing  it,  unless  a  raft  could  be 
made ;  but  as  tliis  would  have  detained  us  too  long,  we  prefer- 
ed  attempting  to  make  our  way  down  the  left  bank  of  the 
stream.  We  were  led  to  take  this  course  from  the  cir- 
cumstance, that  the  usual  path  crosses  back  to  the  kft  or 
southern  bank,  about  twenty  miles  below  the  first  cros- 
sing. The  country  travelled  over  this  day,  consisted  of  low 
flat  ridges,  the  summits  of  which  presented  extensive  levels 


SOURCE   OP   ST.    PETER'S   RIVER. 


141 


ichigan.  Th% 
I  more  promis- 
ret,  and  in  some 
through  which 
is  thin,  but  of 
t  with;  the  fo- 
jpen,  &c.  The 
ig  and  8ho\*^ery 
et,  and  our  first 
il  consequences, 
covered  with  a 
couch,  while  it 
able  food.  The 
derable;  the  first 
the  head  branches 

len  at  that  time; 
ton  the  west  bank 

iped  there  some- 
1  they  dared  not 
tate  of  elevation. 
1,  and  we  supplied 
thirty  miles  took 
Elkheart,  whick 
led  before  night; 
luch  swollen  as  to 
less  a  raft  could  be 
oolong,weprefer- 
ie  left  bank  of  the 
rse  from  the  cir- 
ack  to  the  kft  or 
ow  the  first  cros- 
y,  consisted  of  low 
led  extensive  levels 


interspersed  with  many  small  lakes  and  lagoons.  These 
ridges  are  not  more  than  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in  height,  their 
sides  are  so  steep  as  to  make  them  sometimes  difficult  of 
ascent  for  horses.  The  country  is  almost  destitute  of  timber 
until  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Elkheart,  when  we  entered 
the  river  bottom,  in  which  we  found  a  noble  forest  of 
oak,  black  and  white  walnut,  wild  cherry,  beech,  poplar, 
asii,  bass  or  linden,  white  and  sugar  maple,  &c.  the  soil  upon 
which  it  grows  appearing  to  be  of  the  very  best  quality, 
but  somewhat  wet  Among  the  plants  observed  upon  the 
prairie  land,  Mr.  Say  noticed  a  lupin  with  blue  flowers,  in 
full  bloom  and  in  great  abundance;  a  fine  cypripedium, 
and  the  wild  flax,  which  grew  in  great  plenty.  Some  of 
the  small  lakes  or  ponds  are  surrouhded  exclusively  with 
a  thick  growth  of  white  cedars,  none  of  which  are  seen 
elsewhere,  or  intermixed  with  any  of  the  forest  trees  on 
the  more  elevated  ground.  One  of  the  most  curious  cha- 
racters of  the  prairie,  was  the  number  of  conical  depres- 
sions in  the  earth,  resembling  the  sink  holes  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  St  Louis ;  they  are  from  eight  to  ten  or  more 
feet  in  depth,  and  from  twenty  to  thirty  in  diameter.  They 
remind  the  geologist  of  the  numerous  funnel-formed  holes 
which  are  observable  in  gypsum  formations,  and  particularly 
in  the  muriatiferous  gypsum  of  the  vicinity  of  Bex  in  Swit- 
zerland, Moutiers  in  Savoy,  &c.  No  rocks  appear  in  situ 
any  where  along  these  prairies,  but  they  are  covered  with 
granitic  boulders,  bearing  evident  marks  of  attrition.  The 
soil  is  likewise  thickly  studded  with  water-worn  pebbles, 
and  is  therefore  far  inferior  in  quality  to  that  over  which 
we  passed  the  preceding  day.  The  grass  of  these  prairies 
is  generally  short  and  dry. 

One  of  the  greatest  inconveniences  we  encountered  at 
tliis  stage  af  our  journey,  and  which  was  felt  still  more 


jmi 

Hv' 

m3B^\ 

^^Ki 

mX^ 

|H;J 

mKj 

fflfii}! 

1 

H<l 


•i.> 


m  \ 


1,1  > 


'il'l^ 


'ilf* 


142 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


sensibly  when  travelling  on  the  prairies  west  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, was  the  great  range  of  the  thermometer.  We  noticed 
this  day,  that  at  sunrise  it  stood  at  38°,  (of  Fahrenheit's 
scale,)  while  at  noon  it  had  risen  to  72°.  So  great  a  variation 
of  temperature  is  productive  of  very  heavy  dews,  to  which 
we  were  frequently  exposed,  as  we  often  neglected  pitch- 
ing our  tents  at  night.  In  rising  in  the  morning  wc 
found  our  clothes  as  wet  ai  if  they  had  been  drenched  in 
water.  Whether  the  usual  elevation  of  these  prairies  pre- 
vents the  dew  from  being  attended  with  tlie  sickliness 
which  generally  prevails  in  the  vicinity  of  rivers,  or 
whether  the  life,  to  which  men  are  exposed  in  crossing 
the  prairies,  protects  them  against  the  noxious  influence 
of  the  dew,  we  know  not;  but  it  is  remarkable  that  none 
of  the  party  suJSered  from  it.  In  no  instance  were  any  of  us 
affected  with  either  cold  or  rheumatismal  pains ;  and  if  in 
one  or  two  cases  symptoms  of  fever  prevailed,  it  was  at  a 
time  when  we  had  left  the  prairies. 

A  few  Potawatomi  Indians  were  met  this  day  on  their 
way  to  Fort  Wayne.  The  trail  which  we  followed  was 
struck  by  that  which  leads  to  one  of  their  villages  about 
fifteen  miles  distant  The  weather  was  hazy  throughout 
the  day ;  in  the  evening  light  clouds  were  observed.  A  gen- 
tle breeze  from  the  north-west  prevailed  during  the  day.  Our 
horses  had  been  fastened,  to  prevent  their  rambling  in 
the  woods ;  meeting  with  but  a  scanty  supply  of  grass  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  river  which  was  overgrown  with 
bushes,  and  which  offered  them  no  other  food  but  the  bark 
of  trees,  many  of  them  broke  the  bark  ligaments  with 
which  they  were  secured,  and  strayed  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  camp ;  these  ligaments  are  called  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  travellers  to  the  west  "  hobbles."  The  pursuit 
after  the  horses  in  the  morning  occasioned  a  great  loss  of  time* 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


14" 


st  of  the  Missis- 
,er.  We  noticed 
of  Fahrenheit's 
great  a  variation 
dews,  to  which 
leglected  pitch- 
he  morning  we 
sen  drenched  in 
lese  prairies  pre- 
h  tlie  sickliness 
ty  of  rivers,  or 
►osed  in  crossing 
loxious  influence 
rkable  that  none 
ce  were  any  of  us 
,  pains-,  and  if  in 
piled,  it  was  at  a 

his  day  on  their 
we  followed  was 
iir  villages  about 
hazy  ;throughout 
observed.  Agen- 
iringthe  day.  Our 
heir  rambling  in 
ipply  of  grass  in 
is  overgrown  with 
■food  but  the  bark 
k  ligaments  with 
a  considerable  dis- 
e  called  in  the  lan- 
des."  The  pursuit 
a  great  loss  of  time,, 


which  was  however  increased  on  discovering  that  the  black 
boy  (Andrew)  had  not  returned  with  them  •,  he  having  unfor- 
tunately lost  his  way  in  the  woods.  Our  search  after  him  hav- 
ing proved  vain,  we  wrote  directions  for  him  to  pursue  our 
track,  affixed  them  to  a  tree,  and  were  on  the  point  of 
leaving  the  camp,  when  fortunately  he  made  his  appear- 
ance. It  is  probable,  as  we  afterwards  found  out,  that  he 
would  have  perished  in  the  woods  had  he  not  come  in 
just  at  that  moment ;  for  it  would  have  been  impossible 
fc*  him  to  have  traced  the  party  in  the  thick  forest 
through  which  our  course  led  us:  neither  would  it  have 
^'•e^.n  prudent  for  us  to  have  remained  any  longer  there, 
as  our  horses  gave  evident  signs  of  their  having  been 
on  short  allowance  since  noon  of  the  preceding  day. 
Andrew's  return  to  the  camp  enabled*us  then  to  attend  to 
what  appeared  to  be  the  most  important  object,  which  was 
to  seek  for  a  place  ;vbcre  the  horses  might  pasture  to  ad- 
vantage. We  therefore  resolved  upon  following  as  short  a 
course  as  we  could  to  the  prairie  land,  endeavouring  at  the 
same  time  to  keep  near  enough  to  the  river  to  reach  the 
second  crossing  before  night.  In  this  attempt  we  met  with 
great  difficulties,  from  the  closeness  of  the  forest  and  the 
swampy  nature  of  the  ground.  The  horses  laboured  much 
to  get  through,  and  when  we  stopped  at  noon  to  pasture 
them  on  a  small  patch  of  grass,  we  found  that  our  progress 
during  four  hours  had  been  but  about  six  miles.  We  had 
met  with  a  bold  and  hitherto  undescribed  stream,  about 
twenty  yards  wide,  which  empties  into  the  Elkheart  about 
three  miles  below  the  usual  crossing,  and  which  we  have 
designated  in  our  map  as  the  south-west  branch  of  that 
river.  From  the  rapidity  and  depth  of  this  branch  we  anti- 
cipated the  same  difficulties  which  we  had  encountered  the 
evening  before,  but  on  continuing  along  the  bank,  for  some 


144 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


4! 


mi  "*    , 
111   L'  ! 


time,  we  observed  a  large  tree  that  had  fallen  across, 
and  that  afforded  a  safe  and  commodious  bridge  for  our- 
selves and  baggage,  while  our  horses  swam  over.  The 
afternoon  of  that  day  was  consumed  in  pacsing  through 
swamps,  in  which  our  horses  were  frequently  in  danger  of 
being  lost  At  one  place  three  of  the  horses  with 
their  riders,  were  near  being  severely  hurt,  by  the  fruit- 
less efforts  of  the  former  to  get  over  a  bad  hole.  Wc 
were  happy  to  get  through  without  any  more  serious  injury 
than  that  of  being  smeared  with  dirt  from  head  to  foot, 
and  with  the  loss  merely  of  a  few  spurs  that  stuck  to  the 
bottom  of  the  pooL  After  one  of  the  most  trying  days  that 
any  of  us  ever  recollected  having  undergone,  we  encamp- 
ed, at  sunset,  in  a  place  so  low  that  we  could  scarcely  get 
a  spot  dry  enough  to  spread  our  blankets ;  and  before  we 
had  partaken  of  our  evening  meal,  the  mosquitoes  arose 
in  such  numbers  around  us,  that  we  were  deprived  of  all 
rest  for  the  night  We  had  likewise  the  mortiiication  of 
finding  that  our  horses  were  almost  as  badly  off  for  grass 
this  evening  as  the  last ;  the  distance  travelled  this  day 
did  not  exceed  twenty  miles.  Our  course  had  been  entirely 
directed  by  the  compass,  and  was  nearly  west.  An  Indian 
trail  which  we  observed  in  a  direction  north  40°  west,  was 
followed  for  a  while,  with  the  hope  that  it  would  take  us 
to  an  Indian  village,  but  it  only  lead  us  back  to  the  Elk- 
heart,  which  we  found  as  deep  and  as  rapid  as  at  our  last 
encampment.  We  observed  here  the  remains  of  a  frail 
canoe  which,  for  a  moment,  we  thought  might  assist  us  in 
crossing  the  river ;  but  the  weakness  of  this  little  vessel, 
soon  convinced  us  of  the  impossibility  of  trusting  to  it ;  it 
was  made  of  the  bark  of  the  linden  or  elm,  procured  by 
cutting  through  to  the  wood  transversely,  first  at  the  foot  of 
the  tree,  and  then  again  about  twelve  feet  above  this.    A 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETER'S  RIVER. 


145 


longitudinal  cut,  uniting  these  two,  allowed  the  bark  to  be 
shelled  off  in  a  single  piece.  It  had  then  been  reversed,  so 
that  the  inner  surface,  while  on  the  tree,  formed  the  outside 
of  the  boat;  the  whole  was  finished  by  causing  the  middle 
part  to  bulge  out,  by  means  of  sticks  placed  athwai't,  while 
each  end  was  pressed  in,  and  rendered  water-tight  This  path 
having  misled  us,  we  retraced  our  steps  until  we  ascended 
a  bank,  about  twenty-five  feet  high,  which  runs  parallel 
with  the  river,  and  we  continued  along  the  edge  of  this 
through  thick  woods  of  elm,  prickly  ash,  red  haw,  spice 
wood,  papaw  in  flower,  &c.  Our  situation  during  the  night 
was  a  very  uncomfortable  one,  and  little  calculated  to 
please  those  of  the  party,  who  were,  for  the  first  time,  en- 
gaged on  an  exploring  expedition.  To  be  placed  in  the  midst 
of  a  dense  forest,  surrounded  by  bogs,  from  which  our  horses 
had  been  extricated  with  great  difficulty,  uncertain  as  to  the 
possibility  of  reaching  by  this  route  the  spot  at  which 
we  wished  to  arrive,  tormented  by  insects,  our  horses  faint 
for  want  of  food,  and  all  this  at  the  commencement  of  our 
journey  through  the  woods,  was  rather  a  discouraging  si- 
tuation. Anxious  to  escape  from  these  difficulties,  we  re- 
sumed our  journey  on  Sunday,  the  1st  of  June,  at  as  early 
an  hour  as  we  could,  and  were  engaged  for  about  five 
hours,  in  difficulties  still  greater  than  those  of  the  preced- 
ing day.  The  thickness  of  the  forest  having  obliged  us  to 
dismount  and  lead  our  horses,  we  waded  knee  deep  in  the 
mire,  and  met  with  a  new  obstacle  in  the  necessity  of  making 
frequent  halts,  to  replace  on  the  horses  the  baggage  which 
was  thrown  off,  during  the  many  leaps  which  they  had 
to  take  over  the  fallen  trees.  After  a  while  we  reached  a 
high  and  dry  prairie,  partly  covered  with  young  aspen 
bushes,  rising  to  the  height  of  from  eight  to  ten  feet,  and 
so  thick,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  keep  the  whole  of 
Vol.  I.  19 


146 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


the  party  in  sight;  this  reminded  Major  Long  of  some  of 
the  difficulties  he  had  experienced  in  travelling  through 
the  cane  brakes  of  Arkansaw.  On  halting  at  noon,  we  disco- 
vered the  Elkheart  at  no  great  distance,  and  from  the  account 
of  our  guides,  concluded  that  we  had  got  through  our  diffi- 
culties. To  the  younger  travellers  it  was  a  source  of  much 
gratification,  to  find  that  the  fatigues  of  that  morning  had  ex- 
ceeded all  that  their  more  experienced  companions  had  ever 
met  with,  as  it  was  to  them  a  sure  warrant  that  they  had  not 
overrated  their  forces  in  undertaking  the  journey.  At  our 
noontime's  encampment,  we  found  the  angelica  plant,  aiid  the 
wild  pea-vine.  We  soon  struck  a  trail,  and  about  three 
miles  below,  came  to  the  lower  crossing  of  the  river ;  it 
was  still  so  high  that  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  pass, 
but  we  experienced  great  pleasure  in  ascertaining  that  we  had 
again  fallen  into  the  usual  track  from  Wayne  to  Chicago ; 
we  observed  here,  for  the  first  time,  the  equisetum  grow- 
ing in  abundance.  In  the  afternoon  we  travelled  witii 
ease  and  comfort  over  a  prairie  country  interspersed  with 
occasional  spots  of  woodland.  One  of  these  prairies  which 
was  about  five  miles  wide  and  one  and  a  half  long^  was  as 
level  as  possible,  and  as  far  as  the  eye  could  observe,  it  re- 
sembled a  smooth  unruffled  sheet  of  water.  The  scene  was 
enlivened,  and  the  solitude  interrupted  by  the  quick  flight 
of  the  deer  which  we  disturbed  while  feeding,  and  which 
darted  acrossour  path  with  a  rapidity  that  baffles  description. 
About  sunset  we  arrived  at  a  romantic  stream  called  Devil's 
river,  and  here  we  encamped  upon  as  beautiful  a  spot  as 
the  most  fastidious  could  have  wished  for;  we  pitched  our 
tent  for  the  first  time,  and  while  partaking  of  a  comfortable 
meal,  in  the  open  air,  spent  a  more  pleasant  evening 
than  perhaps  we  could  ever  have  expected  to  enjoy 
in  such  a  solitude.   There  was  a  still  sublimity  in  the  scene. 


souBCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


14: 


ng  of  some  of 
elling  through 
ioon,wedisco- 
om  the  account 
rough  our  diffi- 
source  of  much 
Homing  had  ex- 

.anions  had  ever 
hat  they  had  not 

mrney.    At  our 

icaplant,ahdthc 

and  ahout  three 

of  the  river;  it 

npossible  to  pass, 

uningthatwehad 

lyne  to  Chicago; 

equisetum  grow- 

re  travelled  with 

interspersed  with 

3se  prairies  which 

half  long,  was  as 

lid  observe,  it  re- 

The  scene  was 

iy  the  quick  flight 

bding,  and  which 

baffiesdescription. 

heam  called  Dev'.Vs 

eautiful  a  spot  as 
\r\  we  pitched  our 
ig  of  a  comfortable 

pleasant  evening 
xpected  to  enjoy 
imity  in  the  scene, 


which  we  have  in  vain  looked  for  on  many  an  occasion. 
The  dreariness  of  our  last  encampment  contrasted  so 
strongly  with  the  calmness  of  the  present,  that  it  powerfully 
reminded  us  of  that  constant  mutability  in  the  situation  of 
man,  which  perhaps  finds  its  parallel  only  in  the  unceasing 
changes  which  his  ideas  and  his  feelings  undergo. 

The  next  day  we  proceeded  along  the  southern  bank  of  the 
Elkheartand  observed  its  junction  with  the  St  Joseph.  This 
last  mentioned  stream  is  known  by  the  appellation  of  St. 
Joseph  of  Lake  Michigariy  in  contradistinction  to  the  river 
of  the  same  name  which  empties  into  Lake  Erie,  and  which 
we  saw  at  Fort  Wayne.  The  St  Joseph  of  Michigan  is  a 
fine  stream,  deeply  incased ;  it  is  about  one  hundred  yards 
wide,  and  being  at  that  time  very  full,  was  both  deep  and 
rapid ;  it  is  the  finest  stream  we  have  met  with  since  we 
left  the  Muskingum,  and  perhaps  even  the  Ohio.  A  beau- 
tiful prairie  with  a  fine  rich  soil,  offered  to  the  party  an 
easy  mode  of  travelling,  and  the  occasional  glimpses  which 
they  caught  of  the  St  Joseph  and  its  adjoining  forests, 
afforded  them  a  series  of  varied  but  ever  beautiful  prospects, 
which  were  rendered  more  picturesque  by  the  ruins  of 
Strawberry,  Rum,  and  St  Joseph's  villages,  formerly  the 
residence  of  Indians  or  of  the  first  French  settlers.  It  was 
curious  to  trace  the  dlfierence  in  the  remains  of  the  habi- 
tations of  the  red  and  white  man  in  the  midst  of  this  dis- 
tant solitude.  While  the  untenanted  cabin  of  the  Indian 
presented  in  its  neighbourhood  but  the  remains  of  an  old 
cornfield  overgrown  with  weeds,  the  rude  hut  of  the 
Frenchman  was  surrounded  with  vines,  and  with  the 
remains  of  his  former  gardening  exertions.  The  asparagus, 
the  pea-vine,  and  the  woodbine,  still  grow  about  it,  as 
though  in  defiance  of  the  revolutions  which  have  dispersed 
those  who  planted  them  here.  The  very  names  of  the  vil- 


148 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


lages  mark  the  difference  between  their  former  tenants  j 
those  of  the  Ind"  s  were  designated  by  the  name  of  the 
fruit  which  gre-*'  abundantly  on  the  spot,  or  of  the  ob- 
ject which  they  coveted  most ;  while  the  French  missionary 
has  placed  his  village  under  the  patronage  of  the  tutelar 
saint  ill  whom  he  reposed  his  utmost  confidence.  Near 
to  these  we  found  two  traders  settled  in  the  vicinity  of 
Indian  lands,  or  as  is  believed  by  many,  upon  the  reser- 
vation itself;  where  they  probably  carry  on  a  lucrative 
trade,  if,  as  we  were  informed  by  one  of  them,  a  skin 
valued  at  one  dollar  was  obtained  for  five  gunflints,  which 
had  cost  him  a  cent  a  piece.  This  is,  however,  the  least 
evil ;  our  objections  to  this  trade  would  be  much  lighter,  if 
the  Indians  were  liable  only  to  be  defrauded  of  their  dues ;  but 
great  as  is  this  injustice,  it  bears  no  comparison  to  the  evils 
growing  out  of  the  constant  temptation  of  liquor  to  whicii 
they  are  exposed,  and  which  as  is  too  well  known  it  is  impos- 
sible for  them  to  resist  It  is  really  shocking  to  observe  the 
manner  in  which,  notwithstanding  the  laws  of  the  land,  the 
dictates  of  sound  reason,  and  morality,  and  the  active  efforts 
of  the  United  States*  agents,  the  traders  persist  in  their 
practice  of  offering  liquor  to  the  Indians,  the  effect  of 
which  is  to  demoralize  and  to  destroy  them. 

There  is  in  this  neighbourhood  an  establishment  which, 
by  the  philanthopic  views  that  have  led  to  its  establish- 
ment and  by  the  boundless  charity  with  which  it  is  admi- 
nistered, compensates  in  a  manner  for  the  insult  offered  to 
the  laws  of  God  and  man  by  the  traders.  The  reports 
which  we  had  received  of  the  flattering  success  which  had 
attended  the  efforts  of  the  Baptist  missionaries  on  the  St. 
Joseph,  induced  us  to  deviate  a  little  from  our  route  to 
visit  their  interesting  establishment.  The  Carey  mission- 
house,  so  designated  in  honour  of  the  late  Mr,  Carey,  the 


SOURCE   eP   SI.    PETER  S   RIVER. 


149 


indefatigable  apostle  of  India,  is  situated  within  about  a 
mile  of  the  river,  and  twenty-five  miles,  (by  land,)  above  its 
mouth.  The  ground  upon  which  it  is  erected  is  the  site 
of  an  ancient  and  extensive  Potawatomi  village,  now  no 
longer  in  existence.  The  establishment  was  created  by 
the  Baptist  Missionary  Society  in  Washington,  and  is 
under  the  superintendance  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  M'Coy,  a  man 
whom  from  all  the  reports  we  heard  of  him  we  should 
consider  as  very  eminently  qualified  for  the  important  trust 
committed  to  him.  We  regretted  that  at  the  time  we  pas- 
sed at  the  Carey  mission-house,  this  gentleman  was  absent 
on  business  connected  with  the  establishment  of  another 
missionary  settlement  on  the  grand  river  of  Michigan ; 
but  we  saw  his  wife,  who  received  us  in  a  very  hospitable 
manner,  and  gave  us  every  opportunity  of  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  the  circumstances  of  the  school.  The  spot 
upon  which  the  houses  are  built  and  the  agricultural  pur- 
suits carried  on,  was  covered  with  a  very  dense  forest  seven 
months  before  the  time  when  we  visited  it,  but  by  the  great 
activity  of  the  superintendant,  he  has  succeeded  in  the  course 
of  this  short  time  in  building  six  good  log  houses,  four  of 
which  are  connected  and  afford  a  comfortable  residence  to 
the  inmates  of  the  establishment,  a  fifth  is  used  as  a  school- 
room, and  the  sixth  forms  a  commodious  blacksmith's  shop. 
In  addition  to  this,  they  have  cleared  about  fifty  acres  of 
land,  which  are  nearly  all  enclosed  by  a  substantial  fence ; 
forty  acres  have  already  been  ploughed  and  planted  with 
mai^e,  and  every  step  has  been  taken  to  place  the  establish- 
ment upon  an  independant  footing.  The  school  consists 
of  from  forty  to  sixty  children,  of  which  fifteen  are  females. 
They  are  either  children  of  Indians,  or  half-breed  de- 
scendants of  French  and  Indian  parents ;  there  being  about 
an  equal  number  of  each.     It  is  contemplated  that  the 


150 


ZXPKDITION   TO   THE 


'■Wmwrm-  rSm 


'tfc 


\ 


m 


school  will  soon  be  increased  to  one  hundred.  Tiie  plan 
adopted  appears  to  be  a  very  judicious  one ;  to  instruct  them 
in  the  arts  of  civilized  life,  to  teach  them  the  benefits  which 
they  may  derive  from  them,  without  attempting  to  con* 
fuse  their  heads  by  ideas  of  religion,  the  value  of  which  it 
is  in  their  present  state,  impossible  for  them  to  appreciate. 
It  is  only  after  they  shall  have  been  familiarized  with  the 
blessings  attendant  upon  civilization,  that  they  may  be  in- 
duced to  turn,  with  effect,  their  attention  to  the  sublime 
principles  of  that  dispensation  to  which  we  are  indebted 
for  all  those  comforts.  To  attempt  to  christianize  them  before 
they  have  been  civilized,  would  be  to  expectof  them  a  matu- 
rity of  reasoning  far  beyond  that  of  which  experience  teaches 
lis  that  they  are  possessed.  In  his  present  state  of  wildness 
and  ignorance,  it  is  impossible  for  the  Indian  to  appreciate 
the  vast  difference  which  exists  between  his  heathen  su- 
perstitions and  the  pure  morality  of  the  gospel.  Could  we 
entertain  a  doubt  of  what  must  strike  every  reflecting  man 
as  true,  we  need  but  open  the  books  of  the  Catholic  mis- 
sionaries whose  zeal  first  induced  them  to  visit  the  track- 
less wastes  of  America,  to  ascend  her  as  yet  unknown 
rivers,  and  to  risk  every  hazard  and  surmount  every  ob- 
stacle, conveying  the  glad  tidings  of  the  gospel  and  bap- 
tising in  the  name  of  the  Lord.  What  say  they  of  their 
success,  they  were  heard  with  patient  attention,  for  such 
is  the  practice  of  the  Indian,  but  what  root  did  their  words 
strike  in  the  minds  of  their  pupils?  Father  Hennepin,  one 
of  the  most  celebrated  of  these  missionaries,  has  accounted 
for  their  ill  success  in  the  true  way.  "  There  are,"  says  he, 
*^  several  obstacles  to  the  conversion  of  the  Indians,  but  in 
most  cases  the  chief  difficulty  arises  from  the  indifference 
which  they  manifest  for  every  thing.  If  we  instruct  them 
in  the  creation  of  the  world,  and  in  the  mysteries  of  the 


SOURCE    OP   ST.    PETER  S    RIVER. 


151 


I.    The  plan 
instruct  them 
jenefits  which 
pting  to  con- 
ic of  which  it 
to  appreciate, 
•ized  with  the 
ey  may  be  in- 
D  the  sublime 
I  are  indebted 
ze  them  before 
jfthemamatu- 
erience  teaches 
ite  of  wildness 
n  to  appreciate 
is  heathen  su- 
pel.   Could  we 
reflecting  man 
Catholic  mis- 
isit  the  track- 
yet  unknown 
unt  every  ob- 
ispel  and  bap- 
they  of  their 
tion,  for  such 
lid  their  words 
Hennepin,  one 
has  accounted 
are,"  says  he, 
Indians,  but  in 
le  indiflference 
instruct  them 
steries  of  tlie 


christian  religion,  they  say  that  we  are  right,  and  tliey  ge- 
nerally applaud  what  we  tell  them.  They  would  hold  it 
to  be  a  great  breach  of  manners  to  intimate  the  least  doubt 
as  to  the  truth  of  all  that  we  teach  them,  but  having  heard 
and  praised  all  that  we  had  to  say,  they  pretend  that  wu 
01  ^ht  to  show  the  same  deference  for  the  tales  which  they 
relate  to  us,  and  when  we  tell  them  that  all  they  have  ad- 
vanced s  false,  their  reply  is,  that  as  they  have  acquiesced 
in  all  that  we  have  stated,  it  is  foolish  on  our  part  to  in- 
terrupt them  and  deny  the  truth  of  what  they  assert."  "  All 
tliat  thou  hast  taught  us,  say  they,  respecting  the  belief  of 
thy  country  is  doubtless  true  as  respects  thy  people,  but 
it  is  otherwise  with  us  who  belong  to  a  different  nation, 
and  who  dwell  upon  lands  .vhich  are  on  this  side  of  the 
great  lake."  It  is  this  indifference  in  all  matters  of 
faith,  this  belief  that  their  doctrines  were  as  good  as  those 
uf  the  missionaries,  that  may  be  considered  as  the  true 
source  of  the  failure  of  all  attempts  to  christianize  them. 
But  after  their  ideas  will  have  been  expanded  by  a  proper 
acquaintance  with  the  arts  of  civilized  life,  then  they  can- 
not fail  fully  to  appreciate  the  superiority  of  our  faith  over 
theirs. 

The  plan  adopted  *n  the  school,  purposes  to  unite  a 
practical  with  an  intellectual  education ;  the  boys  are  in- 
structed in  the  English  language,  in  reading,  writing  and 
arithmetic,  they  are  made  to  attend  to  the  usual  occupa- 
tions of  a  farm,  and  to  perform  every  operation  connected 
with  it,  such  as  ploughing,  planting,  harrowing,  &c. ;  in 
these  pursuits  they  appear  to  uVe  ejreat  delight;  the  sys- 
tem being  well  regulated,  they  find  time  for  every  thing, 
not  only  for  study  and  labour,  but  also  for  innocent  recrea- 
tion, in  which  they  are  encouraged  to  indulge ;  and  the 
hours  allotted  to  recreation  may  perhaps  be  viewed  as  pro- 


152 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


in , 


ductive  of  results  fully  as  important  as  those  accruing  from 
more  serious  pursuits.     In  visiting  Indian  villages,  we  ob- 
served, that  the  children  seldom  played  together  in  the 
manner  in  which  those  of  white  men  unite  for  recreation. 
The  pursuits  o^tbe  Indian  boy  are  of  a  solitary  nature,  he 
imitates  the  chace,  practises  shooting  at  a  mark  in  order  to 
acquire  a  sure  aim,  prepares  his  arrows,  &c.  but  seldom 
appears  to  enjoy  that  community  of  pleasures,  from  which 
a  taste  for  society  would  necessarily  spring.     By  inducing 
the  boys  of  the  Mission-house  to  play  together,  they  will 
soon  discover  how  many  of  the  comforts  and  pleasures  jt 
life  arise  from  the  communion  of  souls ;  and  they  will  be 
led  to  form  attachments  which  will  attend  them  through 
life,  and  which  may  induce  then- ,  after  they  h.ive  left  the 
peaceful  abode  of  the  missionary ,  to  continue  in  the  course 
which  has  already  been  to  the  Vi  the  fruitful  source  of  so 
much  delight.   The  females  receive  in  the  school  the  same 
instruction  which  is  given  to  the  boys,  and  are  in  addition 
to  this,  taught  spinning,  weaving,  and  sewing,  both  plain 
and  ornamental ;  they  were  just  beginning  to  embroider, 
an  occupation  which  may,  by  some,  be  considered  as  unsuit- 
able to  the  situation  which  they  are  destined  to  hold  in 
life,  but  which  appears  to  us  very  judiciously  used  as  a  re- 
ward and  stimulus ;  it  encourages  their  taste  and  natural 
talent  for  imitation,  which  is  very  great ;  and  by  teaching 
them  that  occupation  may  be  connected  with  amusement, 
it  may  prevent  their  relapsing  into  that  idleness,  which  has 
been  justly  termed  the  source  of  all  evils.     They  are  like- 
wise made  to  attend  to  the  pursuits  of  the  dairy,  such  as 
the  milking  of  cows,  churning  of  milk,  &c.  The  establish- 
ment is  intended  to  be  opened  for  children  from  seven  to 
fourteen  years  old,  but  they  very  properly  receive  them 
at  a  much  earlier  age,  and  even  where  a  great  desire  of 


SOUBCB   OF   ST.   F£T£R's  BIVER. 


153 


learning  was  manifested,  older  persons  have  been  ad- 
mitted. AH  appear  to  be  very  happy,  and  to  make  as 
ra|)id  a  progress  as  white  children  of  the  same  age  would 
make ;  their  principal  excellence  rests  in  works  of  imitation ; 
they  write  astonishingly  well,  and  many  display  great  natural 
talent  for  drawing.  The  institution  receives  the  counte- 
nance of  the  most  respectable  among  the  Indians ;  there 
are  in  the  school  tv.  o  of  the  grandchildren  of  T6-p&-n£'b&» 
the  great  hereditary  chief  of  the  Potawatomis,  who  has  his 
residence  upon  this  river.  The  Indians  visit  the  establish- 
ment occasionally^  appear  pleased  with  it,  and  show  their 
favour  to  it  by  presents  of  sugar,  venison,  &c.  which  they 
often  make  to  the  family  of  the  missionary.  Some  of 
the  parents  of  the  half-breed  scholars  pay  for  their  chil- 
dren's board,  and  contribute  in  this  manner  to  the  support 
of  the  establishment;  which,  being  sanctioned  by  the  War 
Department,  receives  annually  one  thousand  dollars  from 
the  United  States,  for  the  support  of  a  teacher  and  black- 
'ixnith,  according  to  the  conditions  of  the  treaty  concluded 
at  Chicago  in  1821,  by  Governor  Cass  and  Mr.  Sibley,  com- 
missioners on  the  part  of  the  United  States.  By  this  treaty 
about  four  or  five  millions  of  acres  of  land  were  relinquished 
by  the  Potawatomis.  It  was  one  of  the  conditions  of  the 
purchase,  that  a  small  tract  of  the  Indian  reservation  should 
be  conveyed  in  fee  simple  to  the  Baptist  missionaries,  for  the 
purpose  of  forming  a  school  and  agricultural  establishment 
It  is  said  that  the  Indians  themselves  selected  this  spot  as  be- 
ing the  site  of  their  old  v  lage;  this  must  have  been  very 
populous,  as  the  remains  of  corn-hills,  which  are  very  dis- 
tinctly visible  at  this  time,  are  said  to  extend  over  a  thou- 
sand acres.  The  village  was  finally  abandoned  about  fifty 
years  ago,  but  there  are  a  few  of  the  oldest  of  the  nation 
who  still  recollect, the  site  .of  their  respective  huts ;  they 
Vol.  I.  90 


154 


eXPEDITlON   TO   THU^K^'J*'' 


\>i^% 


V 


1';; 


III 


are  said  frequently  to  visit  the  establishment,  and  to  trace 
with  deep  feeling  a  spot  which  is  endeared  to  them  by  "  the 
memory  of  past  joys,  pleasing  and  mournful  to  the  soul." 

The  Carey  Mission-house  has  been  yery  liberally  sup- 
ported by  the  charitable  contributions  aised  throughout  the 
western  states.  The  family  have  a  flock  of  one  hundred  sheep, 
collected  in  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  and  Ohio,  and  are  daily 
expecting  two  hundred  head  of  cattle  from  the  same  states. 
These  contributions,  together  with  the  produce  of  their 
farm,  will,  it  is  thought,  prevent  them  from  being  exposed 
to  suffer  as  much  from  scarcity  of  provisions  as  they  have 
already  done.  When  we  visited  them,  they  were  on  short 
allowance,  owing  to  the  loss  of  a  load  of  wheat  which  had 
been  sent  from  Fort  Wayne  in  a  wagon  a  short  time  before 
we  left  that  place,  and  which  had  been  embarked  in  pi- 
rogues at  the  upper  crossing  of  the  Elkheart ;  by  the  acci- 
dental upsetting  of  the  pirogues  the  whole  of  the  cargo 
was  lost. 

We  were  told  that  the  family  had  been  deprived  of 
the  use  of  milk,  during  the  whole  winter,  from  the 
circumstance  of  their  <^ws  feeding  upon  a  kind  of  wild 
onion  which  grows  in  the  prairies.  It  may  be  well  to  state 
that,  notwithstanding  the  great  objection  which  the  Indians 
generally  have  to  the  use  of  milk,  the  children  in  the 
school  have  become  quite  fond  of  it  In  order  to  give  a 
greater  extension  to  their  establishment,  they  contemplate 
engaging  Shane  as  an  interpreter  and  assistant ;  from  what 
we  saw  of  this  man  while  at  Fort  Wayne,  we  were  not  led 
to  form  so  high  an  opinion  of  him  as  we  had  entertained 
from  reports  received  on  St.  Mary's  river. 

No  rock  appears  in  place  near  the  establishment ;  and  we 
met  with  none  on  our  way  from  Devil's  river,  except  in 
one  place  where  we  observed,  in  a  ravine,  a  calcareous  for- 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETBB's   RIV£R. 


155 


mation  evidently  of  the  latest  dale,  and  which  pnobably 
still  continues  to  increase ;  it  was  filled  with  vegetables, 
some  of  which  were  unaltered,  while  others  appeared  to 
have  undergone  a  partial  decompottition. 

Having  engaged  an  Indian  to  lead  us  back  from  Mr. 
McCoy's  to  the  Chicago  trace,  we  resumed  our  journey  on 
the  3d  of  June.  Our  guide's  hoary  head  would  have  satisfied 
even  Humboldt  himself,  that  his  assertion  *^  that  the  hair  of 
Indians  never  becomes  gray,"  was  too  general.*  We  have 
met  with  many  instances,  and  the  circumstance  is  so  na- 
tural that  we  should  not  have  mentioned  it,  but  for  the  im- 
portance attached  to  the  slightest  observation  of  a  traveller 
so  accurate  as  Humboldt  generally  is.  After  travelling 
about  ten  miles  through  a  prairie  ^parted  from  our  guide, 
who  considered  himself  amply  rewarded  with  about  half  a 
pound  of  gunpowder.  We  then  entered  upon  what  is 
termed  the  fourteen  mile  prairie,  which  for  the  first  seven 
miles  presented  an  extensive  plain  uninterrupted  by  the 
least  elevation,  and  undiversified  by  the  prospect  of  a 
single  tree.  We  had  occasion  to  observe,  on  a  for- 
mer occasion,  that  the  route  which  we  travelled  carried 
us  along  the  height  of  land  that  separates  the  waters 
tributary  to  the  Mississippi  from  those  which  empty  intc 
the  lakes;  and  we  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  this  con- 
firmed, in  this  place,  by  the  fact  that  a  communication  be- 
tween those  waters  has  been  effected,  during  wet  seasons, 
through  the  fourteen  mile  prairie.  It  appears  that  a  very 
deep  swamp,  which  we  avoided  by  our  visit  to  the  mission 
station,  establishes  a  connection  between  two  streams  one 
of  which  empties  its  waters  into  the  Kankakee,  while  those 
of  the  other  run  to  the  St  Joseph.  This  has  afforded,  and 
still  continues  to  afford  every  year  an  easy  communication 

*  Polit.  EsB.  on  the  Ringd.  of  New  Spain,  (Lond.  1811,)  vol.  i.  p.  150. 


1    (\ 


136 


tXFEDITION    TO   THE 


for  canoes  and  small  boats.  An  intercourse  has  likewise 
existed,  in  wet  seasons,  across  the  prairie  east  of  the  trader^s 
establishment  which  we  passed  on  the  previous  day.  At 
noon  we  rested  our  horses  in  the  vicinity  of  the  remains 
of  an  Indian  village,  named  the  Grand  Quoit,  and  we 
observed  a  few  Indian  lodges  scattered  along  the  edge  of 
the  forest  which  encloses  this  prairie.  On  discovering 
our  party  on  the  prairie,  the  tenants  of  the  lodges  imme- 
diately rode  out  of  the  woods,  advanced  towards  us, 
and  opened  a  conversation  with  our  guides.  Their  inter- 
course with  white  men,  and  the  consequent  departure  from 
their  original  customs,  were  observable  in  the  circumstance 
of  their  commencing  the  conversation,  and  in  their  minute 
inquries  respecting  ou^y^bject  and  intentions  in  visiting 
the  country.  They  are  said  to  experience  a  great  scarcity 
of  food,  which  we  can  readily  believe  from  the  total  ab- 
sence of  any  kind  of  game  which  we  have  observed  upon 
the  route.  An  Indian  who  rode  up  near  us,  while  we  were 
partaking  of  our  dinner,  stopped  and  appeared  to  long  after 
food ;  but  called  fur  none.  We  offered  him  some,  which 
he  very  thankfully  accepted,  and  seemed  to  eat  with 
great  voraciousness. 

Our  party  was  this  day  overtaken  by  an  express  from 
Wayne,  who  brought  letters  to  Major  Long,  one  of  which 
was  from  Dr.  James,  stating  that  he  had  been  waiting  in 
Pittsburg  for  the  party.  From  the  contents  of  his  letter, 
we  concluded  that  the  hopes,  which  had  been  hitherto 
entertained,  of  his  being  able  to  effect  a  juncvion  with  us, 
were  vain.  These  were  the  last  letters,  received  from  our 
friends,  until  we  found  some  on  our  return  at  the  Sault  de 
St  Marie. 

Ac  about  forty-three  miles  from  the  Carey  station  the 
trail  which  we  followed  struck  the  shores  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan; this  was  a  source  of  great  gratification  to  us;  as  the 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETEH'S   RIVEF. 


157 


last  twelve  miles  of  our  road  had  been  very  dangerous  on 
account  of  the  numerous  deep  holes  formed  in  it ;  to  these 
may  be  added  the  many  superficial  roots  that  prDJected 
from  the  beech  trees,  in  every  direction,  and  that  exposed 
the  horses  to  frequent  stumbling.  The  forest  was  almost  ex- 
clusively composed  of  the  finest  growth  of  beech ;  on  some  of 
the  higher  grounds  we  found,  in  greit  plenty,  the  partridge  or 
fox-berry,  (Gaultheria  procumbens,)  with  its  aromatic  red 
fruit,  in  a  state  of  perfect  maturity ;  it  was  accompanied  by 
the  whortleberry  in  full  blossom.  We  saw  this  day  the  first 
white  pine,  and  in  some  places  this  tree  was  very  abundant 
We  had  been  following  for  some  time  the  valley  of  a  small 
stream,  called  by  the  i  rench.  Riviere  du  Chemiriy  (Trail 
river,)  but  on  approaching  near  to  its  mouth,  our  path 
winded  to  the  south,  and  we  found  ourselves  at  the  base  of 
a  sand-hill  of  about  twenty  feet  in  height ;  the  fog  which 
arose  behind  it,  and  the  coolness  of  the  air  warned  us  of  our 
app.'oach  to  the  lake,  and  on  turning  along  the  base  of  the 
hill  we  di  covered  ourselves  to  be  on  tlie  beach  of  Lake 
Michigan.  The  scenery  changes  here  most  suddenly ;  in- 
stead of  the  low,  level  and  uniformly  green  prairies,  through 
which  we  had  been  travelling  for  some  time  past,  or  of  the 
beech  swamp  which  had  o£fered  us  such  difficulties  during 
the  last  four  hours  of  our  ride,  we  found  ourselves  transport- 
ed, as  it  were,  to  the  shores  of  an  ocean.  We  were  near  to 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  lake ;  the  view,  towards  the 
north,  was  boundless ;  the  eye  meeting  nothing  but  the  vast 
expanse  of  water  which  spread  like  an  ocean,  its  surface  at 
that  time  as  calm  and  unruffled  as  though  it  were  a  sheet  of 
ice.  Towards  the  south,  the  prospect  was  limited  to  a  few 
hundred  yards,  being  suddenly  cut  off  by  a  range  of  low 
sand-hills,  which  arose  to  a  height  varying  from  twenty  to 
forty  feet,  in  some  instances  rising  perhaps  to  upwards  of  one 


158 


EXPEDITION   TO  THE 


1  '    'Vi 


hundred  feet  When  we  first  approached  the  lake,  it  was  co- 
vered with  a  mist,  which  ^oon  vanished  and  the  bright  sun, 
reflected  upon  the  sand  and  water,  produced  a  glare  of  light 
quite  fatiguing  to  the  eye.  Our  progress  was  in  a  south- 
westwardly  direction,  along  the  beach,  which  reminded  us 
of  that  of  the  Atlantic  on  the  coast  of  New  Jersey.  The 
sand-hills  are  undulating  and  crowned  at  their  summits 
with  a  scrubby  growth  of  white  pine  and  furze ;  while  the 
brow,  which  faces  the  lake,  is  quite  bare.  In  the  rear  of  the 
hills,  but  invisible  from  the  beach,  spreads  a  level  country 
supporting  a  scattering  growth  of  white  pine,  oak,  beech, 
hophorn-beam,  (Ostrya  virginica,)  &c.  East  and  west  of  us,  a 
continuous  narrow  beach  curved  gradually  towards  the  north 
and,  bounded  by  the  lake  and  the  hills,  was  all  that  the  eye 
could  observe.  At  our  evening's  encampment  of  the  4th  of 
June,  we  were  at  the  southernmost  extremity  of  the  lake, 
and  could  distinctly  observe  that  its  south-eastern  corner  is 
the  arc  of  a  greater  circle  than  the  south-western.  The  beach 
is  strewed  with  fragments  of  rocks,  evidently  primitive, 
and  probably  derived  from  the  decomposition  of  the  same 
masses  which,  by  their  destruction,  have  given  rise  to  the 
immense  deposite  of  sand  and  pebbles  that  forms  the  bot- 
tom of  the  lake.  These  fragments,  which  are  all  rolled, 
vary  much  in  size ;  the  largest  we  observed  weighed  per- 
haps twenty  or  thirty  tons.  Tliey  consist  of  granite,  mica 
and  clay-slates,  hornblende,  &c.  The  hills  appear  to  have 
been  produced  by  the  constant  accumulation  of  sand,  blown 
from  the  beach,  by  the  strong  north-westerly  winds  which 
prevail  during  the  winter  season ;  the  sand  is  loose  and 
uncemented.  In  a  few  places  traces  of  lignite  and  peat 
are  to  be  met  with ;  doubtless  resulting  from  the  decompo- 
sition of  thfj  partial  vegetation  which  grew  upon  these  hills, 
and  which  was  successively  destroyed  and  buried  under 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER's   RIVER. 


159 


lake,  it  was  co- 
the  bright  sun, 
I  a  glare  of  light 
vas  in  a  south- 
ich  reminded  us 
V  Jersey.    The 
;  their  summits 
furze  *,  while  the 
[n  the  rear  of  the 
i  a  level  country 
>ine,  oak,  beech, 
tand  westof  us,a 
x)wai*ds  the  north 
as  all  that  the  eye 
lent  of  the  4th  of 
nity  of  the  lake, 
i-eastern  comer  is 
!stern.  The  beach 
iently  primitive, 
ition  of  the  same 
given  rise  to  the 
at  forms  the  bot- 
ich  are  all  rolled, 
ved  weighed  per- 
it  of  granite,  mica 

[Is  appear  to  have 
on  of  sand,  blown 
berly  winds  which 
land  is  loose  and 
lignite  and  peat 
•om  the  decompo- 
V  upon  these  hills, 
md  buried  under 


the  sand ;  perhaps  also  from  some  of  the  drift-wood  which 
is  often  carried  ashore  by  the  waves. 

The  lake  appears  to  abound  in  fish,  judging  from  the  quan- 
tity that  we  saw  gliding  along  the  surface  of  the  water;  upon 
the  beach  there  were  many  that  lay  dead,  and  that  in  some 
places  rendered  the  air  quite  fetid.  These  belonged  chiefly 
to  the  pike,  the  salmon-trout,  &c.  We  cannot  learn  that 
there  is  any  great  variety  in  the  fish  found  in  this  lake. 
The  streams  passed  this  day,  during  our  ride  along  the 
beach,  were  inconsiderable ;  the  first  is  termed  the  Riviere 
des  BaiSf  probably  from  the  quantity  of  drift-wood  ob- 
served near  it;  the  English  appellation  for  it  is  Stick 
river ;  the  second,  which  we  met,  was  the  Big  Calamick, 
(K&-n6-m6-k6nk  of  the  Indians,)  where  the  party  dispersed, 
during  the  evening,  each  to  attend  to  his  own  avocations. 
Major  Long  and  Mr.  Colhoun  commenced  observations 
for  It  atude,  which  they  found  difficult  to  complete  on 
account  of  the  fog  which  spread  over  the  lake.  Hunting 
and  fishing  parties  were  sent  out,  but  which  returned  with- 
out having  met  with  any  success. 

The  colour  of  the  streams  which  we  passed  indicates  their 
origin  in  a  swamp ;  and  the  great  excess  of  water  in  this 
fen  during  some  seasons,  together  with  the  loose  nature  of 
the  sandy  bar  which  divides  it  from  the  lake,  causes  it  fre^ 
quently  to  force  the  dam,  and  open  to  itself  a  new  passage 
into  the  lake ;  there  are  near  to  this  place  two  streams,  one 
of  which,  named  Pine  river  was  opened  last  year ;  the  other, 
termed  New  river,  was  formed  a  short  time  before.  We 
crossed  both  these  streams  as  well  as  the  little  Calamick, 
and  finding  that  the  travelling  on  the  beach  had  become 
very  uncomfortable,  owing  to  a  heavy  fog,  and  a  strong 
lake  wipd  which  announced  an  approaching  storm,  we 
crossed  the  sand  hills,  and  travelled  on  the  prairie ;  in  this 


lOO 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


It.  1; 


^1      t' 


manner  we  were  well  sheltered  from  the  wind.  Our  path 
led  us  over  the  scene  of  the  bloody  massacre  perpetrated 
in  1812,  when  the  garrison  of  Chicago  was  entirely  de- 
stroyed by  the  Indians,  (principally  Potawatomis,)  after 
they  had  abandoned  the  fort  and  in  violation  of  the  pledge 
given  to  them  by  the  Indians.  No  traces  are  now  to  be 
been  of  the  massacre;  the  bones,  which  are  said  to  have  re- 
mained for  a  long  while  bleaching  upon  the  prairie,  were  at 
last  gathered  up  and  buried  by  order  of  Captain  Bradley, 
who  had  the  c>.ommand  of  the  new  fort  built  on  the  ruins  of 
the  old  one ;  but  no  one  could  point  out  to  us  the  spot 
jvliere  they  had  been  deposited.  While  resting  at  noon, 
on  the  bank  of  New  river,  we  observed  how  difficult  it  is 
to  judge  correctly  of  objects  on  ttie  prairie  and,  at  the  same 
time,  how  great  is  the  similarity  between  the  prairie  wolf  and 
the  dogs  owned  by  the  Indians.  While  seated  at  dinner,  we 
were  told  that  one  of  the  soldiers  had  discovered  a  wolf 
and  was  about  to  fire  upon  it  The  whole  party  saw  the 
animal  and  remained  convinced  that  it  was  a  wolf,  until  one 
of  the  men  observed  an  Indian  hut  in  the  distance,  and  sug- 
gested that  it  might  be  a  dog  belonging  to  the  tenant  of  the 
hut,  which  information  induced  the  soldier  to  desist  from 
shooting ;  a  few  moments  afterwards  an  Indian  made  his 
appearance  on  the  prairie  and  called  the  animal  to  him. 
This  Indian  was  remarkable  for  the  length  of  his  beard, 
which,  contrary  to  their  usual  custom,  he  had  allowed  to 
grow  to  the  length  of  one  inch  and  a  hdlf;  his  dress  was 
indicative  of  the  same  slovenly  disposition.  We  were  ob- 
liged to  commit  to  his  charge  one  of  the  horses ;  this  was  the 
only  one  that  had  travelled  the  whole  distance  from  Phil- 
adelphia ;  but  he  had  become  unable  to  proceed,  having 
been  affected  for  some  time  past  with  the  distemper;  and, 
notwithstanding  all  the  care  that  was  taken  of  him,  he  had 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


161 


become  so  faint  that,  even  without  any  load,  we  found  it  im- 
possible to  make  him  keep  up  with  the  rest  of  the  horses. 
The  Indian  undertook  to  take  care  of  him  for  a  ft  \v  days, 
and  then  lead  him  to  the  fort,  which  promise  he  faithfully 
discharged. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  fifth  of  June,  we  reached  Fort 
Dearborn,  (Chicago,)  having  been  engaged  eight  days  in 
travelling  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  sixteen  miles, 
making  an  average  of  twenty-seven  miles  per  day.  Our 
estimate  of  the  distance  exceeds  the  usual  allowance  by 
sixteen  miles,  on  account  of  the  circuitous  route  which  we 
took  to  a^'oid  crossing  the  Elkheart.  At  Fort  Dearborn 
we  stopped  for  a  few  days,  with  a  vie  t  examine  the 
country  and  make  further  preparations'  for  v^:;  journey  to 
the  Mississippi. 

In  taking  a  retrospective  view  of  the  r  --ture  of  the  coun- 
try travelled  over,  we  find  that  from  Fort  Wayne  to  twenty 
miles  west  of  Devil  river,  it  presents  as  it  were  two  dis* 
tinct  surfaces.  The  first,  or  lower  one,  is  a  level  moist 
prairie  covered  with  luxuriant  herbage ;  the  second,  or  uppeif 
one,  is  abruptly  elevated  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  abov6 
the  prairie  land,  and  consists  of  a  succession  of  flat  ridges^ 
uniform  in  height,  but  of  unequal  breadth,  that  are  fre- 
quently  disconnected  by  narrow  straits  of  prairie  land; 
from  this  circumstance  the  lower  level  presents  a  continu- 
ous surface,  while  the  upper  one  is  broken  into  distinct 
ridges  insulated  in  the  midst  of  the  prairie.  The  soil  of 
the  ridges  is  poor  and  gravelly,  covered  with  a  thin  growth 
of  scrubby  oaks ;  it  appears  to  have  been  occasioned  by  what 
has  been  termed  an  ancient  alluvial  formation,  (probably 
similar  to  those  extensive  deposites  which  are  said  to  con- 
stitute the  great  plains  that  are  observed  in  South  America ;) 
this  formation  having  been  afterwards  divided  by  valleys 

Vol.  I.  21 


IfiS 


EXPEDITION   TO    TIIE 


of  a  still  later  origin,  has  produced  a  lower  level  that 
is  filled  with  a  newer  alluvion  probably  resulting  frofh 
the  action  of  causes  which  still  continue  to  operate  to 
this  day ;  as  we  had  an  opportunity  of  remarking  in  the 
prairie  east  of  the  trading  house  which  we  visited  pre- 
viously to  our  arrival  at  the  Carey  station.  To  these 
ridges  succeeds  a  broken  country  consisting  of  insulated 
hills  of  a  soil  still  inferior,  but  having  more  trees ;  among  the 
oaks,  that  grow  here,  we  observed  for  the  first  time  the 
hickory  interspersed. 

Fort  Dearborn  is  situated  in  the  State  of  Illinois,  on  the 
south  bank,  and  near  to  the  mouth  of  Chicago  river ;  the 
boundary  line  between  this  state  and  that  of  Indiana  strikes 
the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  ten  miles  north  of  its 
southernmost  extremity,  and  then  continues  along  the 
shore  of  the  lake  until  it  reaches  the  forty-second  and  a 
half  degree  of  north  latitude,  along  which  it  extends  to 
the  Mississippi.  The  post  at  Chicago  was  abandoned  a  few 
months  after  the  party  visited  it.  Its  establishment  had 
been  found  necessary  to  intimidate  the  hostile  and  still 
very  powerful  tribes  of  Indians  that  inhabit  this  part  of  the 
country ;  but  the  rapid  extension  of  the  white  population 
to  the  west,  the  establishment  along  the  Mississippi  of  a 
chain  of  military  posts  which  encloses  them,  and  at  the 
same  time  convinces  them  of  the  vigilance  of  the  govern- 
ipent,  and  of  the  inevitable  destruction  which  they  would 
bring  upon  themselves  by  the  most  trifling  act  of  hostility 
on  their  part,  have,  it  is  thought,  rendered  the  continuance 
of  a  military  force  at  this  place  unnecessary.  An  Indian 
agent  remains  there,  in  order  to  keep  up  amicable  relations 
with  them,  and  to  attend  to  their  wants,  which  are  daily 
becoming  greater,  owing  to  the  increasing  scarcity  of  game 
in  the  country. 

We  were  much  disappointed  at  the  appearance  of  Chi- 


T'T 


SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETEr's   RIVER. 


163 


cage  and  its  vicinity.  We  found  in  it  nothing  to  justify 
the  great  eulogium  lavished  upon  this  place  by  a  late, 
traveller,  who  observes  that "  it  is  the  most  fertile  and 
beautiful  that  can  be  imagined."  "  As  a  farming  country," 
says  he,  « it  unites  the  fertile  soil  of  the  finest  lowland 
prairies  with  an  elevation  which  exempts  it  from  the  in- 
fluence of  stagnant  waters,  and  a  summer  climate  of  de- 
lightful serenity."*  The  best  comment  upon  this  description 
of  the  climate  and  soil  is  the  fact  that,  with  the  most  active 
vigilance  on  the  part  of  the  officers,  it  was  impossible  for 
the  garrison,  consisting  of  from  seventy  to  ninety  men,  to 
subsist  themselves  upon  the  grain  raised  in  the  country, 
although  much  of  their  time  was  devoted  to  agricultural 
pursuits.  The  difficulties  which  the  agriculturist  meets 
with  here  are  numerous ;  they  arise  from  the  shallowness 
of  the  soil,  from  its  humidity,  and  from  its  exposure  to  the 
cold  and  damp  winds  which  blow  from  the  lake  with  great 
force  during  most  part  of  the  year;  the  grain  is  fre- 
quently destroyed  by  swarms  of  insects ;  there  are  also  a 
number  of  destructive  birds  of  which  it  was  impossible  for 
the  garrison  to  avoid  the  baneful  influence,  except  by  keep- 
ing, as  was  practised  at  B'ort  Dearborn,  a  party  of  soldierti 
constantly  engaged  at  shooting  at  the  crows  and  blackbirds 
that  depredated  upon  the  com  planted  by  them.  But,  even 
with  all  these  exertions,  the  maize  seldom  has  time  to  ri- 
pen, owing  to  the  shortness  and  coldness  of  the  season.  The 
provisions  for  the  garrison  were  for  the  most  part  conveyed 
from  Mackinaw  in  a  schooner,  and  sometimes  they  were 
brought  from  St  Louis,  a  distance  of  three  hundred  and 
eighty-six  miles  up  the  Illinois  and  Des  Plaines  rivers. 

The  appearance  of  the  country  near  Chicago  ofiers  but 
few  features  upon  which  the  eye  of  the  traveller  can  dwell 

*  Schoolcraft's  Narrative  Journal  of  Travels,  (Albany,  1820,)  page 
384. 


164 


EXPEDITION   TO   THli: 


with  pleasure.  There  is  too  much  uniformity  in  the 
•cenery;  the  extensive  water  prospect  is  a  waste  uncheck- 
ercd  hy  islands,  unenlivened  by  the  spreading  canvass,  and 
the  fatiguing  monotony  of  which  is  increased  by  the 
equally  undiversified  prospect  of  the  land  scenery,  which 
affords  no  relief  to  the  sight,  as  it  consists  merely  of  a  plain 
in  which  but  few  patches  of  thin  and  scrubby  woods  are 
observed  scattered  here  and  there. 

The  village  presents  no  cheering  prospect,  as,  notwith- 
standing its  antiquity,  it  consists  of  but  few  huts,  inhabit- 
ed by  a  miserable  race  of  men,  scarcely  equal  to  the  In- 
dians from  whom  they  are  descended.  Their  log  or  bark 
houses  are  low,  filthy  and  disgusting,  displaying  not  the 
least  trace  of  comfort  Chicago  is  perhaps  one  of  the 
oldest  settlements  in  the  Indian  country;  its  name,  derived 
from  the  Potawatomi  language,  signifies  either  a  skunk,  or 
ft  wild  onion ;  and  either  of  these  significations  has  been  oc- 
casionally given  for  it  A  fort  is  said  to  hsive  formerly  exist- 
ed there.  Mention  is  made  of  the  place  as  having  been  visited 
in  1671  by  Perot,  who  found  "Chicagou"  to  be  the  resi- 
dence of  a  powerful  chief  of  the  Miamis.  The  number  of 
trails  centring  all  at  this  spot,  and  their  apparent  antiquity, 
indicate  that  this  was  probably  for  a  long  while  the  site  of 
a  large  Indian  village.  As  a  place  of  business,  it  offers  no 
inducement  to  the  settler ;  for  the  whole  annual  amount  of 
the  trade  on  the  lake  did  not  exceed  the  cargo  of  five  or  six 
schooners  even  at  the  time  when  the  garrison  received  its 
supplies  from  Mackinaw.  It  is  not  impossible  that  at  some  dis- 
tant day,  when  the  banks  of  the  Illinois  shall  have  been  cover- 
ed with  a  dense  population,  and  when  the  low  prairies  which 
extend  between  that  river  and  Fort  Wayne,  shall  have  ac- 
quired a  population  proportionate  to  the  produce  which  they 
can  yield,  that  Chicago  may  become  one  of  the  points  in 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER's   RIVER. 


165 


bnnity  in  the 
waste  uncheck- 
ng  canvasS)  and 
creased  by  the 
scenery,  which 
nerely  ofaplain 
bby  woods  are 

2ct,  as,  notwith- 
iw  huts,  inhabit- 
equal  to  the  In- 
heir  log  or  bark 
iplaying  not  the 
tiaps  one  of  the 
its  name,  derived 
lither  a  skunk,  or 
ions  has  been  oc- 
e  formerly  exist- 
iving  been  visited 
'*  to  be  the  resi- 
The  number  of 
)pai'ent  antiquity, 
while  the  site  of 
iness,  it  offers  no 
mnual  amount  of 
irgo  of  five  or  six 
rison  received  its 
e  that  at  some  dis- 
have  been  cover- 
jw  prairies  which 
ne,  shall  have  ac- 
)duce  which  they 
of  the  points  in 


ihc  direct  line  of  communication  between  the  northern 
lakes  and  the  Mississippi ;  but  even  the  intercourse  which 
will  be  earned  on  through  this  communication,  will  we 
think  at  all  times  be  a  limited  one ;  the  dangers  attending 
the  navigation  of  the  lake,  and  the  scarcity  of  harbours 
along  the  shore,  must  ever  prove  a  serious  obstacle  to  the 
increase  of  the  commercial  importance  of  Chicago.  The 
extent  of  the  sand  banks  which  arc  formed  un  the  eastern 
and  southern  shore,  by  the  prevailing  north  and  north- 
westerly winds,  will  likewise  prevent  any  important  works 
from  being  undertaken  to  improve  the  post  of  Chicago. 

The  south  fork  of  Chicago  river  takes  its  rise,  about  six 
miles  from  the  fort,  in  a  swamp  which  communicates  also 
with  the  Des  Plaincs,  one  of  the  head  branches  of  the  Illi- 
nois.  Having  been  informed  that  t'*is  route  was  frequent- 
ly travelled  by  traders,  and  that  it  had  been  used  by  one 
of  the  officers  of  the  garrison,  who  returned  with  provi- 
sions from  St  Louis  a  few  days  before  our  arrival  at  the 
fort,  we  determined  to  ascend  the  Chicago  river  in  order 
to  observe  this  interesting  division  of  waters.  We  ac- 
cordingly left  the  fort  on  the  7th  of  June,  in  a  boat  which, 
after  having  ascended  the  river  about  four  miles,  we  ex- 
changed for  a  narrow  pirogue  that  drew  less  water ;  the 
stream  we  were  ascending  was  very  narrow,  rapid,  and 
crooked,  presenting  a  great  fall }  it  continued  so  for  about 
three  miles,  when  we  reached  a  sort  of  swamp  desig- 
nated by  the  Canadian  voyagers  under  the  name  of  le  petit 
lac.  Our  course  through  this  swamp,  which  extended  for 
three  miles,  was  very  much  impeded  by  the  high  grasS, 
weeds,  &c.  through  which  our  pirogue  passed  with  diffi- 
culty. Observing  that  our  progress  through  the  fen  was  very 
^'ow,  and  the  day  being  considerably  advanced,  we  landed 
on  the  north  bank;  and  continued  our  course  along  ih9 


166 


I'X^EDITION   TO   THE 


edge  of  the  swamp  for  about  three  miles,  until  we  reached 
the  place  where  the  old  portage  road  meets  the  current, 
"  vhich  was  here  very  distinct  towards  the  south.  We  were 
delighted  at  behoV^'ng  for  the  first  time,  a  feature  so  inte- 
resting in  itself,  but  which  we  h?*^  afterwards  an  opportunity 
of  observing  frequently  on  the  route ;  viz.  the  division  of 
waters  starting  from  the  same  source,  and  running  in  two 
different  directions,  so  as  to  become  the  feeders  of  streams 
that  discharge  themselves  into  the  ocean  at  immense  dis- 
tances apart.     Although  at  the  time  we  visited  it,  there  was 
scarcely  water  enough  to  permit  our  pirogue  to  pass,  we 
could  not  doubt,  that  in  the  spring  of  the  year  the  route 
must  be  a  very  eligible  one.     Lieut.  Hopson,  who  accom- 
panied us  to  the  Des  Plaines,  told  us  that  he  had  travelled 
it  with  ease,  in  a  boat  loaded  with  lead  and  flour.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  fort  to  the  intersection  of  the  Portage  road 
and  Des  Plaines,  is  supposed  to  be  about  twelve  or  thirteen 
miles;  the  elevation  of  the  feeding  lake  above  Chicago 
river  was  estimated  at  five  or  six  feet ;  and,  it  is  probable 
that  the  descent  to  the  Des  Plaines  is  less  considerable. 
The  Portage  road  is  about  eleven  miles  long ;  the  usual 
distance  travelled  by  land  seldom  however  exceeds  from 
four  to  nine  miles ;  in  very  dry  seasons  it  has  been  said  to 
amount  to  thirty  miles,  as  the  portage  then  extends  to 
Mount  Jul'cl^  near  the  confluence  of  the  Kankakee.  When 
we  consider  the  facts  above  stated,  we  are  irresistably  led  to 
the  conclusion,  that  an  elevation  of  the  lakes  of  a  few  feet, 
(not  exceeding  ten  "r  twelve,)  above  their  present  level, 
would  cause  them  to  discharge  their  waters,  partly  at  least, 
into  the  Gclf  of  Mexico;  that  such  a  discharge  has  at  one 
time  existed,  every  one  conversant  with  the  nature  of  the 
country  must  admit ;  and  it  is  equally  apparent  that  an  ex- 
penditure, trifling  in  comparison  to  the  importance  of  th'^ 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


167 


itil  we  reached 
its  the  current, 
louth.  We  were 
feature  so  inte- 
s  an  opportunity 
the  division  of 
running  in  two 
eders  of  streams 
at  immense  dis- 
jited  it,  there  was 
ogue  to  pass,  we 
e  year  the  route 
json,  who  accom- 
he  had  travelled 
nd  flour.  Thedis- 
the  Portage  road 
twelve  or  thirteen 
te  ahove  Chicago 
nd,  it  is  prohable 
less  considerable, 
islong;  the  usual 
ver  exceeds  from 
it  has  been  said  to 
;  then  extends  to 
Kankakee.  When 
i  irresistably  led  to 
akes  of  a  few  feet, 
leir  present  level, 
ters,  partly  at  ler^st, 
scharge  has  at  one 
the  nature  of  the 
pparent  that  an  ex- 
importance  of  th'^ 


object,  would  again  render  Lake  Michigan  a  tributary  of 
the  Mexican  gulf.  *  Impressed  with  the  importance  of  this 
object,  the  legislature  of  Illinois  has  already  caused  some 
observations  to  be  made  upon  the  possibility  of  establishing 
this  commuiiication ;  the  commissioners  appointed  to  that 
effect,  visited  Chicago  after  we  left  it,  and  we  know  not 
what  results  they  obtained,  as  their  report  has  not  reached 
us ;  but  we  have  been  informed  that  they  had  considered 
the  elevation  of  the  petit  lac  above  Chicago  to  be  some- 
what greater  than  we  had  estimated  it  It  is  the  opinion 
of  those  best  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  the  country, 
that  the  easiest  communication  would  be  between  the  Lit- 
tle Calamick  and  some  point  of  the  Des  Plaines,  probably 
below  the  Portage  road ;  between  these  two  points  there 
i  !*i  wet  seasons,  we  understand,  a  water  communication  of 
te«j  or  twelve  miles.  Of  the  practicability  of  the  work,  and 
of  the  sufficiency  of  a  supply  of  water  no  doubt  can  exist. 
The  only  difficulty  will,  we  apprehend,  be  in  keeping  the 
communication  open  after  it  is  once  made,  as  the  soil  is 
swampy,  and  probably  will  require  particular  care  to  op- 
pose the  return  of  the  soft  mud  into  the  excavations. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Chicago,  a  secondary  lime- 
stone is  found,  disposed  in  horizontal  strata ;  it  contains  many 
organic  remains.  This  limestone  appears  to  us  to  be  very 
similar  in  its  geological  as  well  as  mineralogical  aspect,  to 
that  observed  above  the  coal  formation  on  the  Miami ;  but 
no  superposition  being  visible,  it  is  impossible  for  us  to 
determine  at  present  its  relative  age ;  we  however  incline 
to  the  opinion,  that  it  is  one  of  the  late  secondary  lime- 
stones. We  have  to  regret  that  the  specimens  which  were 
obtained  of  the  same  have  been  lost,  and  that  we  are  depriv- 
ed of  the  opportunity  of  comparing  them  with  those  col- 
lected in  other  parts  of  our  route.     This  limestone,  which 


16S 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


■  i 


1  ; 


lies  exposed  to  view  in  some  places,  is  for  the  most  part 
covered  with  an  alluvial  deposite  consisting  of  the  detritus 
of  primitive  rocks.     Upon  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan, 
specimens  of  native  copper  have  likewise  been  occasionally- 
picked  up.    We  have  in  our  possession,  owing  to  the  libe- 
rality of  Dr.  Hall,  a  specimen  which  is  part  of  a  mass, 
weighing  two  pounds,  found  by  the  express  from  Chicago 
to  Greenbay ;  it  was  picked  up,  on  the  lake  shore,  about 
five  miles  south  of  the  Milwacke,  a  stream  which  empties 
into  the  lake  about  eighty-five  miles  north  of  Chicago; 
the  spot  at  which  it  was  found  is  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Soapbanks,  and  is  stated  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft  to  consist 
of  a  bed  of  white  clay ;  Dr.  Hall  was  led  to  visit  the  spot 
in  hopes  of  finding  more  copper,  but  met  with  none.    We 
have  dwelt  upon  this  fact  merely  from  the  great  im- 
portance which  has  been   attached  to  every  locality  of 
native  copper,  by  those  who  are  induced  to  believe  that, 
where  a  specimen  exists,  a  mine  ought  to  be  looked  for. 
In  reading  the  relations  of  travellers  on  the  subject  we 
become  satisfied  of  the  incorrectness  of  this  conclusion; 
wherever  the  copper  has  been  found,  it  has  always  been 
in   detached   masses,  generally  of  a  small   weight,  and 
appearing  evidently  out  of  place.    We  must  not  there- 
fore expect  to  find  veins  in  their  vicinity ;  if  the  existence 
of  copper  in  the  west  deserves  all  that  importance  which 
it  has  received,  a  circumstance  which  we  very  much  question 
in  the  present  state  of  the  country,  it  is  not  upon  the  study 
of  the  localities  of  these  fragments  of  native  copper  that  we 
are  to  waste  our  time  and  means.     The  main  object  must 
be  to  ascertain  whence  they  came ;  and  this  can  only  be 
determined  by  an  examination  of  the  nature  of  the  valleys, 
of  the  extent  and  abundance  of  the  alluvial  deposite  in 
which  they  are  found,  and  of  the  original  primitive  forma- 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


i6d 


tions,  from  the  pmrtial  destruction  of  which  these  extensive 
deposites  of  alluvion,  and  the  large  boulders  which  ac- 
company them,  have  received  their  origin.  But  these  are 
conbiderations  which  we  shall  not  broach  at  present,  as 
they  will  find  their  place,  more  naturally,  at  a  later  period 
of  this  work. 

Although  the  quantity  of  game  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try is  diminishing  very  rapidly,  and  although  it  is  barely  suf- 
ficient for  the  support  of  the  Indians,  still  there  is  enough, 
and  particularly  of  the  smaller  kind,  to  offer  occupation  to 
the  amateur  sportsman.  There  are  many  different  kinds  of 
aquatic  birds,  which  feed  upon  the  wild  rice,  (Zizania 
aquatica,)  and  other  plants  that  thrive  in  the  swamps  which 
cover  the  country.  Mr.  Say  observed,  among  others,  the 
mallard,  (Anas  boschas,)  shoveller-duck,  (A.  clypeata,) 
blue-winged  teal,  (A.  discors,)  common  merganser,  (Mor- 
bus serrator,)  common  coot,  (Fulicaamericana,)  stellate  he^ 
ron  or  Indian  hen,  ( Ardea  minor,)  &c.  &c.  In  the  lake  there 
is  also  a  great  quantity  of  fish,  but  none  appears  to  be  of  a 
very  superior  quality ;  the  white  fish,  (Coregonus  albus, 
Lesueur,)  which  is  the  greatest  delicacy  found  in  the  lakes^ 
is  not  caught  at  Chicago,  but  sometimes  twenty  or  thirty 
miles  north  of  it. 

Observations,  for  latitude  and  longitude,  were  made  here, 
by  Mr.  Colhoun,  from  which  the  situation  of  this  place  was 
founu  to  be  in  latitude  41°  59'  53"  N.— longitude  86°  47' 
15"  W.— Magnetic  variation  6°  12'  East* 

During  our  short  residence  at  Chicago,  we  were,  by  the 
favour  of  Dr.  Wolcott,  the  Indian  agent,  furnished  with 
much  infoimation  concerning  the  Indians  of  this  vicinity, 
through  his  interpreter,  Alexander  Robinson,  a  half-breed 

•  See  Appendix  II.    The  longitude  cannot  be  depended  upon  with 
certainty,  as  there  was  some  doubt  as  to  the  error  of  the  watch. 
Vol.  I.  22 


170 


BXPEB  TiuN    n    THi. 


Chippewa,  who  inlormed  us  t^»t  w.v  lnd»  ms  who  fr/r^iitut 
this  part  of  the  country  arc  rtav  mucD  intermixed,  be- 
longing principally  to  the  i*otRcvaloit.is,  Ottawas,  and 
Chippewas,  (6'-cb^6-p^'-w%,*)  from  which  circumstance 
a  great  admixture  of  the  three  languages  prevails  here. 
The  vicinity  of  the  Miamis  h^s  also,  in  his  opinion,  tended 
to  adulterate  the  language  of  the  Potawatomis  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Fort  Wayne ;  and  it  is  bt  Ueved  that  this  lan- 
guage is  spoken  in  the  greatest  purity,  only  along  the 
banks  of  the  St  Joseph  of  Lake  Michigan.  Robinson  did 
not  suppose  the  Potawatomis  to  exceed  two  thousand  five 
hundred  souls ;  but  it  is  probable  that  their  number  must 
be  greater ;  especially  as  they  are  united  with  the  Kicka- 
poos,  whose  population  amounts  to  six  hundred  in  the  State 
of  Illinois.  According  to  his  observations,  the  Potawato- 
mis believe  that  they  came  from  Iho  vicinity  of  the  Sault 
de  St.  Marie,  where  they  presun^e  ihat  they  were  created. 
A  singular  belief,  which  tjiey  entertain,  is,  that  the  souls  of 
the  departed  have,  on  their  way  to  the  great  prairie,  to 
cross  a  large  stream,  over  which  a  log  is  placed  as  a  bridge; 
but  that  this  is  in  such  coustanl  .iigitat:on,  that  none  but  the 
spirits  of  good  men  can  pass  over  it  in  safety,  while  those  of 
tiie  bad  hlrp  from  the  log  into  the  water  and  are  never  af- 
ter he-cd  o'U'  This  information  they  pretend  to  have  had 
revealeu  to  them  by  one  of  their  ancestors  who,  being 
dead,  travelled  to  the  edge  of  the  stream,  but  not  liking 


*  We  htve  in  the  course  of  this  vork  conformed  with  the  general 
ttwge  in  the  spelling  of  this  wopd,  dropping  the  final  y  used  by  many 
authors;  but  from  tJhe  above  method  of  spelling  it,  according  to  its 
pronunciation,  it  will  be  readily  observed  that  the  usual  orthography 
can  give  no  idea  of  the  true  Indian  pronunciation  of  this  word.  The 
final  letter  ought  to  be  pronounced  in  a  manner  intermediate  between 
the  s  and  k. 


«> 


• 


SOtTRCS   OF   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


171 


to  venture  on  the  log,  determined  t'^  *rlur^  to  the  h.d  of 
the  living,  v4\ich  nurpcse  he  eflfected,  having 'jf.cn  ;;een  once 
more  among  his  friends,  two  day  s  after  his  reputed  death. 
He  informed  them  of  what  he  had  observed,  and  further 
told  them  that  while  on  the  verge  of  the  scream,  he  had 
heard  the  sounds  of  the  drum,  at  the  beat  of  which  the 
blessed  were  dancing  on  the  opposite  prairie.  This  story 
they  firmly  believe. 

With  a  view  to  collect  as  much  infon*.;ition  as  possible 
on  the  subject  of  Indian  antiquities,  we  inquired  of  Robin- 
son whether  any  traditions,  on  this  subject,  were  current 
among  the  Indians.  He  observed,  that  their  ancient  forti- 
fications were  a  frequent  subject  of  conversation ;  and  es- 
pecially  those  in  the  nature  of  excavations  made  in  the 
ground.  He  had  heard  of  one,  made  by  the  Kickapoos 
and  Fox  Indians,  on  the  Sangamo  river,  a  stream  running 
into  the  Illinois.  This  fortification  is  distinguished  by  the 
name  of  E'tn'Afd^'k.  It  is  known  to  have  served  as  an  in- 
trenchment  to  the  Kickapoos  and  Foxes,  who  were  met 
there  and  defeated  by  the  Potawatomis,  the  Ottowas,  and 
the  Chippewas.  No  date  was  assigned  to  this  transaction. 
We  understood  tha.  the  Etnataek  v/as  near  the  Kickapi'  > 
village  on  the  Sangamo. 

The  hunting  grounds  of  the  Potawatomis  appear  to  .^ 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  St  Joseph,  (which  on  the  vsMi 
side  of  Lake  Michigan  separates  them  from  the  Ottowas,) 
and  the  Milwacke,  which,  on  the  west  si  le  of  the  lake,  di- 
vides them  from  the  Menomones.  They  spread  to  the  south 
along  the  Illinois  river  about  two  hundred  miles ;  to  the  west 
their  grounds  extend  as  far  as  Rock  river,  and  the  Mequin  or 
Spoon  river  of  the  Illinois ;  to  the  east  they  probably  sel- 
dom pass  beyond  the  Wabash. 


"^Al 


M^ 


?5 


.'..s/t^T^^ 


172 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


CHAPTER  V. 


■!i*;|  * 


i 


'knV.- 


iffosA?  rit?«r.  Menomonss.  Geology  of  the  country  west  of 
Lake  Michigan.  Prairie  du  Chien.  Sauka  and  Foxes. 

HAVING  spent  a  few  days  in  Chicago,  the  party  left  that 
post  on  Wednesday,  June  11th.  By  the  instructions  re- 
ceived from  the  War  Department,  Major  Long  had  the 
option  of  striking  the  Mississippi  at  Fort  Armstrong,  or  at 
Dubuque's  lead  mines,  and  then  ascending  that  river  to 
Prairie  du  Chien.  It  appeared  to  him,  however,  that  if  the 
direct  route  to  Prairie  du  Chien,  across  the  prairies,-  was 
practicable,  it  would  sa',ie  several  days;  but  upon  inquiry 
no  person  could  be  found  who  had  ever  travelled  through, 
in  that  direction ;  and  although  from  the  description  of  the 
country,  the  route  was  supposed  to  be  very  practicable, 
yet  from  the  impossibility  of  procuring  a  guide,  it  would 
have  been  relinquished,  had  not  an  old  French  engag6,  by 
the  name  of  Le  Sellier,  undertakein  to  direct  the  party. 
This  man,  who  had  lived  for  upwards  of  thirty  years  with 
the  Indians,  had  taken  a  wife  among  the  Winnebagoes, 
and  settled  on  the  head  waters  of  Rock  river ;  knowing  the 
country  as  far  as  that  stream,  he  presumed  that  he  could  find 
his  way  thence  to  Fort  Crawford,  situated  on  the  Missis- 
sippi near  the  junction  of  the  Wisconsan.  Under  his 
guidance  the  party  proceeded  on  the  first  day  of  their  jour- 
ney, in  a  general  direction  nearly  west,  for  about  seventeen 
miles.  The  first  stream  passed,  on  that  day,  was  the  Chicago 
river,  which  we  crossed  about  half  a  mile  above  the  fort, 
and  immediately  above  the  first  fork,  (or  Gary's  river) ;  tlie 


<$ 


souRCfi  OF  ST.  Peter's  river. 


173 


party  next  came  to  the  River  des  Plaines,  which  is  one  of  the 
head  branches  of  the  Illinois ;  it  receives  its  name  from  a  va- 
riety of  maple,  which  by  the  Canadians  is  named  Plaine.  In 
Potawatomi  the  river  is  termed  Sh£-shlk-in&-6-shI-k£  S6-p*, 
(which  signifies  ^umenarboris  quae  mingit. J  This  appel- 
lation is  derived  from  the  great  quantity  of  sap  which  flows 
from  this  tree  in  the  spring.  We  crossed  the  Des  Plaines 
about  four  miles  above  the  Portage  road;  it  was  forty 
yards  wide,  and  so  deep  that  part  of  our  baggage  was  wet 
while  fording  it,  but  fortunately  none  materially  injured. 
The  length  of  the  Des  Plaines  from  this  ford  to  its  source 
is  about  fifteen  miles,  that  to  its  confluence  with  the  Kan- 
kakee about  forty  miles. 

We  encamped  on  the  east  bank  of  a  small  stream,  about 
eight  yards  wide,  designated  by  the  Indians  under  the 
name  of  6-t6-ki-k£'-n6g,  which  means  the  uncovered  breast. 
The  voyagers  call  it  De  Page's  river,  from  a  Frenchman 
of  that  name,  who  died  and  was  buried  on  the  banks  of 
this  stream.  The  De  Page  enters  the  Des  Plaines  about 
half  a  mile  above  its  junction  with  the  Kankakee.  From 
Chicago  to  the  place  where  we  forded  the  Des  Plaines,  the 
country  presents  a  low,  flat,  and  swampy  prairie,  very 
thickly  covered  with  high  grass,  aquatic  plants,  and  among 
others  with  the  wild  rice.  The  latter  occurs  principally 
in  the  places  which  are  still  under  water ;  its  blades  float- 
ing on  the  surface  of  the  fluid  like  those  of  the  young  do- 
mestic plant.  The  whole  of  this  tract  of  country  is  over- 
flowed during  the  spring,  and  canoes  pass  in  every  direction 
across  the  prairie.  Near  the  fording  of  the  Des  Plaines 
there  is  a  Potawatomi  village,  some  of  tne  inhabitants  of 
which  came  to  converse  with  us,  while  we  were  encamped 
at  noon,  during  a  thunder  storm.  The  birds  we  saw  to-day 
consisted  of  prairie  hens  or  grous,  (Tetrao  cupido)  reed- 


'■jK 


174 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


birds;  (Emberiza  oryzivora,  Wilson,)  sand-hill  cranes,  (Grus 
canadensis,)  curlews,  &c.  Many  badger  holes  were  observ' 
ed ;  we  saw  at  the  garrison  one  of  these  animals,  that  had  been 
raised  in  the  fort,  and  whose  playful,  inoffensive  manners, 
had  made  him  a  general  favourite. 

A  ride  of  about  eighteen  miles  brought  us  to  the  banks 
of  Fox  river,  which  is  a  fine  stream  about  one  hundred  and 
thirty  yards  wide,  the  scenery  of  which  is  varied  by  seve- 
ral islands  scattered  through  its  channel.  The  country, 
which  consisted  of  prairie  land,  became  handsomely  wooded 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  river ;  a  couple  of  Indian  lodges, 
seen  in  the  distance,  gave  an  appearance  of  inhabitance  i% 
the  spot  These  we  found  to  belong  to  the  M^^n6-iD^6-n^^, 
or  wild  rice  eaters,  a  nation  that  appears  to  be  fast  decreas- 
ing in  numbers.  The  reports  concerning  the  Menomone 
nation  are  so  various,  and  we  observed  so  few  of  them  on 
the  route,  that  we  had  not  an  opportunity  of  forming  an 
opinion  upon  the  disputed  point  of  their  Algonquin  origin. 
It  is  said  that  few  if  any  white  men  have  ever  been  able  to 
learn  their  language ;  and  we  have  been  assured  by  the  late 
Indian  Agent  at  Greenbay,  (Major  John  Biddle,)  that  he  had 
found  it  difficult  to  obtain  an  interpreter  capable  of  con- 
versing with  them  in  their  own  language.  A  consider- 
able intercourse  has,  however,  existed  between  them  and 
white  men ;  but  it  is  said  to  be  principally  in  the  Algon- 
quin languages,  the  prevailing  medium  of  intercourse  being 
the  Chippewa,  Ottawa,  and  Potawatomi  languages,  or  as  in 
most  cases  a  mixture  of  these  three  dialects.  The  few 
Menomones  whom  we  met  with  were  of  a  light  colour, 
resembling  much  that  of  the  light  mulattoes  in  our  Atlantic 
states,  probably  nearer  the  colour  of  individuals  resulting 
from  an  admixture  of  five-eighths  European  with  three- 
eighths  of  African  blood.    It  is  said  that  this  light  colour 


® 


SOURCE  or  ST.  petbr's  river. 


175 


rane8,(Grus 
^ere  observ- 
hat  had  been 
ve  manners, 

o  the  banks 
hundred  and 
'ied  by  seve- 
rhe  country, 
mely  wooded 
ndian  lodges, 
nhabitence  t^^ 
r6-n6-in'A-n'6, 
i  fast  decrcas- 
e  Menomone 
«r  of  them  on 
)f  forming  an 
)nquin  origin. 
r  been  able  to 
red  by  the  late 
e,)  that  he  had 
ipable  of  con- 

A  consider- 
een  them  and 
in  the  Algon- 
ereourse  being 
uages,  or  as  in 
cts.    The  few 

light  colour, 
in  our  Atlantic 
duals  resulting 
m  with  three- 
is  light  colour 


which  distinguishes  the  Menomones  from  other  Indians, 
results  from  a  general  admixture  of  European  blood. 
But  we  have  been  assured,  that  even  when  of  pure  Indian 
extraction,  they  are  of  a  lighter  colour  than  their  neighbours, 
and  are  therefore  often  called  the  White  Indians.  Whether 
they  be  descendants  of  the  Algonquins,  or  of  a  different 
race  of  men,  is  a  question  of  much  importance,  and  which 
perhaps  may  yet  be  resolved  by  those,  whose  opportunities 
of  obtaining  information,  on  that  subject,  are  greater  than 
ours  were.  If  they  be  sprung  from  a  different  race  of  men, 
it  may  still  be  questioned  whether  they  settled  here,  previ- 
ously or  subsequently  to  the  Algonquin  tribes.  Charle- 
voix says  that  they  were  not  populous  in  his  time.  "  This  is 
to  be  regretted,"  he  adds,  "  fur  they  are  very  fine  men,  and 
the  best  shaped  of  all  Canada;  they  are  even  taller  than  the 
Pouteouatamis.  I  am  assured  that  they  have  the  same  origin 
and  nearly  the  same  language  as  the  Noquets  and  Saulteurs, 
(Leapers  ;)*  but  they  add,  that  they  have  also  a  particular 
languagey  which  they  keep  to  themselves"^  The  Meno- 
mones at  present  reside  principally  on  the  west  shore  of 
Lake  Michigan  north  of  the  Milwacke,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Greenbay,  and  on  the  head  waters  of  Fox  river,  (of  Green- 
bay,)  of  Menomone  river,  &c.  Their  personal  appearance 
is  very  favourable,  and  indicative  of  more  neatness,  and  of  a 
greater  taste  for  ornament,  than  that  of  any  other  of  our 
north-western  Indians.  Their  mode  of  preparing  belt<), 
garters,  sheaths  for  knives,  moccasins,  &c.  and  of  ornament- 
ing them  with  beads,  and  with  the  coloured  quills  of  por- 
cupines, evinces  much  taste,  and  this  of  the  best  kind. 
It  does  not  appear  that  with  them  the  mere  combination  of 
many  gaudy  colours  constitutes  beauty ;  but  this  is  made  to 


•  Chippewfts. 


f  Journal  Historique,  Letter  19tb. 


® 


® 


® 


17(i 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


'  ~  ■■ "  'i!'j 


'^A  *'■(    " 


III 

I  ^jj  Ilk  rn«i 


© 


depend  more  upon  the  proper  union  of  the  three  colours, 
white,  red,  and  bliie  united,  to  form  symmetric  and  varied 
designs. 

The  Fox  river,  which  we  crossed,  must  not  be  mistaken 
for  the  same  which  runs  north-eastwardly  into  Greenbay  of 
Lake  Michigan.  Its  course  is  in  a  different  direction, 
being  nearly  south-west ;  it  falls  into  the  Illinois  about 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  below  the  conflu*:,i..iL'<?  of  the  Des 
Plaines  and  Kankakee. 

The  Fox  river  of  the  Illinois  is  called  by  the  Indians 
Pish-fi-ki.  It  is  the  same  which  is  mentioned  by  Charle- 
voix under  the  name  of  Pisticoui,  and  which  flows,  as  he 
says,  through  the  country  of  the  Mascoutins.  At  j)resent  it 
is  claimed,  at  least  in  this  part,  by  the  Potawatomis  and 
Kickapoos,  who  are  incorporated  together;  the  Meno- 
mones  are  allowed  to  remain  there,  on  account  of  their 
being;  connected  by  intermarriages.  The  river  has  a  fine 
gravelly  bottom,  and  was  very  easily  forded.  On  the  west 
side  we  reached  a  beautiful  but  small  prairie,  situated  on  a 
high  bank,  which  approaches  within  two  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  of  the  edge  of  the  water;  and  upon  this  piairie  we 
discovered  a  number  of  mounds,  which  appeared  to  have 
been  arranged  with  a  certain  degree  of  regularity.  Of  thesf^ 
mounds  we  counted  twenty-seven;  they  vary  from  one  io 
four  feet  and  a  half  in  height,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
in  length ;  their  breadth  is  not  proportional  to  their  length, 
as  it  seldoni  exceeds  from  six  to  eight  feet  They  are 
placed  at  unequal  distances,  which  average  about  twenty 
yards;  they  are  chiefly  upon  the  brow  of  the  hill,  but  some 
of  them  stand  at  a  !;reater  distance  back.  Their  form  ap- 
pears to  Ifeve  hern  originally  oval ;  and  the  slight  depres- 
sion in  the  ground,  observed  sometimes  on  both  sides  of 
a  mound,  seems  to  indicate,  that  it  has  been  rdsed  by 


SOUBCE   OF   ST.   PETER's   RIVER. 


177 


ree  colours, 
;  and  varied 

be  mistaken 
Gref^nbay  of 
it  direction, 
Uinois  about 
,  of  the  Des 

the  Indians 
d  by  Charle- 
i  flows,  as  he 
At  present  it 
iwatomis  and 
;  the  Meno- 
lount  of  their 
[ver  has  a  fine 
.    On  the  west 
t,  situated  on  a 
idred  and  fifty 
his  prairie  we 
)eared  to  have 
irity.   Ofthes-^ 
ry  from  one  to 
to  twenty-five 
to  their  length, 
set.    They  are 
about  twenty 
e  hill,  but  some 
Their  form  ap- 
slight  depres- 
both  sides  of 
)een  raSfsed  by 


means  of  the  earth  collected  in  its  immediate  vicinity. 
We  remained  ignorant  of  the  causes  which  may  have 
given  rise  to  their  construction,  or  of  the  circumstances  un- 
der which  they  were  executed.  Of  their  artificial  nature, 
no  doubt  could  be  entertained.  They  may  probably  have 
been  ancient  dirt  lodges,  similar  to  the  ruins  observed  by 
Mr.  Say,  during  the  expedition  to  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  which  were  known  to  be  the  remains  of  lodges  that 
had  existed  within  the  memory  of  some  of  the  Indians 
then  living.  It  does  not  appear  that  the  Indians,  who  re- 
side near  the  Fox  river,  have  any  recollection  or  tradition 
on  this  subject  Our  guide  informed  us,  that  they  believed, 
upon  the  authority  of  the  missionaries,  that  these  mound^i 
were  of  antediluvian  origin,  and  probably  erected  as  places 
of  retreat  for  their  families  in  time  of  war. 

Proceeding  two  miles  further,  through  a  thinly  wooded 
country,  we  crossed  a  brook  four  yai-ds  wide ;  and  six  miles 
further  of  fine  rolling  prairie,  interspersed  with  light 
woods,  brought  us  to  our  encampment  of  the  i2th  of 
June.  As  we  stopped  upon  the  encamping  ground,  a 
night-hawk  flew  away  and  abandoned  two  eggs,  which 
she  appeared  to  have  deposited  on  the  ground,  without 
preparing  any  kind  of  nest;  they  were  of  a  dull  white  co* 
lour,  thickly  spotted  over  with  dirty  brown  blotches.  A 
heavy  shower,  accompanied  by  thunder  and  lightning, 
made  the  weather  very  comfortable.  But  a  high  wind, 
which  arose  during  the  night,  rendered  travelling  very  un- 
pleasant in  the  morning.  At  about  twenty-eight  miles  in 
a  general  westerly  course  from  the  Pishtako,  we  came 
to  a  beautiful  windir  stream,  called  the  Kish-w^^-kd,  (Cot« 
tonwood.)  It  is  about  twelve  yards  wide,  and  is  a  tributary 
of  Rock  river.  About  one  and  a  hajl"  mile  below  the  place 
where  we  forded  this  stream^^we  saw  a  small  Indian  vi|- 

VoL.  I.  23  "^      «  • 


® 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


■  50 


■  2.5 


2.2 


|^»^  IIIIM 

1.8 


1.25      1.4   |||||i^ 

^ 

6" 

► 

Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


^ 


N^ 


fV 


\\ 


V 


6^ 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  •73-4503 


o 


1  .fJ^llL  ulfl  r 


178 


4/^M  EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


U'nii^ 


L'i5!:-v?fe^ 


lage,  designat»'d  by  the  name  of  Wa-k^'gi,  (little  bend,) 
from  its  situation  at  one  of  the  bends  of  the  Kishwake.  It 
consisted  of  four  lodges,  the  population  of  which  was  com- 
puted to  amount  to  at  least  sixty  persons,  as  there  were 
many  crowded  into  one  lodge ;  the  village  is  chiefly  inha- 
bited by  M enomones,  with  a  few  Fotawatomis  who  have  in- 
termarried with  them.  We  stopped  at  the  lodge  of  the 
chief,  whose  name  is  K^-k^&-kS'-sh^4,  (Ciow.)  He,  toge 
ther  with  many  of  his  people,  was  engaged  in  his  corn- 
fields; on  seeing  the  strangers,  they  gave  the  dog-whoop, 
and  collected  at  the  house  at  which  we  had  stopped. 
They  were  all  tall  and  muscular  men,  well  built,  and  bet- 
ter looking  than  the  Fotawatomis  generally  are;  their 
countenance  was  agreeable,  and  denoted  none  of  that  seve- 
rity about  the  mouth  which  Volney  ascribes  to  those  whom 
he  saw.  The  chief  is  a  very  old  man  and  quite  bald ;  at 
the  time  he  approached  us  he  had  a  child-board  on  hi ; 
back,  in  which  he  carried  his  little  grandson.  Although 
advanced  in  years,  Kakakesha  had  none  of  the  decrepitude 
of  old  age ;  there  was  much  dignity  in  his  manner.  The 
women  were  all  very  ugly,  and  the  children  looked  like 
little  imps,  in  whose  countenance,  and  apparently  deformed 
bodies,  we  could  scarcely  discover  the  embryo  of  men  as 
tall  and  elegant  as  those  who  stood  before  us.  Most  of  their 
youth  had  gone  out  on  a  hunting  excursion.  The  men  whom 
we  saw  were  aliuCot  naked,  having  no  other  garment  than 
the  bree^'Cloth,  but  as  we  drew  near  them  they  gathered 
up  their  blankets;  the  women  had  a  sort  of  short-gown  and 
a  blanket ;  the  children  ran  about  naked,  with  no  other  ap- 
pendage than  a  belt  round  their  loins.  It  is  curious  to  ob- 
serve that  all  Indians,  whether  old  or  young,  wear  a  belt, 
even  when  they  have  nothing  to  attach  to  it;  and  the  chil- 
dren, who  seldom  assume  the  breech-cloth  until  they  at- 


SOUBCE    OP   ST.    PET^Er's   RIVER. 


179 


,  (little  bend,) 
K-ishwake.   It 
liich  was  com- 
is  there  were 
s  chiefly  inha- 
is  who  have  in- 
lodge  of  the 
V.)    He,  toge^ 
id  in  his  corn- 
he  dog-whoop, 
.  had  stopped, 
built,  and  bet- 
ally  are;  their 
meof  thatseve- 
s  to  those  whom 
I  quite  bald-,  at 
Id-board  on  hi. 
son.    Although 
the  decrepitude 
manner.    The 
ren  looked  like 
rently  deformed 
tbryo  of  men  as 
is.  Most  of  their 
The  men  whom 
er  garment  than 
m  they  gathered 
short-gown  and 
ith  no  other  ap- 
is curious  to  ob- 
ng,  wear  a  belt, 
if,  and  thechil- 
ih  until  they  at- 


tain the  age  of  puberty,  have  all  a  belt  tied  round  them, 
as  soon  as  they  can  run  about  The  house,  which  we  visit- 
ed, was  about  twenty  feet  long  by  fifteen  wide,  and  full 
twelve  feet  high  at  its  centre.  Seen  from  a  distance,  it  re- 
sembled a  log-house ;  b"t  on  approaching  we  discovered  it 
to  be  formed  of  bark,  secured  to  a  frame  made  of  poles, 
and  covered  with  the  same  material.  It  had  the  appear- 
ance of  being  very  comfortable.  The  fire  was  made  in  the 
middle  of  the  house ;  two  sides  of  the  interior  were  occupied 
with  a  frame,  three  feet  high  and  four  or  five  feet  wide, 
which  was  covered  with  blankets,  skins,  &c.  and  on  these  the 
inmates  sleep  and  eat;  upon  these  we  were  invited  to  sit 
down.  There  is  no  sign  of  partition,  or  of  any  thing  that 
can  serve  as  a  skreen  to  separate  or  divide  one  part  of  the 
family  from  another.  A  woman  who  was  sick,  lay  in 
the  lodge  exposed  to  view,  until  the  child,  which  was  taken 
from  the  chief's  back,  and  which  was  her's,  was  handed 
over  naked  to  her.  Whether  from  this  circumstance,  or 
to  avoid  the  curious  glances  of  some  of  our  party,  who  ap- 
peared to  be  watching  the  sick  woman's  motions,  we  know 
not,  but  a  blanket  was  soon  suspended  in  order  to  conceal 
the  patient  from  view. 

The  disposition  of  these  Indians  was  friendly.  The  ob- 
ject of  the  expedition  was  explained  to  them,  to  which 
they  made  no  reply,  but  the  chief  directed  his  squaw,  who 
was  a  very  fleshy  woman,  to  give  us  some  maple  sugar  in 
return  for  the  tobacco  we  had  presented  him ;  he  expressed 
his  regret  at  having  no  fi*esh  meat  to  give  us ;  but  added, 
that  if  his  hunters  returned  that  evening  with  meat,  he 
would  send  some  to  our  camp.  We  were  a  little  shocked 
at  their  familiar  disposition,  which  we  at  first  mistook  for 
intentional  impudence ;  they  all  collected  round  us,  took 
our  guns,  and  began  to  examine  them  with  care,  appeared 


'WWW 


^2S'  i',i  4 , 


■i  >  'i 


180 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  vrrr-- 


to  be  highly  pleased  with  the  double-barrelled  guns  of 
some  of  the  gentlemen  of  our  party ;  one  of  them  even 
drew  Mr.  Say's  hunting  knife  from  the  sheath,  and  after 
having  examined  it,  returned  it ;  he  then  took  Mr.  Say's 
hat,  which  was  a  white  beaver  one,  and  after  having  also 
examined  this  with  care,  tried  it  on  his  own  head.  All  this, 
however,  appeared  to  proceed  rather  from  childish  cu- 
riosity than  from  any  intention  to  give  oflfence.  After 
some  time,  they  began  to  beg  for  bacon,  which  soon  com- 
pelled us  to  leave  them. 

In  order  to  avoid  all  further  importunity,  we  tk'avelled 
ten  miles  before  night,  and  encamped  on  a  fine  piece  of  level 
ground,  which  was  watered  by  a  small  stream  that  discharg- 
ed itself  three  miles  below  into  the  Kishwake.  The  ther- 
mometer was  observed,  at  six  o'clock,  P.  M.  to  be  at  eighty- 
two  degrees  in  the  shade,  but  no  inconvenience  was  felt 
from  the  heat,  owing  to  a  fine  westerly  breeze  which  pre- 
vailed during  the  day. 

On  the  14th  of  July,  the  party  reached  Rock  river, 
which  is  the  most  important  tributary  of  the  Mississippi, 
between  the  Illinois  and  the  Wbconsan.  Rock  river  is 
termed,  in  the  languages  derived  from  the  Algonquin, 
Sln-sS-p^,  and  in  the  Winnebago,  Wi-r6-8h&-D&-gr4,  both 
which  names  have  the  same  signification  as  the  Eng- 
lish term.  It  forms  the  division  between  the  hunting 
grounds  claimed  by  the  Potawatomis,  on  the  eastern  side, 
and  those  of  the  Sauks,  Foxes,  and  Winnebagoes  on 
the  west  At  the  place  where  we  crossed  the  river, 
it  was  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  wide;  and  its 
depth  was  such  that  it  could  not  be  fordc'^.  at  that  time, 
though  we  were  informed  that  it  is  customary  for  horses 
loaded  with  furs,  to  cross  it  without  difficulty.  We  •*  ere 
ferried  o^^er  in  a  small  canoe,  sent  for  u&  from  an  Indian 


SOURCE    OF   ST.    F£T£R'S    RIVER. 


ISI 


village  in  the  vicinity.  We  crossed  Rock  river  just  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Kishwake,  the  same  stream  which  we 
had  passed  the  day  previous,  but  which,  from  its  great  in- 
crease, we  scarcely  recognised,  when  we  saw  it  three  miles 
above  its  mouth,  where  we  were  again  obliged  to  cross  it. 
Opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kishwake  there  is  a  large 
island  in  Rock  river.  At  the  lower  crossing  of  the  Kish- 
wake, we  passed  through  an  Indian  village,  designated  by 
the  name  of  the  river,  and  which  is  inhabited  by  a  mixed 
race  of  Potawatomis,  Chippewas,  Ottawas,  Menomones,  &c. 
The  chief,  who  belongs  to  the  first  of  these  nations,  was 
away  at  the  time  we  were  there,  and  in  his  absence  we  saw 
ao  person  who  could  converse  with  us.  A  lad,  v/ho  was  in 
the  village,  and  who,  as  we  were  told,  was  the  son  of  the  late 
chief,  when  spoken  to,  made  no  answer,  but  seemed  to  be 
very  stupid ;  although  the  other  Indians  did  not  appear 
destitute  of  intelligence,  yet  not  one  of  them  could  converse 
with  us.  Tiiis  indeed  is  one  of  the  characteristics  of  Indians. 
The  business  of  receiving  and  replying  to  speeches  belongs 
to  the  chief,  it  is  one  of  his  proudest  prerogatives,  and  it  is 
one  in  which  he  chiefly  endeavours  to  excel ;  while  the 
other  Indians,  seemingtoconsideritasf^ocoacern  of  theirs, 
pay  no  attention  to  it,'and  are  always  at  a  loss,  when  spoken 
to  by  these  whom  they  are  accustomed  to  treat  with  re- 
spect or  with  regard ;  but  with  the  traders,  whom  they  ri- 
dicule, and  for  whom  they  openly  profess  the  most  mani- 
fest contempt,  they  will  join  in  conversation  very  freely 
and  familiarly.  After  having  crossed  Fock  river,  we  stop- 
ped to  dine  on  the  high  bank  which  confines  it  on  the  west 
side,  and  were  not  a  little  amused  at  the  apparent  delight 
with  which  the  little  Indian  boy,  who  had  brought  the  canoe 
to  us  from  Kishwake  village  up  Rock  river,  partook  of  the 
bread  and  bacon  which  we  gave  him ;  it  really  seemed  as 


-— -fS!f^=Sy!H5^*s--. 


183 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


■P: 


**■  J« 


•'  '1^ 


>^  »t 


though  it  were  the  most  delicate  food  that  he  had  ever 
tasted. 

The  valley  of  Rock  river  is  about  half  a  mile  wide  at 
this  place ;  it  is  utterly  destitute  of  rocks,  difiiering)  in  this 
respect,  very  much  from  the  characters  observed  higher 
up,  and  which  have  entitled  it  to  the  name  that  it  now 
bears.  We  could  not,  however,  asceitain  whether  the  rocks 
were  there  in  place,  or  merely  boulders.  We  had,  in  the 
course  of  the  morning,  observed  a  spot  where  the  lime- 
stone appeared  in  situ;  this  was  in  every  respect  similar  to 
that  found  near  Chicago.  The  boulders  and  pebbles  which, 
from  Chicago  to  Fox  river,  had  not  appeared  to  be  as  nu- 
merous as  in  some  other  parts  of  the  route,  were,  after  we 
had  seen  the  limestone  in  the  morning,  found  to  increase 
rapidly  in  number,  though  not  perhaps  in  size.  From  his 
former  observations  upon  the  country,  Major  Long  thought 
we  were  approaching  what  has  been  considered  the  lead 
formation  of  the  west,  and  this  was  confirmed  by  the  as- 
sertion of  our  guide,  that  much  lead  had  been  found  on 
some  of  the  tributaries  of  Rock  river,  where  it  is  worked, 
by  the  Indians,  in  small  quantities  for  their  own  use.  This 
induced  us  to  make  a  careful  examination  of  the  country, 
with  a  view  to  asceitain  whether  any  lead  ore  occurred 
upon  our  route,  and  if  it  did,  under  what  circumstances. 
We  met  v/ith  none ;  but  from  all  the  characters  observed 
in  the  country,  we  hesitate  not  in  considering  its  surface 
as  covered  by  an  ancient  alluvion,  the  alluvion  of  mountains 
of  the  Wernerian  school ;  and  in  which,  of  course,  if  any 
lead  should  be  foUi\d,  it  must  be  out  of  its  original  site. 
This  alluvion  consists  principally  of  a  bed  of  loose  and  un- 
cemented  pebbles,  varying  in  size  from  the  smallest  grain 
to  the  dimensions  of  an  apple,  and  interspersed  with  boul- 
ders, which  frequently  acquire  very  large  dimensions;  but 


r  " 


SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETER's   RIVER. 


183 


\e  had  ever 

nile  wide  at 
ering,  in  this 
erved  higher 
5  that  it  now 
Lher  the  rocks 
e  had,  in  the 
ere  the  lime- 
pect  similar  to 
ebbles  which, 
J  to  be  as  nu- 
vere,  after  we 
nd  to  increase 
ze.     From  his 
•Long  thought 
dered  the  lead 
ned  by  the  as- 
)een  found  on 
>  it  is  worked, 
own  use.  This 
the  country, 
ore  occurred 
circumstances, 
iters  observed 
Rng  it^  surface 
in  of  mountains 
course,  if  any 
original  site. 
,f  loose  and  un- 
smallest  grain 
'sed  with  boul- 
ismensions;  but 


these  do  not  appear  to  be  so  frequent  here,  whether  it  be 
because  they  are  buried  in,  and  concealed  by  the  pebbles, 
or  because  they  were  not  deposited  here,  we  had  no 
means  of  determining.  The  alluvion  appears  to  consist 
chiefly  of  the  detritus  of  primitive  rocks,  such  as  fragments 
of  quartz,  granite,  sienite,  &c.  but,  as  far  as  we  could  observe, 
without  any  trace  of  a  metalliferous  mineral.  There  are 
also  many  fragments  of  limestone,  interspersed  throughout 
the  mass.  Under  the  alluvion,  the  limestone  observed  in 
the  morning  probably  extends  to  a  great  distance.  From 
the  observations  which  we  have  been  able  to  make,  we 
believe  it  to  be  the  same  limestone  formation,  which  extends 
from  Piqua  to  Fort  St  Mary,  and  which  is  seen  near 
Fort  Wayne,  Chicago,  and  Rock  river.  Whether  it  be  the 
same  as  that  observed  further  east,  or  in  what  relation  it 
stands  to  it,  we  are  not  desirous  of  deciding  positively,  but 
we  believe  it  to  be  at  least  as  modern  as  that  found  above 
the  coal  formations  of  Wheeling  and  Zanesville,  and  per- 
haps more  so.  We  have  spoken  of  the  supposed  lead  for- 
mations of  Rock  river ;  not  having  visited  Dubuque's  lead 
mines,  or  those  in  the  state  of  Missouri,  it  would  be  impos- 
sible for  us  to  express  a  decided  opinion  upon  their  nature ; 
but  from  all  that  we  have  heard  on  the  subject,  as  well  as  from 
what  has  been  written  upon  these  lead  mines,  we  can 
scarcely  hesitate  in  considering  the  ore  as  being  equally 
out  of  place  there.  Whether  the  original  sites,  from  which 
it  has  been  detached,  are  still  to  be  found  in  the  vicinity, 
is  a  point  which  those  alone  who  have  seen  the  country 
are  competent  to  decide,  if  indeed  the  question  can  in  the 
present  state  of  science  be  resolved ;  the  authors  who  have 
written  upon  this  subject  have,  as  it  appears  to  us,  left  the 
question  open ;  for  while  they  assert  that  the  lead  is  found 
in  clay,  they  appe^  to  us  desirous  to  convey,  at  all  times. 


1.  w^ 


^     ;  ■■^ 


t!:'       ';i:^ 


■"'"7  '  '"■■fly — '^"^TT'' 


184 


IV,' EXPEDITION  TO   THE  ^ -*<** 


the  impression  that  it  is  in  place,  as  we  are  informed  that 
if  is  found  in  detached  pieces  and  solid  masses,  in  veins 
and  beds  in  red  clay,  and  accompanied  by  sulphurate 
(sulphate?)  of  barytes,  calcareous  spar,  blende,  iron  py- 
rites, and  quartz."*  Now,  that  all  the  indications  men- 
tioned by  those  who  have  seen  these  mines,  justify  a  be- 
lief that  the  lead  is  not  in  its  original  site,  we  consider  as 
satisfactorily  proved.  That  the  lead  ore  as  well  as  the  ac- 
companying minerals,  must  be  out  of  place,  is  equally  ap- 
parent, from  the  circumstance,  that  while  the  clay  is  said 
to  repose  upon  the  limestone,  the  ore  is  not  stated  to  have 
ever  been  worked  in  this  rock.  We  are  told,  that  "  the 
greatest  proportion  of  lead  ore  is,  however,  found  imbed- 
ded in,  and  accompanied  by,  the  sulphate  of  baryles  resting 
in  a  thick  stratum  of  marly  clay,  bottomed  on  limestone 
rock.  The  rook  is  invariably  struck  at  a  depth  of  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  feet,  and  puts  a  stop  to  the  progress  of  the 
miner  in  a  common  way.  To  go  further,  it  is  necessary  to 
drill  or  blast,  and  this  creates  an  expense  which  the  gene- 
rality of  diggers  are  unwilling  to  incur,  if  not  unable  to  sup- 
port "t  Again,  we  find  "  in  digging  down  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet,  the  rock  is  generally  struck;  and  as  the 
tigns  of  ore  generally  give  out  on  coming  to  the  rock, 
many  of  the  pits  are  carried  no  further,  "t  Finally,  in 
his  visit  to  Dubuque's  lead  mine?;,  performed  in  the  year 
1820,  Mi\  Schoolcraft  observed,  that  the  ore  "  had  been 
chiefly  explored  in  alluvial  soil;*'  though  he  at  the  same 
time  states,  that "  it  generally  occurs  in  beds  or  veins."§ 
From  the  specimens  which  we  have  seen,  as  well  as  from 

•  View  of  the  Lead  Mines  of  Missouri.  New  York,  1819.  p.  67. 

,  Ibid,  p.  69.  i  Ibid,  p.  108. 

4  Schoolcraft's  Narratire  Journal  of  Travels,  8tc.  p.  344. 


^..kHu' 


t  Lti 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  Peter's  river. 


185 


pe  informed  that 
nasses,  in  veins 
\  by  sulphurate 
jlende,  iron  py- 
indications  men- 
les,  justify  a  be- 
I,  we  consider  as 
as  well  as  the  ac- 
ice,  is  equally  ap- 
le  the  clay  is  said 
not  stated  to  have 
tre  told,  that  "  the 
ver,  found  imbed- 
}  of  barytes  resting 
tned  on  limestone 
I  depth  of  from  fif- 
he  progress  of  the 
•,  it  is  necessary  to 
ie  which  the  gene- 

notunable  to  sup- 
down  from  fifteen 
(truck;  and  as  the 
»ming  to  the  rock, 
,er."t    Finally,  in 
formed  in  the  year 
the  ore  "  had  been 
►ugh  he  at  the  same 
n  beds  or  veins."§ 

en,  as  well  as  from 

York,  1819.  p.  67. 
I,  &.C.  p.  344. 


all  that  we  have  heard  and  read,  we  cannot  hesitate  in  as- 
serting it  as  our  opinion,  that  no  lead  has  as  yet  been  dis- 
covered on  the  Merrimeg  or  Mississippi  in  a  metalliferous 
limestone;*  but  that,  wherever  it  has  been  found,  it  has  al- 
ways been  in  an  alluvion,  and  never  in  regular  veins  cr 
beds,  nor  even  in  masses,  which  might  be  considered 
as  coeval  with  the  substances  in  which  they  are  im- 
bedded. 

On  both  banks  of  the  Kishwake^  not  far  from  its  mouth, 
there  are  many  mounds  in  every  respect  sir^ilar  to  those 
met  with  on  Pox  river ;  but  scattered  along  the  bank  with- 
out any  apparent  order.  Mr.  Say  counted  upwards  of 
thirty  of  these  mounds.  It  is  probable  that  they  were  for- 
merly the  cemeteries  of  a  large  Indian  population  which 
resided  along  the  banks  of  the  Kishwake,  and  which  had 
perhaps  its  principal  village  at  the  beautiful  confluence  of 
this  stream  with  Rock  river. 

In  travelling  over  a  prairie  country  the  party  were  often 
obliged  to  lengthen  or  shorten  their  day's  journey,  in  or- 
der to  accommodate  themselves  to  the  scarcity  of  water 
aad  wood.  The  afternoon  of  the  14th  of  June  we  en- 
camped at  three  o'clock,  as  the  distance  to  the  next  camp- 
ing ground  would  have  led  us  too  far  into  the  evening. 
The  afternoon  was  employed  in  taking  observations  for 
longitude,  and  in  making  such  repairs  and  alterations  in 

*  By  metalliferoui  limestone,  we  allude  to  that  in  which  the  lead- 
mines  of  Cumberland  and  Derbyshire  in  England,  of  Vedrin  in  Bel- 
gium, &c.  are  found.  This  limestone  is  by  most  geologists  considered  as 
older  than  the  coal,  and  probably  in  many  instances  connected  with 
transition  formations;  according  to  Conybeare  and  Phillips,  it  is 
placed,  under  the  name  of  mountain  limestone,  between  the  old  red 
sandstone  formation  arid  the  coal  measures.  (Vide  Geology  of  Eng- 
land and  Wales,  London,  1822,  part  1,  plate,  fig.  3.) 

Vol.  I.  24 


186 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


our  travelling  equipage  a^  had  become  necessary.  Our 
horses'  backs  had  been  chafed  by  the  saddle,  notwithstand- 
ing all  the  care  taken  to  keep  them  in  a  sound  state,  which 
was  dictated  not  only  by  humanity,  but  also  by  a  provi- 
dent attention  to  our  own  interest ;  for  very  little  experi- 
ence is  required  to  satisfy  a  traveller  that  much  of  his  com- 
fort and  expedition,  on  such  a  journey  as  ours,  depends  up- 
on the  circumstance  of  his  horse's  back  not  being  galled, 
as  it  otherwise  worries  and  tires  the  animal  before  he  has 
performed  much  work.  For  the  information  of  other  tra- 
vellers, we  may  mention,  that  after  having  tried  many  ap- 
plications, we  have  found  none  that  succeeded  so  well  as 
white  lead  moistened  with  milk,  as  long  as  this  could  be 
procured ;  after  we  had  left  the  settlements,  sweet  oil  was 
used  as  a  substitute  for  milk ;  whenever  the  application 
was  made  in  the  early  stage  of  the  wound  we  have  found 
it  to  be  very  effectual.  It  is  likewise  a  convenient  one 
to  carry  on  an  expedition,  as  a  couple  of  ounces  of  white 
lead  sufficed  for  the  whole  of  our  party  during  more 
than  a  month. 

The  succeeding  morning  the  weather  was  very  fair,  and 
the  party  continued  its  course  over  fine  undulating  prairies, 
expanded  in  every  direction  so  as  to  appear  in  some  cases 
unbounded  by  woods.  The  only  defect  which  we  ob- 
served in  the  country  between  Chicago  and  the  Missis- 
sippi is  the  scarcity  of  wood,  which  is  more  seriously  felt 
on  the  west  side  of  Rock  river,  than  to  the  east  of  it  This 
will  perhaps  be  the  principal  difficulty  in  settling  the  coun- 
try ;  otherwise  the  land  is  good,  not  hilly,  sufficiently  water- 
ed, and  would  we  doubt  not  prove  productive  if  well  worked. 
Limestone  is  frequently  to  be  met  with,  even  west  of  Rock 
river;  in  other  places  the  soil  is  underlaid  with  pebbles 
of  white  hornstone ;  the  boulders  are  not  sufficiently  abun- 


5K)URCE   OF  ST.   PETER^S  RIVEB. 


187 


dant  to  prove  injurious  to  agriculture ;  we  observed  as  a 
distinction  between  those  seen  within  the  two  last  days, 
and  those  met  with  east  of  Rock  river,  that  the  for- 
mer contain  principally  hornblende  instead  of  mica  in  their 
composition,  while  the  boulders  near  Lake  Michigan  were 
chiefly  granitic.  The  rock,  which  has  given  rise  to  the 
homblendic  boulders,  is  one  of  a  peculiar  and  interest- 
ing nature ;  it  differs  from  sienite  by  the  presence  of  quartz, 
from  granite  by  the  substitution  of  hornblende  for  mica.  This 
rock  has  not  received  much  attention  from  European  authors ; 
it  does  not  appear  to  occupy  a  very  important  rank  in  the  ge- 
ology of  Europe,  while  on  the  contrary  it  is  very  abundant 
in  North  America.  Those,  who  are  conversant  witli  the 
mineralogy  of  New  Jersey,  know  that  it  constitutes  most 
of  the  primitive  rocks  which  are  found  in  West  Jersey, 
and  which  have  been  described  either  as  granite  ^  r  sienite ; 
however  extensive  that  depositc  may  be,  it  bears  no  com- 
parison to  the  extensive  formation  of  this  rock,  which  we 
shall  have  occasion  hereafter  to  describe,  and  from  which 
the  fragments  which  constitute  the  boulders  found  in  Illi- 
nois, Indiana,  Ohio,  &c.  have,  as  we  believe,  been  de- 
tached. 

After  travelling  eighteen  miles,  we  reached  a  small  stream, 
designated  under  the  name  of  P£k-t&n-n6iis,  a  diminutive  of 
Pikt&nnAii,*  a  neighbouring  stream  into  which  it  discharges 
itself  a  few  miles  below.  The  meaning  of  this  last  in 
the  Sauk  language  is  muddy ,  and  it  is  remarkable  that  the 


*  As  we  hftve  had  frequent  opportunities  of  observing  a  nasal  termi- 
nation in  Indian  words,  belonging  both  to  the  Sauk,  Dacota,  and  other 
languages,  we  have  adopted  the  sign  (fi)  to  dengnate  this  sound,  which 
is  equivalent  to  the  nasal  termination  of  the  French  language,  thus  in 
the  word  Pektannon,  the  last  syllable  is  pronounced  by  the  Indians, 
exactly  as  the  word  rum  is  by  the  French. 


168 


EXPEDITION   TO   TH» 


''   ':  4  t 


same  name  has  been  applied  to  the  Missouri  by  the  Sauks. 
Our  guide  informed  us  that  it  was  very  common  for  the 
Sauks  to  form  a  diminutive  of  a  word,  by  the  addition  of  a 
hissing  sound  at  the  end,  as  in  the  above-mentioned  in- 
stance. Observing  that  Le  Sellier  seemed  to  have  gone 
beyond  the  limits  of  the  country  with  which  he  was  ac- 
quainted, Major  Long  thought  it  would  be  desirable  to  en- 
deavour to  procure  an  Indian,  as  a  guide  to  Prairie  du  Chien ; 
and  as  we  were  in  the  vicinity  ofan  Indian  village,  Le  Sellier 
was  sent  ahead,  to  request  one  of  the  men  to  accompany  us. 
llie  village  to  which  he  went  was  situated  on  the  main 
stream,  about  three  miles  from  the  place  where  we  had 
halted  for  dinner  on  the  Pektannons;  it  consisted  of 
seven  permanent  and  three  tempoitiry  lodges,  inhabited 
principally  by  Sauks,  FoXv«»s.  Winnebagoes,  Menomones, 
and  Potawatomis.  Their  chief  is  a  Sauk ;  he  was  absent, 
but  we  saw  his  elder  brother,  whom  we  engaged  to  accom- 
pany us  to  Prairie  du  Chien.  His  name  was  W^AnA'b^id 
N&m6'£t&)  (spinning  top,)  the  chief's  name  was  W^ib^'tfi'j^ic, 
(white  cedar.)  We  visited  the  inside  of  their  bark  lodges, 
which  were  very  comfortable ;  the  number  of  men  appear 
ed  to  us  much  greater  than  that  of  women  in  the  village. 
Being  aware  of  our  approach,  from  the  information  receiv- 
ed through  Le  Sellier,  they  had  manifested  their  friendly 
disposition  by  hoisting  flags,  or  white  rags,  all  around 
their  village  and,  among  others,  three  white  flags  hung 
from  the  head  and  arms  of  a  large  cross,  rudely  cut  out, 
which  marked  the  grave  of  some  departed  white  man. 
Their  behaviour  was  less  familiar  than  that  of  the  Indians 
whom  we  had  last  met  with ;  but  as  they  evinced  the  same 
curiosity  to  examine  our  arms,  we  were  led  to  ascribe  their 
greater  reserve,  to  the  admonition  given  that  morning  to 
the  Frenchman,  that  the  familiar  manner  with  which  he  be- 


SOURCE    OF   ST.    PETER's    RIVER. 


189 


Iiaved  towards  them,  must  be  discontinued  in  our  presence, 
as  to  that  we  ascribed  their  forwardness.  The  men  of  this 
village  were  distinfraished  from  those  observed  in  other 
places,  by  their  unusually  dark  and  expressive  eyes,  the 
playful  smile  of  their  mouth,  and  their  well-formed  nose. 
We  found  them  very  short  of  provisions ;  they  offered  us, 
however,  a  bowlful  of  maize,  which  was  very  acceptable, 
as  our  bread-corn  had  been  consumed.  One  of  the  party 
observed  in  the  lodge  a  large  basket,  full  of  acorns  intend- 
ed no  doubt  for  food.  We  proceeded  that  afternoon  a  few 
miles  further,  and  encamped  on  a  beautiful  spot  near  the 
Pektannon ;  it  was  on  the  verge  of  a  fine  wood.  The  ad- 
joining prairie  afforded  our  horses  the  finest  pasture  that 
could  be  wished  for ;  an  attempt  to  fish  was  made,  but  it 
proved  unsuccessful.  It  does  not  seem  that  these  rivers 
abound  in  fish,  and  the  Indians  place  no  dependence  upon 
the  produce  of  the  fishery  for  their  support  While  en- 
camped this  evening,  we  were  visited  by  several  Indians, 
who  came  from  the  village,  and  who  behaved  themselves 
in  a  very  becoming  manner.  In  order  to  compare  the  lan- 
guage of  the  Winnebagoes,  as  spoken  here,  with  that  con- 
tained in  the  vocabulary  obtained  by  Major  Long  in  the 
year  1817,  and  which  is  recorded  in  the  "  Account  of  an 
Expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,"  (vol.  2,  p.  Ixxxvi.) 
we  read  to  one  of  these  Indians,  who  was  a  Winnebago, 
the  words  as  published  in  the  vocabulary,  with  a  view  to 
ascertain  whether  or  not  he  understood  them ;  the  attempt 
was  rather  a  difficult  one,  as  he  had  to  convey  the  mean- 
ing of  the  Winnebago  term  in  the  Sauk  language  to  Le 
Sellier,  who  translated  it  into  French  to  one  of  the  party 
by  whom  it  was  reduced  into  English.  The  result  of 
this  threefold  translation  was,  however,  that  he  recog- 
nised, without  hesitation,  about  one-third  of  the  words ; 


190 


KXPEDITION  TO  THC      m 


im 


f:l"j: 


the  meaning  of  the  remainder,  which  he  did  not  readily 
understand,  being  conveyed  to  him  through  the  Sauk  lan- 
guage, he  repeated  aboutone-half  of  them  with  a  slight  va- 
riation, frequently  no  other  than  the  addition  of  a  termina- 
tion in  ra,  which  appeared  to  be  a  sort  of  dialect  Some  of 
the  words  he  seemed  not  to  recognise  at  all,  even  after  their 
supposed  meaning  had  been  explained  to  him  through  the 
interpreter. 

Major  Long,  whose  health  had  been  somewhat  impaired 
for  a  few  days  previous,  was  so  severely  aflected,  on  the 
15th,  with  fever  and  sick  stomach,  that  we  began  to  ap- 
prehend that  his  indisposition  would  prove  a  serious  one, 
but  the  timely  application  of  medical  assistance  fortunately 
relieved  him. 

Wennebea,  of  whom  we  iiave  preserved  a  very  good 
likeness,  taken  by  Mr.  Seymour,  (plate  III.  middle  figure,) 
is  a  young  and  good  looking  Indian,  whose  face  denotes 
more  cheerfulness  than  is  generally  observed  in  the  coun- 
tenance of  man  in  the  savage  life.  He  seems  to  be  of  a 
lively,  cheerful  disposition,  judging  from  the  laughter 
which  frequently  animated  his  conversation  with  Le  Sel- 
lier;  to  us  he  was  always  uniformly  polite  and  obliging. 
>His  dress  consisted,  as  usual  with  the  Indians  of  this  coun- 
try, of  a  blanket  thrown  over  his  shoulders,  and  reaching 
to  his  ankles;  a  breech-cloth  of  blue  broad-cloth ;  bu«.^kin 
leggings  and  moccassins  of  the  same  material.  The  leg- 
gings are  very  simila*  to  a  Chinese  garment  that  supplies 
the  place  of  pantaloons;  they  reach  up  to  the  hips,  covering 
the  whole  limb,  and  are  secured  to  thongs  tied  to  a  leather 
belt  around  the  waist  Garters,  generally  very  much  orna- 
mented with  porcupine  quills,  beads,  and  other  fanciful  ar- 
ticles, support  the  leggings  immediately  below  the  knee. 
His  pipe  was  stuck  into  the  plaited  hair  which  he  wore  on 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  riveji. 


191 


[  not  readily 
the  Sauk  lan- 
thasligMva- 
i  of  a  termina- 
ilect  Some  01 
ven  after  their 
m  through  the 

jwhat  impaired 
iflected,  on  the 
5  began  to  ap- 
1  a  serious  one, 
ance  fortunately 

ed  a  very  good 
[.middle  figure,) 
lose  face  denotes 
ed  in  the  coun- 
seemstobeofa 
m  the  laughter 
on  withLeSel- 
te  and  obliging, 
iansofthiscoun- 

irs,  and  reaching 
-cloth;  bu.^kin 

:erial.    The  leg- 
;nt  that  supplies 
he  hips,  covering 
tied  to  a  leather 
very  much  orna- 
other  fanciful  ar- 
below  tlie  knee, 
hichheworeon 


the  crown  of  his  head.  He  was  provided  with  a  gun,  of 
the  kind  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Mackinaw  gun,  with 
a  spare  ramrod,  shot-pouch,  &c.  Wennebea  rode  a  little  bay 
mare,  with  a  long  untrimmed  tail ;  she  was  so  sn  i  that  his 
legs  appeared  almost  to  sweep  the  ground  as  he  travelled 
over  the  prairie ;  but  the  little  animal  was  a  fiery  one,  pro- 
bably about  four  years  old ;  her  growth  had  doubtless  been 
stinted  by  too  early  an  application  to  labour.  We  could 
not  help,  frequently,  expressing  our  admiration  at  the  grace- 
ful  and  easy  manner  in  which  this  man  rode  across  the 
plain,  occasionally  allowing  his  blanket  to  drop  upon  his 
horse's  back,  and  displaying  the  stout  and  symmetric 
shoulders  and  chest,  which  generally  characterize  man 
when  in  a  state  of  nature,  and  unimpaired  by  the  effemi- 
nating habits  and  vices  of  civilized  life.  We  scarcely  re- 
cognised our  guide  a  few  days  afterwards,  when  we  saw 
him  with  a  calico  shirt,  which  he  had  borrowed  from  Le 
Sellier  and  which  concealed  his  well-formed  limbs;  on  in- 
quiring into  the  cause  of  this  addition  to  his  usual  costume, 
we  were  told,  that  the  sun  being  very  hot  on  the  prairie, 
he  had  accepted  the  offer  to  protect  his  shoulders,  against 
its  influence,  by  means  of  a  shirt.  This  proves  how  ready 
these  Indians  are  to  abandon  their  natural  manners,  and 
to  assume  the  artificial  ones  of  civilized  man.  Wennebea 
wore  this  garment  at  first  with  an  apparent  air  of  ostentation, 
which  confirmed  us  in  our  opinion,  that  the  Indian  is  no 
wiser  than  the  white  man  in  this  respect,  often  priding 
himself  upon  the  acquisition  of  a  garment,  which  detracts 
from,  rather  than  adds  to,  his  personal  appearance.  He 
seemed  to  be  well  acquainted  virith  the  country,  and 
followed  no  track  across  the  prairie ;  but  his  course  was 
directed  by  landmarks,  such  as  hills,  woods,  &c.  He 
appeared  to  guide  himself,  likewise,  by  the  situation  of  the 


192 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


1 1  )i  <•! 


sun  in  the  heavens ;  but  we  were  satisfied,  on  more  than  one 
occasion,  of  the  inaccuracy  of  those  who  suppose  that  an  In- 
dian has  an  infallible  method  of  discovering,  at  all  times,  the 
direction  in  which  he  wishes  to  travel,  and  that  he  never  can 
be  lost  His  habits  of  observation,  permit  him,  it  is  true,  to 
discover  signs,  which  would  probably  escape  the  attention 
of  the  less  experienced  white  man.  Thus,  if  the  sun  be 
obscured,  his  keen  eye  will  sometimes  detect,  from  habit, 
its  place  in  the  heavens ;  at  other  times,  it  is  said  that  he 
can,  by  close  inspection,  discover  very  faint  shadows, 
which  would  elude  the  observation  of  a  less  practised  eye. 
When  these  characters  fail,  he  may,  in  a  forest,  point 
with  certainty  to  the  north  from  the  circumstance,  that 
the  moss  grows  more  abundantly  upon  that  side  of  a  tree 
than  upon  the  others.  But  if  left  on  a  prairie,  at  a  dis- 
tance from  trees,  when  the  heavens  are  deeply  overclouded, 
or  during  the  prevalence  of  a  dense  fog,  the  Indian,  as  well 
as  the  white  man,  will  often  be  unable  to  direct  himself 
properly.  We  frequently  observed  during  the  march,  that 
he  skreened  his  eyes  with  his  hands,  and  seemed  to  study 
very  attentively  the  distant  points  of  woods  and  the  sur- 
rounding prairie,  whether  to  make  sure  of  the  proper 
route,  or  to  discover  signs  of  game  or  enemies,  we  know 
not 

Wennebea  led  us  in  a  general  north-westerly  direction, 
at  firut  through  thin  woods,  which  gradually  disappeared, 
their  place  being  supplied  by  an  extensive  and  appa- 
rently boundless  prairie,  which  occupied  us  a  whole  day 
in  crossing  it  The  woods  consisted  of  small  oaks  with- 
out undergrowth ;  the  prairie,  upon  which  we  were  travel- 
ling, was  undulated,  and  extended  itself  along  the  base  of 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  streams  tributary  to  the 
Mississippi  and  those  v  hich  fall  into  Rock  river.    This 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER'S  BIVEB. 


193 


>re  than  one 
B  that  an  In- 
11  times,  the 
lie  never  can 
it  is  true,  to 
the  attention 
f  the  sun  be 
,  from  habit, 

said  that  he 
int  shadows, 
tractised  eye. 
forest,  point 
rnstance,  that 
side  of  a  tree 
trie,  at  a  dis- 
r  overclouded, 
ndian,  as  well 
lirect  himself 
le  march,  that 
jmed  to  study 

and  the  sur- 
)f  the  proper 
lies,  we  know 

irly  direction, 
disappeared, 
ive  and  appa- 
s  a  whole  day 
ill  oaks  with- 
re  were  travel- 
ng  the  base  of 
butary  to  the 
river.    This 


ridge  stretched  on  our  left,  in  a  direction  nearly  parallel  to 
our  general  course ;  it  appeared  to  be  in  some  places  from 
one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and  from 
six  to  eight  miles  distant  Soon  after  we  entered  the 
prairie,  a  deer  crossed  our  route  about  two  miles  ahead  of 
us ;  Wennebea  started  in  pursuit,  but  returned  in  the  course 
of  an  hour,  after  a  fruitless  and  fatiguing  chace.  He 
brought  back,  however,  a  curlew,  (Numenius  longirostris,)  a 
bird  of  which  we  occasionally  roused  a  pair  or  two.  We 
frequently  observed  the  majestic  sand-hill  crane,  (Grus 
Canadensis,)  striding  across  the  prairie.  This  animal,  if 
taken  young,  can,  it  is  said,  be  domesticated  with  ease.  Two 
or  three  of  them  were  kept  last  season  at  Chicago,  being  al- 
lowed to  pass  freely  before  the  sentinels ;  but  they  never 
failed  to  return  to  their  nests.  We  also  saw  on  the  prairie  the 
fine  swallow-tailed  Hawk,  (Falco  [Milvus]  furcatus,)  flying 
over.  us.  Our  guide  showed  us  a  spot  where  an  action  had 
been  fought,  about  sixty  or  seventy  years  ago,  between  the 
Sauks  and  the  Peoras ;  the  former  were  successful  and  lost 
but  one  man,  while  they  killed  ten  of  the  enemy.  This 
took  place  on  an  elevated  hill,  commanding  an  extensive 
view  of  the  prairie,  and  crowned  with  a  forest  in  which  the 
engagement  is  said  to  have  taken  place. 

The  country  becomes  interspersed  with  hills,  which  con- 
tribute to  vary  the  scenery ;  among  others  which  were  very 
distinct,  we  observed  two,  rising  close  alongside  of  each 
other,  forming  two  twin  peaks  insulated  in  the  midst  of  the 
prairie;  the  distance  between  the  two  being  about  one  and 
a  quarter  mile  in  an  east  and  west  direction;  they 
are  visible  for  upwards  of  thirty  miles,  and  constitute 
one  of  the  best  landmarks  we  have  ever  seen.  They 
are  called  in  the  Sauk  language  E'n-n^fi-sh^A-tfi'-n^A,  (which 
signifies  the  two  mountains  being  composed  of  £'n-n'£s, 

Vol.  I.  25 


191 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


two,  and   '6-t5'-n'6,  hills.)     Our  guide  informed  us  that 
the  hill  marked  on  the  maps  as  the  Smoky-hill,  ( Mon- 
tague   qui  bouccane  of   the   French,)    lay   at   a   long 
day's  march,  (about  thirty   miles,)   in  a  north-easterly 
course  from  our  noon  encampment  of  the  16th.    This  hill 
has  received  from  the  Indians  the  appellation  of  M6-ch^- 
w^d-kii'-nHn,  (Smoky  mountain,)  from  the  circumstance 
of  its  summit  being  generally  enveloped  with  a  cloud  or  fog, 
and,  as  we  were  told,  not  from  any  tradition  of  smok*»  having 
ever  issued  from  it.     To  the  left  a  point  of  highland  is  in 
sight,  which  is  said  to  be  at  the  mouth  of  the  M68ch&^k6, 
(always  ^11,)  a  stream  that  falls  into  the  Mississippi.    In 
the  evening  we  encamped  oh  the  left  bank  of  the  W&ssi- 
m6n,  a  beautiful  tributary  of  the  Pektannon  ;  it  is  called  af- 
ter an  Indian  chief  of  that  nai  e,  who  resided  on  its  banks; 
it  means,  in   the   Sauk  language,  lightning.     On   the 
banks  of  this  stream  we  observed  the  limestone  in  place, 
forming  cliffs  of  about  fifty  feet  in  height;  the  rock  is  in 
very  distinct  horizontal  stratification;  its  structure  is  in 
many  parts  crystalline,  or  perhaps  it  may  more  properly  be 
called  gravelly  and  sandy ;  it  contains  many  cells  or  cavities, 
some  of  which  are  filled  with  crystallizations  of  carbonate  of 
lime ;  much  white  homstone  appears  disseminated  through- 
out the  mass.  The  hornstone  is  sometimes  seen  to  constitute 
small  beds  or  layers  from  one  to  three  or  four  inches  in 
thickness,  which  are  continued  for  several  feet  in  length; 
frequently  also  appearing  under  the  form  of  flattened  ir- 
regular nodules,  lying  in  an  almost  continuous  line  for  a 
considerable  distance,  and  with  their  long  or  flattened 
side  parallel  to  the  stratification ;  resembling  in  this  respect 
the  disposition  of  the  clay-iron  stone  in  the  slaty  strata 
that  accompany  the  bituminous  coal.     Organic  remains 
are  by  no  means  uncommon,  though  they  are  not  found  as 
abundantly  as  in  some  other  spots  of  our  route ;  they  consist 


SOURCE    OF   ST.    PETER's   RIVER. 


195 


of  Terebratulites,  Encrinites,  and  a  Madreporite,  (Linn6;) 
the  true  nature  of  the  last  of  these  could  not  be  ascer- 
tained without  a  comparison  of  chai'acters,  which  we  were 
unible  to  make  on  the  spot,  and  which  the  loss  of  all  the 
specimens  collected  between  Fort  Wayne  and  Fort  St 
Anthony  has  prevented  Mr.  Say  from  making  since  ;  the 
rock  is  of  a  grayish-yellow  colour,  with  a  loose  structure. 
We  are  aware  that  some  of  the  characters,  which  we  have 
given  of  this  rock,  might  lead  to  the  opinion  that  it  resem- 
bles the  mountain  or  carboniferous  limestone  of  Messrs. 
Conybeare  and  Phillips ;  and  consequently  that  it  is  the 
same  as  the  metalliferous  limestone  of  other  geologists ; 
but  we  would  consider  this  union  as  a  very  hasty,  not  to 
say,  an  incorrect  one.  Although  its  cavernous  nature,  its 
indications  of  crystallization,  and  its  oi^nic  remains,  pre- 
sent an  apparent  correspondence  with  those  of  that  lime- 
stone, as  described  by  the  Rev.  W.  D.  Conybeare,  in  the 
excellent  "  Outlines  of  the  Geology  of  England  and 
Wales,"  (Part  I.  p.  353.)  we  incline  to  the  opinion  that 
this  rock  is  of  a  much  later  formation  ;  we  believe  it  to  be 
connected  with  a  limestone  which  was  subsequently  ob- 
served on  the  Mississippi,  between  Prairie  du  Chien  and 
St  Anthony,  and  in  which  we  observed  an  oolite  and  a  pulve- 
rulent limestone  similar  to  the  calcareous  ashes  described  by 
Mr.  Freiesleben  in  his  elaborate  account  of  the  formations 
of  Thuringen.  If  we  compare  the  characters  of  this  rock 
with  those  of  the  limestone  observed  by  Mr.  Freiesleben,  and 
described  by  him  under  the  name  of  zechstein  and  ranch- 
wacke,  we  will  be  surprised  at  the  great  similarity  in  their 
appearance.  The  "  zechstein  is  a  compact,  hard  and  tough 
limestone  of  an  ash-gray  colour  passing  into  blackish-gi-ay, 
distinctly  stratified,  without  however  presenting  any  slaty 


Ids 


EXFEDITION  TO  TRX 


^t.|), I, -,!*»,  iff. 


appearance,  or  at  least  much  less  so  than  the  inferior  beds ; 
it  contains  specks  and  some  veins  of  calcareous  spar  and 
gypsum;  also  crystals  of  quartz,  &c. ;  it  likewise  offers 
sometimes  specks  of  galena.  It  generally  presents  but  few 
petrifactions,  Corallites  and  Millepores,  as  well  as  several 
species  of  Terebratulites ;  Ammonites,  &c.  have  been  found 
in  it." 

^*  Above  this  compact  limestone  another  stratum  of  calca> 
reous  rock  is  found  which  is  knov/n  in  the  country  under 
the  name  of  raiLchwacke,  (smoky  wacke ;)  it  is  a  limestone 
probably  intermixed  with  silex,  of  a  dark-gray,  sometimes 
blackish  colour,  with  a  somewhat  scaly  fracture,  occasion- 
ally fine-grained,  sometimes  though  seldom  oolitic,  hard, 
tough,  and  filled,  with  pores  or  cavities ;  this  last  feature 
is  characteristic ;  it  may  be  observed  even  in  those  parts 
of  the  stratum  which  appear  most  compact ;  the  cavities  are 
angular,  long,  and  narrow,  (as  in  a  cracked  cla/ ;)  the  in- 
terior of  the  cavities  is  lined  with  small  ciystsds  of  calc- 
spar,  these  cavities  are  sometimes  large,  being  several 
yards  in  length  and  breadth,  &c." 

He  afterwards  proceeds  to  describe  the  ashes  or  pul- 
verulent substance  found  near  it  This,  from  its  great  simi- 
larity to  the  residue  of  the  combustion  of  wood,  is  desig- 
nated in  Germany  by  the  name  of  fl»cA«,  (ashes.)  These 
characters,  when  taken  into  connection,  appear  to  us  to 
correspond  so  well  with  those  observed  on  the  Wasse- 
mon,  on  the  Mississippi,  and  throughout  the  country 
between  Rock  river  and  Prairie  du  Cbien,  that  we 
feel  strongly  induced  to  consider  th3  limestone  of  this 
country  as  analogous  to  that  observed  by  Mr.  Freiesleben. 
This  limr  stone  is  by  some  European  continental  geologists 
referred  to  the  Licis  of  Eni^lish  geologists;  but  we  would 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER'3   RIVER. 


197 


ttferiorbeds; 
)us  spar  and 
kewise  offers 
jsents  but  few 
bU  as  several 
ve  been  found 

•atum  of  calca- 
jountry  under 
:  is  a  limestone 
ray,  somfctimes 
Bture,  occasion- 
n  oolitic,  hard, 
his  last  feature 
I  in  those  parts 
♦he  cavities  are 
I  clay;)  the  in- 
ciystals  of  calc- 
1,  being  several 

16  ashes  or  pul- 
m  its  great  simi- 

wood,  is  desig- 
(ashes.)  These 
appear  to  us  to 

on  the  Wasse- 
lut  the  couiitry 
[cbien,  that  we 
imestone  of  this 
[Mr.  Freiesleben. 
linental  geologists 

.  but  we  would 


rather  refer  it,  wiih  Messrs.  Conyoeare  and  Phillips,  to 
the  newer  magnesian  or  conglomerate  limestone  of  Eng- 
land; to  this,  we  think,  it  has  the  strongest  analogy. 
It  is  probably  connected,  as  we  have  already  intimated, 
with  the  limestone  situated  above  the  coal  fields  of  Wheeling 
and  Zanesville ;  it  extends  over  those  parts  of  Ohio  and  Indi- 
ana^  where  spit  has  been  found ;  it  is  observed  cellular, 
cavernous,  &c.  on  the  banks  of  the  Wassemon ;  it  is  con- 
nected with  real  calcareous  ashes  on  the  Mississippi.  The 
presence  of  the  oolite  which  was  observed  here  in  a  single 
spot,  does  not  militate  against  the  position  which  we  have 
taken,  as  we  find  it  stated,  by  Conybeare  and  Phillips, 
(page  30S,)  on  the  authority  of  Mr.  Wynch,  that  the  mag- 
nesjan  limtsstone  is  occasionally  oolitic.  It  presents  in  many 
of  its  points,  the  characters  of  the  rauchwacke,  and  espe- 
cially the  cellular  or  cavernous  structure ;  it  is  seldom  found 
very  abundantly  strewed  win.,  organic  remains;  its  colour 
is  the  pale  buff  passing  to  the  ash-gray.  In  fine,  the  more 
attentively  we  examine  it,  the  more  closely  do  we  find  it 
to  connect  itself  with  the  formations  of  Thuringen,  and 
with  those  which  cover  so  extensive  a  part  of  England, 
and  more  particularly  with  that  observed  in  Yorkshire  by 
Professor  Buckland;  offering  thus,  as  it  appears  to  us, 'a 
beautiful  confirmation  of  the  analogy  established  between 
the  various  kinds  of  this  limestone,  observed  in  divers  parts 
of  Europe.  There  is  an  experiment  which  would,  as  we 
conceive,  place  the  matter  beyond  a  doubt ;  this  would  be 
an  analysis  of  the  limestone  witli  a  view  to  ascertain  the 
quantity  of  magnesia  which  it  contains,  and  we  regret  much 
that  the  loss  of  our  specimens  has  deprived  us  of  the  op- 
portunity of  making  this  analysis.  But  we  think  the  case 
sufiiciently  strong  to  justify  us  in  considering  this  as  the 
fortnation  corresponding  to  the  magnesian  limestone  of 


198 


EXPEDITION   TO    Th£ 


l| 


I'  i^  * :, 


i  hi 


'd  ''U 


Iff  .-  -'  m 

II  ill! 


England,  and  to  the  ratichwicke  and  zechstein  of  Tlui- 
ringen.* 

In  offering  these  remarks  xo  geologists,  we  have  not, 
overlooked  the  very  correct  observation  of  one  whose  ex- 
perience adds  value  to  the  advice  which  he  gives  to  natu- 
ralists ;  indeed  we  have  found  the  truth  of  Mr.  D' Aubuis- 
son's  remark  fully  exemplified  here.  "  Let  us  further 
observe,"  says  he,  "that  the  influence  of  localities  be- 
comes more  sensible  as  we  draw  nearer  to  modern  epochas, 
and  we  will  be  convinced  of  the  difficulty  of  drawing  cer- 
tain conclusions  as  to  the  identity  of  two  calcareous  forma- 
tions somewhat  distant."  If  with  this  remark  before  us, 
we  are  thought  to  have  ventured  too  much  in  supposing  a 
connection  between  the  formations  of  England  and  Ger- 
many, and  those  west  of  the  Alleghanies,  let  it  be  remem- 
bered that  we  cnly  offer  this  as  a  suggestion  to  the  future 
investigator  of  our  western  limestone,  in  order  that  he 
may  turn  his  attention  to  the  subject  with  more  favouri«ble 
opportunities  of  obsei'vation  than  those  afforded  us  by  a 
transient  visit  through  the  country:  We  shall  have  occa- 
sion to  mention  some  further  fact^  which  we  consider  as 
adding  evidence  to  the  opinion  which  we  have  advanced. 
But  there  is  another  question  which  naturally  arises ;  if, 
as  Mr.  Freiesleben  has  described  it,  the  zechstein  pre- 
sents  specks  of  galena  or  sulphuret  of  lead ;  if,  as  Mr.  Co- 
nybeare  states,  the  galena  is  seen  "  occurring  in  strings  in 
the  magnesian  limestone  of  Nottingham  and  Durham ;"  if 

■  r  ' 
*  The  reader  is  referred  to  the  Outlines  of  the  Geology  of  England 
and  Wales,  by  the  Rev.  W.  D.  Conybeare  and  Wm.  Phillips,  &c.  Lon- 
don, 1822,  p.  300,  &  seq.  Traits  de  G^ognosie,  par  J.  F.  D'Aubuisson  de 
Voisins,  Paris,  1819.  Vol.  II.  p.  336,  337,  343, 353.  J.  C.  Freiesleben's 
GeognosUche  Arbeiten,  (Beytrag  zur  kentniss  des  kupferschiefer-ge- 
birgcs.) 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


199 


tein  of  Thu- 


it.  has  been  occasionally  found  in  the  conglomerate  oecU 
associated  with  this  formation,  particularly  near  Mendrp- 
hills,  in  England;  if  it  coi  t^ins  veins  of  sulphate  of  ba- 
rytes  at  the  Hudd<e8ton  quarry  near  Sherburn,  between 
Ferrybridge  and  York ;  if  it  is  traversed  by  veins  of  sul- 
phate of  barytes  near  Nottingham,  at  Bramham  Moor,  &c. 
may  it  not  then  be  asked,  whether  these  considerations  do  not 
render  it  nrobable  that  the  great  lead  deposite  of  the  west 
is  in  this  limestone?  and  is  it  not  likely  that  all  that  has  been 
worked  in  an  alluvion  has  been  detached  !  oiti  this  forma- 
tion ?  These  are  questions  upon  which,  in  the  present  state  of 
our  acquaintance  with  the  western  limestone,  we  must 
profess  ourselves  unable  to  give  any  decided  opinion;  but 
from  varioMs  circumstances  which  we  need  not  dwell  upon, 
we  should  incline  to  consider  the  lead  ore  as  probably  ex- 
isting in  an  older  limestone  which  we  think  underlays 
this  j  and  which  may  be  connected  with  the  mountain  or 
carboniferous  limestone  of  Messrs.  Conybeare  and  Phil- 
lips, with  the  metalliferous  limestone  of  other  geologists. 

The  country  becomes  more  undulated  as  we  draw  nearer 
^0  the  Mississippi ;  the  ridges  are  low  bui  somewhat  steep, 
owing  to  the  horizontal  stratification  of  the  rocks ;  one  of 
the.\r  sides  very  frequently  discovers  the  composition  of 
the  hills  by  a  steep  break.  At  other  times  the  country  pre- 
sents the  waved  appearance  of  a  somewhat  ruffled  ocean ;  it 
is  covered  with  a  short  dry  grass,  the  vegetation  generally 
appearing  inferior  to  that  of  the  alluvial  country  'through 
which  we  had  previously  passed.  This  waved  appearance 
seems  to  have  been  caused  by  the  production  of  valleys  sub- 
sequently formed,  and  extending  from  north-easu  to  south- 
west, all  dipping  to  the  latter  point ;  these  are  said  to  con- 
tinue almost  in  a  straight  line  to  the  Mississippi.  Our  ob- 
ject being  i:o  sfa-ike  that  river  at  a  point  further  north,  our 


200 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


course,  which  approaches  to  a  north-west  direction,  obliges 
us  to  cross  all  these  ridges  and  valleys  nearly  at  right  an- 
gles. No  granitic  blocks  are  to  ^  ^en ;  this  is  accounted 
for  by  the  fact  that  we  are  no  long^.  pon  the  alluvial  for- 
mation, but  upon  the  magnesian  limestone  which  rises  to 
a  greater  height,  constituting  the  dividing  ridge  between 
the  Mississippi,  Rock  river,  and  the  Wisconsan,  and  per- 
haps connecting  itself  with  what  have  been  termed  the 
Wisconsan  hills. 

The  features,  which  we  observed  from  the  Wassemon  to 
the  Wisconsan,  are  extremely  interesting.  At  a  distance  of 
a  few  miles  north-west  of  the  former  stream,  the  vegeta- 
tion presented  a  sudden  and  striking  change,  announcing  a 
corresponding  one  in  the  geological  character  of  the  coun- 
try. We  ascended  a  rough,  steep,  and  hilly  ground,  which 
was  covered  with  heavy  timber,  and  with  a  very  thick 
underwood,  consisting  principally  of  young  oak  and  aspen. 
This  thick  brush-wood  continued  for  about  two  miles, 
when  we  struck  the  bank  of  a  small  stream,  remarkable  for 
the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  which  differed  from  any  that  we 
had  hitherto  met  with.  The  brook  runs  in  a  deep  and  narrow 
glen,  the  sides  of  which  are  very  steep  and  in  some  places 
vertical ;  they  are  covered  at  their  summit  with  a  dense  vege- 
tation, which  extends  over  the  edge  of  the  rock,  and  imparts 
a  character  of  austerity  and  of  gloom  to  this  secluded  valley, 
which  finds  not  its  parallel  in  any  that  we  recollect  having 
ever  seefn.  The  dark  colour,  which  the  water  receives  from 
the  deep  shadows  cast  by  the  high  steep  bank  and  its  over- 
hanging vegetation,  forms  a  pleasing  relief  to  the  glare,  so 
uniformly  fatiguing,  of  the  unsheltered  prairie.     This  spot 
conveyed  so  much  relief  to  the  eye  and  to  the  mind,  that 
the  party  could  not  repress  their  delight  on  beholding  it. 
The  geologist  who  connects  a  change  in  th»  nature  of  the 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETEE's    RIVER. 


20  L 


ction,  obliges 
jr  at  right  an- 
I  is  accounted 
B  alluvial  for- 
^hich  rises  to 
idge  between 
8an,  and  per- 
n  termed  the 

i  Wassemon  to 
Lt  a  distance  of 
ti,  the  vegeta- 
5,  announcing  a 
er  of  the  coun- 
ground,  which 
li  a  very  thick 
oak  and  aspen. 
)ut  two  miles, 
remarkable  for 
)m  any  that  we 
eep  and  narrow 
in  some  places 
adensevege- 
[ck,  and  imparts 
lecluded  valley, 
icoUect  having 
fr  receives  from 
ik  and  its  over- 
Ito  the  glare,  so 
Irie.    This  spot 
the  mind,  that 
beholding  it. 
nature  of  the 


subjacent  rock,  with  a  diversity  in  the  character  of  the 
country,  or  of  its  vegetation,  would  naturally  find  an  ex- 
planation for  the  new  features  which  the  country  assumes, 
by  observing  that  the  high  banks  of  this  glen  are  formed  of 
sandstone  rocks,  the  nature  of  which  we  had  an  opportunity 
of  studying  with  attention,  during  a  great  part  of  our  jour- 
ney of  the  18th  of  June.  We  observed  that  the  sandstone  is 
distinctly  superposed  to  the  limestone ;  that  it  constitutes 
upon  it  hills,  which  vary  from  thirty  to  one  hundred  feet 
and  upwards ;  these  hills  are  divided  by  valleys,  in  the 
bottom  of  which  the  limestone  reappears  in  place.  The 
sides  of  the  hills  are  steep,  and  but  few  indications  of  stra- 
tification are  observable,  except  where  the  valley  is  partly 
excavated  in  the  limestone  itself;  in  which  case  the  lower 
part  of  the  hill  is  less  steep,  but  presents  a  distinct  stratifi- 
cation. The  line  of  superposition  of  the  saridstone  over  the 
limestone,  may  also  be  traced  with  considerable  accuracy, 
by  the  examination  of  the  vegetation.  Whenever  the  iai- 
ter  rock  prevails,  the  surface  is  even  and  smooth,  or  mo- 
dified by  gentle  swells,  covered  with  a  thick  and  long 
grass,  and  forming  an  uniform  fide  green,  meadow-like 
country,  while  the  sandstone  invariably  imparts  to  the 
surface  an  asperity  which  is  as  distinct  as  the  vigorous 
gi'owth  of  trees  with  which  it  is  covered,  and  as  its  abun- 
dant undergrowth,  which  denotes  a  strong  and  productive 
soil,  having  a  tendency  to  bear  heavy  forests. 

The  rock  is  a  white  sandstone,  formed  of  fragments 
of  fine  transparent  and  colourless  quartz,  uniiec  by  a 
cement,  which  in  some  parts  appears  to  be  ferri.ginous, 
while  in  others  it  is  colourless,  and  probably  of  a  calcare- 
ous nature.  In  some  parts  the  cement  is  quite  invisible, 
and  would  almost  lead  to  the  belief  tl.at  the  union  of  the 
grains  was  a  crystalline  one.  This  sandstono  appears  in  frag- 

Vor..  T.  2fi 


202 


KXPEDITION    TO   THE 


■i  !'|f, 

^  I'  m 


inents  or  tatters,  and  constitutes  the  remains  of  a  formation, 
which  probably  covered  the  whole  of  the  limestone,  at 
least  in  this  part  of  the  country.  That  it  is  above  the  lime- 
stone, no  doubt  can  exist,  in  our  minds,  as  we  saw  the  imme- 
diate superposition.  It  sometimes  appears,  it  is  true,  to  sink 
below  the  level  of  that  rock;  and  this  led  us  at  first  to  ap- 
prehend that  there  might  be  an  alternation  of  strata,  but  a 
careful  examination  of  all  these  spots  has  left  no  doubt  in 
our  minds,  that  in  these  cases  the  sandstone  is  deposited  in 
coves  or  valleys  formed  in  the  limestone  previous  to  the 
deposition  of  the  sandstone ;  these  cases  are,  however,  not 
common,  and  we  may  safely  state,  as  a  general  rule,  that 
not  only  the  sandstone  is  relatively  above  the  limestone,  but 
that  it  is  even,  in  almost  all  cases,  at  a  greater  absolute  ele- 
vation ;  and  the  spot,  at  which  we  first  met  with  it,  west  of 
the  Wassemon,  was  considerably  elevated  above  the  usual 
level  of  the  limestone ;  for,  wherever  the  sandstone  has  re- 
tained its  position,  it  has  protected  the  limestone  against 
decomposition,  and  hence,  in  such  places,  the  latter  rock 
still  continues  to  rise  to  a  higher  level  than  where  it  is 
laid  bare,  and  exposed  to  the  destructive  influence  of  at- 
mospherical agents.  We  also  observed  very  distinctly,  that 
while  the  valleys,  formed  in  the  limestone  at  a  time  anterior 
to  the  deposition  of  the  sandstone,  were  few,  those  produced 
subsequently  were  numerous,  as  was  indicated  by  the  great 
roughness  and  unevenness  of  the  sandstone  country,  and 
by  the  many  undulations  in  the  uncovered  limestone 
which  we  have  already  had  occasion  to  mention.  From  the 
observations  made  on  the  18th,  it  was  thought  very  probable 
that  all  the  hills  observed  at  a  distance  on  the  17th,  were 
formed  of  this  sandstone ;  and  from  some  characters  which 
had  appeared,  at  the  time,  to  present  an  anomaly,  it  was  in- 
ferred that  the  Enneshoteno  or  twin  mountains,  near  which 


source:    OV    8T.    PKTER  »    RIVKR. 


SOS 


'  a  formation, 
limestone,  at 
ove  the  lime- 
aw  the  imme- 
s  true,  to  sink 
at  first  to  ap- 
►f  strata,  but  a 
t  no  doubt  in 
is  deposited  in 
revious  to  the 
,  however,  not 
leral  rule,  that 
e  limestone,  but 

ter  absolute  ele- 
with  it,  west  of 
above  the  usual 
andstone  has  re- 
mestone  against 
he  latter  rock 
lan  where  it  is 
influence  of  at- 
ydistincay,that 
it  a  time  anterior 
those  produced 
ated  by  the  great 
ne  country,  and 
^ered  limestone 
ntion.  From  the 
;ht  very  probable 
*  the  17th,  were 
characters  which 
iomaly,itwasin- 
itains,  near  which 


we  had  passed  that  day,  without  stopping,  were  probably 
also  remains  of  the  general  sandstone  formation  which  ex- 
tended over  the  whole  country.  No  organic  remains  were 
observed  in  the  sandstone,  or  in  the  limestone  which  under- 
lays it;  but  no  doubt  can  exist  that  they  may  contain  some, 
and  that  the  limestone  probably  contains  many. 

Proceeding  towards  the  Wisconsan,  the  country  pre- 
sents an  alternation  of  rolling  and  undulated  prairie,  inter- 
spersed with  hills  composed  of  either  one  or  the  other  of 
these  rocks.  The  sandstone  is  found  in  most  places  to  be 
covered  with  thin  flattened  fragments  of  a  stone,  difiering 
in  its  nature  and  texture  from  the  character  of  the  other 
rocks,  whether  of  limestone  or  sandstone.  These  frag- 
ments are  generally  observed  to  vary  from  three  to  twelve 
inches  in  leng^th,  from  two  to  eight  in  breadth,  and  from 
one  quarter  to  one  inch  in  thickness  ;  they  present  appear- 
ances of  having  been  weathered,  but  not  of  having  been  roll- 
ed ;  they  are  very  abundant,  and  we  could  account  for  them 
in  no  other  way  than  by  admitting  that  they  were  the  re- 
mains, probably  the  harder  parts,  of  a  stratum  that  had  at 
one  time  covered  the  sandstone,  but  that  had  disappeared 
almost  entirely,  leaving  only  these  fragments  to  attc  3t  its 
former  existence  and  situation.  On  examining  these  frag- 
ments with  care,  we  found  them  to  be  very  uniform  in  their 
characters ;  their  composition  is  in  great  measure  calcareous, 
but  from  their  greater  hardness  we  consider  it  as  partly  silice- 
ous ;  they  are  replete  with  organic  remains ;  these  are  princi- 
pally referrible  to  the  Productus,  Terebratula,  &c.  We  saw 
none  but  what  belonged  to  bivalves.  The  existence  of 
these  fragments  was  observed  upon  many  elevations,  over 
a  considerable  extent  of  country,  while  in  the  vallies  no 
trace  of  them  could  be  seen.  Generalizing  the  observa- 
tions made  during  the  three  last  days  of  our  journey  pre- 


..  Ji 


204 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


S  :t 


1^ 


I  7  r 

ins    ''  I  [  t| 


vious  to  our  arrival  on  the  Mississippi,  we  are  led  to  admit 
that  there  are,  or  rather  that  there  were  formerly,  two  dis- 
tinct formations  of  limestone  in  this  country,  and  that 
they  were  separated  by  a  thick  stratum  of  sandstone ;  of 
these  two  limestone  formations,  the  older  one,  which  we 
have  already  described  with  minuteness,  we  have  been  in- 
duced to  consider  as  coeval  with,  or  analogous  to,  the 
magnesian  limestone  of  England.  The  superior  formation 
is  distinguished  by  the  circumstance  of  its  containing 
harder  fragments  or  nodules  of  limestone,  which  alone  re- 
main to  establish  the  fact  of  its  former  existence ;  that  it 
contained  no  hornstone  or  flinty  quartz,  as  observed  in  the 
former,  we  are  led  to  believe,  because  had  they  existed 
they  must  necessarily  have  resisted  decomposition  as  well 
or  better  than  the  calcareous  nodules  which  are  now  found 
alone.  The  much  greater  abundance  of  shells  in  these  no- 
dules, and  the  total  absence  of  the  Madreporites  appear  to 
us  to  be  very  characteristie  distinctions  between  these  and 
the  underlaying  limestone,  though  perhaps  too  much 
weight  ought  not  to  be  assigned  to  the  absence  of  the 
Madreporites,  as  these  from  their  loose  and  more  porous 
texture  may  have  been  unable  to  resist  the  decomposing 
causes  which  appear  to  have  affected  this  formation.  In 
some  places  a  limestone  bed  was  observeu  upon  the  sand- 
stone, but  these  depositions  were  so  partial,  and  in  all  cases 
the  ground  was  so  much  overgrown  with  bushes,  that  we 
were  unable  to  examine  their  characters  with  any  degree 
of  minuteness.  This  striking  difference,  however,  we 
observed,  and  we  are  led  to  consider  it  as  constant,  that 
the  inferior  limestone,  whenever  it  appears  exposed,  is 
covered  with  small  scales  or  fragments  of  the  hornstone 
nodules  whose  existence  has  already  been  alluded  to,  while 
none  of  the  flat,  calcareous  fragments,  abounding  in  shells, 


SOURCE    or   ST.    PETER  S    RIVER. 


205 


•e  led  to  admit 
iierly,  two  dis- 
^try,  and  that 
sandstone;  of 
me,  which  we 
B  have  heen  in- 
ilogous  to,  the 
»erior  formation 
its  containing 
which  alone  re- 
dstence;  that  it 
i  observed  in  the 
ad  they  existed 
[iposition  as  well 
ih  are  now  found 
hells  in  these  no- 
iporites  appear  to 
etween  these  and 
rhaps   too  much 
e  absence  of  the 
ind  more  porous 
the  decomposing 
is  formation.    In 
u  upon  the  sand- 
al, and  in  all  cases 
bushes,  that  we 
with  any  degree 
|ce,  however,  we 
as  constant,  that 
pears  exposed,  is 
of  the  hornstone 
alluded  to,  while 
lounding  in  shells, 


are  found  upon  it;  whereas  these  were  uniformly  observ- 
ed to  the  exclusion  of  the  scales  of  hornstone  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  calcareous  stratum  that  overlays  the  sandstone. 
If  contrary  to  the  opinion  which  we  have  been  led  to  adopt, 
the  limestone  be  supposed  to  constitute  but  one  formation, 
whether  above  or  below  the  sandstone ;  then  will  we  ask, 
whence  come  these  flattened  fragments,  observed  upon  the 
sandstone  ?  If  from  the  remains  of  a  more  solid  stratum  in 
the  limestone  itself,  why,  let  us  again  ask,  are  not  these 
likewise  observed  upon  the  inferior  limestone  itself? 
Why  is  not  the  hornstone,  which  appears  to  characterize 
the  lower  limestone,  also  observed  upon  the  sandstone  ?  We 
might  further  ask,  if  the  limestone  above  and  below  the 
sandstone  bed  be  the  same,  ought  we  not  to  And  signs  of 
calcareous  beds  subordinate  to  the  sandstone,  and  would  we 
not  have  a  right  to  expect  an  interposition  of  limestone  in 
the  immense  bed  of  sandstone  which,  as  we  have  previously 
stated,  is  often  one  hundred  feet  in  thickness  ?  Yet  this  we 
never  observed  to  be  the  case. 

If  an  alternation  of  sandstone  and  limestone  strata  be- 
longing to  the  same  formation  were  indicated  by  the  cha- 
racters previously  alluded  to,  would  we  not  be  entitled  to 
expect  that  the  fragments  and  detritus  of  both  should  be 
found  together  ?  Yet  in  the  valleys  of  the  sandstone  coun- 
try, and  particularly  in  the  beautiful  and  romantic  one 
which  rested  upon  the  limestone,  and  was  enclosed  by 
sandstone  hills,  we  observed  no  fragments  of  the  former 
rock,  and  but  a  few  large  blocks  of  sandstone  which  had 
evidently  fallen  of  late  from  the  sides  of  the  valley. 
While  travelling  on  the  hills  we  observed  that  they  were 
covered,  in  certain  parts,  with  a  thin  stratum  of  fine  sand, 
resulting  from  a  slight  decomposition  of  the  rock,  as  is  ob- 
servable in  all  sandstones  of  a  loose  texture. 


206 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


From  what  has  been  previously  observed  on  the  com- 
parative age  of  the  limestone  of  the  Wassemon  with  the 
formations  of  Europe,  we  readily  discover  that  this  sand- 
stone cannot  be  older  than  the  variegated  sandstone,  (Bunt 
sandstein,)  of  Werner,  and  we  have  reason  to  consider  it  as 
an  analogous  formation.  This  of  course  corresponds  with 
the  new  red  sandstone  or  red  marl  of  English  geologists. 
In  this  formation  in  England  the  red  marl  certainly  pre- 
dominates; we  are  not,  however,  to  be  surprised  if  in 
America  we  should  find  the  marl  almost  deficient,  and  the 
sandstone  in  its  place ;  for  it  cannot  be  expected  that  the 
same  uniformity,  which  exists  between  the  primitive  or 
general  formations  of  the  old  and  new  continent,  will  be  ob- 
served between  the  secondary  or  partial  formations ;  if  we 
can  trace  a  general  resemblance,  we  have  perhaps  gone 
further  than  we  were  justified  in  expecting.  With  the  va- 
riegated sandstones  of  Germany  this  formation  presents  a 
great  analogy,  a^d  perhaps  its  most  remarkable  difierence, 
though  undoubtedly  a  very  trifling  one  in  reality,  is  in  the 
colour,  which  is  seldom  red,  though  it  occasionally  be- 
comes so.  This,  among  many  other  instances,  proves  the 
great  desideratum  that  geologists  should  agree  upon  names 
more  intelligible  and  less  arbitrary  than  those  which  have 
been  usually  adopted;  if  the  formations  of  Europe  and 
America  are  to  be  compared,  (and  the  daily  progress  of 
science  proves  that  even  those  of  Asia  and  Africa  will  soon 
be  sufficiently  investigated  to  enable  us  to  take  them  into 
consideration,)  we  ought  to  have  better  names  than  those 
derived  from  the  most  fugitive  of  all  characters,  that  of 
colour. 

The  limestone  formation,  the  existence  of  which  above 
the  sandstone  we  think  we  have  been  enabled  to  establish, 
appeal's  to  us  from  it^  mineralogical  as  well  as  its  geologi- 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


207 


on  the  com- 
mon with  the 
lat  this  sand- 
dstone,  (Bunt 
>  consider  it  as 
responds  with 
ish  geologists, 
certainly  pre- 
mrprised  if  in 
ficient,  and  the 
pected  that  the 
le  primitive  or 
nent,wiUbeob- 
,rmations-,ifwe 
e  perhaps  gone 
g.   With  the  va- 
lation  presents  a 
table  difference, 
reality,  is  in  the 
occasionally  be- 
mces,  proves  the 
agree  upon  names 
hose  which  have 
s  of  Europe  and 
daily  progress  of 
d  Africa  will  soon 
take  them  into 
names  than  those 
-haracters,  that  oi 

ie  of  which  above 
labled  to  establish, 

^rell  as  its  geologi- 


cal characters  to  connect  itself  with  the  Lias  of  England, 
and  more  particularly  with  that  variety  so  well  known  in 
France  and  Germany  under  the  name  of  Calcaire^oquillieTf 
(muschel  kalk  of  Werner,)  which  constitutes,  as  is  well 
known,  the  upper  bed  of  what  was  formerly  termed  the 
Jura  limestone ;  and  which  is  inferior  to  the  great  oolitic 
series  of  England,  of  which,  it  forms  as  it  were  the  founda- 
tion.    This  oolitic  series  must  not  be  considered  as  in- 
cluding the  oolites  which  have  been  occasionally  observed 
in  the  Jura  limestone  of  the  French,  the  zechstein  of  the 
Germans,  and  the  magnesian  limestone  of  England.  In  all 
these  instances  the  oolite  forms  but  a  partial  and  probably  an 
accidental  deposite  in  a  limestone,  which  is  certainly  inferior 
to  the  variegated  {Bunt)  sandstone,  or  new  red  sandstone  for- 
mation. We  have  in  this  account  of  the  western  limestones, 
studiously  avoided,  until  this  time,  introducing  the  terms  of 
Alpine  and  Jura  limestones,  and  comparing  them  together, 
as  it  appears  to  us  well  established  that  the  greatest  confu- 
sion has  prevailed  from  the  indiscriminate  application  of 
these  words.     The  truth  of  this  will  be  acknowledged  by 
those  who  recollect  that,  by  some  geologists,  the  two  names 
have  been  used  to  indicate  the  same  limestone,  (at  least  in 
certain  cases,)  while  some  have  removed  almost  all  the 
Alpine  limestone  into  the  transition  formations,  and  others 
have  extended  the  Jura  limestone  to  make  it  include  the 
muschel  kalk  of  Germany,  which  we  have  good  grounds 
for  considering  as  coeval  with  the  Lias  of  England.  It  will, 
doubtless,  be  observed  by  those  who  have  made  a  particu- 
lar study  of  the  limestone  formations  to  which  we  have  al- 
luded, that  there  are  some  apparent  contradictions  in  our 
statement    That  for  instance,  the  asche  and  the  oolite  ob- 
served on  the  Mississippi  cannot  be  considered  as  connect- 
ed together,  and  with  the  cavernous  limestone  of  the  Was- 


208 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


III 

If - 

St.  ■  :i.  j; 

m 

'I;  i 

If  ill 

semon,  without  bringing  together  limestores,  which  in 
Europe  at  least,  are  found  of  very  different  ages,  unless  we 
adopt  the  opinion  that  this  oolite  is  subordinate  to  the  mag- 
nesian  limestone.  This  we  are  disposed  to  do,  as  we  have 
no  reason  to  believe  that  the  formations  of  the  Mississippi 
are  superior  to  those  of  the  Wassemon,  or  that  they  are  * 
separated  by  the  new  red  sandstone  formation ;  if  we  could 
venture  to  express  an  opinion,  where  much  doubt  really 
exists,  we  would  say  that  the  oolite  was  of  the  same  age  as 
the  asche,  or  pulverulent  limestone,  and  that  it  probably 
constitutes  merely  an  accidental  modification  of  the  mag- 
nesian  limestone  similar  to  that  observed  ''  at  Hartlepool 
on  the  coast  of  Northumberland,  where  a  stratum  of  hard 
white  oolite  exists,  the  grains  composing  it  being  about  the 
size  of  a  mustard  seed,"  and  similar  to  the  oolitic  varieties 
which  Mr.  Freiesleben  observed  sometimes,  though  sel- 
dom, in  the  ratichwacke. 

If  in  the  rude  and  unsatisfactory  sketch  which  we  have 
presented  of  these  formations,  we  have  thrown  any  light 
upon  a  doubtful  and  obscure  point,  we  doubt  not  we  shall 
be  excused,  by  the  experienced  geologist,  for  the  apparent 
contradictions  which  we  may  have  revealed.  Our  object 
has  been  to  state  the  facts  as  they  came  under  our  notice, 
and  without  any  intention  to  establish  a  connection  be- 
tween the  formations  of  Europe,  and  those  which  we  have 
described.  If  the  facts  militate  against  observations  made 
abroad,  we  must  regret  it;  "but  we  have  only  stated  them 
as  they  have  appeared  to  us.  Our  opinion  remains,  how- 
ever, unchanged,  that  whenever  these  observations  shall 
be  repeated  under  more  favourable  circumstances,  the  dif- 
ficulties will  vanish,  and  the  analogy  between  the  forma- 
tions of  Europe  and  ours,  will  appear  still  greater ;  a  due 
allowance  being  of  course  made  for  those  differences  which 


source:    op   ST.    I-ETER  S    RIVER. 


209 


result  from  the  local  circumstances  that  may  have  influ« 
enced  these  partial  deposites. 

Those  geologists,  who  have  been  called  upon  to  make 
observations  in  a  wild  and  uncultivated  country,  where  the 
rocks  are  frequently  concealed  by  a  luxuriant  vegetation, 
where  the  industry  of  man  has  not  penetrated  by  means 
of  quarries,  wells,  inc.  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  and 
where  no  facilities  exist  to  roam  at  large  in  search  of  breaks, 
will,  we  think,  appreciate  the  difficulties  which  we  have  had 
to  encounter  in  the  examination  of  this  section  of  the  coun- 
try ;  difficulties  which  have  been  increased  by  the  loss  of 
our  specimens,  whence  we  have  been  obliged  to  depend 
exclusively  upon  the  descriptions  recorded  in  our  notes  at 
the  time,  without  being  allowed  an  opportunity  of  com- 
paring the  characters  of  the  rocks  with  those  observed  on 
former  occasions. 

Observations  were  made  by  Mr.  Colhoun  for  the  pur^^ 
pose  of  ascertaining  the  longitude  of  our  encampment  on 
the  Wassemon,  which  he  determined  to  be  90°  4'  45" 
West.  The  latitude  was  also  obtained  by  observations  made 
at  midnight,  and  was  found  to  be  42°  30'  10"  North.  We 
remarked  with  pleasure  the  surprise  and  delight  expressed 
in  Wennebea's  face,  during  these  observations.  His  f  stonish- 
ment  at  the  characters  of  the  mercury,  used  for  an  artificial 
horizon,  showed  that  he  had  never  seen  any  thing  like  it ; 
his  delight  was  strongly  marked  every  time  he  placed  his 
finger  upon  the  bright  and  dense  mercury,  and  observed  the 
fluid,  receding  from  his  touch,  and  receiving  an  impression 
as  though  it  had  been  water ;  yet,  as  he  observed,  not  pos- 
sessed of  the  property  of  wetting  his  finger  like  the  latter 
fluid.  He  was  shown  the  construction  of  the  sextant,  and 
very  soon  learnt  the  use  of  it.  As  soon  as  he  saw  the 
ilouble  image  of  the  moon,  he  raised  his  two  fingers  in 

Vol.  I.  .  37 


flli) 


J£Xf£DITION    TO    THE 


toke'i  of  what  he  had  seen.  To  one  disposed  to  indulge  in 
the  sublime  views  of  Plato,  on  the  immortality  of  the  soul, 
(Cic.  de  Senec.  Cap.  21,)  it  would  have  appeared  as  if 
there  floated  in  Wennebea's  mind,  at  that  time,  an  indis- 
tinct recollection  of  what  had  once  been  familiar  to  him. 
His  mind  seemed  to  have  received  a  deep  impression  from 
the  contemplation  of  the  heavens,  but  it  still  remains  ques- 
tionable  with  us,  whether  his  feelings  were  produced  by 
the  wonderful  grandeur  of  the  planets  which  he  had  be< 
held,  and  by  the  associations  with  which  he  connected 
them,  or  by  the  ingenuity  of  white  men,  who  with  a  sort  of 
talisman,  had  brought,  within  the  sphere  of  his  vision,  objects 
which  were  previously  unknown  to  him,  and  imparted  to 
him  thereby,  as  it  were,  a  new  sense.  It  seemed  as  if  his 
mind  was  overflowing;  and  he  very  williQgly  answered 
the  questions  which  were  put  to  him,  concerning  his  ideas 
of  the  objects  he  had  been  beholding.  He  believed  the 
sun  to  be  the  residence  of  a  male  Deity,  who  looks  placidly 
upon  the  earth,  and  who  being  propitious  to  man,  exposes  to 
his  view  the  wild  beasts  and  serpents  which  cross  his  path. 
He  thought,  that  immediately  after  death,  the  soul  quits  its 
mortal  residence,  and  journeys  towards  the  setting  sun, 
-where,  if  its  life  had  been  spent  in  a  manner  agreeable  to 
the  Deity,  it  finds  no  difficulty  in  stepping  over  the  agi- 
tated log  which  stretches  across  the  gulf.  It  then  be- 
comes an  eternal  inhabitant  of  the  "  Village  of  the  Dead," 
situated  in  a  prairie,  that  abounds  in  all  the  pleasures  which 
the  simple  imagination  of  the  Indian  can  covet  The 
moon,  on  the  contrarj?^,  he  held  to  be  inhabited  by  an  ad- 
verse female  Deity,  whose  delight  is  to  cross  man  in  all  his 
pursuits.  If  during  their  sleep,  this  Deity  should  present 
herself  to  them  in  their  dreams,  the  Indians  consider  it  as 
enjoined  upon  them  by  duty,  to  become  dnsedi;  they  ever 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETEr's   RIVER. 


211 


o  indulge  in 
^  of  the  soul, 
ppeared  as  if 
tne,an  indis- 
iUar  to  bim. 
pression  from 
remains  ques- 
j  produced  by 
■h  he  had  be- 
jie  connected 
o  with  a  sort  of 
Ls  vision,  objects 
,nd  imparted  to 
seemed  as  if  his 
liogly  answered 
cerning  bis  ideas 
ae  believed  the 
\o  looks  placidly 
J  man,  exposes  to 
,ch  cross  bis  path, 
the  soul  quits  its 
the  setting  sun, 
iner  agreeable  to 
^ng  over  the  agi- 
iilf.    It  then  be- 
,ge  of  the  Dead," 
le  pleasures  whicVi 

can  covet.    The 
habited  by  an  ad- 
•ossmaninallhis 
Ay  should  present 
lians  consider  it  as 
cirwcrfi;  they  ever 


after  assume  the  female  garb.  It  is  not  impossible  that 
this  may  have  been  the  source  of  the  num^i'ous  stories  of 
hermaphrodites,  related  by  all  the  old  writers  on  America. 

Wennebea  thought  that  the  Great  Spirit  had  a  human 
form,  was  white,  and  wore  a  hat.  It  is  remarkable  that 
this  personification  of  the  Supreme  Being  under  a  different 
appearance  from  their  own,  is  not  peculiar  to  the  Sauks ; 
the  Mexicans  and  the  Muypuscas  represented  him  as 
white,  and  wearing  a  beard ;  the  Santees,  according  to 
Lawson,  held  the  belief  that  he  was  white.  "  They  made 
answer,"  says  he,  "  that  they  had  been  conversing  with  the 
White  Man  above,  (meaning  God  Almighty.*)"  It  would 
be  curious  to  inquire  whether  there  was  any  connexion 
between  this  white  complexion  attributed  to  the  Deity, 
and  the  prophecies  which  are  said  to  have  prevailed  among 
some  of  the  Virginia  tribes,  as  well  as  at  Quizquiz  near  the 
Mississippi,  of  the  coming  of  white  men  among  them.t 

These  reported  prophecies,  existing  previous  to  the  disco- 
very of  this  continent,  (concerning  the  arrival  of  white  men,) 
are  represented  by  the  early  writers  as  very  common; 
whether  they  really  existed  in  the  country,  or  were  art- 
fully circulated  by  the  invaders,  may  be  a  matter  of  doubt. 
Montezuma,  in  a  speech  to  his  subjects,  in  the  presence  of 
Cortez,  is  said  to  have  alluded  to  this  subject.  An  old 
writer,  John  de  Laet,  reports  the  same  belief  to  have  been 
prevalent  in  the  island  of  Cozumel,  on  the  coast  of  Yu- 
catan, and  distant  from  it  about  four  leagues,  in  latitude 
30°  N.     This  author  enters  into  many  particulars  on  this 

•  A  New  Voyage  to  Carolina,  by  John  Lawscn.  London,  1709,  p.  20. 

t  Purchas's  Pilgrimage,  p.  843.  NaiTative  of  De  Soto's  Invasion  of 
Florida,  written  by  a  gentleman  of  Elvas,  and  translated  by  Hackluyt. 
I-ondon,  1609,  p,  90. 


su 


KXPBDITIOiH   TO    THE 


subject,  which  we  are  disposed  to  cuusider  as  altogether  of 
his  own  invention.* 

On  the  17th  of  June  our  route  was  diversified  by  hills 
and  valleys.  The  Smoky  mountain  to  the  east,  and  Du- 
buque's to  the  west,  formed  distinct  objects  of  vision,  while 
the  long  ridge,  covered  with  forests,  which  extended  to 
the  left,  indicated  the  course  of  the  "  Great  river,"  as  the 
Mississippi  has  been  emphatically  called  in  the  Algonquin 
languages. 

A  badger  was  this  day  discovered  by  the  dogs  in  the 
prairie,  and  after  they  had  brought  it  to  bay,  the  Indian 
killed  it  with  his  tomahawk ;  it  was  cooked  for  dinner,  and 
those  who  eat  of  it,  found  it  very  good.  This  was  near  a 
small  stream,  called  by  the  Indians  M^-k^&-b^-^^  S£p£,  or 
Small-pox  river ;  it  is  the  Riviere  de  la  Fievre,  which  is 
said  to  enter  the  Mississippi  opposite  to  Dubuque's  mines. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  the  sun  shone  indistinctly 
through  a  mist,  which  ofiered  us  the  singular  phenomenon 
of  a  beautiful  Iris  without  rain.  We  encamped  that  after- 
noon at  an  early  hour,  on  a  small  stream  which  is  a  tributary 
of  theWisconsan  and,  as  we  supposed^  at  a  distance  of  about 
twelve  miles  from  the  place  where  we  intended  to  cross 
that  river. 

The  next  morning,  after  a  fatiguing  ride  over  a  rough 
and  hilly  country,  we  reached  the  banks  of  the  Wisconsan; 
as  we  could  not  ford  it,  we  prepared  a  light  raft,  and  sent 
Bemis  across  to  obtain  boats  at  Fort  Crawford.  From  the 
account  of  our  guides,  we  thought  we  were  opposite  to  a 
point  in  the  river,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Petit  cap 
au  Gres^  (little  sand-stone  bluff,)  situated  about  six  miles 
above  the  confluence  of  the  Wisconsan  and  Mississippi; 


•Joannis   de  Laet,  Amerlcse  utriusque  Descriptlo. 
1633,  lib.  5,  cap.  27,  or  p.  273. 


I.ugd.  Bat. 


SOURCE    OF   ST.    PETER*S    RIVER. 


213 


lUogether  of 

ified  by  bills 
ast,  and  Du- 
:  vision,  while 
I  extended  to 
river,"  as  the 
Lhe  Algonquii 


e  dogs  in  the 
ay,  the  Indian 
for  dinner,  and 
rbis  was  near  a 
Ck'b^-'-^  Sip6,  or 
^ievrey  which  is 
ubuque's  mines, 
lone  indistinctly 
Liar  phenomenon 
imped  that  after- 
lich  is  a  tributary 
distance  of  about 
ntended  to  cross 

ae  over  a  rough 
f  theWisconsan; 
ght  raft,  and  sent 
vford.  From  the 
^ere  opposite  to  a 
,f  the  Petit  cap 
about  six  miles 
and  Mississippi? 

[cripfio.    I'Ugd.  B**** 


but  we  afterwards  found  that  we  were  nine  miles  higher 
than  our  guides  had  reported  us  to  be.  The  place  where 
we  encamped,  until  means  of  transportation  across  the  river 
could  be  procured,  was  in  a  wood  at  the  foot  of  a  high  and 
steep  bank ;  it  was  almost  the  only  dry  place  in  the  vici- 
nity, the  river  bank  above  and  below  it  being  swampy. 
The  river  was  about  a  third  of  a  mile  wide,  and  the  current 
very  rapid. 

About  sunset  we  observed  two  boats  advancing  up  the 
river,  in  one  of  which  Colonel  Morgan,  the  commanding 
officer  at  Fort  Crawford,  had  come  up  with  Lieutenant 
Scott  to  meet  our  party.  This  polite  attention  on  the  part 
of  the  Colonel  gave  us  a  foretaste  of  the  hospitable  recep- 
tion which  we  met  with  during  our  stay  in  his  quarters. 

Although  it  was  late,  yet  as  the  weather  was  fine,  the 
party  effected  a  crossing  of  the  Wisconsan,  and  having 
relieved  their  horses  of  all  unnecessary  baggage,  the  gentle- 
men proceeded  under  Colonel  Mc  rgan's  guidance  towards 
the  Fort  It  was  eight  o'clock  when  they  left  the  Wis- 
consan, and  about  eleven  when  they  reached  the  Missis- 
sippi. This  ride,  at  a  late  hour,  was  one  of  a  most  romantic 
character;  the  evening  was  fair  and  still;  not  a  breath 
of  wind  interrupted  the  calmness  of  the  scenery;  the 
moon  shone  in  her  full,  and  threw  a  pale  light  over  the 
trackless  course  which  we  travelled.  Our  way  lay  across 
a  beautiful  country,  where  steep  and  romantic  crags  con- 
trasted pleasantly  with  widely  extended  prairies,  which, 
seen  by  the  uncertain  light  of  the  moon,  appeared  to  spread 
around  like  a  sheet  of  water.  Our  party  was  sufficiently 
numerous  to  form  a  long  line,  which  assumed  a  more  im- 
posing character  from  the  dark  and  lengthened  shadows 
which  each  cast  behind  him.  All  seemed  to  have  their 
spirits  excited  by  the  sublimity  of  the  scene.     Even  the 


814 


BXPEniTTOV   TO    THE 


i 


fr   ■  ■   ■■ 


mw'^ 


Indian,  whose  occupations  must  have  accustomed  him  to 
such  excursions,  appeared  to  have  received  an  accession  of 
spirits,  and  the  loud  whoops  which  he  occasionally  gave, 
as  he  raised  the  summit  of  a  hill,  enlivened  the  ride.  Our 
course  was  a  winding  one  along  the  glens  which  divide  the 
bluffs;  and  whenever  we  rode  in  the  direction  of  the 
moon's  rays,  the  vivid  flashes  of  light,  reflected  by  our 
military  accoutrements,  contributed  to  impart  to  the  whole 
a  character  entirely  new  to  many  of  the  gentlemen  of  the 
expedition.  It  was  impossible  to  be  a  sharer  in  this  splen- 
did prospect,  without  joining  in  the  enthusiasm  to  which 
it  naturally  gave  rise;  and  however  much  disposed  the 
mind  may  be  at  such  an  hour,  and  in  such  a  solitude,  to 
recall,  with  deep  feeling,  the  image  of  abodes  endeared 
by  the  presence  of  far  distant  friends,  it  would  have 
been  impossible  for  any  one  of  us  to  wish  himself  at  that 
moment  on  any  other  spot,  but  in  the  deep  and  narrow  val- 
leys, or  on  the  smooth  prairies,  which  have  imparted  to  this 
portion  of  the  scenery  of  the  Mississippi,  a  character  of  sub- 
limity and  beauty,  which  we  would  perhaps  vainly  seek 
for  on  any  other  point  of  the  long  extended  course  of  the 
«  Father  of  Rivers." 

At  Prairie  du  Chien  we  sojourned  for  five  days ;  the  ob- 
ject of  this  delay  was  to  obtain  the  escort  which  was  to 
accompany  the  party  up  the  St.  Peter.  While  Major 
Long's  attention  was  engaged  in  superintending  these  pre- 
parations, the  gentlemen  attended  to  their  respective 
departments.  The  distance  from  Chicago  to  Prairie  du 
Chien,  by  the  route  which  the  party  travelled,  is  two 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  miles,  which,  having  been  per- 
formed in  nine  days,  give  an  average  of  twenty-five  miles 
per  day.  No  person  had  ever  gone  through  this  route  in  a 
direct  line  before  wo  did,  which  is  surprising,  when  we 


SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETSR's    RIVER. 


215 


lined  him  to 
1  accession  of 
ionally  gave, 
he  ride.   Our 
ich  divide  the 
ection  of  the 
ected  by  our 
rt  to  the  whole 
ntlemen  of  the 
r  in  this  splen- 
jiasm  to  which 
\i  disposed  the 

a  solitude,  to 
bodes  endeared 
it  would  have 
himself  at  that 
and  narrow  val- 
imparted  to  this 
character  of  sub- 
taps  vainly  seek 

id  course  of  the 

ve  days-,  the  ob- 
which  was  to 
While  Major 
inding  these  pre- 
their   respective 
ro  to  Prairie  du 
ravelled,  is  two 
laving  been  per- 
wenty-five  miles 
fh  this  route  in  a 
'ising,  when  we 


consider  the  extent  and  antiquity  of  the  trade  carried  on 
in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  the  facilities  which  the 
route  affords.  On  no  part  of  our  journey  have  we  trav  ^1- 
led  with  more  comfort  to  ourselves,  the  soil  being  dry  and 
firm,  well  watered,  and  sufficiently  interapersed  with  woods 
to  afford  us  a  constant  supply  of  this  article  for  fuel ;  the 
grass  is  generally  fine,  so  that  our  horses  fared  well ;  the 
country  only  became  rough  as  we  approached  the  Wiscon- 
san.  This  river,  like  the  Ohio,  seems  to  unite  with  the 
Mississippi  in  a  hilly  country;  the  hills  rise  to  the 
height  of  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet ; 
their  sides  are  abrupt,  and  their  soil  is  but  indifferent. 
The  Wisconsan  has  been,  for  a  long  time  past,  the  usual 
communication  between  the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi. 
About  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Wisconsan,  this  river  comes  so  near  to  the  Fox  river  of 
Greenbay,  that  a  portage  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  yards, 
across  a  low  and  level  prairie  which  is  occasionally  over- 
flowed, establishes  a  connection  between  the  two  streams. 
From  the  portage  down  to  the  mouth  of  Fox  river  in  the 
Greenbay  of  Lake  Michigan,  the  distance  is  computed  at 
from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  one  hundred  and  eighty 
miles.  The  Wisconsan  river,  which  takes  its  rise  near  the 
.lills  of  the  same  name,  extends  at  least  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  above  the  portage.  It  is  represented  as  having, 
throughout  its  course,  a  rapid  current,  and  but  a  shallow 
channel,  from  which  circumstances  the  ascent  is  difficult 
and  troublesome.  Fox  river  is  formed  by  the  union  of  two 
branches,  one  of  which  rises  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
portage  road ;  its  course,  which  is  at  first  westwardly,  soon 
takes  a  general  easterly  direction,  but  the  river  is  at  all 
times  very  crooked;  it  falls  into  Greenbay  near  Fort 
Howard. 


216 


EXPEDITION    TO   TU4!  "  ^.« 


The  country,  througli  which  these  rivers  pass,  is  inhabit- 
ed by  the  Menomoncs,  VVinnebagoos,  Sauks,  and  Foxes, 
but  principally  by  the  two  first  mentioned  nations;  the  Me- 
nomones  being  chiefly  found  near  the  mouth  of  Fox  river, 
and  the  Winnebagoes  near  the  portage  road,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  lake  which  bears  their  name.  The  latter  arc 
considered  as  being  of  distinct  origin  from  the  Algonquin 
tribes;  their  language  is  said  to  present  much  greater  diffi- 
culties. It  abounds  in  harsh  and  guttural  sounds,  and  in  the 
letter  r,  which  does  not  appear  to  be  common  in  the  Al- 
gonquin languages.  We  have  already  had  occasion  to  ad- 
vert to  the  termination  in  ra,  added  to  many  of  the  words 
by  the  Winnebago  whom  we  saw  on  the  Pektannon.  It 
is  difficult  to  obtain  correct  information  concerning  their 
manners  and  characters,  as  a  strong  prejudice  appears  to 
prevail  against  them.  They  are  considered  unfriendly  to 
white  men,  and  this,  instead  of  being  viewed  in  the  light 
of  a  favourable  trait  in  their  character,  as  indicative  of  a 
high  spirit,  which  can  resent  injustice  and  oppression,  and 
which  will  not  crouch  before  the  aggresssor,  has  been  the 
occasion  of  much  ill  will  towards  them ;  they  have  been, 
probably  without  cause,  charged  with  many  offences  which 
they  (id  not  commit  If  we  can  place  any  lependencc 
upon  tne  character  given  to  them  by  Carver,  we  should 
consider  them  as  no  worse  than  othe/  Indians ;  indeed  his 
acquaintance  with  them  appears  to  have  left  a  favourable  im- 
pression upon  his  mind.  Their  appellation  in  their  own 
language,  is  believed  to  be  Otchagras ;  whence  the  term 
Winnebago  has  been  derived  wu  have  not  been  able  to  as- 
certain, not  having  met  with  it  in  any  author  prior  to  Car- 
ver. By  the  French  they  were  called  Puants  or  Stinkers, 
which  name  is  attributed  by  Charlevoix,  to  their  feeding 
principally  upon  fish.     "  I  judge,"  says  he,  "  it  was  there, 


!iJ*rfS-^ 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETEli's    RIVEH. 


217 


(on  the  borders  of  a  lake,)  that  living  on  fish,  which  they 
got  in  the  lake  in  p;reat  plenty,  they  gave  them  the  name  of 
PuantSf  because  all  along  the  shore  where  their  cabins  are 
built,  one  saw  nothing  but  stinking  fish  which  infected  the 


air. 


» 


In  a  manuscript  narrative  of  a  journey  from  Bellefon- 
taine  on  the  Missouri  to  the  Falls  of  St  Anthony,  and  to 
the  Wisconsan  portage,  performed  in  1817,  by  Major  Long, 
we  have  observed  the  following  account  of  their  mode  of 
conveying  information  by  a  sort  of  hieroglyphic  writing. 

"  When  we  stopped,"  says  Major  Long,  "  to  dine, 
White  Thunder,  (the  Winnebago  chief  that  accompanied 
me,)  suspecting  that  the  rest  of  his  party  were  in  the 
neighbourhood,  requested  a  piece  of  paper,  pen  and  ink,  to 
communicate  to  them  the  intelligence  of  his  having  come 
up  with  me.  He  then  seated  himself  and  drew  three  rude 
figures,  which  at  my  request  he  explained  to  me.  The  first 
represented  my  boat  with  a  mast  and  flag,  with  three 
benches  of  oars  and  a  helmsman ;  to  show  that  we  were 
Americans,  our  heads  were  represented  by  a  rude  cross, 
indicating  that  we  wore  hats.  The  representation  of  him- 
self was  a  rude  figure  of  a  bear  over  a  kind  of  cypher  re- 
presenting a  hunting  ground.  The  second  figure  was  de- 
signed to  show  that  his  wife  was  with  him ;  the  device 
was  a  boat  with  a  squaw  seated  in  it ;  over  her  head  lines 
^ere  drawn  in  a  zigzag  direction,  indicating  that  she  was 
the  wife  of  White  Thunder.  The  third  was  a  boat  witli  a 
bear  sitting  at  the  helm,  showing  that  an  Indian  of  that 
name  had  been  seen  on  his  way  up  the  river,  and  had  given 
intelligence,  where  the  party  were.  This  paper  he  set  up 
at  the  mouth  of  Kickapoo  creek,  up  which  the  party  had 
gone  on  a  hunting  trip."* 

•  Major  Long's  MS.  Journal  of  a  voyage,  &c.  1817,  No.  1,  folio  27- 
Vol.  L  28 


r.\ 

,^ 

„;.  'ri 

;il 

■-.<•■ 

■j> 

f    i  :'it 

^!r 

4-. 

■■iJ 

■  ?li 

1' 

■'t.-iH 

■;)' 

i)' 
t 

: 

318 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


impi 


^  'i-i    f    '< 

y.tf 


(I  »' 


Lli-J 


While  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  we  endeavoured  to  obtaiH 
from  Wennebea  as  much  information  as  we  could  concern- 
ing his  nation ;  and  this,  together  with  the  notices  collected 
from  him  and  Le  Sellier  during  the  journey,  constitutes 
the  basis  of  the  following  account  of  the  manners  of  the 
Sauks.  As  they  are  evidently  of  Algonquin  origin,  and 
therefore  connected  with  the  Potawatomis,  we  have  only 
retained  such  parts  of  the  information  as  had  not  been 
mentioned  before,  or  in  which  a  diflference  was  observed 
between  the  two  nations. 

The  Sauks  call  themselves  in  their  own  language,  S^k-k6- 
v/^L  They  are  a  brave,  warlike,  and,  as  far  as  we 
could  learn,  a  generous  people.  The  great  reduction  in 
their  numbers  arose  from  their  hostility  to  the  French  and 
their  allies,  and  also  to  the  wars  which  they  formerly 
waged  against  the  Indians  on  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi, 
such  as  the  Pawnees,  the  Omawhaws,  the  Sioux,  the  lowas, 
&c.  Owing  to  the  rapid  advance  of  the  white  population, 
and  the  increasing  influence  of  our  government  over  them, 
they  are  becoming  more  peaceable,  and  from  this  circum- 
stance their  numbers  are  probably  on  the  increase.  Their 
historical  recollections  do  not  extend  far  back ;  but  they  have 
been  told  that  about  sixty  years  since,  when  the  French 
occupied  the  country,  one  of  the  Sauk  chiefs  by  the  name 
of  M6-n6-tA-m6t,  found  himself  surrounded  with  about  sixty 
of  his  nation  by  a  party  of  French  and  Indians,  belonging 
to  other  tribes,  amounting  altogether  to  two  thousand. 
Menetomet  then  addressed  his  men,  bidding  them  not  to 
fear,  for  he  had  been  favoured  with  a  vision  from  the  Great 
Spirit  that  informed  him  that  if  they  all  fought  bravely,  not 
one  of  them  should  perish.  Encouraged  by  this  assertion, 
they  fought  with  such  desperation  as  to  break  the  ranks  of 
their  assailants,  and  escape  without  the  loss  of  a  single  man. 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETER's    RIVEH. 


219 


They  were  afterwards  led  by  their  chiefs  towards  the  Butte 
de  Mort  on  Fox  river,  and  were  on  the  point  of  being  cut  off 
by  their  enemies,  when  a  peace  was  effected  by  the  inter- 
vention of  a  French  oiEcer.     Wennebea  informed  us  that 
his  grandfather  was  in  this  party ;  had  it  been  cut  off  the 
nation  would,  as  he  thinks,  have  been  totally  annihilated ; 
for  these  composed  the  whole  force  of  the  Sauks.     Their 
numbers  have  since  considerably  increased,  as  according 
to  his  estimate,  the  nation  now  consists  of  upwards  of  a 
thousand  warriors ;  in  this  number  are  included  all  the  ac- 
tive, able-bodied,  and  middle  aged  part  of  the  nation.  This 
great  accession  to  their  numbers,  results  principally  from 
their  system  of  adopting  their  prisoners  of  war.     The  real 
number  of  warriors  of  pure  Sauk  extraction  does  not,  in  his 
opinion,  exceed  two  hundred.  The  Fox  nation,  which  ap- 
pears to  be  very  closely  united  with  the  Sauk,  was  at  that 
time  likewise  much  reduced  ;  it  is  stated  that  at  one  time 
there  were  but  three  lodges  of  Fox  Indians  left;  these  re- 
ports are  probably  in  some  respects  exaggerated.  The  system 
of  adoption  seems  to  be  carried  to  a  great  extent,  and  the 
duties  which  it  involves  are  of  a  peculiar  character ;  it 
seems  to  have  in  a  great  measure  stifled  all  patriotism  and 
attachment  to  their  kin.     It  is  true,  that  men,  reputed 
good  among  them,  ought  not  to  wander  from  tribe  to  tribe, 
nor  from  village  to  village ;  neither  is  it  prudent  for  them 
to  do  so,  for  in  case  of  hostilities  breaking  out,  the  new 
comers  would  always  be  the  first  sacrificed.     If  a  man 
should  marry  in  a  different  nation  from  his  own,  he  conti- 
nues to  live  with  his  wife's  nation  as  long  as  they  remain  at 
peace,  but  should  a  war  be  declared  he  must  leave  his 
wife  and  return  to  his  tribe.     This  does  not,  however,  ap- 
ply to  one   who  has  been  made  prisoner;   if  a  captive 
be  adopted  as  one  of  the  nation  of  his  captors,  he  must  for- 


220 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


sake  all  his  former  ties ;  he  settles  in  the  nation  that  adopts 
him,  forfeits  all  allegiance  to  his  native  tribe,  and  contracts 
new  obligations.  It  is  his  duty,  in  case  of  hostilities,  to  side 
with  his  new  friends  agaius.L  his  old  ones ;  it  becomes  even 
proper  for  him  to  do  all  in  his  power  to  promote  the  views 
of  his  adopted  nation,  by  killing  as  many  of  their  enemies 
as  he  can ;  he  may  even,  (and  it  is  his  duty  to  do  it,)  kill  his 
own  father,  and,  as  ouii||uide  added,  "  nay  even  his  grand- 
father." In  so  doing  he  is  not  thought  to  violate  any  of 
the  obligations  of  nature,  for  his  adoption  has  altogether 
canc^^Ued  his  former  bonds.  The  expression  of  Wenne- 
bea,  "  nay  even  his  grandfather,"  cannot  surprise  those 
who  have  visited  the  Sauks,  or  studied  to  make  themselves 
acquainted  with  their  peculiarities,  as  one  of  their  most 
striking  precepts  is  that  the  more  distant,  in  the  ascending 
line,  a  parent  is,  the  more  is  he  entitled  to  respect  and  af- 
fection ;  hence  the  killing  of  a  grandfather  would,  under 
common  circumstances,  be  considered  as  far  more  atrocious 
than  the  murder  of  a  father. 

To  this  high  opinion  of  the  duties  incumbent  upon 
adopted  citizens,  and  to  the  general  humanity  which  in- 
duces them  to  spare  the  lives  of  their  prisoners,  we  may 
safely  attribute  the  great  accession  of  numbers  which  their 
nation  has  undergone  within  the  last  century.  The  Sauks 
have  not  always  resided  where  they  are  at  present  found. 
Their  recollection  is  that  they  formerly  lived  upon  Sa- 
ganaw  Bay  of  Lake  Huron,  and  that  about  fifty  years 
since  they  removed,  by  the  way  of  Greenbay,  from  the 
lake  shore  to  their  present  abode.  They  seem  to  consi- 
der the  name  of  their  nation  to  be  connected  with  that 
of  Saganaw  Bay,  and  probably  derived  from  it.  They 
have  no  account  of  any  former  migration,  but  entertain  the 
opinion  that  the  Great  Spirit  created  them  in  that  vicinity. 


T" 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER'S    RIVER. 


221 


With  a  vJew  to  ascertain  what  were  their  ideas  of  moral 
excellence,  we  asked  Wennebea  what,  in  their  opinion,  con- 
stituted a  good  man.  He  immediately  replied,  that  in 
order  to  be  entitled  to  this  appellation,  an  Indian  ought  to 
be  mild  in  his  manners,  affable  to  all,  and  particularly  so  to 
his  squaw.  His  hospitality  ought  to  be  boundless ;  his  cabin, 
as  well  as  all  that  he  cai>  procure,  should  be  at  the  disposal 
of  any  one  who  visits  hini.  Should  he  receive  presents,  he 
ought  to  divide  them  among  the  young  men  of  his  tribe, 
reserving  no  share  for  himself.  But  what  he  chiefly  con- 
sidered as  characteristic  of  a  good  man,  was  to  be  mild  and 
not  quarrelsome  when  intoxicated.  A  good  man  should 
keep  as  many  wives  as  he  can  support,  for  this  will  enable 
him  to  extend  his  hospitality  more  freely  than  if  he  have 
but  one  wife.  Being  asked  whether  by  this  he  meant  that 
an  Indian  should  oflfer  his  squaw  to  strangers,  as  is  practised 
by  the  Missouri  nations,  he  replied  that  no  man  of  any 
feeling  couid  do  such  a  thing ;  he  thought  there  was  no 
man  so  base  as  to  be  guilty  of  this.  Adultery  is  strictly 
prohibited;  so  also  is  an  indiscriminate  intercourse  of 
sexes.  No  good  man  would  encourage  it,  or  partake  in  it ; 
for  men  were  not  made  like  dogs  for  promiscuous  inter- 
course ;  but  there  are  some  women,  whose  passions  are  not 
controlled  by  reason,  and  these  will  always  find  men  disposed 
to  share  in  their  shame ;  no  good  man  would  however  do 
so.  Neither  would  a  virtuous  man  always  put  away  his 
wife  for  adultery;  he  ought  to  admonish  and  reprove 
her.  Should  she  continue  in  her  evil  practices,  then 
he  will  be  justifiable  In  discarding,  or  punishing  her. 
There  are  among  the  Sauks  some  men  so  base  that  they 
will  throw  ofi*  their  male  garments,  assume  those  of  females, 
and  parform  all  the  drudgery  allotted  to  the  latter  sex, 
becoming  real  cinsedi.  They  are  always  held  in  contempt. 


222 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


p- 


though  by  some  they  are  pitied,  as  labouring  under  an  un- 
fortunate destiny  which  they  cannot  avoid,  being  supposed 
to  be  impelled  to  this  course  by  a  vision  from  the  female 
spirit  that  resides  in  the  moon.     Upon  the  subject  of  in- 
toxication, Wennebea  spoke  with  much  feeling  and  philo- 
sophy.    "Intoxication,"  said  he,  "is  a  bad  thing;  the  In- 
dian has  been  seduced  to  it  by  the  white  man ;  when  our 
forefathers  were  first  offeied  liquor  they  declined  it;  for 
they  had  seen  its  evil  effects  upon  white  men.     At  last 
two  old  men  were  bribed  to  taste  it;  they  liked  it  and 
took  more ;  they  were  then  affected  by  it,  their  language 
became  more  voluble;  they  were  merry  in  their  wine. 
Pleased  with  the  experiment  they  repeated  it,  and  induced 
two  others  to  join  them ;  thus  did  the  evil  spread  gradu- 
ally.   To  drink  a  little  is  not  improper,  but  to  drink  to  in- 
toxication is  not  right ;  our  ancestors  have  forbidden  us  to 
do  it.    You,  white  men,  can  take  a  little  and  refrain  from 
more;  while  the  red  man   follows  but  the  impulse  of 
his  feelings ;  if  he  takes  a  little,  he  requires  more,  and  will 
have  it  if  he  can  get  at  it  in  any  way.     You  encourage  us 
in  this  practice;  your  agents,  your  traders,  instead  of 
withholding  it,  offer  it  to  us,  make  us  take  it,  and  when  we 
have  had  a  little  we  lose  all  control  over  ourselves.  We  had 
no  intoxicating  draughts  before  the  white  man  came  among 
us,  and  we  were  better  men ;  this  has  been  the  ruin  of  us ; 
all  our  broils  and  our  quarrels   spring  from  intoxica- 
tion; some  of  our  women  take  to  liquor;  they  lose  all 
shame,  and  become  common.*'     It  is  melancholy  to  think 
of  the  truth  contained  in  these  words;  not  only  do  our  tra- 
ders, in  violation  of  all  law,  sell  or  give  liquor  to  the  In- 
dians, but  even  the  agents  frequently  give  them  some 
when  they  visit  the  forts,  either  to  keep  up  a  sort  of  popu- 
larity among  them,  or  to  rid  themselves  of  their  impor- 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER  S    RIVER. 


223 


5  under  an  un- 
eing  supposed 
im  the  female 
subject  of  in- 
ing  and  philo- 
thing;  the  In- 
an;  when  our 
jclined  it;  for 
men.     At  last 
«y  liked  it  and 
their  language 
in  their  wine, 
it,  and  induced 
il  spread  gradu- 
to  drink  to  in- 
forbidden  us  to 
id  refrain  from 
the  impulse  of 
}  more,  and  will 
>u  encourage  us 
lers,  instead  of 
it,  and  when  we 
•selves.  We  had 
nan  came  among 
the  ruin  of  us; 
from  intoxica- 
r;  they  lose  all 
ncholy  to  think 
only  do  our  tra- 
quor  to  the  In- 
live  them  some 
a  sort  of  popu- 
of  their  impor- 


tunities, thus  encouraging  this  fatal  propensity,  instead  of 
checking  it  altogether.  In  this  respect  the  Jesuits  were 
wiser  if  noc  more  humane  than  our  countrymen,  since  they 
are  reported  by  Grangula,  an  Iroquois  chief,  "  to  stave  all 
the  barrels  of  brandy  that  are  brought  to  our  cantons,  lest 
the  people  getting  drunk,  should  knock  them  in  the 
head."* 

It  is  the  duty  of  a  good  Indian  to  offer,  on  many  occa- 
sions, sacrifices  to  the  Master  of  Life ;  he  ought  to  give 
feasts  frequently,  and  expose  the  skins  of  white  deer  upon 
trees,  as  an  offering  to  the  Great  Spirit.  In  such  cases  he 
never  partakes  of  the  entertainment  himself ;  but  his  friends 
eat  it  all  up,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  part  which  is 
thrown  into  the  fire.  The  business  of  men  consists  in  hunt- 
ing, fighting,  building  their  lodges,  digging  their  canoes, 
taking  care  of  their  horses,  making  wooden  spoons,  &c. ; 
while  it  is  the  duty  of  women  to  hew  wood,  to  carry  water, 
to  plant  and  raise  corn,  to  take  care  of  their  families,  and,  in 
the  absence  of  the  men,  they  must  attend  to  their  horses,  build 
their  lodges,  &c.  Man's  chief  and  best  occupation  is  hunting; 
he  will  never  fight  unless  aggrieved  by  his  enemies,  in  which 
case  it  becomes  his  duty  to  resent  the  injury.  A  good  hunter 
is  held  in  high  esteem  and  will  obtain  as  many  wives  as  he 
chooses,  because  they  know  that  he  can  support  them,  but 
the  good  warrior  is  esteemed  the  first  man  in  the  nation. 

A  woman,  in  order  to  deserve  the  appellation  of  good, 
ought  to  be  endued  with  most  of  the  qualities  which  con- 
stitute virtue  among  civilized  females.  To  be  obedient  and 
affectionate  to  her  husband  is  her  first  duty.  Kind  to 
all  her  children,  partial  to  none ;  affable  and  courteous  to 

•  **Lahontan*s  new  Voyages  to  North  America,  done  Into  Engfl'ish, 
London,  1703.'*  Vol.  1,  p.  40. 


224 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


all  men,  avoiding,  however,  the  appearance  of  familiarj'' 
with  any.  Her  chastity  should  be  inviolate,  even  at  me 
risk  of  death;  she  ought  to  be  industrious,  in  order  that 
her  husband  may  be  wealthy,  and  able  to  extend  his  hos- 
pitality widely.  When  asked  what  were  the  qualifications 
which  were  most  sought  after  in  the  selection  of  a  wife, 
and  if  beauty  had  any  influence,  Wennebea  replied,  that 
they  cared  but  little  for  a  handsome  wife,  their  object  be- 
ing to  get  a  good  one,  who  could  attend  to  all  their  work, 
and  behave  herself  as  became  a  good  woman.  "  We  are  not 
absolutely  regardless  of  beauty,"  said  he,  ^'but  we  think  it 
a  trifling  acquirement  compared  with  goodness,  and  there- 
fore pay  but  little  attention  to  itj  some  young  men  arc 
foolish  and  attend  to  it,  but  these  are  few,  and  they  soon 
learn  to  take  good  wives,  without  minding  their  charms.'' 
Being  asked  what  constituted  female  beauty,  he  laughed  and 
said,  a  light  complexion,  large  hazel  eyes,  a  well-formed 
nose,  red  lips,  and  a  figure  rather  small  and  well  propor- 
tioned ;  they  seem  to  have  a  dislike  to  very  fat  women. 
When  questioned  as  to  other  points  of  beauty,  he  seemed 
not  to  have  made  a  study  of  them ;  their  faces,  he  said,  might 
be  more  or  less  handsome,  but  in  other  respects  women 
were  all  the  same.  Feeling  a  little  encouraged,  he  conti- 
nued in  a  strain  so  obscene,  as  even  to  put  to  the  blush  our 
old  interpreter,  Le  Sellier ;  which,  for  a  Canadian  trader, 
might  be  supposed  not  to  be  an  easy  thing. 

It  was  impossible  not  to  observe  in  the  general  tenour 
of  Wennebea's  conversation  that  he  admitted  a  superiority 
on  the  part  of  white  men  over  Indians,  at  least  in  foresight, 
judgment,  and  capacity  to  acquire  information.  Wennebea 
thought  that  when  the  Master  of  Life  made  the  white  man, 
he  gave  him  the  power  to  improve  in  knowledge  and  the  arts ; 
he  taught  him  how  to  manufacture  all  the  articles  that  he 


soiTRCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


225 


wanted,  such  as  cloth,  guns,  &c.  To  the  red  man  he  gave 
nothing  but  his  bow  and  his  dog ;  intending  him  therefore 
for  no  other  occupation  than  that  of  hunting.  This  appear- 
ed to  be  a  favourite  idea  with  Wennebea ;  he  frequently 
dwelt  upon  this  partition  of  the  good  things  of  the  earth,  in 
which  the  poor  Indian  had  received  but  his  bow  and  his 
faithful  dog.  It  was  not  alluded  to  in  the  spirit  of  com- 
plaint or  as  a  hardship,  but  merely  in  support  of  a  deep 
conviction  on  his  part,  that,  while  the  white  man  was  made 
capable  of  improvement  in  the  arts,  the  red  man  was  pre- 
destined to  remain  stationary,  and  to  live  by  hunting,  for 
which  alone  he  had  received,  from  the  All-ruling  Spirit,  natu- 
ral advantages.  We  related  to  him  the  belief  entertained  by 
other  Indians,  who  justify  their  hunting  life  by  saying 
that,  in  the  origin,  God  divided  all  animals  equally  be- 
tween the  red  and  the  white  man ;  and  that  while  the 
latter  took  great  care  of  his  share,  the  former  merely 
wrapped  his  up,  loosely,  in  his  blanket,  and  having  left  it  for 
a  while,  he  found  on  his  return  that  all  the  animals  be- 
longing to  him  had  escaped  into  the  woods :  it  was  there- 
fore to  recover  his  lost  property  that  he  had  addicted  himself 
to  hunting.  Wennebea  observed  that  he  had  never  heard  of 
this  belief  before ;  but  he  thought,  if  it  were  true,  it  was  a 
wise  decree  of  the  Master  of  Life,  for,  he  added,  if  the  In- 
dian had  not  suffered  his  share  to  escs|>e  into  the  -Woods, 
he  would  have  destroyed  and  wasted  it  in  a  short  time, 
and  been  ever  after  left  to  starve,  as  he  wants  the  provi- 
dent care  of  the  white  man ;  but  as  it  is  at  present,  the  In- 
dian can  only  use  his  property  gradually  and  according  as 
his  wants  require  it. 

Wennebea  declined  entering  upon  any  particulars  re- 
lating to  their  belief  in  after  life,  being  apprehensive  that 
any  conversation  on  that  subject  would  disturb  the  quiet 

Vol.  I.  29 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


of  his  departed  relations.  According  to  Le  Sellier,he  makes 
a  difference  between  the  soul  and  the  spirit ;  the  former 
being  probably  in  his  opinion  nothing  else  but  the  princi- 
ple of  vitality  ;  its  seat  is  in  the  heart ;  all  animals  are  gifted 
with  souls,  as  they  are  endowed  with  vitality.  He  believes 
that  the  soul  alone  goes  to  the  other  world  ;  the  body  decays 
after  death.  We  observed  in  him,  and  in  all  the  Indians 
whom  we  met  with,  that  they  entertained  not  the  least  be- 
lief of  the  resurrection  of  the  body,  as  has  been  asserted  oi 
them  by  some  authors ;  while  they  generally  appeared  to 
be  convinced  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul  or  spirit,  and 
of  an  after  existence. 

The  Indians  are  particular  in  their  demonstrations  of 
grief  for  departed  friends.  These  consist  in  darkening 
their  faces  with  charcoal,  fasting,  abstaining  from  the  use 
of  vermilion  and  other  ornaments  in  dress,  &c.  They  also 
make  incisions  in  their  arms,  legs,  and  other  parts  of  the 
body ;  these  are  not  made  for  the  purposes  of  mortification, 
or  to  create  a  pain,  which  shall,  by  dividing  their  attention, 
efface  the  recollection  of  their  loss,  but  entirely  from  a  be- 
lief that  their  grief  is  internal,  and  that  the  only  way  of 
dispelling  it  is  to  give  it  a  vent  through  which  to  escape. 
Their  outward  signs  of  grief  are  not  merely  of  a  tempo- 
rary kind ;  they  ard  more  lasting  than  among  those  who 
consider  themselves  as  higher  in  the  scale  of  refine- 
ment than  the  red  man.  Wennebea  observed  that  he  had 
abstained,  for  the  last  fifteen  years,  from  the  use  of  vermi- 
lion on  account  of  the  loss  of  a  valued  friend,  and  he  meant 
to  persist  in  this  practice  for  ten  years  longer ;  the  de- 
ceasod  was  no  relation,  merely  a  friend.  Public  opi- 
nion requires  of  them  some  mourning  for  departed  rela- 
tions, but  the  Indian  graduates  his  expressions  of  grijef  ac- 
cording to  the  value  ia  which  he  held  the  deceased,  not 


souHCE  oj?  ST.  Peter's  river. 


M7 


according  to  the  mere  relation  in  which  nature  or  accident 
placed  him  in  life ;  for  his  friend  he  entertains  a  feeling 
deep,  warm,  and  unalterable.  Their  friendship  is  seldom 
divided  between  two  objects,  hence  they  have  not  those 
bands  of  brothers  which  are  stated  by  Lewis  and  Clarke 
to  exist  among  some  of  the  tribes  they  visited ;  but  the 
adoption  of  a  brother  is  very  common  with  them ;  it 
is  always  founded  upon  sincere  friendship  ;  and  in  the  ex- 
posed and  wandering  life  of  the  Indian,  opportunities  are 
not  wanting  to  display  the  extent  of  this  feeling.  An  In- 
dian will  willingly  endanger  his  existence  to  save  the  life 
of  his  adopted  brother ;  and  should  one  of  the  two  be  kihed, 
there  is  no  duty  more  strongly  enjoined  upon  the  survivor,  or 
which  he  more  willingly  discharges,  even  at  the  risk  of  much 
personal  danger,  than  that  of  avenging  his  friend's  death. 

Against  the  charge  of  cannibalism,  Wennebea  defended 
his  nation  with  considerable  zeal.  This  practice,  he  ad- 
mitted, existed  among  the  Winnebagoes,  Chippewas,  Da- 
cotas,  and  other  Indians,  but  he  denied  its  ever  occurring 
Smong  the  Sauks,  except  in  a  few  instances,  in  which  per- 
sons that  were  very  lean  and  thin  would  eat  a  small  piece 
of  the  human  heart,  together  with  other  medicines,  in  or- 
der to  fatten  themselves.  When  asked  whether  this  must 
not  be  considered  as  offensive  to  the  Deity,  he  replied  that 
he  knew  not,  he  had  never  held  converse  with  the  Great 
Spirit ;  he  had  heard  other  men  say  that  they  had  enjoyed 
visions,  and  conversations  of  this  kind,  but,  for  his  part,  he 
never  credited  them. 

Suicide  is,  according  to  Wennebea,  common  among  the 
Sauks,  more  so  with  women  than  men.  Grief  and  jealousy 
appear  to  be  the  predisposing  causes  with  women,  and 
envy,  at  the  power  or  consequence  of  others,  is  the  mo- 
live  which  impels  men  to  this  deed.     Our  guide,  whose 


226 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


simple  system  of  ethics  agrees  better  with  that  of  the  white 
man  than  is  generally  admitted,  considers  suicide  as  an 
improper  act;  it  does  not  appear  to  him  to  accord  with  the 
wishes  of  the  Great  Spirit;  he  '  .at  gave  us  life,  says 
Wennebea,  has  alone  the  po^ver  of  taking  it  away. 

Music  seemed  to  have  a  powerful  effect  upon  him,  and 
particularly  martial  music ;  he  expressed  himself  in  enthu- 
siastic terms  on  the  subject;  while  at  Fort  Crawford  lie 
seemed  delighted  with  the  reveille.  The  bugle  was  his  fa- 
vourite instrument.  When  asked  why  he  preferred  it,  his 
answer  was,  that  its  notes  were  so  fine,  he  fancied  they 
must  reach  the  ear  of  the  Great  Spirit  himself;  whenever 
the  sound  of  the  bugle  was  heard,  his  attention  was  imme- 
diately directed  to  it ;  his  eyes  sparkled  and  his  language 
became  more  animated. 

The  principal  disease  of  the  Sauks  is  one,  the  nature  of 
which  we  could  not  well  ascertain  from  his  description  of 
it ;  it  is  different  from  dysentery,  (being  at  all  times  unat- 
tended by  bloody  discharges ;)  neither  is  it  the  hemorrhoids 
or  hernia.  It  appears  to  be  a  mortification  of  the  intestinal 
canal  or  duct,  which  is  brought  on  by  the  use  of  green  corn, 
unripe  fruits  and  vegetables,  &c. ;  it  is  more  common 
among  men  than  women.  If  timely  remedies  be  not  ap- 
plied, it  proves  fatal  in  the  course  of  four  days ;  the  dis- 
ease is  unaccompanied  by  pain.  He  declined  mentioning 
the  remedies  which  have  been  successfully  applied,  as 
he  entertains  the  common  superstition  on  this  subject. 

Intermittents  appear  to  be  very  prevalent.  The 
small-pox  has  been  known  at  different  periods ;  oui- 
guide,  who  is  about  thirty-five  years  of  age,  recollects  two 
periods,  but  does  not  know  at  what  interval  of  time  they 
happened ;  it  is  thought  that  it  will  shortly  recur  among  them. 
Of  parturition  and  gestation^  his  account  agreed  with  that 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETEH  S    RIVER. 


229 


ofthe  whitu 
licidc  as  an 
orcl  with  the 
js  life,  says 
way. 

on  him,  and 
self  in  enthu- 
Crawford  he 
le  was  his  fa- 
Bferred  it,  his 
!  fancied  they 
;lf ;  whenever 
3n  was  imme- 
l  his  language 

the  nature  of 
description  of 
ill  times  unat- 
e  hemorrhoids 
■  the  intestinal 
of  green  corn, 
nore  common 
ies  be  not  ap- 
days;  the  dis- 
id  mentioning 
y   applied,  as 
is  subject, 
ivalent.      The 
periods;    our 
recollects  two 
l1  of  time  they 
ir  among  them, 
reed  with  that 


obtained  at  Chicago ;  being  asiced  how  long  the  pains  of  la- 
bour endured  among  women,  he  said  they'varicd,  sometimes 
four  days,  at  other  times  two  days  or  ^ess,  and  in  some  cases 
scarcely  long  enough  to  give  a  man  time  to  smoke  a  pipe . 

We  shall  close  this  protracted  account  of  Wennebea's 
information,  with  an  anecdote  which  appears  to  us  to  con- 
nect itself  with  a  point  of  some  interest  in  our  history ;  it 
was  related  to  us  spontaneously  by  Wennebea,  and  having 
been  written  down  in  his  own  words,  shows  the  strain  of 
ideas,  of  which  he  was  susceptible. 

"  You  know,"  said  he,  "  that  we  always  carry  medicine 
bags  about  us,  and  that  in  these  we  pi  >ce  the  highest  con- 
fidence ;  that  we  take  them  when  we  go  to  war ;  that  we 
administer  of  their  contents  to  our  relations  when  sick, 
&c.  The  great  veneration  in  which  we  hold  them,  arises 
from  our  deeming  them  indispensable  to  obtain  success 
against  our  enemies.  They  have  been  transmitted  to  us 
by  our  forefathers,  who  received  them  at  the  hands  of  the 
Great  Master  of  Life  himself.  We  never  venture  upon  a 
warlike  undertaking  unless,  by  their  means,  our  chiefs 
should  have  previously  had  visions,  advising  them  to  do  so. 
When  we  are  near  to  our  enemies,  they  impart  to  us  the 
faculty  of  beholding,  in  the  heavens,  great  fires  passing  from 
one  cloud  to  another.  If  these  fires  be  numerous,  long- 
continued,  and  extensive,  it  is  a  sure  sign  to  us  that  in  the 
part  of  the  heavens  where  we  behold  them,  ther  are  ene- 
mies ;  that  they  are  powerful  and  numerous,  and  that  we 
must  avoid  them.  If,  on  the  contrary,  they  be  few,  faint 
and  not  frequent,  then  it  is  a  token  that  our  enemies  are 
weak,  and  that  we  may  attack  them  with  t  certainty  of 
success.  These  are  not  visions,  but  realities ;  we  do  not 
dream  that  we  see  these  fires,  but  we  actually  behold  them 
in  the  heavens ;  for  this  reason  do  we  value  oit  medicine  bags 


230 


EXPEDITION    TO    Tll£ 


IP 


f  I  1 


■i..|:^'l 


80  highly  that  We  would  not  part  with  them  while  life  en- 
dures. True,  some  of  us  did,  at  one  time,  at  the  instigation 
of  the  Shawanese  prophet,  (Tecumseh's  brother,)  throw 
them  away,  but  this  proved  to  us  the  source  of  many 
heavy  calamities,  it  brought  on  the  death  of  all  who 
parted  with  their  bags.  To  this  cause  do  we  attribute  the 
great  mortality  which  we  experienced,  during  the  late  war 
against  the  Americans.  He,  (the  Shawanese  prophet,) 
came  to  us,  and  by  artifice  induced  us  to  throw  away  our 
medicine,  a  circumstance  which  we  have  since  had  cause 
to  regret.  His  artifice  was  this;  he  convened  all  our  chiefs, 
and  told  them  that  he  had  been  favoured  with  an  inter- 
view with  the  Great  Spirit,  who  had  imparted  to  him  ex- 
tensive powers ;  that  he  could  recall  the  dead  to  life,  and 
perform  many  such  astonishing  deeds;  that  he  could  re- 
store youth  to  the  aged,  &c.  that  the  medicine  in  our  bags, 
which  had  been  good  in  its  time,  had  lost  its  efficacy ; 
that  it  had  become  vitiated  through  age ;  he  added  that  if  we 
would  throw  away  our  medicines,  he  would  execute,  in  our 
presence,  the  miracles  which  he  had  spoken  of,  and  that  if 
we  followed  him,  he  would  ensure  us  a  victory  over  our 
enemies.  Induced  by  these  promises  and  flattering  expec- 
tations, many  of  our  chiefs  cast  away  their  bags,  a  circum- 
stance much  to  be  regretted.  It  is  true,  that  some  who 
were  then  assembled,  challenged  the  Prophet  to  work  the 
miracles  which  he  had  announced.  There,  said  they,  are 
the  bodies  of  many  who  have  been  killed  in  battle,  restore 
them  to  life,  as  thou  sayest  that  thou  canst  do.  But  he  evaded 
their  challenge  by  say  ingto  them,  I  cannot  achieve  these  won- 
ders for  you,  unless  you  previously  comply  with  my  request 
to  throw  away  your  medicine  bags ;  such  of  you  as  shall  do 
so  will,  on  your  return,  find  your  children  or  your  friends, 
that  have  long  since  been  dead,  restored  to  life.    Many 


.SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETEr's   RIVER. 


231 


were  satisfied  and  did  as  he  bid  them;  but  not  one  of  them 
ever  returned  to  his  home,  to  see  if  his  promises  were 
fulfilled;  for  they  all  fell  'n  battle,  on  account,  as  we  have 
always  believed,  of  theii  having  parted  with  their  medi- 
cine bags.  I,"  added  Wennebea,  "  spoke  to  him  plainly ; 
I  told  him  he  wished  to  impose  upon  us;  that  our  bags 
had  not  lost  their  virtue;  that  still  in  the  hour  of  need  we 
applied  to  them,  and  generally  with  success;  that  weke]>t 
them  in  our  villages,  and  that  when  our  friends  were  sick, 
we  applied  to  them  for  relief;  and  that  if  we  were 
not  successful  in  all  cases,  at  least  we  were  so  in  most  in- 
stances. But  he  was  very  angry  at  me,  and  his  brother 
Tecumseh  who  was  near  to  us,  laid  his  hand  upon  me  and 
offered  to  strike  me,  which  he  would  hav^  done  had  he 
not  been  prevented." 

Thus  spoke  Wennebea  Namoeta,  a  Sauk  Indian  of  the 
tribe  of  P&.c6-h&-m6-&,  (which  signifies  Trout;)  his  bro- 
ther had  succeeded  to  the  dignity  of  chief,  although  he  was 
younger,  being  considered  a  man  of  more  talent;  and 
so  Wennebea  himself  admitted  him  to  be.  We  regretted 
that  we  did  not  meet  with  this  chief,  we  should  have 
liked  to  see  what  his  abilities  are;  he  may  be  a  bet- 
ter warrior  or  a  more  impressive  orator,  but  we  ques- 
tion much  whether  he  surpasses  our  guide  in  genuine  phi- 
losophy. We  have  with  regret  shortened  the  communica- 
tion of  the  observations  inade  by  this  interesting  man ;  we 
should  have  wished  to  give  them  entire.  They  breathe 
throughout  a  wisdom  which  would  have  done  honour 
to  the  philosophers  of  old,  and  a  morality  of  which  no 
Christian  need  have  blushed.  Indeed  they  speak  strongly 
in  favour  of  the  doctrine,  that  wisdom  and  morality  are 
the  spontaneous  growth  of  the  human  heart,  the  seeds  of 
which  have  been  implanted  by  the  great  Creator  bimself ; 


332 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


that  civilization  does  not  produce  them ;  that  the  real  be- 
nefit, which  results  from  it,  is  that,  in  some  instances,  it  may 
curb  the  passions  which  would  otherwise  impede  their 
growth.  The  Indian  appears  to  us  to  possess  ideas  of 
virtue  and  morality,  which  are  full  as  valuable  as  those 
that  are  supposed  by  some  philosophers  to  be  the  exclusive 
appanu^o  of  civ'Mzation.  True,  they  are,  perhaps  but  too 
frequently  checked  in  their  growth  by  the  uncontrolled 
sway  which  his  evil  propensities  exercise  over  him ;  pro- 
pensities which,  as  we  believe,  have  been  unfortunately 
increased,  by  an  indiscriminate  intercourse  with  the  most 
worthless  of  white  men  who^  to  serve  their  own  selfish 
ends,  have  net  been  ashamed  to  stimulate  the  Indian  to 
deeds,  which  i  is  own  good  sense  would  have  prevented  him 
from  per>':jtrating. 

On  the  route  from  Chicago  to  Fort  Crawford  we  saw  but 
one  deer,  at  which,  however,  we  had  no  opportunity  of 
shooting.  We  likewise  observed  but  a  ?ingle  wolf,  which 
was  of  the  kind  called  Prairie  wolf.  If  to  these  we  add 
the  badger,  which  was  killed  on  the  17th  of  June,  we  shall 
have  the  list  of  tnc  only  quadrupeds  seen  upon  upwards  of 
two  hundred  m^es  of  prairie  land.  The  extreme  scarcity 
of  game  in  a  country  so  remote  from  a  white  population 
as  this  is,  must  be  striking  to  every  observer;  and  it  be- 
comes the  more  so  ii  we  take  into  consideration  the  abun- 
dance of  fine  grass  which  grows  upon  it.  We  know  of  no 
other  manner  of  accounting  for  this  scarcity,  tlian  by  at- 
tributing it  to  the  pacific  state  of  the  Indian  tribes  that  own 
these  hunting  grounds.  Being  free  from  all  apprehensions 
of  enemies,  they  hunt  without  reserve,  and  destroy  the 
game  more  rapidly  than  it  can  be  reproduced.  They  appear 
since  their  intercourse  with  white  men  to  have  lost  he  sa- 
gacious foresight  which   previously  dis*!:.guished  them. 


SOURCS   OF  ST.   PBTER's  RIVER. 


233 


at  the  real  bc- 
nstances,  it  may 
e  impede  their 
possess  ideas  of 
raluable  as  those 
be  the  exclusive 
perhaps  but  too 
;he  uncontrolled 
over  him ;  pro- 
jn  unfortunately 
le  with  the  most 
heir  own  selfish 
ite  the  Indian  to 
Lve  prevented  him 

wford  we  saw  but 
10  opportunity  of 
ingle  wolf,  which 
to  these  we  add 
of  June,  we  shall 
upon  upwards  of 
extreme  scarcity 
white  population 
lerver;  and  it  be- 
eration  the  abun- 
We  know  of  no 

ircity,  tlian  by  at- 
ian  tribes  that  own 

all  apprehensions 
I,  and  destroy  the 

iced.  They  appear 
.0  have  lost  he  sa- 
|ist!..^ished  them. 


It  was  usual  with  them,  formerly,  to  avoid  killing  the  deer 
during  the  rutting  season ;  the  does,  thai  were  with  young, 
were  in  like  manner  always  spared,  eisicept  in  cases  of  ur- 
gency *,  and  the  young  fawns  were  not  wantonly  destroyed ; 
but  at  present  the  Indian  seems  to  consider  himself  as  a 
stranger  in  the  land  which  his  fathers  held  as  their  own ; 
he  sees  his  property  daily  exposed  to  the  encroachments 
of  white  men,  and  therefore  hunts  down  indiscrimi- 
nately every  animal  that  he  meets  with,  being  doubtful 
whether  he  will  be  permitted  to  reap  the  ensuing  year  the 
fruits  of  his  foresight  during  the  present  and  fearing  lest  he 
may  riOt  be  suffered  to  hunt,  undisturbed,  upon  his  proper- 
ty, for  another  season.  To  this  cause,  and  ]bo  the  increase  in 
their  numbers  produced  by  a  long  continued  peace,  we 
must  attribute  the  scarcity  of  game  at  present  observed; 
their  population  must  however  soon  cease  to  ii^creai^e  if  tjiey 
do  not  betake  themselves  to  agricultural  pursuits,  as  the  ra- 
pid diminution  in  the  quantity  of  game  will  eventually 
deprive  them  of  the  means  of  subsistence.  We  are  not  to 
wonder  ihat  an  Indian  population,  apparently  so  small  as 
that  which  we  know  to  exist  here,  should  be  comparatively 
large  for  the  country  to  which  it  is  restricted  in  its  hunts,  if 
we  bear  i^  mind  the  observations  of  Little  Turtle  on  the 
subject,  "  You  whites  contrive  to  collect  upon  a  small  space 
a  sure  and  plentiful  supply  of  food.  A  white  man  gathers 
from  a  field,  a  few  times  biggen  than  this  room,  bread 
enough  for  a  whole  year.  If  he  adds  to  this  a  small  field 
of  grass,  he  maintains  beasts,  which  give  him  all  the  meat 
and  clothes  he  wants,  and  all  the  rest  of  his  time  he  may 
do  what  he  pleases ;  while  we  must  have  a  great  deal  of 
ground  to  live  upon.  A  deer  will  serve  us  but  a  couple  of 
days,  and  a  single  deer  must  have  a  great  deal  of  ground  to 
put  him  in  good  condition.  If  we  kill  two  or  three  hun- 
VoL.  I.  30 


234 


HXPEOITION  TO  THB 


dred  a  year,  'tis  the  same  as  to  eat  all  the  wood  and  grass 
of  the  land  they  live  on,  and  that  is  a  great  deal."* 

Among  the  birds  obterved,  Mr.  Say  has  recorded  a  sin- 
gle Red-headed  Woodpecker,t  together  with  the  Ferrugi- 
nous Thrush,^  Towhee  Bunting,^  Song  Sparrow,||  Chipping 
Sparrow,**  Bartram's  Sandpiper,tt  Raven,t|  Reedbird, 
and  a  Crow§§  which  was  first  heard  near  the  Wisconsan. 

In  the  vegetable  kingdom,  the  same  gentleman  observ- 
ed that  the  Grerardria  was  found,  about  the  15th,  with  its 
petals  nearly  of  full  length,  but  that  aftervards  they  were 
found  much  shorter.  A  beautiful  specimen  of  Cassida  was 
likewise  seen  ;  its  elytra  were  of  a  fine  green  colour  tinged 
with  golden ;  and  the  exterior  margins  were  pale. 


*  Volnejr,  ut  supra,  p.  384. 
t  Turdus  rufus. 
I  FringiUa  melodia. 
f\  Tringa  Bartramia. 
§§  Corvus  corone. 


f  Picus  etythrocephalus. 
§  Emberiza  erythroptbalma. 
**  Frin£^Ila  socialis. 
^  Corvus  corax. 


SOURCE   OF  ST.   PETEB'S   BIVEB. 


235 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Prairie  du  Chien.  Indian  remains.  Division  of  the 
party.  Mississippi.  Dacota  villages.  Fort  St.  An- 
thony.   Falls.    River  St.  Peter. 

OUR  arrival  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  at  a  late  hour  in  the 
evening  of  the  19th  of  June,  prevented  us  from  obtain- 
ing a  sight  of  the  Mississippi ;  but  early  the  next  morn- 
ing we  hastened  to  take  a  view  of  this  important  river 
which,  from  its  extent,  the  number  and  size  of  its  tributa- 
ries, the  importance  of  the  country  which  it  drains,  will 
bear  a  comparison  with  any  known  stream  of  the  old  or 
new  continent  It  is  one  of  those  grand  natural  objects, 
the  sight  of  which  form»  an  era  in  one's  life. 

To  have  been  the  first  civilized  man,  who  viewed  the 
mighty  Mississippi,  was,  as  we  conceive,  by  no  means  an 
undesirable  distinction.  And  however  difficult  it  may  be, 
at  this  distant  epocha,  to  ascertain  who  that  man  may  have 
been,  the  inquiry  is  not  the  less  interesting  or  useful  in 
the  history  of  human  discoveries.  So  far  as  our  reading 
extends  at  present,  injustice  is  done  to  Alvar  Nunez  Ca- 
beza  de  Vaca.  He  traversed  North  America  from  Espiritu 
Santo  (Tampa)  Bay  to  New  Galicia,  between  the.  years 
1528  and  1537,  and  consequently  must  have  seen  this  river, 
having  crossed  it  above  or  at  its  mouth ;  though  in  his 
"  Naufragios"  he  has  given  neither  name  nor  description  by 
which  it  can  be  identified ;  his  curiosity  was  repressed  by 
extreme  su£fering  and  the  little  hope  he  entertained  of 
again  seeing  his  country.  Hernando  de  Soto  arrived  at 
its  banks  below  the  Arkansaw  in  1541,  and  found  it  there 
called  "  Chucagua ;''  his  body  was  thrown  into  it  the  next 


U6 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


year,  near  the  mouth  of  Red  river.  If  we  mistake  not, 
two  vessels  under  the  command  of  Wood,  an  Englishman, 
entered  its  mouth  about  1636.*  Father  Marquette  and  the 
Sieur  Joliet,  to  whom  the  discovery  has  been  generally  at- 
tributed, did  not  see  the  Mississippi  before  1673.  They 
entered  from  the  Wisconsan  aiid  descended  to  the  Arkan- 
sa"  Coxe  tells  us,t  that^  among  the  savages,  for  about 
half  its  course  it  was  called  Meschacebe,  afterwards  Chu- 
ca^ua,  Sassagoula  and  M&labanchia.  It  is  said  that  at 
Guachoya,  (probably  an  old  place  on  the  Miss*  appi  above 
Red  river,)  it  was  "  called  Tamaliseu ;  in  tJie  country  of 
Nilco,  Tapatu ;  and  in  Coga,  Mico ;  in  the  port  or  mouth, 
Ri."t  The  French  first  called  it  Colbert,  then  St.  Louis 
Hver.  The  Spaniards  had  previously  called  it  Rio  Grande, 
Spiiito  Santo. 

At  Prairie  du  Chien  the  breadth  of  the  river  is  estimated 
at  one-half  of  a  mile,  including  a  long  and  narrow  island.  Its 
current,  though  rapid  compared  with  that  of  many  other 
streams,  is  gentle  when  contrasted  with  that  of  the  same  river 
loWer  down ;  it  is  only  when  it  has  been  swollen  by  the  Mis- 
souri and  the  Ohio,  that  it  acquires  the  extreme  rapidity 
which  characterizes  it.  The  village  of  Prairie  du  Chien  is 
situated  four  or  five  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wis- 
consan, on  a  beautiful  prairie,  which  extends  along  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  rive^for  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and 
which  is  limited  to  the  east  by  a  range  of  steep  hills  rising 
to  a  height  of  about  four  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet,  and 

•We  have  endeavoured,  but  in  vain,  to  find  our  authority  for  this 
stiitcnient ;  but  it  has  entirely  escaped  our  recoTlection.  This  is  not, 
however,  the  same  Colonel  Wood  of  Virginia,  whom  Coxe  mentions 
as  having  discovered  sever^  branches  of  the  great  rivers  Ohio  and 
Meschacebe. — (Coxe's  Carolana,  p.  120.) 

f  Description  of  the  English  province  of  Carolana,  by  Daniel  Coxe. 
London,  1741,  p.  4. 

tKarrative  of  de  Soto's  Invasion,  \it  supra,  p.  122. 


sottf-;e  op  ST.  Peter's  river. 


237 


mistake  not, 
Englishman, 
[uette  and  the 
I  generally  at- 
1673.    They 
to  the  Arkan- 
ges,  for  ahout 
terwards  Chu- 
i  paid  that  at 
8s'<  «ippi  above 
Dhe  country  of 
)ort  or  mouth, 
then  St.  Louis 
it  Rio  Grande, 

\rer  is  estimated 
iTOW  island.  Its 
of  many  other 
if  the  same  river 
len  'oy  the  Mis- 
treme  rapidity 
lirie  du  Chien  is 
ith  of  the  Wis- 
ends  along  the 
(S  in  lengtii,and 
jteep  hills  rising 
y-five  feet,  and 

authority  for  this 
Ition.  This  is  not, 
]om  Coxe  mentions 

at  rivers  Ohio  and 

la,  by  Daniel  Coxe. 


running  parallel  with  the  course  of  the  nver  at  a  distance 
of  about  a  mile  and  a  half;  on  the  western  bank,  the  bluffs 
which  rise  to  the  same  elevation  are  washed  at  their  base  by 
the  river.  Pike's  mountain,  which  is  on  the  west  bank,  im- 
mediately opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Wisconsan,  is  about 
five  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  "It  has  received  its  name 
frohi  having  been  recommended  by  the  late  General  Pike, 
in  his  journal,  as  a  position  '>vell  calculated  for  the  construc- 
tion of  a  military  post  to  command  the  Mississippi  and  Wis- 
consan. The  hill  has  no  particular  limits  in  regard  to  its  ex- 
tent, being  merely  a  part  of  the  river  bluffs  which  stretch 
along  the  margin  of  the  river  on  tl>e  west,  for  several 
miles,  and  retain  prel  /  nearly  the  saine  elevation  above 
the  water.  The  side  fronting  upon  the  river  is  so  abrupt 
as  to  render  the  summit  completely  inaccessible  even  to 
a  footman  except  in  a  very  few  places,  where  he  may  as- 
cend by  taking  hold  of  the  bushes  and  rocks  that  cover  the 
slope.  In  general  the  acclivity  is  made  up  of  precipices, 
arranged  one  above  another,  some  of  which  are  one  hun- 
dred and  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  From  the  top 
we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  two  rivers,  v^hich  mingled  their 
waters  at  the  foot  of  this  majestic  hill."*  The  Prairie  has 
retained  its  old  French  appellation,  derived  from  an  In- 
dian who  formerly  resided  there,  and  was  called  the  Dog. 
The  village  consists,  exclusive  of  stores,  of  about  twenty 
dwelling  houses,  chiefly  old,  and  many  of  them  in  a  state 
of  decay;  its  population  may  amount  to  one  hundred 
and  fifty  souls.  It  is  not  in  as  thriving  a  situation  as  it  for- 
merly was.  Carver  tells  us,  that  when  he  visited  it,  in 
1766,  it  was  "  a  large  town  containing  about  three  hun- 
dred families;  the  houses,"  he  adds,  **  are  well  built  after 
the  Indian  manner,  and  pleasantly  situated  on  a  very  rich 


•  Major  Long's  MS.  1817,  No.  l,p.  37. 


238 


UXFEDITION   to   THE 


soil,  from  which  they  raise  every  necessary  of  life  in  great 
abundance.  This  town  is  the  great  mart  where  all  the  ad- 
jacent tribes,  and  even  those  who  inhabit  the  most  remote 
branches  of  the  Mississippi,  annually  assemMe  about  the 
latter  end  of  May,  bringing  with  them  their  furs  to  dis- 
pose of  to  the  traders."*  **  I  should  have  remarked," 
says  the  same  author,  '^  that  whatever  Indians  happen  to 
meet  at  La  Prairie  le  Chien,  the  great  mart  to  which  all 
who  inhabit  the  adjacent  country  resort,  though  the  na- 
tions to  which  they  belong  are  at  war  with  each  other, 
yet  they  are  obliged  to  restrain  their  enmity,  and  to  for- 
bear all  hostile  acts  during  their  stay  iltere.  This  regula- 
tion has  long  been  established  among  them  for  their  mu- 
tual convenience,  as  without  it  no  trade  could  be  carried 
on."t 

The  fort,  which  is  one  of  the  rudest  and  least  comfort- 
able that  we  have  seen*  is  situated  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  from  the  river.  Its  site  is  low  and  un- 
pleasant, as  a  slough  extends  to  the  south  of  it  The  river 
bank  is  here  so  low  and  flat,  that  by  a  swell  which  took 
place  in  the  Mississippi  the  summer  before  we  visited  it,  the 
water  rose  upon  the  prairie,  and  entered  the  parade,  which 
it  covered  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  feet;  it  penetrated 
into  ail  the  officers'  and  soldiers'  quarters,  so  as  to  render 
it  necessary  for  the  garrison  to  remove  from  the  fort  and 
encamp  upon  the  neighbouring  heights,  where  they  spent 
about  a  month.  The  waters  having  subsided,  at  the  end  of 
that  time,  they  returned  to  their  quarters;  the  old  men 
about  the  village  say  that  such  an  inundation  may  be  ex- 
pected every  seven  years.  The  village  also  suffered  much 
from  the  inundation,  though  the  ground  being  sdmewhat 
higher,  the  injury  done  to  it  was  not  so  great.  The  fort  was 


*  Carver's  Travels,  PhiladelpbU,  1796,  p.  31.  f  Idem,  p.  62. 


IT 


SOURCE   OF  ST.   FETER's   RIVER. 


239 


originally  erected  for  the  protection  of  the  white  population 
at  the  village ;  as  a  military  post,  its  situation  is  by  no 
means  a  judicious  one,  for  it  commands  neither  the  Mis- 
sissippi nor  Wisconsan ;  but  as  the  necessity  which  led  to 
its  construction  is  daily  becoming  less  urgent,  this  posi- 
tion will  doubtless  soon  be  abandoned ;  one  of  the  block- 
houses of  the  fort  is  situated  upon  a  large  mound,  which 
appears  to  be  artificial.  This  mound  is  so  large,  that  it 
supported  the  whole  of  the  work  at  this  place,  previous  to 
the  capture  of  the  fort  by  the  British  and  Indians  during 
the  late  war.  It  has  been  excavated,  but  we  have  not 
heard  that  any  bones  or  other  remains  were  found  in  it. 

This  is  by  no  means  the  only  mound  found  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  Prairie.  There  are  very  numerous  remains 
of  Indian  works  on  the  Wisconsan,  near  the  Petit  cap  au 
Oris  s  Messrs.  Say,  Keating,  and  Seymour,  went  to  examine 
them.  They  found  the  bluffs  which  border  upon  the  Wiscon- 
san, about  four  miles  above  its  mouth,  covered  with  mounds, 
parapiets,  &c.  but  no  plan  or  system  could  be  observed  among 
them,  neither  could  they  trace  any  such  thing  as  a  regular 
enclosure.  Among  these  works,  they  saw  an  embankment 
about  eighty-five  yards  long,  divided  towards  its  middle 
by  a  sort  of  gateway,  about  four  yards  wide ;  this  parapet 
was  elevated  from  three  to  four  feet;  it  stood  very  near  to 
the  edge  of  the  bluff,  as  did  also  almost  all  the  other  em- 
bankments which  they  saw.  From  this  circumstance,  they 
were  led  to  consider  them  as  raised  for  the  protection  of 
a  party  placed  there,  either  for  the  defence  of  the  bluff,  or 
to  command  the  passage  of  the  river.  For  either  of  these 
objects,  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  the  selection  of  the 
position  would  be  very  advantageous.  No  connexion 
whatever  was  observed  between  the  parapets  and  the 
mounds,  except  in  one  case,  where  a  parapet  was  cut  off 


240 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


by  a  sort  of  gateway  or  sally-port,  and  a  mound  was 
placed  in  front  of  it,  as  it  were,  to  command  the  gateway ; 
but  instead  of  being  inside,  in  the  manner  of  a  traverse,  it 
was  outside,  and  could  have  served  no  other  purpose,  that 
they  could  think  of,  but  to  allow  some  of  the  party  to 
proceed  a  few  steps  in  advance  of  the  works  and  recon- 
noitre the  enemy ;  though  it  must  be  acknowledged  that 
the  enemy  might,  under  cover  of  this  mound,  have  ap- 
proached, perhaps,  without  being  perceived,  or  at  least  with 
the  advantage  of  a  breast-work.  In  one  instance  the  works 
or  parapets  seemed  to  form  a  cross  of  which  three  parts 
could  be  distinctly  traced,  but  these  were  short ;  this  was 
upon  a  projecting  point  of  the  highland.  Tht  mounds, 
which  the  party  observed,  were  scattered,  without  any 
apparent  symmetry,  over  the  whole  of  the  ridge  of  high- 
land, which  borders  upon  the  river.  They  were  very  nu- 
merous, and  generally  from  six  to  eight  feet  high,  and 
from  eight  to  twelve  in  diameter.  In  one  ease  a  number 
of  these,  amounting  perhaps  to  twelve  or  fifteen,  were 
seen  all  arranged  in  one  line,  parallel  to  the  edge  of  the 
bluff,  but  at  some  distance  from  it. 

These  are  not  the  only  works  in  this  vicinity ;  it  appears 
that  the  mounds  and  parapets  extend  not  only  along  the 
Wisconsan,  but  upon  the  bluffs  which  run  parallel  tp  the 
Mississippi  and  limit  the  Prairie  to  the  east  From  the 
description  which  Mr.  Say  and  his  companions  gave  to 
Major  Lonf,  of  what  they  had  seen,  it  appeared  that  these 
could  not  have  been  the  same  as  those  he  observed  in  1817. 
According  to  his  MS.  Journal  of  1817,  (No.  2,  fol.  22,) 
"  the  remains  of  ancient  works,  constructed  probably  for 
military  purposes,  were  found  more  numerous  and  of 
greater  extent,  on  the  highlands,  just  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Wisconsan,  than  any  of  which  a  description  has  bee^ 


SOURCi:   OF    ST.    PETER's    RIVER. 


241 


lound  was 
J  gateway, 
traverse,  it 
irpose,  that 
te  party  to 
and  recon- 
ledged  that 
d,  have  ap- 
at  least  with 
ee  the  works 
,  three  parts 
orf,  this  was 
Thfe  mounds, 
without  any 
idge  of  high- 
were  very  nu- 
eet  high,  and 
sase  a  number 
fifteen,  were 
le  edge  of  the 


made  public,  or  that  have  as  yet  been  discovered  in  the 
western  country.  There  the  parapets  and  mounds  were 
found  connected  in  one  series  of  works ;  whenever  there 
was  an  angle  in  the  principal  lines,  a  mound  of  the  largest 
size  was  erected  at  the  angle ;  the  parapets  were  terminat- 
ed by  mounds  at  each  extremity,  and  also  at  the  gateways; 
no  ditch  was  observed  on  either  side  of  the  parapet.  In 
many  places  the  lines  were  composed  of  parapets  and 
mounds  in  conjunction,  the  mounds  being  arranged  along 
the  parapets  at  their  usual  distance  from  each  other,  and 
operating  as  flank  defences  to  the  lines." 

"  The  remains  were  observed  in  the  interior  of  the  coun- 
try in  a  direction  towards  Kickapoo  creek;  they  were 
situated  for  the  most  part  on  the  ridges,  but  a  few  also  in 
the  valleys.  Those  on  the  ridges  had  the  appearance  of 
having  been  intended  to  resist  an  attack  on  both  sides,  be- 
ing for  the  most  part  a  single  parapet  of  considerable  ex- 
tent, crossed  at  right  angles  by  traverses  at  the  distances  of 
twenty  or  thirty  yards  from  each  other;  and  having  no 
ditch  upon  either  side.  Those  in  the  valleys  appeared  to 
have  been  constructed  to  command  the  passage  of  the  par- 
ticular valleys  in  which  they  were  situated.  We  saw  no 
works  which  exhibited  signs  of  having  been  complete  en- 
closure's, but  the  whole  were  in  detached  parts,  &c.'' 

The  following  account  of  the  nature  of  the  country,  back 
of  the  prairie,  extending  towards  Kickapoo  creek,  (a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Wisconsan,  which  empties  itself  on  the  north 
bank  about  twenty  miles  above  its  mouth,)  is  extracted  from 
the  same  MS. 

"  The  country  is  divided  into  numerous  hills  or  rather 
ridges,  of  various  shapes  and  dimensions,  but  generally 
of  an  equal  altitude,  by  valleys  and  ravines,  some  of 
which  have  fine  streams  of  spring  water  running  through 

Vol.  I.  31 


242 


EXPEDITION   TO   THB 


them.  The  hills  are  generally  elevated  from  three  hundred 
to  four  or  five  hundred  feet  above  the  valleys ;  they  are  hand- 
somely rounded  upon  their  top,  buta^^  ptand  precipitous 
on  their  sides,  and  almost  inaccessiblp  ^'cept  through  the 
numerous  ravines  by  which  they  are  cut  The  valleys  are 
many  of  them  broad,  and  appear  v^^ell  adapted  to  tillage 
and  pasture ;  the  highlands  are  also  well  calculated  for  the 
raising  of  grain.  The  country  is  generally  prairie  land, 
but  the  hills  and  valleys  are  in  some  places  covered  with  a 
scattering  growth  of  fine  timber,  consisting  of  white,  red, 
and  post  oak,  hickory,  white  walnut,*  sugar  tree,  maple, 
white  and  blue  ash,  American  box,  &c.'' 

It  is  probable  that  Prairie  du  Chien  was  formerly  the 
seat  of  a  large  Indian  population.  The  beauty  of  the  coun- 
try, its  favourable  characters  for  hunting,  its  delightful 
situation  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  must  have  made  it  a 
pleasant  abode  for  Indians ;  it  is  doubtful,  or  at  least  we 
have  not  been  able  to  ascertain,  to  what  nation  belonged 
the  family  of  the  Dog  Indians,  whose  name  it  bears.  This 
family  has  become  extinct ;  the  traditions  concerning  the 
fate  of  its  members  are  very  indistinct;  it  is  said  that  a 
large  party  of  Indians  came  down  the  Wisconsan  from 
Greenbay,  and  after  having  massacred  nearly  the  whole  of 
them,  returned  again  to  the  Bay ;  that  a  few  of  the  Dogs, 
who  had  succeeded  in  making  their  escape  to  the  woods, 
returned  after  their  enemies  had  evacuated  the  prairie,  and 
reestablished  themselves  in  their  former  residence ;  and 
that  these  were  the  Indians  found  at  that  place  by  the  first 
French  settlers. 

This  spot,  like  many  of  those  early  settled,  has  been  graced 
with  traditions,  which,  if  they  contribute  but  little  to  the 
history  of  our  north-west  Indians,  adoiTi  at  least  with  the 

♦  Juglans  cinerea. 


'*^^-'^5--' 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


243 


lundred 
rehand- 
cipitous 
ugh  the 
(leys  arc 
x>  tillage 
i  for  the 
rie  land, 
ed  with  a 
lite,  red, 
B,  maple, 

nerly  the 
the  coun- 
delightful 
made  it  a 
A  least  we 
belonged 
iars.   This 
2rning  the 
said  that  a 
nsan  from 
e  whole  of 
the  Dogs, 
|the  woods, 
»rairie,  and 
lence;  and 
»y  the  first 

seen  graced 
Ittle  to  ihe 
it  with  the 


cliarm  of  romance  and  fable  some  of  its  most  beautiful 
seenery.  Among  these,  that,  which  is  related  of  one  of  the 
caverns  on  the  bai  ks  of  Kickapoo  creek,  appears  to  us  to 
deserve  notice.  It  is  said  that,  in  one  of  the  niches  or  re- 
cesses formed  by  the  precipice,  there  is  a  gigantic  mass  of 
stone  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  human  figure.  It  is  so 
sheltered,  by  the  over-hanging  rocks,  and  by  the  sides  of  the 
recess  in  which  it  stands,  as  to  assume  a  dark  and  gloomy  cha- 
racter. They  relate,  on  this  subject,  that  long  since,  a  battle 
was  fought  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  between  the 
inhabitants  of  the  prairie  and  their  enemies;  in  which  con- 
flict the  latter  were  victorious,  and  succeeded  in  killing  a 
great  number  of  the  former ;  that  an  inhabitant  of  the 
prairie,  who  was  a  very  good  woman,  having  received 
several  wounds  during  the  engagement,  efiected  her  escape 
and  withdrew  to  the  hills,  where  she  was  near  perishing 
with  hunger;  that  while  wandering  along  the  banks  of 
this  stream,  a  kind  spirit  took  pity  of  her,  and  converted  her 
into  this  monument  to  which  he,  moreover,  imparted  the 
power  of  suddenly  killing  any  Indian  that  approached  near 
it  This  power  was  exercised  until  the  spirit,  tired  of  the 
havoc  which  he  had  committed,  ceased  to  display  his 
vengeance  any  longer.  Although  the  natives  may  there- 
fore, at  present,  approach  the  statue  with  impunity  still 
they  hold  it  in  fear  and  veneration,  and  none  passes  near 
it  without  paying  it  the  homage  of  a  sacrifice  of  tobacco, 
&c. 

There  are  at  present  but  few  Indians  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  fort,  and  none  can  give  an  account  of  the 
works  which  are  so  abundantly  scattered  over  the  coun- 
try. They  say  that  the  only  means  by  which  they  can  ac- 
count for  them  is  to  suppose  that  the  country  was  probably 
inhabited,  at  a  period  anterior  to  the  most  remote  traditions, 
by  a  race  of  white  men,  similar  to  those  of  European  origin, 


U  .1 


»  '. 


244 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


and  that  they  were  cut  off  by  their  forefatliers.  This  suppo- 
sition is  grounded  upon  the  circumstance  of  their  having 
found  human  bones  buried  in  the  earth  at  a  much  greater 
depth  than  that,  at  which  they  are  accustomed  to  inter  their 
dead ;  and  in  graves  which  differ  from  theirs,  inasmuch 
as  they  are  unaccompanied  by  instruments  of  any  kind, 
whereas  they  never  omit  depositing  the  arms,  &c.  with 
the  corpse  of  the  deceased.  It  is  also  said  that  tomahawks  of 
j\  brass  (?)  and  other  implements  differing  from  those  in 
common  use  among  the  present  Indians,  have  likewise  been 
found  under  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  fortifications 
appear  to  them  likewise  to  be  a  proof  of  the  correctness  of 
their  opinion,  as  none  of  the  Indians  are  in  the  habit  of  con- 
structing works  of  a  similar  character,  and  as  indeed  they 
are  unacquainted  with  the  utility  of  them. 

"  Mr.  Brisbois,  who  has  been  for  a  long  time  a  resident 
of  Prairie  du  Chien,  informed  me  that  he  saw  the  skele- 
tons of  eight  persons,  that  were  found,  in  digging  a  cellar 
near  his  house,  lying  side  by  side.  They  were  of  a  gigan- 
tic size,  measuring  about  eight  feet  from  head  to  foot. 
He  added  that  he  took  a  leg  bone  of  one  of  them  and 
placed  it  by  the  side  of  his  own  leg,  in  order  to  compare 
the  length  of  the  two ;  the  bone  of  the  skeleton  extended 
six  inches  above  his  knee.  None  of  these  bones  could  be 
preserved  as  they  crumbled  to  dust  soon  after  they  were 
exposed  to  the  atmosphere."* 

We  saw  a  number  of  Indian  graves  on  the  prairie,  but 
as  they  were  modern  they  offered  nothing  peculiar.  They 
resemble  the  graves  of  white  men,  but  the  sod  over  them  is 
covered  with  boards  or  bark,  secured  to  stakes  driven  into 
the  ground,  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  roof  over  the  grave ;  at 
the  head,  poles  were  erected  for  the  purpose  of  supporting 
flags ;  a  few  tatters  of  one  of  these  still  waved  over  the 
•  *Iajor  Long's  MS.  No.  2,  folio  25. 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETEr's    RIVER. 


S45 


grave.  An  upright  post  was  also  fixed  near  the  head,  and 
upon  this  the  deeds  of  the  deceased,  whether  in  the  way  of 
hunting  or  fighting,  were  inscribed  with  red  or  black  paint 
The  graves  were  placed  upon  mounds  in  the  prairie,  thi« 
situation  having  doubtless  been  selected  as  being  the  high- 
est and  least  likely  to  be  overflowed. 

From  a  series  of  observations,  taken  at  this  place,  it  re- 
sults, that  Fort  Crawford  is  situated  in  latitude  43°  3'  31" 
north,  and  longitude  90°  Sk  30"  west.  The  magnetic  va- 
riation amounts  here  to  8°  48'  52"  east 

Previous  to  leaving  the  prairie,  Major  Long  provided 
for  the  safe  return  of  Bemis  to  his  garrison,  by  placing  him 
under  the  protection  of  Mr.  Rolette,  a  gentleman  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  who  was  on  the  point  of  travelling 
to  Greenbay  by  the  Wisconsan  and  Fox  rivers.  Between 
the  forts  at  the  Bay  and  Chicago  a  regular  intercourse  ex- 
isted at  that  time  by  means  of  an  express  sent,  at  stated 
times,  with  despatches.  We  have  had  great  pleasure  in 
ascertaining  that  this  man,  whose  conduct  had  entitled  him 
to  the  most  unqualified  praise,  returned  to  his  regiment 
without  accident 

Our  party  was  here  reinforced  by  an  escort,  consisting 
of  a  corporal,  and  nine  men,  under  the  command  of  first 
Lieutenant  Martin  Scott  of  the  5th  reg^.  United  States' 
Infantry,  who  was  selected  to  command  ^<:he  guard.  Ma- 
jor Long  secured  the  services  of  a  half-breed  interpreter, 
by  name  Augustin  Roque.  The  object  in  taking  this  n^an, 
was  to  afford  to  the  gentlemen,  charged  with  the  collecting 
of  the  Indian  information,  an  opportunj0  of  acquiring 
from  him  an  insight  into  the  manners  and  custom:*  '^f  the 
Dacota  Indians,  previous  to  the  party's  travelling  through 
their  country.  Thty  were,  however,  very  much  disap- 
pointed in  the  character  of  this  man,  who  enjoys,  in  the 


246 


SXPEOITION   TO   THE 


country^  a  much  higher  reputation  for  intelligence  and  ob- 
servation, than  they  were  led  to  ascribe  to  him,  and  as  the 
information  which  he  contributed  was  but  trifling,  it  has 
been  thought  proper  to  embody  it  with  that  resulting  from 
personal  observations,  and  from  conversations  with  the  in- 
terpreters who  subsequently  accompanied  the  expedition. 
With  a  view  to  proceed,  with  as  much  speed  as  possible,  to 
Fort  St  Anthony,  where  the  last  preparations  were  to  be 
made.  Major  Long  divided  the  party  here,  and  travelled 
by  land  with  Mr.  Colhoun ;  while  the  oiher  gentlemen  as- 
cended the  Mississippi  in  a  boat  The  land  party  was 
accompanied  by  George  Bunker,  (a  soldier,)  John  Wade, 
(a  boy  of  tlie  garrison,  who  acted  as  Sioux  interpreter,) 
and  Andrew,  fthe  black  boy.)  Tommo,  a  Dacota  (Sioux) 
Indian,  acted  as  guide  to  the  party;  he  was  a  tal)^  gaunt 
Indian,  probably  about  fifty  years  old.  After  having 
crossed  the  river  in  the  boat,  the  two  parties  srj;u*ated; 
and  Major  Long  continued  his  journey  on  horseback,  along 
the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  route  from  Prairie  du  Chien  to  Fort  St.  Anthony, 
V  .s  attended  with  greater  difficulties  than  had  been  anti- 
c  jjated.  It  was  extremely  rough  and  hilly;  there  being  no 
beaten  track,  the  party  were  frequently  led  to  tlie  edge  (rf 
a  precipice,  and  compelled  to  retrace  their  steps  and  seek 
a  more  gradual  descent  These  difficulties  arose  from  their 
travelling,  ff^r  the  most  part,  at  a  distance  from  the  river, 
with  a  view  to  shorten  the  road ;  the  highlands,  which  they 
had  attempted  to  keep,  were  frequently  cut  by  trans- 
verse valleys,A|)ened  by  streams,  tributary  to  the  Missis- 
oippi.  In  the  crossing  of  these  streams,  much  difficulty  was 
experienced  from  the  swampy  nature  of  the  ground,  in 
which  the  horses  were  frequently  mired.  The  distance  at 
which  they  travelled  from  the  Mississippi  seldom  exceedcl 


SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETSR^S   RIVER. 


247 


five  or  six  miles.  The  guide  said  it  would  be  difficult  to 
travel  at  a  greater  distance,  although  it  might  shorten 
the  route,  because  the  country  was  too  thickly  wooded,  and 
water  very  scarce ;  this  last  circumstance  can  only  be  ac- 
counted for  upon  the  supposition,  that  the  water  escapes 
through  the  numerous  sinks  observed  in  the  ground.  The 
forests,  traversed  by  the  party,  consisted  principally  of  oak, 
basswood,  ash,  elm,  white  walnut,  suga^  tree,  maple,  birch, 
aspen,  with  a  thick  undergrowth  of  hazel,  hickory, 
&c.  In  the  bottoms  the  wild  rice,  horsetail,  may-apple, 
tc.  were  found.  The  eye  is  charmed  by  the  abundance  of 
wild  rc^es  which  are  strewed  over  the  country,  and  the 
palate  is  not  less  delighted  with  the  excellence  of  the 
strawberry,  which  is  remarkable  for  its  fine  fragrance,  and 
which  was,  just  at  that  time,  in  a  state  of  perfect  maturity. 
A  small  Indian  village,  of  five  lodges,  was  passed  on  the 
26th;  At  is  situated  on  a  stream,  supposed  to  be  the  upper 
Iowa.  Judging  irom  the  number  of  women  and  children 
which  the  party  saw,  the  population  must  be  dense;  there 
weve  but  two  or  three  men  in  the  village ;  the  rest  were 
prob;^bly  hunting,  especially  as  a  large  herd  of  Elk  were 
seen  in  the  morning  by  the  boys  of  the  party,  whils  in 
search  of  the  horses,  that  had  strayed  during  the  night 
time  to  a  distance  of  eight  miles  from  the  camp.  The 
whole  population  of  the  village  seemed  to  have  no  other 
culture  than  about  two  acres  of  maize,  which  v^as  planted 
without  order  in  hills  and  which  had  at  that  time  risen  but 
about  eight  inches  above  the  ground. 

At  the  encampment  of  the  27th,  observations  were  ta- 
ken at  three  o'clock,  A.  M.  (of  the  28th,)  by  which  the 
latitude  of  this  place  was  determined  to  be  43°  47'  57"north. 
About  one  mile  north  of  this,  the  party  crossed  a  river, 
called,  in  the  Dacota  language,  H6-k4,  CBooiJ  which  is 


rv^jj 


248 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


supposed  to  be  the  Riviere  Longue*  or  Riviere  Morte  of  La- 
hontan,  and  the  Mitschaoy  wa  of  Coxe  ;t  this  is  the  same 
stream  which  Coxe  afterwards  calls  Meschaouay4  But  it  is 
impossible  to  read  the  Baron  Lahontan's  account  of  this 
river,  without  being  convinced  that  the  greater  part,  if  not 
the  whole,  of  it  is  a  deception.  By  his  own  account  he  n/ast 
have  ascended  it  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  leagues, 
have  met  on  its  banks  three  distinct  nations,  the  Eokoros, 
the  Essanapes,  and  the  Gnacsitares,  the  names  of  which  are 
not  recorded  by  any  later  traveller ;  have  seen  a  population 
considerably  greater  than  that  which  could  have  existed 
there :  in  a  word,  his  description  bears  such  evident  marks 
of  fiction,  that  we  can  credit  no  part  of  it 

Major  Long's  party  passed  on  the  28th  down  a  valley, 
bounded  on  both  sides  by  high  blu£fs  and  precipices ;  their 
ride  was  a  picturesque  one ;  the  green  sward  of  the  ravine 
contrasted  richly  with  the  grayish  hue  of  the  lime  and 
sandstone  bluffs,  which  rose  like  high  walls  on  either  side 
of  them.  At  last  the  valley  widened,  and  they  found  them* 
selves  almost  instantaneously  in  sight  of  the  majestic  Mis- 
sissippi, in  whose  broadly  extended  valley  nature  displayed 
herself  with  gigantic  features.  The  river,  one  of  the  largest 
in  the  world,  rolling  its  waters  with  an  undiminished  ra* 
pidity,  in  a  bed  checkered  with  islands,  was  a  spectacle, 
which,  however  often  observed,  always  filled  the  mind  with 
awe  and  with  delight.  It  was  impossible  to  behold  the 
great  devastation  in  the  earth's  surface,  whether  consi- 
dered as  caused  by  the  Mississippi  or  as  pre-existing  to 


*  Lahontan,  ut  supra,  Let.  16,  vol.  1,  p.  112. 

f  Description  of  the  English  province  of  Carolana,  by  the  Spaniards 
called  Florida,  and  by  the  French  la  Louisiane ;  by  Daniel  Coxe,  Esq. 
London,  1741,  p.  19. 

t  Idem,  ibid.  p.  63. 


^     i 


SOURCE  OP   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


249 


it,  without  being  induced  to  look  back  to  the  causes  which 
may  have  produced  this  phenomenon.  But  here  man  finds 
himself  ba£9ed  in  every  attempt  to  dive  into  the  abyss 
of  past  times ;  he  may  contemplate  the  scenery,  but  can- 
not unravel  the  mysteries  of  its  creation.  Deep  strata  of 
sandstone  and  limestone  are  disclosed ;  they  have  preserv- 
ed, as  yet,  the  elevation  of  the  hills  undiminished,  but  have 
not  protected  their  sides  from  waste.  "  When  we  entered 
on  the  prairie,  towards  the  close  of  the  day,"  says  Mr. 
Colhoun,  from  whose  notes  this  description  is  chiefly  ex- 
tracted, "  a  landscape  was  presented,  that  combined  grander 
beauties  than  any  I  ever  beheld ;  far  as  the  eye  could  fol- 
low were  traced  two  gigantic  walls  of  the  most  regular  out- 
line, formed,  as  it  were,  by  successive  faces  of  pyramids. 
Between  them,  extended  a  level  verdant  prairie,  the  scene 
of  the  Python  flexures  of  the  Mississippi.  My  sensations 
were  prolonged  by  the  reflection  that  I  had  before  me  one 
of  the  noblest  rivers  in  the  world ;  they  were  enhanced 
when  I  saw  the  evidences  of  a  grand  catastrophe.  Majestic 
as  is  the  Mississippi,  there  was  a  time  when  it  swept 
along,  a  stream,  more  than  one  hundred  fold  its  present 
volume." 

Whatever  might  be  the  reveries  in  which  the  paily  were 
indulging,  they  were  soon  recalled  to  the  dull  realities  of 
travelling,  by  the  howling  and  barking  of  a  band  of  dogs, 
that  announced  their  approach  to  an  Indian  village  consist- 
ing of  twenty  fixed  lodges  and  cabins.  It  is  controlled  by 
Wi-p^-sh^.,  an  Indian  chief  of  considerable  distinction.  In 
his  language,  (Dacota,)  his  name  signifies  the  red  leaf.  A 
number  of  young  men  fantastically  decorated  with  many 
and  variously  coloured  feathers,  and  their  faces  as  oddly 
painted,  advanced  to  greet  the  party.  One  of  them,  the  son 
of  the  chief,  was  remarkable  for  the  gaadiness  and  display 

Vol.  I.  33 


r^z^^iTT^iPUT: 


250 


EXPEDITION   Tb    THE 


of  his  dress,  which  from  its  showy  appearance  imparted  to 
him  a  character  of  foppishness.  In  his  hair  he  wore  two 
or  three  soldiers'  plumes ;  his  moccasins  of  stained  buck- 
skin were  tastefully  puckered  at  the  toes,  and  his  breech- 
cloth  was  q'lite  tawdry.  The  chief  is  about  fifty  years  of 
age,  but  appears  older ;  his  prominent  features  are  good 
and  indicative  of  great  acute  ness  and  of  a  prying  disposition ; 
hi."?  stature  is  low  ;  he  has  long  been  one  of  the  most  influen- 
tial of  the  Dacota  Indians,  more  perhaps  from  his  talents  in 
the  counsel  than  his  achievements  in  the  field.  He  is  repre- 
sented as  being  a  wise  and  prudent  man,  a  forcible  and  im- 
pressive orator.  His  disposition  to  the  Americans  has  ge- 
nerally been  a  friendly  one,  and  his  course  of  policy  is 
well  spoken  of.  The  major's  party  having  no  other  in- 
terpreter than  Wade,  who  proved  less  serviceable  than  had 
been  expected,  could  hold  but  a  short  conversation  witli 
him,  and  therefore  proceeded  on  their  journey,  and  en- 
camped two  miles  above  the  village.  Near  this  place  a  num- 
ber of  mounds  were  seen,  arranged  in  nearly  a  right  line 
along  the  margin  of  the  river ;  they  were  of  inconsidera- 
ble height,  but  covered  a  large  surface.  Indian  remains 
were  observed,  in  great  plenty,  for  the  eiisuing  two  days, 
extending  along  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  and  espe- 
cially near  the  shores  of  Lake  Pepin,  along  which  the  land 
party  travelled  on  the  30th.  These  mounds  and  remains  at- 
test, of  course,  the  former  existence  of  a  very  dense  popula- 
tion along  the  lake.  It  must  have  been  a  stationary  one,  for 
these  works  could  not  have  been  executed  in  a  short  space 
of  time.  We  are,  likewise,  led  to  believe  that  they  were 
erected  by  the  same  nation  that  constructed  the  fortifi- 
cations described  by  Carver  as  existing  on  the  bank  of 
the  Mississippi  a  little  below  Lake  Pepin.  The  latitude  of 
the  encampment,  near  the  lower  extremity  of  the  lake,  was 


TT 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


251 


found,  by  observations  made  on  the  evening  of  the  29th  of 
June,  to  be  44°  18'  37"  north. 

Having  travelled  twenty-two  miles  along  its  western 
shore,  Major  Long  arrived  on  the  evening  of  the  30th  at 
an  Indian  village,  which  is  under  the  direction  of  Shakea, 
(the  man  that  paints  himself  red;  J  the  village  has  re- 
tained the  appellation  of  Redwing,  (aile  rouge, J  by  which 
this  chief  was  formerly  distinguished.  The  provisions  of 
the  party  being  almost  consumed,  and  the  boat  having  been 
seen  the  preceding  day  at  a  short  distance  below  the  land 
party,  Major  Long  thought  it  more  prudent  to  wait  here 
the  arrival  of  the  other  division,  in  order  to  get  a  fresh  sup- 
ply of  provisions.  About  ten  o'clock,  c  .  the  morning  of 
the  first  of  July,  the  boat  appeared  in  sight  of  the  village, 
and  signals  having  been  made,  the  gentlemen  landed.  The 
whole  party  being  again  united,  the  chief  invited  them  to 
his  lodge,  with  a  view  to  have  a  formal  conversation  with 
them. 

Shakea  is  one  of  the  mos'  distinguished  of  the  present 
leaders  of  the  Dacotas.  It  does  not  appear,  however,  that 
he  is  entitled  by  birth  to  rank  as  a  chief;  but  the  influence, 
which  he  has  attained,  is  founded  altogether  upon  his  great 
military  attainments;  it  is  said  that  he  has  never  been 
defeated,  although  he  has  shared  in  more  actions  than  al- 
most any  other  Indian.  The  respect  with  which  he  is  treat- 
ed, which  far  exceeds  that  usually  paid  to  a  partisan  chief, 
has  induced  him  to  assume  an  importance  and  a  formality, 
seldom  to  be  met  with  among  the  Indians  of  the  present  day. 
As  a  compliment  to  the  party,  the  United  States'  flag  was 
hoisted  over  his  cabin,  and  a  deputation  of  some  of  his 
warriors  waited  at  our  encampment  to  invite  us  to  his 
lodge.  We  were  received  in  due  ceremony ;  the  chief  and 
his  son,  T4tiink4man6,  (the  walking  bufi'alo,)  were  seated 


252 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


next  to  the  entrance.  We  took  our  stations  near  them,  on 
the  same  bed-frame,  while  his  warriors  seated  themselves  on 
the  frame  opposite  to  us ;  as  soon  as  we  entered,  the  chief 
and  his  son  rose,  and  shook  hands  with  each  of  us.  The 
calumet  of  peace  was  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  cabin ; 
the  bowl  resting  on  the  ground,  and  the  stem  supported  in 
an  inclined  position  by  a  forked  stick,  planted  in  the  ground 
for  the  purpose.  The  chief  then  rose,  shook  hands  with 
the  party  a  second  time,  raised  the  pipe  from  the  ground, 
and  holding  the  bowl  towards  himself  with  the  stem  ele- 
vated, he  commenced  a  speech  which  was  delivered  with 
much  vehemence;  the  purport  of  it  was  an  acknowledg- 
ment of  satisfaction,  at  seeing  a  party  sent  by  his  Great 
Father,  (the  President,)  and  a  general  expression  of  good 
will  and  respect  towards  the  American  government;  he 
inquired  as  to  the  nature  of  the  expedition  and  its  object 
Very  often  during  his  speech,  the  commencement  of  a 
sentence  was  in  the  concluding  terms  of  the  preceding  one; 
the  warriors,  at  each  sentence,  testified  their  approbation 
of  his  sentiments,  in  deep-toned  responses,  sounding  like 
the  syllables  ah-hah,  pronounced  strongly,  and  in  a  nasal 
and  guttural  manner.  Major  Long  stated,  in  reply,  the  na- 
ture and  object  of  the  expedition,  the  views  of  the  govern- 
ment in  sending  it  among  the  Indians,  the  friendly  dispo- 
sition of  the  President  towards  all  his  red  children,  &c. 
With  all  this  the  chief  appeared  well  pleased,  as  also  with 
the  presents  of  tobacco,  powder,  shot,  &c.  which  were 
given  to  him ;  but  he  stated  that  his  warriors  had  been 
much  distressed  of  late,  by  the  loss  of  numerous  friends  and 
relatives,  on  which  account  their  faces  were  painted  black, 
that  they  had  not  a  single  drop  of  spirits  to  comfort  them 
in  their  afflictions,  and  "  hoped  that  their  Father  would  give 
them  some  of  their  Great  Father's  milk  to  gladden  their 


SOURCE   OP   ST.    PETER*8   RIVEB. 


253 


hearts."  But  they  were  informed  that  the  expedition  was 
totally  unprovided  with  this  article,  as  it  was  their  Great 
Father's  wish,  that  the  Indians  should  not  receive,  from 
white  men,  liquor,  the  effect  of  which  was  to  drive  away 
their  senses,  make  them  quarrelsome  and  sick.  Sha- 
kea  assented  to  the  truth  of  this,  and  acknowledged  that 
the  use  of  liquor  was  very  injurious  to  them,  but  seemed, 
however,  to  regret  that  he  could  not  make  himself  merry 
on  the  occasion  of  the  glad  tidings  which  he  had  received 
from  his  Great  Father.  Both  he  and  his  son  made  speeches 
which  were  not  remarkable  for  the  beauty  or  originality 
of  the  ideas ;  these  may,  however,  have  lost  their  force 
through  our  interpreter's  inelegant  and  unanimated  trans- 
lation. But  the  gestures,  which  accompanied  the  words  of 
the  orator,  were  more  remarkable  for  force,  than  for  grace 
or  significance.  A  young  Indian  who  acted  as  pipe-bearer 
to  the  chief,  (an  office  of  dignity,)  theii  lighted  the  pipe, 
passed  it  round  to  all,  commencing  with  Major  Long,  pro- 
ceeding with  our  party,  and  concluding  with  the  warriors 
and  interpreter.  The  pipe-bearer  supported  the  bowl, 
while  each  person  present  drew  two  or  three  whiffs.  He 
then  smoked  of  it  himself,  and,  drawing  out  the  stem, 
presented  it  to  Major  Long  in  token  of  respect.  The  bowl, 
which  he  kept,  was  of  the  red  stone  found  on  the  St. 
Peter;  the  stem  was  of  wood,  and  made  in  the  usual  man- 
ner of  the  Dacota  pipe.  Its  length  is  about  three  feet,  it  is 
flattened,  being  about  two  inches  wide,  and  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  thick.  It  tapers  a  little  towards  the  upper  ex- 
tremity ;  a  hole  is  perforated  through  it,  with  a  hot  iron ; 
the  pipe  stem  is  painted  with  a  blue  clay,  which,  by  long  ex- 
posure to  the  air  assumes  a  green  colour ;  the  upper  extremitj^ 
to  about  one-third  of  its  length,  is  ornamented  with  por- 
cupine quills  variously  dyed,  so  as  to  present  beautiful  de- 


254 


EXPEDITION   TJD   THE 


signs ;  it  is  also  udorned  with  the  small  feathers  of  birds, 
pigeons,  &c.  and  with  the  hair  of  the  deer,  stained  red. 
Som';  of  these  pipes  are  very  elegant,  and  require  a  great 
deal  of  time  in  their  preparation ;  they  are  made  by  the  fe- 
males. The  chief  distinction,  between  the  Dacota  and 
Chippewa  pipe,  is,  that  the  latter  is  cylindrical  and  about 
an  inch  in  diameter;  while  the  former  is,  as  we  have  just 
mentioned,  flattened.  Both  nations  use  bowls  of  the  same 
stone,  which  i«  j^enorally  red,  sometimes,  however,  black; 
they  BTf     ^*'in  curiously  carved,  &c. 

The  a  ^rs  i  on  concluded  with  another  general  shak- 
ing of  the  i.and.  T;  e  frequency  of  this  ceremony,  during 
the  interview  which  we  had  with  the  Redwing  chief,  who 
is  considered  as  pertinaciously  adhering  to  all  their  old 
customs,  led  us  to  inquire  whether  the  practice  of  shak- 
ing hands  originally  existed  among  the  Indians,  or  if  it 
was  not  introduced  among  them  by  Europeans.  An  ac- 
quaintance with  many  nations  has  proved,  that  the  modes 
of  salutation  varied,  according  to  the  diversity  which  ex- 
ists in  their  manners,  languages,  &c.  It  would,  therefore, 
be  singular,  that  the  same  practice,  which  prevails  among 
us,  and  which  we  received  from  our  British  ancestors, 
had  existed  among  the  Indians,  whose  neighbours  wc 
have,  in  the  course  of  ages,  become.  With  a  view  to  clear 
this  point,  we  have  collected  a  number  of  authorities,  re- 
lating exclusively  to  the  North  American  Indians,  from 
which  we  have  been  led  to  believe,  that  the  practice  of 
shaking  hands,  was  acquired  by  their  intercourse  with 
white  men. 

We  find  that  among  many  Indians  a  different  mode  of 
salutation  formerly  prevailed.  Probably  one  of  the  most 
usual  methods,  for  an  Indian  to  welcome  a  stranger,  was 
to  pat  his  own  breast,  arms,  and  legs,  and  then  those  of  the 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETEr's   RIVER. 


255 


stranger.  We  are  told  that  the  Indians  on  the  Canada 
coast  received  Jacques  Cartier  by  "  feeling  him  and  rub- 
bing his  arms  and  breast,  with  their  hands,  according  to 
their  custom  of  caressing."*  And  again  a  chief  "  desired 
the  captain  to  give  him  his  arms  that  he  might  kiss  and 
touch  them,  as  is  their  practice  of  wclconiing  in  the  said 
land."t  The  practice  of  rubbing  down  the  limbs  of  the 
stranger  was,  probably,  first  introduced  for  the  purpose  of 
relieving  him  from  his  fatigue,  at  least  we  infer  it  from  the 
words  of  Father  Hennepin,  who  says,  "At  the  entry  of  the 
Captain's  Cabin,  who  had  adopted  me,  one  of  the  Barba- 
rians, who  seem'd  to  be  vcy  old,  presented  me  with  a  great 
Pipe  to  smoak,  and  weeping  over  me  all  the  while  wit* 
abundance  of  Tears,  rubb'd  both  my  Arms  and  my  Head. 
This  was  to  show  how  concern'd  he  was  to  see  me  so  hi- 
rassM  and  fatigu'd :  And  indeed  I  had  often  need  enough  of 
two  Men  to  support  me  when  I  was  up,  or  raise  me  when 
I  was  down.  There  was  a  Bears-Skin  before  the  j  ;e, 
upon  which  the  youngest  Boy  of  the  Cabin  caus'd  me  to 
lie  down,  and  then  with  the  Grease  of  Wild  Cats  anointed 
my  Thighs,  Legs,  and  Soles  of  my  Feet."  J  This  treatment 
was  among  the  Dacotas. 

Alvar  Nuiiez  also  observes,  that  the  rubbing  of  the  body 
was  a  mode  of  salutation  with  many  nations,  about  and 
west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  and  indeed  at  a  gi'eat 
distance  in-land.  In  the  account  of  the  first  expedition  to 
Virginia  in  1584,  the  narrator  expresses  himself  thus ;  Gran- 


•Lescarbot,  Histoire  dela  Nouvelle  France,  ii  Paris,  1618.  p.  254. 
t  Idem,  ibid,  p.  302. 

+  A  New  Discovery  of  a  Va«t  Country  in  America,  by  L,  Hennepin. 
London,  1698,  p.  210. 


256 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


ganimco,  an  Indian  on  the  coast  of  what  was  then  called 
Virginia,  made  "  all  signes  of  joy  and  welcome,  striking  on 
his  head,  and  his  breast,  and  afterwards  on  ours,  to  shewe 
that  we  were  all  one.*'*  When  they  reached  the  north 
end  of  the  island  of  Roanoak,  they  were  entertained  by 
Granganimeo's  wife,  in  a  house  that  had  five  rooms ;  their 
feet  were  washed  in  warm  water.t  The  practice  of  washing 
the  feet  is  also  mentioned  by  Joutel,  in  his  Account  of  de  la 
Salle's  Expedition  ;  and  the  Chevalier  de  Tonti  says,  "  the 
chiefs  of  the  Nation  came  towards  us ;  we  were  conducted 
through  a  double  file  of  armed  young  men,  to  very  neat 
cabins ;  the  remainder  of  our  entertainment  was  as  grotesque 
as  it  was  wild ;  women  of  a  dark  complexion,  but  very 
well  formed  and  half  naked,  washed  our  feet  in  wooden 
troughs.''^:  Different  practices  prevailed  among  other  na- 
tions. The  Clamcoets  near  the  Bay  of  St.  Bernard  some- 
times saluted  a  stranger  by  rubbing  his  breast  and  arms 
with  their  hands,  sometimes  by  blowing  in  his  ear;§ 
while  the  Cenis,  who  reside  on  their  northern  limit,  had  a 
different  usage.  Twelve  old  men,  with  the  right  hand  raised 
to  the  head,  ran  up  with  loud  cries  and  embraced  the  French.  j| 
In  Carolina  the  practice  of  scratching  the  shoulder  probably 
prevailed.  "  At  noon,"  says  Lawson, "  we  stay'd  and  re- 
fresh'd  ourselves  at  a  Cabin,  where  we  met  with  one  of  their 


•  Account  of  a  "  Voyage  of  Captains  Amadas  and  Bai'lowe  to  part  of 
the  countrey  now  called  Virginia,"  (in  Hackluyt's  collection.)  London, 
1589,  p.  729. 

t  Idem,  ibid,  p.  731. 

+  Relations  de  la  Louisianne  et  du  fleuve  Mississipi.  Amsterdam, 
1720,  being  Vol.  5,  of  a  "  Recueil  de  Voyages,"  &c. 

§  Journal  historique  du  dernier  Voyage  de  M.  de  la  Salle,  par  Joutel. 
Paris,  1713,  p.  74.  84. 

0  Idem,  ibid.  g.  220. 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  Peter's  river. 


357 


War-Captains,  a  Man  of  great  Esteem  among  them.  At  his 
Departure  from  the  Cabin,  the  Man  of  the  House  scratch'd 
this  War-Captain  on  the  Shoulder,  which  is  look'd  upon  as 
a  very  great  Compliment  among  them  ;"*  and  again, "  They 
are  free  from  all  manner  of  Compliments,  except  Shaking  of 
Hands,  and  Scratching  on  the  Shoulder,  which  two  are  the 
greatest  Marks  of  Sincerity  and  Friendship,  that  can  be 
shewM  one  to  another."!  Of  the  Esquimaux  we  find  the 
following  related,  in  the  account  of  Davis's  first  voyage  in 
1585 ;  "At  length  one  of  them,  poynting  up  to  the  Sunne 
witli  his  hande,  would  presently  strike  his  brest  so  hard 
that  we  might  here  the  blowe."t  When  John  Ellis  imi- 
tated their  action  the  Esquimaux  approached  with  confi- 
dence. In  a  tribe  of  Esquimaux  discovered  by  Captain 
Ross,  the  practice  of  pulling  noses  is  said  to  exist.  "  Sac- 
heuse  called  to  us  to  pull  our  noses,  as  he  had  discovered 
this  to  be  the  mode  of  friendly  salutation  with  them."§ 
This  was  in  latitude  75°  55'  N.  and  longitude  65°  32'  W. 

The  practice  of  shaking  hands  is,  however,  related  of 
several  Indians ;  Du  Pratz  states  it  to  exist  among  the 
Natchez  in  particular,  and  Indian  nations  generally,  refer- 
ring however  to  those  on  the  Mississippi.  ||  Miantonimo,  a 
Narraganset  chief,  after  a  conference  with  the  Governor, 
gave  him  his  hand  for  the  absent  Magistrates;**  but  this 
was  subsequent  to  1637.  The  habit  of  embracing  or  kiss- 
ing is  alluded  to  more  frequently.     At  Hochelaga,  now 

•  A  new  Voyage  to  Carolina,  by  John  Lawson,  Gent.  London,  1709, 
p.  42. 

jldem,  ibid,  p.  201. 

+  Hackluyt's  Collection,  p.  778. 

§  Ross'  Voyage,  London,  1819,  p.  86. 

B  Histoire  de  la  Louisianne,  par  Du  Pratz,  d  Paris,  1758.  Tome  2, 
p.  237. 

••  Hubbard's  Narrative  of  Indian  Wars,  Brattleborougb,  1814,  p.  54. 

Vol.  I.  33 


258 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


F 


Montreal,  the  French  were  welcomed  by  the  women  who 
kissed  their  faces.*  In  the  fourth  voyage  made  to  Vir- 
ginia in  1587,  it  is  said  tiiat  the  Indians  of  the  island  of 
Croatoan,  (on  the  coast  of  North  Carolina,)  "  threwe  away 
their  bowcs  and  arrowes,  and  some  of  them  came  unto  us, 
embracing  and  entertaining  us  friendly/'t  So  also  of  the 
Esquimaux  in  Davis's  second  voyage  in  1586;  "  they  came 
running  to  mee  and  tlie  rest,  and  embraced  us  with  many 
signes  of  hartie  welcome.''^  Wherever  the  Spanish  authors 
are  consulted,  wc  find  that,  in  addition  to  the  ceremony  of 
embracing  generally,  they  mention  the  kissing  of  hands 
and  prostrating  themselves;  thus,  although  it  is  stated, 
that  the  chief  Muscogo  welcomed  Juan  Ortiz  who  fled  to 
him  for  protection  by  embracing  him  and  kissing  his 
face,§  yet  we  find,  that  when  the  same  chief  went  to  the 
Spanish  camp,  he  kissed  De  Soto's  hands.  ||  The  Cacique 
of  Casquij  (on  the  Mississippi,)  is  also  stated  to  have  pros- 
trated himself  before  De  Soto.**  Garcilaso  de  la  Vega  men- 
tions, as  a  mode  of  salutation,  prostration  and  kissing  of 
the  hands ;  but  these  were  probably  to  superiors,  and  in 
token  of  veneration.  The  following  practice,  observed  at 
Kecoughtan,  (near  Chesapeake  Bay,)  is  a  curious  one,  but 
whether  used  as  a  mode  of  salutation  or  not,  we  are  unable 
to  tell.  "  Landing  at  Kecoughtan,  the  Savages  entertained 
them,"  (the  voyagers,)  "  with  a  doleful  noyse,  laying  their 
faces  to  the  ground  and  scratching  the  earth  with  their 
nayles."tt 

•  Lescarbot,  ut  supra,  p.  327. 
f  Hackluyt's  Collection,  ut  supra,  p.  767. 
i  Idem,  ibid,  p.  781. 

§  La  Florida  del  Inca,  en  Madrid,  1722.  p.  28. 
{  Idem,  ibid,  p.  33. 

••  Narrative  of  De  Soto*s  Invasion,  written  by  a  gentleman  of  Elvas 
and  translated  by  Hackluyt.    London,  1609,  p.  96. 
tt  Purchas  his  Pilgrimage,  London,  1614,  p.  768. 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETEr's   RIVER. 


$B9 


eman  of  Elva»» 


From  the  instances  which  we  have  cited,  and  we  might 
have  adduced  many  more,  we  are  led  to  believe  that,  wher- 
ever the  practice  of  shaking  hauds  has  been  observed,  it  had 
probably  been  received  from  the  English ;  for  the  only  three 
instances  which  we  have  mentioned  are  those  from  Hub- 
bard, I)u  Pratz,  and  Lawson.     The  first  of  these  authors 
states  it  of  the  New  England  Indians ;  the  second  is  com- 
paratively a  modern  writer,  his  book  having  been  publish- 
ed as  late  as  1758 ;  and  Lawson*s  authority,  though  generally 
yery  good,  is  less  decisive  in  this  instance,  because,  being 
himself  an  Englishman,  he  might  be  more  ready  to  ascribe 
this  practice  to  the  Indians,  than  any  other,  and  because  he 
speaks  of  Indians  who  had  already  some  acquaintance  with 
the  English ;  besides  we  find  that  he  describes  twice  the 
practice  of  scratching  the  shoulder,  as  a  mark  of  great  re- 
spect, from  which  circumstance,  we  are  led  to  believe, 
that  this  was  the  original  practice  of  the  Carolina  Indians. 
The  practice  of  kissing  hands  and  of  prostration,  being 
only  mentioned  by  Spanish  writers,  was  probably  the  con- 
sequence of  an  intercourse  with  Spaniards.   That  of  embrac- 
ing appears  more  general,  but  it  is  also  restricted  chiefly  to 
French  authors,  or  to  those  who  treat  of  Indians  that  had  been 
in  habits  of  intercourse  with  tlie  French.  One  exception  pre- 
sents itself,  however,  to  our  recollection,  it  is  in  the  first  recep- 
tion of  Captain  Lewis  by  the  Shoshonees.  "  The  three  men 
leaped  from  their  horses,  came  up  to  Captain  Lewis,  and  em- 
braced him  with  great  cordiality,  putting  their  left  arm  over 
his  right  shoulder  and  clasping  his  back,  applying  at  the 
same  time  their  left  cheek  to  his,  and  frequently  vociferating 
ah-hie !  ah-hie !     I  am  much  pleased,  I  am  much  rejoiced.' 
The  whole  body  of  warriors  now  came  forward,  and  our 
men  received  the  cai  esses,  and  no  small  share  of  the  grease 


/ 


3  GO 


KXPEDITION   TO   TUFj 


and  paint  of  their  new  friends."*  Notwithstanding  this 
instance,  we  consider  the  practice  of  embracing  as  not  ori- 
ginal with  tJje  Indians  in  general,  but  probably  in  most 
cases  derived  "from  the  French.  Indeed  we  have  ourselves 
heard  the  Indians  ridicule  the  frequent  kissing,  which 
they  observed  among  the  Canadians,  and  consider  ii  as 
unworthy  of  men. 

The  Redwing  chief  is,  at  present,  very  much  superan- 
nuated, but  he  is  stiil  respected  on  account  of  his  former 
distinguished  achievements.  When  Major  Taliaferro,  the 
Indian  agent,  visited  him,  not  long  since,  with  Morg  a  n 
the  principal  war  chief  of  the  Sauks,  the  latter  told  Tatun- 
kamane  to  his  face,  when  shaking  hands  with  him, that  he 
considered  hiin  as  a  very  unimportant  personage,  and  that 
he  only  took  him  by  the  hand,  out  of  respect  to  his  father, 
who  had  been,  to  them,  so  brave  and  active  an  enemy. 
The  Sauks  will  long  remember  the  injury  this  chief  did 
them.  Some  of  the  warriors,  whom  we  saw  iii  the  chief's 
cabin,  were  very  fine  looking  men.  One  of  them,  whose 
face  was  covered  over  with  charcoal,  bore  so  stroqg  a  re- 
semblance to  the  portraits  of  Napoleon,  that  all  our  party 
were  struck  with  it.  It  was  rather  to  Bonaparte  as  first 
consul,  than  as  emperor,  that  the  resemblance  was  great, 
for  he  had  not  the  corpulence  which  the  ex-emperor  had 
acquired.  Not  only  his  features,  but  even  the  conforma- 
tion of  his  head,  shared  in  the  geucral  resemblance.  We 
could  not  learn  that  he  was  a  distinguished  man  in  the  na- 
tion. 

Among  the  many  Indians  whom  we  saw  at  the  village,  one 

•  History  of  the  Expedition  under  the  command  of  Captains  Lewis 
and  Clarke,  Fbiladelpbia,  1814,  vol.  1,  p.  363. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


261 


consider  it  as 


at  the  village,  one 


I  of  Captains  Lewis 


of  those,  who  frequented  our  company  most,  was  an  old  man, 
by  the  name  of  Wk-zi-Jcd-td,  (Shooter  from  the  pine-top,) 
who  was  an  intolerable  beggar.  He  professed  much  friend- 
ship for  us,  was  very  fond  of  showing  his  knowledge  of 
our  language  by  the  freque.  i;  repetition  of  the  English- 
monosyllable  of  Indian  John  in  the  Spy.  This,  together 
with  a  few  of  the  most  common  expressions,  such  as  how 
d'ye  do,  good  bye,  &c.  completed  his  whole  stock  of  Eng- 
lish words.     This  man's  name  bears  a  striking  analogy  to 

t 

that  of  the  principal  chief  of  the  Issati  or  NadoUessis  whom 
Hennepin  met  on  the  Mississippi,  and  whom  he  calls 
"  Ouasicoud6,  (that  is  to  say  the  Pierc'd  Pine.")*  He  ac- 
companied Major  Long  on  part  of  his  journey  in  1817, 
but  scarcely  recollected  the  circumstance,  being  at  present 
very  old.  These  I"  Hans  were  much  pleased  with  the  sight 
of  our  travelling  m^  ,  they  displayed  great  intelligence  on 
the  occasion,  understanding  it  immediately ;  tracing  several 
fivers  with  their  fingers;  mentioning  their  names;  pointing 
to  the  portages,  &c.  Wazekota  laid  his  finger  upon  the  Falls 
of  St.  Anthony,  which  he  called  H&hiw6t6pd.  They  appear- 
ed quite  suprized  to  find  that  so  large  a  district  of  country 
could  be  represented  on  so  small  a  compass,  and  at  the 
same  time  be  so  distinct.  The  magnetic  needle  and  the 
mercury,  likewise  attracted  their  notice ;  they  expressed 
much  surprize  on  observing  that  iron  floated  upon  thip  fluid, 
with  the  same  buoyancy  that  cork  would  upon  water. 
They  considered  all  these  things  as  mysterious. 

Three  Menomone  Indians  were  here  on  a  visit,  having 
just  returned  from  the  St.  Peter,  where  they  had  beein 
hunting.    It  is  supposed  that  sixty  or  seventy  warriors  of 


•  Father  Hennepin's  Works,  ut  supra,  London  1698,  p,  217,  and 
delations  de  la  Louisiannc,  &c.  p.  292. 


" "  it 


263 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


•  :|     ''  7.    -.f^ 


their  nation  will  unite  with  Redwing's  band,  although  the 
principal  of  the  three,  a  fine  looking  stout  man,  thought 
proper  to  apologize  for  this  band,  saying  to  us,  that  the 
Sioux  were  hogs  and  beggars,  destitute  of  food,  and  ignorant 
of  the  duties  of  hospitality ;  but  that  when  we  should  arrive 
among  the  Chippewas,  we  would  be  received  as  strangers 
should  be ;  a  subsequent  experience  has  by  no  means  satis- 
fied us  of  the  superiority  of  the  Chippewas  over  the  Da- 
cotas.  The  complexion  of  these  Menomones  was  lighter 
than  that  of  any  Indians  we  saw  on  the  journey ;  one  of 
them  spoke  French ;  the  principal  one  had  abundance  of 
wampum  about  his  neck,  together  with  a  necklace  of  Cow- 
ries, (Cypraea  moneta.)  We  afterwards  learned  from  the 
Indian  agent  at  St.  Anthony,  that  this  is  an  eminent  war 
leader,  and  that,  when  his  party  unite  with  Redwing's,  he 
will  be  recognised  as  the  principal  war  chief.  This  Me- 
nomone  told  us,  that  the  tumuli  observed  back  of  the  vil- 
lage were  artificial,  and  ancient  cemeteries.  Tommo,  and 
the  Sioux,  whom  we  consulted  on  the  subject,  all  consi- 
dered them  as  natural  elevations.  As  they  do  not  bury 
their  dead,  but  dispose  of  them  on  scaffolds,  they  seem  to 
be  unacquainted  with  the  ancient  practice  of  interring. 

After  a  very  interesting  visit  to  this  village,  the  gentle- 
men again  separated.  Major  Long's  party,  being  provided 
with  a  proportion  of  the  boat's  provisions,  which  were 
becoming  scanty,  continued  their  journey  by  land  that  af- 
ternoon, and  reached  Fort  St  Anthony  the  next  evening 
wiihout  meeting  with  any  accident.  The  route  from  the  In- 
dian village  was  off  from  the  river,  it  was  rolling,  less  hilly 
than  had  been  previously  travelled ;  the  tumuli  increased  in 
number,  exceeding  in  abundance  any  that  the  party  had  ever 
seen  before,  at  times  upwards  of  one  hundred  of  them  were 
in  view.  A  stream  about  thirteen  yards  wide,  which  they 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER'S   RIVER. 


963 


crossed  a  short  time  after  leaving  the  village,  is  called  by  the 
Indians  Eiin6zindlLt4,  (High  rock,)  from  a  white  pyramidal 
rock  which  rises  to  a  considerable  height  near  this  stream,  a 
few  miles  above  the  place  where  they  crossed  it.  Being 
aware  of  its  existence,  and  knowing  that  it  would  not 
lengthen  the  journey  much,  they  were  anxious  to  pass  near 
it;  but,  whether  from  superstitious  motives  or  not,  Tommo 
seemed  unwilling  to  guide  them  in  that  direction.  This 
man  was  not  one  of  the  pleasantest  that  the  party  could  have 
had  to  accompany  them ;  although  he  was  selected  as  one 
of  the  best  in  the  vicinity  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  he  was  not 
agreeable.  He  wus  a  listless,  indifferent  kind  of  man ;  an 
incessant  smoker ;  his  pipe,  which  was  connected  with  his 
tomahawk,  was  in  constant  use ;  it  was  made  in  the  form 
of  a  shingling  hatchet  The  part  which  corresponded  with 
the  hammer  was  hollowed  out  for  the  bowl,  and  the 
handle  was  perforated  so  as  to  serve  as  the  stem  of  the 
pipe.  He  adverted  to  the  pipe  as  the  Indian's  only  so- 
lace in  hunger.  This  man  had  a  curious  specific  when  un- 
well ;  it  was  to  climb  a  tree,  cut  the  top  so  that  it  would 
bend,  and  then  let  himself  drop  down   from  it  to  the 


ground. 


The  first  boulders  which  had  been  seen  from  Rock 
river,  were  observed  by  Mr.  Colhoun  at  about  seven 
miles  from  Fort  St  Anthony ;  they  consisted  of  granite. 
A  very  great  change  iu  the  country  above  Lake  Pepin 
was  visible.  The  blufis  were  not  so  high,  they  were  more 
frequcitly  interrupted,  and  gave  a  new  character  to  the 
scenery  of  the  river.  The  distance,  by  land,  from  Prairie 
(lu  Chien  to  the  St  Peter,  is  two  hundred  and  eleven  miles ; 
it  was  travelled  in  eight  days,  hence  at  an  average  of 
twenty-six  and  a  half  miles  per  day.  This  may  be  consi- 
dered as  the  first  section  of  our  journey ;  the  whole  dis- 


264 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


r    C-* 


•.  '-'!•. 


I 


i,im 


■'f'^-h^l 


'M 


tancL  from  Philadelphia  to  this  place,  was  near  tiu;"iiL,ca 
hiuidrefi  miles,  which  were  travelled  in  sixty-fc'r  'l-yji, 
stoppages  included.  This  affords  an  average  of  iwenty 
miles  per  day. 

Having  followed  Major  Long's  division  from  the  Prairie 
to  this  place,  we  shall  take  a  hasty  glance  at  the  ooserva- 
tions  made  by  the  other  division,  during  their  progress  up 
the  river. 

This  division  consisted  of  Messrs.  Say,  Keating,  and 
Seymour,  with  Roque,  (the  interpreter.)  The  boat  was 
manned  by  the  corporal  and  eight  soldiers,  under  the 
command  of  Lieutenant  Scott  They  were  provided 
with  an  eight  oar  barge  with  a  sail,  or  rather  their  tent 
Jly,  which  was  used  as  a  substitute  for  one.  After  parting 
with  Major  Long,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  the  barge 
proceeded  up  the  Mississippi,  but  had  not  been  long  on  \U 
couit^.  before  symptoms  of  misconduct  broke  out  tining 
the  me  1 ;  and  Mr.  Scott  then  discovered  that,  whiic  the 
whole  party  were  conversing  with  Major  Long,  on  the  river 
bank,  the  men  had  broached  the  keg  of  liquor  and  helped 
themselves  to  its  contents  so  bountifully  as  to  be  soon  liTected 
by  it  As  soon  as  they  were  heated  by  the  exercise  of  row  mj, 
the  effects  of  the  whiskey  bec:ime  but  too  evident.  They 
lost  all  respect  for  their  o'lrer .  and  but  for  the  firm  stand 
which  he  took  upon  the  occasion  a  mutiny  would  inevita- 
bly have  broken  out;  but  having  called  for  his  pistols  and 
loaded  them  in  their  presence,  he  assured  them  that  the 
first  man  who  attempted  a  mutiny  must  do  it  at  the  risk  of 
his  life ;  the  crew  being,  however,  too  much  affected  by 
the  liquor  to  be  able  to  stem  the  strong  current  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, the  boat  was  ordered  to  the  shore,  and  the  party 
lay  by  for  a  few  hours. 

In  the  evening  the  men  being  a  little  sobered,  tliey  re- 


'-■"^  '  ■  .  ji.  '  '■'. 


SOURCE  OP  £>T.  tr:rEa's  river. 


265 


9.v.n,cxi  liieir  journey,  and  encamped  at  night  ;:bove  the 
Painted  Rock  river,  on  the  weii  bauk  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  distance  travelled  thai  day  did  not  exceed  nine  miles. 
The  bluffs,  which  appear  to  be  limestone,  (but  we  were  at 
too  great  a  distance  to  determine  the  fact  with  certainty,) 
continue  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  rise  to  a  considera- 
ble height     In  one  place  the  rock  is  very  steep  and  ap- 
parently inaccessible ;  the  difficulty  of  the  undertaking  was 
probably  the  motive  which  induced  the  Indians  to  attempt 
to  climb  it;  and  having  succeeded,  they  wished  to  perpe- 
tuate the  recollection  of  their  success  by  painting  upon  it, 
with  red  colours,  a  few  grotesque  figures.    It  is  said  that, 
when  these  are  effaced  by  time  or  washed  away  by  the  rain, 
they  are  soon  replaced  by  other  sketches  left  there  by  the 
Indians  who  are  constantly  passing  up  and  down  the  river. 
The  Painted  Rock,  like  every  frail  attempt  to  distinguish, 
by  artificial  means,  those  things  which  nature,  in  her  wild 
designing,  has  clothed  with  an  uniform  garb,  seizes  more 
powerfully  upon  the  imagination  of  the  trading  voyager 
on  our  western  streams,  than  the  finest  natural  features  of 
their  splendid  scenery ;  it  has  become,  therefore,  as  it  were, 
a  landmark  which  assists  the  traveller  in  tracing  his  pro- 
gress through  these  desert  regions.    The  weather  was  fair 
and  warm ;  the  wind  slight  but  adverse,  so  that  the  sail 
was  not  hoisted.     This  first  day's  voyage  on  the  Missis- 
sippi was  delightful  to  those  who  had  never  been  on  that 
river  before ;  the  magnificence  of  the  scenery  is  such, 
its  characters   differ  so  widely  from  these  of  the  land- 
scapes which  we  are  accustomed  to  behold  in  our  tame  re- 
gions, its  features  are  so  bold,  so  wild,  so  majestic,  that 
they  impart  new  sensations  to  the  mind;  the  very  rapidity 
of  the  stream,  altiiough  it  opposes  our  ascent,  delights  us  : 
it  conveys  such  an  idea  of  the  extensive  volume  of  water 
Vol.  L  34 


I  ''>  .m 


■  Jt. 


266 


JKX^BDTTION   TO   THB 


*1 


which  this  river  ceaselessly  rolls  towards  the  ocean.  The 
immense  number  of  islands  which  it  imbosoms,  also  con- 
tributes to  the  variety  of  the  scenery  by  presenting  it  con- 
stantly under  a  new  aspect. 

On  the  26th  of  June  the  wind  was  fair,  and  starting 
early,  the  party  proceeded  up  with  considerable  speed  j 
the  country  and  its  scenery  presenting  pretty  nearly  the 
same  characters  as  on  the  preceding  day.     In  the  course 
of  the  morning,  they  saw  the  appearance  of  a  cavern  in  the 
rocks,  and  landed  to  explore  it,  but  found  it  to  be  mere- 
ly a  small  excavation  of  no  account;  this  however  gave 
Mr.  Keating  an  opportunity  of  observing  that  the  bluff 
consisted  of  limestone,  which  in  the  upper  parts  became 
very  loose,  and  assumed  the  characters  of  the  asche  as 
mentioned  in  the  preceding  chapter.  Fragments  of  a  beau- 
tiful oolite  were  observed  below  it ;  they  were  loose  and 
angular,  some  of  them  of  a  large  size.     No  doubt  could 
exist  that  they  were  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  their 
original  sites,  but  the  necessity  of  taking  advantage  of  the 
iur  wind,  did  not  permit      search  after  the  rock  itseif. 
On  liie  left  bank  of  the  river,  a  small  stream  was  observ- 
ed to  put  in  ;  at  its  mouth  two  Menomone  lodges  were 
situated;   but  they  were  closed,   the  inhabitants   having 
doubtless  gone  on  their  summer  hunts.     At  some  distance 
beyond  this  they  passed,  on  the  right  bank,  the  mouth  of 
the  lawa,  a  river  celebrated  in  Indian  warfare  as  the  spot 
of  a  bloody  rencounter  between   the  Sioux  and  Sauks. 
At  ibrty-five  miles  from  Fort  Crawford  there  is  a  Winne- 
bago v'^Uge  of  a  few  huts;  it  was  surrounded  by  hand- 
some cvH'r  ftelds.     At  the  mouth  of  Bad-Axe  river,  a  little 
beyond  th.'i,  the  party  exchanged  a  few  words  with  two 
Menomone;  Indians  who  were  descending  in  a  canoe.  Two 
remarliable  capes  or  points  were  observed  on  the  right 
bank  tf  the  Mississippi  below  lawa  river;  the  lower  one 


TJ' 


SOURGS   OF   ST.   PETER's  RIVEB. 


867 


is  designated  by  the  name  of  Cape  Puant,  because  at  a 
time  when  the  Sioux  and  Winnebagoes,  (PuantSj)  were 
about  to  commence  hostilities,  a  party  of  the  latter  set  out  on 
an  expedition  to  invade  the  territory  of  the  Sioux  and  take 
them  by  surprise;  but  these  being  informed  of  the  de- 
sign, collected  a  superior  force,  and  lay  in  ambush  near  this 
place,  expecting  the  arrival  of  their  enemies.  As  soon 
as  the  Winnebagoes  had  landed,  the  Sioux  sallied  from 
their  hiding  places,  pressed  upon  them  as  they  lay  col- 
lected in  a  small  recess  between  the  two  capes,  drove 
them  into  the  river,  and  massacred  the  whole  party.  Gar- 
lic cape,  just  above  this,  strikes  the  voyager  by  the  sin- 
gularity of  its  appearance.  In  shape  it  represents  a  cone 
cut  by  a  vertical  plane  passing  through  its  apex  and  base ; 
its  height  is  about  four  hundred  feet.  The  peculiarity  of 
its  appearance  has  made  it  a  celebrated  landmark  on  the 
Mississippi.  Mr.  Seymour,  whose  pencil  was  frequently 
engaged  in  sketching  the  beautiful  features  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, took  a  hasty  view  of  this  as  the  boat  passed  near  it 
The  valley  is,  in  this  part,  almost  entirely  filled  by  the 
river  which  laves  the  base  of  the  bluffs  on  both  sides.  The 
river  spreads  in  some  places  to  the  width  of  three  or  four 
miles ;  its  channel  being  very  much  interrupted  by  num- 
berless islands,  which  render  the  navigation  difficult.  The 
bluffs  are  generally  from  four  hundred  to  five  hundred  feet 
high,  intersected  with  numerous  ravines,  and  exhibiting 
signs  of  being  the  commencement  of  a  hilly  and  broken 
inland  country. 

One  of  the  soldiers  was  this  day  very  sick  of  mania 
a  potu.  At  times  he  was  perfectly  insane,  probably  from 
having  suddenly  given  up  the  use  of  strong  liquor,  in 
which  he  had  previously  indulged  himself  very  freely. 
He  continued   sick   during  the   rest  of  the  voyage  up 


4  ,  lijjj  *"" 


268 


KXl'EDITION    TO   THE 


•  ■  X.J- 


m 


^Vi-v 


the  Mississippi.  It  was  a  liorrid  sight,  in  a  small 
boat,  not  more  than  thirty  feet  long,  in  which  the  par- 
ty were  much  cramped  for  want  of  room,  to  behold  a 
man  affected  with  occasional  fits  of  raving,  and  these  of 
the  most  distressing  kind ;  he  made  frequent  attempts  to 
threw  himself  overboard,  which  at  last  induced  Mr.  Scott 
to  have  him  secured  to  the  mast ;  he  was  very  loquacious 
in  his  insanity,  replying  as  he  thought  to  the  voice  of  his 
officers  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  whom  he  fancied  he  heard 
calling  him ;  at  times  he  became  ironical,  bursting  into 
a  wild  and  convulsive  laughter,  then  launching  out  into 
profane  and  abusive  language ;  in  fine,  exhibiting  all 
the  workings  of  a  disordered  imagination.  At  one  of  the 
encampments,  he  broke  his  bonds  and  wandered  near  a 
swamp  ;  men  were  sent  after  him  who  were  out  a  long  time 
before  they  overtook  him ;  he  was  for  a  while  given  up 
for  lost,  and  it  was  by  the  most  fortunate  chance  that  he 
was  at  last  discovered  by  one  of  the  men  wading  through 
a  swamp ;  had  he  proceeded  much  further  he  must  have 
perished  in  this  fen.  Mr.  Say  having  administered  to  him 
the  proper  remedies,  he  gradually  recovered,  but  finding  it 
agreeable  to  abstain  from  work,  feigned  sickness,  and  his 
insanity  was  observed  apparently  increasing  while  the 
other  symptoms  indicated  a  general  improvement  in  his 
health ;  suspecting  that  he  was  playing  the  old  soldier,  Mr. 
Say  prescribed  the  use  of  an  oar  as  a  sudorific,  by  which 
he  soon  recovered  the  use  of  his  lost  senses. 

The  party  had  encamped  for  the  night  on  a  prairie,  be- 
tween Raccoon  and  Bad-Axe  rivers,  but  the  mosquitoes, 
which  had  hitherto  proved  very  tormenting,  becoming 
still  more  so,  they  determined,  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night, 
to  resume  their  journey.  If  a  sleepless  night  was  to  be 
spent,  it  was  better  to  pass  it  in  the  boat,  in  the  middle  of 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


269 


the  stream,  where  at  least  they  would  be  relieved  from 
the  torment  of  the  mosquitoes.  The  breeze,  which  was  fa- 
vourable, allowed  the  barge  to  proceed  with  considerable 
rapidity  for  three  hours,  when  the  wind  increased  into  a  gale, 
which  rendered  the  navigation  dangerous.  After  having  at- 
tempted, for  a  time,  to  continue,  in  despite  of  the  violence  of 
the  storm,  they  were  obliged  to  draw  near  the  shore.  A  very 
heavy  rain  fell  for  several  hours,  to  which  they  remained 
exposed  in  the  boat,  having  no  protection  but  that  afforded 
them  by  their  blankets.  Notwithstanding  the  comfortless 
situation  in  which  they  found  themselves,  there  was  an 
irresistible  interest  in  the  scene.  A  storm  is  at  all  times 
one  of  the  most  splendid  phenomena  in  nature ;  but  when 
experienced  in  the  gloomy  forests  of  the  Mississippi,  in 
the  midst  of  a  solitude,  with  no  companions  but  a  few  fel- 
low sufferers,  standing  in  a  shivering  attitude  in  a  small 
boat,  it  receives  an  additional  interest;  every  flash  of 
lightning  displays  a  scene  which  the  painter  would  wish 
to  fix  upon  the  eanvass.  The  loud  peals  of  thunder  resound 
more  forcibly  when  reverberated  by  the  rocky  bluffs, 
which  border  upon  the  river,  and  they  contrast  sublimely 
with  the  low  but  uninterrupted  muttering  of  the  rolling 
waters.  About  sunrise  the  storm  ceased,  the  weather  clear- 
ed up,  the  party  resumed  their  journey,  and  continued  it 
until  breakfast  time,  when  they  were  gratified  to  stop  and 
make  a  fire  to  dry  their  clothes  and  repair  the  damage  oc- 
casioned by  the  storm.  While  at  their  encampment  of  the 
preceding  evening,  the  attention  of  the  party  was  sud- 
denly roused  by  the  faint  and  indistinct  soundsof  a  human 
voice,  singing  at  a  distance.  It  was  soon  evident  that  the 
words  were  English,  and  the  air  a  familiar  one  to  all  the 
party ;  after  a  while  the  noise  of  a  paddle  was  distinctly 
heard,  and  by  hailing  they  brought  to  the  shore  a  canoe 


J 


i! 


«70 


EXPEDITION    TO    THJi 


that  was  gliding  down  the  river,  with  two  discharged  sol- 
diers from  Fort  St.  Anthony.  The  country  which  borders 
upon  the  river  abounds  in  rattlesnakes,  the  party  killed 
several  during  their  journey  to  Lake  Pepin,  above  which 
it  has  been  said  that  they  are  never  seen.  In  examining; 
the  head  of  this  serpent,  Mr.  Say's  thumb  was  punctured  by 
several  of  the  small  acute  teeth,  while  it  pressed  upon  the 
roof  of  the  mouth ;  and  on  laying  open  the  vesicle  of  poi- 
son, B  portion  of  the  fluid  flowed  under  the  thumb  and 
found  its  way  into  one  of  the  punctures,  and  altliough  the 
quantity  must  have  been  very  small,  it  gave  rise  to  muili 
pain  and  numbness  in  the  part;  it  however  soon  subsided, 
producing  but  little  swelling. 

The  travelling  on  the  27th  was  not  very  rapid  owing  to 
a  head  wind,  but  no  time  having  been  spent  on  shore,  the 
party  reached  the  Prairie  de  la  Crosse  in  time  to  encamp 
there ;  this  has  been  incorrectly  called  the  Cross,  (crux,) 
prairie.  The  name  of  ihis  spot  is  derived  from  a  game 
very  much  in  favour  among  the  Indians  ;  it  is  played  with 
u  ball,  and  is  probably  not  very  unlike  some  of  the  games 
of  white  men.  This  prairie  being  very  level  and  fine,  is 
admirably  well  calculated  for  this  purpose ;  and  was  for- 
merly much  frequented  by  the  Indians.  There  were  a 
few  remains  of  Indian  encampments  upon  it,  of  one  of 
which  the  party  took  possession,  for  the  purpose  of  shel- 
tering themselves  during  the  night.  Within  a  few  yards 
of  their  encampment  they  discovered  several  graves,  over 
which  flags  were  hanging,  indicating  that  the  deceased  had 
been  men  of  some  consequence.  The  party  proceeded, 
early  the  next  morning,  and  passed  the  mouth  of  Black 
river,  one  of  the  most  important  tributaries  of  the  Missis- 
sippi ;  it  is  much  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
timber,  as  the  forests,  which  grow  upon  its  banks,  are 


® 


SOURCE  OV  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


171 


ischarged  sol- 
which  borders 
le  party  killed 
,  above  which 
In  examining; 
5  punctured  by 
sssed  upon  the 
vesicle  of  poi- 
he  thumb  and 
d  altliough  the 
e  rise  to  muili 
soon  subsided, 

rapid  owing  to 
it  on  shore,  the 
ime  to  encamp 
Cross,  (crux,) 
ed  from  a  game 
t  is  played  with 
le  of  the  games 
vel  and  fine,  is 
e ;  and  was  for- 
There  were  u 
3n  it,  of  one  of 
lurpose  of  shel- 
in  a  few  yards 
ral  graves  J  over 
:he  deceased  had 
jarty  proceeded, 
mouth  of  Black 
s  of  the  Missis- 
Dse  of  obtaining 
its  banks,  are 


h 


much  finer  than  those  on  the  Mississippi.     Not  only  docs 
it  supply  the  fort  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  but  even,  as  we  are 
informed,  much  of  the  "  pine  timber,  used  at  St  Louis,  is 
cut  here."*  The  voyagers  have  remarked  that  the  number 
of  islands,  in  this  part  of  the  Mississippi,  is  so  great,  that 
there  are  but  few  spots  where  both  banks  of  the  river  can 
be  seen  at  the  same  time ;  this  is,  however,  the  case,  at  a 
short  distance,  above  the  mouth  of  Black  river;  and  one 
mile  above  this  place  the  bluffs,  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
approach  within  eight  hundred  yards  of  each  other.     The 
wind  being  ahead,  and  strong,  the  progress  of  the  boat  was 
slow.     On  the  evening  of  the  28th,  the  party  reached  the 
spot  which  has  been  described,  by  all  travellers,  as  a  great 
natural  curiosity,  though,  in  fact,  it  presents  nothing  extra- 
ordinary.    It  is  termed,  by  the  voyagers,  the  Montague 
qui  trempe  dans  Veau.     This,  which  we  understand  to  be 
but  the  translation  of  the  Indian  name  for  it,  means  "  the 
mountain  that  soaks  in  the  water."     It  is  a  rocky  island 
corresponding  with  the  adjoining  bluffs,  and  separated  from 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  by  a  narrow  sluice.     This  insu- 
lated portion  of  highland  appears,  when  seen  from  a  dis- 
tance, to  stand  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  its  base  is 
washed  by  the  water ;  but  on  approaching  towards  it,  it  is 
found  to  be  very  near  the  cast  bank  of  the  river ;  and  as 
well  as  the  party  could  judge  from  the  opposite  bank,  along 
which  they  were  coasting,  there  was  at  that  time  but  lit- 
tle or  no  water  between  the  "  mountain"  and  the  left 
bank.     Pike  has,  in  his  journal,  stated  its  height  at  about 
two  hundred  feet ;  from  a  trigonometrical  admeasurement 
of  it,  made  in  1817,  iMajor  Long  estim  tes  its  elevation  at 
five  hundred  feet ;  although  his  instruments  did  not  allow 

•  Major  Long's  MS.  1817,  No.  2,  folio  4. 


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EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


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i  iii 


him  to  take  his  mear  urements  with  the  greatest  accuracy, 
yet  this  must  be  very  near  the  true  height;  since  the 
island  is  as  elevated  as  the  adjoining  bluffs,  which  are 
among  the  highest  that  are  to  be  seen  above  the  Wisconsan. 

Mr.  Schoolcraft  has  been  led  into  error,  in  his  account 
of  it,  when  he  represents  thr  island,  on  which  it  stands,  as 
being  four  or  five  miles  in  circumference.  Mr.  Scott,  who 
travelled  down  the  Mississippi  a  week  after  we  ascended 
it,  measured  it,  and  found  it  to  be  only  about  a  mile  in  cir- 
cumference. Neither  can  we  agree  with  the  same  author 
when  he  states  that  it  "  divides  the  river  into  two  equal 
halves,  and  gives  an  immense  width  to  the  river."*  Per- 
haps the  most  remarkable  feature  about  this  mountain  is 
that  "  it  is  the  third  island  of  the  Mississippi  from  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  to  this  place  that  has  a  rocky  foundation 
similar  to  that  of  the  neighbouring  bluffs,  and  that  rises 
nearly  to  the  same  height  as  these."t  The  other  islands 
in  this  river  are  merely  formed  by  the  alluvion  collected 
by  the  stream,  and  are  chiefly  sandy ;  many  of  them  are 
covered  with  a  fine  vegetation. 

Early  on  the  29th,  the  boat  reached  Wapasha's  village ; 
the  gentlemen  landed,  and  were  disappointed  on  being  in- 
formed that  they  had  failed  in  seeing  Major  Long's  party  by 
about  an  hour.  Being  anxious  to  become  better  acquaint- 
ed with  an  Indian,  who  is  held  in  such  high  esteem  among 
the  powerful  and  extei.si  /e  nation  of  the  Dacotas,  as  Wa- 
pasha  is,  they  gave  the  old  chief  an  invitation  to  enter  in- 
to their  boat,  which  he  readily  accepted,  but  declined  ac- 
companying them  up  to  Fort  St.  Anthony,  as  his  band 
had  heard,  that  morning,  of  the  approach  of  their  enemies, 


•  Narrative  Journal  of  Travels,  &c.  by  H.  R.  Schoolcraft,  p.  335. 
t  Major  Long's  MS.  No.  2,  folio  5. 


OL. 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETER  S   RIVER. 


373 


the  Chlppewas,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name ;   he  had 
sent  out  some  of  his  warriors  to  scout,  and  thought  it  in- 
cumbent  on  him  to  remain  and  watch  over  his  band  ;  but 
as  our  party  was  ascending  in  the  direction  in  which  his 
warriors  had  gone,  he  said  he  would  proceed  with  us 
that  ftir.     The  gentlemen  were  interested  by  the  apparent 
calmness  with  which  he  spoke  of  the  approach  of  his  ene- 
mies.   No  consternation  prevailed  in  the  village ;  the  men 
were,  it  is  true,  ali  painted,  as  for  war,  and  a  number  of 
them  were  absent ;  but  the  old  chief  was  lying  down  with 
the  greatest  unconcern ;   his  preparations  for  departure 
were,  however,  soon  made,  and  he  accompanied  the  party 
in  the  boat;  his  son-in-law  and  another  Indian  paddling 
his  canoe  in  the  rear.     Wapasha  spoke  of  the  advantages 
of  the  arts  and  agriculture ;  of  his  wish  to  see  them  in- 
troduced ;  he  expressed  his  desire  to  accept  the  invitation, 
given  him  by  the  Indian  agent,  to  accompany  him  to  the 
seat  of  government,  as  he  was  anxious  to  see  how  every 
thing  was  managed  among  white  men.     One  of  the  ob- 
jects of  which  he  spoke  with  the  greatest  rapture  was  the 
steam-boat,  which  had  ascended  the  river  in  the  spring, 
and  which  he  considered  as  a  wonderful  invention.     We 
were  told  that  when  this  boat  had  come  up,  he  was  taken 
on  board,  and  the  machine  was  exhibited  to  him  ;  he  ap- 
peared to  take  great  interest  in  the  explanations  of  it,  which 
were  given  to  him.     During  Major  Long's  visit  to  Wapa- 
sha's  village  in  1817,  he  witnessed  part  of  a  very  interest- 
ing ceremony  known  by  the  name  of  the  bear  dance.   "  It 
is  usual  to  perform  it  when  a  young  man  is  anxious  to 
bring  himself  into  notice  ;  and  it  is  considered  as  a  sort  of 
initiation  into  the  state  of  manhood.  On  the  ground,  where 
it  was  performed,  there  was  a  pole  supporting  a  kind  of 
flag,  made  of  a  fawn's  skin  dressed  with  the  hair  on  ;  upon 


Vol.  I. 


35 


274 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


the  flesh  side  of  it,  were  drawn  certain  figures  indicative 
of  the  dream  which  the  candidate  had  enjoyed  ;  for  none 
can  go  through  this  ceremony,  who  has  not  been  favoured 
with  dreams.    To  the  flag  a  pipe  was  suspended  as  a  sa- 
crifice ;  two  arrows  were  stuck  up  at  the  foot  of  the  pole ; 
and  painted  feathers,  &c.  were  strewed  upon  the  gft)und 
near  it.     These  articles  appertained  to  the  religious  rites, 
which  accompany  the  ceremony,  and  which  consist  in  be- 
wailing and  self  mortifications  ;  the  object  of  these  is  that 
the  Great  Spirit  may  be  induced  to  pity  them  and  assist 
them  in  the  undertaking.     At  two  or  three  hundred  yards 
from  the  flag  there  is  an  excavation  which  they  call  the 
b   tr's  hole,  and  which  is  prepared  for  the  occasion ;  it  is 
about  two  feet  in  depth,  and  has  two  ditches,  each  one 
foot  deep,  leading  across  it  at  right  angles.     The  candi- 
date places  himself  in  this  hole  to  be  hunted  by  the  rest 
of  the  young  men,  all  of  whom,  on  this  occasion,  are 
dressed  in  their  best  attire,  and  painted  in  their  neatest 
style.     The  hunters  approach  the  hole,  in  the  direction 
of  one  of  the  ditches,  and  discharge  their  guns,  which 
were   previously   loaded    with   blank  cartridges,   at  the 
youth,  who  acts  the  part  of  the  bear ;  whereupon  he  leaps 
from  his  den,  having  a  hoop  in  each  hand,  and  a  wooden 
lance;  the  hoops  serving  as  forefeet  to  aid  him  in  charac- 
terizing his  part,  and  his  lance  to  defend  him  from  his  as- 
sailants. Thus  accoutred,  he  dances  round  the  plain,  exhi- 
biting various  feats  of  activity,  wliile  the  other  Indians 
pursue  him  and  endeavour  to  trap  him,  as  he  attempts  to 
return  to  his  den;  to  effect  which,  he  is  permitted  to  use, 
with  impunity,  any  violence  that  he  pleases  against  his  as- 
sailants, even  to  taking  the  life  of  any  of  them.    This  part 
of  the  ceremony  is  performed  three  times,  that  the  bear 
may  escape  from  his  den  and  return  to  it  again,  through 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


275 


three  of  the  avenues  communicating  with  it.  On  being 
hunted  from  tlic  fourth,  or  last  avenue,  the  bear  must  make 
hi's  escape  through  all  his  pursuers,  if  possiblf,  and  fly  to 
the  woods,  where  he  is  to  remain  through  the  day.  This, 
however,  is  seldom  or  never  accomplished,  as  all  the  young 
men  exert  themselves,  to  the  utmost,  in  order  to  trap  him. 
When  caught,  he  must  retire  to  a  lod  '■e  prepared  in  the  field 
for  his  reception ;  there  he  is  to  be  secluded  from  all  so- 
ciety during  the  day,  except  that  of  one  of  his  particular 
friends,  whom  he  is  allowed  to  take  with  him,  as  an  at- 
tendant. There  he  smokes  and  performs  various  other  rites 
which  superstition  has  led  the  Indian  to  consider  as  sa- 
cred ;  after  this  ceremony  is  ended,  the  youth  is  considered 
as  qualified  to  act  any  part,  as  an  efficient  member  of  the 
community.  The  Indian  who  has  had  the  good  fortune  to 
catch  the  bear  and  overcome  him,  when  endeavouring  to 
make  his  escape  to  the  woods,  is  considered  a  candidate 
for  preferment,  and  is,  on  the  first  suitable  occasion,  ap- 
pointed a  leader  of  a  small  war  party,  in  order  that  he  may 
have  a  further  opportunity  of  testing  his  powers,  and  ol 
performing  some  essential  service  in  behalf  of  his  nation. 
It  is  accordingly  expected  that  he  will  kill  some  of  their 
enemies,  Jind  return  with  their  scalps."* 

Wapasha  informed  the  gentlemen  in  the  boat^  that  the 
Chippewa  Indians  had  been  very  troublesome,  frequently 
descending  the  river  that  bears  th  'ir  name,  and  cutting  off 
small  parties  of  the  Dacotas  that  were  hunting.  He  spoke 
also  of  the  advantages  of  having  a  mill  built  at  the  rapids 
of  Chippewa  river,  as  had  been  promised  to  them  by 
the  American  government ;  finally,  after  a  few  hours'  con- 
versation, he  left  the  boat,  and  crossed  over  in  his  canoe 
to  the  spot  where  his  out-posts  were  supposed  to  be.    The 


Major  Long'3  MS.  1817,  No.  ?,  folio  6, 


276 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


i:ii' 


party  encamped  that  evening  on  a  sandbar  in  the  Missis- 
sippi, opposite  to  the  mouth  of  Buflalo  river.  The  next 
morning,  a  head  wind  detained  the  boat  a  long  while,  but 
it  afterwards  shifted,  and  the  party  ascended  so  rapidly, 
that  early  in  the  afternoon  they  found  themselves  within 
a  few  miles  of  the  lower  extremity  of  Lake  Pepin; 
they  were  very  desirous  of  visiting  the  fortifications  des- 
cribed by  Carver  as  being  on  the  Mississippi,  "some  miles 
below  Lake  Pepin."  Mr.  Schoolcraft  states,  upon  the  au- 
thority of  a  Mr.  Hart,  a  trader,  that  they  are  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river,  a  circumstance  not  mentioned  by  Car- 
ver. We  spoke  with  the  oldest  traders  in  the  country, 
with  those  who  had  been  all  their  lifetime  in  the  habit  of 
encamping  in  that  vicinity,  but  met  wilh  none  who  had 
ever  seen  them  or  heard  of  them.  Mr.  Rolette,  a  part- 
ner in  the  American  Fur  Company,  mentioned  that  he 
supposed  the  most  probable  place  was  at  a  well-known 
spot  on  the  river,  called  the  "  Grand  Encampment,"  situ- 
ated a  few  miles  south  of  Lake  Pepin.  This  gentleman, 
who  had  encamped  there  very  frequently,  had,  however, 
never  observed  any  thing  like  fortifications.  On  drawing 
near  to  the  bank  at  this  place,  a  regular  ejlevation  of  the 
ground,  parallel  to  the  water's  edge,  struck  us  as  an  artifi- 
cial embankment;  but  on  landing,  and  inspecting  it,  the 
gentlemen  of  the  party  unanimously  agreed,  that  there 
was  here  no  appearance  of  ancient  works,  but  that  the 
features  observed  were  natural.  The  next  question  was, 
whether  this  was  the  place  visited  and  described  by  Car- 
ver, and  whether  he  had  seen  aJlificial  works,  or  mistaken 
for  them  the  natural  peculiarities  of  the  surface;  upon 
this  point  there  was  a  difference  of  opinion.  Messrs.  Say  and 
Scott  thought  that  the  description  of  the  locality,  given  by 
Carver,  wassutlicientto  identify  it  with  this  spot,  and  that  as 
it  was  impossible  that  they  should  not  have  bbservedfortifi- 


I  I 


i\ 


SOURCE    OP   ST.    PETER  S   RIVER. 


277 


cations  covering  near  a  mile  of  ground,  upon  a  prairie  that  is 
not  more  than  two  and  a  half  miles  wide,  it  was  probable 
that  this  traveller  had  mistaken  a  natural  for  an  artificial 
embankment.  Agreeing  in  the  fact  that  there  were  no  ar- 
tificial  works  here,  Mr.  Keating  considered  this  as  proof 
that  the  Grand  Encampment  was  not  the  spot  alluded  to 
by  Carver;  for  although  the  general  description  agrees 
with  that  given  by  the  traveller,  yet  the  same  might  be 
said  of  many  other  spots ;  the  minuteness  of  the  descrip- 
tion which  Carver  gives  of  these  remains,  precludes,  as  he 
thought,  the  opinion  that  he  had  mistaken  a  natural  em- 
bankment. Although  no  gentleman  of  the  party  would 
he  willing  to  ascribe  to  Carver  a  scrupulous  adherence  to 
truth,  (personal  observation  having  convinced  them  all  of 
the  many  misrepresentations  contained  in  his  work,)  yet 
the  description  of  these  mounds  appeared  to  one  of  them 
entitled  to  more  credit,  because,  as  it  is  bei.oved  to  be 
the  first  which  was  given  by  travellers  in  America, 
it  cannot  be  supposed  to  have  been  copied  from  others; 
because  the  authority  of  Mr.  Hart's  testimony  seems  to 
be  on  that  side  of  the  question,  as  well  as  that  of  General 
Pike,  who  probably  saw  the  spot  mentioned  by  Carver,  as 
we  find  in  his  journal  this  observation;  "  Stopt  at  a  prairie 
on  the  right  bank  descending,  about  nine  miles  below  Lake 
Pepin ;  went  out  to  view  some  hills,  which  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  old  fortifications  spoken  of,  but  I  will  speak 
more  fully  of  them  hereafter."*  Whether  these  were  simi- 
lar to  those  which  he  describes  as  having  seen  on  the 
Prairie  de  la  Crosse,t  we  have  not  been  able  to  ascertain. 
But  the  strongest  argument  in  favour  of  the  existence  of 


•  An  account  of  Expeditions  to  the  Sources  of  the  Mississippi,  8ic. 
by  Major  Z.  M.  Pike,  Philadelphia,  1810,  p.  93. 
t  Idem,  p.  18. 


218 


EXPKDITION   TO    THE 


'';1'' 


the  fortifications  described  by  Carver,  is  the  circumstance 
of  the  many  mounds  and  remains  observed  by  Major 
Lon<»;  and  Mr.  Colhoun,  between  Wapar;ha':-  village  and 
the  St.  Peter,  many  of  which  were  seen  near  th"  southern 
extremity  of  Lake  Pepin.  Although  it  does  not  appear 
that  they  met  with  any  parapets,  yet  as  .these  were  found 
near  the  Wisconsan,  in  connection  with  the  mounds,  there 
is  reason  to  believe  that  they  may  likewise  have  been  erected 
in  this  vicinity.  Takingall  these  facts  into  consideration, Mr. 
Keating  was  led  to  the  conclusion,  that  Carver  had  really 
seen  the  works  which  he  has  described,  but  that  they  pro- 
bably were  not  at  the  Grand  Encampment*  The  party 
landed  at  another  place  above  this,  which  appeared  to  cor- 
respond with  the  description  of  the  locality,  but  their 
search  here  was  likewise  unsuccessful.  At  a  late  hour  in 
the  afternoon  they  reached  the  southern  extremity  of 
Lake  Pepin,  and  proceeded  until  sunset,  when  the  weather 
appearing  stormy,  they  encamped  upon  a  sandy  point  that 
projects  about  six  miles  above  its  southern  extremity. 
They  had  not  been  there  many  hours  before  a  high  nor- 
therly wind  began  to  blow,  which  proved  the  propriety  of 
their  encamping  there ;  for  the  navigation  of  this  lake  is  re- 
presented as  very  dangerous  whenever  the  wind  blows  fresh. 
Le  lac  est  petit,  ?nais  it  est  malin,  was  the  reply  of  the 
intei"pretei  to  a  question  as  to  the  propriety  of  coniinuing 
our  course  during  the  night.  The  next  morning  the  wea- 
ther was  fair  and  calm,  we  resumed  our  journey  through 
the  lake,  with  great  ease,  until  we  cam?,  within  about 
three  miles  of  its  upper  extremity,  when  the  wind  increas- 
ed ;  we  were  soon  satisfied,  by  our  own  observation,  that 


•  Vide  '.   .ree  years  Travels  through  the  Intcilor  parts  of  North 
America,  he.  by  Captain  Jonathan  Carver,  Philadelphia,  1796^  p.  35, 


SOURCE   OP    ST.    PETER  S    RIVER. 


279 


the  slightest  breath  of  wind  will  produce  a  heavy  swell 
upon  this  lake.     From  this  circumstance,  it  is  usual,  with 
the  voyagers,  on  the  river,  to  cross  it,  if  possible,  at  night; 
experience  having  satisfied  them  that  it  is  generally  calmed' 
then,  than  during  the  day.     The  lake  is  about  twenty-one 
miles  long,  and  its  breadth,  which  varies  from  one  to  three 
miles,  may  be  averaged  at  about  two  and  a  half.    Towards 
its  southern  extremity   the  valley  widens  considerably, 
from  tne  circumstance  that  Chippewa  river  unites  with  the 
Mississippi  at  this  place.    That  river  is  about  five  hundred 
yards  wide,  at  its  mouth,  and  is  navigable  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year  by  pirogues  for  fifty  miles;  and  in  time  of 
freshes  they  can  proceed  much  further  up.  Lake  Pepin,  in 
most  places,  fills  nearly  the  whole  of  the  valley  betweon 
the  contiguous  bluffs.    In  two  spots,  however,  a  handsome 
piece  of  meadow  land  is  observeti,  which  will  offer  great 
inducements  for  the  establishment  of  farms.     The  general 
direction  of  the  lake  is  from  west  north-west  to  east-south- 
east.  The  scenery  along  its  shores  contrasts  strongly  witli 
that  of  the  river.    Instead  of  the  rapid  current  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi winding  around  numberless  islands,  some  of  which 
present  well-wooded  surfaces,  while  others  are  mere  sand- 
bars, the  lake  presents  a  smooth  and  sluggish  expanse  of 
water,  uncheckered  by  a  single  island,  and  whose  surface 
at  the  time  we  first  observed  it,  towards  the  close  of  the  day, 
was  unruffled ;  nothinj^  limited  the  view  but  the  extent  of 
the  lake  itself ;  the  majestic  blufl's,  which  enclose  it,  extend 
in  a  more  regular  manner,  and  with  a  more  uniform  ele- 
vation than  those  along  the  river.     When  seen  from  the 
top  of  one  of  these  eminences,  the  country  is  found  very 
different  from  that  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mountain  island, 
passed  on  the  28th  of  Ju^ne,  for  it  is  rather  rolling  than 
hilly ;  and  the  quantity  of  timber  upon  it  is  comparatively 


2S0 


EXl'EOiriON    To    TUB 


i   f 


t^V'ii^ 


Kmall,  especially  to  the  west,  where  it  assumes  Ihe  general 
characters  of  an  elevated  prairie  land.  About  half  way  up 
the  lake,  its  eastern  bank  rises  to  a  height  of  near  four  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet,  c*"  which  the  first  one  hundred  and 
fifty  are  formed  by  a  perpendicular  bluff,  and  the  lower 
three  hundred  constitute  a  very  abrupt  and  precipitous 
slope,  which  extends  from  the  base  of  the  bluflto  the  edge 
of  the  water.  This  forms  a  point,  projecting  into  the  lake, 
and  bounded  by  two  small  basins,  each  of  which  is  Uie  es- 
tuary of  a  brook  that  falls  into  the  lake  at  this  place.  The 
wildness  of  the  scenery  is  such,  that  even  the  voyager, 
who  has  gazed  with  delight  upon  the  high  bluffs  of  the 
Mississippi,  is  struck  with  uncommon  interest  on  behold- 
ing this  spot.  There  is  in  it  what  we  meet  with  on  no  other 
point  of  the  far-stretching  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  a  high 
projecting  point,  a  precipitous  crag  resting  upon  a  steep  bank 
whose  base  is  washed  by  a  wide  expanse  of  water,  the  calm- 
ness of  which  contrasts  with  the  savage  features  of  the  lands- 
cape; but  this  spot  receives  an  additional  interest  from  the 
melancholy  tale  which  is  connected  with  it,  and  which  casts 
a  deep  gloom  over  its  brightest  features.  Cold  and  callous 
must  be  the  heart  of  the  voyager  who  can  contemplate  un- 
moved and  uninterested  the  huge  cliffs  that  enclose  this 
lake,  for  "  wild  as  the  accents  of  lovers'  farewell  are  the 
hearts  which  they  bear,  and  the  tales  v^'hich  they  tell." 

"  There  was  a  time,"  our  guide  said,  as  we  passed 
near  the  base  of  the  rock,  "  when  this  spot,  which  you 
now  admire  for  its  untenanted  beauties,  was  the  scene 
of  one  of  the  most  melancholy  transactions,  that  has 
ever  occurred  among  the  Indians.  There  was,  in  the 
village  of  Keoxa,  in  the  tribe  of  Wapasha,  during  the 
time  that  his  father  lived  and  ruled  over  them,  a  young 
Indian  female  whose  name  was  Winoria,  which  signi- 


f  way  up 
four  Imii- 
ilrcd  aud 
he  lower 
recipitous 
the  edge 
the  lake, 
is  the  es^: 
iace.   The 
voya2;cr, 
Liffs  of  the 
)n  bchold- 
n  no  other 
ppi,  a  high 
steep  bank 
r,  the  calm- 
f  the  lands- 
st  from  the 
which  casts 
\nd  callous 
mplate  un- 
nelose  this 
rell  are  the 
:y  tell." 
we  passed 
which  you 
the  scene 
that  has 
^ras,  in  the 
during  the 
m,  a  young 
hich  signi- 


SOURC£   OF   ST.   PETER'S   RIVEl. 


Ml 


fies"the  first  born.*'  She  had  conceived  an  attachment  for 
a  young  hunter  who  reciprocated  it ;  they  had  frequently 
met,  and  agreed  to  an  union  in  which  all   their  hopes 
centred ;  but  on  applying  to  her  family,  the  hunter  was 
surprised  to  find  himself  denied ;  and  his  claims  super- 
seded by  those  of  a  warrior  of  distinction,  who  had  sued 
for  her.    The  warrior  was  a  general  favourite  with  the  na- 
tion ;  he  had  acquired  a  name,  by  the  services  which  he  had 
rendered  to  his  village  when  attacked  by  the  Chippewas ; 
yet  notwithstanding  all  the  ardour  with  which  he  pressed 
his  suit,  and  the  countenance  which  he  received  from  her 
parents  and  brothers,  Winona  persisted  in  preferring  the 
hunter.     To  the  usual  commendations  of  her  friends  in  fa- 
vour of  the  warrior  she  replied,  that  she  had  made  choice 
of  a  man  who,  being  a  professed  hunter,  would  spend  his 
life  with  her,  and  secure  to  her  comfort  and  subsist,  ice, 
while  the  warrior  would  be  constantly  absent,  intent  upon 
martial  exploits.  Winona's  expostulations  were,  however, 
of  no  avail,  and  her  parents,  having  succeeded  in  driving 
away  her  lover,  began  to  use  harsh  measures  in  order  to 
compel  her  to  unite  with  the  man  of  their  choice.    To  all 
her  entreaties,  that  she  should  not  be  forced  into  an  union 
80  repugnant  to  her  feelings,  but  rather  be  allowed  to  live 
a  single  life,  they  turned  a  deaf  ear.     Winona  had  at  all 
times  enjoyed  a  greater  share  in  the  affections  of  her  fa- 
mily, and  she  had  been  indulged  more,  than  is  usual  with 
females  among  Indians.     Being  a  favourite  with  her  bro- 
thers, they  expressed  a  wish  that  her  consent  to  this  union 
should  be  obtained  by  persuasive  means,  rather  than  that  she' 
should  be  compelled  to  it  against  her  inclination.    With  a 
view  to  remove  some  of  her  objections,  they  took  means 
to  provide  for  her  future  maintenance,  and  presented  to 
the  warrior  all  that  in  their  simple  mode  of  living  an  In- 
VoL.  I.  36 


I 


ii(i2 


EXPEDITION    TO    THB 


Uian  iniglit  covet  About  that  time  a  party  was  formed  to 
ascend  from  the  village  to  Lake  Pepin,  in  order  to  lay  in  a 
store  of  the  blue  clay  which  is  found  upon  its  banks,  and 
which  is  used  by  the  Indians  as  a  pigment.  Winona  and  her 
friends  were  of  the  company.  It  was  on  the  very  day  that 
they  visited  the  lake  that  her  brothers  offered  their  presents 
to  the  warrior.  Encouraged  by  these,  he  again  addressed  her, 
but  with  the  same  ill  success.  Vexed  at  what  they  deemed 
an  unjustifiable  obstinacy  on  her  part,  her  parents  remon- 
strated in  strong  language,  and  even  used  threats  to  com- 
pel her  into  obedience.  "  Well,"  said  Winona,  "  you  will 
drive  me  to  despair;  I  said  I  loved  him  not,  I  could  not 
live  with  him ;  I  wished  to  remain  a  maiden ;  but  you 
would  not  You  say  you  love  me;  that  you  are  my  father, 
my  brothers,  my  relations,  yet  you  have  driven  from  me 
the  only  man  with  \/hom  I  wished  to  be  united  ;  you  have 
compelled  him  to  withdraw  from  the  village ;  alone,  he 
now  ranges  through  the  forest,  with  no  one  to  assist  him, 
none  to  spread  his  blanket,  none  to  build  his  lodge,  none 
to  wait  on  him ;  yet  was  he  the  man  of  my  choice.  Is  this 
your  love  ?  But  even  it  appears  that  this  is  not  enough ; 
you  would  have  me  do  more  ;  you  would  have  me  rejoice 
in  his  absence ;  you  wish  me  to  unite  with  another  man, 
with  one  whom  I  do  not  love,  with  whom  I  never  can  be 
happy.  Since  this  is  your  love,  let  it  be  so;  but  soon 
you  will  have  neither  daughter,  nor  sister,  nor  relation, 
to  torment  with  your  false  professions  of  affection." 
As  she  uttered  these  words,  she  withdrew,  and  her  parents, 
heedless  of  her  complaints,  decreed  that  that  very  day 
Winona  should  be  united  to  the  warrior.  While  all  were 
engaged  in  busy  preparations  for  the  festival,  she  wound 
her  way  slowly  to  the  top  of  the  hill ;  when  she  had  reach- 
ed the  summit,  she  called  out  with  a  loud  voice  to  her 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER's   RIVER. 


883 


friends  below;  she  upbraided  them  for  their  cruelty  to 
herself  and  her  lover.  "  You,"  said  she,  "  were  not  satisfied 
with  opposing  my  union  with  the  man  whom  I  had  chosen, 
you  endeavoured  by  deceitful  words  to  make  me  faithless 
to  him,  but  when  you  found  me  resolved  upon  remaining 
single,  you  dared  to  threaten  me ;  you  knew  me  not  if  you 
thought  that  I  could  be  terrified  into  obedience;  you  shall 
soon  see  how  well  I  can  defeat  your  designs."  She  then 
commenced  to  sing  her  dirge;  the  light  wind  which 
blew  at  the  time,  wafted  the  words  towards  the  spot  where 
her  friends  were;  they  immediately  rushed,  some  to- 
wards the  summit  of  the  hill  to  stop  her,  others  to  the 
foot  of  the  precipice  to  receive  her  in  their  arms,  while 
all,  with  tears  in  their  eyes,  entreated  her  to  desist  from 
her  fatal  purpose ;  her  father  proii;  ised  that  no  compulsive 
measures  should  be  resorted  to.  But  she  was  resolved,  and 
as  she  concluded  the  words  of  her  song,  she  threw  her- 
self from  the  precipice,  and  fell,  a  lifeless  corpse,  near  her 
distressed  friends.  Thus,'*  added  our  guide,  "  has  this  spot 
acquired  a  melancholy  celebrity ;  it  is  still  called  the  Mai- 
den's rock,  and  no  Indian  passes  near  it,  without  involun- 
tarily casting  his  eye  towards  the  giddy  height,  to  contem- 
plate the  place,  whence  this  unfortunate  girl  fell  a  victim 
to  the  cruelty  of  her  relentless  parents." 

In  the  annals  of  civilized  life,  the  sad  tale  of  Winona's 
adventures  has  been  but  too  often  realized ;  and  the  evi- 
dences of  the  powerful  influence  of  feeling  over  women 
are  too  well  known  to  produce  any  sensation  of  surprise 
at  their  recurrence.  But  it  is  seldom  that  the  wild 
inhabitant  of  the  forest  is  admitted  to  possess  the  same 
depth  of  feeling.  Judging  of  both  sexes  from  the  in- 
stances which  have  been  related  of  the  apathy,  assumed 
or  real,  of  the  Indian  warrior,  too  many  are  induced  to  be- 


2S4 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


11 


im 


i^^&Jjrv- 


lieve,  that  the  uncivilized  condition  of  the  savage  deprives 
him  of,  or  stifles  in  him,  all  passion ;  but  this  is  not  the  case. 
The  fate  of  Winona  has  many  parallels,  which  are  not  all 
equally  well  known.  There  were  in  the  circumstances  of 
this  case,  several  conditions  which  tended  to  impart  to  it 
a  peculiar  interest;  the  maid  was  one  who  had  been  a  fa- 
vourite in  her  tribe ;  the  warrior  whom  her  parents  had 
selected  was  one  of  note ;  her  untimely  end  was  a  public 
one:  many  were  the  witnesses  to  it;  it  was  impressive  in 
the  highest  degree;  the  romantic  situation  of  the  spot, 
which  may  be  thought  to  have  had  some  influence  over  the 
mind  of  a  young  and  enthusiastic  female,  who  found 
herself  at  that  time  *'  perplex'd  in  t.  ^e  extreme,"  must  have 
had  a  corresponding  efiect  upon  those  who  witnessed  it 
Wazecota,  who  was  there  at  the  time^  though  very  young, 
appeared  to  have  received  an  indelible  impression  from  it, 
and  when  relating  it  to  Major  Long  in  1817;  the  feelings 
and  sensations  of  his  youth  seemed  to  be  restored ;  he  lost 
the  garrulity  of  age,  but  spoke  in  a  manner  which  showed 
that  even  the  breast  of  the  Indian  warrior  is  not  proof 
against  the  finest  feelings  of  our  nature.  Had  Winona,  in- 
stead of  taking  the  fatal  leap,  put  an  end  to  her  existence 
in  the  midst  of  a  forest,  by  suspending  herself  to  a  tree,  as 
is  generally  practised  by  those  Indian  women  whom  distress 
impels  to  suicide,  her  fate  would  still  have  been  unknown 
to  us ;  a  few  of  her  friends  might  have  wept  over  her  un- 
timely lot,  but  the  traveller  would  have  passed  over  the 
spot  where  she  had  ended  her  woes,  without  having  his 
sympathies  awakened,  as  they  now  are,  by  the  recital  of 
this  terrible  catastrophe.  While  the  circumstances  of  this 
tale  were  related  to  us,  Mr.  Seymour  was  engaged  in 
sketching  this  interesting  spot  We  have  introduced  his 
view  of  it  here,  (Plate  IV,)  as  it  gives  a  correct  idea  pf 


SOURC£   OF  ST.   PETER^S   RIVER. 


385 


the  scenery  of  the  upper  part  of  the  Mississippi,  which 
has  never,  we  think,  been  accurately  represented.  We  re- 
gretted that  it  was  not  possible  to  reduce,  to  the  proper 
size,  a  fanciful  delineation  of  the  tragic  event  which  we 
have  related.  Mr.  Seymour  painted  one  of  this  kii  in 
which  the  landscape  was  represented  with  the  most  laith- 
ful  accuracy,  but  which  he  animated  and  enlivened  by  the 
introduction  of  a  numerous  party  of  Indians,  in  whom  the 
characteristics  of  the  Dacotas  were  strikingly  delineated. 
The  unfortunate  Winona  was  represented  at  the  time  when 
she  was  singing  her  dirge,  and  the  various  groups  of  In- 
dians below  indicated  the  corresponding  effect  upon  the 
minds  of  the  spectators. 

The  first  European  that  ever  reached  this  lake  was  Fa- 
ther Hennepin,  who  saw  it  in  the  month  of  April,  1680, 
and  who  gives  the  tbllowing  description  of  it:  "About 
thirty  Leagues  above  Black  river  we  found  the  Lake  of 
Tears,  which  we  named  so,  because  the  Savages,  who  took 
us,  as  it  will  be  hereafter  related,  consulted  in  this  place 
what  they  should  do  with  their  Prisoners ;  and  those  who 
were  for  murthering  us,  cryed  all  the  night  upon  us,  to 
oblige,  by  their  Tears,  their  Companions  to  consent  to  our 
Death.  This  Lake  is  formed  by  the  Meschasipi,  and  may 
be  seven  Leagues  long  and  five  broad.  Its  Waters  are  almost 
standing,  the  Stream  being  hardly  perceptible  in  the  mid- 
dle." We  have  not  been  able  to  discover  the  origin  of 
the  name  which  the  lake  now  bears,  it  is  evidently  a  French 
name.  While  ascending  the  lake,  we  observed  floating 
upon  the  surface,  a  large  fish  which  had  been  wounded 
with  a  harpoon  or  lance ;  we  caught  it,  and  found  it  to  be 
a  Paddle-fish.*     This  fish  is  distinguished  by  a  protu- 

*  Platirostra  Edentula,  (Lesueur.)    Vide  Appendix  I.  B. 


286 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


i;^ 


berance  or  rostrum,  which  extends  from  the  nose  about 
fourteen  inches,  and  which  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
form  of  a  paddle,  has  obtained  for  it  the  common  appella- 
tion of  Paddle-fish.  The  Mississippi  unites  with  the  up- 
per extremity  of  the  lake  by  three  channels,  vhich  are 
separated  by  islands.  Upon  one  of  these  we  landed,  and 
found  the  passenger  pigeons  to  be  very  numerous,  so  that  in 
a  few  minutes  a  number  of  them  were  killed.  We  likewise 
saw  here  a  rattlesnake,  which  disproves  the  assertion  of 
some  authors  that  this  animal  is  not  found  above  Lake 
Pepin.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  they  arc  scarce  above 
this  place,  as  this  was  the  last  one  seen  by  our  expedition. 
Mr.  Schoolcraft  states,  that  Governor  Cass'  expedition  like- 
wise met  with  it  above  Lake  Pepin,  and  he  even  observes 
that  it  exists  as  high  on  the  Mississippi  as  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony.  Ono  of  the  guides,  Joseph  Reinville,  whom  we 
shall  have  occasion  to  mention  hereafter,  informed  Mr. 
Colhoun  that  he  had  killed  them  on  Big  Stone  Lake,  which 
is  near  the  head  of  the  St.  Peter. 

About  four  miles  above  the  lake  is  the  site  of  Redwing's 
village,  at  the  mouth  of  Cannon  river.  Immediately  below 
the  village  there  is  a  singular  hill,  which,  from  its  form, 
which  is  supposed  to  resemble  a  barn,  ha»  been  called  the 
Grange,  it  is  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  long,  and  four 
hundred  fe'3t  high.  Its  acclivity  on  the  east  or  river  side 
is  very  abn.pt,  on  the  west  or  prairie  side  it  is  quite  ver- 
tical ;  it  stands  insulated  from  the  rest  of  the  highlands. 
Immediate!}'  upon  the  highest  point  of  the  Grange,  Major 
Long,  who  ascended  it  in  1817,  observed  an  artificial 
mound,  whose  elevation  above  its  base  was  about  five  feet. 

Having  left  the  Redwing  village  early  in  the  afternoon 
of  July  1st,  the  party  continued  to  ascend  the  river;  the 
current  had  again  become  very  strong;  they  proceeded 


1  I 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


287 


that  evening  to  a  place  below  the  St.  Croix  river ;  this 
stream  enters  the  Mississippi  on  its  left  bank ;  at  its  mouth 
it  is  about  one  hundred  yards  wide,  but  immediately  above  it 
expands  to  a  breadth  of  from  three-fourths  to  two  miles,  and 
forms  what  is  called  St.  Croix  Lake.  Pike,  in  his  journal, 
describes  the  Mississippi,  for  a  considerable  distance  below 
the  St.  Croix,  as  of  a  reddish  appearance  in  shoal  water, 
but  black  as  ink  in  deep.*  The  red  colour  is  owing  to  the 
sand  seen  at  the  bottom,  which  is  of  that  complexion ;  the 
dark  colour  is  no  more  than  what  is  common  to  deep  wa- 
ter that  is  moderately  limpid. 

On  the  2d  of  July  we  passed  what  is  termed  the  nar- 
rowest place  on  the  Mississippi  below  the  Falls  of  St  An- 
thony ;  the  river  is  here  clear  of  islands,  and  not  more  than 
one  hundred  or  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  broad. 
Piket  states  that  his  men  rowed  across  in  forty  strokes  of 
the  oar,  but  Major  Long  found  in  1817,  that  his  "  boat 
crossed  it,  from  a  dead  start,  in  sixteen  strokes."  J  A  great 
change  in  the  scenery  of  the  river  is  perceptible ;  instead  of 
running  between  two  parallel  walls  of  considerable  altitude, 
the  river  there  passes  through  a  rolling  prairie  country, 
where  the  eye  is  greeted  with  the  view  of  extensive  undu- 
lated plains,  instead  of  being  astonished  by  the  sight  of  a 
wild  and  gigantic  scenery.  At  the  St.  Croix  the  bluffs  sel- 
dom rise  to  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water  level.  The 
valley,  through  which  the  river  runs,  is  more  uniform  in 
its  breadth,  but  the  river  is  crooked  and  its  channel  im- 
peded by  sandbars,  the  current  rapid  so  that  the  progress 
of  the  boat  was  slow.  The  party  landed,  for  a  few  minutes, 
to  examine  a  stone  which  is  held  in  high  veneration  by 


•  Pike,  ut  supra,  p.  24.  f  Idem,  ibid, 

t  Major  Long's  MS.  1817,  folio  12. 


I  .* 


285 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


the  Indians ;  on  account  of  the  red  pigment  with  which  it 
is  bedawbed,  it  is  generally  called  the  painted  stone.  They 
remarked  that  this  was  the  first  boulder  of  primitive  rock, 
which  they  had  seen  to  the  west  of  Rock  river,  and  this 
place  corresponds  well  with  that  at  which  these  boulders 
were  first  observed  by  Mr.  Colhoun  while  travelling  by 
land.  It  is  a  fragment  of  sienite,  which  is  about  four  and 
a  half  feet  in  diameter.  It  is  not  surprising  that  the  In- 
dians should  have  viewed  this  rock  with  some  curiosity,  and 
deemed  it  wonderful,  considering  that  its  characters  differ 
so  materially  from  those  of  the  rocks  which  are  found  in 
the  neighbourhood.  A  man  who  lives  in  a  country  where  the 
highest  hills  are  wholly  formed  of  sandstone  and  secondary 
limestone,  will  necessarily  be  struck  with  the  peculiar  cha- 
racters of  the  first  specimen  of  granite  that  comes  under 
his  notice,  and  it  is  not  to  be  wonuered  at,  that  one  who 
"  sees  God  in  all  things,"  should  have  made  of  such  a  stone 
an  object  of  worship.  The  Indians  frequently  offer  pre- 
sents to  the  Great  Spirit  near  this  stone ;  among  the  offer- 
ings of  their  superstition,  the  painty  found  the  feather  of  an 
eagle,  two  roots  of  the  "  Pomme  de  Prairie,"  (Psoralea  es- 
culenta,  Nuttall,)  painted  with  vermilion ;  a  willow  branch 
whose  stem  was  painted  red,  had  been  stuck  into  the 
ground  on  one  side,  &c.  The  gentlemen  broke  off  a  frag- 
ment of  this  idol,  to  add  to  the  mineralogical  collections, 
taking  care,  however,  not  to  leave  any  chips,  the  sight  of 
which  would  wound  the  feelings  of  the  devotee,  by  con- 
vincing him  that  the  object  of  his  worship  had  been  vio- 
lated. The  party  landed  at  a  short  distance  above,  to  visit 
the  cemetery  of  an  Indian  village,  then  in  sight.  The  ce- 
metery is  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  but  elevated  above  the 
water's  level ;  it  exhibits  several  scaffolds,  supporting  cof- 
fins of  the  rudest  form;  sometimes  a  trunk,  (purchased 


souRC£  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


289 


from  a  trader,)  at  other  times  a  blanket,  or  a  roll  of  bark, 
conceal  the  bodies  of  the  deceased.  There  were,  also,  several 
graves,  in  which  are  probably  deposited  the  bones,  after  all 
the  softer  parts  have  been  resolved  into  their  elements,  by 
long  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  Returning  to  the  boat,  the 
party  ascended  and  passed  an  Indian  village  consisting  often 
or  twelve  huts,  situated  at  a  handsome  turn  on  the  river,  about 
ten  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter ;  the  village  is  gene- 
rally known  by  the  name  ohhe  Petit  Corbeau^ov  Little  Ra- 
ven, wliich  was  the  appellation  of  the  father  and  grandfather 
of  the  present  chief.  He  is  called  Chfi-tdn-w&-k6-a-m4-n6,  (the 
good  sparrow  hunter.)  The  Indians  designate  this  band  by 
the  name  of  K^Sp6'ji,  which  implies  that  they  are  deemed 
lighter  and  more  active  than  the  rest  of  the  nation.     As 
the  village  was  abandoned  for  the  season,  we  proceeded 
without  stopping.     The  houses  which  we  saw  here  were 
differently  constructed  from  those  which  we  had  previously 
observed.  They  are  formed  by  upright  flattened  posts,  im- 
planted in  the  ground,  without  any  interval  except  here 
and  there  some  small  loopholes  for  defence ;  these  posts 
support  the  roof,  which  presents  a  surface  of  bark.  Before 
and  behind  each  hut,  there  is  a  scaffold  used  for  the  pur- 
pose of  drying  maize,  pumpkins,  &c.    The  present  chief 
is  a  good  warrior,  an  artful,  cunning  man,  remarkable 
among  the  Indians  for  his  wit,  and,  as  is  said,  for  his  cour- 
tesy to  white  men,  endeavouring,  as  far  as  he  can,  in  his 
intercourse  with  the  latter,  to  imitate  their  manners. 

Above  this  village,  there  is  a  cave  which  is  much  visit- 
ed by  voyagers ;  we  stopped  to  examine  it,  although  it 
presents,  in  fact,  but  little  to  admire ;  it  is  formed  in  the 
sandstone,  and  is  of  course  destitute  of  those  beautiful  ap- 
pearances, which  characterize  the  caverns  in  calcareous 
rock.     It  is  the  same  which  is  described  by  Mr.  School- 

VoL.  I.  37 


290 


JEXPEPITION   TO   THE 


craft,  whose  name,  as  well  as  those  of  several  of  Governoi* 
Cass*  party  we  found  carved  on  the  rock.  In  his  account 
of  it,  Mr.  Schoolcraft  states  it  to  be  the  cavern  that  was 
visited  by  Carver,  but  adds  that  "  it  appears  to  have  un- 
dergone a  considerable  alteration  since  that  period."  It 
appears  from  Major  Long's  MS.  of  1817,  that  there  are  two 
caves,  both  of  which  he  visited,  the  lower  one  was  Carver's ; 
it  was  in  1817  very  much  reduced  in  size  from  the  dimen- 
sions given  by  Carver ;  the  opening  into  it  was  then  so  low, 
that  the  only  way  of  entering  it  was  by  creeping  in  a  pros- 
trate position.  Our  interpreter,  who  had  accompanied  Ma- 
jor Long,  as  a  guide,  told  us  that  it  was  now  closed  up; 
it  was  probably  near  the  cemetery  which  we  have  men- 
tioned. The  cavern  which  we  visited,  and  which  Mr. 
Schoolcraft  describes,  i<i  s'luated  five  miles  above;  it  was 
discovered  in  1811,  and  is  called  the  Fountain  cave ;  there 
is  a  beautiful  stream  running  through  it,  whose  tempera- 
ture, as  observed  by  Major  Long  on  the  16th  of  July,  vvas 
46°  (F.)  and  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  on  the  2d  of  August,  47°. 
The  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  the  day  that  Major 
Long  made  his  observation,  was  89°.  From  these  results, 
as  well  as  from  several  others  which  we  obtained,  we  have 
been  led  to  adopt  about  46°  as  the  average  temperature  of 
springs  in  this  latitude,  and  in  this  district  of  country. 

At  a  late  hour,  in  the  night  of  the  2d  of  July,  the  boat 
entered  the  St.  Peter,  and  proceeded  up  the  river  opposite 
to  the  fort ;  but  it  being  too  late  to  approach  the  works,  the 
gentlemen  spent  the  night  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river, 
preferring  to  lay  out  in  the  open  air,  than  to  share  with  a 
Frenchman  and  his  Indian  family  the  sheltei  of  a  hovel. 
The  distance,  by  water,  had  always  been  estimated  at  about 
ninety  leagues  or  two  hundred  and  seventy  miles.  In  Mr. 
Schoolcraft's  journal  it  is  estimated  at  two  hundred  and 
sixty-five  miles.   It  was  measured  on  the  ice  in  February, 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER  S   RIVER. 


291 


1822,  by  Sergeant  Heckle,  of  the  garrison,  who  reduced 
the  distance  to  two  hundred  and  twelve  miles ;  his  mea- 
surement was  made  by  means  of  a  perambulator  of  his  own 
invention  ;  be  is  said  to  have  made  allowance  for  the  crook- 
ed channel  followed  by  voyagers  ,  from  the  time  which  we 
consumed  in  ascending,  making  a  due  allowance  for  the 
speed  of  the  opposing  current,  we  should  have  estimated 
the  distance  at  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  The  time 
required  for  this  journey  varies  from  eight  to  twenty  and 
twenty-tive  days,  according  to  the  wind ;  for  it  is  impos- 
sible to  row  against  the  current  with  a  strong  head  wind. 
Our  boat  made  the  trip  in  seven  days  and  a  half,  which 
was  considered  the  shortest  that  had  been  known  of  at  the 
fort.  In  1817,  Major  Long  ascended  in  eight  days  to  the 
falls,  which  are  nine  miles  higher.  Pike  was  eighteen  days 
in  reachmg  the  same  spot.  Mr.  Scott,  who  returned  to 
Prairie  du  Chien  the  next  day  after  his  arrival  at  the  fort, 
reascended  the  river,  completing  Lis  voyage  to  and  from 
the  Prairie  in  nine  days  and  a  half,  a  speed  hitherto  un- 
known. The  average  passage  down  the  river  is  three  days  ; 
it  has  been  performed  in  forty-eight  hours. 

The  streams  that  enter  the  Mississippi  between  the  Wis- 
flonsan  and  the  St.  Peter  are  numerous,  but  for  the  most  part 
unimportant.  Those  which  alone  deserve  to  be  mentioned 
are,  on  the  west  side,  the  Cannon,  Root,  and  lawa  rivers ;  on 
the  east  side,  the  St.  Croix,  Chippewa,  and  Black  rivers.  Of 
these  the  St.  Croix  and  Chippewa  head  near  some  of  the 
streams  tributary  to  Lake  Superior.  It  was  the  Chippewa 
river  that  Carver  ascended  after  having  visited  the  Falls  of 
St  Anthony,  and  thence  descending  one  of  the  neighbour- 
ing streams,  probably  the  Montreal  river,  reached  Lake  Su- 
perior. The  St.  Croix  rises  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Bois 
Brul6,  which  also  falls  into  the  Lake  ;  there  is  a  portage  of 
two  miles  between  these  streams.  This  is  one  of  the  routes 


i 


292 


EXPEDITION  TO   THB 


Upon  which  most  trade  has  heen  carried  on.  Lake  St  Croix 
extends  thirty  miles,  beyond  which  the  river  continues  na- 
vigable for  about  twenty  miles,  when  its  navigation  is  said 
to  be  obstructed  by  a  rapid ;  but  above  this,  the  stream  is 
a  very  pleasant  one  to  travel,  and  sufficiently  deep  for 
loaded  canoes. 

Game  seems  to  be  disappearing  very  rapidly  from  the 
face  of  the  country.  Buffaloes  of  the  largest  size  were  for- 
merly found  here;  a  few  were  still  to  be  seen  in  1817,  on 
the  river  that  bears  their  name,  and  that  discharges  itself 
into  the  Mississippi  below  Lake  Pepin ;  but  since  the  es- 
tablishment of  the  gan-icon  at  Foit  St.  Anthony,  they  have 
all  been  destroyed  or  have  removed  further  west.  The 
party  that  travelled  in  the  boats,  saw  abundance  of  pigeons, 
but  with  the  exception  of  these,  no  other  kind  of  game ; 
the  only  animal  observed  beside  these  was  the  rattlesnake, 
(Crotalus  horridus.)  of  which  they  killed  four  or  five. 

The  land  party,  although  provided  with  an  excellent 
hunter,  killed  but  a  few  pigeons ;  some  of  them  saw  a  large 
herd  of  Elks.  Game  will  be  judged  to  be  very  scarce 
where  two  parties  travelling  by  land  and  by  water  can  kill 
but  two  or  three  dozen  of  birds  upon  a  distance  of  upwards 
of  two  hundred  miles. 

The  river  abounds  in  turtles,  (Testudo  [Trionyx]  ferox, 
Linn.,  and  T.  [Emys]  geographica,  Lesueur,*)  at  least 
judging  from  the  great  number  of  eggs  which  our  men 
picked  up  in  the  sand ;  it  appears  that  the  animal  deposits 
her  eggs  on  the  sand  islands,  which  abound  in  the  river, 
generally  at  a  distance  from  the  water,  she  covers  them  up 
with  sand,  and  abandons  them  ;  the  heat  of  the  sun  sup- 
plies the  place  of  incubation.  The  men  collected  them  in 
great  number,  and  appeared  to  be  very  fond  of  them. 

*  Journal  Acad,  of  Nat.  SckncvS,  vol.  I.  p.  86.  pi.  5. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


9,93 


The  mineralogical  observations  were  unfortunately  pre- 
vented by  the  circumstances  under  which  the  party  tra- 
velled. Hastening  towards  the  St.  Peter,  and  apprehen- 
sive lest  a  dela^  on  shore  mighl  usprive  them  of  the  ad- 
vantage of  a  fair  wind,  they  landec)  near  the  bluffs  but  sel- 
dom, and  never  for  any  length  of  vime.  Their  usual  stop- 
pages were  on  sandbars,  and  even  there  but  for  a  short 
time ;  they  frequently  travelled  late  at  night,  and  some- 
times even  tho  whole  ni^ht.  Under  these  circumstances, 
the  only  feature  that  could  be  observed,  was  that  the  coun- 
try was  formed  of  limestone  and  sandstone;  t'at  the  for- 
mer was,  in  one  instance  at  least,  oolitic  and  pulverulent ; 
that  the  sandstone  was  white,  loosely  aggregated,  and  ho- 
rizontally stratified,  but  its  connexion  with  the  limestone 
was  never  determined  ;  the  sandstone  prevails  above  Lake 
Pepin,  the  limestone  below  it ;  and  probably  to  this  we 
may  attribute  the  difference  observed  in  the  characters  of 
the  stream  and  its  banks  after  we  had  passed  the  lake.  The 
sand  appears  to  be  chiefly  formed  by  the  detritus  of  the 
sandstone ;  it  not  unfrequently  contains  cornelians,  agates, 
jaspers,  &c.  which  present  characters  analogous  to  those 
observed  on  the  Rliine  below  Oberstein,  aii»l  in  Scotland, 
where  they  are  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Scotch  peb- 
bles. They  bear  evident  marks  of  having  been  washed 
away  from  a  secondary  trap  formation.  We  shall  have 
occasion  to  observe,  at  a  future  period,  that  a  formation 
of  this  kind  was  traversed  by  the  expedition.  In  one  or 
two  instances,  while  examining  the  sand  with  the  micro- 
scope, a  white  transparent  topaz  was  extracted  from  it ;  it 
is  probable  that  had  more  time  been  taken,  on  land,  many 
would  have  been  found.  Although  much  rubbed,  ."^"ll  the 
form  of  the  prism  of  the  topaz,  with  its  dihedral  summit, 
could  be  well  made  out 


294 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


t'T  ^i 


The  party  in  the  boat  experienced  much  fatigue,  during 
this  portion  of  the  journey,  from  the  want  of  rest  at  night, 
and  the  cramped  situation  in  which  they  re  in  the  boat, 
but  a  stay  of  a  few  days  at  Fort  St.  Au  'y  refreshed 
them,  and  prepared  them  to  resume  thei  r  journey. 

Fort  St.  Anthony  is  situated  on  the  high  bluff  which 
rises  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  left  of 
the  St.  Peter,  at  the  confluence  of  the  two  streams.  Al- 
though this  spot  had  been  visited  and  described  by  Pike 
in  1806,  and  subsequently  by  Major  Long  in  1817,  who 
in  his  report  to  the  War  Department  recommended  the 
establishment  of  a  permanent  post  at  this  place,  it  was  not 
until  the  summer  of  1819,  that  military  works  were  com- 
menced here.  Col.  Leavenworth,  with  part  of  the  fifth 
regiment,  arrived  here  in  August,  1819,  and  all  that  has 
been  done  here  was  subsequent  to  this  period.  The  fort  is  in 
the  form  of  a  hexagon,  surrounded  by  a  stone  wall ;  it  stands 
on  an  elevated  position  which  commands  both  rivers.  The 
height  of  the  half-moon  battery  which  fronts  the  river  is 
one  hundred  and  five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. It  is  not,  however,  secure  from  attacks  from  all 
quarters,  as  a  position  within  ordinary  cannon  shot  of  it 
rises  to  a  greater  elevation  ;  but  as  long  as  we  have  to  op- 
pose a  savage  foe  alone,  no  danger  can  be  apprehended 
from  this.  If  a  resistance  against  a  civilized  enemy  pro- 
vided with  artillery,  were  required,  possession  might  be 
taken  of  the  jther  position,  which  would  command  the 
country  to  a  considerable  distance,  and  protect  the  present 
fort,  which  is  in  the  best  situation  for  a  control  of  the  two 
rivers. 

The  garrison  consists  of  five  companies  of  the  5th  infan- 
try, under  the  command  of  Col.  Snelling.  The  great  acti- 
vity, which  has  been  displayed  by  the  officers  and  men. 


80UHCE   OF   ST.   PETER's   RIVER. 


295 


has  already  imparted  to  this  place,  situated  as  it  is  at  an 
immense  distance  from  civilization,  many  of  the  comforts 
of  life.  The  quarters  are  well  built,  and  comfortable. 
Those  of  the  commanding  ofBcer  are  even  elegant,  and 
suitable  for  the  principal  military  post  to  the  north-west. 
There  were,  at  the  time  we  visited  it,  about  two  hundred 
and  ten  acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  of  which  one  hun- 
dred were  in  wheat,  sixty  in  maize,  fifteen  in  oats,  fourteen 
in  potatoes,  and  twenty  in  gardens,  which  supply  the  table 
of  the  officers  and  men  with  an  abundant  supply  of  whole- 
some vegetables. 

On  the  6th  of  July  we  walked  to  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
which  are  situated  nine  miles,  (along  the  course  of  the  river, 
seven  by  land,)  above  the  fort.  The  first  glimpse  which 
we  caught  of  the  fall  was  productive  of  disappointment, 
because  it  yielded  but  a  partial  view,  but  this  was  amply 
redeemed  by  the  prospect  which  we  obtained  of  it  when 
the  whole  fall  opened  itself  before  us.  We  then  discovered 
that  nothing  could  be  more  picturesque  than  this  cascade. 
We  had  been  told  that  it  appeared  like  a  mere  mill  dam, 
and  we  were  apprehensive  lest  a  fall  of  sixteen  feet  would 
lose  all  its  beauty  when  extended  upon  a  breadth  of  seve- 
ral hundred  yards :  but  we  soon  observed  that  this  was  by 
no  means  the  case.  The  irregular  outline  of  the  fall,  by 
dividing  its  breadth,  gives  it  a  more  impressive  character. 
An  island,  stretching  in  the  river  both  above  and  below  the 
fall,  separates  it  into  two  unequal  parts,  the  eastern  being 
two  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and  the  western  three 
hundred  and  ten.  The  island  itself  is  about  one  hunlred 
yards  wide.  From  the  nature  of  the  rock,  which  breaks 
into  angular  and  apparently  rhomboidal  fragments  of  a 
huge  size,  this  fall  is  subdivided  into  small  cascades,  which 
adhere  to  each  other,  so  as  to  form  a  shee»  of  water,  unrent 


206 


XXPEDITION   TO   THi: 


1 


but  composed  of  an  alternation  of  retiring  and  salient 
angles,  and  presenting  a  great  variety  of  shapes  and  shades ; 
each  of  these  forms  in  itself  a  perfect  cascade,  but  when 
taken  together  in  one  comprehensive  view,  they  assume  a 
beauty  of  which  we  could  have  scarcely  deemed  them 
susceptible.  We  have  seen  many  falls,  but  few  which 
present  a  wilder  and  more  picturesque  aspect  than  those 
of  St.  Anthony.  The  vegetation  which  grows  around  them 
is  of  a  corresponding  character.  The  thick  growth  upon 
tha  island,  imparts  to  it  a  gloomy  aspect,  contrasting 
pleasingly  with  the  bright  surface  of  the  watery  sheet 
which  reflects  the  sun  in  many  differently-coloured  hues. 
The  force  of  the  current  above  the  fall  is  very  great,  but, 
as  we  were  told  that  it  could  be  forded,  we  determined  to 
attempt  to  cross  immediately  above  the  fall.  The  place  at 
which  we  forded  was  within  a  few  yards  of  the  edge  of  the 
rock,  and  as  we  passed  we  could  not  repress  a  feeling  of  ap- 
prehension at  the  danger  which  we  were  incurring.  The 
water  never,  it  is  tr^^e,  rose  above  two  feet  and  a  half,  but 
the  rock  upon  which  we  were  treading  was  very  smooth, 
and  the  force  of  the  current  such  that  we  were  frequently 
exposed  to  slip;  while  at  the  same  time  we  were  con- 
vinced that  if  we  made  but  a  single  false  step,  we  must  in- 
evitably perish,  as  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  regain 
a  foothold  had  it  once  been  lost  We  crossed  over  to  the 
island,  and  having  gone  round  it  to  the  eastern  part  of  the 
fall,  Messrs.  Say  and  Colhoun  forded  over  from  this  to 
the  left  bank  of  the  river ;  in  this  they  experienced  even 
greater  difficulty  than  before,  as  the  water  was  deeper  and 
its  current  more  impetuous.  Mr.  Keating  attempted  it, 
but  found  himself  unable  to  accomplish  it,  being  at  the 
time  considerably  debilitated  by  a  fever,  which  he  had  had 
for  the  two  or  three  preceding  days;  finding  himself 


SOURCC    UF    ST.    PETKr's   RIVER. 


297 


alone  upon  the  island,  and  being  apprehensive  that  his  com- 
panions would  not  return  in  that  direction,  but  would 
cross  below  the  fall,  he  determined  to  regain  the  western 
bank;  in  this  he  met  with  great  difficulty.  Twice  he  at- 
tempted to  cross,  but  before  he  had  reached  the  middle  of 
the  stream,  finding  his  strength  failing,  he  was  compelled 
to  return  to  the  island ;  at  last,  the  recollection  that  he 
would  not  recover  it  by  a  longer  stay  there,  and  the  con- 
viction that  the  waters  of  the  stream  would  probably  con- 
tinue to  roll  on  undiminished  to  the  end  of  time,  induced 
him  to  make  a  final  effort  to  reach  the  shore,  in  which  he 
succeeded.  Some  time  after,  Messrs.  Say  and  Colhoun 
were  seen  returning  with  difficulty,  and  one  of  the  stoutest 
of  the  soldiers  went  over  and  assisted  them;  their  strength 
was  nearly  exhausted  at  the  time  they  reached  the  bank. 
However  fatiguing  this  excursion  may  have  been,  it  wag 
very  gratifying,  as  it  afforded  them  a  fine  view  of  the  fall 
under  all  its  aspects.  None  of  the  party  had  seen  a  water- 
fall for  some  time  past,  and  to  this  may  probably  be  attri- 
buted the  great  pleasure  which  they  derived  from  it ;  for 
it  bears  no  comparison  to  many  which  they  subsequently 
met  with.  Concerning  the  height  of  the  fall  and  breadth 
of  the  river  at  this  place,  much  incorrect  information  ha^ 
been  published.  Hennepin,  who  was  the  first  European 
that  visited  it,  states  it  to  be  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high.  It 
was  this  traveller  that  gave  it  the  name  which  it  now 
bears,  in  honour  of  St.  Anthony  of  Padua,  whom  he  had 
taken  for  the  protector  of  his  discovery.  He  says  of  it, 
that  it "  indeed  of  itself  is  terrible,  and  hath  something 
very  astonishing.".  This  height  is,  by  Carver,  reduced  to 
about  thirty  feet;  his  strictures  upon  Hennepin,  whom  he 
taxes  with  exaggeration,  might  with  great  propriety  be  re- 
torted upon  him,  and  we  feel  strongly  inclined  to  say  of 
Vol.  I.  '       38 


1^98 


2XPEDIT10N   TO    THE 


I 


lit'';- 


^i  / 


M 


him,  as  he  said  of  his  predecessor,  "  the  good  father,  I  fear, 
too  often  had  no  other  foundation  for  his  ac  counts  than  report, 
or  at  least  a  slight  inspection."   Pike,  who  is  more  correct 
than  any  traveller  whose  steps  we  have  followed,  states  the 
perpendicular  fall  at  sixteen  and  a  half  feet  ;*  Major  Long 
measured  it  in  1817  with  a  plumb  line,  from  the  table 
rock  from  which  the  water  was  falling,  and  found  it  to  be 
the  same.    Mr.  Colhoun  measured  it  while  we  were  there, 
with  a  rough  water  level,  and  made  it  about  fifteen  feet.  The 
difference  of  a  foot  is  trifling,  and  depends  upon  the  place 
where  the  measurement  was  made ;  but  we  cannot  account 
for  the  statement,  made  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  that  the  river 
has  a  perpendicular  pitch  of  forty  feet,  and  this  as  late  as 
fourteen  years  after  Pike's  measurement.     The  same  au- 
thor states  the  breadth  of  the  river,  near  the  brink  of  the 
fall,  to  be  two  hundred  and  twenty-seven  yards,  while 
Pike  found  it  to  be  six  hundred  and  twenty-seven  yards, 
which  agrees  tolerably  well  with  a  measurement  made  on 
the  ice.     Messrs.  Say  and  Colhoun  obtained  an  approxi- 
mate admeasurement  of  five  hundred  and  ninety-four  yards ; 
this  resulted  from  a  trigonometrical  calculation,  the  angles 
having  been  measured  with  a  compass  that  was  small  and 
not  nicely  graduated,  and  the  base  line  having  been  ob- 
tained under  unfavourable  circumstances.     Below  the  fall, 
the  river  contracts  to  about  two  hundred  yards ;  there  is  a 
considerable  rapid  both  above  and  below ;  a  portage  of  two 
hundred  and  sixty  poles  in  length  is  usually  made  here; 
the  whole  fall,  or  difference  of  level  between  the  place  of 
disembarking  and  reloading,  is  stated  by  Pike  to  be  fifty- 
eight  feet,  which  is  probably  very  near  the  truth;  the 
whole  fall  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  which  extend  several 
miles  down  the  river,  may  be  estimated  as  not  far  short  of 
one  hundred  feet. 

*  Pike,  ut  supra,  App.  to  Part  1,  p.  51. 


SOURCE   OP   ST.    PETER'S   RIVER. 


299 


s :  there  is  a 


Two  mills  have  been  erected  for  the  use  of  the  garrison, 
and  a  sergeant's  guard  is  kept  here  at  all  times.  On  our  re- 
turn from  the  island  we  recruited  our  strength  by  a  copious 
and  palatable  meal,  prepared  for  us  by  the  old  sergeant ; 
whether  from  the  exercise  of  the  day,  or  from  its  intrinsic 
merit,  we  know  not,  but  the  black  bass,  (Chicla  oenea,  Le- 
sueur,*)  of  which  we  partook,  appeared  to  us  excellent 

The  vegetation  consists  of  oak,  hickory,  walnut,  pine, 
birch,  linden,  cotton-wood,  &c. 

This  beautiful  spot  in  the  Mississippi  is  not  without  a 
tale  to  hallow  its  scenery,  and  heighten  the  interest  which, 
of  itself,  it  is  calculated  to  produce.  To  Wazekota,  the 
old  Indian  whom  we  saw  at  Shakea's,  we  are  indebted  for 
the  narration  of  the  following  transaction,  to  which  his  mo- 
ther was  an  eye-witness.  An  Indian  of  the  Dacota  nation 
had  united  himself  early  in  life  to  a  youthful  female,  whose 
name  was  Ampato  Sapa,  which  signifies  the  dark  day  ;  with 
her  he  lived  happily  for  several  years,  apparently  en- 
joying every  comfort  which  the  savage  life  can  afford. 
Their  union  had  been  blessed  with  two  children,  on  whom 
both  parents  doated  with  that  depth  of  feeling  which  is 
unknown  to  such  as  have  other  treasures  besides  those 
that  spring  from  nature.  The  man  had  acquired  a  repu- 
tation as  a  hunter,  which  drew  round  him  many  families, 
who  were  happy  to  place  themselves  under  his  protection 
and  avail  themselves  of  such  part  of  his  chase  as  he  needed 
not  for  the  maintenance  of  his  family.  Desirous  of  strength- 
ening their  interest  with  him,  some  of  them  invited  him 
to  form  a  connexion  with  their  family  observing,  at  the 
same  time,  that  a  man  of  his  talent  and  importance  requir- 
ed more  than  one  woman  to  wait  upon  the  numerous 
guests  whom  his  reputation  would  induce  to  visit  his 
lodge.  They  assured  him  that  he  would  soon  be  acknow- 
*  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sci.  vol.  11.  p.  214,  plate. 


300 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


tt 


^  =  1  I 


ledged  as  a  chief,  and  that,  in  this  case,  a  second  wife  was 
indispensable.    Fired  with  the  ambition  of  obtaining  high 
honours,  he  resolved  to  increase  his  importance  by  an 
union  with  the  daughter  of  an  influential  man  of  his  tribe. 
He  had  accordingly  taken  a  second  wife  without  having 
ever  mentioned  the  subject  to  his  former  companion ;  be- 
ing desirous  to  introduce  his  bride  into  his  lodge  in  the 
manner  which  should  be  least  offensive  to  the  mother  of 
his  children,  for  whom  he  still  retained  much  regard,  he 
introduced  the  subject  in  these  words :  "  You  know,"  said 
he,  "  that  I  can  love  no  woman  so  fondly  as  I  doat  upon 
you.  With  regret,  have  I  seen  you  of  late  subjected  to  toils, 
which  must  be  oppressive  to  you,  and  from  which  I  would 
gladly  relieve  you,  yet  I  know  no  other  way  of  doing 
so,  than  by  associating  to  you  in  the  household  duties 
one,  who  shall  relieve  you  from  the  trouble  of  entertaiji- 
ing  the  numerous  guests,  whom  my  growing  importance 
in  the  nation  collects  around  me.     I  have  therefore  resolv- 
ed upon  taking  another  wife,  but  she  shall  always  be  sub- 
ject to  your  control,  as  she  will  always  rank  in  my  affec- 
tions second  to  you."     With  the  utmost  anxiety,  and  the 
deepest  concern,  did  his  companion  listen  to  this  unexpect- 
ed proposal.     She  expostulated  in  the  kindest  terms,  en- 
treated him  with  all  the  arguments  which  undisguised 
love  and  the  purest  conjugal  affection  could  suggest.     She 
replied  to  all  the  objections  which  his  duplicity  led  him 
to  raise.     Desirous  of  winning  her  from  her  opposition, 
the  Indian  still  concealed   the  secret  of  his  union  with 
another,  while  she  redoubled  all  her  care  to  convince  him 
that  she  was  equal  to  the  task  imposed  upon  her.     When 
he  again  spoke  on  the  subject,  she  pleaded  all  the  endear- 
ments of  their  past  life ;  she  spoke  of  his  former  fondness 
for  her,  of  his  regard  for  her  happiness  and  that  of  their 
mutual  offsprings  she  bade  hi.n  beware  of  the  consequencQS 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


801 


of  this  fatal  purpose  of  his.     Finding  her  bent  upon  with- 
liolding  her  consent  to  his  plan,  he  informed  her  that  all 
opposition  on  her  part  was  unnecessary,  as  he  had  already 
selected  another  partner ;  and  that  if  she  could  not  see  his 
new  wife  as  a  friend,  she  must  receive  her  as  a  necessary 
incumbrance,  for  he  had  resolved  that  she  should  be  an 
inmate  in  his  house.     Distressed  at  this  information,  she 
watched  her  opportunity,  stole  away  from  the  cabin  with 
her  infants,  and  fled  to  a  distance  where  her  father  was. 
With  him  she  remained  until  a  party  of  Indians  with 
whom  he  lived  went  up  the  Mississippi  on  a  winter  hunt. 
In  the  spring  as  they  were  returning  with  their  canoes 
loaded  with  peltries,  they  encamped  near  the  falls.     In  the 
morning  as  they  left  it  she  lingered  near  the  spot,  tjien 
launched  her  light  canoe,  entered  into  it  with  her  children, 
and  paddled  down  the  stream  singing  her  death  song;  too 
late  did  her  friends  perceive  it ;  their  attempts  to  prevent 
her  from  proceeding  were  of  no  avail ;  she  was  heard  to 
sing  in  a  doleful  voice,  the  past  pleasures  which  she  had 
enjoyed,  while  she  was  the  undivided  object  of  her  hus- 
band's affection;  finally  her  voice  was  drowned  in  the 
sound  of  the  cataract ;  the  current  carried  down  her  frail 
bark  with  an  inconceivable  rapidity ;  it  came  to  the  edge 
of  the  precipice,  was  seen  for  a  moment  enveloped  with 
spray,  but  never  after  was  a  trace  of  the  canoe  or  its  pas- 
sengers seen.    Yet  it  is  stated  by  the  Indians  that  often  in 
the  morning  a  voice  has  been  heard  to  sing  a  doleful  ditty 
along  the  edge  of  the  fall,  and  that  it  dwells  ever  upon 
the  inconstancy  of  her  husband.     Nay,  some  assert  that 
her  spirit  has  been  seen  wandering  near  the  spot  with  her 
children  wrapped  to  her  bosom.     Such  are  the  tales  or 
traditions  which  the  Indians  treasure  up,  and  which  they 
relate  to  the  voyager,  forcing  a  tear  from  the  eyes  of  the 
most  relentless. 


908 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Geology  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Expedition  ascends  the 
St.  Peter.  Character  of  the  Country.  *drrival  at 
Lake  Travers. 


1 1 


**t  r 


THE  country  about  the  fort  contains  several  other  water 
falls,  which  are  represented  as  worthy  of  being  seen.  One 
of  them,  which  is  but  two  miles  and  a  half  from  the  garri- 
son, and  on  the  road  to  St  Anthony's,  is  very  interesting. 
It  is  known  by  the  name  of  Brown's  Fall,  and  is  remark- 
able for  the  soft  beauties  which  it  presents.  Essentially 
different  from  St.  Anthony's,  it  appears  as  if  all  its  native 
wildness  had  been  removed  by  the  hand  of  art  A  small, 
but  beautiful  stream,  about  five  yards  wide,  flows  gently 
until  it  reaches  the  verge  of  a  rock,  from  which  it  is  pre- 
cipitated to  a  depth  of  forty-three  feet,  presenting  a  beau- 
tiful parabolic  sheet,  which  drops  without  the  least  devia- 
tion from  the  regular  curve,  and  meets  with  no  interrup- 
tion from  neighbouring  rocks,  or  other  impediments,  until 
it  has  reached  it»  lower  level,  when  it  resumes  its  course 
without  any  other  difference,  than  that  produced  by  the 
white  foam  which  floats  upon  its  surface.  The  spray, 
which  this  cascade  emits,  is  very  considerable,  and  when 
the  rays  of  the  l  jn  shine  upon  it,  produces  a  beautiful  Ins ; 
upon  the  surrounding  vegetation  the  effect  of  this  spray  is 
distinct;  it  vivifies  all  the  plants,  imparts  to  them  an  in- 
tense green  colour,  and  gives  rise  to  a  stouter  growth  than 
is  observed  upon  the  surrounding  coun  jy.  On  the  neigh- 
bouring rock  the  effect  is  as  charac':eristic,  though  of  a 
destructive  nature;  the  spray  striking  against  the  rock, 
which  is  of  a  loose  structure,  has  undermined  it  in  a 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETSR's   RIVER. 


303 


curved  manner,  so  as  to  produce  an  excavation,  similar  in 
form  to  a  Saxon  arch,  between  the  surface  of  the  rock  and 
the  sheet  of  water ;  under  this  large  arch  we  passed  with  no 
other  inconvenience  than  that  which  arose  from  the  spray. 
There  is  nothing  sublime  or  awfully  impressive  in  this  cas- 
cade, but  it  has  every  feature  that  is  required  to  constitute 
beauty ;  it  is  such  a  fall  as  the  hand  of  opulence  daily  at- 
tempts to  produce  in  the  midst  of  those  gardens  upon 
which  treasures  have  been  lavished  for  the  purpose  of  imi- 
tating nature;  with  this  difference,  however,  that  these 
falls  possess  an  easy  grace  destitute  of  the  stiffness  which 
generally  distinguishes  the  works  of  man  from  those  of  na- 
ture. The  stream  that  exhibits  this  cascade  falls  into  the 
Mississippi  about  two  miles  above  the  fort ;  it  heads  in  a 
lake  situateJ  a  few  miles  above.  A  body  of  water,  which  is 
not  represented  upon  any  map  that  we  know  of,  has  been 
discovered  in  this  vicinity  within  a  few  years,  and  has  re- 
ceived the  name  of  Lake  Calhoun,  in  honour  of  the  Secre- 
tary at  War.  Its  dimensions  are  small.  Another  lake  of  a 
much  larger  size  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  about 
thirty  or  forty  miles  to  the  north-west  of  the  fort  Its  size, 
which  is  variously  stated,  is  by  some  supposed  to  be  equal 
to  that  of  Lake  Champlain,  which,  however,  from  the  na- 
ture of  the  country  and  the  knowledge  which  we  ha/e  of 
the  course  of  the  rivers,  appears  scarcely  possible. 

An  object,  which  had  appeared  to  us  worthy  of  inquiry 
long  before  we  visited  the  Indian  country,  was  to  ascer- 
tain whether  the  natives,  who  are  accurate  observers  of 
every  natural  occurrence,  had  any  tradition  or  recollection 
of  having  witnessed  the  fall  of  meteoric  stones.  Since  the 
fact  of  the  fall  of  these  heavy  bodies  from  the  atmosphere 
has  been  proved  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  most  sceptical, 
numerous  observations,  recorded  by  ancient  historians, 


S04 


KXPKDITION    TO    THE 


have  been  collected  to  prove  that  the  occurrence  is  much 
more  frequeat  than  one  would  at  first  be  led  to  expect  On 
being  informed  of  the  existence  of  a  painted  stone,  which 
was  held  in  great  veneration  by  the  Indians  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, we  entertained  a  hope  that  it  might  prove  of  this 
nature ;  we  experienced  therefore  no  slight  degree  of  dis- 
appointment in  finding  it  to  be  merely  a  boulder  of  sienite. 
We  have,  as  we  think,  in  our  intercourse  with  the  Indians, 
been  able  to  trace  an  indistinct  notion  on  the  subject  of  me- 
teorites. The  following  belief,  which  is  common  to  several 
nations,  but  which  principally  prevails  among  the  Sioux, 
appears  to  bear  upon  this  point  They  state  that  whenever 
a  tree  is  affected  by  lightning,  a  stone  of  a  black  or  brown 
colour  may  be  found  at  its  foot ;  it  is  said  to  be  very  heavy, 
and  to  have  been,  in  some  cases,  picked  up  while  hot; 
several  of  onr  guides  stated  that  they  had  seen  them,  and 
had  owned  some  of  them.  These  stones  are  held  in  some 
esteem,  as  being  uncommon,  but  no  supernatural  or  mys- 
terious property  is  attached  to  them.  We  think  it  proba- 
ble, from  the  respectable  sources  from  which  we  received 
this  report,  that  the  Indians  may  have  mistaken  the  phe- 
nomena which  attend  the  fall  of  these  aerolites  for  the 
effects  of  lightning,  and  having  in  a  few  instances  observ- 
ed these  stones  and  picked  them  up  while  still  hot,  been 
led  to  consider  them  as  the  usual  attendants  upon  lightning. 
There  seems  to  be  reason  to  believe  that  an  aerolite  fell 
a  few  years  since  at  St  Anthony ;  but  all  attempts  to  find 
it  proved  fruitless.*    We  have,  with  a  view  to  obtain  fur- 


*  Col.  Snelling  has  kindly  communicated  to  one  of  the  party,  the  cir- 
cumstances observed  on  that  occasion ;  and  we  have  his  permision  to 
insert  the  annexed  letter  on  the  subject. 

«  jF\>r/  St.  Anthmiy^  July  8th,  1823. 

"  SIRr-On  the  evening  of  Sept.  20th,  1822,  while  crossing  the  p»rade 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


305 


ther  information  on  the  subject,  examined  every  stone 
which  we  observed  as  having  been  held  in  veneration  by 
the  Indians,  but  in  no  case  have  we  br-jn  able  to  detect  any 
meteoric  appearance  in  them. 

of  this  post,  from  the  store  to  my  own  quarters,  I  was  startled  by  a 
brilliant  light  h.  the  atmosphere,  and  looking  up,  saw  a  meteor  passing 
in  a  direction  nearly  from  north-west  to  south-east,  and  as  well  as  I 
could  judge  at  an  angle  of  about  fifty  degrees  with  the  horizon ;  it  ap- 
peared of  uncommon  magnitude,  and  passed  so  near  me  that  I  distinct- 
ly heard  its  sound,  which  resembled  that  of  a  signal  rocket ;  in  its  de- 
scent my  vi'' w  of  it  was  intercepted  by  the  Commissary's  store,  but  I 
heard  it  strike  the  ground,  when  it  sounded  like  a  spent  shell,  though 
much  louder.  I  went  immediately  to  the  sentinel  at  the  comer  of  the 
store,  and  asked  him  if  he  had  seen  any  thing  extraordinary ;  he  re- 
plied that  a  large  ball  of  fire  had  passed  very  near  him  and  struck  in 
the  public  garden  which  borders  the  river  St.  Peter;  he  appeared 
much  agitated ;  after  requesting  him  to  mark  the  spot  where  it  fell,  I 
proceeded  to  the  other  sentinels,  whose  accounts,  as  far  as  their  sta- 
tions allowed  them  to  judge,  agreed  with  his.  The  next  morning  I 
went  early  to  the  spot  where  the  meteoric  atone  was  supposed  to  have 
fallen,  but  could  not  find  it ;  the  ground  is  alluvial  and  much  broken 
into  holes  or  hollows.  I  continued  my  search  until  the  breakfast  hour; 
but  my  ordinary  avocations  called  off  my  attention,  and  I  did  not  look 
for  it  again ;  which  I  have  since  regretted,  as  I  think  it  might  have 
been  found  by  going  to  a  greater  depth  in  search  of  it.  The  evening 
was  uncommonly  fine,  and  the  concurring  testimony  of  all  the  persons 
who  saw  it,  with  my  own  observation,  I  presume,  will  be  sufScient  evi- 
dence that  it  was  no  illusion. 

*•  I  have  communicated  this  incident,  as  the  question  whether  me- 
teoric stones  do  or  do  not  fall  from  the  atmosphere  has  recently  ex- 
cited much  interest,  and  it  may  be  deemed  in  some  measure  of  im-> 
portance  in  support  of  the  afRrmative  proposition. 

"  Respectfully, 

"  I  am,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

"  J.  SNELLING, 

"  Wm.  H.  Keating,  Esq.  ^  Col.  U.  S.  ^rmy. 

"Extract  from  Dr.  Purcell's  meteorological  register,  Sept.  20, 1822. 
Thermometer  at  7  A.  M.  54° ;  at  2  P.  M.  70° ;  at  9  P.  M.  56°.  Wind 
N.  W.  weather  clear — light  fresh  wind." 

Vol.  I.  39 


306 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


M^i\  '•■  v! 


't^ 


fill 


A  singular  appearance  was  observed  in  the  heavens,  be- 
tween three  and  four  o'clock  on  *he  morning  of  the  9th  of 
July.  The  night  had  been  stormy,  much  rain  had  fallen, 
and  frequent  flashes  of  lightning  had  been  observed,  but 
at  that  time  the  heavens  presented  to  the  north  a  vivid 
sheet  of  light  of  a  yellowish  hue,  and  brighter  than  the 
most  intense  liglitning  we  recollect  witnessing.  Although 
the  light  was  constant,  it  was  not  a  steady  one ;  frequent 
coruscations  were  observed,  they  were  rather  of  the  na- 
ture of  the  beams,  than  of  the  arches  df;scribed  by  Captain 
Franklin.*  The  light  which  it  produced  was  such,  that  the 
reflection  of  it  from  the  parade  ground  awoke  us,  though 
our  windows  opened  to  the  south-west.  The  effect  was  the 
same  as  if  the  whole  row  of  barracks  had  been  on  fire. 
This  light  continued  without  interruption  for  about  flfteea 
minutes ;  during  the  first  five  minutes,  the  rain  fell  with 
an  impetuosity  which  we  do  not  recollect  to  have  ever  seen 
surpassed.  It  might  truly  be  said  to  fall  in  torrents ;  loud 
peals  of  thunder  were  occasionally  heard.  After  the  phe- 
nomena had  continued  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  the  light 
Tanished,  and  sunk  into  the  dark  gray  usually  observable 
of  a  misty  morning  before  sunrise.  The  atmosphere  ap- 
peared to  be  very  highly  charged  with  electric  fluid,  but 
we  were  unfortunately  not  prepared  to  observe  the  influ- 
ence of  this  Aurora  upon  the  magnet,  &c.  The  heat  had 
been  great  the  day  before ;  the  wind  was  high  all  night 
and  from  the  south-south-west. 

The  bluff  upon  which  the  fort  is  built,  offers  a  good  op- 
portunity of  observing  the  geological  structure  of  the  coun- 
try. It  consists  of  several  strata,  all  disposed  in  parallel 
and  horizontal  superposition.  On  the  surface  of  theground^ 

*  Narrative  of  a  journey  to  the  Polar  Sea,  bjr  John  Franklini  Captain 
It.  N.  London,  1823. 


SOURCS   OF   ST.   FETEB'S  RIVEB. 


307 


i)Iocks  of  limestone  are  found,  which  appear  to  be  the  re- 
mains of  a  stratum  that  has  in  great  measure  disappeared ; 
these  are  in  most  cases  of  a  compact  and  earthy  texture, 
destitute  of  any  organic  remains,  exhibiting  occasional 
specks  of  a  crystalline  nature,  which  are  observed  to  be 
calcareous,  as,  not>yithstanding  their  small  volume,  they 
present  a  distinct  rhombohedral  cleavage.  The  first  stra- 
tum which  is  observed  is  about  eight  feet  thick,  it  is  form- 
ed of  limestone,  presenting  a  very  distinct  slaty  structure. 
The  texture  of  the  rock  is  compact,  its  fi'acture  splintery 
and  uneven ;  organic  remains  abound  in  it  These  are,  as 
far  as  we  saw,  exclusively  Producti,  they  lie  in  the  rock 
as  thick  as  possible ;  a  small  vacant  space  is  generally  ob- 
served between  the  inner  and  the  outer  casts  of  the  sheU. 
This  is  however  generally  filled  up  with  a  crystallization 
of  calcareous  spar;  the  form  of  the  crystals  cannot  be  made 
out  on  account  of  their  extreme  tenuity.  The  colour  of 
this  limestone,  as  well  as  of  the  loose  blocks  found  upon 
it,  is  a  light  grayish-yellow.  This  strfitum  rests  upon  ano- 
ther calcareous  bed,  which  differs  from  the  preceding,  in 
the  total  absence  of  organic  remains,  and  in  its  colour, 
which  is  of  a  light  blue.  Its  structure  is  more  compact,  so 
is  its  fracture ;  its  horizontal  stratification  is  distinct,  but 
the  stratum  being  thicker,  it  is  more  susceptible  of  being 
used  in  building.  It  produces,  in  fact,  an  excellent  stone, 
which  admits  of  being  hewn,  and  which  is  the  chief  ma- 
terial used  in  the  construction  of  the  fort;  this  bed  is  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  feet  thick.  When  examined  with  the 
microscope,  the  rock  presents  very  general  signs  of  crys- 
tallization, its  texture  becomes  subsaccaroidal,  and  veins 
of  calcspar,  of  an  inconsiderable  thicknessy^raverse  it  in 
every  direction.  There  are  also  cavities  in  which  crystals 
i/i  carbonate  of  lime,  (the  cuhcUde? of  Hauy,)  are  distinctly 


308 


EXPEDITION   TO   THJS 


seen.  In  this  bed  the  workmen  state  that  they  find  sub- 
stances resembling  their  catfish,  (Silurus,  Linn.)  and 
which  they  consider  as  petrifactions  of  the  same ;  we  saw 
nothing  of  the  kind,  neither  could  they  discover  any  at 
the  time  we  were  there.  We  at  first,  however,  thought 
they  had  probably  observed  icthyolites,  but  a  subsequent 
and  more  minute  description  of  the  objects  observed  by 
the  workmen,  satisfied  both  the  naturalists,  that  they  were 
probably  not  organic  remains,  but  mere  accidents  of  frac- 
ture, or  lust  naturae.  Independent  of  the  building  stone 
which  it  yields,  this  bed  is  likewise  valuable,  as  producing 
the  best  lime  of  any  found  in  the  vicinity.  Immediately 
under  this  bed  of  limestone,  in  parallel  stratification,  we 
observed  the  sandstone  which  constitutes  the  principal 
mass  of  the  bluff,  being  about  sixty  feet  in  thickness.  It  is 
a  very  friable  stone,  and  in  some  cases  the  grains,  of  which 
it  is  formed,  are  so  loosely  united,  that  it  appears  almost 
like  sand.  Every  fragment,  if  examined  with  care,  seems 
to  be  a  regular  crystal,  and  we  incline  much  to  the  opinion 
that  this  sandstone  must  have  been  formed  by  a  chemical 
precipitation,  and  not  by  mere  mechanical  deposition. 
The  process  o»  its  formation  may  have  been  a  very  rapid 
one,  such  as  is  obtained  in  the  manufacture  of  fine  salt, 
And  to  this  may  1:3  attributed  the  circumstance  of  its  loose 
texture.  The  grain  is  very  fine ;  its  colour  is  white,  some- 
times a  little  yellowish,  in  which  case,  it  resembles  in  tex- 
ture, colour,  &c.  the  finer  varieties  of  Muscovado  sugar. 
The  loose  texture  of  the  rock  is  probably  the  cause  of  its 
presenting  but  few  indications  of  stratification.  The  rock 
'  which  we  have  just  described,  rests  upon  a  slaty  limestone, 
which  has  a  striped  aspect ;  the  stripes  or  zones  are  curved. 
This  limestone  appears  to  be  very  argillaceous,  and  is  a 
little  softer  than  the  preceding;  its   structure  is  quite 


SOURCE    0/   ST.    PETEH*S    RIVER. 


SOS 


earthy;  it  effervesces  strongly  in  nitric  acid;  its  colour  is  a 
light  yellow.  The  thickness  of  this  bed  is  about  ten  feet 
Below  this  another  stratum  of  limestone  is  found,  which  im* 
beds  small  black  pebbles  of  quartz,  and  assumes,  therefore, 
in  a  slight  degree,  the  characters  of  a  pudding  stone  or 
conglomerate.  Its  grain  is  more  crystalline  than  that  of 
the  preceding  stratum.  It  is  filled  with  small  cavities,  pro- 
bably the  result  of  a  contraction  during  the  consolidation 
of  the  mass.  Its  colour  varies  from  a  bluish  to  a  yellowish- 
gray.  This  stratum  is  about  seven  feet  thick.  It  rises  but 
four  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water,  and  the  only  rock 
visible  under  it,  is  another  variety  of  limestone  which  dif- 
fers from  the  preceding,  inasmuch  as  its  grain  is  much 
finer  and  its  texture  more  earthy.  It  is  only  visible  for 
four  feet ;  the  bed  of  the  river  appears  to  be  excavated, 
near  the  fort,  in  this  stratum  of  limestone.  Neither  of 
these  limestone  formations  under  the  sandstone  contain  any 
traces  of  organic  remains.  If  we  consider  the  three  infe- 
rior beds  of  limestone,  as  being  modifications  of  the  same 
formation,  as  we  doubtless  ought  to  do,  then  wc  shall  find 
this  bluff  to  be  composed  of  three  different  formations ;  a 
superior  one  of  limestone,  with  abimdant  impressions  of 
shells  in  one  of  its  beds;  an  intermediate  one  of  sandstone; 
and  an  inferior  calcareous  formation,  without  any  organic 
remains.  The  latter  certainly  bears  some  resemblance  to 
the  limestone  found  on  the  Wassemon,  though  we  are  un- 
willing to  pronounce  upon  their  identity. 

The  river  runs  upon  a  bed  of  sandy  alluvion,  resulting 
from  the  destruction  of  the  bluffs,  but  in  many  places  the 
rock  is  laid  bare.  These  observations  upon  the  geology  of 
the  bluff  upon  which  the  fort  is  erected,  correspond  with 
those  made  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  with  this  excep- 
tion, that  at  the  latter  place  our  observations  are  limited 


•to 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


to  the  three  superior  strata,  viz.  the  slaty  limestone  withor*- 
ganic  remains,  the  blue  limestone  destitute  of  these,  and  the 
sandstone  with  a  loose  texture.  The  falls  are  occasioned  by 
the  fissures  which  occur  in  the  superior  limestone,  and  which 
allow  the  water  to  penetrate  through  this  bed  to  the  sand- 
stone, which,  being  of  a  loose  texture,  is  soon  washed 
away ;  in  this  manner  thick  plates  of  limestone  are  left 
unsupported,  and  soon  fall  by  their  own  gravity.  Thiy 
process  is  constantly  causing  the  fall  to  recede  towards  its 
source.  What  time  has  been  required,  what  lapse  of  cen- 
turies has  been  consumed,  in  bringing  the  falb  to  theii 
present  situation,  it  is  not  in  the  power  of  man  to  decide ; 
but  we  may  well  see  that  it  must  have  been  immense.  The 
difference  of  level  between  the  head  of  the  fall,  and  the 
level  of  the  river  at  the  fort,  being,  as  we  have  stated,  es- 
timated at  about  one  hundred  feet,  and  the  strata  running 
in  a  horizontal  position,  we  can  readily  account  for  the. 
additional  strata  observed  under  the  sandstone  at  the  fort, 
and  which  are  concealed  at  the  falls. 

It  would  remain  for  us,  in  order  to  complete  this  view 
of  the  geology  of  the  falls,  to  inquire  whether  the  lime* 
stone,  observed  at  the  falls,  corresponds  with  that  superior 
to  the  sandstone  south  of  the  Wisconsan,  and  if  that,  found 
near  the  level  of  the  river  at  the  fort,  be  analogous  to  that 
observed  under  the  sandstone,  between  the  "Wisconsan  and 
Wassemon.  We  shall  not  affect  a  degree  of  certainty 
which  we  do  not  possess,  but  we  may  be  permitted  to  ad- 
vance an  opinion  that  the  sandstone  is  probably  of  analo- 
gous formation,  and  that,  therefore,  the  strata  of  limestone, 
which  we  found  at  the  falls,  correspond  with  that  stratum 
of  whose  existence  at  a  former  period,  between  the  Was- 
semon and  the  Wisconsan,  we  think  we  have  evident 
proofs.    We  have  in  our  possession,  specimens  taken  in 


SOURCB  or  ST.  petsr's  rivek. 


311 


both  places,  filled  with  apparently  the  same  organic  re- 
mains, and  exhibiting  characters  in  the  rock  which  cor- 
respond as  well  as  could  be  expected  from  pieces,  collect- 
ed at  three  hundred  miles  distance  from  each  other.  We 
must  regret  that  the  circumstances  under  which  we  as- 
cended the  Mississippi  have  not  enabled  us  to  offer  a  more 
conclusive  opinion  upon  this  point,  or  upon  the  identity  or 
difference  between  the  limestone  inferior  to  the  sandstone 
at  the  fort,  and  that  observed  previous  to  our  arrival  at 
Prairie  du  Chien. 

To  one  fond  of  the  pleasures  of  hunting  and  fishing,  a 
residence  at  Fort  St  Anthony  would  offer  an  opportunity 
of  enjoying  these  occupations.  Catfish  has  b^n  caught  at 
the  falls  weighing  one  hundred  and  forty-two  pounds. 
Among  the  birds,  observed  by  Mr.  Say,  were  the  Wood- 
cock,* the  House  Wren,t  the  Flecker,:!:  the  Hairy  Wood- 
pecker,§  the  Towhee  bunting,  &c.  &c. 

The  soldiers,  that  had  accompanied  us  from  Fort  Craw- 
ford, having  proved  unequal  to  the  fatigues  of  the  journey, 
and  the  term  of  enlistment  of  some  of  them  having  almost 
•xpired,  Col.  Snelling  ordered  them  back  to  their  garrison, 
and  furnished  us  with  a  guard  consisting  of  a  sergeant,  two 
corporals,  and  eighteen  soldiers,  selected  from  his  com- 
mand. Lieut  Scott  was  appointed  to  conduct  the  detach- 
ment to  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  return  with  all  convenient 
speed,  and  Lieut.  St.  Clair  Denny,  of  the  5th  Infantry,  re- 
ceived the  command  of  the  new  guard,  until  Mr.  Scott 
should  overtake  the  expedition ;  after  which  he  had  the 
option  of  continuing  with  the  party,  or  returning  to  Fort 
St  Anthony. 


*  Scolopax  minor,  Gmelin. 
^  Picus  auratus,  Linn. 


t  Certhia  famtliari%  Linn.. 
§  Picus  villosus,  Linn. 


312 


SXPEDITION  TO  THE 


iir 


,ail 


^kii' 


";i 


if^ 


Provided  with  this  new  and  more  efficient  escort,  the 
party  left  Fort  St.  Anthony  late  in  ♦he  afternoon  of  the 
9th  of  July.  They  had  exchanged  their  interpreter  for 
another,  Joseph  Renville,  a  half-breed  of  the  Dacota  na- 
tion, who  undertook  to  act  both  as  interpreter  and  guide. 
The  very  able  manner  in  which  he  performed  these  du- 
ties; the  valuable  infoi^ation  which  he  communicated 
concerning  this  nation  of .  Indians,  and  the  universal  sa- 
tisfaction which  he  gave  to  every  member  of  the  expe- 
dition, requires  that  something  should  be  stated  of  this 
man,  whose  influence  among  the  Sioux  appears  to  -be  very 
great. 

Joseph  Renville  was  the  son  of  a  French  trader  on  the 
Mississippi,  probably  the  same  mentioned  by  Pike.  His 
mother  being  a  Sioux  resident  at  the  village  of  the  Petit 
Corbeau,  he  was  brought  up  among  the  Indians,  and  de- 
prived of  all  education  excepting  such  as  his  powerful 
mind  enabled  him  to  acquire,  during  his  intercourse  with 
white  traders;  it  was,,  therefore,  rather  an  education  of 
obsei-vation  than  of  study.  We  have  met  with  few  men 
that"  appeared  to  us  to  be  gifted  with  a  more  inquiring  and 
discerning  mind;-^  or  with  more  force  and  penetration  than 
Renville.  His  mother  being  connected  with  an  influential 
family  among  the  Indians,  he  was  early  brought  into  notice 
by  them;  his  objeqt  appears  to  have  beeb,  from  his  first  en- 
trance upon  the  pursuits  of  life,  to  acquire  an  ascendancy 
over  his  countrymen.  This,  he  knew,  could  hot  be  obtain- 
ed except  by  the  most  daring  and  persevering  course  of 
conduct;  and,  accordingly,  we  have  it  from  respectable 
authority,  that  he  never  desisted  from  any  of  his  preten- 
sions, and  that  whatever  he  had  undertaken,  he  never  fail- 
ed to  achieve.  As  a  trader,  he  was  considered  active,  in- 
telligent, and  faithful  to  his  employers  ;  his  usefulness  de- 
pending, in  a  great  measure,  upon  the  influence  which  ho 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


315 


possessed  over  the  Indians.  When,  at  the  commencement 
of  the  late  war,  the  British  government  determined  to  use 
the  Indians  as  auxiliaries,  Col.  Dickson,  to  whom  the 
chief  direction  of  this  force  had  been  entrusted,  selected 
Renville  as  the  man  upon  whom  he  could  place  most 
dependence;  to  him,  therefore,  was  the  command  of  the 
Sioux  given,  with  the  rank,  pay,  and  emoluments  of  a  cap- 
tain in  the  British  army.  In  this  new  situation  he  distin- 
guished himself  not  only  as  an  active,  but  as  a  humane  offi- 
cer; to  him  the  Americans  are,  we  doubt  not,  indebted  for 
the  comparatively  few  injuries  done  by  the  Sioux;  he  re- 
pressed their  depredations,  and  prevented  them  from  shar- 
ing in  those  bloody  and  disgusting  transactions  which  dis- 
graced the  conduct  of  the  Chippewas,  the  Potayvatomis, 
Miamis,  Ottowas,  &c. 

After  the  war,  he  retired  to  the  British  provinces,  re- 
taining the  half-pay  of  a  captain  in  the  line ;  he  then  en- 
tered the  service  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  for 
whom  he  traded  several  years  at  the  head  of  Red  river. 
Being  dissatisfied  with  their  employ,  he  left  them,  and 
finding  it  impossible  to  retain  his  pension  as  a  British  offi- 
cer, unless  he  continued  to  reside  in  the  British  territory, 
he  voluntarily  relinquislied  it,  and  returned  to  his  old 
trading  post  towards  the  sources  of  Red  river.  This  be- 
ing within  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  he,  with  seve- 
ral of  the  former  agents  and  clerks  of  the  British  traders, 
established  a  new  company  under  the  name  of  the  Colum-  . 
bia  Fur  Company.  Of  this  Renville  may  be  considered  as 
being  the  principal  prop,  as  it  is  to  his  extensive  acquaint-  , 
ance  with  the  Indian  character  that  they  are  indebted  for 
the  success  which  has  hitherto  attended  their  efforts. 

Renville's  character  has  not   been  exempt  from    the 
obloquy  which  always  attends  those  who  take  decisive  and 

Vol.  I.  40* 


314 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


independent  measures.  It  has  been  thought  that,  having 
been  born  on  the  Mississippi,  and  therefore  within  the  ac- 
tual limits  of  the  United  States,  he  ought  not  to  have  join- 
ed the  British  during  the  late  war.  In  extenuation,  it  ought 
to  be  remembered,  that  he,  was  oii  Canadian  origin ;  that  all 
the  French  traders  have  uniformly  considered  themselves 
as  British  subjects;  and  that  the  trade  upon  the  upper 
Mississippi  was  entirely  in  their  hands.  His  separation 
or,  as  it  has  been  termed,  his  desertion  from  the  Hudson 
Bay  Co.'s  service  has  also  been  objected  to ;  but  we  be- 
lieve there  were  grounds  of  complaint  on  both  sides,  and 
having  hea^d  him  commended  by  those  who  were  inte- 
rested on  neither  side  of  the  question,  we  are  unwilling  to 
believe  that  any  blame  attaches  to  him  in  this  triansaction. 
We  found  him  uniformly  faithful,  intelligent,  and  as  vera- 
cious as  any  interpreter  we  ever  had  in  our  company. 

Mr.  Joseph  Snelling,  son  of  the  Colonel,  volunteered 
to  accompany  the  expedition  as  an  assistant  guide  and  in- 
terpreter; for  which  situation  he  had  qualified  himself  by 
a  winter's  residence  among  the  Indians  ;  his  services  were 
accepted.  Thus  reinforced,  the  party  amounting  in  the 
aggregate  to  thirty-three  j>ersons,  took  leave  of  the  officers 
of  the  garrison  by  whom  they  had  been  kindly  received ; 
by  none  more  so,  than  by  Colonel  Snelling  and  Lieutenant 
Nathan  Clark ;  who  hospitably  entertained  the  party  during 
their  stay  at  the  fort.  In  order  to  examine  both  the  river 
and  the  adjacent  country,  the  party  was  divided ;  Major 
Long  ascended  in  a  boat  with  Messrs.  Keating,  Seymour, 
and  Renville.  A  corporal,  twelve  soldiers,  and  the  black 
boy  accompanied  them.  The  men  were  divided  into  four 
canoes,  in  which  the  bulk  of  the  stores  and  provisions  was 
embarked.^ 

^  An  Italian  whom  we  met  at  Fort  St.  Antliony  attached  himself  to 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


31; 


The  land  party  consisted  of  Messrs.  Say,  Colhoun,  and 
Lieut.  Denny,  with  a  sergeant,  a  corpcial,  seven  soldiers, 
and  a  boy,  Louis  Pellais,  hired  as  a  Chippewa  interpreter. 
It  was  determined  that  the  two  divisions  should  as  far  as 
practicable  keep  company  together,  ahd  encamp  every 
nignt,  if  possible,  at  the  same  place. 

At  the  point  where  we  embarked,  which  may  be  consi- 
dered as  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter,  this  stream  is  about 
ninety  yards  wide;  it  lies  in  latitude  44°  53' 49"  north, 
longitude  93°  8'  7"  west.  The  magnetic  variation  amounts 
to  10°  28'  40"  east.  These  result  from  a  series  of  observa- 
tions made  by  Mr.  Colhoun  during  our  stay  there.  The 
river  is  called  in  the  Dacota  language  Wktk^in  M^n'esoti, 
which  means  "  the  river  of  turbid  water."  The  term  Wa- 
tapan,  which  in  that  language  signifies  river,  is  always  pre- 
fixed to  the  name  of  the  stream ;  thus  the  Mississippi  is  called 
Watapan  Tancha,  (the  bodi/  qf  rivers,  because  all  the  other 
streams  are  considered  as  branches  or  limbs,  this  being  the 
trunks)  the  Missouri  is  termed  Watapan  Mene  Shosh'd, 
"the  river  of  thick  water."  In  the  Potawatomi,  Sauk, 
and  other  languages  of  Algonquin  origin,  the  substantive 
follows  the  adjective,  as  M&g&  S6p6,  Pektannon  Sepe,  &c. 

The  name  given  to  the  St.  I'eter  is  derived  from  its  tur- 
bid appearance,  which  distinguishes  it  from  the  Missis- 
sippi, whose  waters  are  very  clear  at  the  confluence.  It  hag 
been  erroneously  stated  by  some  authors  to  signify  clear  wa- 
ter. The  Indians  make  a  great  difference,  however,  between 
the  terms  sota  and  shosha;  one  of  which  means  turbid, 


:d  himself  to 


the  expedition  and  accompanied  us  to  Pembina.  He  has  recently  pub- 
lished a  book  entitled, "  La  D^couverte  des  Sources  du  Mississippi,"  Sic. 
which  we  notice  merely  on  account  of  the  fictions  and  misrepresenta* 
tioQs  which  it  contains.    S.  H.  L. 


310 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


m.. 

''■¥V.'  ■  Mi 


and  the  other  muddy.  At  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter 
there  is  an  island  of  considerable  extent,  separated  from 
the  main  land  by  a  slough  of  the  Mississippi,  into  which  the 
St.  Peter  discharges  itself.  The  Mississippi  is  here,  ex- 
clusive of  the  island,  about  250  yards  wide.  In  ascending 
it,  particularly  in  low  water,  boats  pass  through  this  slough, 
as  it  affords  a  greater  depth  than  the  main  branch  on  the 
east  side  of  the  island.  It  was  probably,  as  Carver  suggests, 
this  island  which,  being  thickly  wooded  and  lying  imme- 
diately opposite  to  the  mouth,  concealed  the  St.  Peter  from 
Hennepin's  observation.  No  notice  of  this  river  is  to  be 
found  in  any  of  the  authors  anterior  to  the  end  of  the  17th 
century.  Indeed,  it  is  only  by  close  research  that  we  have 
beenr  enabled  to  trace  the  discovery  of  this  river  so  far  back. 
Charlevoix  states,*  that  le  Sueur  was  sent  by  M.  d'lber- 
ville  to  make  an  establishment  in  the  Sioux  country ;  and 
to  take  possession  of  a  copper  mine  that  he  had  there  dis- 
covered, (que  le  Sueur  y  avait  d^couverte;)  he  ascended 
the  St  Peter  forty  leagues  to  "  la  Riviere  Verte,"  which 
comes  in  on  the  leftt  Though  only  the  last  of  September, 
the  ice  prevented  him  from  ascending  that  river  more  than 
a  league.  He  therefore  built  a  fort  and  spent  the  winter 
at  that  spot;  in  April,  I702,|  he  went  up  the  Riviere 
Verte  to  the  mine,  which  was  only  three  quarters  of  a 
league  above  his  winter  establishment.  In  twenty-two 
days  they  got  out  more  than  thirty  thousand  pounds  of 
ore,  (de  -natiere,J  of  which  four  thousand  pounds  were 
selected  and  sent  to  France.  The  mine  was  at  the  foot  of 
a  mountain  ten  leagues  long,  that  seemed  to  be  composed 

•  Charlevoix,  Hiatoire  de  la  nouvelle  France,  a  Paris,  1744,  tome  i. 
p.  165  and  166. 
f  As  he  ascended,  right  bank? 
\  This  ought  probably  to  be  1701. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  riter. 


317 


of  the  same  substance.  After  removing  a  black  burnt  crust 
as  hard  as  rock,  the  copper  could  be  scraped  with  a  knife. 
Several  reasons,  but  particularly  the  want  of  pecuniary 
means,  prevented  le  Sueur  from  following  up  the  disco- 
very. This  account  corresponds  in  part  with  that  contain- 
ed in  a  very  interesting  manuscript  belonging  to  the  Ame- 
rican Philosophical  Society,  and  which  appears  to  have 
been  written  with  considerable  care  and  accuracy.  We 
find  it  therein  stated,  that  the  said  "  le  Sueur  arrived  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  with  M.  d'Iberville  in  Dec. 
1699;  that  he  brought  over  with  him  thirty  workmen.  He 
had  been,"  says  the  author  of  the  MS.  "  a  famous  travelU  r 
from  Canada,  and  was  sent  by  M.  L'Uuillier,  a  principal  con- 
tractor, (fermier general^)  under  government,  in  order  to 
form  an  establishment  near  the  source  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  object  of  this  enterprise  was  to  obtain  from  that  place, 
an  ore  of  green  earth  which  that  gentleman  had  discover- 
ed ;  the  following  was  the  origin  of  this  undertaking,  in 
1695.  M.  le  Sueur,  by  order  of  the  Count  de  Frontenac 
Governor  General  of  Canada,  caused  a  fort  to  be  erected 
on  an  island  on  the  Mississippi,  up«vards  cf  two  hundred 
miles  above  the  Illinois ;  in  order  to  keep  up  peaceful  re- 
lations between  the  Sioux  arid  Chippewa  nations,  which 
reside  on  the  shores  of  a  lake  upwards  of  five  hundred 
leagues  in  circumference,  which  lake  lies  one  hundred 
leagues  east  of  the  river ;  the  Sioux  reside  upon  the  upper 
Mississippi.  In  the  same  year,  according  to  his  orders,  he 
descended  to  Montreal  with  a  chief  of  the  Chippewa,  named 
Chingouab6,  and  a  Sioux,  called  Tioscat6,  who  was  the 
first  Oh"  his  nation  that  ever  was  in  Canada ;  and  as  they 
expected  to  draw  from  his  country  many  articles  valuable 
in  trade,  the  Count  de  Frontenac,  the  Chevalier  de  la  Cail- 
liere,  and  de  Champigny,  received  him  very  amicably. 


318 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


lit 


Two  days  after  their  arrival,  they  presented  to  the  Count 
de  Frontenac,  in  a  public  assembly,  as  many  arrows  as 
there  were  Sioux  villages,  and  they  informed  him  that  all 
those  villages  entreated  him  to  receive  them  among  his 
children,  as  he  had  done  to  all  the  other  nations  which 
they  named  one  after  the  other ;  which  favour  was  granted 
to  them.  M.  le  Sueur  was  to  have  reascended  the  "  Missis- 
iipi"  as  early  as  1696,  with  that  Sioux  chief  who  had  only 
come  down  upon  an  express  promise  that  he  should  be  taken 
back  to  his  country ;  but  the  latter  fell  sick  in  Montreal, 
and  died  after  thirty-three  days  disease.  M.  le  Sueur, 
finding  himself  thus  released  from  his  pledge  to  return 
into  the  Sioux  country,  where  he  had  dijcovered  mines  of 
lead,  copper,  and  eaiih,  both  blue  and  green,  resolved  upon 
going  over  to  France,  and  asking  leave  of  the  court  to  open 
those  mines ;  a  permission  to  this  effect  was  granted  to 
him  in  1697.  About  the  latter  end  of  June  in  the  same 
year,  he  embarked  at  la  Rochelle  for  Canada:  as  he  was 
crossing  Newfoundland  banks  he  was  captured  by  a  Bri- 
tish fleet  of  sixteen  ships,  and  by  them  taken  to  Ports- 
mouth ;  but  peace  having  been  soon  after  concluded,  he 
returned  to  Paris  to  obtain  a  new  commission,  as  he  had 
thrown  his  overboard,  lest  the  English  should  become  ac- 
quainted with  his  scheme.  The  French  court  directed  a 
new  commission  to  be  issued  to  him  in  1698.  He  then 
went  over  to  Canada,  where  he  met  with  various  obstacles 
which  compelled  him  to  return  to  Europe.  During  this 
interval  of  time,  part  of  the  men  whom  he  had  left  in 
charge  of  the  forts  which  he  had  erectied  in  1695,  being 
without  intelligence  from  him,  abandoned  them,  and  pro- 
ceeded down  to  Montreal."* 

•  "  Journal  hlstorique  concernant  Tetablissement  ties  Francais  a  h 
Louisianne,  tir^  des  mcmoirc?  <le  Messrs.  d'Tbervillc  Si  de  Bienville 


SOURCE  OF  ST.   PETER^S  RIVER. 


dl9 


Thus  it  appears  from  this  manuscript,  that  le  Sueur's 
discoveries  of  blue  earth  were  made  in  1695,  but  that  all 
further  operations  were  interrupted  until  1700;  we  find 
in  the  same  manuscript,  under  the  date  of  the  10th  of  Fe- 
bruary, 1702,  that  le  Sueur  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississippi  that  day  with  two  thousand  cwt  (quintaux,) 
of  blue  and  green  earth.  An  extract  from  a  narrrative  of 
his  voyage  is  then  given  from  the  time  that  he  left  the 
Island  of  Tamarois,  (12th  July,)  unto  the  13th  December, 
1700.  From  this  extract,  which  is  fraught  with  interest, 
as  it  is  the  first  account  we  can  find,  in  which  St  Peter's 
river  is  mentioned,  we  gather  that  he  reached  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri  on  the  13th  of  July,  1700,  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Wisconsan  on  the  first  of  September ;  and  that,  on 
the  14th,  he  passed  Chippewa  river,  on  one  of  the  branches 
of  which,  he  had,  during  his  first  visit  to  the  country, 
found  a  piece  of  copper  weighing  sixty  pounds.    He  next 


comtnandans  pour  le  Roi  au  dlt  pays,  et  sur  les  decouveiles  et  re- 
cherches  de  M.  B^nard  de  la  Harpe,  noinm6  au  commandement  de 
la  Baye  St.  Bernard;  par  M.  B€nard  de  la  Harpe,"  MS.  This  is  stated 
to  be  a  copy  of  the  original,  which  was,  in  the  year  1805,  in  the  poa- 
session  of  Dr.  Sibley,  as  appears  from  a  note,  annexed  to  it,  certifying 
it  to  be  a  true  copy,  and  dated  Natchitoches,  October  29th,  1805. 
From  the  manuscript  it  appears  that  M.  de  la  Harpe  was  on  the  lower 
Mississippi,  in  the  early  part  of  the  18th  century,  and  that  he  conti- 
nued there  until  the  commencement  of  tlie  year  1723.  His  appoint- 
ment to  the  command  of  St.  Bernard's  Bay,  was  made  in  the  year  1721. 
He  appears  to  have  proceeded  to  it  at  that  time ;  but  owing  to  tlie 
weakness  of  his  garrison,  he  found  himself  unable  to  continue  his  post 
there.  His  journal  throws  considerable  light  upon  the  history  of  the 
discoveries  of  the  French  on  the  lower  Mississippi,  and  is  closed  with 
a  i.temoir  upon  the  i'nportance  of  the  colony  of  Louisiana,  and  upon 
the  situation  of  that  colony  in  1724 ;  together  with  some  observations 
upon  the  best  passage  to  the  Western  Ocean,  and  upon  the  origin  of 
the  Indians  of  America. 


3j30 


EXPEDITION  TO  rau 


entered  Lake  Pepin,  which  is  designated  by  that  name  in 
the  manuscript,  although  Hennepin  had,  in  1680,  called  it 
the  Lake  of  Tears,  and  notwithstanding  the  appellation  of 
Lac  de  Bon  Secours,  which  Charlevoix  applies  to  it  On 
the  16th  he  passed  the  St  Croix,  so  called  from  the  name 
of  a  Frenchman,  who  was  wrecked  at  its  mouth.  Finally, 
on  the  19th  of  September,  he  left  the  Mississippi,  and  en- 
tered the  St  Peter's  river,  which  comes  in  from  the  west 
bank.  By  the  first  of  October,  he  had  ascended  this  river 
forty-four  and  a  quarter  leagues,  when  he  entered  the  Blue 
river,  the  name  of  which  is  derived  from  the  blue  earth 
found  on  its  banks.  At  the  mouth  of  this  river  he  made 
an  establishment,  situated,  as  la  Harpe  states,  in  latitude 
44°  13'  north.  He  met  with  nine  Sioux,  who  informed  him 
that  this  river  had  its  course  through  the  lands  of  the 
Sioux  of  the  west,  the  t^yavoiSy  ( lawas^)  and  the  Otoetata, 
who  lived  further  back.  We  infer  that  these  were  the  same 
streams  which  he  had  ascended  in  1695,  from  the  circum- 
stance that  they  are  mentioned  as  well  known,  and  not  as 
recently  discovered ;  and  more  especially  from  the  obser- 
vation of  la  Harpe,  that  the  eastern  Sioux  having  complain- 
ed of  the  situation  of  the  fort,  which  they  would  have 
wished  to  see  at  the  confluence  of  the  St  Peter  and  Mis- 
sissippi, M.  le  Sueur  endeavoured  to  reconcile  them  to  it 
"  He  had  foreseen,"  says  la  Harpe,  "  that  an  establishment 
on  the  Blue  river  would  not  be  agreeable  to  the  eastern 
Sioux,  who  are  the  rulers  of  all  the  other  Sioux,  and  of 
the  other  nations  which  we  have  mentioned,  because  they 
were  the  first  with  whom  the  French  traded,  and  whom 
they  provided  with  guns;  nevertheless,  as  this  undertak- 
ing had  not  been  commenced  with  the  sole  view  of  trading 
for  beavers,  but  in  order  to  become  thoroughly  acquainted 
with  the  quality  of  the  various  mines  which  he  had  pre- 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   FETER's  RIVER. 


321 


viomly  discovered  there,  he  replied  to  the  natives  that  he 
was  sorry  that  he  had  not  been  made  sooner  acquainted 
with  their  wishes,  &c.  but  that  the  advanced  state  of  the 
season  prevented  his  returning  to  the  mouth  of  the  river." 
No  mention  is  made,  in  this  narrative,  of  the  stream  being 
obstructed  with  ice,  a  circumstance,  which,  had  it  really 
occurred,  would,  we  think,  have  been  recorded  by  de  la 
Harpe,  who  appears  to  have  been  a  careful  and  a  curious 
observer,  and  who  undoubtedly  saw  le  Sueur's  original 
narrative.  On  the  14th  of  October  the  works  were  com- 
pleted and  werp.  named  Fort  L'Huillier. 

On  the  26th,  M.  le  Sueur  went  to  the  mine  with  three 
eanoes,  which  he  loaded  with  green  and  blue  earth ;  it  was 
taken  from  mountains  near  which  are  very  abundant  mines 
of  copper,  of  which  an  assay  was  made  in  Paris  by  M. 
L'Huillier  in  the  year  1696.  This  is 'the  last  historical 
fact  of  any  interest  contained  in  the  extract  from  le  Sueur's 
journal.  M.  de  la  Harpe  observes,  "  la  suite  des  m^moires 
de  Monsieur  le  Siieur  n'a  point  paru,"  whidh  would  seem 
to  imply  that  the  former  part  had  been  published ;  yet  we 
find  no  notice  taken  of  this  traveller's  meipoirs  in  any  of 
the  catalogues  of  works  on  America,  to  -which  we  have 
had  access.  It  is  not  mentioned  in  the  "  Bibliothecae  Ame- 
ricanse  Primordia,"  published  by  a  member  of  the  Society 
for  the  propagation  of  the  Gospel  in  foreign  parts,  Lon- 
don, 1713;  nor.  in  the  "  Bibliotheca  Americana,  or  Chro- 
nological Catalogue  of  curious  Books  in  print  or  manu- 
script on  the  subject  of  North  and  South  America,"  in 
London,  1789;«or  in  the  "Catalogue  of  Mr.  Warden's 
Books  on  America,  Paris,  1820,"  from  which  circumstance 
we  are  induced  to  doubt  whether  it  was  ever  made  public. 
We  even  find  no  account  of  de  la  Harpe's  manuscript,  whence 
we  suppose  that  it  has  not  yet  been  brought  into  notice. 

Vol.  I.  41 


522 


exped:tion  to  thk 


The  river  St.  Peter  is  fouiiv-l  traced  on  some  of  the  olil 
jnaps  of  Louisiana ;  for  instance,  on  that  which  accompa- 
nies the  Recueil  de  Voyages^  published  in  Amsterdam  in 
1720,  upon  which  Fort  L'Huillier  i^  mar"^-d.  Upon  this 
map  a  coal  mine  is  also  designated,  as  existing  about  ten 
leagues  up  the  St.  Peter.  If  this  be  not  purely  ideal,  it 
must  have  resulted  from  mistaking  lignite  for  that  mineral, 
as  this  is  not  a  coal  country. 

Coxe,  whose  general  accuracy  entitles  him  to  considera- 
ble praise,  and  who  appears  to  have  taken  great  pains  to 
collect  information  on  the  subject  of  the  discuveries  made 
in  Louisiana,  has,  by  a  strange  oversight,  left  out  St.  Pe- 
ter's river,  and  introduced  on  his  map,  the  Riviere  Longue, 
the  Lake  of  Thoyago,  and  all   the  fables  of  Lahontan, 
in  whom  he  seems  to  place  much  confidence.     This  is 
the  more  remarkable,  as  the  Carolana,  published  in  1741, 
was  twenty  years  later  than  the  Amsterdam  Recueil.  The 
4St.  Peter  is  mentioned  in  an  incidental  manner  by  Charle- 
voix  in  his  Journal  Historique,  but  he  attempts  no  descrip- 
tion of  it.*    We  have  sought  in  vain  for  the  origin  of  the 
name ;  we  can  find  no  notice  of  it ;  it  appears  to  us  at  pre- 
sent not  unlikely,  that  the  name  may  have  been  given  by. 
le  Sueur,  in   1795,  in  honour  of  M.  St.  Pierre  de  Repan- 
tigni,  to  whom  Lahontan  incidentally  alludes,  as  being  in 
Canada  in  the  year  1789.t    This  person  may  have  accom- 
panied le  Sueur  on  his  expedition.    It  has  been,  we  know 
not  upon  what  authority,  suggested  that  the  French  name 
of  this  river,  St.  Pierre,  was  a  corruption  of  the  term  Sans 
pierres,  (without  stones,)  said  to  have(J)een  given  to  it, 
because  no  stones  occur  along  its  banks  for  a  considerable 
distance  from  its  mouth.    It  is  very  strange,  that  notwith- 


Ut  supra,  pages  110, 295,  and  296.        f  Lahontan,  vol  I.  p.  136. 


SOURCE   OF  ST    FETER's  RIVER. 


323 


standing  the  great  importance  which  seems  to  have  been 
attached  in  France  to  le  Sueur's  discoveries,  so  little 
should  have  been  said  by  other  authors,  concerning  this 
explorer  and  the  regions  which  he  discovered. 

Carver  is  the  only  traveller  who  states  that  he  visited  this 
river,  merely  from  motives  of  curiosity ;  but  a  close  perusal 
of  his  book,  has  satisfied  us  that  he  professes  too  much.  He 
asserts  that  he  "  proceeded  upon  the  river  about  two  hun- 
dred miles,  to  the  country  of  the  Naudowessies  of  the  plains, 
which  lies  a  little  above  the  forks  formed  by  the  Verd  and 
Red  Marble  rivers."  He  states  that  he  resided  five  months 
among  the  Naudowessies,  and  that  he  acqi  ired  their  lan- 
guage perfectly.  We  are  inclined  to  doubt  this  ;  we  believe 
that  he  ascended  the  Mississippi  to  the  Falls  of  St.  An- 
thony, that  he  saw  the  St.  Peter,  and  thaJ;  he  may  even 
perhaps  have  entered  it ;  but  had  he  resided  five  months 
in  the  country,  and  become  acquainted  with  their  lan- 
guage, it  is  not  probable  that  he  would  have  uniforn^jjL 
applied  to  them  the  term  of  Naudowessies,  and  omitiifff 
calling  them  the  Dacota  Indians,  as  they  style  themselves. 
It  is  probable  that  Carver  derived  his  name  from  the  source 
from  which  the  other  travellers  received  that  of  Nadiou- 
sioux,  from  which  Sioux  has  been  derived  by  abbrevia- 
tion. This  is  the  term  given  to  strangers  by  some  of 
the  North  American  Indians,  (the  Iroquois,  as  we  believe,) 
and  with  them  is  synonymous  with  that  of  enemy.  The 
term  Dacota,  by  which  the  Sioux  call  themselves,  signi- 
fies in  their  language  the  united  or  allied,  because  the 
whole  nation  consists  of  several  allied  tribes.  In  his  ac* 
count  of  the  river  St.  Peter,  Carver  attributes  to  it  a 
breadth  of  nearly  one  hundred  yards  for  two  hundred 
miles,  whereas  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  thirty 
Qiiles  it  was  but  seventy  yards  wide,  and  was  found  to  be 


au 


£XP£OITION   TO    THK 


rapidly  dimlni:>)iing  in  size.  He  also  ascribes  to  it  "  a 
great  depth/'  which  is  not  the  case  at  any  distance  abova 
its  mouth. 

We  saw  no  branch  of  the  river  coming  in  from  the 
north  but  a  few  small  tributaries  not  entitled  to  notice. 
Carver's  river,  which  had  been  inserted  on  most  of  the 
maps  made  since  the  publication  of  his  book,  has  therefore 
been  omitted  on  that  which  accompanies  this  work.  It  is 
scarcely  possible  that  if  Carver  had  ascended  the  St.  Peter 
two  hundred  miles,  he  would  have  reported  without  con- 
tradicting them,  the  exaggerated  accounts  of  the  great  ex- 
tent of  this  river,  or  attributed  to  it  a  rise  near  the  Shining, 
(Rocky,)  Mountains ;  but  besides  these  inaccuracies,  some 
of  which  may  perhaps  be  partly  accounted  for  by  his  hav- 
ing seen  the  river  at  a  time  when  it  was  unusually  high, 
and  when  a  mere  brook  may  have  been  so  much  swollen 
as  to  be  mistaken  for  a  small  branch  of  the  river,  yet  we 

«not  place  any  confidence  in  him  on  account  of  the  many 
representations  contained  in  his  work.   Almost  all  that 
he  relates  as  peculiar  to  the  Naudowessies,  is  found  to  ap- 
ply to  the  Sauks,  or  some  other  nation  of  Algonquin  ori- 
gin.    Thus  on  reading  to  Renville,  Dickson,  (the  son  of 
the  late  Colonel  Dickson,)  and  to  several  other  of  the  half- 
Indian  interpreters  whom  we  saw  on  the  St  Peter,  that 
part  of  chapter  12th  of  his  work,  in  which  he  relates  that 
"  the  Naudowessies  have  a  singular  method  of  celebrating 
their  marriages  which  seems  to  bear  no  resemblance  to 
those  made  use  of  by  any  other  nations  that  he  passed 
through,"  these  men  all  exclaimed  that  it  was  fabulous, 
that  such  a  practice  had  never  prevailed  among  any  of  the 
Dacotas,  though  they  believed  it  to  be  in  use  with  some 
of  the  Algonquin  tribes.     The  practice  of  having  a  totem 
or  family  distinction,  exists,  as  we  have  already  stated, 


SOUROU   OF   ST.    PETSR's    RIVER. 


S»5 


•mong  the  Sauks,  &c.  but  it  is  quite  unknown  to  the  Sioux, 
to  whom  it  is  attributed  by  this  writer.     It  is,  we  believe, 
clearly  proved  at  present,  that  the  land  which  he  claimed 
by  virtue  of  a  grant  from  the  Indians,  was  never  conveyed 
to  him  by  them.     Attempts  were  made  in  1817,  by  two 
of  his  grandsons,  to  have  the  claim  recognized  by  some  of 
the  Indians  now  living;  they  ascended  the  river  at  the 
same  time  that  Major  Long  did,  but  were  not  successful. 
An  instrument  purporting  to  be  the  original  treaty  was  af- 
terwards sent  to  Canada,  and  placed  in  Renville's  hands  by 
those  who  had  an  interest  in  the  claim ;  he  was  requested 
to  show  it  and  explain  its  nature  to  the  Indians,  and  to  en- 
deavour to  obtain  a  confirmation  of  it  from  them  ;  but,  as 
he  informed  us,  he  could  find  no  individual  aPiong  them, 
who  had  the  least  recollection  or  tradition  of  this  convey- 
ance,  or  even  of  the  names  which  are  purported  to  have 
been  affixed  to  the  deed  ;  the  Indians  have  no  hesitation 
in  asserting  that  there  never  were  among  them  any  Dae 
chiefs  of  the  name.    When  chapter  5th  of  Carver's  wo 
was  read  to  Renville  and  the  other  men,  they  denied  the 
truth  of  its  contents ;  but  immediately  recollected  the  de- 
signs of  a  snake  and  a  tortoise,  which  were  affixed  to  the 
treaty,  no  doubt  to  make  it  tally  with  the  account  of  their 
family  distinctions  contained  in  that  chapter  of  his  travels. 
His  vocabulary  appears  certainly  to  have  been  taken  from 
the  Dacota  language  ;  it  may  have  been  obtained  from  the 
Indians  along  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  but  was  more 
probably  copied  from  some  former  traveller,  for  a  refer- 
ence to  old  works  will  prove  that  Carver  derived  much  of 
his  information  from  them,  though  no  credit  is  given  to 
their  authors  for  it.     A  comparison  of  his  account  of  the 
manners  of  the  Indians  with  that  given  by  Lahontan, 
shows  that  he  was  familiar  with  that  author.    His  state- 


f 


i     ^ 


ds6 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


mcmt  of  the  division  of  tiie  year  by  the  Indians  into  twelve 
mcions,  with  the  addition  at  the  end  of  the  thirtieth,  of 
what  they  term  the  lost  moon,  &c.  is  extracted,  and  in 
sorae  places  copied  almost  verbatim,  from  Lahontan's ; 
his  account  of  the  qualifications  of  men  is  undoubtedly 
drawn  from  the  same  author ;  and  a  comparison  of  chapter 
12th  of  Carver'^  Descrir*ion  of  the  Indians,  with  Lahon- 
tan's  "  Account  of  the  amours  and  marriages  of  the  Sa- 
vages,'* will  show  too  close  a  coincidence  to  consider  it  as 
merely  accidental.  Yet  no  reference  is  made  by  Carver  to 
the  work  of  his  predecessor.  We  have  introduced  these 
observations  upon  the  work  of  Carver,  because  as  ho  was 
the  only  traveller  thnt  published  an  account  of  the  St, 
Petsr,  he  has  been  freq  fently  quoted  as  an  autiiority.  We 
might  have  enlarge  d  the  list  of  errors,  whethi3r  wilful  pr 
unintentional,  into  which  this  author  has  fallen,  but  we 
h   ~e  said  enough  to  show  that  his  statements  cannot  be  re- 

fd  upon  as  rorrect. 
Major  Long's  party  ascended  the  river  five-  and  a  half 
miles,  and  stopped  for  a  few  moments  at  a  village  called 
^03.ii68ka,  (which  signifies  V-he  great  avenue  or  stretch,)  situ- 
ated on  the  right  bank ;  they  then  proceeded  about  one  mile 
higher  up,  where  they  lay  by  in  a  deserted  cabin  on  the  left 
bank.  The  cabin  having  been  carefully  closed  in  order  to 
secure  it  against  injury  from  wild  animals ;  they  took  down 
the  skins  which  hung  at  the  door,  and  made  themselves 
comfortable  in  it.  While  at  supper,  they  received  a  visit 
from  an  old  squaw,  who  came  from  the  village  below,  to 
see  what  they  were  doing.  The  lodge,  as  she  informed 
them,  was  her's,  but  as  the  men  had  all  gone  out  hunting, 
she  had  removed  down  to  live  with  her  daughter.  Having 
observed  a  fire  near  her  cabin  she  was  apprehensive  that 
some  injury  would  be  done  to  it ;  they  however  sf»ti^fled 


.SOURCE  OF   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


327 


her  that  their  intentions  were  friendly  ;  and  Renville  in- 
formed the  gentlemen  that  no  offence  could  be  taken  at 
their  intrusion  in  the  house,  as  they  were  travelling  in  an 
oflScial  capacity,  but  that  if  other  Indians,  or  voyagers  that 
were  not  known,  had  taken  that  liberty,  it  would  have 
been  held  highly  improper.  There  was  something  grati- 
fying and  yet  melancholy  in  the  recollection  that  we  had 
thus  for  awhile  bid  adieu  to  civilization,  and  that  before 
us  we  had  none  but  a  wide  and  untravelled  land,  where  no 
white  men  resided  except  such  as  had  forsworn  their  coun- 
try and  the  friends  of  their  youth ;  who  either  out  of  aver- 
sion from  society  or  for  the  sake  of  lucre  had  withdrawn 
from  its  social  circle,  to  dwell  in  the  midst  of  the  unci- 
vilized tenants  of  the  forest.  It  was  while  indulging  in  these 
reflections,  by  the  light  of  a  few  embers,  that  we  received 
this  unexpected  visit  from  the  owner  of  the  lodge.  Her 
wrinkled  brow,  her  decrepid  mien,  her  slovenly  appearance, 
gave  her  a  somewhat  terrifying  aspect,  as  seen  by  the  un- 
certain light  that  played  upon  her  haggard  features  ;  h^ 
shrill  voice  contributed  also  to  heighten  the  awfulness  of 
this  untimely  visitor ;  but  our  interpreter  having  explain- 
ed to  us  the  object  of  her  visit,  we  had  leisure  to  observe 
her  companions,  who  were  two  of  her  grand-daughters ; 
these  were  as  handsome  and  as  good  looking  as  Indian  fe- 
males can  probably  be ;  they  were  young,  about  fifteen  or 
sixteen ;  their  complexion  was  so  light  that  we  could 
scarcely  credit  the  assertion  of  our  guide  that  they  were 
full-blooded  Indians ;  their  features  were  regular ;  the  large 
dark  eye  which  distinguished  the  elder  would  have  been 
deemed  beautiful  any  where ;  their  forms,  which  were 
good,  were  perhaps  taller  than  those  which  we  usually 
found  among  Indian  women.  But  what  added  most  to 
their  charms,  was  the  gay>  good-humoured  appearance 


338 


£XP£DIT|ON  TO   TUB 


which  brightened  their  eye  and  animated  their  features. 
While  the  old  bag  was  muttering  her  discontent,  they 
were  smiling,  and  as  she  extended  her  bony  hand  to  re- 
ceive the  present  offered  her,  the  damsels  burst  out  into  a 
laughter  which  displayed  a  beautiful  set  of  teeth.  Their  ob- 
servations upon  our  party  seemed  to  afford  them  as  much 
gratification  as  we  derived  from  the  examination  of  theirs, 
and  the  merriment  which  it  occasioned  them  was  display- 
ed in  the  most  unreserved  manner.  After  a  visit  of  about 
half  an  hour  they  all  withdrew,  leaving  us  to  the  undis- 
turbed occupancy  of  the  lodge.  This  visit  offered  us  food 
for  conversation  until  we  retired  to  enjoy,  what  had  been 
for  the  last  two  months  the  object  of  our  anxious  anticipa- 
tions, a  night's  rest  upon  the  secluded  banks  of  the  St. 
Peter.  We  this  day  met  Major  Taliaferro  going  down 
the  river  in  a  canoe.  In  order  to  afford  us  an  opportunity 
of  studying  the  manners  of  the  Indians  in  council,  he  had 
kindly  undertaken  to  ascend  to  the  village  of  the  Sisiton 
Band  of  the  Sioux,  for  the  purpose  of  holding  a  council 
with  them  in  our  presence,  and  with  this  view  had  left  the 
fort  that  morning ;  but  being  informed  on  the  river  that 
they  had  all  dispersed  on  their  summer  hunts,  he  return- 
ed the  same  evening.* 

The  next  day  we  travelled  about  thirty-five  miles ;  at  six 
miles  from  the  night's  camp,  we  passed  the  small  village 
of  Tetankatane ;  all  the  men  were  absent  on  their  hunts. 


*  Swanns  of  an  insect  of  the  Linnean  genus  Ephemera,  were  observ< 
ed  by  the  party,  along  tlie  banks  of  the  river.  It  has  been  described 
by  Mr.  Say  under  the  name  of  Baetis  bilineata,  S.  (Appendix  I.  Ento- 
molo^.)  The  surface  of  the  river  was  in  many  places  absolutely  co- 
vered with  the  remuns  of  these  insects,  who,  having  gone  through  their 
shortlived  existence,  fell  upon  the  water  and  were  carried  down  the 
stream. 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER  S   RIVER. 


339 


We  jMPpceeded  up  the  river,  and,  at  a  distance  of  about 
twenty  miles,  Mr.  Say  was  spoken  to  on  shore.  Instruc- 
tions were  sent  through  him  to  the  land  party,  to  meet 
Major  Long,  at  a  village  two  miles  higher,  in  order  to  take 
advantage  of  the  canoes,  for  the  transportation  of  the  bag- 
gage across  the  river,  as  the  right  bank  becomes  here  bet- 
ter for  travelling  than  the  left.  The  flotilla  reached  this 
village  about  twelve  o'clock,  and  waited  five  hours,  during 
which  the  land  party  did  not  join  them ;  men  were  sent 
out  in  various  directions  and  guns  fired,  but  no  answer  be- 
ing returned,  we  concluded  that  they  had  proceeded  higher 
up  the  river.  We  re-embarked  and  ascended  ten  miles  to 
a  small  wood,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  The  vil- 
lage at  which  we  had  expected  to  meet  the  other  party,  is 
ealied  T46&pi ;  it  consists  of  fifteen  large  bark  lodges,  in 
good  order ;  ihey  were  arranged  along  the  river.  Some  of 
them  were  large  enough  to  hold  from  thirty  to  fifty  per- 
sons, accommodated  as  the  Indians  usually  are  in  their 
lodges.  The  ground  near  it  is  neatly  laid  out,  and  som<f 
fine  corn-fields  were  observed  in  the  vicinity.  There  were 
scafiblds  annexed  to  the  houses,  for  the  purpose  of  drying 
maize,  &c. ;  upon  these  we  were  told  that  the  Indians  sleep 
during  very  hot  nights. 

The  river  banks  had  thus  far  been  low,  and  covered 
with  a  fine  rich  vegetation ;  the  trees  attained  a  large  size 
near  the  river,  but  they  were  not  found  far  into  the  interior 
of  the  country.  Near  Fort  St  Anthony  there  is  a  fine  piece 
of  bottom,  exposed  to  occasional  inundations.  The  line 
of  blufis,  which  borders  upon  the  Mississippi,  does  not  ex- 
tend far  from  that  stream,  but  gradually  sinks  in  height^ 
until  it  finally  disappears  near  the  village  of  Oanoska.  The 
soil  along  the  river  is  of  the  best  quality.  After  ascending 
about  thirty  miles,  the  blu£fs  reappear,  and  rise  to  an  av«- 

Vol.  I.  42 


330 


EXPEDrriON   TO    THE 


rage  height  of  seventy-five  feet  on  the  left  bank.  Ip  the 
bottoms,  the  elm  forms  the  principal  growth  of  the  coun- 
try,  and  thrives.  In  the  rear  of  the  village  of  Taoapa,  a 
swamp  extends,  and  divides  it  from  the  bluffs.  The  grass 
grows  in  some  places  to  the  height  of  six  feet,  as  was  prin- 
cipally observed,  east  of  the  village,  by  some  of  the  party 
who  undert'*'''!  to  walk  down  to  the  place  where  Mr.  Say 
had  been  spoken  to.  We  saw  about  the  \'illage  no  stones 
of  any  kind,  but,  on  the  right  bank,  Major  Long  observed  a 
number  of  fragments  of  primitive  rock,  and  also  some  seer .  • 
dary  limestone,  which  appeared  to  him  to  be  in  situ.  There 
were  some  scaffolds  upon  which  several  corpses  were  rais- 
ed. In  the  miist  of  the  corn-fields  a  dog  was  found  sus- 
pended, his  head  decorated  with  feathers,  and  with  horse-? 
hair  stained  red  •  it  w^as  probably  a  sacrifice  for  the  protec- 
tion of  tlm  corn-fields,  during  the  absence  of  the  Indians. 
On  the  right  bank  Major  Long  observed  numerous  ancient 
tumuli  or  artificial  mounds,  some  of  which  were  of  a  large 
size.  They  occupy  a  considerable  extent  of  the  prairie 
upon  which  they  are  situated.  In  one  part,  they  formed  a 
line  of  about  half  a  mile,  in  a  direction  parallel  to  the  river, 
from  which  they  were  distant  about  three  hundred  yards. 
The  mounds  were  erected  at  a  distance  of  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  yards  asunder,  and  when  observed  from  one  end  of 
the  line,  presented  the  appearance  of  a  ridge  or  parapet 

Proceeding  early  the  next  morning,  the  land  party  was 
found  encamped  six  miles  above  the  village,  on  a  fine 
piece  of  rising  ground,  which  the  voyagers  have  called  tha 
Little  Prairie.  They  had  not  been  able  to  reach  the  village 
from  the  inexperience  of  their  guide,  who  had  kept  them 
in  the  rear  of  the  swamp.  The  river  was  observed  to 
widen  much  at  places ;  it  was  here  about  seventy  yards 
broad ;  its  current,  which  had  always  been  inconsiderable, 


SOURCE   '  P   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


331 


compared  with  that  of  the  Mississippi,  increased  as  we  ad- 
vanced. The  cause  of  this  is,  that  the  great  volume  of  wa- 
ter, which  the  Mississippi  rolls  down,  backs  up  the  waters 
of  most  of  its  tributary  streams,  and  produces  a  real  pond 
at  their  mouth.  This  is  no  doubt  the  cause  of  the  lake 
formed  by  the  St.  Croix,  &c. 

Our  flotilla  assisted  the  land  party  in  crossing  the  river, 
after  which  we  again  separated ;  and  the  boat,  having  as- 
cended a  few  miles,  came  to  rapids  formed  by  two  bars  of 
sandstone,  which  extend  across  the  river,  producing  a  fall 
of  about  four  feet  within  twenty  yards.  The  water  in  the 
river,  at  the  time  we  ascended,  wa?  of  an  average  height, 
remarkable  neither  for  its  '^undanc*^  nor  scarcity ;  and  at 
this  stage  we  found  at  the  falls  just  water  enough  to  float 
our  boats  and  canoes,  with  the  baggage  and  stores  in  them, 
the  crew  and  passengers  walking  alongside  and  dragging 
them  up  thU  rapid.  A  shoal  below,  had  likewise  required  that 
our  canoes  should  be  lightened.  Another  rapid  about  half 
a  mile  above,  proved  more  difficult  to  pass.  There  being 
a  sufficient  depth  of  water,  we  ascended  in  the  boat  and 
canoes ;  one  of  the  latter  missed  the  channel,  which  is  nar- 
row, and  in  which  there  is  a  rapid  current;  the  canoe  drift- 
ed down  against  the  rock,  and  fears  were  entertained  that 
it  would  be  lost;  but  with  considerable  labour,  and  after 
about  half  an  hour's  detention,  it  was  at  last  brought  up 
safe.  The  aggregate  fall  of  the  two  rapids  is  seven  feet. 
At  a  short  distance  above  this  we  stopped  for  an  hour; 
this  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  nature  of  the 
country.  The  stream  is  there  incased  by  a  vertical  bank, 
about  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  the  base  of  which  is  washed 
by  the  river.  Ascending  this  bank  we  find  a  level  valley, ' 
which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide ;  this  is  limited  by 
a  steep  and  rugged  bank,  of  about  twenty  feet  in  height 


3^2 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


Having  ascended  this  bank,  a  beautiful  prairie,  apparently 
very  extensive,  displayed  itself  to  our  view.  The  steep 
bank,  which  exposes  the  disposition  of  the  rock,  shows  it 
to  be  a  sandstone  formation,  in  a  horizontal  stratification, 
and  of  a  fine  crystalline  grain ;  the  colour  varying  from 
white  to  yellow  ;  this  sandstone  is,  in  every  respect,  simi- 
lar to  that  found  at  Fort  St  Anthony.  Six  miles  above  the 
rapids,  there  is  a  small  Indian  settlement,  called  Ay^ak&dtd. 
It  was  deserted,  but  consisted  of  two  lodges  and  the  ruins 
of  a  third,  near  which  there  were  two  scafifolds.  On  these 
scaffolds,  which  are  from  eight  to  ten  feet  high,  corpses 
were  deposited  in  a  box  made  from  part  of  a  broken  ca- 
noe. Some  hair  was  suspended,  which  we  at  first  mistook 
for  a  scalp ;  but  our  guide  informed  us  that  these  were  locks 
of  hair  torn  from  their  heads  by  the  relations,  to  testify  their 
grief.  In  the  centre,  between  the  four  posts  which  support- 
ed the  scaffold,  a  stake  was  planted  in  the  groi^jd ;  it  was 
about  six  feet  high,  and  bore  an  imitation  of  human  figures ;. 
five  of  which  had  a  design  of  a  petticoat,  indicating  them 
to  be  females,  the  rest,  amounting  to  seven,  were  naked, 
and  were  intended  for  male  figures.  Of  the  latter,  four 
were  headless,  showing  that  they  had  been  slain ;  the  three 
other  male  figures  were  unmutilated,  but  held  a  stafi  in 
their  hand,  which,  as  our  guide  informed  us,  designated 
that  they  were  slaves.  The  post,  which  is  an  usual  accom- 
paniment to  the  scaffold  that  supports  a  warrior's  remains, 
does  not  represent  the  achievements  of  the  deceased,  but 
those  of  the  warriors  that  assembled  near  his  remains, 
danced  the  dance  of  the  post,  and  related  their  martial  ex- 
ploits. A  number  of  small  bones  of  animals  were  observed 
in  the  vicinity,  which  were  probably  left  there  after  a  feast 
eelebrated  in  honour  of  the  dead.  The  boxes  in  which  the 
corpses  were  placed  are  so  short  that  a  man  could  not  lie 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER'S   RIVER. 


333 


in  them  extended  at  full  length,  but  in  a  country  where 
boxes  and  boards  are  scarce,  this  is  overlooked.  After  the 
corpses  have  remained  a  certain  time  exposed,  they  are 
taken  down  and  interred.  Our  guide,  Renville,  related  to 
us,  that  he  had  been  a  witness  to  an  interesting,  though 
painful  circumstance,  that  occurred  here.  An  Indian  who 
resided  on  the  Mississippi,  hearing  that  his  son  had  died 
at  this  spot,  came  up  in  a  canoe,  to  take  charge  of  the  re- 
mains, and  convey  them  down  the  river  to  his  place  of  abode ; 
but,  on  his  arrival,  he  found  that  the  corpse  had  already 
made  such  progress  towards  decomposition,  as  rendered  it 
impossible  for  it  to  be  removed.  He  then  undertook,  with 
a  few  friends,  to  clean  off  the  bones;  all  the  flesh  was 
scraped  o£f  and  thrown  into  the  stream ;  the  bones  were 
carefully  collected  into  his  canoe,  and  subsequently  carried 
down  to  his  residence. 

The  two  parties  having  exchanged  a  few  words  at  this 
place,  continued  their  journey.  The  boats  proceeded  but 
three  miles  beyond  this  to  an  encamping  ground.  The  na- 
vigation had  been  an  easy  one  except  at  the  rapids.  In  a 
few  places,  however,  snags  were  seen,  which  partly  im- 
peded the  main  channel.  The  next  day  they  were  fourd 
more  numerous,  as  were  also  the  sandbars,  which  some- 
times rendered  the  navigation  of  the  river  troublesome. 
The  skiff,  which  had  been  obtained  for  Major  Long  and 
the  gentlemen's  use,  as  more  pleasant  than  a  canoe,  was 
found  very  inconvenient,  being  leaky  and  slow  of  motion, 
so  that  the  party  gladly  embraced  the  opportunity  of  ex- 
changing her  for  a  fine  canoe  belonging  to  a  trader  whom 
we  met  returning  to  Fort  St.  Anthony.  The  forests,  which 
had  principally  consisted  of  cotton-wood,  birch,  &c.  were 
observed  to  become  more  luxuriant,  and  to  be  replaced  by 
a  heavy  growth  of  oak  and  elm.    The  soil  appeared  ex- 


334 


EXPEDITION   TO    TILE 


cellent  and  deep,  the  roots  extending  sometimes  three  feet 
under  ground.  The  sandbars  and  small  islands  are  cover- 
ed with  groves  of  willow.  A  few  hills,  composed  princi- 
pally of  loose  sand,  were  observed  during  the  journey  of 
die  12th ;  one  of  which,  distant  about  half  a  mile  east  from 
the  encampment,  was  estimated  at  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  height  The  latitude  of  the  camp  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  12th  of  July  was  observed  to  be  44°  33'  59"  N. 
which  shows  that  the  general  direction  of  the  river  thus 
far  is  south  of  west.  We  reached  the  extremity  of  the 
forest  the  next  morning,  and  found  on  the  prairie  a  small 
party  of  Indians  encamped.  We  were  told  that  the  prin- 
cipal of  these  was  the  old  chief  who  formerly  resided  at 
Weakaote.  He  has  thirty  or  forty  warriors  under  his  com- 
mand, who  intend  to  remove  from  their  old  residence  to 
this  spot,  as  the  other  place  is  considered  unhealthy ;  by 
white  men  it  is  called  Fever  Sandbar. 

Notwithstanding  these  circumstances,  the  St  Peter  is 
generally  deemed  very  healthy,  and  in  despite  of  the  unfa- 
vourable name  applied  to  the  sandbar,  it  is  said  to  be  free 
from  intermittent  fevers.  Our  party  continued  all  in  health 
except  one  of  the  soldiers,  who  had  a  few  chills  and  fits  of 
fever,  which  were  soon  checked.  It  was  supposed  that  he 
had  brought  the  seeds  of  it  from  the  Mississippi. 

Prairie  land  was  again  observed  to  border  upon  the 
river,  the  number  of  islands  increased,  and  the  navigation 
became  extremely  tedious.  At  one  of  the  landing  places, 
we  observed  a  block  of  granite  of  about  eighty  pounds 
weight ;  it  was  painted  red  and  covered  with  a  grass  fillet, 
in  which  were  placed  twists  of  tobacco  offered  up  in  sacri- 
fice. Feathers  were  stuck  in  the  ground  all  round  the 
stone. 

In  the  afternoon^  one  of  the  canoes  was  unfortunately 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PETER  S   RIVER. 


a^A 


upset ;  the  men  who  were  in  it  regained  the  shore  with 
some  difficulty,  but  much  of  the  cargo  was  lost  or  damaged. 
Among  the  articles  lost,  the  most  important  was  a  keg  of 
tobacco,  which  was  intended  for  presents  to  the  Indians,^ 
and  a  considerable  part  of  our  ammunition,  which,  getting 
wet,  became  either  totally  unfit  for  use,  or  very  much  da- 
maged. We  had  scarcely  repaired,  as  much  as  lay  in  our 
power,  the  bad  effects  of  this  accident,  when  we  observed 
the  heavens  overcast  with  dark  clouds  portending  an  ap- 
proaching storm.  We  immediately  landed  with  a  view  to 
shelter  our  stores  and  our  persons  against  the  rain.  About 
seven  in  the  evening,  the  storm  broke  out  with  more  vio- 
lence than  usually  happens  in  our  climates.  The  precau- 
tions which  we  had  taken  proved  of  but  little  or  no  avail. 
The  stores,  which  had  been  carefully  packed  up  in  a  canoe 
and  covered  up  as  well  as  our  means  permitted,  were 
much  damaged  by  the  water  which  half  filled  the  canoe. 
Among  them  was  our  biscuit,  coffee,  sugar,  &c.  The  tent 
had  been  pitched  in  as  favourable  a  spot,  with  respect  to 
the  trees,  as  the  ground  would  admit  of,  but  not  sufficient- 
ly so  to  render  it  either  safe  or  comfortable.  Several  trees, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  tent,  were  struck  wjth  lightning,  and 
the  wind  blew  with  such  force  that  the  crash  of  falling  tim- 
ber was  fi'equently  heard  during  the  night  The  rain  con- 
tinued to  pour  down  with  great  abundance  until  morning, 
when  we  were  pleased  to  observe  the  sun  rise  fair,  and  af- 
ford us  a  chance  of  drying  our  baggage  and  stores.  That 
spot  being  inconvenient  for  the  purpose,  we  proceeded  a 
few  miles  higher  up,  to  an  old  wintering  camp  of  the 
traders ;  we  remained  there  several  hours ;  our  canoes  be- 
ing occupied  in  transporting  the  baggage  of  the  land  party  to 
the  left  bank  of  the  river.  The  St  Peter  is  here  fordable  for 
horses,     During  our  stay  at  this  place  Major  Long  found 


336 


BXPEDITION   TO   THE 


that  the  combined  effects  of  the  two  calamities,  experienced 
within  the  last  twenty-four  hours,  had  required  a  change  in 
our  mode  of  travelling.  The  navigation  of  t\:  "iver  had 
been  very  slow,  since  we  had  advanced  but  ab^  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  miles  in  six  days ;  and  it  threatened  to  be- 
come still  more  tedious  on  account  of  the  increasing  shal- 
lowness of  the  water.  Our  provisions  were  not  sufficient 
to  support  so  large  a  party ;  and  the  country  being  desti- 
tute of  animals,  afforded  us  no  supply.  The  only  game 
killed  from  *he  time  that  the  party  left  the  fort  were  two 
ducks.  Our  guide  further  informed  us,  that  if  we  conti- 
nued to  ascend  the  St.  Peter  in  canoes,  we  should  lose  much 
precious  time,  arrive  on  Red  River  after  the  buffalo  had 
left  it,  and  find  it,  probably,  impossible  to  reach  the  head 
of  Lake  Superior  before  the  winter  season  had  com- 
menced ;  in  which  case  we  should  be  compelled  to  winter 
somewhere  west  of  the  lakes.  As  this  comported  neither 
with  Major  Long's  wishes,  nor  with  the  instructions  which 
he  had  received  from  the  War  Department,  it  induced  him 
to  relinquish  the  plan  of  ascending  in  canoes,  and  to  send 
back  nine  soldiers,  retaining  but  twelve  men  as  a  guard, 
which  in  the  present  dispersed  state  of  the  Indians  pro- 
mised sufficient  protection.  By  proceeding  all  in  one  party 
on  land,  much  time  would  necessarily  be  saved,  and  the 
bends  of  the  river  need  not  be  followed  Although  this 
plan  did  not  afford  us  as  good  a  prospect  of  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  the  nature  of  the  country  as  the  mode  we 
had  heretofore  followed,  yet  in  the  present  state  of  our  af- 
fairs it  was  judged  to  be  the  only  one  that  could  be  adopt- 
ed with  prudence ;  and  as  this  modification  in  our  manner 
of  travelling  required  a  corresponding  change  in  the  ar- 
rangement of  our  baggage,  we  proceeded  a  few  miles 
higher  up,  to  a  fine  prairie,  where  we  found  good  pasture 


&OURCfi    OV    ST.    P£T£B's    BIVER. 


337 


for  our  horses.  The  spot,  upon  which  we  encamped, 
has  received  the  name  of  the  Crescent,  from  a  beautiful 
bend  which  the  river  makes  at  this  place.  The  two  par- 
ties having  united  here,  a  day  was  spent  in  drying  the 
baggage,  and  separating  the  damaged  provisions  from  those 
that  were  still  fit  for  use.  The  acetous  fermentation  hav- 
ing commenced  in  our  biscuit,  such  parts  of  it  as  were  not 
too  much  injured  were  roasted  over  the  fire. 

As  this  was  the  highest  spot  on  the  St  Peter  which  we 
reached  in  canoes,  it  may  be  well  to  recapitulate  the  ge- 
neral characters  of  this  stream,  as  we  observed  it  from 
its  mouth  to  the  Crescent,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  by  water. 

The  breadth  of  the  river  varies  from  sixty  to  eighty 
yards,  but  averages  about  seventy ;  its  depth  is  such  that  it 
cannot  be  forded  for  about  forty-five  miles  from  its  mouth. 
At  Fort  St.  Anthony  the  St  Peter  is  said  to  be  about  six- 
teen feet  deep.  The  depth  diminished  rapidly  as  we  pro- 
ceeded up  the  river,  and  in  some  places  our  canoes  had 
barely  water  enor.gh  to  float  them ;  yet  the  river  was  not 
considered  very  low  at  that  season.  In  times  of  floods  it 
can  be  ascended  much  higher,  without  inconvenience,  by 
loaded  canoes.  The  current,  which  is  almost  imperceptible 
at  Fort  St  Anthony,  increases,  and  in  some  places  is  quite 
rapid ;  during  the  three  last  days  it  was  found  to  average 
about  one  mile  and  a  half  an  hour.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
chiefly  sand,  arising  from  the  destruction  of  the  sandstone 
in  which  it  is  excavated.  The  banks  usually  rise  to  about 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet,  and  are  chiefly,  if  not  altogether, 
composed  of  sandstone.  On  the  last  day,  we  saw  a  bluff 
that  rises  to  sixty  or  eighty  feet ;  it  consists  of  white 
sandstone,  and  is  called  the  white  rock;  limestone  is, 
however,  found  iii  the  country  in  various  places.  The  gra- 

VoL.  I.  43 


338 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


m 


niti*    joulders,  which  appear  to  be  quite  deficient  in  t)ie 
lower  part  of  the  river^  are  found  tolerably  abundant  after 
passing  the  village  of  Taoapa.  In  some  cases  they  assume  a 
very  large  size ;  one  of  them  was  of  an  elliptical  form ;  it 
was  twelve  yards  in  periphery,  and  five  feet  high ;  it  is 
evidently  out  of  place,  and  forms  a  conspicuous  object  in  the 
prar  ;ie.  The  designs  made  upon  it  by  the  Indians,  consisting 
of  thick  lines  divided  by  intermediate  dots,  prove  that  it 
was  with  them  an  object  of  veneration.  There  are  likewise 
amphibolic  boulders  scattered  over  the  country.    The  bed 
of  the  river  presents  but  few  islands  below  the  rapids,  but 
above  these  it  is  checkered  with  numerous  small  sandy 
islands,  which  change  the  direction  of  the  channel,  and 
contribute  to  the  rapidity  of  the  current.     The  largest 
of  these  islands  does  not  exceed  three  hundred  yards  in 
length,  and  thirty  in  breadth.     The  river  is  a  very  mean- 
dering one ;  so  much  so,  that  the  canoes  were  seldom  steer- 
ed for  five  minutes  at  a  time  in  the  same  direction.     The 
courses  of  the  river  varied  from  south-west  to  north-east, 
and  in  some  cases  even  were  south-east     The  situation  of 
Camp  Crescent  was  estimated,  by  Mr.  Colhoun,  from  ob- 
servations taken  under  unfavourable  circumstances,  to  be 
about  latitude  44°  21'  27"  north,  longitude  94°  15'  west; 
so  that,  during  our  progress  up  the  St  Peter,  we  had  made 
but  65'  of  westing,  and  32'  22"  of  southing.  The  river  re- 
ceives in  this  extent  no  tributary  of  any  importance ;  a  few 
small  rivulets,  not  exceeding  ten  or  twelve  in  number,  enter 
it  occasionally  from  the  right  or  left  bank.     Those  only 
which  deserve  any  mention  are.  Elk,  which  enters  from 
the  right  bank,  about  twenty  miles  above  the  fort ;  and  the 
small  rivulet  which  comes  in  from  the  left  bank  about 
forty  miles  above  the  fort,  and  which  is  probably  the  same 
as  Carver's  river  j  at  aboyt  twenty-five  miles  below  the 


SOURCS   OF  ST.    PITEB'il   RIVER. 


3dd 


Crescent,  a  shallow  stream  six  yards  wide  enters  from  the 
left  bank. 

In  our  description  of  the  observations  recorded  by  the 
party  in  the  canoes,  we  have  included  those  made  upon 
the  nature  of  the  river,  &c.  by  the  land  party,  and  it  may 
suffice  to  mention  that  the  difficulties  which  they  experi- 
enced were  very  great,  owin'4,  to  the  nature  of  the  country 
over  which  they  travelled.  At  times  it  was  so  marshy,  that 
they  could  not  proceed  without  niu^h  danger  to  themselves 
and  their  horses;  and  in  one  or  two  instances,  the  ground 
was  so  soft,  that  they  were  obliged  to  construct  causeways 
or  bridges,  to  enable  their  horses  to  pass  over  it.     The  fo- 
rests which  <hey  traversed,  consisted  chiefly  of  maple, 
white  walnut,  hickory,  oak,  elm,  ash,  linden,  (Tilia  Ameri- 
cana,} interspersed  with  grape-vines,  &c.     The  absence  of 
the  black  walnut  on  the  St.  Peter,  and  near  Fort  St.  An- 
thony, was  particularly  observed.  The  rosin  plant  was  not 
seen  after  leaving  Prairie  du  Chien.  The  yellow  raspberry 
was  abundant  in  many  places  and  ripe  at  the  time  the 
party  passed  through  the  forests.    The  course  of  the  party 
was  generally  in  the  valley  of  the  St  Peter,  not  far  from, 
and  frequently  in  sight  of,  the  river,  which  offered  them 
some  fine  water  scenery,  presenting,  however,  a  great  de- 
gree of  sameness ;  its  principal  defect  is  th^  w.  *^t  of  ob- 
jects to  animate  the  scenes ;  no  buffalo  ranging  across  the 
prairie,  no  deer  starting  through  the  forests,  no  birds  in- 
terrupting the  solemn  stillness  which  uniformly  reigns 
over  the  country ;  the  St.  Peter  rolls  in  silence  its  waters 
to  the  Mississippi ;  where  game  is  scarce,  the  Indian  of 
course  finds  no  inducement  to  hunt,  and  hence  the  party 
frequently  travelled  for  whole  days,  without  seeing  a  livr 
ing  object  of  any  kind.  Tb«s  appeared,  however,  to  be  the 
track  of  Indians  going  out  on  their  hunts,  and  accordingly 


• 


'^40 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


traces  were  occasionally  observed  upon  trees.  In  such  places 
the  trees  were  generally  barked  to  a  proper  height  '^  in  one  in- 
stance, four  adjoining  trees  bore  the  representation  of  an  In- 
dian with  wings,  painted  with  red  earth ;  a  number  of  trans- 
verse lines  were  also  drawn  across  the  tree.  This  design  was 
intendea  lo  convey  the  information  that  the  Redv/ing  chief 
had  passed  in  that  direction  with  a  party,  luc  strength  of 
which  was  designated  by  the  number  of  transverse  streaks. 
From  the  numerous  tumuli  observed  along  the  river,  they 
were  confirmed  in  the  belief,  that  this  scarcity  of  game  has 
not  alway }  prevailed  in  this  part  of  the  country,  but  that 
this  stream  was  once  inhabited  by  as  extensive  a  popula- 
tion as  can  be  supported  by  game  alone,  in  the  most  fa- 
voured regions. 

On  the  15th  of  July,  the  party,  reduced  in  number  to 
twenty  four,  left  the  Crescent  They  were  provided  with 
twenty-one  horses,  two  of  which  were  disabled.  Nine  were 
allotted  to  the  officers  and  gentlemen  of  the  party ;  the  re- 
maining ten  being  required  as  pack-horses  to  c  ivey  the 
provisions  and  baggage,  the  soldiers  were  all  obliged  to 
walk;  whi<  ,  however,  as  the  countiy  was  fine  prairie,  and 
the  days'  n  >rch  short,  was  not  considered  a  very  hard  duty. 
We  proceeded  across  some  fine  rolling  prairies,  in  a  course 
south  of  west,  for  about  nine  miles,  when  we  saw  the  re- 
mains of  Indian  habitations ;  they  were  deserted.  Upon  a 
scauold,  raised  eight/3en  feet  above  the  ground,  and  situa- 
ted upon  an  elevated  part  of  the  prairie,  the  putrefying 
carcass  of  aii  Indian  lay  exposed  to  view.  It  had  not  been 
enclosed  in  a  box,  but  merely  siirouded  in  a  blanket, 
which  the  wind  and  atmospheric  influence  had  reduced  to 
tatters.  Fifteen  horizontal  black  marks,  drawn  across  one 
of  the  posts  that  supported  the  scafibld,  designated,  as  we 
were  informed  by  Renville,  that  as  many  scalps  had  been 


m 


SOURCE   OP  ST.   PETER'S  RIVER. 


341 


ofiered  in  sacrifice  to  the  deceased,  by  those  who  danced 
at  the  funeral. 

Our  guides  told  us,  that  the  mouth  of  the  Terre  Bleue 
River  was  about  six  leagues  lo  the  south-east  of  this  spot 
This  is  the  principal  tributary  of  the  St.  Peter,  and  is  said 
to  furnish  about  two-thirds  as  much  water  as  the  main 
branch  of  the  river  which  retains  the  name  of  St  Peter.  It 
enters  from  the  right  bank,  and  rises  in  the  "  Coteau  des 
Prairies,*'  a  highland  that  stretches  in  a  northerly  direction 
between  the  Missouri  and  the  St  Peter,  and  of  which  we 
shall  have  occasion  to  speak  hereafter.  Biy  the  Dacotas  it 
is  called  MiUti  usi  Watapa,  which  signifies  "  the  river 
where  blue  earth  is  gathered."  We  never  were  nearer  to 
this  river  than  at  this  place,  and  we  regretted  that  circum- 
stances prevented  our  visiting  it  in  order  to  acquire  some 
knowledge  of  its  character.  We  were  unsuccessful  in  our 
attempts  to  obtain  some  of  the  blue  earth  from  the  Indians, 
an  object  which  appeared  to  us  of  some  importance,  in  or- 
der to  determine  its  composition  by  analysis.  It  is  evi- 
dent that  this  is  the  same  thing  that  was  worked  by  le  Sueur 
at  the  close  of  the  17th  century,  for  a  ".opper  ore.  From 
its  colour,  we  are  inclined  to  consider  it  as  more  probably 
a  phosphate  of  iron ;  but  we  have  had  no  means  of  ascer- 
taining its  nature.  Our  guides  informed  us,  that  had  we 
proceeded  in  our  canoes  it  would  have  required  two  days 
to  reach  the  mouth  of  the  Blue  Earth  river,  on  account  of 
the  great  bend  which  the  river  makes  at  the  Crescert,  but 
by  the  route  which  we  pursued  we  avoided  the  bend.  It 
has  beeil'  stated,  that  the  locality  of  this  blue  earth,  s  well 
as  that  of  the  red  stone  used  for  pipes,  were  considered  as 
neutral  grounds,|^here  the  different  nations  of  Indians 
would  meet  and  coMect  these  substances  without  appre- 
hension of  being  attacked ;  but  we  have  not  heard  this  re- 


342 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


port  confirmed.  The  mouth  of  the  Blue  Earth  river  is  the 
chief  residence  of  a  tribe  of  the  Dacotas,  who  call  themselves 
the  Mi&k£ch&k6's^&,  and  who  are  generally  known  by  the 
traders  by  the  name  of  Sisitons.  They  are  a  warlike  and 
powerful  band,  and  at  that  time  were  considered  as  un- 
friendly to  the  Americans  on  account  of  the  government's 
having  arrested,  and  sent  to  St.  Louis  for  trial,  one  of  their 
tribe  who  had  killed  a  white  man.  It  was  chiefly  from 
them  that  hostilities  had  been  apprehended,  and  the  force 
which  we  had  taken  at  Fort  St  Anthony  was  intended  to 
protect  the  party  against  an  attack  from  them ;  but  in  order 
to  evince  a  friendly  disposition  on  the  part  of  our  govern- 
ment, Major  Taliaferro  had  intended  to  hold  a  council  with 
them  at  the  same  time.  The  news  of  their  being  dispersed 
on  their  srmmer  hunts,  was  the  principal  reason  which  in- 
duced Major  Long  to  desist  from  his  intention  of  visiting 
the  mouth  of  the  Terre  Bleue,  and  which  determined  him 
to  order  back  part  of  our  escort 

In  the  evening,  the  party  encamped  on  the  bank  of  a 
small  pool,  which  forms  one  of  a  group  of  ponds,  dignified 
with  the  appellation  of  the  Swan  Lakes,  on  account  of  the 
abundance  of  these  birds  said  to  exist  in  their  neighbour- 
hood. The  Indian  name  is  M&iih&  tknki  6td  mdnd&,  which 
signifies  the  lake  of  the  many  large  birds.  Observations 
were  made  by  Mr.  Colhoun  to  determine  the  longitude  of 
this  place ;  although  taken  at  a  time  when  the  sun  was  very 
low,  they  served  to  correct  the  observations  made  at  the 
Crescent  These  lakes  are  more  properly  marshes,  the 
quantity  of  water  in  them  varying  according  to  ^e  sea- 
sons. We  had  passed  several  of  them  during  the  day ;  in 
one  of  these  marshes  our  pack-horses||fe^re  several  times 
exposed  to  much  difficulty ;  and  the  mi^  that  carried  the 
biscuit  having  stumbled;  part  of  our  provisions  were  wet 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETER*S   RIVER. 


343 


and  damaged.   Pro'^jeeding  the  next  day  on  our  course,  we 
struck  the  St.  Peter  about  noon,  and  found  its  current 
very  rapid,  but  its  size  reduced  to  nearly  one-half  of  that 
which  it  presented  at  the  Crescent.    This  confirmed  the 
report  of  our  guides,  that  the  Terre  Bleue  almost  equals 
the  St.  Peter  in  the  quantity  of  its  waters.     We  had  been 
able  to  trace  the  course  of  the  river  during  the  morn- 
ing, by  the  line  of  woods  which  skirts  it,  and  by  the  bluffs 
which  border  upon  its  right  bank,  rising  to  a  height  of 
from  sixty  to  eighty  feet ;  on  the  left  bank,  the  bluffs  are 
neither  so  high,  nor  so  abrupt    The  country,  however,  al- 
most every  where  discovers  its  horizontal  stratification  by 
the  steep  acclivities  which  it  forms  even  in  the  prairies ; 
the  country  presenting  rather  the  appearance  of  steppes 
than  of  the  rounded  swells  which  generally  characterize 
prairie  land.     At  a  small  distance  from  our  course,  we  ob- 
served horizontal  ledges  of  rock,  which  we  were  inclined 
to  consider  as  the  limestone  that  overlays  the  sandstone. 
Animals  of  every  kind  still  continued  very  scarce.  A  gar- 
ter-snake was  killed  nqar  Swan  Lake,  upon  which  our 
guides  took  occasion  to  inform  us  that  the  rattlesnake  had 
sometimes  been  found  near  these  lakes,  but  never  to  the 
north  of  them ;  this  appearing  to  be  their  northernmost 
limit  in  this  direction.    The  botany  of  the  country  was 
diversified  by  the  reappearance  of  the  Gerardria,  a  plant 
which  we  had  not  seen  since  leaving  Chicago.  Near  Swan 
Lake  two  elevations  were  observed,  which  appeared  to  be 
•artificial  tumuli.     Some  depressions  were  also  seen,  and 
these  were  by  Ren\ille  called  forts,  but  by  whom  they 
were  scooped  our.  if  indeed  they  be  artificial,  he  could  not 
inform  us. 

We  crossed  tlie  St.  Peter,  at  noon,  immediately  above  a 
ripple ;  our  horses  sank  to  their  girths  in  the  water ;  one 


344 


JEXPEPITION   TO   TH£ 


mile  further,  we  passed  a  small  stream  about  fifteen  yards 
wide,  and  eighteen  inches  deep,  having  a  white  sandy  bot- 
tom; it  is  designated  by  the  name  of  the  Riviere  aux 
Liards,  (Cottonwood,*)  from  the  abundance  of  this  tree 
on  its  banks ;  by  the  Indians  it  is  called  W&rh6j6  Wa- 
tapa.  A  bloody  fray  is  stated  to  have  occurred  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Aux  Liards  and  St.  Peter ;  it  arose  between  two 
tribes  of  Sioux,  who  met  there  with  traders.  The  latter 
having  furnished  them  with  liquor,  the  Indians  drank  to  in- 
toxication, quarrelled  among  themselves,  and  killed  seven 
of  their  number.  In  travelling  through  an  Indian  country, 
many  places  are  pointed  out  that  have  acquired  a  similar 
melancholy  celebrity,  and  that  tend  to  confirm  the  travel- 
ler in  the  conviction  of  the  heavy  responsibility  which  at- 
taches to  those  who  have  introduced,  and  still  persist  in 
carrying,  liquor  among  the  Indians. 

Our  journey  during  the  afternoon  was  continued  along 
the  valley  of  the  St.  Peter,  which  was  observed  to  be  from 
one  to  one  ^nd  a  half  mile  wide.  The  adjacent  prairie  is 
elevated  about  eighty  feet  above  tthe  level  of  the  river.  A 
feature  which  struck  us  was  the  abundance  of  fragments  of 
primitive  rocks  which  were  strewed  in  this  valley.  They 
were  for  the  most  part  deeply  imbedded  in  the  ground,  and 
bore  but  few  traces  of  attrition ;  their  bulk  was  very  large. 
For  a  while  we  doubted  whether  we  were  not  treading 
upon  the  crest  of  a  formation  of  primitive  rocks,  which 
pierced  through  the  superincumbent  formations,  but  a  close 
ob&<^rvation  evinced  such  a  confusion  and  diversity  in  the 
nature  of  the  primitive  blocks,  as  well  as  such  signs  of  fric- 
tion, as  satisfied  us  that  these  were  out  of  place,  still  they 
appeared  to  warrant  the  geologist  in  his  prediction,  that 


•  Popiihis  angulata. 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  peteb's  Riy:5R. 


345 


the  party  was  approaching  to  a  primitive  formation,  and 
that  certainly  the  valley  of  the  St.  Peter  had  been  one  of 
the  channels  through  which  the  primitive  boulders  had 
been  removed  from  their  original  site.  This  assertion 
was  fully  substantiated  two  days  afterwards  by  the  disco- 
covery  of  the  primitive  rocks  in  mtu.  A  very  considera- 
ble swell  between  the  river  and  the  right  bank  of  the  val- 
ley, was  supposed  to  be  formed  by  the  primitive  rocks 
rising  to  a  greater  level  than  usual.  If  it  be  occasion- 
ed by  an  accumulation  of  fragments  and  boulders,  as  the 
nature  of  its  surface  might  lead  to  believe,  it  is  a  very  in- 
teresting feature  in  the  valley. 

We  passed  soon  after  two  Indian  lodges,  in  one  of  which 
was  the  chief  Wamendetanka,  (War  Eagle,)  generally 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Black  Dog.  He  rules  over  the 
small  village  of  Oanoska,  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the 
St  Peter.  He  is  not  a  man  of  note,  neither  is  he  acknow- 
ledged as  an  independent  chief,  but  being  the  head  of  an 
extensive  family,  he  separated  from  his  tribe  some  years 
ago;  he  leads  about  forty  warrior «,.  We  stopped  but  a 
short  time  at  his  lodge,  to  exchange  a  few  words  with  him ; 
we  admired  much  the  appearance  of  his  sons  and  daugh- 
ters, who  are  tall,  graceful,  and  well-formed.  He  is  about 
fifty  years  of  age,  and  has  much  dignity  in  his  appearance. 

The  journey  of  the  18th  of  July,  being  across  the  prairie, 
offered  but  little  interest.  The  monotony  of  a  prairie  coun- 
try 'always  impresses  the  traveller  with  a  melancholy, 
which  the  sight  of  water,  woods,  &c.  cannot  fail  to  remove. 
During  that  day  we  enjoyed  no  view  of  the  river,  and  the 
great  scarcity  of  springs,  and  wood  for  cooking,  made  the 
travelling  uncomfortable ;  to  these  we  must  add  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  94°,  exhibited  by  the  thermometer  when  in  the 
shade,  and  protected  against  all  radiation  of  heat   But  th« 

Vol.  I.  44 


346 


£XP£DITION  TO  THJB 


greatest  annoyance,  which  we  had  to  encounter,  was  the 
mosquetoe,  which  arose  in  such  swarms,  as  to  prove  a 
more  serious  evil  than  can  be  imagined  by  those  who  have 
not  experienced  it  We  never  were  tormented  at  any  pe- 
riod of  our  journey,  more  than  when  travelling  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  St.  Peter.  The  mosquetoes  geneiidly  rose  all 
of  a  sudden  about  the  setting  of  the  sun.  Their  appearance 
WIS  so  instantaneous,  that  we  had  no  time  to  prepare  our- 
selves against  them ;  whenever  we  had  the  good  fortune  to 
encamp  previous  to  their  sallying  from  their  hiding  places, 
our  great  object  was  to  complete  our  evening  meal,  before 
they  commenced  their  attack,  for  this  we  found  ourselves 
unable  to  resist;  and  we  have  not  unfrequently  been  so 
much  annoyed  by  these  insects,  as  to  be  obliged  to  relin- 
quish an  unfinished  supper,  or  to  throw  away  a  cup  of  tea, 
which  we  could  not  enjoy,  while  stung  on  all  sides  by 
countless  numbers  of  mosquetoes.  When  a  high  wind  re- 
duced their  numbers,  we  found  some  relief  from  remain* 
ing  in  a  dense  cloud  of  smoke;  but  even  this  proved  of  no 
avail,  when,  from  the  calmness  or  heat  of  the  atmosphere, 
their  numbers  were  undiminished.  In  such  cases,  our  only 
alternative  was  to  endure  their  stings,  or  to  smother  under 
the  weight  of  a  blanket  in  which  we  wrapped  ourselves 
up,  covering  our  faces,  hands,  &c.  To  protect  our  feet  and 
legs,  we  were  obliged  to  lie  with  our  boots  on.  The  an- 
noyance continued  until  sometime  after  sunrise,  when  the 
increasing  heat  of  the  day,  drove  them  back  into  their  re- 
cesses. The  sleepless  nights  which  we  frequently  passed, 
when  exposed  to  this  torment,  rendered  this  part  of  our 
journey  the  most  fatiguing.  Our  horses  fared  even  worse, 
for  they  were  exposed  like  us,  during  the  night,  to  the 
Bting  of  the  mosquetoe,  and  during  the  day  the  big  horse- 
fly provod  equally  noxious. 


SODRCE   OF   ST.   PETER's  RIVEB. 


347 


^  The  soil  of  the  prairies  is  not  uniform  in  quality ;  in  some 
instances  it  was  remarkably  fine,  and  of  an  intense  black  co> 
lour ;  the  grass,  consequently,  grew  to  a  considerable  size, 
was  luxuriant,  and  of  a  rich  green  hue.  In  other  parts  the 
soil  is  sandy,  grayish,  and  appears  to  be  of  an  inferior  quali- 
ty; its  produce  then  presents  a  similar  inferiority;  the 
blades  of  grass  are  scattered,  short,  of  a  yellowish  and 
sickly  aspect.  The  earth  appears  dry,  and  scorched  with 
the  heat  of  the  sun. 

The  party  had  frequent  opportunities  of  remarking  the 
difficulty  which  exists,  to  determine  with  accuracy  the 
nature  or  size  of  objects  seen  at  a  distance.  Sand-hill  cranes, 
seen  on  the  prairie,  were  by  some  of  the  company  mistaken 
for  elks. 

Among  the  birds  observed  on  the  prairie,  besides  the  sand- 
hill  crane,  are  the  reed-bird,  black-bird,*  yellow-headed 
black-bird,t  the  black-breasted  tern  ;t  the  last  of  which  was 
very  abundant.  Mr.  Say  shot  the  female  of  the  Mergus  cucul- 
latus,  and  a  blue-winged  teal.  Among  the  reptiles,  besides 
the  common  garter-snake,§  there  was  one  with  lateral  red 
spots.  II  A  coluber,  like  the  melanoleucus,  but  spotted,  and 
similar  to  that  found  on  the  Missouri,  was  killed  on  these 
prairies.  In  several  of  the  marshes,  the  huts  of  the  musk- 
rat  were  found  very  abundant  T^e  herbarium  was  en- 
riched by  the  addition  of  a  beautiful  specimen  of  the  Li* 
Hum  Philadelphicum,  which  was  still  seen  flowering,  though 
it  had  nearly  ceased  to  bloom.  Another  great  ornament 
of  the  prairies  is  the  Lilium  Superbum.  The  Gerardria  was 
still  occasionally  seen.  This  plant  is,  as  we  were  inform- 
ed, considered  by  the  Indians  to  be  a  specific  against  the 


*  Oriolus,  [Zanthornus,  Cuvier,]  phoeniceus. 
f  Oriolus,  [Zanthornus,  Cuvier,]  icterocephalus. 
%  Coluber  ordinatus.  ||  Coluber  parietalis. 


4  Sterna. 


348 


EXPEDITION    TO  THB 


bite  of  the  rattlesnake ;  the  root  is  scraped  and  the  scrap- 
ings applied  to  the  wound  ;  it  is  said  that  if  used  upon  a 
recent  wound,  a  single  application  will  suffice.  The  boul- 
ders, which  arc  so  common  in  the  valley  of  the  St.  Peter, 
are  but  seldom  seen  on  the  prairies. 

After  proceeding  another  half  day  on  the  prairie,  the 
pai'ty  found  itself  on  the  banks  of  the  Ch&nshiydpi  wa- 
tapa,  or  the  stream  of  the  "  tree  painted  red."  This  is  a 
beautiful  nvulet,  which  was  about  eight  yards  wide  where 
we  crossed  it  It  runs  in  .>^i  wide  and  romantic  valley.  The 
bluffs  which  rise  o  *j  Hes,  are  formed  of  a  fine  white 
sandstone.  We  stop^  J  for  a  few  moments  on  the  edge  of 
the  bank,  previous  to  descenu..<g  into  the  i  alley,  to  enjoy 
the  beautiful  and  refreshing  scenery  which  offered  itself  to 
our  view,  and  which  formed  a  pleasing  contrast  with  the 
burned  and  blasted  appearance  of  the  prairie.  The  junc- 
tion of  the  valley  of  the  St.  Peter  with  that  of  its  tribu- 
tary, rbout  two  miles  below  the  place  where  we  stood,  oc- 
casioned an  expansion  of  both  valleys  at  that  spot  The 
beautiful  and  diversified  vegetation,  springing  luxuriantly 
on  the  banks  of  both  streams,  the  rapid  current  of  the  wa- 
ters rushing  to  one  common  point,  formed  a  landscape, 
which,  at  that  time,  appeared  to  us  as  smiling  and  as  beau- 
tiful as  any  we  had  qver  beheld.  But  it  is  probable  that 
much  of  its  charms  arose  from  the  contrast  which  it  pre- 
sented, with  the  wearisome  views  of  the  boundless  prairies. 
Perhaps,  also,  we  found  ourselves  in  better  spirits  to  enjoy 
the  scenery,  from  perceiving,  near  these  banks,  the  first 
trace  of  the  buffalo,  whence  we  drew  prospects  of  a  speedy 
change  in  our  fare,  together  with  hopes  of  soon  sharing 
in  the  sports  of  an  active  and  interesting  chase.  Though 
narrow,  the  Redwood,  whose  course  is  a  long  one,  has  its 
sources  in  the  Goteau  des  Prairies.    Red  pipestone  is  said 


SOURCE    or    ST.   PETER'S   RIVER. 


349 


to  exist  on  its  banks,  at  three  days'  journey  from  its 
source. 

At  the  confluence  of  these  two  valleys,  a  very  interest- 
ing fragment  of  rock  was  obsei'ved ;  it  was  evidently  out 
of  place ;  its  mass  was  enormous ;  it  was  of  an  irregular  he- 
mispherical form,  about  forty  or  fifty  feet  in  circu^^iference; 
it  had  been  cjeft,  as  we  thought,  by  lightning.  The  rock 
was  blackened,  and  a  few  bushes  and  trees  near  it,  bore 
signs  of  having  been  on  fire.  The  conflagration  does  not 
appear  to  have  spread  to  a  distance ;  and  from  its  situation, 
the  fire  could  scarcely  have  been  made  by  a  traveller.  We 
searched  in  vain,  during  the  short  time  thflt  we  stopped  near 
it,  for  traces  of  fusion  upon  the  rock.  This  mass  is  granitic, 
and  presents  very  distinctly  the  appearance  of  a  formation 
in  concentric  shales.  Rocks  were  observed  at  some  distance 
which,  from  their  v/hite  colour,  were  presumed  to  be  sand- 
stone. Above  the  junction  of  the  rivulet  with  the  St  Pe- 
ter, a  rapid  occurs  in  the  river,  called  Patterson's  rapid. 
We  were  too  far  to  see  it,  but  it  is  not  very  considerable. 
We  were,  from  observations  made  higher  up  on  the  river, 
induced  to  consider  the  rocks  which  occasion  it,  as  pri- 
mitive. 

On  the  evening  of  the  18th  of  July,  we  encamped  on 
the  banks  of  the  river.  When  descending  into  the  valley 
from  the  prairie,  with  a  view  to  select  a  suitable  spot  for 
our  evening's  camp,  our  attention  was  suddenly  called  to 
the  new  features  which  it  displayed.  High  rocks  of  a 
rugged  aspect  arose  in  an  insulated  manner  in  the  midst  of 
the  widened  valley,  through  which  the  St  Peter  winds  its 
way.  We  improved  the  rest  of  the  afternoon  in  examin- 
ing them,  and  experienced  no  little  satisfaction  in  finding 
them  to  be  primitive  rocks  in  situ.  The  pleasure  we  ex- 
perienced sprang  not  from  the  mere  associations  of  home. 


350 


SXFEOITION   TO  T5E 


connected  with  the  view  of  a  primitive  formation  which 
we  had  not  seen  since  the  first  five  days  of  our  journey ; 
but  it  resulted  also  in  a  great  measure  from  the  certainty 
that  we  had  at  last  arrived  at  what  we  had  long  been  look- 
ing for  in  vain.  We  had  traced  those  scattering  boulders, 
which  lay  insulated  in  the  prairies,  from  the  banks  of  the 
Muskingum  to  this  place.  We  had  seen  them  gradually 
increasing  in  size  and  number,  and  presenting  fewer  signs 
of  attrition,  as  we  advanced  further  on  our  journey.  Two 
days  before,  their  number,  size,  and  features,  had  induced 
the  geologist  of  the  party  to  predict  our  speedy  approach 
to  the  primitive '  formations,  and  it  was  a  pleasing  confir- 
mation of  his  opinions  to  find  that  these  rocks  had  really 
been  seen  in  sitUy  within  thirty  miles,  in  a  straight  line,  of 
the  place  where  he  had  made  this  assertion.  The  charac- 
ter of  these  rocks  was  examined  with  care,  and  found  very 
curious.  It  seemed  as  if  four  simple  minerals,  quartz,  feld- 
spar, mica,  and  amphibole,  had  united  here  to  produce  al- 
most all  the  varieties  of  combination  which  can  arise  from 
the  association  of  two  or  more  of  these  minerals ;  and  these 
combinations  were  in  such  immediate  contact,  that  the 
same  fragment  might,  as  we  viewed  one  or  the  other 
end  of  it,  be  referred  to  different  rocks ;  while  in  some 
places  granite  was  seen  perfectly  well  characterized,  va- 
rying from  the  fine  to  the  coarse-grained ;  in  others,  a 
gneiss,  mica  slate,  greisen,  (quartz  and  mica,)  compact 
feldspar,  (Weisstein  of  Werner,)  sienite,  greenstone,  and 
the  sienite  with  addition  of  quartz,  forming  the  amphibolic 
granite  of  D'Aubuisson,  were  equally  well  characterized. 
The  only  rock  composed  by  the  union  of  two  of  these 
principles  which  we  did  not  observe,  but  which  may  per- 
haps exist  there,  is  the  graphic  granite,  (Pegmatite,  Haiiy.) 
These  rocks  are  not  very  extensive ;  the  circumference 


SOURCE   OF   ST.    PETER'S   RIVER. 


881 


of  the  largest  probably  does  not  exceed  one  quarter  of 
a  mile ;  they  rise  to  about  thirty -five  feet  above  the  level 
of  t^e  water.  Their  form  is  irregular ;  their  aspect  rug- 
ged and  barren  compared  with  the  fertile  bottom  of  the 
valley ;  their  general  colour  is  of  a  dark  gray  ;  they  appear 
to  be  the  summit  or  crest  of  primitive  rocks  which  under- 
lay this  valley,  and  which  protrude  at  this  place  through 
the  superior  strata.  As  the  adjoining  prairies  are  elevated 
about  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  these  primi- 
tive rocks  are  observable  only  in  the  valley ;  they  doubt- 
less constituted  at  one  time  a  continuous  ridge,  but  have 
been  divided  into  insulated  masses  by  the  corroding  action 
of  the  stream,  whose  very  circuitous  bed  winds  between 
them.  They  extend  upon  a  distance  of  about  six  miles  in 
the  direction  of  the  valley.  After  having  examined  al- 
most every  one  of  these  masses,  we  feel  unwilling  to  de- 
cide with  certainty,  which  of  the  primitive  combinations 
predominates;  for  the  passage  of  the  one  into  the  other  is 
more  constant  and  more  sudden  than  in  any  other  primi- 
tive formation  that  has  ever  come  under  our  notice.  In- 
deed we  know  of  none  with  which  to  compare  it,  except 
it  be  that  which  we  observed  at  a  subsequent  period  of  the 
expedition,  between  Lake  Winnepeek  and  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods ;  but  even  there  the  features  were  somewhat  dif- 
ferent, for  they  were  on  a  larger  scale.  The  passages,  which 
we  there  observed,  were  sometimes  to  be  traced  only  upon 
large  masses ;  whereas  on  the  St.  Peter,  it  would  have  been 
difficult  to  break  off  a  fragment  of  a  cubic  foot  in  size  pre- 
senting an  uniform  character  of  composition.  It  is,  how- 
ever, probable,  as  far  as  our  observations  extended,  that  gra- 
nite is  the  predominating  rock.  These  masses  bear  very  evi- 
dent signs  of  a  crystalline  origin,  but  the  process  must  have 
been  a  confused  one.    Tourmaline  is  found  disseminated 


35a 


SXPEDITION   TO   THS 


throughout  the  rock,  yet  in  no  great  abundance.  In  one 
or  two  spots  where  the  mass  assumed  a  more  slaty  appear* 
ance  than  in  other  places,  a  fuint  tendency  to  a  stra^fica* 
lion,  directed  from  north-north-east  to  south-south-west, 
with  a  dip  towards  the  south,  was  observed.  Viewing  the 
insulated  masses  from  the  prairie,  they  appeared  to  be  di- 
rected in  a  transverse  line  through  the  valley,  and  in  a 
north-easterly  course,  so  that  this  may  be  the  remains  of  a 
dike  which  existed  across  the  valley,  but  which  was  finally 
broken.  This  observation  was,  however,  a  partial  one, 
and  it  would  be  improper  to  attach  much  weight  to  it. 
When  calling  the  attention  of  our  guide  to  the  difference 
between  these  rocks  and  those  observed  below,  he  appear- 
ed to  have  been  aware  of  it  himself,  and  stated  that  rocks 
similar  to  these  extended  down  the  valley,  to  about  four 
miles  below  Redwood  rivulet ;  it  was  partly  from  this  cir- 
cumstance that  we  inferred  that  Patterson's  rapids  were 
probably  formed  by  a  bar  of  these  rocks  rising  across  the 
bed  of  the  river.  This  appeared  to  us  to  be  the  more  pro- 
bable from  the  circumstance  that  a  rapid,  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Little  Falls,  occurs  just  above  the  place  of  our 
encampment  of  the  18th,  and  that  it  is  occasioned  by  a 
ledge  of  granitic  rocks,  over  which  the  river  passes  at  this 
place.  In  the  examination  of  this  spot  two  points  appear- 
ed to  us  chiefly  to  deserve  our  attention,  in  order  to  avoid 
all  source  of  error ;  the  first  was  to  ascertain  that  the  rocks 
were  really  in  situ  ;  the  second,  that  they  were  primitive 
and  crystalline,  not  conglomerated  or  regenerated  rocks, 
such  as  are  sometimes  observed.  But  upon  these  two  points 
we  think  that  not  the  least  doubt  can  be  entertained.  The 
immense  mass  of  these  insulated  rocks,  the  uniform 
height  to  which  they  attain,  the  uniform  direction  in  which 
they  lie,  prove  them  to  be  in  place  ;  while  an  attentive  in- 


souBCi!  or  ST.  Peter's  river. 


353 


speciioii  of  their  nature  shows  them  to  be  really  crystal* 
line.  There  is  a  gradual  though  rapid  passage  of  the  gra- 
nite into  the  sienite,  which  proves  the;.!  to  be  of  contem- 
poraneous formation,  and  which  precludes  the  idea  that 
the  rock  is  formed  by  the  union  of  fragments  of  granite, 
sienite,  &c.  cemented  together. 

The  discovery  of  this  granitic  formation  here  appeared 
to  us  the  more  interesting,  that  its  small  extent  might 
easily  have  prevented  us  from  observing  it,  had  not  chance 
brought  us  to  the  river  at  that  place ;  for  if  we  had  been 
travelling  on  the  prairie,  within  half  a  mile  of  the  edge  of 
the  bank,  the  greater  height  of  the  bluff  would  have  con- 
cealed these  rocky  islands  from  our  view.  We  feel  there- 
fore unable  to  decide  whether  they  do  not  recur  at  some 
of  the  other  bends  of  the  river,  which  we  avoided ;  3iet  from 
the  character  of  the  stream  itself,  we  doubt  it;  for  we  find 
that  as  soon  as  these  rocks  protrude  into  the  valley,  they 
occasion  rapids  and  falls  in  the  river,  while  otherwise  its 
course  is  smooth.  Had  we  not  seen  the ''  Little  rapids,"  which 
we  passed  on  the  1 1th,  we  might  have  been  induced  to  con- 
sider them  as  resulting  from  the  appearance  at  the  surface  of 
primitive  rocks,  but  having  examined  with  care  the  sand- 
stone rocks,  by  which  they  are  produced,  and  having  as- 
certained that  no  other  rapids  are  found  in  the  St.  Peter, 
between  these  and  the  Patterson  falls,  we  are  induced  to 
believe  that  this  is  the  only  place  where  the  granite  may 
be  seen  in  situ.  In  attempting  to  connect  this  primitive 
formation  with  those  observed  elsewhere,  we  find  that  it 
lies  in  a  direction  about  west-south-west,  at  a  distance  pro- 
bably not  exceeding  eighty  miles,  of  the  "  granitic  and  horn- 
blende rocks,"  which  Mr.  Schoolcraft  states  as  having  seen, 
"  occasionally  rising  in  rugged  peaks  and  beds,"  on  the 

Vol.  I.  45 


3d4 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


Mississippi.*  We  feel,  however,  disposed  to  consider  all 
this  section  of  our  country  as  underlaid  with  this  granite, 
and  we  entertain  but  little  doubt  of  its  identity  with  the 
sienitic  granite,  observed  at  a  later  period  of  our  journey, 
and  which  we  first  struck  near  Fort  Alexander,  at  the 
mouth  of  Winnepeek  river. 

The  latitude  of  our  encampment  on  the  banks  of  the  St 
Peter,  that  evening,  was  determined  by  observations,  to  be 
44°  41'  26"  north.  The  varivition  of  the  compass  at  this 
place  was  12°  21'  20"  east 

From  the  interesting  features  which  the  valley  display- 
ed at  this  spot,  the  geologist  felt  desirous  that  the  party 
should  ascend  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  with  a  view  to 
examine  these  granitic  masses,  should  they  recur ;  but  this 
was  deemed  impracticable,  on  account  of  the  length  of 
time  which  would  be  consumed  in  following  the  bends  of 
the  river.  The  reports  which  we  had  previously  received 
of  the  abundance  of  game,  had  not  been  confirmed ;  we 
had,  on  the  contrary,  found  none  at  all,  and  our  stores  were 
wasting  away  too  fast  to  permit  any  delay.  It  was  then 
proposed  to  divide  the  party,  and  while  the  main  body 
proceeded  with  the  necessary  expedition  towards  the  trad- 
ing establishments  at  the  head  of  the  river,  to  allow  the 
geologist,  with  one  or  two  companions,  to  continue  his 
route  in  the  valley.  But  this  Major  Long  did  not  deem 
prudent,  for  in  the  present  dissatisfied  -lisposition  of  the 
Sisitons,  the  division  of  the  party  must  necessarily  expose 
it  to  be  cut  off  by  them,  should  they  fall  in  with  it.  The 
regret  which  this  occasioned  was,  however,  dissi^^ated,  on 
observing  tha*.  the  primitive  rocks  did  not  continue  long 
in  the  valley ;  for  having  bean  allowed  tc  travel  along  the 


♦  Schoolcraft's  Narrative,  ut  supra,  p.  288. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


855 


banks  of  the  river  for  half*  a  day,  Mr.  Keating  saw  the  last 
of  them,  at  about  four  miles  above  the  little  falls ;  and  he 
was  assured  by  his  guide  that  they  did  not  recur  for  a  con- 
siderable distance.  We  had,  nevertheless,  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  from  a  distance,  in  the  be'  of  the  river,  a  rocky 
island,  which  appeared  to  us  to  bear  the  character  of  the 
primitive  rocks  near  Patterson's  rapids.  Our  guides  in- 
sisted that  it  was  a  sandstone.  We  have  generally  found 
them  to  be  such  accurate  observers  of  natural  objects,  that 
we  wished  to  visit  the  rock,  and  see  how  far  their  reports 
could  be  depended  upon,  but  that  would  have  required  se- 
veral hours ;  a  waste  of  time  which  it  was  thought  the  ob- 
ject did  not  warrant  In  the  evening  we  again  observed 
the  priinitive  rocks  in  the  valley,  and  encamped  upon  one 
of  these  knolls ;  it  was  composed  of  a  rock  partaking  al- 
ternately of  the  charactei  .  f  micaslate  and  gneiss  which 
appeared  stratified  nearly  east  and  west  The  strata  being 
almost  vertical.  This  knoll  was  so  small,  that  we  could 
not  presume  from  the  direction  of  its  strata,  to  draw  con- 
clusions as  to  that  of  the  rock  in  general. 

The  occurrence  of  these  primitive  knobs  disturbs  the  cur- 
rent of  the  river,  and  renders  the  navigation  difficult  and  ha- 
zardous. Five  miles  below  the  encampment  of  the  1 9th,  there 
is  a  place  where  the  boats  and  their  loads  are  carried  for  the 
distance  t)f  a  mile;  from  which  circumstance  the  place  is 
called  the  Grand  Portage.  By  this  portage  the  canoes  avoid 
thirteen  rapids;  these  with  twenty-six  other  rapids,  con- 
stitute all  the  obstructions  to  the  navigation  of  the  river, 
from  its  source  to  its  mouth.  In  a  good  stage  of  the  waters, 
there  are,  he  wever,  but  two  portages,  of  which  this  is  one. 
Among  the  tributaries  passed  on  that  day,  only  one  de, 
serves  to  be  mentioned;  it  is  called  the  P^j6h&t4  Z6z^  Wa- 
tupan,  the  yellow  medicine.     It  is  about  the  same  size  as 


356 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


the  Redwood)  and  rises,  in  like  manner,  at  the  base  of  the 
Coieau  des  Prairies.  Nearly  opposite  to  it  a  small  stream 
falls  in ;  the  Indians  call  it  the  Chkikbi,  (that  hatches 
sparrowhawks^)  the  traders  term  it  UEau  de  Vie.  On 
our  map  we  have  retained  the  term  Epervier,  which,  be- 
ing in  use  among  some  of  the  traders,  and  intelligible  both 
to  French  and  English  travellers,  appears  likely  to  prevail. 
While  riding  across  the  prairie  that  day,  we  were  met 
by  two  Indians,  who  ran  towards  us  with  great  speed. 
They  proved  very  friendly  in  their  disposition,  and  in- 
formed us,  that  on  the  preceding  day,  they  had  killed  a 
buffalo  bull  in  that  vicinity,  and  that  the  Indians  on  Lake 
Travers  had  already  killed  many,  the  buffalo  being  un- 
usually abundant  that  season.  This  news  was  the  more  gra- 
tifying to  the  party,  that  they  had  been  for  the  last  few 
days  on  short  allowance.  Having  informed  the  Indians  of 
the  spot  where  we  proposed  to  encamp,  they  came  to  it  in 
the  evening  with  their  families,  and  pitched  their  tents  near 
ours;  they  then  offered  us  a  feast,  which  we  of  course  ac- 
cepted, and  at  which  we  partook  of  the  buffalo  meat,  that 
had  been  cut  into  long  and  thin  slices,  about  one-eighth  of 
an  inch  thick,  eight  inches  wide,  and  eighteen  long.  These 
had  been  jerked  in  the  sun,  and  were  subsequently  boiled 
without  salt,  and  served  out  to  us  in  wooden  dishes.  It 
was  tough  and  tasteless,  and  disappointed  those  gentlemen 
of  the  party  who  had  never  eaten  of  the  buffalo  meat,  and 
who  had  heard  it  highly  extolled;  this  disappointment 
arose,  however,  from  the  circumstance  of  its  being  jerked, 
instead  of  fresh  meat  What  remained  of  the  feast  was, 
according  to  the  Indian  usage,  our  property,  and  we  there- 
fore had  it  conveyed  to  our  tents.  The  feast  was  ushered 
in  with  the  usual  ceremonies  of  sliakiug  hands,  smoking, 
&c. 


T^ 


SOUBCE  OF  ST.   FETSR's  KIVEB. 


357 


The  St  Peter  dwindles  into  a  very  small  stream,  pro- 
bably not  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  wide  in  any 
part,  above  Patterson's  rapids.  It  is  fordable  every  where. 
The  valley  presents  a  fine  rich  soil,  rather  swampy  in 
places,  and  covered  with  high  grass  and  wild  rice ;  it  is 
often  woody.  Wherever  the  primitive  rocks  are  found, 
they  are  bare.  The  trees  consist  principally  of  cotton  wood 
and  ash.  In  the  prairies,  Mr.  Say  found  the  spotted  frog, 
(Rana  halecina  of  Kalm  and  Daudin,)  figured  by  Catesby. 
It  was  very  plentiful  near  the  marshes.  The  young  whip- 
poorwill  was  found  at  that  time,  nearly  strong  enough  to 
fly.  The  mosquetoes  increased  in  abundance  and  virulence 
as  we  advanced. 

A  short  day's  journey  brought  the  party  to  the  Lac  qui 
parkf  which  is  an  expansion  of  the  river  about  seven  and 
a  half  miles  long,  and  from  one  quarter  to  three  quarters 
of  a  mile  wide.  The  name  of  this  lake  is  a  translation  of 
the  Indian  appellation,  M£nd^  £  I,  but  whence  it  has  re- 
ceived it,  we  know  not.  We  have  not  been  able  to  disco- 
ver or  to  hear  of  any  remarkable  echo  in  its  vicinity, 
whith  might  have  given  rise  to  it  It  is  not,  we  believe,  an 
uncommon  name  for  Indians,  and  we  know  of  at  least  one 
river  tliat  has  a  somewhat  analogous  appellation ;  it  is  the 
Riviere  qui  appelle,  a  tributary  of  the  Assiniboin,  and 
whose  Indian  name  has  merely  been  translated  by  the  tra- 
ders. Previous  to  reaching  J  ake  qui  parle,  we  passed  two 
small  tributaries  of  the  St.  Peter,  on  the  right  bank ;,  one 
of  which  is  called  by  the  traders,  Beaver,  by  the  Indians, 
Watapan  intdp^,  which  signifies  the  "  river  at  the  head,'* 
as  they  consider  the  lake  to  be  the  head  of  the  St.  Peter. 
Six  miles  above  our  encampment  of  the  19th,  a  larger 
stream,  called  by  some  Chippewa  river,  but  by  the  Da- 
cotas  Mii  Wihkin  watapan,  the  river  of  the  spirit  banks, 


V .  B 


358 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


<K  ■ 


A&fit 


falls  in  from  t'ne  left  side.  The  Mea  Wahkan  is  saiti  tci 
take  its  rise  ne.**  the  h^ad  waters  of  Red  river,  witfi  which 
\t  interlocks.  On  Beaver  rivulet,  the  bank,  which  was  high 
and  steep,  was  found  to  consist  of  loose  white  sand.  Near 
this  bank  there  were  seven  or  eight  artificial  tumuli,  all 
placed  on  a  straight  line  except  one,  which  was  in  advance 
of  the  other.  On  the  two  largest,  which  were  fivR  feet  high, 
and  thirty  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  rf  lent  graves  of  a 
kind  now  much  used  by  the  Indians,  were  observed.  In 
these  the  corpse  is  deposited  in  a  very  shallow  excavation, 
or  more  frequently  upon  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and 
stakes  placed  over  it,  forming  a  sore  of  a  roof.  These  stakes 
are  very  necessary  to  protect  the  remains  of  tlic  dead 
against  the  rapacity  of  wolves,  who,  if  they  were  merely 
interred,  would  dl^:  them  up.  In  this  case,  notwithstanding 
the  great  strength  cf  the  stakes,  the  grave  had  been  broken 
open,  and  its  contents  scattered  over  the  ground.  The 
wolves  appear  to  be  very  abundant  in  these  prairies.  We 
"have  frequently  heard  them  barking  in  the  night,  and  oc- 
casionally seen  them  Two  young  wolves  were  seen  near 
Beaver  rivulet,  and  easily  caught  by  the  soldiers,  to  whom 
a  reward  was  offered  if  they  would  carry  tliem  alive  to 
Mackinaw ;  but  they  both  made  their  escape  during  the 
night  In  the  dull  monotony  of  a  jou  t  ^iy  across  the  pr?xiric, 
destitute  of  interest,  and  lininterrup  i/.  by  any  incident, 
the  capture  of  these  wolves  created  such  a  sensation  in  the 
party,  as  will  not  be  readily  conceived  by  those,  who  have 
not  experienced  how  eagerly  man  seizes  the  first  oppor- 
tunity of  being  relieved  from  his  own  thoughts,  when  he 
has  been  left  to  the  uninterrupted  exercise  of  tliem  for  a 
certain  length  ol  time. 

We  spent  half  a  ciay  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  qui  parle ; 
our  tents  »vere  pitched  on  an  eminence  near  the  lower  ex- 


r 


SOURCE    OP    ST.   PET,  T\  .;    UIVER. 


359 


tremitv  oi  iJ-.c  Isi-e,  commanding  an  extensive  prospect, 
adorned  with  this  beautiful  sheet  of  v,  ;:,ter.  The  rojnti') , 
;i8  we  advanced,  evidently  becai  ie  more  eicvated,  but  no 
hills  of  any  magnitude  were  visible  except  the  bluffs  of 
rivers  and  rivulets.  The  elevation  to  which  they  attain, 
frequently  equals,  and  sometimes  exceeds,  one  hundred  feet. 
The  precipices,  to  which  these  bluffs  give  rise,  are  the 
boundaries  of  extensive  and  undulated  plains,  destitute  of 
woods;  trees  are  only  seen  skirting  the  banks  of  the 
water-courses.  Above  the  lake  the  bluffs  diminish  in 
height ;  those  along  the  valley  of  the  St.  Peter  not  exceed- 
ing forty  feet ;  in  some  cases  they  disappear,  and  gentle 
slopes  blend  gradually  the  prairie  and  the  valley  of  the 
river.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  the  St  Peter  has  lost 
all  its  characters ;  it  is  a  rivulet  of  from  twenty  to  thirty 
feet  wide  ;  its  bed  is  very  much  obstructed  with  high  grass 
and  wild  rice ;  its  waters  are  almost  stagnant.  Five  leagues 
above  this,  a  brook  from  the  right  bank  joins  with  the  St 
Peter ;  this  is  called  the  Hri  W&hk&n,  or  Spirit  Mountain, 
from  the  name  of  a  hill  near  which  it  rises.  The  primitive 
rocks  are  again  seen  in  place,  scattered  here  and  there 
across  the  valley ;  one  of  these  wp.s  remaT-kable  for  the 
beauty  of  its  feldspar,  which  is  very  lamellar ;  it  has  an 
easy  cleavage,  and  is  intermixed  with  quartz,  giving  it  al- 
most the  appearance  of  a  graphic  granite.  As  we  advanced, 
the  rocks  assumed  a  more  decided  character,  and  were 
found  to  be  principally  either  a  common  or  a  sienitic  gra- 
nite. Besides  those  ia  place,  vast  numbers  of  fragments  of 
primitive  rocks,  presenting  little  or  no  alteration,  lie  scat- 
tered in  every  direction,  and  attest  that  this  has  been  the 
seat  of  a  great  destr^^ction.  An  Indian  family  were  met 
near  the  banks  of  the  river,  who  stated  that  they  had  de- 
scended it  in  order  to  ascertain  the  prospects  of  the  ensu- 


■m% 


'lM''tM% 


360 


EXPBDITia.J'  TO   THE 


Iff ''.'*' ^'' 

HhmI 

P 

ing  harvest  of  wild  rice,  and  informed  us  that  they  were 
very  promising ;  the  grain,  they  thought,  would  be  ripe 
in  the  middle  of  August ;  the  weather  was,  in  fact,  very 
favourable  to  its  growth,  the  temperature  having  kept  up 
for  the  last  few  days  at  near  90°.  We  were  likewise  in- 
formed by  them,  that  an  inroad  had  been  made  by  the 
lower  Sisitons  upon  the  lands  of  the  Sauks  on  the  Des 
Moines  river,  and  that,  not  meeting  with  their  enemies, 
they  had  attacked  the  lawas,  killed  a  number,  and  taken 
many  prisoners. 

It  is  interesting,  as  we  proceed,  to  find  that  the  same 
devotional  spirit  which  we  observed  below  still  exists. 
Many  rocks  are  used  as  consecrated  spots,  at  which  the 
Indian  pauses  to  offer  a  sacrifice  to  the  ruling  Spirits.  A 
very  large  block,  covered  with  circles,  crescents  and 
crosses,  designed  with  red  paint,  was  considered  sacred  to 
the  heavenly  bodies,  and  these  marks  were  held  to  be  de- 
signationo  of  the  su'^,  moon,  and  stars.  The  party  were  like- 
wise occasionally  gladdened  with  a  view  of  fresh  tracks  of 
the  buffalo. 

On  the  22d,  we  reached  anotlier,  and  the  last,  expansion 
of  the  river.  It  is  also  improperly  called  a  lake ;  by  the 
Indians  it  is  termed  E'ati\ktk4,  which  has  been  interpreted 
"Lac  des  Grosser  Roches,"  Big  Stone  Lake.  Our  view 
to  the  v/est  was  this  day  bounded  by  an  extensive  ridge  or 
swell  in  tiie  prairies,  known  by  the  name  of  the  "  Coteau 
des  Prairies."  It  is  distant  from  our  course  about  twenty 
or  thirty  miles ;  its  height  above  the  level  of  the  St.  Peter 
is  prob.il'y  not ;  hort  of  one  thousand  feet.  According  to 
the  best  iniariViatif;  i.  which  we  have  obtained,  this  ridge 
commences  ab'^ut  i'^e  49th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  and 
between  the  y8tii  and  99th  degreesof  west  longitude,  from 
Greenwich.  It  proceeds  in  a  direction  nearly  south-south- 


SOURCE   OP  ST    PETER'S  RIVER. 


361 


east,  passes  east  of  the  group  of  small  lakes  called  Devil 
Lake,  divides  the  tributaries  of  the  St  Peter  from  those  of 
the  Missouri,  and  extends  southerly  as  far  as  the  head  of 
the  Blue  Earth,  where  it  gradually  widens  and  sinks  to 
the  level  of  the  surrounding  country. 

A  second  ridge  or  Coteau  des  Prairies  is  said  to  run 
in  a  direction  nearly  parallel  to  that  which  we  have 
just  described.  It  commences  at  the  southern  bend  of 
Mouse  river,  near  the  4dth  parallel  of  latitude,  and  pro- 
eeeds,  in  a  course  nearly  south-east,  for  about  eighty  milcs^ 
when  it  turns  to  the  west  of  south,  and  continues  probably 
beyond  the  44th,  where  it  likewise  sinks  and  disappears. 
In  the  valley  between  these  two  ridges,  the  Riviere  de 
Jacques,  or  James  River,  runs  and  empties  itself  into  the 
Missouri  about  the  43d  degree  of  latitude.  Thus  the  Co- 
teau des  Prairies  may  probably  be  considered  as  changing 
the  course  of  the  Missouri,  above  the  Mandan  villages, 
from  an  easterly  to  a  southerly  direction,  and  as  keeping 
it  in  that  direction  for  nearly  three  hundred  miles,  when 
the  river  reassumes  a  course  east  of  south,  which  it  keeps 
until  it  unites  with  the  Mississippi.  It  is  to  the  vicinity 
of  the  Coteau  to  the  St.  Peter,  on  the  one  side,  and  of  the 
Mississippi,  on  the  other,  that  we  are  to  attribute  the  small 
size  of  the  tributaries  of  the  St.  Peter.  In  fact,  they  are 
mere  brooks  conveying  the  waters  on  the  east  side  of  the 
ridge ;  but,  probably,  about  the  spring  of  the  year,  they 
are  much  swollen  by  the  thawing  of  the  snow  and  ice  up- 
on the  ridge ;  it  is  in  this  manner  that  we  may  account  for 
the  water-marks  found  along  the  bluffs  which  enclose  their 
comparatively  large  valleys. 

Its  distance  from  our  course  prevented  us  from  visiting 
the  Coteau,  which  we  should  otherwise  have  done.  It  was 
intended  that  Mr.  Keating  should  examine  this  remarka- 

VoL.  I.  46 


362 


EXPEDITION    TO   THB 


ble  feature  in  the  country,  in  order  to  ascertain  what  its 
geological  characters  are,  but  as  we  were  generally  inform* 
ed  that  no  rocks  are  seen  at  its  surface,  that  it  presents  an 
uniformly  smooth  prairie-like  appearance,  the  ascent  be< 
ing  gradual  and  easy  on  both  sides,  and  as  it  would  have 
taken  three  days  to  go  to  its  summit  and  return,  this  ex- 
cursion was  not  made. 

The  Coteau  des  Prairies  may  truly  be  considered  as  the 
dividing  ridge  between  the  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi 
and  those  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  probably  formed  by  the 
elevation  of  the  granitic  or  other  primitive  rocks,  above 
the  usual  level  of  the  prairies.  These  may  have  been  co- 
vered in  a  mantle-formed  manner  by  the  secondary  and 
alluvial  rocks,  so  as  to  ^^c  entirely  concealed  from  view^ 
and  to  be  made  to  assume  the  general  featui'es  of  prairie 
land.  We  cannot,  however,  resist  the  belief,  that  a  geolo- 
gist who  would  follow  it,  in  its  whole  course  from  the  As- 
siniboin  to  the  Blue  Earth,  would  be  rewarded  by  the  dis- 
covery of  the  granitic  formations,  if  not  along  the  whole  of 
its  crest,  at  least  in  some  of  the  ravines  which  head  near 
it,  and  in  which  perhaps  a  superposition  of  secondary  rocks 
might  be  observed. 

After  liaving  left  the  Big  Stone  Lake,  we  crossed  a 
brook  which  retains  the  name  of  the  St  Peter,  but  which 
cannot  be  considered  as  part  of  that  river ;  the  St  Peter 
may,  in  fact,  be  said  to  commence  in  Big  Stone  Lake,  and 
this  to  be  but  a  small  tributary  from  the  Coteau  des  Prairies; 
it  was  less  than  seven  yards  wide.  This  stream  soon  leaves 
the  main  valley  and  turns  to  the  west,  where  a  lateral 
trench  in  the  prairie,  known  by  the  name  of  a  "  Coul6e,** 
gives  it  a  passage.  Had  we  visited  the  Coteau,  we  should 
have  ascended  this  CouUe,  to  trace  the  stream  to  its 
source.  It  divides  itself,  as  we  are  informed,  into  two 
branches;  one  of  which  runs  in  a  direction  west  by  soutli. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


363 


for  about  twelve  miles.  The  source  of  the  northern  and 
larger  branch  is  in  Polecat  Lake,  about  twice  that  distance, 
and  bearing  from  the  point  at  which  it  leaves  the  main 
valley,  about  west  by  north.  The  length  of  the  stream, 
following  all  its  windings,  is  about  forty  or  fifty  miles. 
Polecat  Lake,  whose  dimensions  are  one  and  a  half  mile 
in  length  by  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  is  frequently  dry,  and 
the  stream  often  conveys  but  little  water  to  the  Big  Stone 
Lake. 

By  the  route  which  we  travelled,  the  distance,  from  the 
mouth  of  the  St  Peter  to  the  head  of  Big  Stone  Lake,  is 
three  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  of  which  we  ascended 
one  hundred  and  thirty  by  water.  We  entertain  no  doubt 
that  the  distance,  in  a  direct  line  by  land,  would  fall  short  of 
two  hundred  and  thirty  miles ;  and  that  the  whole  length  of 
the  river,  including  all  its  bends,  does  not  exceed  five  hun- 
dred miles.  The  traders,  whose  estimates  almost  always 
exceed  the  truth,  do  not  ascribe  to  it  a  length  of  more  than 
six  hundred  miles.  How  different  these  observations  are 
from  the  opinions  formerly  entertained  of  this  stream, 
may  be  judged  from  the  assertion  of  Breckenridge,  that  it 
is  a  thousand  miles  long.  Other  authors  allow  it  twelve  hun- 
dred miles.  Carver  states  it,  on  the  authority  of  the  Indians, 
to  take  its  rise  in  the  same  neighbourhood  as,  and  within  the 
space  of  a  mile  of,  the  source  of  the  Missouri ;  he  adds  that  the 
northern  branch  rises  from  a  number  of  lakes  near  the  Shin- 
ing Mountains.  But  we  can  place  no  dependance  upon  the 
information  which  he  gives  from  second  hand,  when  we  find 
it  blended  with  such  fictions  as  are  contained  in  the  fol- 
lovvihg  extract  "  The  river  St  Pierre,  which  runs  through 
the  territory  of  the  Naudovvessies,  flows  through  a  most 
delightful  country,  abounding  with  all  the  necessaries  of 


S64 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


life  that  grow  spontaneously,  and  with  a  little  cultivation  it 
might  be  made  to  produce  even  the  luxuries  of  life.  Wild 
rice  grows  here  in  great  abundance,  and  every  part  is  filled 
with  trees,  bending  under  their  loads  of  fruits,  such  as  plums, 
grapes,  and  apples.  The  meadows  are  covered  with  hops 
and  many  sorts  of  vegetables,  while  the  ground  is  stored 
with  useful  roots,  with  angelica,  spikenard,  and  ground- 
nuts as  large  as  hen's  eggs."  We  were  not  so  fortunate  as 
to  meet  with  those  apples,  plums,  and  other  good  things, 
which  grew  spontaneously  sixty  years  since  in  the  country. 

The  St  Peter,  in  our  opinion,  probably  never  can  be 
made  a  commodious  stream ;  for  although  it  flows  over 
gradations,  and  not  upon  a  slant,  yet  as  these  gradations 
are  accumulated  into  the  upper  third  of  the  distance 
between  Big  Stone  Lake  and  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
the  expense  of  rendering  it  navigable,  by  flamming  and 
locking,  would  far  exceed  the  importance  of  the  object 
The  plan  would  doubtless  be  found  very  practicable,  but 
the  scarcity  of  water  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year 
would  render  these  works  unavailing.  From  considera- 
tions upon  which  it  is  unnecessary  to  dwell,  and  the  accu- 
racy of  which  might  be  disputed,  though  they  appear  to  us 
to  lead  to  correct  results,  we  have  estimated  the  fall  in  the 
river,  or  difference  of  level  between  the  Lac  qui  parle  and 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  at  about  fifty  or  sixty  feet  Accord- 
ing to  this  estimate,  the  average  fall  does  not  exceed  two 
or  three  inches  per  mile. 

The  river  having  taken  a  bend  to  the  west,  we  con- 
tinued our  route  in  what  appeared  to  have  been  an  old 
water-course,  and,  within  three  miles  of  the  Bi^  Stone 
Lake,  found  ourselves  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Travers, 
which  discharges  its  waters  by  means  of  Swan  or  Sioux 


o 


aouacs  of  st.  peter  s  biver. 


364 


river  into  the  Red  river  of  Lake  Winnepeek,  whose  wa- 
ters, as  is  well  known,  flow  towards  Hudson's  Bay.  The 
space  between  Lakes  Travers  and  Big  Stone,  is  but  very 
little  elevated  above  the  level  of  both  these  lakes ;  and  the 
water  has  been  known,  in  times  of  floods  to  rise  and  cover 
the  intermediate  ground,  so  as  to  unite  the  two  lakes.  In 
fact,  both  these  bodies  of  water  are  in  the  same  valley ;  and 
\i  is  within  the  recollection  of  some  persons,  now  in  the 
country,  that  a  boat  once  floated  from  Lake  Travers  into 
the  St  Peter.  Thus,  therefore,  this  spot  offers  us  one  of 
those  interesting  phaenomena,  which  wc  have  already  al- 
luded to,  but  which  are  no  where  perhaps  so  apparent  as 
they  are  in  this  place.  Here  we  behold  the  waters  of 
two  mighty  streams,  one  of  which  empties  itself  into  Hud- 
son's Bay  at  the  57th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  and  the 
other  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  latitude  29°,  rising  in  the 
same  valley  within  three  miles  of  each  other,  and  even  in 
some  cases  offering  a  direct  natural  navigation  from  one 
into  the  other.  We  seek  in  vain  for  those  dividing  ridges 
which  topographers  and  hydrographers  are  wont  to  repre- 
sent upon  their  maps  in  all  such  cases,  and  we  find  a  strong 
confirmation  of  that  beautiful  observation  of  a  modern  tra- 
veller, that  "  it  is  a  false  application  of  the  principles  of 
hydrography,  when  geographers  attempt  to  determine  the 
chains  of  mountains,  in  countries  of  which  they  suppose 
they  know  the  course  of  rivers.  They  suppose  that  two 
great  basins  of  water  can  only  be  separated  by  great  ele* 
vations,  or  that  a  considerable  river  can  only  change  its 
direction,  where  a  group  of  mountains  opposes  its  course; 
they  forget,  that  frequently,  either  on  accf  nt  of  the  na- 
ture of  the  rocks,  or  on  account  of  the  inclination  of  the 
strata,  the  most  elevated  levels  give  rise  to  no  river,  while 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STkiST 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MS80 

(716)S73-4503 


'^' 


f/. 


S66 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


the  sources  of  the  most  considerable  rivers  are  distant  from 
the  high  chains  of  mountains."* 

The  country  which  extends  between  the  forty-fifth  and 
forty-eighth  parallels  of  latitude,  and  between  the  ninety- 
third  and  ninety-seventh  of  longitude,  presents  perhaps  an 
example  of  the  interlockage  of  the  sources  of  rivers,  which 
few,  if  any  other  spot  on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  can  equal. 
Here,  no  high  ridge  extends  to  divide  the  sources  of  three 
of  the  largest  streams  that  are  known.  The  mighty  Mi^ 
sigsippi  and  many  of  its  tributaries  run  from  the  same  lakes 
or  swamps,  which  supply  the  waters  of  Nelson's  river  and 
of  the  St.  Lawrence.  This  limited  tract  of  country  includes 
the  head  of  the  Sioux  river,  and  Red  fork  of  Red  river,  of 
the  grand  fork  of  Rainy  Lake  river,  of  the  St.  Louis  river 
of  Lake  Superior,  of  Rum  river,  the  Mississippi  proper,  the 
Riviere  de  Corbeau,  and  the  St.  Peter.  The  Indian  and 
the  trader  constantly  pass  in  their  canoes,  from  one  to  an- 
other of  these  rivulets,  and  without  meeting  with  half  the 
difficulties  which  they  experience  lower  down  upon  the 
same  streams,  when  swelled  to  the  size  of  mighty  rivers, 
for  in  fact  the  whole  of  that  country  is  an  immense  swamp. 
Carver,  who  states  this  important  feature  of  the  country, 
destroys  all  the  value  of  his  information,  by  placing  in  the 
same  district,  the  sources  of  the  Oregan,  or  Great  River  of 
the  West 

In  tracing  the  gfciieral  aspect  of  the  country,  of  its  ridges 
and  streams,  we  have  omitted  the  little  incidents  which 
attended  our  progress  from  Lake  qui  parle  to  Lake  Tra- 
vers,  and  although  the  trifling  adventures,  which  attend  a.  tra- 
velling party,  lose  all  their  importance,  when  compared  to 


•Introduction  to  "Humboldt's  Political  Essay  of  the  King'donri  of 
New  SpaiY),  translated  by  John  Black,  London,  1811,"  page  Ixxxvi. 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETER*3   RIVER. 


30T 


tantffom 

-fifth  and 
e  ninety- 
erhaps  an 
srs,  which 
jan  equal. 
s  of  three 
rhty  Mi^ 
ame  lakes 

river  and 
y  includes 
d  river,  of 
jouis  river 
proper,  the 
Indian  and 
one  to  an- 
th  half  the 

upon  the 
ity  rivers, 
ise  swamp. 
3  country, 
cing  in  the 
it  River  of 

its  ridges 
nts  which 
Lake  Tra- 
ttend  a  tra- 
ompared  to 

Kingdom  of 
ige  Ixxxvi. 


Ihe  constant  and  invariable  features  of  the  natural  scenery, 
yet  as  this  part  of  our  route  was  more  diversified  by  incident 
than  any  that  had  preceded  it,  we  may  be  permitted  to  dwell 
upon  it  for  a  moment.  While  travelling  over  the  prairie  which 
borders  upon  that  nart  of  the  St.  Peter,  that  connects  Lake 
qui  parle  with  Big  Stone  Lake,  our  attention  was  aroused 
by  the  sight  of  what  appeared  to  be  buffaloes  chased  across 
the  prairie.   "They,  however,  soon  proved  to  be  Indians; 
their  number,  at  first  limited  to  two,  gradually  increased  to 
near  one  hundred ;  they  were  seen  rising  from  every  part 
of  the  prairie,  and  after  those  in  the  advance  had  recon- 
noitred us,  and  made  signals  that  we  were  friends,  by 
discharging  their  guns,  they  all  came  running  towards  us, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  we  found  ourselves  surrounded  by  a 
numerous  band.    They  had  at  first  been  apprehensive  that 
we  might  be  enemies,  and  this  was  the  cause  of  the  differ- 
ent manoeuvres  which  they  made  previous  to  discharging 
their  guns.  The  effect  of  these  guns,  fired  upon  the  prairie 
in  every  direction,  and  by  each,  as  soon  as  he  had  acquir- 
ed the  requisite  degree  of  certainty  that  the  strangers  were 
friends,  was  really  very  beautiful.     As  they  approached, 
we  had  an  opportunity  of  observing  that  these  Indians 
were  good-looking  and  straight ;  none  were  large,  nor  were 
any  remarkable  for  the  symmetry  of  their  forms.  They  were, 
for  the  greater  part,  destitute  of  clothing,  except  the  breech- 
cloth,  which  most  of  them  wore.  A  few,  however,  and  these 
adults,  had  divested  themselves  of  this  almost  indispensa- 
ble article  of  dress.  We  were  indeed  surprised  to  see  some 
old  men  among  them  quite  naked,  and  no  notice  appeared 
to  be  taken  of  it  by  the  others.    Some  of  them,  and  parti- 
cularly the  young  men,  were  dressed  with  care  and  osten- 
tation ;  they  wore  looking-glasses  suspended  to  their  gar- 
ments. Others  had  papers  of  pins,  purchased  from  the  tra- 


368 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


.^% 


ders,  as  ornaments.  We  observed  that  one,  who  appeared 
to  be  a  man  of  some  note  among  them,  had  a  live  sparrow- 
hawk  on  his  head,  by  way  of  distinction ;  this  man  wore 
also  a  buffalo  robe,  on  vhich  eight  bear  tracks  were  paint- 
ed. Some  of  them  were  mounted  on  horseback,  and 
were  constantly  drumming  upon  the  sides  of  their  horses 
with  their  heels,  being  destitute  both  of  whip  and  spur. 
Many  of  them  came  and  shook  hands  with  us,  while  the 
rest  were  riding  all  round  us  in  different  directions.  They 
belonged,  as  we  were  told,  to  the  W&hkpitoiii,  one  of  the 
tribes  of  the  Dacotas.  Their  chief  being  absent,  the  prin- 
cipal man  among  them  told  us  that  they  had  thirty  lodges 
of  their  people  at  the  lower  end  of  the  lake,  and  invited  us 
to  visit  them,  which  invitation  was  accepted.  These  In- 
dians demonstrated  the  greatest  friendship  and  satisfaction 
at  seeing  us.  As  we  rode  towards  their  lodges,  we  were 
met  by  a  large  party  of  squaws  and  children,  who  formed 
a  very  motley  group.  These  squaws  had  no  ornament, 
nor  did  they  seem  to  value  themselves  upon  their  per- 
sonal appearance.  We  observed'that  both  they  and  the  men 
had  very  handsome  small  feet  and  hands.  The  moccassins, 
which  they  usually  wear,  prevent  their  feet  from  spread- 
ing, as  is  the  case  with  those  who  walk  unrestrained  by 
any  kind  of  shoe.  From  the  use  of  these,  as  probably  also 
from  the  habit  of  walking  with  caution,  their  feet  retained 
a  beautiful  arched  form.  The  dress  of  the  women  consist- 
ed of  a  long  wrapper,  with  short  sleeves,  of  dark  calico ; 
this  covered  them  from  the  shoulders  to  the  waist;  a  piece 
of  blue  broadcloth  wound  two  or  three  times  round  the 
waist,  and  its  end  tucked  in,  extended  to  the  knee.  They 
also  wore  leggings  of  blue  or  scarlet  cloth.  ^  Their  forms 
were  rather  clumsy ;  their  waists  not  very  delicate ;  they 
exhibited  a  great  breadth  of  hips.  Their  motions  were  not 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER'S    RIVER. 


369 


graceful,  and  their  walk  reminded  one  of  the  psrty  of  the 
praise  in  the  song  of  the  modern  Greek,  as  recorded  by 
Dodwell,  "  My  love  walks  about  like  a  goose." 

The  village,  to  which  they  directed  us,  consisted  of 
thirty  skin  lodges,  situated  on  a  fine  meadow  on  the  bank  of 
the  lake.  Their  permanent  residence,  or  at  least  that  which 
they  have  occupied  as  such  for  the  last  five  years,  is  on  a 
rocky  island,  (Big  Island,)  in  the  lake,  nearly  opposite  to, 
and  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of,  their  present  encampment. 
Upon  the  island  they  cultivate   their  cornfields,  secure 
against  the  aggressions  of  their  enemies.     They  had  been 
lately  engaged  in  hunting  buflalo,  apparently  with  much 
success.     The  principal  man  led  us  to  his  lodge,  where- 
in a  number  of  the  influential  men  were  admitted,  the 
women  being  excluded ;  but  we  observed  that  they,  with 
the  children,  went  about  the  lodge,  peeping  through  all 
the  crevices,  and  not  unfrequcntly  raising  the  skins  to  ob- 
serve our  motions.  They  soon  brought  in  a  couple  of  largo 
wooden  dishes,  filled  with  pounded  buffalo  meat  boiled, 
and  covered  with  the  marrow  of  the  same  animal ;  of  this 
we  partook  with  great  delight ;  it  was  the  first  time  that 
several  of  the  party  had  tasted  thr  fresk  bufiblo  meat ;  and 
it  was  the  first  meal  made  by  any  of  us  upon  fresh  meat, 
since  we  had  left  Fort  St.  Anthony.  During  the  entertain- 
ment, Major  Long  made  known  to  them  the  objects  of  the 
expedition,  at  which  they  appeared  very  much  gratified. 
As  we  rose  to  depart,  we  were  informed  that  another  feast 
was  preparing  for  us  in  one  of  the  ^^djoining  tents,  of  which 
we  were  invited  to  partake.     We  were  too  familiar  with 
Indian  manners,  not  to  know  that  the  excuse  of  having 
just  eaten  a  very  hearty  meal,  would  not  be  considered  as 
sufficient  among  them;  and  so  we  readily  resigned  our- 
selves to  the  necessity  of  again  testifying  our  friendly  dispo- 


VOL.  I. 


47 


370 


EXPEDITION    TO   THE 


sition,  bydoinghonourto  their  meal.  In  order  to  save  time, 
we  had  it  brought  into  the  same  lodge.  It  consisted  of  a 
white  root,  somewhat  similar  in  appearance  to  a  small  tur- 
nip; it  is  called,  by  the  Dacotas,  t^psln,  by  the  French,  the 
"  Pomme  blanche  or  Navet  de  Prairie."*  It  was  boiled 
down  into  a  sort  of  mush  or  hominy,  and  was  very  much 
relished  by  most  of  the  party ;  had  it  been  seasoned  with 
salt  or  sugar,  it  would  have  been  considered  delicious. 
This  was  held,  even  by  the  guides,  to  be  a  great  treat.  As 
we  were  rising  from  this  second  meal,  we  were  informed 
that  "  third  one  was  preparing  for  us ;  we  begged  to  de- 
cline it,  having  a  considerable  distance  to  travel  that  after- 
noon ;  but  we  were  informed  that  this  would  be  a  great 
disappointment  to  him  who  had  prepared  the  feast,  as  in 
order  to  outdo  all  others  he  had  killed  a  dog,  which  is  con- 
sidered not  only  as  the  greatest  delicacy,  but  also  as  a  sa- 
cred animal,  of  which  they  eat  only  on  great  occasions. 
In  order  to  meet  his  wishes  we  deferred  our  journey  for  an 
hour,  but  the  repast  not  being  then  prepared,  we  were  com- 
pelled to  leave  the  village,  to  the  great  and  manifest  mor- 
fication  of  ouV  third  host,  and  to  the  no  small  disappoint- 
ment of  most  of  our  party,  who  were  desirous  of  tasting 
of  the  sacred  animal.  In  order  to  make  a  return  for  the 
civilities  which  we  had  received  at  the  hands  of  the  In- 
dians, we  informed  them  that  if  they  would  despatch  a 
messenger  with  us,  we  should  send  them,  from  a  neigh- 
bouring trader's  house,  some  tobacco,  all  ours  having  been 
lost  on  the  river.  They  gladly  accepted  the  proposal,  and 
sent  two  lads  with  us  for  it  In  the  afternoon,  we  reached 
a  house  belonging  to  the  American  Fur  Company.  It  is 
situated  about  half  way  up  the  lake.  Mr.  Moore,  the  super- 


Psoralea  Esculenta,  Nuttall. 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


371 


intcndant,  showed  us  every  attention,  and  supplied  us  with 
as  many  of  the  articles  which  we  required,  as  he  could  dis- 
pose of.  In  the  vicinity  of  Mr.  Moore's  house,  we  saw  lamb's 
quarter,*  which  was  more  than  seven  feet  high.  This  plant 
was,  at  that  time,  almost  too  old  for  use,  but  until  tlien  it  had 
proved  a  very  valuable  addition,  at  our  meals,  to  the  extreme- 
ly small  ration  of  biscuit,  which  at  that  time  was  reduced  to 
about  one  ounce  per  day  for  each  man.  At  Mr.  Moore's 
we  ate  of  a  very  good  fish,  called  the  buffalo  fish.  We  had 
met,  on  the  bluff  which  commands  his  house,  two  Indian 
lodges,  in  one  of  which  was  Tktknkk  Wichich^ta,  (the  buf- 
falo man,)  an  Indian  who  claims  the  command  of  the 
Wahkpatoans.  We  had  declined  his  invitation  to  stay  at  his 
lodge  in  tha  afternoon,  being  desirous  of  reaching  Mr. 
Moore's  house  as  early  as  passible,  but  we  promised  to  re- 
turn about  sunset,  and  he  accordingly  made  all  due  prepa- 
rations to  receive  us.  The  chief,  and  his  principal  men, 
were  in  waiting.  We  entered  the  skin  lodge,  and  were 
seated  on  fine  buffalo  robes,  spread  all  round ;  on  the  fire, 
which  was  in  the  centre  of  the  lodge,  two  large  iron  ket- 
tles, filled  with  choicest  pieces  of  buffalo,  were  placed. 
When  the  chief  took  his  seat,  he  had  near  him  a  large 
pouch  or  bag,  decorated  with  but  little  taste,  although  he 
seemed  to  have  gathered  up  all  that  he  could  collect  in  the 
way  of  ornament  Among  other  things,  we  observed 
an  old  and  dirty  comb.  He  had,  since  our  first  visit,  be- 
dawbed  his  face  witli  white  clay.  Tatanka  W^echacheta  is 
a  young  man,  slender,  but  well-formed,  rather  tall,  with  a 
wide  mouth,  large  eyes,  which,  when  we  saw  him,  had  an 
unusual  expression  of  fierceness,  from  being  remarkably 
bloodshot;  otherwise  we  should  judge  that  his  appearance 


Chenopodium  album. 


37i8 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE 


would  be  prepossessing.   Among  the  many  Dacotas  with 
whom  w&  have  met,  few  present  any  remarkable  expression 
of  cunning,  still  less  those  dreadful  looks  which  distin- 
guished the  Potawatomi  partizan,  Metea.     Their  faces  are 
faithful  indices  to  the  equanimity  of  their  souls;  yet  the 
action  of  the  muscles  and  the  bones  of  the  face  aru  not 
concealed,  as  they  often  are  in  the  white  man,  by  a  load  of 
flesh.     This,  together  with  his  deep  sunk  eye,  renders  the 
Indian  capable,  on  great  provocation,  of  assuming  and  ex- 
hibiting the  most  terrific  passion.  On  the  right  of  the  chief 
sate  one  who  is  held  in  high  veneration  by  his  tribe,  being 
the  greatest  medicine  or  magic  man  among  them.     His 
cures  are  considered  as  miraculous ;  they  are  wrought  by 
spells  as  well  as  by  herbs,  with  which  he  is  considered  to 
be  very  conversant.  In  his  co  intenance  it  was  not  difficult 
to  discover  a  mixed  expression  of  knavery  and  hypocrisy. 
Soon  after  our  arrival  at  the  lodge,  an  Indian  entered  it, 
whom  it  required  but  little  skill  in  physiognomy,  to  mark 
out  immediately  as  a  stranger ;  his  complexion  was  at  least 
one  shade  darker  than  that  of  the  Dacotas ;  his  features 
diffisred  materially ;  his  face  was  rounder  and  shorter ;  his 
mouth  was  wider ;  his  eyes  had  more  of  the  European 
than  native  American  character;  he  appeared  to  be  very 
old ;  his  locks  were  hoary ;  his  face  bore  perhaps  the  cha- 
racter of  an  old  Frenchman,  more  than  of  any  other  nation. 
We  were  informed  that  he  was  an  Assiniboin,  who  had 
been  made  a  prisoner  many  years  since.   He  seemed  to  be 
kindly  treated,  though  a  sort  of  butc  for  the  jokes  of  the 
Dacotas,  whether  men,  women,  or  children.     After  the 
eustoraary  preliminai'ies  of  shaking  of  hands,  smoking  the 
pipe  of  peace,  &c.  we  proceeded  to  the  feast,  which  was 
for  \d  Excellent.  The  buffalo  meat  had  been  selected  with 
care,  the  fat  and  lean  judiciously  portioned  out,  the  whole 


SOURCE    OP    ST.    PETEK  S    RIVER. 


'73 


boiled  to  a  proper  degree,  and  in  fine,  though  our  appe- 
tites were  not  stimulated  by  a  long  fast,  this  repast  app'.ar- 
to  us  one  of  the  best  of  which  we  had  ever  partaken.  Our 
hosts  were  gratified  and  flattered  at  the  quantity  which  we 
ate;  the  residue  of  the  feast  was  sent  to  our  soldiers.  In 
this,  and  every  other  instance  where  we  have  been  invited 
to  a  feast  by  the  Indians,  we  observed  that  they  never  cat 
with  their  guests. 

Tatanka  Wechacheta  is  the  nephew  of  a  man  of  con- 
siaerable  distinction  among  the  Wahkpatoan  Dacotas. 
Since  the  death  of  his  uncle,  which  took  place  lately,  he 
has  attempted  to  be  considered  as  his  successor;  but  '  e 
former  was  never  duly  acknowledged  as  chief,  this  tiile 
residing  in  Nunpakea,a  man  of  considerable  bravery  %vho, 
by  the  influence  of  his  family  and  of  his  talents,  acquired 
that  dignity,  in  preference  to  his  first  cousins,  on  the  death 
of  their  father. 

Our  host  boasted  of  tne  many  flags  and  medals  which 
his  uncle  had  obtained  from  our  government,  and  which 
were  then  in  his  possession ;  these,  and  the  influence  of  his 
great  magician,  may  probably  secure  to  him  the  dignity  to 
which  he  aspires,  if  he  has  talent  enough  to  uphold  it.  After 
the  feast  was  over,  our  host  rose,  shook  hands  with  all  the 
gentlemen  of  our  party,  then  resumed  his  seat,  and  delivered 
a  speech,  which,  at  the  time,  appeared  to  us  very  pertinent 
and  interesting.  It  was  delivered  with  apparent  feeling, 
but  not  without  some  hesitation  ;  his  gestures  were  vehe- 
ment and  unmeaning.  Havin^^  expressed  to  Renville  our 
satisfaction  at  the  speech,  he  immediately  observed  that  it 
expressed  too  much  adulation,  and  too  much  w  hining ;  had 
Tatanka  Wechacheta  been  the  chief  that  he  professed  him- 
iself  to  be,  his  tone  would  have  beei?  more  imposing,  and 


374 


ExrCDITION   TO   TUU 


I'M. 


his  style  more  dignified  and  decisive.   We  have  preserved 
the  following  very  imperfect  sketch  of  this  speech : — 

"  Brothers,  The  subject,  upon  which  I  am  to  address 
you,  is  grievou?  to  me ;  and  this  grief  is  the  motive  which 
has  thus  far  prevented  me  from  speaking  to  you.  Since 
the  lamented  death  of  my  revered  uncle,  who  died  last 
year,  I  have  been  called  upon  to  succeed  to  him,  but  as  I 
am  not  endued  with  experience  to  know  how  to  direct  my- 
self, I  shall  follow  the  advice  which  I  have  received  from 
him,  and  therefore  I  rejoice  at  seeing  you,  and  I  am  grati- 
fied by  your  visit 

"  I  regret  that  my  followers  are  now  all  absent.  This 
is  not  the  season  when  we  the  Indians  are  together ;  this  is 
our  hunting  season.  In  the  autumn,  we  collect  in  our  vil- 
lages to  meet  the  traders.  Had  you  seen  us  thus  collect- 
ed, you  would  have  found  me  at  the  head  of  a  large  and 
powerful  band  of  men  j  at  present  I  am  alone  ;  still  I  am 
pleased  to  see  you. 

"Brothers,  There  are  two  roads  which  we  the  Daco- 
tas  usually  travel ;  my  uncle  trod  both  these  paths.  The 
first  led  him  to  the  British,  far  towards  the  rising  sun. 
From  them  he  received  both  kindness  and  honour;  they 
made  him  many  presents,  among  which  were  flags  and 
medals.  The  other  road  led  him  to  the  Americans  at  St. 
Louis ;  this  road  he  subsequently  travelled.  From  them 
he,  in  like  manner,  received  flags  and  medals.  These  he 
has  bequeathed  all  to  me. 

"  I  should  have  unfurled  my  flags  at  your  approach,  but 
I  am  unacquainted  with  the  customs  of  your  nation,  and 
I  am  new  in  the  duties  of  my  rank.  I  am  ignorant  how 
to  act ;  but  I  am  desirous  of  following  the  advice  of  my 
dying  uncle,  who  bade  me  remain  at  peace  with  the  Ame- 


80UBCE   OF   ST.    PETER^S   RIVER. 


375 


ricans,  and  always  consider  thwin  as  my  friends;  and  as 
such  I  hold  you. 

"  My  Friends,  I  am  poor  and  very  destitute  ;  not  so  was 
my  uncle.  But  I  have  as  yet  followed  neither  of  the  roads 
which  he  travelled.  Since  I  have  been  called  upon  to  rule 
over  my  people,  I  have  dwelt  among  them,  and  have  not 
been  able  to  visit  St.  Louis,  in  order  to  obtain  presents  of 
powder  and  tobacco. 

"  I  have  already  told  you,  that  my  followers  are  absent 
They  are  hunting  to  the  north ;  I  have  left  with  them  my 
flags ;  I  know  not  whither  you  are  going ;  but  I  presume  you 
may  meet  with  them.  They  will  exhibit  to  you  my  flags ; 
and  you  will  know  them,  for  they  are  those  of  your  nation. 
I  shall  send  them  word  of  your  intention  to  travel  that 
way,  and  bid  them,  if  they  see  you,  treat  you  with  be- 
coming respectj  assist  you,  supply  you  wf^h  provisions, 
and  with  whatever  else  you  may  require. 

"  My  Friends,  I  am  poor,  and  could  not  do  much  ;  but 
I  have  prepared  this  little  feast ;  you  have  partaken  of  it, 
and  it  has  gratified  me.  I  am  young  and  inexperienced  in 
speaking,  but  I  have  done  my  best.  Again,  I  thank  you 
for  your  flattering  visit." 


376 


KXI'EUITIOX    TO    THE 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

viccount  of  the.  Dacotas  or  Sioux  Indians.  Their  divi- 
sions into  tribes.  Their  nnmberSy  language,  manners 
and  customs.  Notice  of  IVanutany  principal  chief  of 
the  Yanktoanan  tribe.  Description  of  the  Columbia 
Fur  Company\s  establishment  on  Lake  Travers. 


WE  have  collectjcd  together  all  the  information  which 
we  have  obtained  on  the  subject  of  the  Dacotas.  It  results, 
either  from  our  own  observations,  or  from  conversations 
with  those  able  to  communicate  facts,  either  at  Prairie  du 
Chien,  Fort  St.  Anthony,  or  Lake  Travers.  He,  who  has 
contributed  most  to  it,  is  Renville  ;  we  are  aware  that  all 
the  information  which  he  has  given  us  cannot  be  depend- 
ed upon.  He  was  uneducated,  not  free  from  prejudices,  not 
entirely  exempt  from  the  superstitions  of  his  mother's 
countrymen.  His  opportunities  of  improvement,  but  more 
especially  his  inquiring  mind,  had  made  him  sceptical  up- 
on many  points ;  still  upon  some  he  appeared  credulous. 
We  believe  it  not  impossible,  that  he  may  sometimes  have 
attempted  to  give  information  which  he  did  not  possess,  or 
to  exaggerate  truths  into  fictions.  We,  at  the  time,  care- 
fully recorded  all  that  he  told  us,  and  have  since  made  use 
of  but  such  parts  as  appeared  to  us  correct,  endeavouring 
lb  omit  all  that  may  have  sprung  from  ignorance,  credu- 
lity, or  a  taste  for  the  marvellous. 

The  Dacotas  are  a  large  and  powerful  nation  of  Indians 
distinct  in  their  manners,  language,  habits,  and  opinions, 
ftom  the  Chippcwas,  Sauks,  Foxes,  and  Naheawak or  KiJ- 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


377 


listeno,  as  well  as  from  all  nations  of  the  Algonquin  stock. 
They  are  likewise  unlike  the  Pawnees  and  the  Minnetarees 
or  Gros  Ventres.    Tlicy  inhabit  a  large  district  of  country 
which  may  b<j  comprised  within  the  following  limits : — 
From  Prairie  du  Chien  on  the  Mississippi  by  a  curved  line 
extending  east  of  north,  and  made  to  include  all  the  eastern 
tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  to  the  first  branch  of  Chippe- 
wa river;  the  head  waters  of  that  stream  being  claimed  by 
the  Chippewa  Indians  ;  thence  by  a  line  running  west  of 
north  to  the  head  of  Spirit  Lake ;  thence  by  a  westerly 
line  to  the  Riviere  de  Corbeau ;  thence  up  that  river  to  its 
head  near  Otter-tail  Lake ;  thence  by  a  westerly  line  to 
Red  River,  and  dov/n  that  river  to  Pembina;  thence  by  a 
south-westerly  line  to  the  east  bank  of  the  Missouri  near 
the  Mandan  villages ;  thei  ce  down  the  Missouri*  to  a  point 
probably  not  far  from  Soldier's  River ;  thence  by  a  line 
running  east  of  north  to  Prairie  du  Chien.     This  tract  in- 
cludes about  seven  degrees  of  latitude,  viz.  from  the  42° 
to  the  49°,  and  nine  of  longitude,  viz.  from  90°  30'  to  99° 
30*.     These  boundaries,  as  well  as  all  the  subsequent  facts 
which  we  shall  state,  do  not  apply  to  the  Assiniboins,  a 
revolted  band  of  the  Dacotas,  who  separated  from  them  a 
long  time  ago,  and  who  reside  to  the  north  of  the  49th 
degree  of  latitude.     We  will  have  occasion  to  recur  to 
them  hereafter. 

This  immense  extent  of  country  is  inhabited  by  a  nation 
calling  themselves,  in  their  internal  relations,  the  D^c6td, 
which  means  the  allied,  but  who  in  tlieir  external  relations 
style  themselves  thp  Och5nt6  Sh^ko&n,  which  signifies  the 
nation  of  seven,  (council,)  fires.     This  refers  to  the  fol- 

*  According  to  Lewis  and  Clarke,  they  hunt  on  both  banks  of  the 
Missouri  and  its  tributaries,  from  the  43d  to  the  47th  degree  of  lati* 
tude,  (vol.  I.  p.^1.) 

Vol.  I.  48 


378 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


■  4^" 
^^.•^'■^1 


'*■'  ^-^  i 


7-  ■■• 


lowing  division  which  formerly  prevailed  among  them, 
viz: — 

1.  Mende  Wahkan  toan,  or  people  of  the  Spirit  Lake. 

2.  Wahkpa  toan,  or  people  of  the  Leaves. 

3.  Sisi  toan,  or  iVIia  Kechakesa. 

4.  Yank  toan  an,  or  Fern  leaves. 

5.  Yank  toan,  or  descended  from  the  Fern  leaves. 

6.  Ti  toan,  or  Braggcrs. 

7.  Wahkpako  toan,  or  the  people  that  shoot  at  leaves. 

These  form  two  great  divisions,  which  have  been  dis- 
tinguished by  the  traders  into  the  names  of  Gens  du  Lac, 
and  Gens  du  Large.  Those  that  resided  about  Spirit  Lake, 
and  who  are  now  principally  found  along  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi ;  and  those  that  rove  in  the  prairies ;  these 
may  be  considered  as  including  all  the  six  last  tribes. 

All  the  Dacotas  speak  the  same  language ;  yet  some  dis- 
tinctions of  the  nature  of  dialects  appear  to  prevail  in  some 
words,  as  spoken  by  the  roving  or  by  the  stationary  In- 
dians. From  the  circumstance  of  these  differences  being 
trifling,  we  are  led  to  believe,  that  the  seven  tribes  were 
originally  one,  and  that  the  name  of  Dacota,  or  allied,  must 
not  be  considered  as  implying  an  union  or  amalgamation 
of  different  nations.  We  hope  we  shall  not  be  accused  of 
indul^^ing  in  a  fanciful  comparison,  when  we  observe  that 
we  see,  in  the  use  of  this  word  by  them,  the  same  m'_  ning 
as  it  has  with  us ;  probably  they  sprung  from  one  common 
root,  divided  into  tribes  according  to  their  local  distribu- 
tion upon  the  surface  of  the  country,  and  then,  speaking 
the  same  language,  and  having  the  same  enemies,  they 
found  it  convenient  to  unite  in  one  confederacy  for  their 
mutual"  safety.  We  do  not,  however,  profess  to  have  a 
sufficient  acquaintance  with  their  language,  or  with  philo- 
logy in  general,  to  decide  the  question.     Perhaps  one 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


379 


skilled  in  this  science  could  discover  in  their  language  a 
combination  of  several  originally  distinct  tongues.  If  such 
ever  existed,  all  recollection  of  it  has  been  effaced  among 
them. 

To  ascertain  the  number  of  any  Indian  .ue  has  always 
been  considered  one  of  the  greatest  desiderata,  but  at  the 
same  time  one  of  very  difficult  attainment.  The  numbers  of 
this  nation  have  been  variously  stated  by  different  travel- 
lers. We  have  had  no  opportunity  of  forming  any  opinion 
of  our  own  on  this  subject ;  but  they  have  been  represented 
to  us  by  all  who  knew  them  as  extremely  numerous.  We 
have  already  stated,  in  another  place,  that  we  had  seen 
lodges  large  enough  to  hold  fifty  inhabitants.  We  have 
likewise  to  observe,  that  they  chiefly  subsist  upon  the  buf- 
falo, an  aninal  which  exists  in  herds*  of  tens  of  thousands 
on  the  prairies  between  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  and 
which,  within  a  few  years  past,  was  extremely  abundant 
east  of  the  Mississippi ;  from  this  it  may  be  argued,  that 
the  means  of  subsistence  far  exceed,  the  consumption  of  a 
much  larger  population  than  has  ever  been  ascribed  to  the 
Dacotas.  It  must  likewise  be  remembered,  that  it  is  a  cha- 
racteristic of  the  Indian  never  to  destroy  more  than  he  can 
consume ;  in  this,  difiering  much  from  the  white  hunter, 
who  will  frequently  kill  a  buffalo  for  its  tongue  or  its  mar- 
row bones,  leaving  the  rest  of  the  animal  as  a  prey  to  the 
wolves.  In  the  destruction  of  the  buffalo,  the  white  man 
cannot  even  plead  the  inducements  of  trade,  since  a  great 
many  are  killed  whose  hides  are  never  turned  to  use. 
With  these  observations  we  will  offer  a  census  of  the  popu- 
lation of  the  Dacotas,  as  furnished  to  us  by  Renville,  re- 

**  The  term  band,  as  applied  to  a  herd  of  buffalo,  has  almost  become 
technical,  being  the  only  one  in  use  in  the  west.  It  is  deiived  from 
the  French  term  bande. 


1 


380  EXPEDITION   TO   THE 

marking,  however,  that  it  is  usually  considered  as  ex- 
aggerated. 

Names  ofvillagesorpartiea  of  Dacotas.  No.  of  lodges.  Warriors.  Souls. 
Gens  du  lac,  or  Mendewahkantoan. 

1.  Keoxa,  (Wapasha*s,  &c.)      -    -  40  70  400 

2.  Eanbosandata,  (Red  Wing's,)  -  10  25  100 

3.  Kapoja,  (Petit  Corbeau's,)        -  30  70  300 

4.  Oanoska,  (Black  Dog's,)      -    -  30  40  200 

5.  Tetankatane,         10  30  150 

6.  Taoapa, 30  60  300 

7.  Weakaote        la  10  50 

Gens  du  large,  or  roving  Dacotaa. 

8.  Miakechakesa,  (or  Sisitons,)     -     130         260      1000 

9.  Wahkpakota, 100         200        800 

10.  Wahkpatoan,         -----  120  240  KOO 

11.  Kahra,  (a  band  of  the  Sisitons,)  160  450  1500 

12.  Yanktoanan, 460  1300  5200 

13.  Yanktoaii,        --.-.,.  200  500  2000 

14.  Tetoans, 900  3600  14,400 

Adding  for  stragglers     -    -»    -  100  200  800 

2330       7055  28,100 
StrengthoftheHohaor  Assiniboins,  3000      7000  28,000 

Total  force  of  the  Dacota,  (before 7 ,      --   - 

,,.,...,  ^  >  5330    14,055  56,100 

tneir  division,)      -    -    -    -      ^ 

Previous  to  their  division  the  Assiniboins  belonged  to 
tlte  Yanktoanan  tribe. 

The  above  estimate  falls  somewhat  short  of  that  which 
Renville  made  some  time  before,  when  he  was  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  He  then  visited  all 
the  Dacota  villages,  camps,  &c.  and  by  a  close  calculation 
Estimated  the  number  of  warriors,  exclusive  of  the  Assinr- 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  riveb. 


381 


ed  as  ex- 

Tiors 

.  Souls. 

70 

400 

25 

100 

70 

300 

40 

200 

30 

150 

60 

300 

10 

50 

60 

1000 

100 

800 

!40 

900 

150 

1500 

00 

5200 

>00 

2000 

»00 

14,400 

!00 

800 

boins,  at  7600.  This  band  having  always  been  estimated 
at  very  nearly  the  same  number  as  all  the  other  Dacotas, 
will  give  an  aggregate,  (according  to  these  data,)  of  15,000 
warriors.  Admitting  the  proportion  of  one-fourth  the  na- 
tion able  to  bear  arms,  which  is  probably  very  near  the 
truth,  it  would  give  as  a  total  60,000  souls ;  who  would  oc- 
cupy about  6000  lodges.  In  counting  the  lodges  we  allude 
to  the  skin  tents  which  contain  from  eight  to  ten  indi- 
viduals, young  and  old ;  for  the  permanent  cabins  on  the 
Mississippi  contain  from  three  to  ten  families  each,  and  it 
is  said  that  one  cabin  has,  in  some  cases,  furnished  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  warriors. 

As  almost  every  traveller,  who  has  visited  the  Dacotas, 
has  given  a  different  enumeration  of  their  divisions ;  some 
reckoning  but  seven,  while  others  admit  as  many  as  twenty- 
one  tribes ;  it  may  be  well  to  observe  that  this  distribution 
into  fifteen  parties  is  merely  introduced  with  a  view  to 
facilitate  a  better  acquaintance  with  the  nation.  We  believe 
that  there  are  but  seven  tribes  among  the  Dacotas,  as  their 
name  of  Ochente  Shakoan  implies ;  the  divisions  which  we 
have  admitted  in  the  Mende  Wahkantoan,  are  probably 
not  very  important,  and  we  know  that  similar  ones  exist 
among  the  several  tribes  of  roving  Dacotas ;  we  have  no 
doubt  that  the  Tetoans  are  divided  into  many  parties,  such 
as  the  Tetons  of  the  Burnt  wood,  the  Tetons  Okandandas, 
Tetons  Mennakenozzo,  Tetons  Saone,  &c.  as  enumerated  by 
Lewis  and  Clarke.  If  we  have  not  made  use  of  any  of  these 
divisions  in  most  of  the  other  tribes,  it  is  because  we  could 
not  obtain  them  so  accurately ;  and  also  because  they  are  less 
important;  a  hunter,  who  has  no  fixed  residence,  will  wil- 
lingly pass  from  one  party  of  Indians  to  another,  belong- 
ing to  the  same  tribe  as  he  does,  and  this  he  will  be  ready 
to  do  at  any  time ;  but  he  who  has  his  lodge,  his  cornfields^ 


382 


CXFEOITION  TO  THE 


&c.  is  much  more  inclined  to  attach  himself  to  the  village 
in  which  he  lives ;  and,  accordingly,  we  find  that  the  resi- 
dences of  the  Dacotas,  on  the  Mississippi,  &c.  are  still,  for 
the  most  part,  kept  up  in  the  same  places,  where  Carver 
saw  them  in  1766. 

The  population  of  the  Dacotas  varies,  according  to  the 
different  travellers.  Carver  estimates  tlie  Naudowessies  of 
the  plains,  (independant  of  those  of  Spirit  lake,)  at  up- 
wards of  two  thousand ;  but  as  he  includes  in  these  the 
Shiennes  and  Omawhaws,  who,  at  present  at  least,  form 
distinct  nations,  it  is  evident  that  we  can  draw  no  conclu- 
sions from  his  statement  Lewis  and  Clarke  establish  their 
numbers  at  about  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  fifty  war- 
riors, which,  upon  the  data  of  one  warrior  to  four  souls, 
admits  a  population  of  about  ten  thousand,  but  this  is  un- 
doubtedly far  under  the  truth.  Pike  states  their  population 
at  twenty-one  thousand  six  hundred  and  seventy-five,  in- 
cluding three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  thirty-five  war- 
riors. We  believe  the  aggregate  which  he  gives  is  nearly 
correct,^i)ut  that  he  allows  too  few  warriors.  Among  such 
Indians  as  ha\e  pailially  acquired  habits  of  civilized  life, 
the  proportion  of  one  warrior  in  five  souls  may  be  very 
nearly  true ;  but  among  the  roving  bands,  which  constitute 
the  majority  of  the  Dacotas,  we  would  not  admit  the  ratio 
to  be  less  than  one  to  four;  for  the  number  of  children  and 
old  men  is  proportionally  much  smaller.  Youths  are,  at  a 
very  early  age,  counted  as  warriors ;  probably  every  male, 
above  the  age  of  sixteen,  may,  in  reality,  be  enumerated  as 
such.* 

From  these  observations  we  are  led  to  admit,  that  the 


•  Vide  Carver,  ut  supra,  p.  50. — ^Lewis  and  Clarke,  vol.  1,  p  60. — 
Ifike,  appendix  to  Part  I.  p.  66. 


souRL'C  OP  ST.  Peter's  hiver. 


333 


population  of  the  Sioux  nation  cannot  be  under  twfenty- 
flve  thousand  souls,  and  that  it  includes  at  least  six  thou- 
sand warriors. 

The  following  synopsis  of  the  usual  residence  of  the  Da- 
cotas,  and  of  the  actual  state  of  the  villages  or  parties  above 
alluded  to,  may  be  of  use  as  a  term  of  comparison  for  future 
travellers. 

1.  Keoxa.  Their  chief  is  Wapasha ;  they  have  two  vil- 
lages on  the  Mississippi,  (one  on  lawa  river,  the  other  near 
Lake  Pepin ;)  they  hunt  on  both  banks  of  the  Mississippi, 
near  Chippewa  river  and  its  tributaries.  The  chief  holds 
his  situation  by  hereditary  tenure ;  his  father  was  a  great 
warrior ;  the  present  chief  is  a  wise  man,  addicted  to  agri- 
culture. Keoxa  signifies  "  relationship  overlooked,"  be- 
cause they  unite  or  have  connexion  between  nearer  rela- 
tions than  the  other  Dacotas ;  first  cousins,  uncles  and 
nieces,  and  even  brothers  and  sisters  intermarry. 

2.  Eanbosandata  means  "  vertical  rock,"  from  a  rock 
on  Cannon  River.  Their  chief  is  Shakea,  who  has  always 
been  considered  as  dependent  upon  Wapasha ;  he  rose  to 
his  station  by  military  talents.  They  have  two  small  vil- 
lages, one  on  the  Mississippi,  the  other  on  Cannon  river ; 
they  hunt  on  the  head  waters  of  that  stream. 

3.  Kapoja,  means  "light;"  they  are  supposed  to  be 
more  active  than  the  other  Dacotas.  Their  present  chief 
is  a  very  distinguished  man,  and  belongs  to  one  of  the 
oldest  families  of  chiefs  among  the  Dacotas,  he  being  the 
fourth  of  his  family  in  direct  line.  At  a  meeting  of  many 
Indian  nations,  which  took  place  at  Lake  Travers  about 
four  or  five  years  ago,  there  were  present,  besides  some 
men  from  all  the  tribes  of  Dacotas,  many  from  the  Assini- 
boins,  Mandans,  Minnetarees,  lawas,  and  other  nations, 
who  all  addressed  him  by  the  name  of  "  Father,"  acknow- 


384 


EXrEDITION    TO    THE 


ledging  thereby  not  only  his  superiority  over  all  the  other 
Dacota  chiefs,  but  even  that  of  the  Dacota  natioi.  over 
theirs.     At  this  meeting,  they  exchanged  and  renewed 
pledges  of  friendship,  &c.     The  festivities,  which  lasted 
about  a  fortnight,  consisted  of  dances,  songs  and  repasts ; 
the  principal  feast  was  celebrated  on  the  25th  of  June. 
Butfaloes  were  then  very  abundant  in  the  country,  and  a 
great  number  v/ere  killed.     The  chief  to  whom  the  flat- 
tering distinction  of  Father  was  thus  applied,  is  the  same 
that  is  generally  called  Petit  Corbeau  by  the  traders,  Che- 
tanwakoamane  by  the  Dacotas.*    Renville  interpreted  for 
this  Indian  at  the  time  when  he  visited  Drummonds  island, 
in  1815.     He  reproached  the  British  government  for  the 
situation  in  which  they  left  the  Indians.  When  told  by  Col. 
M'Coy,  the  Indiaii  agent  for  the  British,  that  he  acted  in 
compliance  with  one  of  the  stipulations  in  the  treaty  with 
the  United  States,  the  chief  replied,  that  tiic  British  go- 
vernment had  deceived  them  ;  they  were  at  peace  with  the 
Americans  in  1812;  but  they  had  been  excited  to  acts  of" 
hostility ;  at  the  time  that  he  spoke,  they  were  at  war  with 
the  United  States,  having  been  instigated  to  it  by  the  Bri- 
tish, who  then  deserted  them.     He  could  not  believe  that 
it  was  on  account  of  their  stipulations ;  he  summoned  Lhem 
to  fulfil  their  promises,  or  he  must  charge  them  with  fraud 
and  cowardice.    When  he  was  invited  to  settle  in  Canada, 
aiid  assured  of  support  and  maintenance  for  himself  and 
his  band,  he  indignantly  replied,  that  he  required  none  of 
their  support;  he  would  fight,  and  himself  obtain  peace  for 
his  nation,  and  they  would  support  themselves  upon  their 
own  lands.    The  Kapoja  Indians  have  but  one  village, 


8. 


*  This  chief  formed  one  of  the  deputation  who  visited  the  City  of 
Washington  in  July,  1824. 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


335 


which  is  on  ths  Mississippi,  below  the  St  Peter;  they 
hunt  on  the  SL  Croix  river. 

4.  Oanoska  signifies  great  avenue.  Wamcndetanka, 
(War  Eagle,)  their  chief,  was  formerly  a  dependant  on 
Petit  Corbeau.  He  has  but  one  village  on  the  St.  Peter  ; 
he  hunts  on  the  Mississippi,  above  the  Falls  of  St.  An- 
thony. 

5.  Tetankatane,  (old  village.)  This  is  the  oldest  vil- 
lage of  the  Dacotas.  At  the  time  when  Wapasha's  father 
ixiled  over  the  nation,  there  were  four  hundred  lodges 
there.  Wapasha  formerly  lived  in  that  village,  but  hav- 
ing removed  from  it  with  the  greater  part  of  his  warriors, 
a  few  preferred  remaining  there,  and  chose  oue  of  their 
number  as  a  leader.  His  son,  T&k6p£pSsh£n£,  (dauntless,) 
now  rules  over  them.  He  is  considered  a  dependant 
of  the  next  following  chief ;  he  has  but  one  village  on  the 
St.  Peter,  three  miles  above  its  mouth ;  he  hunts  on  this 
river  and  the  Mississippi. 

6.  Taoapa.  The  chief  of  this  party  is  called  Shikpi, 
which  means  six.  He  inherited  his  station,  and  is  a  dis- 
tinguished man,  ranking  in  the  nation  third  only  to  Wa- 
pasha and  Petit  Corbeau.  He  has  but  one  village ;  it  is 
situated  on  the  St.  Peter,  between  which  river  and  the 
Mississippi  he  hunts. 

7.  Weakaot^e.  a  small  band  which  is  dependant  up- 
on the  preceding. 

8.  Meakechakesa  derives  its  name  from  a  point  in  the 
river,  which  has  been  cut  off  and  forms  an  island.  Their 
chief  is  called  Wahkanto,  or  "  blue  spirit ;"  he  rules  by 
right  of  his  family.  His  tribe  has  no  fixed  villages,  no  mud 
or  bark  cabins  like  all  the  preceding  tribes ;  they  reside  all 
the  year  round  in  skin  lodges,  which  they  shift  from  place 
to  pkce.    Their  chief  rendezvous  is  on  the  Blue  Earth 

Vol.  X.  49 


380 


EXPEDITION  TO  THS 


11 

•« 

^fVm 

'  'tl^'-l 

'  ■'*■'  J 

i|i' 

nPR','' 

p 

M 

Ite 

river ;  <hey  hunt  upon  that  stream  in  winter ;  during  the 
summer  season  hey  pursue  the  buffalo  as  far  as  the  Mis* 
souri. 

9.  Wahkpakota,  or  the  "  Shooters  at  leaves,"  which 
they  mistake  for  deer.  Their  last  leader  was  Shakeska, 
(white  nails,)  who  died  in  1822.  This  tribe  has  a  very  bad 
name,  being  considered  to  be  a  lawless  set  of  men.  Sha- 
keska  rose  to  his  station  by  his  military  talents.  They 
have  a  regular  hereditary  chief,  V/iahuga,  (the  raven,)  who 
is  acknowledged  as  such  by  the  Indian  agent,  but  who,  dis- 
gusted by  their  misbehaviour,  withdrew  from  them  and 
resides  at  Wapa'jha's.  This  measure  would  have  been  dis- 
approved of  in  ordinary  cases,  but,  owing  to  the  bad  name 
which  they  have,  he  is  considered  as  justifiable  in  desert- 
ing his  tribe.  They  have  no  fixed  villages;  they  inhabit 
skin  lodges,  and  rove  near  the  head  of  Cannon  and  Blue 
Earth  rivers.  Their  hunting  grounds  are  in  that  vicinity 
and  west  of  it. 

10.  Wahkpatoan,  means  "the  people  beyond  those 
that  si  oot  at  leaves,"  because  they  live  higher  up  on  the 
river.  Nunpakea,  (twice  flying,^  is  the  name  of  their  chief. 
One  of  the  deeds,  by  which  he  has  acquired  respect  as  a 
warrior,  was  achieved  at  the  age  of  twenty.  He  was,  with 
a  party  of  Dacotas,  on  the  lands  of  the  Chippewas,  and  was 
encamped  on  the  edge  of  a  lake ;  an  island  opposite  to  his 
camp  was  occupied  by  a  considerable  party  of  Chippe- 
was J  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  he  swam  over  alone  to 
the  island,  killed  one  of  the  enemies,  scalped  him,  and  re- 
turned unobserved  to  his  friends  with  the  scalp  of  his  ene- 
my. This  tribe  hunts  near  Ottertail  Lake^  one  of  the  sources 
of  Red  river. 

11.  Kahra,  (Wild  rice.)  These  Indians  dwell  in  very 
l^rge  and  fine  skin  lodges.    The  skins  are  well  prepared 


souRCS  OP  ST.  Peter's  riv.^r. 


387 


and  handsomely  painted.  They  have  no  permanent  resi- 
dence, but  frequently  visit  Lake  Travers.  Their  hunting 
grounds  are  on  Red  river.  They  follow  Tatankanaje,  (the 
Standing  Buffalo,)  who  is  a  chief  by  hereditary  right,  and 
who  has  acquired  distinction  as  a  warrior. 

12.  Yanktoanan,  (the  Fern  leaves.)  This  is  one  of  the 
most  important  tribes,  as  its  population  amounts  to  one- 
fifth  that  of  the  whole  nation.  They  have  no  fixed  resi- 
dence, but  dwell  in  fine  skin  lodges,  well  dressed  and  de- 
corated. Their  hunting  grounds  are  ve^^y  extensive,  spread- 
ing from  Red  river  to  the  Missouri.  They  frequent,  for 
purposes  of  trade,  Lake  Travers,  Big  Stone  Lake,  and  the 
Shienne  river.  Their  principal  chief  is  Wanotan,  (the 
Charger,)  of  whom  we  shall  speak  hereafter. 

13.  Yanxtoan,  (descended  from  the  Fern  leaves,)  are 
in  every  respect  similar,  and  probably  separated  from  the 
last  mentioned.  Their  leader,  Tatdnkd  Y6t6shin6,  (he  who 
eats  no  buffalo,)  is  distinguished  both  as  an  hereditary  chief 
and  as  a  warrior.  They  frequent  the  IVHssouri,  and  generally 
traffick  with  the  traders  upon  that  river.  Their  hunting 
grounds  are  east  of,  and  adjoiningr  lo,  the  Missouri. 

14.  Tetoans,  (Braggers.)  According  to  Renville,  this 
tribe  includes  one-half  of  the  Dacotas,  and  it  is  probably 
here  that  his  calculations  are  most  likely  to  be  erroneous. 
They  reside  in  skin  lodges,  and  are  constantly  roving  be- 
tween the  St.  Peter  and  the  Missouri.  They  trade  on  both 
rivers,  and  are  held  to  be  very  hostile  to  white  men ;  they 
are  great  boasters,  and  hence  their  name.  They  are  not 
considered  braver  than  the  other  tribes.  Their  chief, 
Chint^p^td,  (Heart  of  Fire,)  is  a  very  powerful  warrior. 

We  may  add  of  the  Assiniboins,  whom  the  Dacotas  call 
the  Hoha,  (revolted,)  that  they  formerly  belonged  to  the 
tribe  of  the  Yanktoanan.  They  boast  of  having  upwards  of 


V 


388 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


3000  skin  lodges,  of  which  Renville  once  saw  three  hun- 
dred pitched  in  one  place.  Their  gro"nd8  are  north  of  Pem- 
bina towards  the  Assiniboin  river,  '  west  of  Lake  Win- 
nepeek.  They  are  at  war  with  the  *>  jkfeet  Indians,  and 
are  said  to  send  war  parties  every  year,  as  far  as  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  They  have  been  fighting  the  Dacotas  ever 
since  their  separation ;  but  there  ^ecms  to  be  at  present  a 
mutual  tendency  to  a  reunion.  Their  present  chief  rose  by 
his  military  achievements ;  his  name  is  Minayoka,  Knife 
bearer. 

The  cause  of  the  separation  of  the  Assiniboins  from  their 
former  friends  is  variously  related.  The  following  has  ap- 
peared to  us  to  be  the  prevalent  tradition  on  this  subject. 
It  is  said  that,  about  fifty  years*  ago,  a  quarrel  arose  be- 
tween two  influential  families  of  the  Yanktoanans,  at  tlie 
time  that  they  were  hunting  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Tra- 
vers.  A  young  man,  belonging  to  one  of  these  families,  se- 
duced the  wife  of  one  of  the  warriors  of  the  other  family, 
and  conveyed  her  to  his  camp.  The  injured  husband  pur- 
sued them,  and,  in  his  attempt  to  rescue  his  wife,  was  him- 
self slain.  His  father  and  two  brothers,  accompanied  by  two 
of  his  uncles,  went  to  the  seducer's  camp,  with  a  view  to 
obtain  the  corpse  of  their  deceased  relation.  On  their  way 
to  the  camp,  they  met  with  a  party  of  the  friends  of  the 
murderer;  a  quarrel  ensued,  and  three  out  of  the  five  pe- 
rished, without  having  succeeded  in  killing  one  of  their 
opponents.  The  distressed  parent  survived  this  conflict, 
and,  swearing  that  he  would  avenge  his  losses,  he  betook 
himself  to  a  camp  of  his  friends,  stated  his  wrongs,  and  ob- 


♦  The  separation  probably  occurred  at  a  much  earlier  period.  Dates 
are  soon  forgotten  by  Indians.  Hennepin  mentions  a  nation  of  the  Assinj- 
polls,  who  probably  are  the  same.  Charlevoix  calls  them  Asaniboils. 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  Peter's  river. 


S89 


tained  a  party  of  sixty  warriors  who  marched  out  with  him. 
They  proposed  to  the  aggressor's  friends  to  compromise 
the  matter,  by  delivering  over  two  of  their  party  to  the  pa- 
rent;  so  that  he  might  offer  them  as  propitiatory  victims  to 
the  spirits  of  his  four  departed  kinsmen.  This  offer  having 
been  rejected,  a  battle  was  fought,  in  which  the  seducer  lost 
twenty  of  his  party ;  his  opponents  lost  but  five.  It  would 
be  needless  to  go  through  the  long  list  of  engagements 
fought,  or  to  relate  how  each  party,  as  often  as  it  was  van- 
quished, swore  revenge  against  its  enemies,  and  recruited 
itself  among  its  friends.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  breach 
widened;  the  nation  was  divided;  a  long  and  bloody 
civil  war  ensued ;  the  aggressor  and  his  friends  withdrew 
to  the  north,  ceased  to  pay  any  allegiance  to  the  confederacy, 
and  formed  a  new  nation,  to  which  the  term  Hoha,  which 
means  revolted,  was  applied  by  the  Sioux.  The  Chippe- 
was,  who  call  the  Dacota  nation  Boines,  distinguished  the 
insurgents  by  the  term  of  Assini  Boines,  which,  accord- 
ing to  some  interpreters,  means  revolted  Boines,  but  which, 
by  the  greater  number,  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  the 
Chippewa  word  Assin,  which  signifies  stone.  Ever  since 
this  band  has  been  known  under  the  name  of  Assiniboin, 
or  of  Stone  Indians.  Whence  the  Chippewa  derived  this 
last  appellation,  we  know  not ;  but  we  believe  we  have 
been  told,  that  it  was  from  the  frequent  use  of  stones,  as  a 
weapon  of  defence  by  the  Hohas.  Henry  describes  the 
instrument  and  the  manner  of  using  it. 

The  Dacotas  have  no  tradition  of  having  ever  emigrated, 
from  any  other  place,  to  the  spot  upon  whi(,h  they  now  re- 
side ;  they  believe  that  they  were  created  by  the  Supreme 
Being  on  the  lands  which  they  at  present  occupy.  Of  the 
origin  of  white  men  they  have  no  idea,  having  never  re- 
flected upon  the  subject;  they  have  preserved  a  faint  tra- 


390 


l;xp£OiriOM  TO  the 


'.  ■  ■  ■'■■ 

I  'i~ 


ditlon  of  their  first  meeting  with  a  white  man,  but  wha 
this  was,  and  when  it  took  place,  they  arc  unable  to  tell. 
They  believe  that  he  was  a  Frenchman,  and  that  he  was 
first  discovered  by  a  party  of  Mende  Wahkan  toan ;  as 
soon  as  the  Dacotas  saw  him  they  were  much  surprised  at 
his  dress  and  complexion  ;  they  took  him  prisoner,  secured 
him,  and  brought  him  to  their  camp.  He  had  in  his  hand 
a  gun.  By  means  of  signs  they  asked  him  the  use  of  that 
instrument ;  he  pointed  out  to  them  that  with  it  he  could 
take  away  the  life  of  any  object  he  pleased ;  they  then 
placed  a  man  before  him,  challenging  him  to  the  proof  of 
what  he  had  advanced, ;  upon  his  refusal  to  do  it,  they 
placed  a  dog  before  him,  which  he  immediately  shot  and 
killed.  Terrified  at  the  report  of  the  gun,  they  all  ran  off, 
considering  him  as  the  spirit  of  the  thunder ;  as  he  remain- 
ed  there,  they  returned  to  him,  called  him  by  the  name  of 
Thunder,  and  held  him  in  great  awe  and  veneration. 

Their  first  discovery  by  white  men  is  referred  by  Char- 
levoix* to  tLj  year  1660,  when  he  states  that  they  were 
met  by  two  Frenchmen  proceeding  west  from  Lake  Su- 
perior. Father  Hennepin's  visit  to  the  Falls  of  St.  An- 
thony, did  not  take  place  till  upwards  of  twenty  years  af- 
ter this.  Previous  to  Charlevoix's  writings,  the  Dacotas  had 
been  referred  to  a  Chinese  origin.  This  idea  is  supported 
by  Carver,  but  upon  such  weak  analogies  of  language  as  must 
surprise  us,  when  advanced  by  one  who  certainly  was  not 
destitute  of  judgment  and  observation.  Pike  ascribes  to 
them  a  Tartarean  origin,  on  the  ground  of  "  their  guttural 
pronunciation,  their  high  cheek  bones,  their  visages  and 
distinct  manners,  together  with  their  own  traditions,  sup- 
ported by  the  testimony  of  neighbouring  nations." 


*  Hist,  de  la  NouT.  France,  toin.  2.  p.  98. 


aouRCB  or  it.  feter's  biver. 


391 


The  Dacotas  have  a  very  simple  system  of  religion. 
They  believe  in  the  existence  of  a  Supreme  Being,  and  of 
a  number  of  subordinate  ones,  whose  powers,  privileges,  and 
attributes  vary  much.  The  Supreme  Being  is  by  them  called 
Wahkan  Tanka,  or  Great  Spirit  They  worship  him,  consi- 
dering him  as  the  Creator  of  all  things  that  exist,  and  as  the 
Ruler  and  Disposer  of  the  Universe ;  they  hold  him  to  be  the 
source  of  all  good,  and  the  cause  of  no  evil  whatever.  The 
next  spirit  in  respect  to  power,  is  the  Wahkan  Shecha,  or 
bvil  spirit ;  his  influence  is  far  less  extensive  than  that  of 
the  Wahkan  Tanka,  and  it  is  exclusively  exerted  in  the 
performance  of  evil.    He  is  co-eternal  with  the  former,  in- 
capable of  doing  any  good,  the  promoter  of  all  wars,  strifes, 
&c.     Although  partially  under  the  control  of  the  Great 
Spirit,  yet  it  is  not  in  the  power  of  the  latter  entirely  to 
check  him.  Their  third  divinity  is  the  Thunder,  for  which 
they  have  the  greatest  awe.    They  fix  its  residence  to  the 
west,  and  some  believe  it  to  dwell  upon  the  summit  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.     It  is  almost  unnecessary  to  add,  that 
all  thunder  storms  in  that  section  of  the  country,  proceed 
from  the  west   To  each  of  these  spirits  they  extend  their 
worship.  It  has  been  incorrectly  stated  of  the  Dacotas  that 
they  do  not  worship  the  Supreme  Being,  thinking  it  un- 
necessary to  supplicate  an  all-bountiful  power.     On  the 
contrary,  they  oflfer  sacrifices  to  the  Great  Spirit,  in  grati- 
tude for  favours  received.    In  sacrificing  to  the  evil  spirit, 
their  object  is  to  propitiate  him,  to  induce  him  to  avert  his 
anger  from  them,  or  to  extend  to  them  his  support  in  war. 
But  it  is  the  Thunder  which  is  considered  as  the  main 
agent  in  warlike  operations,  and  to  it  do  they  chiefly 
apply  for  victory.    Sacrifices  to  these  three  powers  are  of- 
fered nearly  in  the  same  manner.    They  begin  by  elevat- 
ing a  pipe  towards  the  spirit  He  who  gives  or  ordains  the 


392 


fcSPEDlTlON   TO   THB 


sacrifice,  after  having  addressed  the  being  to  whom  it  is 
offered,  takes  up  the  calumet,  and  raises  the  stem  upwards 
towards  the  sky,  if  it  be  intended  for  the  good  spirit;  if 
for  the  evil  deity,  he  points  the  stem  towards  the  south ;  if 
for  the  thunder,  the  pipe  is  directed  to  the  west.  When  it 
is  intended  that  the  object  sacrificed  shall  remain  exposed 
to  the  atmosphere,  it  is  fastened  upon  a  stake,  which  is  ele- 
vated or  inclined  in  like  manner.  Human  sacrifices  are  not 
known  to  have  ever  been  resorted  to,  except  in  one  in- 
stance abc'it  forty  years  ago.  The  Sioux  had  destroyed 
several  Chippewa  lodges,  and  taken  a  few  women  and  chil- 
dren. Wamendetanka's  father,  who  was  a  partizan  war- 
rior, expressed  his  belief  that  the  sacrifice  of  a  child  would 
ensure  him  good  luck.  Accordingly  he  ofiered  one  to  the 
evil  spirit  to  obtain  success  in  war.  The  child  was  fixed 
upon  a  pole,  which  was  inclined  towards  the  south ;  the 
death  of  the  victim  was  procured  by  tying  a  rope  round 
its  neck.  In  addition  to  these  three  principal  deities,  the 
Dacotas  acknowledge  many  subordinate  ones ;  a  female  spi- 
rit, for  instance,  resides  in  the  sun,  a  male  inhabits  the  moon ; 
both  these  are  connected ;  they  are  considered  as  benevo- 
lent beings.  No  particular  doctrine  prevails,  as  to  the  na- 
ture of  the  stars.  The  sacrifices  of  the  £acotasare  accompa- 
nied with  prayers,  but  not  with  dances.  If  v^ne  of  the  nation 
should  observe  any  object  elevated  by  another  on  a  pole,  as 
a  sacrifice  to  a  spirit,  and  he  be  at  that  time  in  need  of 
the  same,  he  will  not  hesitate  to  take  it,  substituting  some 
tobacco  or  other  offering  in  its  place.  This  is,  however, 
practised  only  with  the  offerings  to  the  inferior  spirits ;  for 
no  Dacota  would  dare  to  remove  that  consecrated  to  the 
Supreme  Being. 

The  ideas  of  the  Dacotas,  respecting  a  future  state,  dif- 
fftr  but  .little  from  those  of  other  Indians ;  and  we  may  re- 


SOURCE  OF  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


393 


ceive  them  with  less  diffidence,  as  they  have  had  but  little 
intercourse  with  missionaries,  whether  Catholic  or  other- 
wise ;  still,  in  some  of  their  credences,  as  related  to  us,  it 
was  impossible  not  to  discover  a  few  of  the  doctrines  of 
Christianity,  which  had  probably  crept  in  unnoticed  b/ 
them.  The  Dacotas  admit  that  there  are  in  man  two  dis- 
tinct essences,  to  which  they  respectively  apply  the  terms 
of  W4nir6  and  W&hk4n,  which  our  interpreters  translate 
by  soul  and  spirit.  They  believe  that  after  death  the  souls 
go  to  the  Wanare  Tebe,  or  dwelling  place  of  the  souls. 
That  in  order  to  reach  it,  they  have  to  pass  over  a  rock, 
the  edge  of  which  is  as  sharp  as  that  of  %  knife ;  those  who 
fall  off  go  to  the  region  of  the  evil  spirit,  where  they  are 
kept  constantly  chopping  wood,  carrying  water,  &c.  being 
frequently  flogged  by  their  relentless  master. 

Those,  on  the  contrary,  that  have  passed  safe  over  the 
rock,  have  a  long  journey  to  travel ;  and  as  they  proceed, 
they  observe  the  camping  places  of  the  souls  that  have 
preceded  them ;  at  these  spots  fires  are  ready  made  Ibl' 
their  accommodation ;  finally,  tliey  reach  the  habiti  ion  of 
the  Wahkan  Tanka,  or  Great  Spirit.  There  they  find  many 
villages  of  the  dead ;  they  meet  with  some  spirits  there, 
who  point  out  to  them  the  way  to  the  residence  of  their 
friends  and  relations,  with  whom  they  are  reunited.  Ti  eir 
life  is  an  easy  and  a  blissful  one,  they  hunt  the  buffalo,  plant 
corn,  &c.  It  is  believed,  that  when  children  are  on  the 
point  of  death,  their  departed  relations  return  from  the 
land  of  souls  in  order  to  convey  them  thither.  Women 
are  liable  to  go  to  either  of  the  places,  but  all  are  entitled  to 
a  situation  in  the  land  of  the  blessed,  except  such  as  have 
violated  their  chastity,  committed  infanticide  or  suicide. 

Their  system  of  Ethics  is  as  simple.  Men  are  held  to 
go  to  the  residence  of  the  Great  Spirit  if  they  be  good  and 

Vol.  I.  50 


394 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


peaceable^  or  if  they  die  by  the  hand  of  their  enemy.  If 
they  perish  in  a  broil  with  their  own  countrymen,  their 
souls  are  doomed  to  the  residence  of  the  Evil  Spirit.  Sui- 
cide is  with  them  attended  with  the  same  penalty  as  with 
women,  but  it  is  of  very  rare  occurrence.  Women  are,  in 
their  opinion,  bound  at  all  times,  whether  single  or  mar- 
ried, to  be  chaste.  If  an  unmarried  female  prove  other- 
wise, she  usually  endeavours  to  conceal  her  shame  by  pro- 
curing abortion ;  this  is  held  to  be  highly  criminal ;  but  it 
is  the  cause  and  not  the  act  of  abortion  which  is  censured ; 
for  married  females  frequently  obtain  miscarriages  with 
the  knowledge  and  consent  of  their  husbands,  and  to  this 
no  objection  is  made.  Widows,  that  prove  with  child, 
seldom  resort  to  the  same  means,  but  they  endeavour  to 
conceal  the  birth  of  their  offspring;  and  this  is  consi- 
dered as  equally  criminal.  Suicide  is  very  common 
among  the  Dacota  women;  they  are  impelled  to  it  by 
extreme  sorrow  and  affliction  ;  but  it  is  held  dishonourable. 
As  most  women  inflict  it  upon  themselves  by  hanging, 
they  are  said  to  go  to  the  regions  of  the  wicked,  dragging 
after  them  the  tree  to  which  they  were  suspended.  This 
fact  has  already  been  recorded  by  Bradbury,  who  adds, 
that  they  are  doomed  for  ever  to  drag  this  tree,  and  that  for 
this  reason  they  always  suspend  themselves  to  as  small  a 
tree  as  can  possibly  sustain  their  weight. 

The  Dacotas  repel  the  charge  of  cannibalism  with  great 
horror ;  they  assert  that  they  have  never  been  guilty  of  it, 
but  charge  their  neighbours  with  the  crime.  Renville 
states,  as  a  circumstance  for  which  he  is  willing  to  vouch, 
that  he  was  piesent  at  the  siege  of  Fort  Meigs,  in  the  year 
1813.  The  fort  was  besieged  by  general  Proctor,  at  the 
head  of  the  British  army,  attended  by  a  corps  of  about 
three  thousand  Indians,  consisting  of  Dacotas,  Potawato- 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


395 


mis,  Miamis,  Ottowas,  Wolves,  Hurons,  Winnebagoes, 
Shawanese,  Sauks,  Foxes,  Menomonies,  &c.  They  had 
all  shared  in  the  battle  except  the  Dacotas,  who  had  not 
yet  engaged  against  the  Americans,  and  who  were  then  on 
their  way  to  Quebec.  While  Renville  was  seated,  one  af- 
ternoon, with  Wapasha  and  Chetanwakoamane,  a  deputa- 
tion came  to  invite  them  to  meet  the  other  Indians,  the 
object  of  the  meeting  not  being  stated;  the  two  chiefs 
complied  with  the  request  Shortly  after,  Frazier,  (an  in- 
terpreter,) came  and  informed  Renville  that  the  Indians 
were  engaged  in  eating  an  American,  and  invited  him  to 
walk  over  to  the  place.  He  went  thither,  and  found  the  hu- 
man flesh  cut  up,  and  portioned  out  into  dishes,  one  for  each 
nation  of  Indians.  In  every  dish,  in  addition  to  the  flesh, 
there  was  corn.  At  that  moment  they  called  upon  the 
bravest  man  in  each  nation,  to  come  and  take  a  portion  of 
the  heart  and  head  ;  one  warrior  from  each  nation  was  al- 
lowed a  fragment  of  this  choice  morsel.  In  the  group  of 
Indians  present,  there  was  a  brave  Dacota,  the  nephew  of 
Chetanwakoamane,  known  by  the  name  of  the  "  Grand 
Chasseur."  They  invited  him  to  step  forward  and  take 
his  share,  and  among  others  a  Winnebago  addressed  him, 
and  told  him  that  they  had  collected  their  friends  to  partake 
of  a  meal  prepared  with  the  fltsh  of  one  of  that  nation  that 
had  done  them  so  much  injury.  Before  the  Sioux  warrior 
had  time  to  reply,  his  uncle  arcse  and  bade  his  nephew 
rise  and  depart  thence ;  he  then  addressed  himself  to 
the  Indians :  "  My  friends,"  said  he,  "  we  came  here,  not 
to  eat  Americans,  but  to  wage  war  against  them ;  that  will 
suffice  for  us ;  and  could  we  even  do  that  if  left  to  our 
own  forces  ?  we  are  poor  and  destitute,  while  they  possess 
the  means  of  supplying  themselves  with  all  that  they  re- 
quire ;  we  ought  not  therefore  to  do  such  things."  His  com* 


396 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


rade,  Wapasha,  added, "  We  thought  that  you,  who  live  near 
to  white  men,  were  wiser  and  more  refined  than  we  are  who 
live  at  a  distance ;  but  it  must  indeed  be  otherwise  if  you 
do  such  deeds  "  They  then  rose  and  departed.  Renville 
is  positive  that  he  could  not  have  been  deceived,  for  it  was 
*he  head,  heart,  both  hands  and  feet  of  a  man  that  he  saw 
in  the  dishes ;  and  he  saw  some  of  the  warriors  partaking 
of  them.  The  British  officers  were  in  their  camp,  and  not 
aware  of  the  transactions  that  were  going  on  among  the 
Indians.  When  informed  of  them  they  expressed  great  dis- 
satisfaction. Col.  Dickson,  having  sent  for  the  Winnebago 
who  had  first  set  this  thing  on  foot,  asked  him  what  could 
impel  him  to  such  horrid  deeds,  when  he  coolly  replied, 
that  it  was  better  for  him  to  do  as  he  did,  than  to  behave 
as  the  Americans  had  done,  who  had  burnt  his  house, 
killed  his  wife  and  daughter,  and  mutilated  their  corpses. 
Col.  Dickson  then  bade  him  depart,  and  never  again  ap- 
pear in  his  presence.  Gen.  Proctor  gave  him  the  same 
directions.  It  appears  that  the  victim  of  this  feast,  whose 
name  we  could  not  ascertain,  was  a  prisoner  of  the  Win- 
nebflgoes,  who  killed  him  with  a  view  to  prepare  the  en- 
tertainment. It  was  not  done  for  want  of  provisions,  for 
at  that  time  the  camp  was  plentifully  supplied ;  neither 
does  it  appear  that,  in  this  case,  it  was  fondness  for  the 
taste  of  human  flesh,  but,  doubtless,  a  desire  to  vent  their 
rage  and  spleen  upon  their  prisoner,  which  induced  them 
to  prepai  e  and  partake  of  this  disgusting  repast.  The  Da- 
cotas  have  always  spoken  of  such  deeds  in  terms  of  the 
highest  reprobation ;  and  we  heard  of  one  case  only  as  hav- 
ing happened  among  them  ;  it  occurred  in  the  year  1811, 
during  a  very  general  famine,  th  ree  women  partook  of  the 
flesh  of  a  man  who  had  previourly  died  of  hunger ;  but  even 
in  this  case  where  they  were  urged  by  a  necessity  which 


SOURCE   OF  ST.   PETER'S  RIVER. 


397 


probably  no  white  man  could  have  resisted,  their  conduct 
was  generally  blamed;  and  two  of  them  having  died  a 
short  time  afterwards,  their  death  was  suj^osed  to  have  been 
brought  on  by  this  food.  The  third  still  lives ;  she  is  re- 
garded with  horrour  by  the  rest  of  the  nation,  who  also 
consider  her  present  state  of  corpulence  as  produced  by 
that  fatal  food ;  they  state  it,  as  their  opinion,  that  she  will 
die  choked  with  the  fat  of  the  man  of  whom  she  ate. 

We  have  heard  some  cases  of  cannibalism  related  of 
them  by  their  neighbours,  but  none  appeared  so  well  sub- 
stantiated as  to  be  entitled  to  belief,  especially  as  the  opi« 
nion  which  we  have  adopted,  is  supported  by  the  uniform 
testimony  of  all  the  travellers  who  have  visited  them,  from 
Hennepin  to  the  present  day.*  ^         ' 

The  treatment  of  their  prisoners,  by  the  Dacotas,  has  ge- 
nerally been  considered  as  kind ;  and  we  find  that  even  as  far 
back  as  the  visit  of  that  traveller,  they  deserved  that  cha- 
racter. Hennepin,  who  certainly  was  much  addicted  to  ex- 
aggeration, and  who  might  have  been  alarmed  at  innocent 
gestures,  the  intention  of  which  he  might  mistake,  has 
given  such  an  account  of  the  treatment  which  he  received 


*It  appears  that  Totnmo,  (the  Dacota  who  gurled  Major  Long*s 
party  from  Prairie  du  Chien,)  told  Mr.  Cothoun  that  he  had  eaten  of 
a  Chippewa,  called  Hahatong ;  he  spoke  of  it  without  any  repug- 
nance,  pointed  to  his  breast,  saying  that  he  had  found  that  part 
to  be  the  most  delicate.  This  appears  to  be  a  solitary  instance, 
and  we  only  mention  it  because  we  wish  to  avoid  th&  charge  of 
concealing  any  fact  that  may  affect  our  general  position,  that  the 
Dacotas  do  not  imitate  their  neighbours  in  this  gratification  of  a  de- 
praved appetite.  Otherwise,  we  should  have  taken  no  notice  of  the 
fact,  as  the  only  interpreter  at  tliat  time  was  George  Wade,  a  youth 
whose  qualifications  in  that  capacity,  both  as  to  the  knowledge  of  the 
language  and  integrity,  we  strongly  suspect. 


39S 


fXPEOITION  TO  THE 


from  them,  as  fully  confirms  our  statement  Their  ene> 
ni-'es  seem  to  place  great  confidence  in  this  virtue  of  theirs, 
as  is  manifest  from  the  following  tran.<Kaction,  which  hap- 
pened about  thirty  years  ago.  A  battle  had  been  fought  on 
Knife  Lake  between  the  Chippewas  and  Dacotas ;  two  hun- 
dred warriors  of  the  latter  had  surprised  and  cut  up  about 
fifteen  of  the  former,  killed  their  wives  and  children 
amounting  to  about  forty,  and  taken  eight  or  ten  prisoners. 
They  then  withdrew  to  the  village  of  Tetankatane  on  the  St. 
Peter,  which  at  that  time  consisted  of  about  three  hundred 
lodges.  They  were  engaged  in  celebrating  their  victory  and 
dancing  the  scalp  dance ;  on  looking  round,  one  of  the  party 
was  surprised  to  behold  a  warrior  painted  all  over  with 
black,  and  marked  with  ten  streaks  of  vermilion  which 
covered  fresh  wounds.  He  was  immediately  recognised  to 
be  a  distinguished  Chippewa  chief,  called  in  his  own  lan- 
guage, Keche  Wabesches,  by  the  Sioux,  Natapa  Hecha, 
both  which  terms  signify  the  Big  Martin ;  it  was  the  same 
chief  who  commanded  the  small  party,  the  defeat  of  which 
they  were  then  celebrating.  Uader  cover  of  a  blanket  he 
had  approached  thus  near  undiscovered,  passed  through  the 
village,  and  it  was  only  when  he  found  himself  in  the  pre- 
sence of  the  warriors,  that  he  dropped  his  mantle.  In  his 
left  hand  he  held  a  calumet  of  peace,  his  right  was  raised 
to  the  heavens,  as  if  calling  for  mercy.  But  his  attitude 
was  firm,  his  manner  imposing  and  undismayed.  He  was 
immediately  seized,  and  made  to  sit  down ;  the  warriors 
formed  a  circle  to  protect  him  against  the  insults  of  the 
women  and  children,  the  weak  and  the  coward,  who  are 
generally  prone  to  triumph  over  the  unprotected.  The  in- 
trusion of  an  enemy,  while  they  were  engaged  at  their  sa- 
cred rites,  was  by  many  considered  a  mortal  offence ;  those 
,  disposed  to  spare  him  sent  word  to  Renville's  father  and 


SOURCS  or  8T.   PETSB'S  RIVES. 


999 


some  other  French  traders,  who  were  encamped  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river ;  by  the  influence  of  the  traders 
he  was  permitted  to  go  over  to  their  oamp  until  his  fate 
should  be  decided.  After  some  deliberation,  they  deter- 
mined upon  sparing  him ;  they  formed  a  large  ring  of  war- 
riv>r8  convened  in  council  and,  having  summoned  the  chiefs 
they  asked  him  what  had  induced  him  to  venture  among 
them ;  he  replied  that,  having  searched  the  field  of  battle 
after  their  departure,  he  had  not  discovered  the  body  of 
his  young  daughter,  who  was  but  five  or  six  years  of  age, 
and  concluding  that  she  was  a  prisoner,  he  had  resolved  to 
come  and  claim  her  from  them;  the  black  colour,  with 
which  he  was  painted,  was  a  symbol  of  his  mortification ; 
his  wounds  were  still  fresh.  The  Dacotas  having  agreed  to 
release  her,  the  prisoners  were  all  brought  up ;  he  immedi- 
ately recognised  his  daughter,  wept  over  her,  and  embrac- 
ed her.  He  remained  two  days  among  them,  and  was  much 
feasted,  the  Dacotas  expressing  the  greatest  admiration  of 
his  valour.  On  his  departure,  they  loaded  his  canoe  with 
presents,  and  one  hundred  of  them  accompanied  him  as  a 
protection,  as  far  as  Rum  river.  During  his  stay  he  ob- 
served the  scalps  of  his  wiie,  brother,  and  other  relations, 
and  pointed  each  out.  When  asked  by  the  warriors  why 
he  had  not  fought  with  the  same  desperate  courage  to  re- 
sist their  attacks,  which  he  had  manifested  when  he  sur- 
prised them  on  the  St  Croix  river?  he  replied,  it  was  not 
his  courage,  but  his  strength  which  had  failed,  he  had 
fought  until  he  fell  senseless,  being  wounded  in  many  places 
both  by  arrows  and  fire-arms. 

Instances  exist,  however,  in  which  the  Dacotas  have 
killed  their  prisoners  of  war,  and  in  some  cases,  long  after 
they  had  been  taken.    Thus,  for  example's  sake,  it  is  re- 


400 


JCXPEOmON    TO   TH£ 


lated  of  the  mother  of  Takopepeshene,  that  she  once  killed 
a  young  Chippewa  girl  -^hom  she  had  adopted  as  her 
daughter  four  or  five  years  before.  This  she  did  to  avenge 
the  death  of  her  nephews,  who  hud  been  killed  by  the 
Chippewas;  this  occurrence  took  place  in  1807;  and  some 
of  the  circumstances  attending  the  engagement  between  the 
two  nations,  exhibit  the  great  animosity  which  prevails 
between  the  Chippewas  and  Dacotas.  The  latter  had,  it 's 
said,  ascended  Chippewa  river  on  a  hunting  excursion,  un- 
der the  command  of  Shakea,  the  Redwing  chief,  when 
their  leader  informed  them  that  he  had  dreamed  of  the 
near  approach  of  their  enemy.  This  prediction  was  un- 
heeded, but  the  subsequent  night,  at  about  two  o'clock,  the 
camp  was  assaulted  by  the  Chippewas,  who  gained  some 
advantage  over  the  Dacotas ',  finding  them,  however,  more 
numerous  than  they  had  anticipated,  the  Chippewas  with- 
drew, leaving  the  field  to  them.  The  Dacotas  pursued  and 
overtook  them  on  an  island  covered  with  aspen ;  they  fired 
the  woods ;  the  conflagration  spreading  over  the  island, 
many  of  the  Chippewas  perished.  It  is  stated  that  the 
Sioux  boys  afterwards  amused  themselves  in  cutting  off 
the  lower  joint  of  the  fingers  of  the  slain,  as  well  as  strips 
of  skin  from  their  arms,  and  of  these  they  made  necklaces, 
&c. 

The  difficulties,  misfortunes,  and  ill-treatment  which  at- 
tend prisoners  among  Indian  nations,  as  well  as  the  equa- 
nimity and  perseverance  which  they  manifest  in  order  to 
effect  a  rescue,  appear  almost  incredible  to  those  who  are 
unacquainted  with  the  Indian  character,  yet  there  can  be  no 
doubt  in  the  minds  of  those  who  have  made  a  study  of  it. 
The  following  narrative  of  the  perils  and  adventures  of  a 
Yankton  woman,  whom  we  saw  near  Lak^  Travers,  has 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   PSTER's   RIVER. 


401 


been  related  to  us  under  circumstances,  which  have  al- 
most banished  scepticism,  although  it  at  first  appears  mi- 
raculous. 

Her  name  was  Shiniiiskd,  or  the  White  Buffalo  Robe. 
When  we  saw  her,  she  was  about  seventy  years  of  age. 
She  relates  that,  in  her  youth,  while  yet  under  twenty,  she 
was  taken  captive  by  a  party  of  Chippewas ;  the  man  to 
whose  lot  she  fell  was  cruel  and  relentless ;  among  other 
hardships,  he  obliged  her  to  walk  naked,  for  three  days,  be- 
fore the  whole  party ;  and  whenever,  from  fatigue,  she 
slackened  her  pace,  she  was  scourged  by  her  captors.  At 
last,  on  the  third  day,  they  reached  a  stream  where,  fan- 
cying themselves  secure  from  all  pursuit,  they  prepared  to 
sojourn  some  time,  and  that  evening  she  was  doomed  to 
undergo  a  still  more  barbarous  treatment,  when  a  Chippe- 
wa warrior  came  in,  whose  mind  was  more  generous  than 
that  of  the  others ;  he  declared  himself  her  protector,  and 
said  he  would  adopt  her  as  his  daughter.  Whether  from 
his  influence  as  a  brave  mLn,  or  from  his  decisive  manner, 
or  from  some  other  motive  she  knows  not,  but  she  was  re- 
linquished, though  reluctantly, by  her  former  master;  and 
her  adopted  father  conveyed  her  to  his  family,  which  was 
far  to  the  north.  In  the  autumn  they  returned  towards 
the  Dacota  lands  in  pursuit  of  buffalo.  Although  the  treat- 
ment which  Shenanska  had  received  from  her  adopted  fa- 
ther was  mild,  yet  her  life  was  rendered  unpleasant  by 
his  wife,  who  used  her  in  an  unfeeling  manner.  Con- 
sidering the  infant  child  of  the  Chippewa  mother  to  be,  in 
part  at  least,  the  cause  of  her  troubles,  Shenanska  deter- 
mined to  destroy  it,  and  on  one  occasion,  while  both  parents 
w^ere  away,  she  stabbed  it  in  the  side  with  a  moccassin 
awl.    The  infant  immediately  expired ;  she  replaced  it  in 

Vol.  I.  51 


'H)4 


ilXFUDrriON   TO    THB 


its  craiUe.  When,  on  her  return  to  the  lodge,  the  mother 
saw  her  child  in  the  cradle,  she  inquired  if  it  had  been 
long  sleeping,  Shenanska  replied  in  the  affirmative. 
Having  gone  nearer  to  the  infant  and  discovered  that  it 
was  dead,  although  she  did  not  observe  the  wound,  the 
mother  instantly  seized  an  axe,  and  struck  a  blow  on  She- 
nanska's  head,  who  fell  into  a  swoon.  The  blow  was  not  a 
mortal  one,  she  soon  recovered  from  the  effects  of  it,  and 
having  determined  to  make  her  escape,  succeeded  in  leav- 
ing the  lodge  unobserved.  She  travelled  towards  the 
lands  of  her  countrymen,  and  after  eleven  days  of  a  fati- 
guing march,  during  which,  she  at  one  time  suffered  so 
much  from  hunger,  that  she  was  forced  to  feed  upon  bits 
of  skin  and  leather,  collected  at  a  deserted  encampment, 
she  found  herself  in  sight  of  her  native  Coteau,  and  was  flat- 
tering herself  with  the  hope  of  soon  meeting  with  a  party  of 
her  friends,  when  she  fell  in  with  a  band  of  Assiniboins, 
mortal  enemies  to  her  tribe.  From  these  she  would  have 
met  with  instant  death,  had  not  their  chief  interfered  in 
her  favour.  By  him  she  was  treated  kindly,  but  after  re- 
maining a  day  in  his  camp,  he  advised  her  to  make 
her  esca,je,  as  otherwise  she  must  fall  a  victim  to  the  re- 
sentment of  the  party.  He  supplied  her  with  provisions, 
a  horse,  anc*  every  thing  she  might  require  for  the  route. 
Again  she  started  on  a  solitary  journey,  which  lasted  forty 
days,  when  she  met  her  friends.  On  approaching 'their 
camp,  her  appearance  was  so  much  altered  that  they  knew 
her  not  Her  own  father  hesitated  in  recognising  her  as  his 
daughter;  at  last,  when  she  spoke  and  mentioned  her  name, 
her  friends  all  collected  around  her,  while  she  related  to 
them  her  adventures ;  after  she  had  finished  her  narrative, 
her  father  seized  his  knife  and  stabbed  himself,  in  testimony 


SOURCE   OF  ST.   PETEr's   RIVER, 


403 


of  the  grief  he  experienced  at  all  she  had  sufTered.  A 
mode  of  expressing  sympathy  for  past  troubles  which^ 
however,  is  not  common  among  Indians. 

The  Dacotas  appear  to  take  but  little  pains  in  ihe  edu- 
cation of  their  children ;  they  follow  no  regular  system. 
What  the  children  learn,  on  the  subject  of  their  religious 
opinions  and  traditions,  is  collected  gradually,  aud  alto- 
gether in  the  course  of  unpremeditated  conversations.  The 
only  attention  which  they  receive  is  towards  the  develop- 
ment of  those  qualifications,  both  of  mind  and  body,  which 
shall  enable  them  to  make  active  hunters  and  dauntless 
warriors.  To  rise  early,  to  be  enured  to  fatigue,  to  hunt 
skilfully,  to  undergo  hunger  without  repining,  are  the  only 
points  to  which  the  Dacota  thinks  it  important  to  attend  in 
the  education  of  his  children.  Corrections  are  never  re- 
sorted to,  they  are  never  flogged ;  indeed,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  occasionally  throwing  cold  water  upon  them,  to 
make  them  rise  in  the  morning,  they  never  resort  to  any 
authoritative  measures,  all  which  they  consider  as  cruel 
and  unnatural.  Their  fondness  for  their  children  is  ex- 
treme, especially  that  of  mothers  for  their  daughters.  It  is 
not  an  uncommon  thing,  to  see  a  mother  carry  water,  hew 
wood,  and  undergo  much  fatigue,  to  spare  it  to  her  daugh- 
ters. This  is  especially  the  case  with  the  mothers  of  those 
young  Indian  females,  whom  the  traders  take  as  their  com- 
panions. It  does  not  appear  that  the  daughters  feel  the  least 
compunction  at  the  trouble  which  their  parents  undergo ; 
they  consider  it  all  as  a  matter  of  course,  being  doubtless 
prepared  to  go  through  the  same  drudgery  for  their  chil- 
dren when  they  shall  require  it 

No  event  appears  of  more  importance  to  a  Dacota  pa- 
rent than  the  bestowing  of  a  name  upon  his  offspring.  It 
is  attended  with  much  ceremony  ]  a  large  feast  or  sacrifice 


404 


EXPEDITION  TO   THK 


is  prepared ;  the  relations  and  friends  arc  invited.  Ti)e 
name  which  is  ^iven  is  generally  one  derived  from  some 
visible  object  in  the  heavens  or  earth.  The  infant  is  made 
to  support  a  pipe,  the  stem  of  which  is  directed  towards 
Wie  object  from  which  the  name  is  taken  ;  a  sacrifice  is 
offered  to  the  spirit  which  is  supposed  to  reside  in  that 
object.  These  sacrifices  are  extensive  and  costly,  they 
consist  of  dogs  and  other  animals,  of  skins,  of  scarlet  cloth, 
tobacco,  &c.  It  appears  to  us  well  established  that  this 
was  originally  an  Indian  institution,  and  not,  as  we  at  first 
apprehended,  a  mere  imitation  of  the  rejoicings  which 
among  some  Christian  sects  attend  the  ceremony  of  naming 
a  child.  We  are  told  of  some  Indian  nations  endeavour- 
ing to  stimulate  their  youths  into  dreams,  visions,  &c.*  but 
this  has  not  appeared  to  us  to  be  the  case  with  the  Dacotas ; 
when  dreams  do  occur  they  are  held  to  be  favours,  and 
much  importance  is  attached  to  them,  but  no  attempt  is 
made  to  give  rise  to  them. 

Polygamy  is  allowed,  and  no  regulations  whatever  exist 
upon  this  subject ;  it  appears  to  be  rather  tolerated  than  en- 
couraged; every  man  follows  his  inclination  upon  that 
point,  and  is  esteemed  neither  more  nor  less  on  account  of 
the  nuni'ier  of  his  wives,  or  children.  It  is  prohable  that 
most  men  have  more  than  one,  though  few  have  many  wives. 
The  Dacotas  destroy  neither  their  children  nor  their  «ld 
relations ;  to  the  latter  their  conduct  is  perhaps  not  as  kind 
and  attentive  as  it  ought  to  be  ;  but  they  make  up  for  it  by 
their  attachment  to  their  children,  who  receive  care  and 
kind  treatment  in  proportion  to  their  wants.  The  practice 
of  shaping  the  heads  of  infants  is  unknown  to  them. 


*  Transactions  of  the  Historical  and  literary  Committee  of  the  Ame- 
rican Philosophical  Society.    Philadelphia,  1819,  vol.  I.  p.  238. 


SOURCE    OF    ST.    PETER*S    RIVER. 


40.') 


The  Dacotas  have  prophets  among  them,  hut  none  that  are 
so  distinguished  as  those  of  the  Shawanesc.  They  are  always 
prepared  to  oppose  the  incredulous  with  several  stories,  or 
anecdotes,  to  which  they  assert  that  they  were  in  most 
cases  witnesses.  It  would  be  vain  to  attempt  to  convince 
them  of  their  error  on  this  point,  probably  because  they 
are  pleased  with  it,  and  are  in  no  manner  desirous  of  be- 
ing convinced  that  it  is  but  a  delusion.  Even  the  half- 
breed  interpreters  share  in  this  belief;  at  least  they  profess 
themselves  unable  to  account  otherwise  for  the  success  that 
attends  those  propliecies.  In  relating  two  or  three  of  these 
stories,  we  deem  it  unnecessary  for  us  to  premise  them,  by 
stating  that  we  are  not  believers  in  them,  as  Carver  ap- 
pears to  have  been  in  the  prophecies  of  his  friend,  the 
Chief  Priest  of  the  Killistinoes,  but  that  we  merely  recite 
them  in  order  to  show  how  far  credul  ty  will  extend. 

About  twenty  years  ago,  a  larg,e  party  of  Indians,  col- 
lected near  Lake  Travers,  were  quite  destitute  of  tobacco ; 
not  knowing  how  to  procure  any,  they  applied  to  Tatan- 
kanaje,  (Standing  Buffalo,)  a  prophet  of  some  distinction, 
and  the  uncle  of  the  present  chief  of  the  Kahras.  This 
man  usually  carried  about  him  a  little  stone  idol,  carved 
into  a  human  shape ;  this  he  called  his  little  man,  and  to 
it  he  always  applied  when  consulted  in  the  way  of  his 
profession.  Tatankanaje  being  requested  to  advise  the  best 
means  of  obtaining  tobacco,  made  answer  to  them,  that 
if  they  would  go  to  a  certain  place,  which  he  pointed  out 
to  them,  they  would  find  hi3  idol,  and  by  examining  it 
they  would  observe  in  its  hand  a  piece  of  tobacco.  They 
did  as  he  bade  them,  and  found  in  the  little  fellow's  hand, 
a  piece  about  four  inches  long ;  this  was  brought  to  the 
camp,  and  was  thought  to  redound  much  to  the  credit  both 
of  the  prophet  and  the  idol ;  but  Tat&nkanuje  then  observ- 


406 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


ed,  that  he  would  consult  the  little  man,  and  ascertain 
where  he  had  found  the  tobac  lo,  and  how  he  came  by  it. 
This  he  did  by  putting  interrogatories  to  him,  to  which  he 
pretended  that  audible  answers  were  returned,  though  of 
the  many  present,  not  one  heard  them  beside  himself. 
The  purport  of  these  answers,  however,  as  he  subsequent- 
ly informed  them  was,  that  at  a  spot  on  the  St  Peter,  near 
to  Redwood  river,  there  was  a  boat,  loaded  with  goods ; 
that  her  commander,  a  French  trader,  having  been  mur- 
dered by  the  Sioux,  the  crew  had  been  alarmed,  and  had 
run  away,  leaving  the  boat  unguarded,  together  with  her 
cargo,  consisting  principally  of  tobacco ;  that  the  little  man 
had  seen  her,  and  finding  a  piece  of  tobacco  on  a  keg,  had 
brought  it  up.  The  prophet  having  invited  them  to  seek 
for  it,  they  repaired  to  the  spot,  found  the  boat,  took  the 
tobacco,  and  returned  the  rest  of  the  goods  to  the  first 
French  traders  that  passed  up  the  river.  This  e\ent  hap- 
pened, as  we  were  informed,  in  the  presence  of  Renville 
and  Frenieres,  two  French  traders  of  reputation,  both  con- 
sidered as  intelligent  and  enlightened  men ;  they  were  the 
fathers  of  the  two  half-breed  traders  with  whom  we  were 
acquainted.  The  story  is  given  with  all  the  particulars 
that  might  be  wished  for ;  the  name  of  the  owner  of  the 
boat  was  Benjamin  La  Goterie,  a  name  well  known  in  that 
country.  The  story  has  been  current  ever  since.  The 
traders,  who  appear  to  credit  it,  state  that  it  was  impossi- 
ble for  the  prophet  to  have  visited  the  spot  and  returned 
without  his  absence  being  known,  as  the  distance  exceeds 
one  hundred  miles ;  from  whom  he  received  his  intelli- 
gence they  never  knew.  As  to  the  Dacotas  themselves, 
they  never  considered  it  possible  that  it  might  be  a  knavery 
of  the  prophet's,  but  attributed  it  altogether  to  his  "  mys- 
tic lore." 


SOURCE   OF   ST.   P£T2R's  BIVER. 


407 


On  another  occasion,  Tatankanaje  acquired  great  re- 
putation in  consequence  of  a  prediction  that  he  would  lead 
a  war  party ;  that  on  the  day  which  he  appointed,  and  at  a 
particular  spot,  which  he  described,  be  would  fall  in  with 
a  camp  of  fifteen  Assiniboin  lodges,  that  he  would  attack 
and  defeat  them,  kill  a  certain  number  of  the  enemy,  and 
make  a  stated  amount  of  prisoners  ;  he  predicted  in  like 
manner  the  loss  of  lives,  which  would  attend  this  victory. 
The  event  justified,  as  it  is  said,  the  prediction ;  not  only, 
as  to  the  general  results,  but  even  as  to  the  circumstances 
of  time,  place,  number  of  killed  and  wounded  on  both 
sides,  and  amount  of  prisoners  taken  from  the  enemy.  Of 
course,  so  valuable  a  prophet  was  constantly  resorted  to, 
for  the  recovery  of  stolen  property,  or  of  goods  that  were 
lost,  for  a  knowledge  of  the  fate  of  persons  that  were  tra- 
velling, for  the  cure  of  diseases,  and  for  all  such  other  im- 
portant points,  upon  which  the  credulity  both  of  civilized 
and  savage  man  induces  them  to  lend  a  willing  ear  to  the 
impositions  of  knaves.  Of  his  talent  in  recovering  pro- 
perty, we  regret  that  we  can  only  mention  a  circumstance 
in  which  the  object  at  stake  was  very  trifling.  Some  one 
had  ventured  to  steal  away  the  prophet^s  bridle ;  it  was 
concealed  in  a  lodge  that  formed  one  in  a  camp  of  one  hun- 
dred lodges.  The  prophet  took  a  mirror  in  his  hand  and 
walked  round  the  village,  until,  as  he  said,  he  saw  the  lost 
bridle  reflected  in  his  mirror;  he  entered  the  adjoining 
lodge  and  recovered  his  property. 

Not  only  they  prophecy,  but  they  perform  tricks  of 
legerdemain,  all  which  they  ascribe  to  the  success  of  their 
incantations.  We  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Charles  Hess,  a 
French  trader,  with  whom  Mr.  Say  had  several  confer- 
ences at  Fort  St  Anthony,  for  the  account  of  a  trick  per- 
forr.ed  by  an  Assiniboin.    The  magician  asserted,  in  Mr. 


408 


EXPEDITION   TO    THE 


Hess'  presence,  as  well  as  in  tliat  of  many  Indians,  that 
he  could  cause  water  to  flow  into  an  emptv  keg,  though  he 
might,  at  that  time,  be  upon  a  dry  prairie,  and  at  a  dis- 
tance from  any  spring  or  streaiR.'  Mr.  Hess  having  told 
him  that  he  did  not  believe  him,  but  that,  if  he  succeeded, 
he  would  give  him  a  keg  of  whiskey,  the  Indian  ofiered  to 
repeat  the  trick.  He  exhibited  to  them  his  keg,  which 
they  examined,  and  all  judged  to  be  empty.  The  bung  was 
removed,  the  cask  turned  over,  and  no  liquid  issued  from 
it.  The  Indian  then  commenced  his  incantations,  raising 
his  keg  towards  the  heavens,  dancing  and  performing 
many  unmeaning  gestures ;  after  which  he  presented  it  to 
the  Indian  chief  that  was  present,  bidding  him  to  drink  of 
the  water  which  it  contained ;  the  latter  drank  of  it,  found 
it  very  good,  and  passed  it  to  his  neighbour ;  the  cask  was 
circulated,  to  the  great  satisfaction  of  all  the  Indians  who 
drank  of  its  contents,  and  even  Mr.  Hess  was  convinced 
that  the  keg  really  held  pure  water.  He  was,  however,  un- 
able to  detect  the  deception,  but  supposed,  that  a  bladder 
filled  with  water  had  been  fastened  within  the  keg,  and 
that,  owing  to  the  agitation  communicated  to  it,  the  blad- 
der had  been  burst  by  means  of  spikes  driven  into  the 
ends  of  the  keg,  for  that  purpose ;  and  that  in  this  manner  the 
water  had  been  diffused  throughout  the  keg.  The  magi- 
cian claimed  and  obtained  his  reward;  but  when  alone 
with  him,  Mr.  Hess  charged  him  with  being  an  impostor, 
and  told  him  the  manner  in  which  he  suspected  that  the 
trick  had  been  performed.  The  magician  confessed  the 
truth  of  Mr.  Hess'  statement,  but  begged  tliat  he  would  not 
disclose  it  to  the  Indians. 

The  person  who  communicated  this  fact  to  us,  is  one  of 
the  most  respectable  traders  whom  we  have  seen ;  at  tlie 
time  that  we  met  with  him  he  was  in  great  distress,  owing 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


409 


fo  the  recent  loss  of  part  of  his  family,  aggravated  by  a 
very  painful  calculous  disease  under  which  he  was  then  la- 
bouring, and  which  had  induced  him  to  visit  the  fort  in 
hopes  of  obtaining  relief  from  the  surgeon  of  the  garri- 
son. 

Having  always  traded  with  'the  Chippewas,  married 
Rmong  them,  and  been  considered  as  connected  with  them, 
he  had  entcrtaine  \  great  apprehensions  of  the  Dacotas ;  for 
the  Indians  generally  extend  to  those  that  trade  with  their 
enemies  the  same  animosity  which  they  bear  to  those  na- 
tions. About  a  year  before  the  time  when  we  saw  him,  he 
was  residing  at  Pembina  on  Red  river.  Provisions  became 
so  scarce  at  that  place,  that  the  settlers  were  reduced  to 
live  upon  lettuce  seasoned  with  salt;  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  of  them  had  gone  out  to  hunt  buffalo,  and  he  at 
last  resolved  to  go  and  join  them,  with  four  of  the  settlers 
and  his  family,  consisting  of  two  daughters.  They  had  tra- 
velled five  days  across  the  prairie,  killing  game  enough 
for  a  bare  subsistence,  and  keeping  a  constant  guard  for 
fear  of  being  surprised  by  the  Yanktons,  who  rove  over 
those  prairies.  The  extent  to  which  he  carried  his  pre- 
cautions shows  the  deep  presentiment  which  oppressed  him 
at  the  time ;  often,  as  he  informed  us  himself,  after  his 
party  had  passed  over  the  top  of  a  gentle  swell  or  little 
elevation  in  the  prairie,  he  would  cause  them  to  halt,  while 
he  would  turn  back,  and  crawl  along  the  ground  to  the  top  of 
the  hill,  then,  raising  his  head  above  the  surface,  concealing 
it  at  the  same  time  behind  a  little  grass  which  he  had  cut 
for  the  purpose,  observe  whether  there  were  Indians  to  be 
seen  in  any  direction.  His  friends  ridiculed  his  fears,  and 
two  of  them  separated  from  him,  but  the  event  proved 
how  well-founded  his  apprehensions  were.  On  the  6th  day 
his  horse  having  broken  the  halter  by  which  he  was  fast- 

VoL.  I.  52  ,  '      . 


410 


EXPEDITION    TO   TH£ 


ened,  Mr.  Hess  left  the  camp  in  search  of  him,  and  soon 
caught  him ;  his  companions,  at  that  moment,  observed  two 
buffaloes  on  the  prairie,  and,  as  his  horse  was  the  fleetsst, 
they  called  out  to  him  to  chase  them ;  he  did  so,  and  was 
for  a  while  separated  from  his  party.  In  leaving  the  en- 
campment, the  anxious  parent  advised  them  to  be  watch- 
ful, and  it  was  with  the  utmost  reluctance  that  he  separat- 
ed from  them.  While  he  was  killing  the  buffalo,  a  dog 
came  up  to  him ;  this  excited  his  suspicions ;  he  followed 
the  dog  back,  and,  after  a  long  ride  across  the  prairie,  came 
to  a  small  valley  where  he  observed  his  cart,  and  flattered 
himself  with  meeting  with  his  family.  On  approaching,  his 
consternation  was  exti-eme,  when  he  saw  one  of  his  com- 
panions feathered  with  arrows,  scalped,  and  his  feet  sepa- 
rated from  his  legs.  A  little  further  lay  his  daughter,  mur- 
dered, and  with  a  knife  still  lodged  in  her  breast ;  with 
streaming  eyes,  he  withdrew  it,  but  it  was  too  late,  she 
was  lifeless.  He  in  vain  rode  three  times  round  the  place, 
in  search  of  his  other  daughter,  he  could  find  no  trace  of 
her.  At  some  distance  he  discovered  the  corpse  of  his  other 
companion  likewise  pierced  with  arrows.  • 

The  distracted  parent  remained  for  a  while  unable  to  re- 
solve in  his  mind  what  course  he  ought  to  pursue ;  he  at- 
tempted to  dig  a  grave  for  the  unfortunate  victims,  but  be- 
ing only  provided  with  a  knife,  he  soon  gave  up  this  at- 
tempt as  a  vain  one  *,  he  then  determined  to  leave  his  dog 
to  watch  the  corpses,  and  to  return  to  Pembina  for  assist- 
ance. We  cannot  dwell  upon  the  sad  particulars  of  the 
feelings  and  sufferings  of  the  agonized  father,  as  he  left  the 
body  of  one  of  his  daughters,  swearing  that  he  wo'jld  fol- 
low, even  into  the  camp  of  his  enemies,  his  other  offspring 
who,  he  still  hoped,  might  have  survived  this  calamity. 
After  three  days  and  nights  spent  in  travelling  on  foot, 


SOUBCB   OP  ST     PETER'S  RIVER. 


411 


without  either  rest  or  food,  he  at  last  reached  Pembina. 
On  hearing  his  sad  tale,  the  inhabitants  were  so  much  pa- 
nic-struck, that  none  at  the  settlement  would  venture  with 
him  in  the  prairie  to  inter  his  friends,  and  remove  his  cart 
and  other  property.    Hearing,  however,  that  his  surviving 
daughter  was  in  one  of  the  Yankton  villages,  he  set  out 
with  the  desperate  resolution  of  recovering  her  or  perish- 
ing in  the  attempt.  At  the  termination  of  another  arduous 
journey  across  the  prairie,  he  reached  the  camp  and  was 
met  by  many  Yanktons,  one  of  whom,  a  tall  athletic  man^  in- 
quired of  him  whether  he  was  a  friend  or  foe ;  "  You  know 
me,"  said  Charles  Hess,  "  as  your  foe ;  you  know  me  by 
the  name  of  the  Standing  Bull;  you  know  you  have  kill- 
ed one  of  my  daughters  and  taker<  the  other  prisoner." 
The  Indian  stepped  backwards  ani  pointed  his  arrow  at 
him;  Mr.  Hess  levelled  his  gun  at  his  opponent   The  Da- 
cota seeing  this,  relaxed  his  bow  and  extended  his  hand  to 
him.    The  Indians  all  complimented  him  upon  his  valour; 
they  invited  him  to  feast  at  most  of  the  lodges.     He  saw 
his  daughter;  she  informed  him  that  she  had  been  kindly 
treated,  and  that  her  master  was  unwilling  to  part  with 
Jier.    Two  horses  were  offered  for  her  release  by  some  In- 
dians of  a  neighbouring  nation,  who  were  passing  that  way, 
and  who  were  friendly  to  Hess ;  these  were  refused ;  four 
horses  were  in  like  manner  offered  and  refused.     At  last 
her  master  consented  to  release  her  for  the  following  ran- 
som, viz.  two  fathoms  of  scarlet  cloth,  two  white  blankets, 
two  fathoms  of  blue  strouding,  a  chief's  coat,  a  tin  kettle, 
two  guns,  one  pair  of  fine  pistols,  a  framed  looking-glas? 
and  a  paper  one,  two  knives,  six  double  handfuls  of  gun- 
powder, two  hundred  bullets,  and  a  quantity  of  blue  beads. 
So  high  a  ransom  fell  heavy  upon  this  poor  man,  who 
had  lost  his  little  all  at  the  same  time  that  his  daughter  was 


413 


EXPEDITION   TO   TH£ 


taken  prisoner ;  he  had  to  resort  to  the  other  traders  fo' 
assistance ;  and  they  bestowed  it  upon  him  with  that  gene- 
rous sympathy  which  is  more  easily  found  among  rude  and 
uncivilized  men  than  among  the  more  refined.  They  sup- 
plied him  with  goods  on  a  long  credit ;  with  these,  he  re- 
turned to  the  camp,  and  ransomed  his  daughter,  who,  while 
he  was  relating  this  sad  tale  to  us,  was  sitting  by,  engaged 
in  decorating  a  piece  of  leather  with  porcupine  quills,  a 
work  in  which  the  Chippewas  excel.  A  circumstance 
which  we  believe  added  to  the  distress  of  the  parent,  was 
that  he  found  some  difficulty  in  prevailing  upon  his  daugh- 
ter to  leave  the  Yanktons ;  she  had  been  so  kindly  treated 
that  she  cared  but  little  about  returning  to  her  own  father. 
We  have  not  learned  in  what  light  she  was  considered, 
whether  as  a  prisoner,  or  as  an  adopted  daughter. 

The  uniform  but  laborious  life,  which  these  Indians  lead, 
protects  them  against  many  of  the  diseases  incident  up- 
on civilization,  though  it  at  the  same  time  exposes  them 
to  some  direful  complaints,  which  their  total  ignorance  of 
the  healing  art,  and  their  superstitious  confidence  in  their 
magicians,  prevent  them  from  curing.  Among  the  dis- 
eases which  are  said  to  be  unknown  to  the  Dacotas,  may 
be  ranked  the  following,  viz.  intermittent  fevers  in  the 
prairies  which  are  distant  from  the  Mississippi,  and  proba- 
bly even  in  those  which  border  upon  that  river  above  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  Plica  Polonica,  baldness,  (?)  nym- 
phomania, spina  bifida  and  St  Vitus's  dance,  scurvy,  coup 
de  soleil,  chlorosis,  and  leucorrhoea.  Among  those  which 
are  known,  but  which  are  of  very  rare  occurrence,  we  will 
mention  jaundice,  decayed  teeth,  and  tooth-ache ;  in  denti- 
tion children  suffer  much ;  in  such  cases  the  gum  is  never 
cut,  but  the  children  are  allowed  smooth  stones  and  other 
hard  substances  to  rub  against  their  gums.   As  a  palliative 


SOURCE  or  ST.  Peter's  river. 


41S 


for  tooth-ache  the  root  of  the  Gerardria  is  not  unfrequently 
applied.  Hydrophobia  is  prevented  by  cutting  out  the 
wounded  part.  Dysentery  is  not  common ;  it  is  cured  by 
the  free  use  of  sassafras.  Deafness  is  rare,  and  deaf  and 
dumb  cases  are  exceedingly  scarce.  Their  most  prevalent 
disease  is  hepatitis,  which  is  hereditary  and  very  frequent. 
They  use  for  its  cure  the  oil  of  rattlesnakes  and  of  other 
serpents,  they  say  with  some  benefit ;  but  Renville  informed 
us  that  he  had  never  seen  a  person  affected  with  it,  that 
was  cured.  Frozen  limbs  are  common,  and  are  sometimes 
lost.  They  have  been  cured  by  the  use  of  a  plant  known 
by  the  traders  under  tlie  name  of  the  Viiiaigrter,  or  Vinegar 
Plant.  The  Dacotas  resist  cold  much  better  than  white 
men.  Hypochondriasis  is  very  common ;  it  affects  them 
as  it  does  white  men ;  they  attempt  no  other  remedy  but 
songs  and  dances.  A  woman,  that  was  once  a£fected  with 
it,  imagined  that  nothing  would  relieve  her  but  cold  water; 
she  jumped  into  a  stream  where  the  water  was  only  two 
feet  deep,  and  she  was  drowned.  Hernia  is  known,  but 
not  cured.  Hysteria  is  also  known.  For  dropsy  they 
have  no  remedy.  Diseases  of  the  breast  are  very  common, 
and  are  attributed  to  their  constant  smoking.  Rickets  occur 
in  children,  in  which  case  they  receive  a  great  deal  of 
nursing.  Syphilis  appears  to  have  been  communicated 
to  the  Dacotas  by  white  men,  and  through  the  women 
who  had  intercourse  with  them ;  this  disease  was  to- 
tally unknown  to  those  residing  on  the  St  Peter,  previr 
ous  to  the  establishment  of  the  garrison  at  Fort  St.  An- 
thony ;  and  it  is  generally  believed,  that  the  first  case 
amonf^  them  was  that  of  Tommo,  (our  guide,)  who  was  in- 
fected with  it  at  Prairie  du  Chien.  The  small-pox  was 
in  like  manner  originally  unknown  to  them,  but  it  has 


414 


KXPEDITIOy   TO   TU£ 


/       -- 


proved  very  destructive,  at  different  times,  since  their  in- 
tercourse with  white  men ;  it  exerted  its  influence  very 
fatally  about  fifteen  years  ago ;  among  the  many  instances 
of  its  baneful  extension,  it  is  related  that,  at  that  time,  of 
forty  or  fifty  individuals  who  resided  in  five  lodges,  only 
one  survived  this  plague.  The  Dacotas  appear  to  enter- 
tain no  prejudice  against  the  use  of  the  vaccine  matter ; 
they  have  in  many  cases  applied  it  when  offered  to  them ; 
the  absence  of  the  surgeon  from  his  post  at  St  Anthony, 
at  tkie  time  that  we  passed  through,  prevented  our  ascer- 
taining the  success  which  he  had  met  with  among  them : 
all  the  surgeons  of  our  frontier  posts  ought  to  be  abun- 
dantly supplied  with  the  virus,  and  their  stock  of  it  occa- 
sionally renewed,  until  its  increased  consumption  by  the 
Indian  will  enable  them  to  obtain  from  them  fresh  virus, 
as  often  as  they  may  require  it.  The  Dacotas  have  no 
mode  of  curing  the  small-pox,  and  almost  every  person  af- 
fected with  this  disease  falls  a  victim  to  it 

Venesection  is  resorted  to  by  the  Sioux  in  cases  of  con- 
tusions, head-aches,  and  pains  in  the  breast  To  a  wooden 
handle  they  fix  a  small  blade  of  flint,  which  is  covered 
with  sinew  except  at  its  point ;  they  apply  it  to  the  vein, 
which  is  then  cut  open  by  a  slight  fillip  of  the  finger.  They 
also  draw  blood  by  scarifying,  and  by  suction.  Poisoned 
weapons  are  used  by  them  in  their  wars ;  Mr.  Cameron,  a 
trader,  was  poisoned  by  an  Indian,  who  administered  to 
him  some  of  the  plant  used  for  that  purpose. 

The  steam  bath  is  prepared  by  them  as  by  other  In- 
dians ;  but  is  not  so  usually  practised  as  a  remedy ;  it  being 
resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  good  luck,  and  as 
a  religious  ceremony,  in  the  manner  which  Dr.  Richard- 
son describe?,  as  having  seen  practised  by  a  Cree,  (Kil- 


aOURCE    OP    ST.    PETER*8    BiyER. 


415 


listino,)  at  Carlton  House*  It  is,  however,  sometimes  used 
to  cure  rheumatism,  which  disease  is  not  a  very  common 
one  among  them.  To  cure  swellings  they  rub  the  skin 
with  roots  and  plants ;  and  sometimes  use  aromatic  herbs, 
to  impart  to  their  bodies  a  pleasant  odour.  When  the  pain 
is  internal,  they  very  frequently  make  incisions  in  th© 
skin  and  suck  up  the  blood,  accompanying  the  operation 
with  songs.  It  is  probable,  from  the  relief  which  they  de- 
rive from  this  operation  in  certain  cases,  that  they  have 
been  led  to  expect  the  same  abatement  to  their  grief,  or 
disease  of  the  mind,  by  resorting  to  a  similar  remedy,  and 
hence  the  practice  of  lacerating  their  arms,  thighs,  legs, 
breast,  &c.  after  the  death  of  a  friend.  They  generally, 
however,  accompany  this  with  lamentations,  which  they 
consider  as  affording  great  relief.  In  surh  eases  they  also 
resort  to  liquor  when  they  can  get  it,  in  order  to  drown 
all  care.  Colonel  Snelling  mentioned  to  us,  that  when  a 
Dacota  in  the  vicinity  of  his  garrison  loses  any  of  his  rela- 
tions,  he  generally  repairs  to  him  with  a  note  from  the 
Indian  agent,  desiring  that  he  may  receive  a  bottle  of 
whiskey.  When  asked  by  the  Colonel  what  is  the  use 
of  the  liquor  on  so  melancholy  an  occasion,  the  Indians 
uniformly  answer,  that  it  is  to  produce  a  flow  of  tears,  for 
indeed,  without  it,  they  are  unable  to  cry. 

Sterility  among  women  is  by  no  means  uncommon,  nei- 
ther is  it  disreputable.  It  frequently  happens,  that  a  wo- 
man, reputed  barren,  will  bear  children  if  she  change  her 
husband.  Menstruation  commences  later  among  the  Daco- 
tas  than  among  the  Potawatomis,  for,  with  the  former,  it 
seldom  comes  on  before  the  age  of  fifteen  or  sixteen,  while 


•  Franklin's  Narrative  of  a  Journey  to  the  Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea. 
Philadelphia,  1824,  p.  6r. 


416 


EXPEDITION   T6   THE 


the  latter  menstruate  at  fourteen;  this  diflference  is  easily 
accounted  for  by  the  more  f>*ivere  climate  which  the  Dacotus 
inhabit,  and  by  their  greater  exposure  'o  privations  of  every 
kind ;  they  have  various  emmcnagogues.  Women  are  fre- 
quently liable,  during  pregnancy,  to  lethargy  and  sick-sto- 
mach, and  we  are  informed  that  the  Dacota  women  have 
their  faces  covered  with  spots,  in  the  same  manner  as  white 
women.  Being  hardened  to  exercise,  they  attend  to  their 
usual  occupations  even  in  the  last  stages  of  gestation.  This  ' 
has  frequently  been  brought  up  as  a  proof  that  the  deli- 
cacy of  white  women,  in  that  situation,  was  rather  the  result, 
than  the  cause,  of  the  great  care  which  they  take  of  them- 
selves ;  but  it  appears  to  us  very  probable,  that  the  pro- 
portion of  accidents,  which  occur  to  Indian  women  during 
the  period  of  pregnancy,  is  greater  than  among  white  wo- 
men; and  that  this  would  be  much  diminished  if  they 
were  permitted  to  take  the  same  care  to  avoid  the  causes 
of  accidents,  as  is  common  among  civilized  nations.  The 
process  of  parturition  is  generally  easy,  though  in  some  in- 
stances the  labour  has  lasted  from  two  to  four  days.  They 
administer  medicines  in  such  cases,  and  among  these  the 
rattle  of  the  rattle^^nake,  in  doses  of  one  segment  at  a  time. 
Inflammation  and  abscess  of  the  breast  are  known,  but  are 
not  of  very  common  occurrence;  for  these  the  only  reme- 
dies are  singing  and  sucking.  A  custom,  which  has  been 
improperly  ascribed  to  all  Indian  women,  is  that  of  bathing 
in  cold  water  immediately  after  parturition ;  we  have  al- 
ready stated  that  it  does  not  exist  among  the  Potawato- 
mis ;  but  the  Dacotas  adhere  to  it  very  pertinaciously.  We 
have  heard  of  an  instance  of  a  very  delicate  female  who 
resides  at  Prairie  du  Chien.  Her  mother  is  a  Dacota,  but 
her  father  being  a  white  man,  she  was  educated  among  ci- 
vilized women,  and  has  acquired  their  habits.    She  marri- 


•  SOURCE   OF   ST.   PET|:B'ii   {IIVER.  417 

ed  a  respectable  inhabitant  of  the  place,  and  having  been 
delivered  of  a  child,  she  was  confined  to  her  room  with  the 
precautions  usual  among  wh>^,e  women;  her  mother,  who 
was  absent  at  the  time,  hearing  of  her  situation,  came 
to  see  her,  and  finding  her  in  bed,  chided  her  severely, 
asked  her  if  she  was  going  to  imitate  all  the  nonsensical 
tricks  and  fashions  of  white  women,  and  then  dragged  her 
out  of  bed  to  the  astonishment  of  her  husband  and  of  all  the 
by^standers,  and  ducked  her  in  the  Mississippi,  according 
to  the  manners  of  her  nation.  We  have  not  heard  that  any 
accident  resulted  from  this  harsh  treatment ;  nor  that  any 
evil  arises  from  the  practice  wluch  prevails  among  them  of 
breaking  the  ice  in  winter,  in  order  that  both  mother  and 
child  may  bathe  immediately  after  parturition. 

Among  the  Dacotas  there  are  professed  midwives,  but 
the  women  are  sometimes  delivered  by  their  husbands, 
brothers,  sisters,  &c. ;  the  medicine  man  is  generally  pre- 
sent but  never  operates,  his  only  business  is  to  sing,  and 
to  assist  by  his  prayers  and  incantations.  They  never  bleed 
during  labour.  Children  are  suckled  for  a  long  while ; 
from  two  to  five  years,  generally  until  a  new  pregnancy  in- 
terrupts the  secretion  of  milk.  When  the  mother's  milk 
fails,  the  child  is  suckled  by  another. 

We  have  said  that  there  exists  among  the  Sioux  no 
marriage  ceremony,  properly  speaking.  When  a  white 
man  wishes  a  wife,  as  it  is  usual  for  all  ^he  traders  to  take 
Indian  women,  he  has  only  to  express  his  wish  to  the  pa- 
rents and  relations,  who  always  consent  to  it,  stipulating 
the  amount  of  the  presents  which  he  shall  make  to  them. 
One  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  ColuHibia  Fur  Company  in- 
formed us,  that  he  had  given  for  his  wife,  to  her  brother  a 
keg  of  rum,  and  to  her  mother  a  complete  dress ;  but  he 
calculated  that  the  presents  which  he  was  obliged  to  make 

Vol.  I.  53 


1 1 


41t 


BXPEBFTIOIf  TO  THB 


to  the  relations,  amounted  annually  to  sixty  or  seventy 
dollars  in  goods,  worth  about  thirty  dollars  in  cash.  To  an 
Indian  it  does  not  of  course  cost  so  much,  as  less  is  expect- 
ed from  him  than  from  a  trader.  Our  informant  added  that 
it  was  always  better  to  make  these  presents,  because  other- 
wise the  wife  would  make  greater  ones,  as  it  would 
be  impossible  for  her  to  resist  the  importunities  of  her 
friends,  and  particularly  of  her  mother.  '        * 

According  to  the  best  information  which  we  have  ob- 
tained, the  number  of  cinsedi  is  very  small  among  the  Da- 
cotas.  We  heard  of  but  two,  one  in  the  village  of  Keoxa, 
the  other  among  the  Mlakechakesa ;  there  are  probably  a 
few  others,  but  the  number  is  certainly  very  small,  and 
they  are  held  in  the  utmost  contempt. 

What  struck  Lewis  and  Clarke  mosft,  among  the  Sioux, 
'^  was  an  institution,  peculiar  to  them  and  to  the  Kite  Indians, 
from  whom  it  is  said  to  have  been  copied.  It  is  an  association  of 
the  most  active  and  brave  young  men,  who  are  bound  to  each 
other  by  attachment,  secured  by  a  vow  never  to  retreat  before 
any  danger,  or  give  way  to  their  enemies."*  Of  this  inte- 
resting institution  we  have  collected  the  following  features. 
It  constitutes  what  is  called  the  "  Dance  of  the  Brave," 
or  more  properly  perhaps,  "  those  who  perform  the  Dance 
of  the  Brave."  There  exists  in  some  of  the  bands  of  the 
Dacotas,  and  probably  also  among  some  of  the  other  Mis- 
souri Indians,  an  association  called  the  NAripdsh£'n^^,  those 
who  never  fly  or  retreat  A  society  of  this  kind  originates 
in  an  union  of  two  friends,  who,  when  a  warlike  expedi- 
tion is  projected,  propose  to  form  an  association.  They 
send  for  a  third  warrior,  and  these  three  appoint  the  whole 
numben*,  which  seldom  exceeds  thirty  or  forty.    When 


•  Vol.  I.  p.  60. 


SOniCK   OF   ST.   PETBR*«   RIVER. 


4ii 


they  arc  all  collected,  the  two  founders  state  to  them  that 
the  object  of  the  meeting  is  to  form  a  company  of  "  the 
Dauntless,"  and  they  advise  them  to  prepare  their  dresses, 
which  generally  requires  about  a  fortnight.  In  the  mean- 
while, the  two  founders  prepare  the  lodge  of  the  association, 
which  none  but  its  members  are  suffered  to  enter. 

When  all  the  members  are  Collected  together,  they  com- 
mence their  songs  and  dances,  and  their  fasts  which  last 
three  days,  during  which  time  they  reside  in  the  lodge, 
but  occasionally  sally  out  to  sing  and  dance  in  the  camp. 
This  fast  is  of  the  most  strict  nature,  as  they  dare  take  nei- 
ther food  nor  drink  during  the  three  days.  One  of  the 
most  striking  features  of  the  association  is,  that  it  is  limit- 
ed in  its  duration,  and  that  its  activity  is  suspended  by  the 
death  of  any  one  of  its  members.  The  duty  which  it  en- 
joins is  not  destruction  to  its  enemies,  but  the  rushing  into 
danger  with  songs  and  dances.  It  matters  not  whether 
they  inflict  any  injury  upo  the  enemy  at  the  time.  In- 
deed, as  long  as  the  association  is  in  activity,  they  cannot 
kill  one,  for  it  is  one  of  their  obligations  to  go  out  unarm- 
ed. A  society  of  this  kind  sometimes  continues  actively 
employed  for  a  whole  year,  during  which  time  its  mem- 
beid  cannot  provide  themselves  with  food  or  drink,  but 
they  must  wait  until  it  is  offered  to  them  by  their  friends. 
When  a  person  once  enters  into  the  Nanpashene,  he  is 
bound  to  it  for  life ;  for  although  its  duration  is  limited,  yet 
it  m^y  be  renewed  at  the  call  of  any  of  its  members,  in 
which  case  all  are  bound  to  join  in;  but  during  the  term 
of  its  suspension,  each  may  act  for  himself  as  he  pleases. 
It  is  not  always  that  an  Indian  is  willing  to  enter  into  this 
society,  for  though  it  is  held  in  high  honour,  yet  it  requires 
a  more  than  usual  courage  to  expose  one's  self  passively  to 
the  greatest  dangers,  under  a  strict  obligation,  which  none 


'  i 


».. 


420 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


dare  violate,  ne^^iGr  to  retreat  from  it  In  the  commence-, 
ment  of  the  association,  the  two  founders  having  selected 
a  third,  and  this  one  nominated  a  fourth  member,  these 
meet  in  the  lodge  appropriated  to  their  purpose,  and  as  soon 
is  they  have  entered  it,  and  sm(^ed  the  pipe  of  war,  they 
cannot  retract.  These  four  assume  the  appropriate  dress, 
and  issue  out  of  tL.  lodge  singing  and  dancing;  they  se- 
lect such  of  the  warriors,  as  they  think  will  be  good  mem- 
bers of  the  band,  and  convey  them,  whether  willing  or  not, 
to  their  lodge.  If  the  warrior  enter  it,  even  but  for  a  mo- 
ment, he  is  bound  to  the  association  and  cannot  withdraw ; 
but  if  he  succeed  in  effecting  his  escape  before  he  enters 
the  lodge,  he  is  i.ee.  Vacancies  in  their  body  are  never  bill- 
ed ;  the  associatioii  cMitinues  until  it  is  .'mnihilated  by  the 
dej»th  of  all  ils  members,  when  a  new  oi\e  may  be  formed. 
They  have  occasional  meetings  for  feasut  and  sacrifices. 
Their  fasts  are  both  frequent  and  rigid.  It  is  difficult  to 
determine,  with  precision,  what  the  object  of  (he  institu- 
tion is,  but  it  seems  to  be  to  convince  the  enemy,  that  there 
are,  in  their  band,  a  number  of  men  so  heedless  of  danger, 
thSit  they  will  rush  into  it,  under  a  solemn  pledge  never  to 
retreat,  ajid  also  wi'hout  the  usual  moti~e  of  selling  their 
lives  at  a  high  price,  by  the  nomber  of  the  enemy  whom 
they  will  have  previously  destroyed.  It  must  be  admitted 
that  the  passive  courage,  which  this  association  requires  of 
its  members,  presents  perhaps  the  highest  degree,  which 
man  has  ever  manifested ;  for  they  are  not  even  animated 
by  a  religious  or  a  superstitious  feeling;  they  do  not  be- 
lieve that  this  self-devotion  will  ensure  success  to  their 
party.  They,  it  is  true,  entertain  the  opinion  that  it  is 
more  difficult  to  kill  them  than  other  warriors ;  yet  th^'s 
does  not  de-tract  in  the  least  from  their  merit,  as  they  know 
they  must,  sooner  or  later,  fall  victims  to  tlie  dangers  to 


SOURCE  OF   ST.  PETER's   RIVER. 


*4Sfl 


<■>  V 


which  they  expose  themselves.  The  great  divinity  to 
which  this  association  looks  up  for  support,  is  the  thunder, 
to  which  frequent  sacrifices  are  offered,  especially  by  the 
two  founders  who  are  its  leaders.  The  sacrifices  are  made 
at  the  door  of  the  lodge,  and  consist  of  pieces  of  meat  stuck 
upon  a  wooden  fork,  and  inclined  to  the  west.  The  mem- 
bers, of  this  a^ociation  have  a  costly  and  splendid  dress, 
made  of  antelope's  skin ;  they  wear  feathers  upon  their 
heads.  Every  band  of  the  Sioux  has  not  an  association  of 
this  kind;  some  have  two  or  three  societies,  one  of  which 
has  alone  the  title  of  the  brave ;  the  others  being  called  the 
soldiers,  the  buffalo,  &c.  The  object  of  these  appears  to  be 
different,  as  they,  are  not  bound  to  that  passive  exposure 
to  danger,  which  characterizes  the  Nanpashene. 

I'he  Dacotas  that  reside  along  the  Mississippi  and  Si;. 
Peter,  raise  maiize  in  tolerable  abuhdance ;  they  also  cul- 
tivate beans,  pumpkins,  and  other  vegetables ;  some  of  them, 
such  as  Wapasha,  appear  to  be  aware  of  the  advantages 
which  attend  agriculture,  but  all  are  not  equally  so ;  and 
the  occasional  supplies  of  these  articles  which  they  receive 
from  the  Indian  agents  and  officers  of  our  government, 
whenever  they  are  in  want  of  food,  no  doubt  tend  to  en- 
ccmrage  their  lazy  habits.  Col.  Snellit^g  once  offered  a 
chief  the  use  of  a  plough,  and  of  a  person  to  teach  him  the 
manner  of  working  it,  in  order  that  his  band  might  raise 
potatoes.  The  chief  made  no  answer  for  some  time,  but 
continued  to  smoke  his  pipe  with  great  deliberation ;  when 
this  was  exhausted,  and  he  had  carefully  laid  it  aside,  he 
rose,  advanced  towards  the  colonel,  shook  his  hand,  and 
observed  that  he  had  taken  the  offer  into  consideration,  and 
had  concluded,  that  he  would  be  a  great  fool  were  he  to 
accept  of  it,  when  he  recollected  that  his  father  always 
supplied  him  with  provisions  as  often  as  he  was  in  need  of 


.   » 


42?, 


KXPEDITIOJSr  TO   THB 


them.  The  Dacotas  do  not  profess,  as  the  Potawatomis 
do,  to  have  been  acquainted  with  the  preparation  of  sugar 
from  the  sap  of  the  maj^e  t^ee  previous  to  their  intercourse 
with  white  traders.  Their  food  is  usually  prepared  by 
boiling  it  in  iron  pots,  which  they  procure  from  the  traders, 
and  as  far  as  we  have  observed,  they  appear  to  prefer  their 
meat  well  done.  In  their  degree  of  cleanliness  they  vary 
much,  some  being  far  more  particular  than  others.  Ti^e 
Dacotas  may  upon  the  whole  be  considered  as  not  very  un- 
cleanly ;  and,  as  far  as  relates  to  their  persons,  they  attend 
much  to  this  particular.  They  had  no  substitute  for  ardent 
spirits,  and  were  completely  unacquainted  with  mtoxica- 
tion  previous  to  theit"  intercourse  with  Europeans. 

Of  their  divisions  of  time  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  correct 
information. .  The  interpreters,  even  the  most  intelligent, 
are  so  prone  to  connect  their  own  opinions  with  those  of 
the  Indians,  that  they  can  scarcely  be  trusted  in  this  parti- 
cular. We  have  not  been  able,  however,  to  trace  among 
thcu:  any  idea  of  the  lost  moon,  ascribed  to  them  by  Car- 
ver. The  following  division  of  the  year  was  furnished  by 
RenVille,  and  is  added,  though  we  place  but  little  confi-, 
dehce  in  its  accuracy,  at  least  as  having  been  in  use  among 
the  Indians  previous  to  their  intercourse  with  white  men. 
They  are  said  to  divide  the  year  into  twelve  moons,  cona- 
mencing  with  the  September  one,  and  distinguishing  them 
as  follows.    (W6  signifies  moon.) 

September,  Wajopi  we,  Commencement  of  wild  rice.  » 

October,       Siushtaupi  we.  End  of  wild  rice. 

November,  Takehuha  we,  Rutting  deer. 

December,    Tahechapshon  we.  Deer  shedding  its  horn. 

January,       We  tarhe,  i/arrf  moo/i. 
«   February,     Wechata  we.  Raccoon* 

March,         Wishta  wasa  we,  Sore-eife.  '   ' 


SOURCS   OF  ST.   PXTBR's   RIVEB. 


423 


April,  Mahahs^handl  we,  Hunting.     "        ^'    * 

May,     '       Mahahakanda  we.  Oviparous  game, 
•  June,  Wajustechasha  we,  Strawberries. 

^      July,  Tschanpasha  we,  Cherries. 

August,        Tatanka  kehowa  we.  Rutting  buffalo. 

Among  the  Indians  whom  we  saw  at  Fort  St  Anthony, 
there  was  one  who  was  called  the  fool.  His  countenance 
had  a  great  appearance  of  simplicity,  being  totally  devoid 
of  expression ;  his  face  was  long,  his  eyes  downcast  and 
vacant ;  his  person  was  much  ornamented ;  the  upper  part 
of  his  face  was  painted  with  bright  vermilion,  the  lower 
part  was  black,  leaving  but  a  narrow  strip  along  the  upper 
lip  which  was  of  the  natural  colour ;  his  ornaments  were 
more  childish  and  toyish  than  those  which  the  Indians 
usually  wear.  This  man  was  formerly  gifted  with  a  com- 
mon share  of  intellect,  but  he  has,  through  the  wantonness 
of  some  Indians,  been  reduced  to  his  present  state  of  idiocy. 
He  was  a  long  time  since  taken  prisoner  by  his  enemies, 
who  with  a  view  to  amuse  themselves  with  his  fears,  tied 
him  to  a  stake,  and  threatened  to  burn  him  alive ;  a  little 
fire  was  kindled,  so  as  merely  to  scorch  him;  but  when  he 
was  loosened,  his  intellect  was  disordered,  and  has  conti- 
nued so  ever  since.  In  some  instances,  however,  he  still 
displays  his  natural  sagacity.  He  is  a  good  hunter;  being 
at  one  time  very  poor,  he  made  a  sort  of  pike,  with  which 
he  went  out  to  hunt,  and  was  very  successful,  particularly 
in  killing  raccoons ;  the  skins  which  he  sold  on  his  re- 
turn enabled  him  to  purchase  a  gun,  blanket,  &c.  He  is 
much  trusted  by  the  officers  of  the  garrison,  and  had  just 
returned  from  Prairie  du  Chien  with  despatches,  having 
travelled  the  distance  on  foot  in  four  days. 

Like  all  the  Indian  nations  with  whom  the  white  man 
has  come  into  contact,  the  Dacota  presents  to  us  at  this 


424 


JSXPSDITIOir  TO  THE 

« 


day  ^t  a  noble  ruin.  No  longer  united ''for  purposes 
of  corimoa  defence,  they  have  long  since  ceased  to  meet 
at  the  same  council  fire ;  their  alliances  with  other  nations 
are  now  mere  mockeries ;  their  wars  have  dwindled  into 
petty  conflicts.  Instead  of  marching  as  they  formerly  did 
by  hundreds,  they  now  issue  forth  in  small  detachments, 
prei>enting  rather  the  character  of  a  band  of  marauders  than 
of  an  expedition  of  warriors.  When  they  lighted  the  com- 
mon calumet  at  the  General  Council  Fire,  it  ws  always 
among  the  Mende  Wahkantoan,  who  then  resiued  near 
Spirit  Lake,  and  who  were  considered  as  the  oldest  band 
of  the  nalion;  their  chiefs  being  of  longer  standing  than 
those  of  fh(:  other  tribes ;  among  themselves  they  use  the 
appellation  d"  brothers.  They  are  related  with  the  Shiennes, 
a'ld  with  the  Arricaras,  and  by  marriages  they  are  connect- 
ed with  the  Pawnees,  Osages,  &c. ;  but  to  these  nations 
they  only  apply  the  term  of  friend.  With  the  Omawhaws 
they  wage  a  deadly  warfare.  We  were  told  that  the 
lawas  were  formerly  a  band  of  the  Dacotas,  and  that  they 
were  distinguished  by  the  term  of  the  Titatons,  but  that 
they  separated  long  since,  and  that  their  language  had  been 
so  much  altered  as  to  be  unintelligible  to  the  Dacotas.  But 
this  information  is  probably  incorrect,  for  Governor  Clarke, 
during  his  late  visit  to  the  seat  of  government,  with  a  de- 
putation of  Indians  from  many  nations,  informed  Mr.  Col-  * 
houn,  that  the  lawas,  Winnebagoes,  and  Otoes,  appeared 
to  him  to  be  of  common  descent,  and  to  speak  dialects  of 
the  same  language,  and  he  expressed  his  opinion,  that  an 
inquiry  into  the  matter  would  result  in  determining  them 
to  be  of  that  nation,  which,  as  we  learn  from  Mr.  Jefler- 
son's  "Notes,"  emigrated  from  Ocoquan.  Mr.  Joseph 
Snelling,  who  accompanied  that  deputation,  likewise  in- 
formed Mr.  Colhoun,  that  in  a  speech  made  by  tlie  lawa 


BOURCB  OF  ST.  PETER  S  RIVER. 


425 


chief  while  in  the  city  of  Washini^ton,  the  former  union  of 
the  Winnebagoes  and  Otoes  with  his  nation,  was  distinct- 
Jy  asserted.  This  confirms  the  information  ohtained  by 
Mr.  Say  on  the  former  expedition,  (Vide  Account  of  an 
Expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  vol.  I.  p.  338,  339, 
and  342,)  and  disproves  the  assertion  that  the  lawas  were 
ever  connected  with  the  Bacotas.  It  may  likewise  be 
questioned,  whether  the  Omawhaws,  whom  Carver  con- 
nects, as  well  as  the  Shiennes  and  Arricaras,  with  tlie  Nau- 
dowessies  of  the  plains,  were  not  descended  from  a  differ- 
ent stock.  ^      ♦  ft      . 

Of  the  history  of  the  Dacotas  very  little  is  known ;  they 
have  been  enj,  ^ed  from  time  immemorial  in  a  destructive 
war  against  the  Chippewas.  All  the  efforts  of  our  govern- 
ment have  tended  to  produce  but  temporary  suspensions 
of  arms,  which  have  been  in  all  cases  violated  within  a 
short  time  after  they  had  been  made.  Lahontan  informs 
us,  that  they  defeated  a  party  of  Iroquois,  on  an  island  of 
the  Mississippi,  prior  to  ti\e  year  1688.  In  1697,*  they 
destroyed  a  party  of  Miamis.  on  the  southern  coast  of  Lake 
Michigan,  between  St.  Joseph  and  Kikalemazo  rivers; 
and  Charlevoix  states  that  in  1701,t  the  Sauks,  Winne- 
bs^es,  Menomonies,  Foxes,  Potawatomis,  and  Kicka- 
ppos,  assembled  at  Green  Bay  to  go  to  war  with  them, 
hut  that  they  were  dissuaded  from  it  by  a  French  emis- 
sary. The  Chippewas  informed  Carver,  in  1767,  that  a  war 
had  continued  without  any  interruption  between  them  and 
the  Dacotas  for  upwards  of  forty  winters.  They  appear  to 
have  no  tradition  or  knowledge  of  the  Lenni-Lenape, 


1 


jwise  m- 


*  Charlevoix's  HisL  de  la  Nouv.  France,  torn.  3.  p.  310. 
t  Ibid,  p.  405, 

Vol.  f.  54 


426 


EXPEDITION   TO   THB 


.*'» 


Aligawi,  or  other  nations  that  were  found  east  of  the  Al- 
leghany Mountains.  In  speaking  of  the  early  impiession 
made  by  the  Dacotas  on  Europeans,  Charlevoix  observed, 
that  they  were  considered  to  have  abetter  conception  than 
any  other  Indians  of  the  attributes  of  the  Supreme  Being. 
Our  visit  t?  Lake  Travers  having  been  announced  to  the 
gentlemen  of  the  Columbia  Fur  Company,  by  a  messenger 
sent  to  them  from  Big  Stone  Lake,  the  party  were  receiv- 
ed on  their  arrival  with  a  national  salute ;  and  other  de- 
c^jnonstrations  of  friendly  hospitality  were  manifested,  not 
only  at  that  time,  but  also  during  the  few  days  which 
they  spent  there. 

The  Columbia  Fur  Company  was  created  in  1822;  it 
»•  consists  of  but  few  individuals,  who  being  all  practically 
acquainted  with  the  Indian  trade,  in  which  they  had  pre- 
viously been  engaged  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson'^s  Bay 
•*  or  North-West  Company,  resolved  after  the  consolidation 
« of  these  two  companies  into  one,  to  establish  themselves 
*-.on  the  United  States'  territory,  and  to  trade  with  the  In- 
dians south  of  the  boundary  line,  under  licences  granted  by 
the  Indian  agent  at  the  mouth  of  the  St  Peter.  Their  capital 
is  not  very  large,  but  being  all  active,  intelligent^  and  expe- 
rienced, they  will,  we  doubt  not,  succeed,  T^eir  principal 
establishment  is  at  Lake  Travers;  its  i^tuation  i$»  judicious- 
ly selected,  as  it  is  at  the  head  of  the  navigation  of  the  St 
Peter  and  Red  Rivers,  in  the  midst  of  a  country  which 
abounds  in  buffalo,  so  that  they  can  lay  in  ample  stores  of 
provisions  for  their  wintering  parties.  By  extending  their 
excursions  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  as 
far  on  the  Missouri  as  the  Indians  will  permit,  they  will 
be  able  to  obtain  large  supplies  of  beaver  and  other  valua- 
■  ble  skins,  and  as  their  object  appears  to  be  merely  to  trade 
witli  the  Indians,  and  not  to  hunt  upon  their  lands,  tliey 


SOURCE   OP   ST.   PETER'S   RIVER, 


427 


win,  rt  is  to  be  hoped,  continue  on  amicable  terms  with 
them. 

The  following  statement  of  the  amount  of  furs  formerly 
packed  up  by  the  British  companies,  and  producifed  alto- 
gether by  the  trade  on  Red  River  and  its  tributaries,  ha? 
been  communicated  to  us  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  Colum- 
bia Fur  Company.  As  this  statement  is  restricted  to  the 
value  of  the  fur  trade  on  the  South  side  of  the  boundary 
line,  we  think  there  can  be  no  impropriety  in  publishing 
it.  All  that  relates  to  the  British  territories,  and  that  we 
have  been  able  *o  collect  from  our  own  observations,  or 
which  has  been  kindly  communicated  to  us  in  the  course 
of  conversations  with  the  officers  of  the  Hudson^s  Bay 
Company,  we  have  no  wish  to  publish,  and  we  would  con- 
sider it  highly  censurable  so  to  do,  but  as  this  relates  to  a 
trade  in  which  they  can  have  no  further  interest,  no  ob- 
jection can  we  trust  be  taken  to  it. 


4 

n 


Names. 

No.  of  packs.    No.  of  skins,  or    Value  of  pack 

.    Total. 

wt.  of  each  pack. 

Beaver, 

-     10 

-       100  lbs.  Wt.     -     15400 

$4000 

Bear, 

-     20 

12  skins        -         75* 

150d4 

Bufialo, 

-  400 

10  skins        -         40 

16,000 

Martin, 

-     10 

-      100  lbs.           -       300 

8000 

Otter, 

-     10 

-      100  lbs.           -        600 

6000 

Fisher, 

-     25 

450 

11,250 

Elk,       \ 

-     40 

16  skins     "  -        80 

3200 

Myiix,  w" 

'"•"ao 

-        -        -          -  '    200 

2000  »' 

Carried  over  525 


•mm 


IS  46,950 


# 


> 


•  This  item  we  find  stated  in  our  notes  at  $  450  per  pack,  but  we  ap- 
prehend that  the  statement  is  very  much  overrated,  although  it  is  said 
to  refer  to  the  finest  quality.  Six  dollars  per  skin  is  probably  a  fair  price. 


^<   * 


428 


EXPEDITION  TO   THE 


Brot  forward 

625  ,- 

t. 

^46,950 

Muskrat,     - 

40 

500  skins 

II200 

8000 

Lynx, 

20(r-.' 

^     -        -     .      - 

280 

5600 

Svsran, 

2       ' 

60  skins 

60 

120 

Rabbit, 

4.     - 

400  skins 

8 

32 

Wolverine  - 

1       - 

400  skins 

» 

75 

Cowskins,  "> 
(dreased,)  3 

20       - 

16  skins 

< 

80 

1600 

Wolves,    - 

10       - 

^1 

40 

400 

Moose, 

10       - 

'1 

80 

800 

Fox, 

5       . 

■■                         m               -i                 m 

260 

1300 

637 


1164,877 


The  above  prices  are,  we  believe,  those  of  the  Montreal 
market.  This  statement  establishes  the  average  value  of 
the  packs  at  about  one  handred  dollars,  and  if  we  exclude 
the  bufialo  robes,  which  are  sold  at  forty  dollars  a  pack, 
the  other  furs  will  average  upwards  of  two  hundred  dol- 
lars. The  amount  of  the  less  valuable  furs,  such  as  those 
of  wolves,  wolverines,  rabbits,  &c.  might  be  increased  if 
there  were  a  market  for  them. 

In  addition  to  these,  the  country  supplies  annually  one 
thousand  bags  of  pounded  buffalo  meat,  (Pemmican,*)  va- 

*  Pemmican  is  the  meat  of  the  buffalo,  prepared  for  preservation  in 
the  following  manner :  The  flesh  is  cut  into  thin  slices,  which  are 
jerked  in  the  sun  or  smoke,  the  latter  heing  preferable ;  it  is  then  dried 
before  the  fire  until  it  becomes  crisp,  after  which  it  is  lud  upon  one 
stone,  and  pounded  with  another  fixed  into  a  wooden  handle ;  after  it 
has  been  reduced  into  as  fine  a  powder  as  possible,  which  is,  however, 
far  from  being  very  minute,  it  is  mixed  up  with  an  equal  weight  of  buf- 
falo grease,  or  marrow  fat  poured  on  when  hot  and  liquid.  Befi>re  the 
mixture  cools,  it  is  introduced  into  skin  bags,  and  well  shaken,  so  that 
U  may  setUe  into  a  compact  mass.    Sometimes,  in  order  to  give  it  a 


SOURCE   OF    ST.   TETEr's    RIVER. 


429 


Jued  at  four  thousand  dollars.  The  Columbia  Fur  Company 
can,  if  it  be  active,  share  this  trade  witli  the  American  Fur 
Company ;  these  are  the  only  associations  that  trade  at  pre- 
sent with  the  Indians  in  that  part  of  the  United  States.  In- 
dependent of  this  the  trade  of  the  Missouri  and  its  tributa- 
ries may  probably  prove  very  valuable.    It  will  be  the  in- 
t;erest  of  both  the  companies  to  Keep  on  amicable  terms. 
The  practice  which  has  too  often  prevailed  among  Indian 
traders  to  endeavour  to  increase  their  business  by  injuring 
the  interests  or  the  reputation  of  their  competitors  is  as 
injudicious,  as  the  means  which  they  adopted  were  fre- 
quently criminal.     They  lower  the  character  of  the  white 
man  in  the  opinion  of  the  Indians,  and  excite  them  to  deeds 
at  which  they  would  otherwise  revolt 
""   The  principal  -interest  which  we  experienced  in  the 
oeighbourhood  of  Lake  Travers,  was  from  an  acquaintance 
with  W4n6t4n,  (the  Charger,)  the  most  distinguished  chief 
of  the  Yanktoanan  ti'ibe,  which,  as  we  were  informed,  is 
subdivided  into  six  bands.     He  is  one  of  the  greatest  men 
of  the  Dacota  nation,  and  although  but  twenty-eight  years 
of  age,  he  has  already  acquired  great  renown  as  a  warrior. 
At  the  early  age  of  eighteen,  he  exhibited  much  valour  in  the 
war  against  the  Americans,  and  was  wounded  several  times. 
He  was  tiien  inexperienced  and  served  under  his  father, 
who  was  the  chief  of  his  tribe,  and  who  hore  a  mortal  en- 
mity to  the  Americans.    Wanotan  has  since  learned  to 
form  a  better  estimate  of  our  nation.     He  is  aware  that  it 


pleasant  taste,  it  is  mixed  with  a  tort  of  wild  cherry,  which  Is  pounded 
and  introduced,  stone  and  all.  The  Pemmican  forms  a  wholesome  and 
strong  food,  which,  when  prepared  with  care,  and  from  good  mate~ 
rials,  is  very  palatable.  It  has  the  advantage  that  it  may  be  eaten  with< 
out  any  preparatory  cooking.  Sometimes  it  is  heated  in  a  pan,  and  is 
equalto  the  best  bashed  meat. 


430 


.•^ 


EXPEDITION   TO   TItE 


is  the  interest  of  his  people  to  remain  at  peace  with  un,' 
and  would,  probably,  In  case  of  another  war  hetwcep  tlie,** 
United  States  and  England,  take  part  with  : 8"  former. 
Those,  who  know  him  well,  commend  his  i.  ^acity  and 
judgment,  as  well  as  his  valour.  He  is  a  tall  man,  being 
upwards  of  six  feet  high ;  his  countenance  would  be  ei- 
teemed  handsome  in  any  country  ;  his  features  being  reV« 
gular  and  well-shaped.  There  is  an  intelligence  that  beams 
through  his  eye,  which  is  not  the  usual  concomitant  of  In- 
dian featuref .  His  manners  are  dignified  and  reserved ;  his 
attitudes  are  graceful  and  easy,  though  they  appear  to  be 
somewhat  studied.  When  speaking  of  the  Dacotas,  we 
purposely  postponed  mentioning  the  frequent  vows  which 
they  make,  and  their  strict  adherence  to  them,  because, 
one  of  the  best  evidences  which  we  have  collected  on  this 
point,  connects  itself  with  the  character  of  Wanotan,  and 
may  give  a  favourable  idea  of  his  extreme  fortitude  in  en- 
during pain.  In  the  summer  of  1822  he  undertook  a  jour- 
ney, from  which,  apprehending  much  danger  on  the  part 
of  the  Chippewas,  he  made  a  vow  to  the  Sun,  that,  if  he 
returned  safe,  he  would  abstain  from  all  food  or  drink, 
for  the  space  of  four  successive  days  and  nights,  and  that 
he  would  distribute  among  his  people  all  the  property 
which  he  possessed,  including  all  his  lodges,  horses,  dogs, 
&c.  On  his  return,  which  happened  without  accident,  he 
celebrated  the  dance  of  the  sun ;  this  consisted  in  making 
three  cuts  through  his  skin,  one  on  his  breast,  and  one  on 
each  of  his  arms.  The  skin  was  cut  in  the  manner  of  a  loop, 
so  as  to  permit  a  rope  to  pass  under  the  strip  of  skin  and 
flesh  which  was  thus  divided  from  the  body.  The  ropes  be- 
ing passed  through,  their  ends  were  secured  to  a  tall  ver- 
tical pole,  planted  at  about  forty  yards  from  his  lodge.  He 
thefi  began  to  dance  round  this  pole,  at  the  commencement 


&OU^K   OF  ST.    PSTt:R*ii   HIVKR. 


49k 


we 


of  his  fast,  frequently  swinging  himself  in  the  air,  so  as  to 
be  supported  merely  by  the  cords  which  were  secui-cd  to 
the  strips  of  skin  cut  off  from  his  arms  and  breast  He 
continued  this  exercise  with  few  intermissions,  during  tho 
whole  of  his  fast,  until  the  fourth  day  about  ten  o'clock,  A. 
M.  when  the  strip  of  skin  from  his  breast  gave  way.  Not- 
withstanding which  he  interrupted  not  his  dance,  although 
supported  merely  by  his  arms.  At  noon  the  strip  from 
his  left  som  snapped  off.  His  uncle  then  thought  th&i  ho 
had  suffered  enough ;  he  drew  his  knife  and  cut  off  the  skin 
from  his  right  arm,  upon  which  Wanotan  fell  to  the  ground 
and  swooned.  The  heat  at  the  time  was  extreme.  He  was 
left  exposed  in  that  state  to  the  sun  until  night,  when  his 
friends  brought  him  some  provisions.  After  the  ceremony 
was  over,  he  distributed  to  them  the  whole  of  his  pro- 
perty, among  which  were  five  fine  horses,  and  he  and  his 
two  squaws  left  his  lodge,  abandoning  every  article  of  their 
furniture.  \   ,  -^ 

As  we  appeared  upon  the  brow  of  the  hill  which  com- 
mands the  sompany's  fort,  a  salute  was  fired  from  a  number 
of  Indian  tents  which  were  pitched  in  the  vicinity,  from 
the  largest  of  which  the  American  colours  were  flying. 
And  SiS  soon  as  we  had  dismounted  from  our  horses,  we 
received  an  invitation  to  a  feast  which  Wanotan  had  pre- 
pared for  us.  The  gentlemen  of  the  company  informed  us 
that  as  soon  as  the  Indians  had  heard  of  our  contemplated 
visit,  they  h%d  commenced  their  preparations  for  a  festival, 
and  that  tliey  had  killed  three  of  their  dogs.  We  repaired  to 
a  sort  of  pavilion  which  they  had  erected  by  the  union  of 
several  large  skin  lodges.  Fine  buffalo  robes  were  spread 
all  around,  and  the  air  was  perfumed  by  the  odour  of  sweet 
scenting  grass  which  had  been  burned  in  it  On  entering 
the  lodge  we  saw  the  chiej  seated  near  the  further  end  of 


[*^.«l 


432 


EXPEDITION   TO    TUC 


it,  and  one  of  his  principal  men  pointed  out  to  us  the  placo 
which  was  destined  for  our  aceommodation ;  it  was  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  lodge ;  the  Indians  who  were  in  it  taking 
no  further  notice  of  us.  These  consisted  of  the  chief,  his 
son,  a  lad  about  eight  years  old,  and  eight  or  ten  of  the 
principal  warriors.  The  chiePs  dress  presented  a  mixture 
of  the  European  and  aboriginal  costume;  he  woremoccas- 
«ins  and  leggings  of  splendid  scarlet  cloth,  a  blue  breech- 
cloth,  a  fine  shirt  of  printed  muslin,  over  this  a  frock  coat 
of  fine  blue  cloth  with  scarlet  facings,  somewhat  similar  to 
the  undress  uniform  coat  of  a  Prussian  officer;  this  was 
buttoned  and  secured  round  his  waist  by  a  belt.  Upon  his 
head  he  wore  a  blue  cloth  cap^  made  like  a  German  fatigue 
cap.  A  very  handsome  Mackinaw  blanket,  slightly  orna- 
mented with  paint,  was  thrown  over  his  person.  His  son, 
whose  features  strongly  favoured  those  of  his  father,  wore  a 
dress  somewhat  similar,exceptthat  his  coat  was  party-colour- 
ed, one-half  being  made  of  blue,  and  the  other  half  of  scarlet 
cloth.  He  wore  a  round  hat  with  a  plated  silver  band  and 
a  large  cockade.  From  his  neck  were  suspended  several 
silver  medals,  doubtless  presents  to  his  father.  This  lad  ap- 
peared to  be  a  great  favourite  of  Wanotan's,  who  seems  to 
indulge  him  more  than  is  customary  with  Indians  to  do. 
As  soon  as  we  had  taken  our  seats,  the .  chief  passed  his 
pipe  round,  and  while  we  were  engaged  in  smoking,  two 
of  the  Indians  arose  and  uncovered  the  large  kettles  which 
were  standing  over  the  fire,  they  emptied  their  contents  into 
a  dozen  of  wooden  dishes  which  were  placed  all  round  the 
lodge.  These  consisted  of  buffalo  meat  boiled  with  tepsin, 
also  the  same  vegetable  boiled,  without  the  meat,  in  buffalo 
grease,  and  finally,  the  much-esteemed  dog  meat,  all  which 
were  dressed  without  salt  In  compliance  with  the  esta- 
blished usage  of  travellers  to  taste  of  every  thing,  we  all 


SOtTRCE    OP    ST.    PFTER's   RIVER. 


493 


partook  of  the  latter  with  a  mixed  fueling  of  curiosity  ami 
reluctance.  Could  wc  have  divested  ourselves  entirely  of 
the  prejudices  of  education,  we  should  doubtless  have  un- 
hesitatingly acknowledged  this  to  be  among  the  best  meat 
that  we  had  ever  eaten.  It  was  remarkably  fat,  was  sweet  and 
palatable.  It  had  none  of  that  dry  stringy  character,  which 
we  had  expected  to  tind  in  it,  and  it  was  entirely  destitute 
of  the  strong  taste  which  we  had  apprehended  that  it  pos- 
sessed. It  was  not  an  unu<,ual  appetite,  or  the  want  of  good 
meat  to  compare  with  it,  which  led  us  to  form  tiiis  favour- 
able opinion  of  the  dog,  for  wc  had,  on  the  same  dish,  the 
best  meat  which  our  prairies  aflbrd ;  but  so  strongly  root- 
ed are  the  prejudices  of  education,  that,  though  we  all  un- 
affectedly admitted  the  excellence  of  this  food,  yet  few  of 
us  could  be  induced  to  eat  much  of  it.  We  were  warned 
by  our  trading  friends  that  the  bones  of  this  animal  are 
treated  with  great  respect  by  the  Dacotas ;  we  therefore 
took  great  care  to  replace  them  in  the  dishes ;  and  we  arc 
informed  that,  after  such  a  feast  is  concluded,  the  bones  arc 
carefully  collected,  the  flesh  scraped  off  from  them,  and 
that  after  being  washed,  they  are  buried  in  the  ground, 
partly,  as  it  is  said,  to  testify  to  the  dog  species,  that  in 
feasting  upon  one  of  their  number  no  disrespect  was  meant 
to  the  species  itself,  and  partly  also  frcA«  a  belief  that  the 
bones  of  the  animal  will  rise  and  reproduce  another  one. 
The  meat  of  this  animal,  as  we  saw  it,  was  thought  to  re- 
semble that  of  the  finest  Welsh  mutton,  except  that  it  was 
of  a  much  darker  colour.  Having  so  far  overcome  our  re- 
pugnance as  to  taste  of  it,  we  no  longer  wonder  that  the 
dog  should  be  considered  a  dainty  dish  by  those  in  whom 
education  has  not  created  a  prejudice  against  this  flesh.  In 
China  it  is  said  that  fattened  pups  are  frequently  sold  in 
the  market  place ;  and  it  appears  that  the  invitation  to  a 
Vol.  I.  55 


• 


i  il 


■iMMbtewnata 


434 


EXPEDITION   TO  THB 


feast  of  dog  meat  is  the  greatest  distinction  that  can  be  of- 
fered to  a  stranger  by  any  of  the  Indian  nations  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  That  this  is  not  the  case  among  some 
of  the  nations  west  of  those  mountains,  appears  from  the 
fact  th  »t  Lewis  and  C'arke  were  called,  in  derision,  by  the 
Indians  of  the  Columbia,  Dog  Eaters. 

In  the  Dacota's  treatment  of  his  dogs,  during  life  and 
after  death,  we  observe  one  of  those  strange  inconsisten- 
cies which  so  frequently  prevail  in  the  character  of  man, 
whether  civilized  or  savage.     While  living,  the  dog  is  a 
beast  of  burden,  and  as  such  exposed  to  undergo  much  fa-' 
tigue  and  ill-treatment;  it  is  at  the  same  time  a  most  va- 
luable atiimal.  The  traders,  who  have  imitated  the  Indians 
in  their  use  of  the  dog,  speak  of  it  as  almost  indispensable 
to  them.     Mr.  Jeffries,  one  of  the  partners  of  the  Colum- 
bia Fur  Company,  informed  us,  that  he  had  the  preceding 
winter  transported  in  a  log  cart  one  thousand  pound? 
weight  of  goods,  with  tlie  assistance  of  sis,  and  -arely  eight, 
dogs,  and  that  he  travelled  from  Lake  Travers  lo  the  Man- 
dan  villa       in  eleven  days.  On  a  long  journey,  the  allow- 
ance of  1    id  is  one  hundred  pounds  per  dog.     For  winter 
travelling,  in  a  country  so  frequently  covered  with  snow, 
the  dog  is  the  most  convenient  beast  of  burden,  as  it  may 
be  fed  either  on  dried  nieat,  or  on  the  fresh  meat  which  is 
oconsionally  procured.  In  travelling  on  the  snow  with  dog 
trains,  it  is  usual  for  a  man  to  walk  ahead  of  the  dogs,  with 
snow  shoes,  m  order  to  trample  down  the  snow,  in  which 
otherwise  they  would  sink.     We  learn  from  Mr.  Back's 
notes,*  *hat  the  feet  of  the  dogs  are  sometimes  very  much 
injured,  and  that  in  one  instance,  where  they  were  perfect- 
ly raw,  he  attempted  to  tie  shoes  on  th<2m,  which  did  not 


*  Franklir/s  Journey  to  the  shores  ?f  the  Polar  Sea,  ut  sup.  p.  251. 


SOURCE   OV   ST.    PET£R*S   RIVER. 


435 


succeed.  Whether  it  be  usual  for  the  Dacotas  to  do  so,  we 
very  much  question ;  though  it  would  appear  from  Pur- 
chas'  Pilgrim,  that  these  have  been  used  by  some  nations, 
and  we  are  told  by  Olaus  Magnus,  that  in  the  north  of 
Europe,  a  somewhat  similar  practice  existed  as  regards 
horses'  feet,*  and  probably  at  the  time  that  he  visited  the 
country,  which  was  m  1518.  The  dogs  are  a  great  assist- 
ance to  the  squaws>  who  would  otherwise  be  compelled  to 
carry  all  their  baggage  and  provisions  themselves,  but  who 
frequently  beat  and  abuse  them.  After  death,  the  dog 
forms  one  of  the  best  articles  of  ibod  for  the  Indian,  and  is 
reserved  for  great  occasions,  as  it  is,  in  their  opinion,  in- 
vested with  a  sacred  character,  which  makes  it  a  fit  offer- 
ing in  sacrifices,  and  in  feasts  to  strangers.  The  respect 
paid  to  the  bones  of  the  dog  contrasts  strongly  with  the  ill 
usage  which  the  animal  met  with  during  life. 

The  feast,  which  Wanotan  had  prepared,  seemed  to  be 
destined  rather  for  one  hundred  than  for  ten  persons; 
as  soon  as  we  had  finished  eating,  the  Indians  requested 
that  our  soldiers  might  be  allowed  to  come  and  partake  of 
it,  a  request  which  was  of  course  granted.  When  the  sol- 
diers appeared,  the  dishes  were  placed  before  th^m,  and  the 
Indians,  who  had  probably  been  fasting  all  day,  made  a 
violent  inroad  upon  the  meal,  evidently  preferring  the  dog 
to  the  bufialo  meat;  according  to  the  Indian  usage,  it  would 
have  been  proper  for  us  to  have  waited  until  they  had 
finished  their  repast,  when  probab'^-  some  speeches  would 
have  been  made ;  but  the  feast  appeare  likely  to  be  pro- 
longed to  a  late  hour ;  and  the  heat  was  &o  oppressive  in  the 


1 


•  "  Transeunt  homines  et  equi  quasi  super  clyneos  roilitares.  •  •  • 
Crates  seu  arcus  levi  ac  lato  subere,  sen  cortlce  tiliaro  contextos,  pe- 
<libu8  proprus  ac  equorum  alligant." — Olai  Magni  Gentium  Septentrin- 
iiulium  Historia  Breviarium.    Amstclodami,  1669.  L.  4.  C,  13. 


-^ 


436 


EXPEDITION   TO   THE 


lodge,  owing  to  the  season,  and  to  the  number  collected 
therein,  as  also  undoubtedly  to  the  immense  quantities  of 
hot  meat  exposed  in  the  dishes,  that  we  were  compelled  to 
apologize  to  Wanotan  for  our  sudden  departure. 

Upon  the  whole,  we  were  much  gratified  at  this  feast ;  it 
was  worthy  of  the  powerful  chief  who  gave  it;  it  wasoflfer- 
cd  with  an  open  hand  and  a  free  heart ;  it  was  served  up  with 
the  usual  ceremon>oA  and  it  included  abundance  of  their 
best  and  most  highly  prized  food. 

The  next  day  Wanotan  came  to  pay  us  a  formal  visit ; 
he  was  dressed  in  the  full  habit  of  an  Indian  chief;  we 
have  never  seen  a  more  dignified  looking  person,  or  a 
more  becoming  dress.  The  most  prominent  part  of  his  ap- 
parel was  a  splendid  cloak  or  mantle  of  buffalo  skins,  dress- 
ed  so  as  to  be  of  a  fine  white  colour ;  it  was  decorated  with 
small  tufts  of  owl's  feathers,  and  others  of  various  hues, 
probably  a  remnant  of  a  fabric,  once  in  general  use  among 
the  aborigines  of  our  territory,  and  still  worn  in  the  north- 
cast  and  north-west  parts  of  this  continent,  as  well  as  in 
the  South  Sea  Islands ;  it  is  what  was  called  by  the  first 
European  visitors  of  North  America  the  feather  mantles 
and  feather  blankets,  which  were  by  them  much  admired. 
A  splendid  necklace,  formed  of  about  sixty  claws  of  the 
grizzly  bear,  imparted  a  manly  character  to  his  whole  ap- 
pearance. His  leggings,  jacket,  and  moccassins,  were  in  the 
real  Dacota  fashion,  being  made  of  white  skins,  profusely 
decorated  with  human  hair ;  his  moccasins  were  variegated 
with  tlie  plumage  of  several  birds.  In  his  hair,  he  wore 
nine  sticks  neatly  cut  and  smoothed,  and  painted  with  ver- 
milion ;  these  designated  the  number  of  gun-shot  wounds 
which  he  hid  received,  they  were  secured  by  a  strip  of  red 
rloth ;  two  plaited  tresses  of  his  hair  were  allowed  to  hang 
forward  ;  his  face  was  tastefully  painted  with  vermilion ;  in 


SOURCE   OV  ST,   FETER's  RIVER. 


437 


hi?  hand  he  wore  a  large  fan  of  feathers  of  the  turkey ',  this 
he  frequently  used. 

We  have  never  seen  a  nobler  face,  or  a  more  impressive 
character,  than  that  of  the  Dacota  chief,  as  he  stood  that 
afternoon,  in  this  manly  and  characteristic  dress,  contem- 
plating a  dance  performed  by  the  men  of  his  own  nation. 
It  was  a  study  worthy  of  the  pencil  of  Vandyke  and  of  the 
graver  of  Berwick.  It  would  require  the  utmost  talent  of 
the  artist  to  convey  a  fair  idea  of  this  chief;  to  display  his 
manly  and  regular  features.*  strongly  stamped,  it  is  true, 
with  the  Indian  character,  but  admirably  blended  with  an 
expression  of  mildness  and  modesty ;  and  it  would  require 
no  less  talent  to  represent  the  graceful  and  unstudied  folds 
of  his  mantle.  However  difficult  the  task  of  executing 
such  a  portrait,  Mr.  Seymour  undertook  it,  and  a  plate,  en- 
graved from  his  design,  has  been  introduced  as  a  frontis- 
piece to  this  volume ;  it  will  impart,  however,  but  a  faint 
idea  of  the  f  -atures  and  dress  of  this  distinguished  chief. 

Having  requested  that  the  warriors  should  favour  us 
ivith  a  dance,  Wanotan  had  one  performed  for  us  in  the  after- 
noon ;  he  apologized  for  the  imperfection  of  the  dancers, 
the  best  being  then  absent  from  the  place.  The  dresses 
which  they  wore,  were  more  carefully  arranged  than  usual, 
and  indicated  that  some  pains  had  been  taken  for  the  occa- 
sion. Among  the  fantastic  ornaments  which  they  had  as- 
sumed, a  paper  of  pins,  opened  and  hanging  from  the  head- 
dress of  one  of  the  warriors,  was  conspicuous.  In  his  hand 
he  held  a  wand  about  ten  feet  long,  to  which  was  attached 
a  piece  of  red  cloth  of  the  same  length,  and  about  six 
inches  wide ;  one  of  the  edges  of  this  band  was  fastened  to 
the  t'ltaff;  the  other  was  furnished  with  black  and  white 
featiicrs,  closely  secured  to  it  by  their  quills,  and  forming 
a  sort  of  fringe.  This  was  one  of  the  two  insignia  or  wands 


43S 


EXPEPITION    TO    THE 


i 


i 


of  the  Association  of  the  Nanpashene ;  but  the  most  singu- 
lar dress  was  that  of  Wanotan's  son,  who,  for  the  first  time 
in  his  life,  wore  the  distinguished  national  garb,  in  which 
he  is  represented  in  the  Frontispiece  plate  to  this  volume. 
The  dresses  were  evidently  made  for  his  father,  and  too 
large  for  him,  su  that  they  gave  to  his  figure  a  stifi"  and 
clumsy  appearance,  which  strongly  reminded  us  of  the 
awkward  gait  of  those  children  who,  among  civilized  na- 
tions, are  allowed,  at  too  early  an  age,  to  assume  the  dress 
of  riper  years,  by  which  they  lose  their  infantine  grace  and 
ease.  This  is  one  of  the  many  features  in  which  we  de- 
light in  tracing  an  analogy  between  the  propensities  of  man^ 
in  his  natural  state,  and  in  his  more  refined  condition.  This 
lad  wore  a  very  large  head-dress,  consisting  of  feathers 
made  of  the  war-eagle,  and  which  in  form  was  precisely 
similar  to  that  of  the  King  of  the  Friendly  Islands,  as  re- 
presented in  Cook's  Voyages.  His  dress  was  made  of 
many  ermine  skins,  variously  disposed  upon  a  white 
leather  cloak.  The  performers  stood  in  a  ring,  each  with 
the  wing  of  a  bird  in  his  hand,  with  which  he  beat  time 
on  his  gun,  arrow,  or  some  thing  that  would  emit  a  sound. 
They  commenced  their  singing  in  a  low  tone,  gradually 
raising  it  for  a  few  minutes,  then  closing  it  suddenly  with 
a  shrill  yell ;  after  a  slight  interruption,  they  recommenced 
the  same  air,  which  they  sang  without  finy  variation  for 
near  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Major  Long  reduced  it  to 
notes,  and  an  idea  of  this  low  and  melancholy,  but  not  un- 
pleasant, air  may  be  formed  from  the  first  tune  in  Plate 
5.  This  was  accompanied  by  a  few  unmeaning  words. 
Occasionally  one  of  the  performers  would  advance  into  the 
centre  of  the  ring,  and  relate  his  warlike  adventures. 
Among  those  who  did  this  was  a  slender  and  active  war- 
rior, not  tall,  but  distinguished  by  his  very  thin  lips  and 


SOURCE  OP  ST.  Peter's  river. 


439 


ost  singu- 
first  time 
in  which 
s  volume. 
,  and  too 
stiff  and 
us  of  the 
ilized  na- 
the  dress 
grace  and 
h  we  de- 
3Sof  man^ 
ion.  This 
'  feathers 
precisely 
ds,  as  re- 
made of 

a  white 
ach  with 
leat  time 
a  sound. 
;radually 
nly  with 
imenced 
ition  for 
iced  it  to 
t  not  un- 
in  Plate 

words, 
into  the 
entures. 
ve  war- 
lips  and 


nose ;  he  was  pointed  out  to  us  as  the  man  who  had  assault- 
ed Mr.  Hess'  party  in  the  manner  which  we  have  already 
related.  Among  the  many  feats  which  tliis  warrior  enu- 
merated, he  took  care  to  omit  his  murders  of  white  men. 
The  dance  which  accompanied  this  had  nothing  particular ; 
they  frequently  laughed  aloud,  and  appeared  to  go  through 
the  exercise  with  much  spirit.  After  the  dance  had  con- 
tinued some  time,  a  few  presents  were  divided  among 
them.  Upon  receiving  them  they  hastily  ran  away,  appa- 
rently as  much  satisfied  as  we  were. 


END  OF  VOL.  I. 


